Round Oak Table with Osmo Polyx-Oil Pure

Video - March 1, 2019

My brother in law Jason and his family recently moved to Colorado. That means I have a new shop helper and he has a new house that is in need of furniture. When I saw their small round kitchen table in its new larger home, I knew we had to do something. The original top was only 36″ in diameter and actually looked oddly small for the base it sat on. So I offered to make them a new 48″ top that would also match their newly-refinished red oak floors. A quick weekend project!

Here are some of the products shown in the video.

Discussion

Michael McCleary March 1, 2019 10:01 am

What size table top did you go with? I need one similar in my own home to seat 4. Also with the pocket hole attachment were the holes widened in case there’s wood movement? Do you think the concern with wood movement is exaggerated? When I first began woodworking a used pocket holes on everything. I started off with cheap construction grade lumber and I still have those pieces from a few years ago and they look the same with no issues. I’ve since learned a lot more and now use better quality lumber from a hardwood dealer and make sure it’s dry. I use z clips and domino mortises to attach everything now but all you hear is make sure you allow it to move, never use pocket holes to attach a base to a top but I wonder if it’s an exaggerated concern.

Reply
- Marc Spagnuolo March 1, 2019 11:45 am
  
  In general, I don’t think wood movement is exaggerated. It moves. Better to allow for it than to pretend it doesn’t happen and suffer the consequences. In this case, the pocket holes were well worn and had enough play that I didn’t feel the need to do anything more to secure the top.
  
  Reply
Cecily March 2, 2019 8:30 pm

I have zero experience with woodworking, but I’ve been given a butcher block island top that I’m making into a dining table. It’s been oiled, but I’d like to make it as kid-proof as possible so I’d like to do something else to it before we eat off of it. I’ve been researching finishes and polys and oils and all the options have my head spinning! Would this Osmo stuff work for a butcher block table? I was gravitating toward waterlox because I like the look it gives the wood, but then I saw your video with the 4 wipe on finishes and I’m back to having no idea what to do.

Reply
- Marc Spagnuolo March 5, 2019 10:05 am
  
  I do think Osmo would be a good finish to use. You might want to sand the surface down to raw wood before applying it though.
  
  Reply
Rich March 3, 2019 9:06 am

Great video Marc and Jason! I really appreciated the primer on the pore-filling technique. Red oak is readily (Red-ily?) available in my area and I have been looking for a good way to make it look better when top coated. That table looks great!

Reply
Derek Aanenson September 18, 2019 4:55 pm

I may have missed it, but how long did you wait to apply the Top Oil after your last coat of Polyx-Oil? Thanks!

Reply
- Marc Spagnuolo September 18, 2019 7:30 pm
  
  The next day.
  
  Reply
  - Derek Aanenson September 18, 2019 7:36 pm
    
    Appreciate it!
    
    Reply
Raffi October 31, 2019 11:16 am

Thanks for the post. My Black Walnut table is currently sanded down to 150 grit. Do you think that’s sufficient for Osmo Polyx Oil or would you go up to 220?

Thanks.

Reply
- Marc Spagnuolo October 31, 2019 8:51 pm
  
  I believe Polyx is happier with lower grits. Usually 120-150 or so. But I can’t let my projects leave the shop at that grit so I sand to 180 and the results have been just fine.
  
  Reply
Karen Guc February 16, 2020 2:29 pm

Hey Mark: Would the Osmo finish you used on the table be good for the chairs as well? I’m working on a child’s ice cream parlor/cafe table set — replacing the table and chair tops with walnut. The set will be in a store, so it’ll get used a lot and I want to make sure I use something that’ll be up for the task. Also, do you recommend I fill the pores on the walnut? Thanks!!!

Reply
- Marc Spagnuolo February 17, 2020 8:14 pm
  
  Yeah I think it would work well on chairs. Keep in mind where these hardwax oil finishes excel is not in protection, but repairability. There are more protective finishes out there but they’re a lot more toxic to work with and aren’t as easy to repair. And I would only fill the pores if you’re going for a gloss film finish, which isn’t the case with Osmo. So only fill if you like the way it looks filled.
  
  Reply
  - Karen Guc March 3, 2020 10:26 am
    
    Thanks for the info! I appreciate it. I’m on the fence about filling — I do prefer the natural wood feel — but, why would you only fill the top? Seems to me you’d also want to fill the edge and end grain on the side??
    
    Reply
Clint October 1, 2020 1:38 pm

Currently working with 8/4 red oak (parsons coffee table) and this has been one of the most helpful/resourceful videos and content I’ve found for finishing a red oak top. Nice work.
I’d prefer a slightly darker finish. During this project did you ever consider a darker finish for your table ? If so, how would you have done it? Possibly tinting the Osmo Poly-x?

Reply
- Marc Spagnuolo October 1, 2020 4:08 pm
  
  We didn’t consider it, but if I needed to go that route I would investigate the coloring agents made by Osmo. Best to keep it in the family if possible.
  
  Reply
James P October 25, 2020 9:18 am

I was wondering, what router but did you use to cut the table top.

My collet is 1/2” and I have an 1/4” adaptor, but I can only find router bits 1/4” x 1”. I would like my table to be out of 5/4” red oak like in the video.

I’ve bought products from your videos before with great results.

Thank you for your help.

Reply
- Marc Spagnuolo October 25, 2020 9:36 am
  
  It’s just a 3/8″ spiral up-cut bit. The cutter is long enough to get through the entire top. You’ll definitely want to look into 1/2″ bits for something of this thickness. A standard 1/2″ upspiral bit is a great option, though not cheap. https://amzn.to/3mlc4ud
  
  Reply
David February 6, 2021 3:07 pm

I did a very similar project recently and I also finished with hard wax oil. I love the way that hard wax oil looks and its ease of application. However, in my own experience this finish is just not durable enough for a table that is going to take the abuse from a family of four. After a months use, my kids put a bunch of scratches and marks on the new top. In fairness, this can be remedied with another application of hard wax oil (or a quick rub with a walnut). I think that I’m going to sand the new top and apply a satin polyurethane.

Reply
Greg D February 20, 2021 7:05 pm

In the past I have made my own danish oil from polymerized tung oil, MS, and Arm R Seal, 1/3 each. I use this for my first coat on walnut, and wet sand the wood to fill the pores. Usually this requires only 1 coat, sometimes 2.
Have any of you ever tried using osmo, or any hardwax oil finish this way?

Reply
- Marc Spagnuolo February 21, 2021 8:11 am
  
  Hey Greg. I have not tried this with hardwax oils. I honestly have no idea how well that would work. I suspect it might work to some extent with Osmo because you can actually leave a decent thickness of finish and Osmo will still cure, almost like a film. Rubio probably wouldn’t recommend that since Rubio really wants you to buff all the product away so that the only finish left is what bound itself to the wood. I would definitely experiment before actually doing this on a good piece of furniture.
  
  Reply
Steve March 26, 2021 4:43 pm

Hey Marc, when using the wood filler, could you dye it to get contrasting grain colors? Also, are you able to stain the wood before applying osmo?

Reply
- Marc Spagnuolo March 27, 2021 7:53 am
  
  Yes you can dye the filler. As for staining before Osmo, I’m sure you could. But Osmo also offers colored products that you might want to look into first.
  
  Reply
Steve July 30, 2021 8:55 pm

Hey Marc, getting ready to apply osmo on my project. I know raising grain prior to finishing is mostly for water based finishes which osmo clearly isn’t. Is there any benefit of raising the grain prior to finishing with hard wax oils like osmo?

Reply
- Marc Spagnuolo July 31, 2021 9:31 am
  
  Sometimes, you can get a bit of a rough finish even after applying an oil. Plus, a grain raise and then subsequent sand is a nice way to make sure you truly got everything. So not necessary at all, but something that might improve smoothness.
  
  Reply
Larry Hill November 4, 2021 4:23 am

Going to try OSMO finish on Maple and Walnut project. Does the clear finish have a amber tone, while the natural does not?

Reply
- Marc Spagnuolo November 4, 2021 7:42 am
  
  Not really sure Larry. Most of the stuff I’ve used from Osmo doesn’t have an excessive amount of ambering in general.
  
  Reply
  - Larry Hill November 15, 2021 6:01 pm
    
    Thank You!
    
    Reply
Larry Hill November 15, 2021 6:05 pm

Ever use Target coatings? Looking to finish a project walnut legs and maple upper cabinet. Would like a hand rubbed looking finish. Best option? OSMO, water based lacquer, poly? Piece is a credenza, so it won’t get much use. Your ideas would be greatly appreciated!

Reply

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Round Oak Table with Osmo Polyx-Oil Pure

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