Urea Resin Woodworking Glues

Video - April 23, 2010

This video is an accompaniment to my column in the April 2009 issue of Popular Woodworking Magazine. The article serves as a general review of common woodworking glues and when to use them. The video, however, focuses specifically on urea resin woodworking glues. These glues definitely have their advantages: low water content, gap-filling, long open time, and rigid glue lines just to name a few. But keep in mind the one big disadvantage: safety. These glues are pretty nasty and you might be best served considering other options. But with proper precautions (gloves, goggles, and respirator), this glue can be a nice addition to your shop. The two brands I use are DAP Weldwood, and Unibond 800.

Download the PDF of the article.

Discussion

Jason Martin April 23, 2010 2:03 pm

Rookie question here:
Why not just use contact cement?

Reply
- thewoodwhisperer April 23, 2010 2:56 pm
  
  You can use contact cement and many folks do. Personally, I prefer the rigid glue bond offered by other glues. Contact cement is just a little too rubbery for my taste.
  
  Reply
David G. April 23, 2010 2:47 pm

Hey Marc are there any formaldihyde free resins out there? If not are there other options for veneering?

Reply
- thewoodwhisperer April 23, 2010 2:58 pm
  
  There are a number of other options for veneers. I always found Joe Woodworker’s summary to be helpful: http://www.joewoodworker.com/veneering/glues.htm
  
  Reply
Dan Drabek April 23, 2010 3:29 pm

One of the best things about urea resin glues is that they don’t creep under pressure or heat. So, for example, if you’re laminating up a pair of water-skis, this would be the glue to use.

DD

Reply
Donnie Gaskin April 23, 2010 6:43 pm

Very good info Marc, by the way what is the slowest setting PVA glue commonly sold and what is the set time?

DG

Reply
- thewoodwhisperer April 23, 2010 7:11 pm
  
  I don’t know that its the absolute longest, but its the long I know of’ Titebond Extend. Should give 15-20 minutes open time. Here’s a stat sheet: http://www.titebond.com/Produc.....rodline=12
  
  Reply
Dan April 23, 2010 7:38 pm

Good information about the glue. You mention using a respirator, any special filters for it when using the glue or sanding? Second question, what is the shelf life of the two part liquid? Thanks for the info.

Dan

Reply
- thewoodwhisperer April 23, 2010 9:45 pm
  
  Hey Dan. I just use my standard organic respirator. Generally though, the standar particulate filter should be adequate. Its not so much fumes that we are worried about. Its the fine powder that gets airborne when stirring the mixture and sanding the dried glue.
  
  Shelf life on the resin is highly dependent on temperature. The website says 1 yr at 60F, 6 months at 75F, and 3 months at 90F.
  
  Reply
  - Vic April 25, 2010 4:06 pm
    
    Well, that’s great. I’ll have to wear sweaters, so I can extend the life of the UniBond when I finally buy some.
    
    Reply
Curious George April 25, 2010 9:31 am

Hey Marc, whats the difference between Unibond 800 and Woodweld and the West epoxy systems? I know you use the West system a lot so why would you need these other two resin glues?

Reply
- thewoodwhisperer April 25, 2010 9:59 am
  
  The main difference between Weldwood and Unibond is the water component. Now you could certainly use epoxy for similar applications, assuming you have the slow cure variety. But the primary reason NOT to use the epoxy is cost. It tends to be significantly more expensive. And when you do veneering, you wind up using a LOT of this stuff.
  
  Reply
Vic April 25, 2010 4:08 pm

Marc, in the video you state you have both and use both. Given that the DAP product has too high a moisture content for veneer, what DO you use it for?

Reply
- thewoodwhisperer April 25, 2010 4:12 pm
  
  I used to use the DAP for long glueups. The open time was real nice for that. But I don’t use it much anymore. I rely on epoxy for that anymore.
  
  Reply
  - Mark Young February 15, 2018 3:59 pm
    
    Wow, this is an OLD video I see; as pointed out by VIC, you don’t mention in the video that only used Weldwood for the long OPEN TIME, and that you’ve largely quit using the Weldwood. I’m surprised you describe it as a poor choice for VENEERING, when that is possibly it’s #1 use… the first application in some of their instructions is ‘for veneering’. I found out my local paint shop carries Unibond, so I’ll try a pint of that tomorrow. My 10 y.o. Weldwood powder no longer liquifies when mixed. What’s shelf life for Unibond 800? Thx.
    
    Reply
    - Marc Spagnuolo February 16, 2018 1:14 pm
      
      Not sure on the shelf life. You’ll have to check with the manufacturer. As for Weldwood, I realize they recommend it for veneer and I’ve used it on veneer, but I’ve also seen bad things happen as a result of the water content in the glue.
Jeremy April 26, 2010 6:29 am

Marc, I noticed you have used Titebond II for interior pieces. Is there a difference between Titebond Original and Titebond II other than water-proofing and cost?

Reply
- thewoodwhisperer April 26, 2010 8:13 am
  
  Nope, that’s pretty much the only difference. But I usually buy TB II just because I never really know when I will need something with water resistance.
  
  Reply
Adrian September 14, 2011 9:59 pm

HI I have a question?
Im trying to make composite wood bats, I first try with gorilla, but it dosent work it cracks.But here in the neiborhood are a guy who fix broken bats, he say he used a red powder resin, but dony want to give the brand can u please advise

Reply
- thewoodwhisperer September 15, 2011 9:08 am
  
  Unfortunately no. I don’t know what he means by red powder resin. But you might consider something like epoxy.
  
  Reply
Hawkeye1434 February 4, 2012 7:00 am

Hi Marc, very simple question here but I have always spread glue with my fingers, I see you use those metal brushes and I want to use them to, I know where to get them but I was curious do you throw them away everyday? That seems fairly expensive, or do you clean them and whats your method for getting them clean? thanks

Reply
- thewoodwhisperer February 4, 2012 8:57 am
  
  I just clean mine with water. In fact, during glueups I keep a small brush cleaning bowl nearby so I generally use one brush per project.
  
  Reply
Hawkeye1434 February 13, 2012 6:35 am

Sorry to carry on about something so simple but in between glue ups how or where do you store it so it doesn’t dry out? Is it submerged in water or maybe in the glue?

Reply
- thewoodwhisperer February 13, 2012 7:03 am
  
  The brush cleaning bowl is filled with water. That’s where it sits between glueups.
  
  Reply
kelly May 30, 2013 7:24 am

can you use resin to fix a delaminated hard wall on a rv?

Reply
- Marc Spagnuolo May 30, 2013 7:40 am
  
  What do you mean by resin? Epoxy? If so, epoxy will bind to just about anything, so yes.
  
  Reply
Debra Walters July 18, 2013 10:25 pm

Hi! I bought a used set of chest of drawers for my sons college apartment. Unfortunately the thing was particle board and it got wet when it was stored at his fathers house. It dried and swelled before he realized it had gotten wet. I sanded it down both inside and out to make it even with the part that didn’t get wet. Now the bottom is limber in places because of the water and sanding. I was wondering if I could take a wood trim piece (there is a wood trim piece on front already which contacts the floor) and glue that trim piece horizontally along the side of the bottom of chest and then glue a piece of wood to the inside of the piece and clamp them together with the particle board sandwiched between to give the base strength? If I can do that what would be the glue I would need for the project? I really want it to work. I had already bought paint and pulls for the chest. I have painted it and put the pulls on and it looks good. I am concerned about how that bottom will hold up though. Can you help!

Reply
Ernie July 29, 2013 7:49 am

I have read a lot about unibond 800 glue but nowhere have i seen where to buy it. I tried to search it and got lots of answers to lots of questions but none as to where to but unibond 800 glue. Can you or one of your readers here help me. Thanks, Ernie

Reply
- Marc Spagnuolo July 29, 2013 9:19 am
  
  1st, 2nd, 3rd, and 4th, Google results as follows. Also, the link to Unibond800 is listed in this post. Sorry, I’m in a snarky mood today. :)
  http://www.vacupress.com/veneerglue.htm
  http://www.highlandwoodworking.....allon.aspx
  http://www.nelsonpaint.com/urac-185.html
  http://www.veneersystems.com/i.....038;id=220
  
  Reply
Luke December 25, 2013 11:29 am

Hello Marc,
Can Unibond 800 be used with paper backed veneer?

Thanks, & Merry Christmas,

Luke

Reply
- Marc Spagnuolo December 31, 2013 6:27 am
  
  I believe you can, though I’ve never tried it myself. Can’t see why it wouldn’t work. And a belated Merry Christmas to you too.
  
  Reply
Stan Sibinski July 4, 2015 5:36 pm

Marc, One of the projects that I am making repeatedly are steam-bent laminated trout nets. I have been using TitebondIII and the Extend version. I steam form the lams days ahead of glue up so they dry thoroughly. I sweat through the glue up each time and sometimes have to prep the exotics like rosewood with acetone do to the oils in them. I had one glue joint fail and wonder if the would be a better glue for this application?
Thanks, Stan

Reply
- Marc Spagnuolo July 5, 2015 8:10 am
  
  Check out the glues mentioned here: http://www.thewoodwhisperer.co.....amination/
  
  Reply
steve August 7, 2015 12:40 pm

hi Marc
this is in reference to live 12
I saw on a tv show Craftsman’s Legacy a man making a hand plane , he used salt as a grit to stop the wide flat peaces from shifting when clamping pressure was applied.

Reply
Anthony November 24, 2015 7:50 pm

Hey Marc, thanks for the great info and hours of entertainment. One quick question for you… I can’t stop watching David Mark’s bent lamination lamp episode of Wood Works so now I’m pretty sure I have to give it a try. In the episode he uses a plastic resin glue, but are their any alternatives to it such as epoxy? I only ask because I have a basement shop up here in NY that can dip below 65 degrees at night and don’t want it to affect the glues like Unibond 800. If I need to use one of the glues like Unibond it may be the justification for me to get a small heater for the shop…

Reply
- Marc Spagnuolo November 25, 2015 9:40 am
  
  Those old Woodworks episodes are still some of the best woodworking content ever produced! I watch them all the time. As for the glue, you certainly could use epoxy. Epoxy is just pretty pricey on a larger scale but there’s no reason I know of that you can’t use it for an interior bent lamination.
  
  Reply
Rina October 13, 2020 10:15 am

Hello. Thanks for a very helpful video. Can veneer be stained using aniline dye after glueing or does this glue soak into the veneer and prevent absorption of a water-soluble dye?
Thanks again!
Rina

Reply
michael accola August 17, 2022 1:29 pm

You don’t get a good bond with contact cement. You can have issues with bubbling in the future. Also you can’t use it for bent lamination.

Reply
Tony Kaicher February 12, 2024 4:26 pm

Marc,

If you use Unibond 800 and place it on both the substrate and the veneer as you recommend, should you also use it on the veneer if it’s a stick and peel after you pulled off the paper?

Reply
- Marc Spagnuolo February 14, 2024 8:30 am
  
  If it’s a peel and stick, I don’t think you should include additional adhesive. I never used peel and stick but seems like the additional glue might do more harm than good.
  
  Reply

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Urea Resin Woodworking Glues

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