Finish for a Bathroom Vanity?

Article - November 3, 2008

This week’s question comes from Gordon who asks:

Hi Marc. I have a customer who has requested a bathroom vanity, where the sink sits in the middle. My problem is that she is requesting it be made all of wood and I am worried about a top that could be exposed to sitting water. Is there a finish you would recommend that would hold up under those conditions as well as something that might not be too hard to apply?

This is one of those cases where you have a tough decision to make. True standing water protection just can’t be done without the use of a thick film finish. Since most people don’t want their vanity top to look like bar top, you’ll have to come up with a reasonable compromise between beauty and protection. But with a thinner film comes less protection. So this is definitely a a case where you need the clients input. Arm them with information and let them make the decision, since ultimately they have to live with the results.

I would start by making a bunch of sample boards, each containing a thicker/more protective film than the previous. Try boards with 2-3 coats of wiping varnish, 3 coats of brushed varnish, 3 coats of marine/spar varnish, and then one with an epoxy coating. Let the customer see what the visual effect is when you have a thicker more protective film. Letting them own the decision take a good bit of pressure off of you.

I don’t have wood countertops in my bathroom, but if I did I would probably do the following. Seal with (Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer), then follow up with two wiped-on coats of a marine varnish such as Epifanes. This way the wood is sealed and protected fairly well, without a super thick film. But I would also be sure to wipe up ANY standing water, just to be safe.

Discussion

Dmitriy Vasilevskiy November 3, 2008 11:24 am

Dear Marc, I am just starting out to explore my woodworking skills at home. I attampt to build my own kitchen, but to make things more interesting, I want it to have a tipical modern Italian look. Would it ever be possible for you to create another one of your one of the greatest tutorial videos ( I am not sucking up, I realy mean it) in respect to kitchen cabinets building and designs.

Thank you for your time,

Your Biggest Fan
Dmitriy.

Reply
Dean November 3, 2008 12:58 pm

back in the day i have used fiberglass resin to water proof plywood. just a thought. it’s a clear finish but very tough. it can be sanded. i would try it with a top coat of polyurethane for the sheen.

Reply
Paul-Marcel ST-ONGE November 3, 2008 1:32 pm

Maybe you could use a wood that is happy in water for the top. Something like teak, ipe, rosewood, or the other oily woods. I don’t know how large the top is, but if it is large and the wood expensive, you could resaw the wood into 1/8″ veneers that get glued up on top of a plywood base. I’d even consider using exterior sheathing ply since it is hidden anyway and it is made to hold up to a reasonable amount of rain when used in house construction.

Now, as for a finish on the oily wood, that’s something to bounce back on Marc :-)

Please post your final decision… many projects from now, I want to redo the guest bathroom vanity and wanted a top of ipe.

Reply
Denis Rezendes November 3, 2008 2:21 pm

maybe he also might want to try a post cat lacquer. that would give it some good protection. or a pro grade wb poly.

Reply
Phil Dimond November 4, 2008 6:36 pm

I’ve used a two-part brush on epoxy finish, obtainable in gloss or satin. Hard as a rock when finished, and the satin removes the plastic look. Not nearly as thick as the pour-on stuff. However, cover the complete top in at least one coat (I use 2-3 coats on the tops, which I do in solid timber, no cracking issues with the epoxy at all so far).

Reply
- Sheldon March 14, 2014 4:41 am
  
  To: Phil Dimond,
  
  Could you tell me a name brand of the brush on expoxy you use, I am finishing a walnut slab table that I applied 4 coats of Livos 244 clear oil on. My goal is to have a durable matte finish that is not to thick.
  Thanks.
  
  Reply
Tim November 5, 2008 7:43 am

Gordon, I re-did our bathroom vanity about three years ago. I found an inexpensive butcher block top to use for ours. It is made of rubber wood, and finger joints were utilized to join shorter pieces. I stained it dark (to match the rest of the vanity and to hide the finger joints) and then used 4 coats of a wipe on poly. I attached it to the base using figure eights. After three years of high humidity changes, and my wife dropping and sliding her curlers, straightening irons, and other items… it’s held up quite well.

Reply
medmisfit November 5, 2008 2:50 pm

I just made a 4′ x 8′ kitchen island countertop with undermount sink out of vertical grain pine…recycled wood from an old local bowling alley. After some research, a tung oil based product called Waterlox seemed to be the best. Has a simi-gloss finish and can be rubbed with some 0000 steel wool for a matte finish. After working with it and seeing the results first hand…that it what I would recommend. No build up…soaks in and “protects the wood fibers”.

Reply
- Mark S April 21, 2010 3:00 pm
  
  Did you treat the end grain just above the rim of the sink any differently or just Waterlox?
  Thanks,
  Mark
  
  Reply
John Tasher June 21, 2009 8:20 am

Your site and posts are very interesting ! Thanks for providing such a great resource. With so many junk sites out there it’s refreshing to find one with valuable, useful information ! I’ll be back to read regularly !
Thanks,
Jeanine

Reply
Jane July 3, 2011 1:23 pm

I purchased an American Cherry butcher block for my bathroom vanity. Now I am ready to seal and finish, but looking for a recommendation of a clear coat to preserve the wood in a bathroom setting. I saw some posts, but curious about your recommendation for cherry wood.

Reply
- thewoodwhisperer July 3, 2011 1:27 pm
  
  Hey Jane. The recommendations I made in this article apply to all woods. So you still have the same decision to make in trying to balance protection with the look you are going for. You might buy a few of the recommended products to see which one you like the best.
  
  Reply
April August 28, 2011 6:48 am

Great info, a friends been working with spar on an antique oak buffet I’m turning into double vanity. I didn’t like the finish so I started striping all his hard work off last night hope to finsh today. Will test above mentioned finishes on the end not seen. I’m a period primitive collector so I prefer satin finishes and spar is far from flat, anyway I do have one question. In some areas the spar would bubble, do you know what would have caused that? Thanks for all your info, you’d be surprise at how hard it’s been to find good info on this subject, thanks again! April…antiqueloco.com

Reply
thewoodwhisperer August 28, 2011 9:02 am

Well bubbles can be from a few things. One is if the can of finish was shaken instead of being carefully stirred. Another could be from the brush or applicator. And a third could be from the wood itself. Sometimes open pored woods like oak will have air trapped in the grain. It then works its way into the finish. You can prevent this last one by filling the grain. I also like to apply light coats at first so its easier for the air bubbles to pop through the finish.

Reply
Jenn October 15, 2012 6:14 am

I sanded and applied one coat of polyeurathane to an oak dresser (we intend to use as a bathroom vanity) before a friend referred me to your site. What should be my next step?

Reply
Tiffany March 7, 2013 9:22 pm

Can you follow this process ie:
“Seal with CPES (Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer), then follow up with two wiped-on coats of a marine varnish such as Epifanes.”
with wood that has already been stained? P

Reply
- Marc Spagnuolo March 7, 2013 10:39 pm
  
  Yes. As long as the stain is cured it should be fine.
  
  Reply
  - Leahane September 5, 2021 7:59 am
    
    Marc, thank you for all this info. Very helpful!!!! I plan to use the two products you recommended. The sink is going to rest on top of the vanity. Would you caulk around the sink as well?
    
    Reply
    - Marc Spagnuolo September 5, 2021 9:07 am
      
      yes I think that’s a good idea for any sink installation.
Traci W August 19, 2013 6:09 pm

We have an old oak teachers desk that we made into a vanity in the bathroom. We installed a copper bowl sink. I want to know what the best thing to seal the sink to the wood. We had it sealed, but now it is loose.
Thank you!

Reply
Lisa September 24, 2013 7:10 am

Hi – I see similar posts, but I want to turn an old dresser into a bathroom vanity. I want to add a vessel sink on top. What exactly should I be doing to protect the dresser itself (especially the top) to prevent water damage and overall ‘kid’ damage. Are there any protective coatings that at matte. I don’t like the shiny look and I want it to still look weathered and old. Thank you.

Reply
Cindy November 7, 2013 5:44 pm

We are remodeling our bathroom, and we purchased a finished, wooden sideboard to use as a vanity with a vessel sink on top. Is there any way to waterproof the top of it without it being noticeable since it has the same finish on the entire piece? I’m afraid if I have to paint on a sealer, it will have a different sheen on top and show brush marks.

Reply
Katie February 28, 2014 8:14 am

the one product you mentioned above CPES (Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer) you had linked to Amazon. They say it is not available any other recommendation for the CPES?

Reply
- Marc Spagnuolo February 28, 2014 10:21 am
  
  Try Jamestown Distributors.
  
  Reply
  - Katie February 28, 2014 10:46 am
    
    Thank you
    
    Reply
Carol April 26, 2014 9:48 am

I have read that using tung oil on an antique cabinet will be sufficient for waterproofing for a bathroom vanity. Do you think this would work? The recommendation is to apply and let the tung oil cure for a week and reapply over several weeks. Would this work to keep the natural beauty of the cabinet?

Reply
- Marc Spagnuolo April 30, 2014 3:55 pm
  
  Hey Carol. I don’t really agree with that advice. I suppose if applied routinely over the course of a long period of time, you might have some waterproofing to speak of from tung oil, but most of us don’t have that kind of patience. Especially since you can get decent results with a simply polyurethane finish. So I would recommend going with a good quality interior varnish. You might also consider a marine varnish if you really anticipate lots of water exposure.
  
  Reply
Mary O’Brien April 30, 2014 1:38 pm

Hi,

I to am making a bath vanity out of a sideboard. Two concerns for me is protection and not taking away a gray limed wash look in the sideboard. Any ideas how to keep the gray look in the walnut finish and still protect it from the water in the bath?
Thanks.

Reply
- Marc Spagnuolo April 30, 2014 3:57 pm
  
  You might look into a water-based finish. While not my favorite for water-protection, it’s one of the few finishes that won’t add additional color and shouldn’t affect the gray color too much. General Finishes Exterior 450 might be a good solution. Be sure to test in an inconspicuous area first: http://generalfinishes.com/pro.....2F_uq1dXaM
  
  Reply
  - Colleen January 12, 2015 2:56 pm
    
    Hi
    
    I have been reading your posts, but my question is:
    If you first use CPES, wouldn’t that seal the wood as it is an epoxy, then what is purpose of wiping on marine varnish second?
    Thanks
    
    Reply
    - Marc Spagnuolo January 14, 2015 4:49 pm
      
      It does seal the wood. But sealing is only one part of the process. Building coats of protective finish is the second goal. So that’s what the marine varnish is for. You could build up your coats with epoxy but you wouldn’t want to use a thin product like CPES for that. There are other epoxy finishes intended for thick coats. But for most of us, a good marine varnish is a better and more accessible option.
Rita Di Niro December 15, 2014 8:41 am

Hi Marc. I have a 1970s dresser that I transformed into a bathroom vanity. The top is lacquered (I think). My problem is that I now have water stains on it. I would like to know what I could do to fix it and protect it from further damage.

Reply
mary roman April 9, 2015 6:44 am

Hi, how would you waterproof a painted MDF bathroom cabinet door? Any hope? thanks, mary

Reply
- Marc Spagnuolo April 9, 2015 7:04 am
  
  I don’t know about water proof, but the pain itself should provide an adequate layer of water resistance. If not, you can always coat it with a clear coat of poly.
  
  Reply
June Smith July 18, 2015 4:23 pm

I am using an antique oak dresser as a bathroom sink cabinet. If I clean it with Murphy’s Oil Soap (dresser is not in need of deeper cleaning) can CPES be used and then Epifanes Clear Varnish after? Or do I need to do something to remove whatever might be left on the dresser’s finish by Murphy’s? I need help to make this as easy as possible. Thank you so much!

Reply
Joel Smith October 1, 2015 5:27 am

We noted Jamestown Dist. no longer sells CPES, would TBPE best and acceptable substitue?
* Per web site:
Smith’s Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer (CPES) consists of a tough, flexible resin system in a solvent blend, and is used to aid in the restoration of rotted or deteriorated wood.
The epoxy resin system chemically adheres to the wood fibers and significantly strengthens them while allowing for normal expansion and contraction.

CPES is effective because it contains a special blend of solvents that penetrate deep into wood cellulose and fibers. When applied to rotten wood, Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer changes the cellulose (which the bacteria and fungi find easily digestible) into epoxy impregnated cellulose that resists fungi, while reinforcing and restoring the wood.

*** Please note: This item is currently unavailable. We are unable to provide an estimated availability date. ***

Reply
- Marc Spagnuolo October 1, 2015 10:52 am
  
  I’m not familiar with TBPE. But you can contact the maker of CPES directly and either order from them or find a vendor: http://www.smithandcompany.org/CPES/
  
  Reply
Darla H October 7, 2015 3:31 pm

You’ve indicated the CPES can be used over stain. Does it make a difference if you’ve used a gel stain? I refinished a cabinet with General Finishes Gel stain. Its a pretty heavy and clearly has created somewhat of a coat on top rather than just “soaking in”. I want to get as waterproof as possible but I’m afraid that the penetrating products won’t actually penetrate. Thoughts?

Reply
- Marc Spagnuolo October 8, 2015 7:04 am
  
  They should still penetrate to some extent. Gel stain does have poly in it but not a lot. So the only way to know is to try. I’m only theorizing that it should penetrate since I’ve never tried it myself. But having used gel stain in the past, it doesn’t completely block absorption of liquids.
  
  Reply
Dan January 11, 2016 7:08 pm

Marc – I have someone that wants to use reclaimed spruce on an accent wall in a bathroom. Can you recommend a finish, preferably not an oil based to keep the wood from yellowing. There shouldn’t be direct contact with water, most likely steam from the shower.

Thanks

Reply
- Marc Spagnuolo January 12, 2016 9:57 am
  
  Maybe something like General Finishes Exterior 450? It’s water-based and formulated for outdoor use.
  
  Reply
Becky Winger May 18, 2016 7:34 pm

What can I seal a vanity with for water proofing it? it is painted with Annie Sloan chalk paint? thank you

Reply
- Sharon May 20, 2023 11:57 am
  
  Did you ever try this. I’m about to use smith’s sealing epoxy and then Chalk paint but I’m not sure water based paint will be a good top for the penetrating epoxy.
  
  Reply
Leslie June 6, 2016 8:21 pm

Good evening Marc,
I have a tiger oak sewing table I’m attempting to turn into a vanity. I have several obstacles to over come. First and most important being the wood. I’m looking for waterproofing product to protect the wood. Not sure what is currently on the wood as a finish, but am certain it is not waterproof. I’m not concerned with a thick glossy look. What ever is necessary to preserve the look of the wood grain.

Reply
Debbie Wadkins June 24, 2016 1:53 am

I am redoing an antique oak dresser to vanity. I know you suggest epoxy to finish for waterproof. Do I need to sand off the varnish first before applying epoxy or will it adhere to the top of the varnish already on it?

Reply
Lynn Kagan June 24, 2016 12:43 pm

I am trying to remedy a zebra wood vanity that has a glass bowl sink which I am not prepared to remove. Over the the years water has created several blistered spots in the original clear coat which I sealed temporarily with nail polish. It’s time to refinish. I sanded and used water-based Varathane I had on hand. Looked OK except for the sheen which wasn’t right. I purchases semi-gloss “outdoor” water-based Varathane and brushed on three coats, sanding in between. Looks pretty good although there are some brush marks I couldn’t work fast enough to avoid. But big problem is that any standing water quickly leaves a white water mark. It does dry clear again. Will this cure over time and be more resistant or must I redo with oil-based clear coat? If so must I remove or just thoroughly sand the existing?

Reply
Melissa Kemmerly December 17, 2019 10:36 am

Dear Marc,
We are repairing a painted wood vanity with inset sink that already has water damage. We sanded the old paint and damaged (rotted) wood around sink lip and primed the entire counter surface. Is it too late to use epoxy sealer over the primer? Would several coats of water-based polyurethane (over 2 coats of paint) be enough? Or should we also use marine coating on top of that? How long to cure each coat? (We can’t easily remove sink from bathroom so not sure about using VOCs/oil-based products indoors.) Thank you!

Reply
Alison May 17, 2020 8:16 pm

Great site. Thanks for all this info. Anything specific to use on a poplar bathroom countertop to seal? Using the raw wood with no stain. Thank you!

Reply
Nick January 1, 2021 2:44 pm

Great site. Very informative! I just completed a cherry wood bathroom vanity by coating with two coats minwax tung oil. How protective is this? Should I consider adding more layers or a layer of something else to further protect it from scratches or staining if we get water on it. I’ll do my best to keep it wiped down but want to be proactive… thanks.

Reply
- Marc Spagnuolo January 1, 2021 3:55 pm
  
  Minwax Tung Oil does contain varnish so if you want more protection, you can continue to add additional coats. It’s tough to say just how much protection you need though. You might just use it as is for a while and apply more finish later if it becomes necessary.
  
  Reply
  - Austin Reed March 13, 2021 7:44 am
    
    Dear Mark,
    
    You’ve endured a decade plus of answering the exact same questions about some wood vanity that needs protection. Impressive!
    
    Respectfully,
    
    Frank “The Tank” Smith
    CEO, I Can Read LLC
    
    Reply
    - Marc Spagnuolo March 13, 2021 8:42 am
      
      haha I do miss some of the questions but I try to grab them when I can. :)
Candy May 29, 2021 8:28 am

Hello Marc, I am looking for ideas on touching up some spots on a live edge bathroom countertop. I was told that it had a conference seal on top of it 4 coats. But it has 3 little 1 1/2 inch wide by 1/2 inch high spots that are raw(no sealer on them). Is there something I can seal them with without damaging the original sealer, but yet hold the new sealer. I really do not want to sand the whole thing down as it could damage the raw edge. These spots are right in front by the sink area. Thanks for any help.

Reply
Mercy July 22, 2021 7:28 pm

We are doing a hickory vanity and tower hickory ply for shell and hickory hardwood for the doors and drawers. I used pre catalyze lacquer duracoat but after 3 COats and sanding I don’t thunk it’s enough. What do you recommend to go over that. It’s going in a bathroom.

Reply
Olga Kurganova September 12, 2021 4:16 pm

Yes, it is amazing and hard to believe that thread started 13 years ago!

I am wondering if I need to protect new unfinished solid wood teak vanity and if yes what to use to preserve the light natural colour? As I understand even transparent finishes add color or /and gloss and make the grain more pronounced? I do like the natural light color of the teak wood too much and can not decide on finish even after reading all info above. Please help.

Reply
Katie Krasinski February 22, 2022 3:57 pm

I have a carved head board/ footboard that I want to use as headers in my bath surround. It also has a matching dresser I want to convert to a double vanity. It has a marble top. My main concern is the beautiful veneers. This is a large master bath that only adults use and I have windows that open and a good exhaust fan. Do you think this process will protect the veneers? It’s over a hundred years old and in mint condition. It will look fantastic in my Victorian and give it some character from that period but I don’t want to do this if it isn’t possible to protect the veneers.

Reply
Andrew Doxsey March 20, 2024 7:55 am

Hi Marc, I notice that this post is 16 years old. Would you still recommend the same method to protect natural wood in a bathroom.

Reply
- Marc Spagnuolo March 20, 2024 8:31 am
  
  Sure. Anything that worked 16 years ago is still likely to work today.
  
  Reply
John S September 3, 2024 9:42 am

Hi Marc, Any recommendations for a Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer? The link you posted 16 years ago is dead. I found the Total Boat CPES but says it is for rot repair and restoration.
https://a.co/d/4RvaqBu

Reply
- Marc Spagnuolo September 4, 2024 8:00 am
  
  That’s basically Total Boat’s version of the same product. https://amzn.to/3yVqrS9
  
  CPES was also intended for rot and restoration.
  
  Reply
Wendy W December 5, 2024 10:32 am

Hi Marc, we have a live edge board we’re using for a rustic basement bathroom. We’re putting a vessel sink on it and need advice on sealing it. Can we stain it prior to sealing and what type of stain would you recommend along with a durable waterproof sealer? Thanks as this is our first attempt at working with this.

Reply

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Finish for a Bathroom Vanity?

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