Uneven Floor? Build PERFECT Shop Cabinets (Easy DIY!)

Video - October 15, 2018

After nearly two years in this garage shop, one problem area kept nagging at me: the cabinet alcove. The original cabinets were tall and deep, which worked fine for long-term garage storage, but not for woodworking. I need quick access, shallow storage, and drawers that actually help instead of hiding things in the back.

So I tore everything out and rebuilt the space from the ground up.

Designing Cabinets for How You Actually Work

The new layout focuses on accessibility and flexibility. On one side, shallow trays sit behind double doors, making it easy to see and grab frequently used items. In many cases, trays are more useful than drawers because nothing gets buried. On the other side, a bank of full-extension drawers provides deeper storage without becoming a black hole. Adjustable shelves round out the system and accommodate Systainers and organizer cases stored two-deep.

The space between cabinet banks stays intentionally open, sized to fit a drill press or serve as a utility zone. While the final dimensions suit my shop, the real takeaway is the approach, not the measurements. These techniques scale easily, even when you’re building shop cabinets with an uneven floor or working in a tight space.

Leveling the Foundation

Before building cabinets, I needed a flat, level base. Concrete floors are rarely level, so each cabinet sits on a custom platform with a built-in toe kick. Using a laser, I measured the slope of the floor and built tapered platforms from 2×6 material to compensate. Once leveled and shimmed, the platforms were stabilized with OSB and construction adhesive, creating a solid but non-permanent foundation that works especially well for shop cabinets with an uneven floor.

Cabinet Construction Without Full Panels

The cabinet cases are built from 3/4-inch Baltic birch plywood. Instead of full backs and bottoms, internal cleats tie the sides together and provide mounting points for drawers and trays. This approach reduces material, keeps the cabinets lighter, and still results in a rigid, durable structure.

Dados and rabbets locate the cleats precisely, and glue-and-screw assembly keeps everything square. Once assembled, the cabinets are secured to both the platforms and the wall.

Drawers, Trays, and Slides

Drawers and sliding trays are built slightly undersized to allow for smooth operation. Simple rabbet-and-groove construction keeps things efficient, while 1/4-inch plywood bottoms float in dados sized for the actual material thickness. Full-extension, low-profile slides ensure everything pulls out completely.

Rather than measuring each slide location individually, spacer blocks index the slides consistently from bottom to top, speeding up installation and reducing mistakes. Once installed, even tight-fitting drawers loosen up quickly and glide smoothly.

Doors That Don’t Get in the Way

One cabinet uses doors instead of drawers, which introduces a common problem: hinge interference. Standard European hinges would protrude into the cabinet and collide with trays, so zero-protrusion hinges solve the issue by keeping the doors completely out of the drawer path.

The doors themselves are frame-and-panel construction with plywood panels and Domino joinery. Chamfers soften the edges, and careful hinge layout ensures clean, predictable alignment.

Tops, Finish, and Final Details

The cabinet tops are built from layered MDF cores edged with solid alder for durability. After trimming, chamfering, and filling nail holes, everything gets finished with Osmo Polyx, a durable hardwax oil that holds up well in shop conditions.

Final touches include adjustable shelving, drawer fronts with applied edging, power strips, and internal organizers that keep everything flexible as needs change.

A Shop That Works With You

This project took time, but it transformed how the shop functions day to day. Storage is easier to access, tools stay organized, and nothing feels buried or forgotten. More importantly, the shop feels intentional.

This isn’t just where work happens. It’s a place to think, build, and recharge. When the space works the way you do, everything gets better.

Hopefully, the techniques used here help you design and build cabinets that fit your own shop, whatever shape or size that might be.

Products & Links

Plain Language Disclosure: I approached Rockler for partnership on this project. They were a perfect fit since they had the hinges and slides I wanted to use as well as the fact that I already owned several of Rockler’s jigs that make cabinet-building much easier. The slides, hinges, and Lock-Align components were provided by Rockler. The jigs were items I already owned. Rockler then paid a fee that funded the production of this video. As always, I don’t let anything into my shop that I don’t want there and I never partner with companies that I don’t believe in.

Discussion

Shaun Harper October 17, 2018 9:11 pm

Hand-screw clamps have to be in the top 5 most underrated tools for the shop. No other clamp works as well to hold odd shaped pieces including curves in place standing up. When paired with an F-style clamp to clamp the Hand-screw to a bench/surface, it is a near perfect wood holding technique.
Anyone have another most underrated tool?

Reply
Bob Tipton October 19, 2018 8:09 am

Hey Marc,
Another great video with really good tips.
Thanks for all you do.
BedrockBob

Reply
Shawn Vance October 20, 2018 11:50 am

Marc,

Long time follower, first time commenter. Thanks for not quitting. :). Also thank you for your honest plain language full disclosure. Your integrity in this area sets the bar for the rest of the ww community. “Everyones gotta eat” as I’ve heard you say and you’ve found a transparent and honest way of finding that balance with paid sponsorships in your shop. Keep the great content coming sir!

Reply
- Ernest November 5, 2018 9:52 am
  
  Great video, I like the approach and now have this as a summer project. Need me time on occasion.
  
  Reply
Michael Sanchez October 21, 2018 10:23 pm

Marc,

The cabinets are gorgeous. What is the width of the rails and stiles on the cabinet doors if you don’t mind my asking. I have unfinished carcasses and I would like to match the size of yours since they came out so great.

Reply
- Marc Spagnuolo October 23, 2018 9:05 am
  
  3″ I think. You can download the plans and you’ll have all the info you need.
  
  Reply
Abraham Dunn October 30, 2018 2:22 pm

Marc,

You attached the braces with glue and nails. Would they be strong enough with only glue? (they all end up joined end grain to long (?) grain).

How strong are nails driven on the end grain side of plywood?

hank you!

Reply
- Marc Spagnuolo October 31, 2018 9:05 am
  
  Hard to say. I haven’t done enough cabinets like this to say from experience exactly how well they’ll hold up. Personally, I don’t trust glue alone in a rabbet joint. Even a simple brad nail adds some confidence and a screw is even better yet. The way I see it is that it’s not very hard to add reinforcement, so why not? Also, with regard to grain direction, plywood is a sandwich of thin veneer with alternating grain direction. So there’s really no true end grain. It’s actually a mix of end grain and side grain.
  
  Reply
Elon November 4, 2018 2:57 am

Hi Marc, I stumble upon your blog and love the content you’ve been creating. It’s high value and really educational, keep up the great work (:

Reply
Michelle November 8, 2018 4:08 am

Beautiful cabinets, my husband would love to have something like this. Thank you for sharing the plans!

Reply
Earl Hutchinson November 14, 2018 9:06 am

Thanks for an informative video, I particularly liked the tricks to get it right.
The metric Sketch-up has opened for me.
Cheers from the UK

Reply
Curtis November 18, 2018 9:08 am

Hi Mark. On the trays you used quarter inch plywood bottoms in the video but your sketchup uses 3/4. Do you have a preference between the two?

Reply
- Marc Spagnuolo November 22, 2018 8:02 am
  
  It’s a matter of what you plan to put on there. If you use them for power tools and other heavy items, go with 1/2″ or 3/4″.
  
  Reply
Tim November 25, 2018 2:29 pm

So if I were to transfer the steps to paper for creating a leveled base. the first few steps would be:

1. Use a laser guide at the height of the base.
2. Measure the distance at each corner to get the taper
3. use shims and block plane to finally get the right height on all four corners.
(when you used the block plan I assumed you were planing the bottom of base right?)

I noticed you didn’t use the laser guide for the perpendicular section of the wall. Did you already know the perpendicular section was perfectly flat?

Reply
- Marc Spagnuolo November 26, 2018 8:06 am
  
  Sounds about right. Though I planed the top of the base, not the bottom. And I’m not sure what you mean by the perpendicular section of the wall.
  
  Reply
  - Tim November 28, 2018 9:04 am
    
    the wall where the right side of the base would sit against
    
    Reply
Stump December 14, 2018 12:45 pm

Most importantly, The Kramer is now displayed in an area that is suitable!

Reply
Vern L. Collins January 17, 2019 10:29 am

I was just given a slab of Ash. Iy is 3 1/2 inches hick and 42 inches across. How long will I have to air dry it and as it is now outside, Do I keep it covered?
In the orocess of building my sled using your instructions.
Keeo up the great projects..

Reply
Kent Uhrich January 28, 2019 4:34 pm

Marc,
Really enjoyed the video. I was thinking about using hardboard tempered panels for the top. It has a slick surface and it can be replaced fairly easily if I don’t glue it down to the two 3/4 inch plywood base on the top. I would use my molding to hold it in place.
Do you have any pro/cons about using hardboard tempered panel as a work surface?

Thanks,
Kent

Reply
- Marc Spagnuolo January 28, 2019 6:43 pm
  
  Seems like a reasonable and renewable surface. I like the idea.
  
  Reply
Joey Monheit February 23, 2019 3:09 am

Hi Marc – Your projects, advise, and videos are very inspiring. Quick question: What blade guard dust collector are you using on your PM2000 in this video?

Reply
- Marc Spagnuolo February 23, 2019 9:46 am
  
  HTC Brett Guard. No longer in production.
  
  Reply
Mohamad December 22, 2019 11:58 am

would be my first project when I will build my workshop very soon, will share pictures once is done. Hopefully will do it with pocket holes for the cabinet base instead of the nudges you done. do you recommend?

Reply
- Marc Spagnuolo December 26, 2019 10:57 am
  
  Pocket holes should work just fine.
  
  Reply
david wagar January 8, 2020 6:22 pm

Hey Marc, love your work and your channel. Your teaching style is fantastic and your humor makes it so fun to watch. I learn something every time. I’m wondering if you’d be willing to give measurements for the drawers and doors you used. I know I may have to adjust for my area, but as a noob it would be helpful to get a sense of appropriate drawer heights and drawer front sizes. Thanks!

Reply
- Marc Spagnuolo January 8, 2020 7:37 pm
  
  Thanks for the kind words David. You can get all of the exact dimensions directly from the SketchUp file using the measurement tool within the Sketchup program.
  
  Reply
TimL February 4, 2020 11:56 pm

Stumbled across this (older) video today on YT. Your demeanor and style are refreshing. The tips and product demonstrations are priceless. Thank you for being a leader in this area. Thank you for helping all levels of people who are willing to learn and try new things. Good luck and carry on man.

Reply
Michael Ching March 20, 2020 11:35 pm

Man, thanks for posting your projects. As an amateur woodworker, your videos have upped my honey-do list capabilities tremendously. Thank you!

Reply
Dennis K. September 1, 2020 10:40 am

Mark,

What type of table saw guard/dust collection arm do you use in this video? Been looking at some and the one you use looks the best. Thanks!

Reply
- Marc Spagnuolo September 1, 2020 3:45 pm
  
  It’s no longer in production. It’s called the HTC Brett Guard.
  
  Reply
Bribar October 9, 2020 5:09 pm

Hi Marc

I bought your Quick High-Quality Shop Cabinets plan, but I have some parts left over, in the cut list on page 2 “(L1) LG Drawer Side” and on page 3 “(M1) LG Drawer Front/Back”, can you please tell me where these pieces are going to be used?

Thank you

Reply
- Marc Spagnuolo October 9, 2020 5:26 pm
  
  I just looked at the cut list and it appears to be correct. You need 12 smaller drawer sides and 12 smaller fronts/backs. You also need 4 larger drawer sides and 4 large fronts/backs. Can you give me some more info about why you have extra parts? Unless I’m missing something it looks like the cut list is correct.
  
  Reply
  - Bribar October 10, 2020 9:08 am
    
    Thank you for answering me.
    
    I’m referring to the parts L1 and M1. To do the drawers on page 20, I used parts L and M, also to make the Decorative Drawer front I used parts J and J1. On your video and manual, I couldn’t find where L1 and M1 are going to be installed.
    
    Thank you
    
    Reply
    - Marc Spagnuolo October 10, 2020 10:13 am
      
      L1 and M1 are the sides and fronts/backs of the large drawers. The small drawer parts are J, L and M. The large drawer parts are J1, L1, and M1.
Shaun November 25, 2020 1:05 pm

I was just looking at your product list:

32 – 22″ Accuride Low Profile Slides – link is broken
and
A lower-cost slide alternative

but i noticed that the lower-cost slide.. is actually $1 more than the same size Accuride from rockler.

Reply
- Marc Spagnuolo November 25, 2020 7:04 pm
  
  Unfortunately we can’t control how prices fluctuate. So do a little shopping around. Once you know the length of the slide, you can dig around a bit to find a slide that fits your budget.
  
  Reply
Rafael Mijares February 20, 2021 2:40 pm

Hi Mark. I really like this project, a s I do many others of yours. So I just purchased the Quick High Quality Shop Cabinets plans. I downloaded the metric version and there are some measurements that I think don’t make a lot of sense. I might be wrong. For example, both tops (large and small) are identical and square.
There are other differences that I found. I have downloaded the English version and did the conversions, and now I think I have all the right metric measurements. It appears that 8 of the lengths have significant differences.
I would like to send you what I think are the correct measurements so you can check them out and if I so, correct the plans for future buyers. So my questions is, Would you be interested in me sending a friendly file with my conversions? And how can I do this?
Thanks for sharing all you share. Greetings from Mexico City.

Reply
- Marc Spagnuolo February 21, 2021 8:08 am
  
  Hi Rafael. As you know, the metric version is a conversion and while I do proofread, I’m not perfect. So yes, please send us the corrections so we can review them and implement them. https://thewoodwhisperer.com/contact/
  Usually errors are found within the first week of publication but when it comes to metric, there just aren’t as many people using it so we don’t often hear about the mistakes when they exist.
  
  Reply
  - Rafael Mijares February 23, 2021 8:40 pm
    
    I totally understand Marc. I have sent you the metric cut list in metric measurements via the contact form.
    I hope you find this information useful.
    Best regards, Rafael.
    
    Reply
Robert Bull June 24, 2021 8:29 am

Hi Marc,
I am part way through assembling the drawers on this project – its my first of its kind so still getting used to the detail. In the materials list you refer to 4/4 hardwood for the face and side decorative trim. I don’t understand the ref ‘Approximate BF 19’ or ‘+20%’ reference. I note that you go for alder in the video but I’m at a loss as to the quantity required. Are these 4×4 lengths milled down? and if so how many and of what initial length. I would value any guidance you could offer.
Many thanks.
Robert

Reply
- Marc Spagnuolo June 24, 2021 3:11 pm
  
  When you purchase materials at a hardwood dealer, they are sold by the board foot. So that’s why we provide approximate board foot quantities. We also calculate 20% extra since there’s almost always some amount of waste. Now if you are buying pre-milled material by the linear foot, that’s something we don’t provide guidance on in the plans. Your best bet would be to see what is available for purchase, and then come back to the cut list to see how you might lay out the required parts on the size boards you have access to.
  
  Reply
Kent Kyburz October 18, 2021 6:42 am

Hi Mark. I notice the website suggests 22” drawer slides but the plan I bought says 18”. Obviously, I like the cheaper 18” slides but what are the downsides of using them over the 22”?

Reply
- Marc Spagnuolo October 18, 2021 10:16 am
  
  I think that’s a misprint in the plans. I recommend 22″ if you want full access to the drawers. 18″ will work, but the back of the drawer may live inside the case just a bit. Still functional, but not ideal.
  
  Reply
Marc Costa April 3, 2022 6:08 pm

Marc – is there anything to keep in mind if I want each of the outer sides to sit outside of the 2x platform so that they hide the platform? Other than the extra time to rip two (or more) different heights of the side panels, is there anything else you can think of? A bit of clarity – I’m using the platform method with your miter station plans. I have ~2.5″ of slope over the set of cabinets. Thanks

Reply
Eric Johnson August 3, 2022 9:59 am

Marc – Can you tell us who you chose for your RTA uppers or suggest a vendor? Thanks

Reply
- Marc Spagnuolo August 6, 2022 9:38 am
  
  Cabinotch
  
  Reply
kelly fagan September 12, 2024 12:13 pm

Hey guys , just getting around to build the large base cabinet. Im at the pont to mount the drawer slides on the carcas. In the video you show using specers. What are the two different widths of spacers, please. Are they the same width of the drawers? Thank you

Reply
zackpowell February 18, 2025 3:29 am

This video on building shop cabinets is an absolute gem for anyone looking to maximize their workspace while keeping it organized! The level of detail and expertise shared in the tutorial is impressive, and I love how practical the design is for a workshop setting. It’s inspiring to see how thoughtful planning and craftsmanship can transform a space into something both functional and professional. Thanks for sharing such valuable content—can’t wait to apply these ideas to my own shop

Reply

Cookie	Duration	Description
cookielawinfo-checbox-analytics	11 months	This cookie is set by GDPR Cookie Consent plugin. The cookie is used to store the user consent for the cookies in the category "Analytics".
cookielawinfo-checbox-functional	11 months	The cookie is set by GDPR cookie consent to record the user consent for the cookies in the category "Functional".
cookielawinfo-checbox-others	11 months	This cookie is set by GDPR Cookie Consent plugin. The cookie is used to store the user consent for the cookies in the category "Other.
cookielawinfo-checkbox-necessary	11 months	This cookie is set by GDPR Cookie Consent plugin. The cookies is used to store the user consent for the cookies in the category "Necessary".
cookielawinfo-checkbox-performance	11 months	This cookie is set by GDPR Cookie Consent plugin. The cookie is used to store the user consent for the cookies in the category "Performance".
viewed_cookie_policy	11 months	The cookie is set by the GDPR Cookie Consent plugin and is used to store whether or not user has consented to the use of cookies. It does not store any personal data.