12 Shop Layout Tips

Article - January 16, 2014

I consider it part of my job to answer emails from my fellow woodworkers. Guild members or not, everyone receives a response. Occasionally, I get a question that requires a very detailed answer and that answer in and of itself would make for a decent blog post. That happened this morning when a Guild member asked me for advice on shop layout. I brainstormed some basic tips that I think apply to nearly all wood shops (at least the ones that incorporate some power tools). Of course, shop layout is something that evolves over time and really comes down to one’s personal preferences and tool choice. But here are some simple rules of thumb that came to mind; some more obvious than others. If you have some tips to add, please do so in the comments!

1. Think About Your Workflow

Consider the path a piece of wood takes from the moment it enters your shop. This will help guide you through nearly ALL of your shop layout decisions in the future.

2. Group Tools Sensibly

Tools that perform similar functions or are typically used in succession should be located near one another. One of the most obvious groupings is the jointer/planer/table saw triad. During the milling process, these three tools will be used repeatedly so it’s a good idea to limit the distance between them.

3. Store Tools Near the Workbench

I like to keep my tools very close to the workbench, since that’s the place I will most likely use them. This includes both hand and power tools.

4. Put Your Bench Near a Window

Natural light not only makes it easy to see what you’re working on, it makes for a more pleasant working environment. Your workbench is the place you will likely spend most of your time so why not have it located in a spot that gives you a nice view out the window.

5. Store Wood Near the Entrance

Personally, I think it sucks to have to lug massive pieces of rough lumber and 4′ x 8′ plywood sheets all the way across a shop. Much respect to basement dwellers who have little choice in the matter. But for those with garage shops, you should think about storing your sheetgoods and solid stock near an entrance. This way when you come home from the lumber dealer, you can back up your vehicle and quickly load the stock into the shop.

6. Put the Miter Saw Near the Lumber Rack

Many folks rely on the miter saw for cutting down rough stock, so it’s a good idea to limit the distance between these two things. If you’re a Festool MFT owner, it’s a good idea to do the same. My plywood rack is located right next to my MFT.

7. Locate the Assembly Table Centrally

During nearly all stages of a project, the assembly table is used for holding various parts and pieces. It makes sense then to have the assembly space located somewhere near the center of the shop. This way, your project parts are never more than a few steps away.

8. Keep the Clamps Near the Assembly Table

Since most of your assembly will be done on the assembly table, it just makes sense to have your clamps nearby. If you’re short on wall space, try a rolling clamp cart! If you use your workbench for assembly, keep your clamps near the workbench. Check out these two helpful articles for clamp racks: A Simple Utilitarian Clamp Rack and A Parallel Clamp Rack.

9. Locate The Table Saw Centrally

Much like the assembly table, nearly every project in my shop makes extensive use of the table saw. And like it or not, my outfeed table becomes a second storage area for project parts and cut-offs. So I like to have mine located in the middle of the shop for the same reasons as the assembly table. Additionally, it’s nice to have ample space around the tablesaw for those larger workpieces. Unless it’s absolutely necessary, I’m not a fan of storing the table saw against a wall.

10. Finish Near a Window

If you have a dedicated spot for preparing, mixing, and applying finishes, try to locate it near a window. Often times we’re dealing with toxic chemicals and it’s nice to have an open window nearby for ventilation. You’ll have the added bonus of natural light to help with color matching and close inspection of your work.

11. Put the Right Tools Against the Wall

Some tools work better against the wall than others. Bandsaws, router tables, drill presses, mortisers, and stationary sanders are all good candidates for placement against a wall. If you keep these tools next to each other, however, you may need to occasionally pull them away from the wall for full access. That brings us to our next tip.

12. Stay Mobile

No matter how much you plan ahead, it’s almost inevitable that you’ll need to move your tools around, even if only temporarily for a particular operation. So the more mobile bases you incorporate, the better. In my opinion, this is the key element to a successful small shop.

Discussion

Al January 16, 2014 12:30 pm

Hopefully will be setting up a small shop soon, definitely will be taking these tips into consideration for set up…thanks Marc!

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JamieM January 16, 2014 12:35 pm

Great article as usual, Marc. What is it that you’ve installed on the ceiling near the light fixture?

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- Josh January 16, 2014 1:31 pm
  
  Jamie – If you’re referring to the orange ball, it’s a motorized “smart” cord reel:
  http://roboreel.com/
  
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  - JamieM January 16, 2014 3:14 pm
    
    I was referring to the white honeycomb rectangles, not the robowheel or blast gates! ;)
    
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    - Marc Spagnuolo January 16, 2014 5:33 pm
      
      Sound dampening panels.
- Marc Spagnuolo January 16, 2014 2:15 pm
  
  Yup, what Josh said.
  
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  - Ryan January 20, 2014 1:26 pm
    
    No, not wet sound! ;)
    
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Tom D. January 16, 2014 12:54 pm

Jamie,
It looks a couple of blast gates for his dust collection system.

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Billiam January 16, 2014 1:05 pm

Great, now I have to install a window or two in my garage! Great article Marc!

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- Marc Spagnuolo January 16, 2014 2:14 pm
  
  Nothing a sledge hammer won’t fix. :)
  
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  - Aaron Leeper April 16, 2014 11:23 pm
    
    Na. A chainsaw. And don’t laugh, I’ve taken out more than one interior wall with a chainsaw.
    
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Bram January 16, 2014 1:46 pm

Great post, to the point and usefull advice (as always).
The upcoming spring is “shop-rearrangement” time here, so glad to have found this post :)

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Joey January 16, 2014 3:45 pm

Excellent and timely article Marc. I have a basement shop that has no windows and have been planning to move to the other side of the basement where the windows and doors are. I can incorporate almost every tip when I make the move. Just need to get my electrical re routed and I’ll be good to go. Thanks!

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Jonathan Carroll – NY January 16, 2014 4:52 pm

As a newer woodworker, recently re-discovering wood and myself, Im always happy ro fi f items like this that are great for the noob.

Ill just add Lots and lots of light! I work in a 1 car garage and even with the door open I need more light as I like to work late at night after my kids go to bed. So my project for thiscoming weekend is to add to my 1 existing light source (a 4 ft long shop light). I intend to add lights above my bench along the whole distance!

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- Keith in Tucson January 17, 2014 12:55 pm
  
  Jonathan,
  
  I have a 3 car garage, 1-2 car bay, 1 single bay. I made some simple saddle brackets that hang on the outside of the garage door track (V shaped with the top of the V having a cleat that stabilizes the bracket against the top of the track, stove bolts hold the brackets to the track without interfering with the door). Through the bottom of the brackets are drilled holes to hold 3/4″ EMT metal conduit. This is available in 10 ft lengths which is enough to span the single bay track width. I used cotter pins to hold the conduit in the brackets. Eye bolts that slide over the conduit can then be mounted to a 2 bulb flourescent light fixture and bingo, you have lighting that works with the garage door up or down. I did this for my single bay which is where I have my tablesaw and bench/outfeed table. I centered the light at the tablesaw/outfeed table juncture and it makes for awesome lighting for both surfaces.
  
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Mark P. January 16, 2014 6:07 pm

I’ve never used a drum set to mill lumber, but I’ll give it the old college try! Thanks, Marc.

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Chuck Melton January 16, 2014 6:14 pm

I think I am going on shop reorg number three in the year that I’ve been getting acclimated to woodworking. It has helped that by turning out a few odds and ends I’ve justified being able to take over a little more of the garage.

I’d add:

1. Have a place to put your tools. It sounds like commons sense, but I spent a lot of time just shuffling around tool clutter that I could have spent doing something productive. Marc’s wall hanging tool cabinet project is an excellent place to start.

2. Seriously consider building a miter saw station as one of your first pieces of shop furniture, I’d say right after an outfeed table.

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- Chester January 17, 2014 1:17 pm
  
  Totally agree on the chop-saw station. Mine in the central character in a continuous table-line of tools that includes the drill press, the chopsaw, the chisel mortiser and the radial arm saw.
  
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Joseph Muench January 16, 2014 8:23 pm

Fantastic timing! Thanks! ;)

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Danny January 17, 2014 12:52 am

I thought work benches were overrated (ha ha). Ditto on adding windows. I operate in and out of a single car garage, but I have a double wide driveway, so all my machines are mobile. I live in Southern California. The weather is always nice in or out of my shop.

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Peter Perrello January 17, 2014 6:19 am

I checked my shop against your criteria and found a few opportunities for improvements.

I’d also add plenty of lighting, experiment with light temperature ( ex. 5k florescent bulbs) so you get a natural light that you like and setup lighting zones if your shop is large so you’re not wasting watts. If you can paint, choose a lighter wall color and a medium floor color for a more natural environment.
Thanks Marc!

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David January 17, 2014 6:54 am

I have found that drawing everything to scale on grid paper is most helpful. That is what I am doing in preparation for my new shop. I will, however need to share that space from time to time with my wife’s hobby (hatching and raising chickens). Just a few in the spring till they get big enough to go outside. I am planning on a 26″ x 40″ building with infloor hydronic heat. Others have mentioned that you can’t have too much light, and I intend to use the 200 watt cfl’s to accomplish this, along with task lighting at each machine. Walls and ceiling will be painted white to reflect as much of that light as I can. I want to use the same type of floor treatment that Marc has used in his new shop. Marc, is it really expensive to do that? Or if a guy has never done that would it be better to hire out that job? Lumber storage I have not decided yet. I am fortunate that I am able to fell trees on our farm and have them cut up so I can stack and dry them. We have white oak, red oak, maple, cherry and pine. Although drying/storage will be in another building will still have to tote my boards around some.

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John Fitz January 17, 2014 7:28 am

These are all good tips, and apply to pretty much every shop. Like all things woodworking they need to be tweaked so that it’s right for the individual. For instance, I have a basement shop that’s not tiny but it is still space constrained, so worrying about the optimal layout for my ts/jointer/planer is a little off the mark since I don’t have to walk very far; instead, I want to be sure that related tools can be used *at the same time*. Having to move the planer out of the away so that I can use my TS is crazy if it can be avoided. However, interference between my drill press and my planer is less of an issue because they usually don’t get used at the same phase of a project.

Lighting is another issue I have to deal with – I’d love more windows but being in a basement sort of limits that. Also, being a hobbyist, most of my work is done at night. But the main point about the importance of lighting still applies.

Lumber storage is spot on, I think especially for a basement shop – I used to store my lumber at the furthest point from the outside door, and it wasn’t until I moved it closest to the door that I realized how much of a difference it could make. And sheet goods are starting to be stored and broken down in the garage more so I don’t have to fight them into the basement.

A break-down station near the lumber rack is a good idea but I like my CMS to be part of my normal working area; so I’ve been leaving my jigsaw near my lumber storage. I picked this up from Marc – sometimes breaking down rough lumber with a jigsaw can be safer than doing it with a CMS. Same solution, just with a different tool.

It’s always great to see what concerns other woodworkers address when they go through shop layout.

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Mark January 17, 2014 7:36 am

Timely article indeed. I’ve been playing with the shop layout tool on Grizzly’s website (http://www.grizzly.com/workshopplanner) which helps you see how tools fit in a specific shop size. However, your insight and experience really helps with ergonomic considerations. When I first built my shop, the first thing I did was installing a wall mounted work bench – as my fore fathers had all done – Big Mistake! Soon-to-be project: ripping it out and building a mobile work bench on wheels (like the one you have pictured).

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Brian Benham January 17, 2014 12:26 pm

perfect timing on this article. I’m right in the middle of moving my shop from Oregon to Colorado, and have the opportunity to arrange my shop from scratch.
Thanks Marc.

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Kev January 17, 2014 12:29 pm

I’m starting to unclutter my work area. How do you like the roller cabinets from Sam’s Club? Any quality issues? Thanks.

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- Marc Spagnuolo January 17, 2014 3:41 pm
  
  They are decent. Though I really do prefer wood cabinets over metal. Someday I’m sure I’ll sell the unit when I finally have time to build the cabinets in that area.
  
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Chester January 17, 2014 1:05 pm

I agree with all of these tips in a larger shop. In a smaller shop (mine is just under 400-square feet) most things are fairly close together anyway. One of my original principals for shop layout was … how is a machining process performed on a piece of wood? Is the wood stationary while it is machined … or does the wood move through the machine? If the wood is stationary, I have tried to have this set for one side wall of the shop. To be specific, I have four machines in one line with a continuous table to support long pieces that might need cutting from one or all of those machines. The machines in that line are (from left to right) the drill press, the powered miter saw, the square-chisel mortiser and the radial arm saw.

And for machining where the wood moves through the machine, I have those tools either in the middle open area of the shop or on wheels so that they can be brought to the middle as needed. These tools include, the powered drum sander, the band saw, back-to-back table saws, the jointer and the planer.

No shop layout is perfect and with smaller shops, we are even less-perfect. But this system has and continues to serve me very well in my somewhat limited space.

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Tony January 17, 2014 1:10 pm

Hey Marc

Great info I’m in shop build right now finally after going through the tool purchasing period as I was tired of not having the correct tool for the job I wanted to start. Should be up and organized in a month or so In between baby duties. Wondered if you’d be interested in seeing the finished product and maybe offer some thoughts on how it’s setup it’s always good to have another pair of eyes to spot any problems.

Tony

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Ken Cooper January 17, 2014 1:19 pm

If only I had a wife that would keep my shop that clean!!

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- Jay January 17, 2014 2:23 pm
  
  That comment explains why you don’t have a wife!
  Womanwoodworker.
  
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Stephen January 17, 2014 2:27 pm

Great suggestions for a large workshop where there is floor space… the shop I wish I had!!! My shop is a one car garage 23 X 13, which poses a real problem when it comes to workflow and tool positioning. I use your philosophy in reverse Marc; meaning, all my tools are on casters and I store my tools at one end of the shop in an order that allows me to bring the right tool or two into the centre of the shop to use. Bring the tool to the wood.

It has made me really think about doing things in an order which optimizes the switching around of machinery. One thing I did do which has really helped and that I would add to your list is SOUND PROOFING! Didn’t mean to yell there.. lol. Sound proofing has has allowed me to keep the workshop operations from bothering the rest of the family when I am in my man-room.

Cheers,

Stephen.

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John C. January 17, 2014 2:40 pm

I really appreciate the article. I am always looking for a way to improve my shop and its layout. I currently have a 34′ x 28′ garage which I park two vehicles and still have some room for a table saw, large bench and various smaller benches and cabinets. All of my large power tools are on casters so I can roll them out when I move the cars outside. Right now I am considering keeping my little truck outside permanently and set the shop up more in a fixed layout. This would make working in the shop more enjoyable and much easier to do more complex projects that I currently take on. Maybe this spring. Thanks for the advice.

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ScottV January 17, 2014 3:28 pm

Marc-

Thanks for this post.

Wow, your shop looks huge. I am working out of one half of a garage right now – which leaves me very minimal options on layout. I have a 12″ combo jointer/planer and a 14″ bandsaw, which leaves me very little room for anything other than a small set of bongos.

I just moved my workbench away from the wall, with my back to the wall so I can turn/pivot to get a tool from the toolbox or wall. Your bench is also away from the wall, but faces the wall. Does that make tool retrieval a bit tedious?

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- Marc Spagnuolo January 17, 2014 3:40 pm
  
  Yes, but I also use the bench as my home-base for filming and turning it the other way would make for a difficult filming situation. Sometimes, the podcast wins. :)
  
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roger January 17, 2014 4:18 pm

All gr8 advice Marc.

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James January 17, 2014 4:38 pm

Drums near the drum sander… well played.

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Fred January 17, 2014 4:56 pm

Great article and timely. I am moving from CA to the MO and from a garage shop to an actually shop shop. I am really looking forward to putting machines in a “somewhat” permanent location.

I however didn’t see anyone mention dust control. Something that has been occupying a bit of my thinking. What kind (two stage I imagine), Horse Power and distances of machines to the DC unit…

I am having fun with it though. I look forward to putting in better DC and ditching (or at least using less) my drag around ShopSmith DC unit.

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Alex January 17, 2014 5:57 pm

Usually ducting is well covered and one of the first things considered, however, most people initially neglect clean up when designing shops. With growth, I have a very cluttered shop that makes pulling shop vacs around frustrating especially if you’re at the wrong end of a 5m flexible hose without having to struggle with the vac (the practice of in no doubt exacerbated by those ridiculous vacuuming ads on TV). As my setup is retro fitted, it may not be pretty as it is ducted overhead, but it is productive. I have a centralised heavy duty ‘shop vac’ (rigged with a Dust Deputy) and 50mm stormwater piping radiating to selective parts (corners) of the workshop. I use 50mm water diverters to act as blast-gates to control the flow of air (I have a bank of them running down one full side of the workshop spaced about 5m apart). When I need to clean a part of the shop I plug the vac into the appropriate overhead vent, organise the diverters and attach a 5m flexible hose to the working end. I have the vac on a remote (one of those that control power points – all my dust extraction is controlled by these – after modifying any proprietary mag switches) and I can vacuum any part of my workshop without having to go and manually switch the vac on. I have bought some cheap off market flexible hoses and spread them at the extremities of the workshop. Each outlet will accept the hose. Hint – I bought a fairly low end 3D printer ($800 (Aust)) and I can print any sized coupling to accommodate all those non-standard ‘shop vac’ hoses/fittings to accept my proprietary shop vac accessories. Duct tape is now reserved for the few threaded non-standard couplings.

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- Fred January 17, 2014 9:15 pm
  
  I have been trying to come up with an excuse to buy a 3D printer. Thank you soooo much! hahaha
  
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Michael Anderson January 17, 2014 7:01 pm

Marc, would not assumptions for a Festool shop differ considerably? Far fewer big machines, and more carrying lightweight precision machines to the wood, for example. I only have a few Festool machines so far (took quite a while to get past the sticker shock), but I am beginning to see how it could change the way we work. My 400 sq ft shop is getting awfully crowded with floor-standing machines and implementing your guidelines, sound as they are, is difficult.

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- Marc Spagnuolo January 17, 2014 8:15 pm
  
  Well you can only do so much with your given space. These guidelines are just general best-practices, but that certainly doesn’t mean everyone will be able to execute them to the letter. Even I make concessions for my personal situation. And yes, there would be differences in a Festool shop. I imagine everything would simply revolve around an MFT. :)
  
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AndyMB January 19, 2014 8:23 am

Greet article Marc~! And thanks for another tour of your new shop…Magnificent~!!! Shop organization is an area I’ve always seemed to struggle with in the small shop spaces I’ve had with moving from one duty station to another….backyard shed here, single car garage there, etc. Now that I’m retired from the Army, I may be getting a dream space as we are planning on moving to another home with an unfinished basement. If all goes thru as we hope, I’ll definitely be posting a question here and there and posting a pic or two. Wish us luck~!! ;-)

My question for now, and maybe a dumb one considering who I’m asking: did you make the shutters for your windows? That’s a project I’ve been dying to tackle. If you have a video, pics, or an article on shutter construction, then it’s one that I’ve somehow missed.

BTW, Thank you for the TWW website~! It’s been a fantastic resource and inspiration to my woodworking since discovering it a few years ago. Whisper on~!! :-)

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- Marc Spagnuolo January 21, 2014 10:30 am
  
  I did not make the shutters. Those are purchased. :)
  
  And you’re very welcome. Thank YOU for your service!
  
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roger January 19, 2014 6:58 pm

Hey Marc. I’m sure you may have said it somewhere when you were building your fine shop, but, I wanted to know if that gray flooring in your shop is one of those rubber flooring deals. It looks like a small sample I just got in the mail the other day. It is rubber, but, almost feels like plastic, and looked like the same color as your floor. Thnx in advance.

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- Marc Spagnuolo January 21, 2014 10:35 am
  
  That’s actually new. I picked up some rubber flooring made from recycled tires. It’s quite durable not “plasticy.” Well, it feels like compressed tire rubber. :)
  
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John Worth January 19, 2014 9:46 pm

Great post. I’m jealous of anyone who has the option of putting things near a window. My shop doesn’t have any!

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Christina January 20, 2014 8:19 am

Looking for lighting advice. If natural light at the workbench is not an option, what do woodworkers find best – incandescent, halogen or LED?

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- Marc Spagnuolo January 21, 2014 10:38 am
  
  Hi Christina. I use fluorescent throughout my shop. Here’s a little article with some lighting recommendations: http://www.thewoodwhisperer.co.....odworkers/
  
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  - Christina January 24, 2014 9:48 am
    
    Ah – hadn’t thought of d) none of the above! Great article thank you …
    
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Steve January 20, 2014 8:38 am

Festool Systainers double as drums!!! Or just learn to play what I play best and that is air guitar.

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Eric January 20, 2014 9:34 am

Step twelve is the most important in my humble opinion.

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Rip January 20, 2014 2:03 pm

Hey Marc,

A kind’a unrelated question. I just finished building the lumber storage rack/sheet goods cart from your “racking my brain..” video. I see you went with the metal wall storage rack in your new shop (which I would love also, just can’t afford) but, I was curious why you didnt put another sheet goods cart. Previously I had the stand up sheet goods storage box like I see your current pictures but, from what little I have used the cart, I like it better than the stand up storage. Its easier to get things in and out and see what all I have. The only draw back is that I can’t store as much on the cart as I could with the box storage.

Thanks man,
Rip

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- Marc Spagnuolo January 21, 2014 10:40 am
  
  For me, a cart was good solution for that particular space. In the new shop, the vertical storage just makes more sense to me. One isn’t so much better than the other. Just a matter of preference I think.
  
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  - Rip January 21, 2014 11:24 am
    
    You sure make “keeping up with the Spagnuolo’s” tough. :) The cart fits my space pretty well. I am somewhat limited so utilizing the space under the lumber rack works well for me. I have the stand alone scrap storage bin also but the extra scrap storage on the cart is a bonus. I always seem to have srcap lumber running out of my ears. I have a hard time throwing away even a small piece of walnut or other nice (expensive) wood.
    
    Thanks…
    
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    - jHop January 31, 2014 7:56 am
      
      I kinda sorta solved that approach… Due to limited space in my shop, and the fact I had already purchased the item (and hate to waste money I’ve spent), I use the metal garbage bin as my scrap bin.
      
      (I do wrap the scraps I want to keep in plastic bags from the grocery store before leaving them in the bin. This keeps them somewhat protected from the rest of the stuff that goes in the bin. Now, I know that if it’s in a bag, it’s not garbage… and the handles go over hooks or doorknobs when it’s time to empty the bin.)
      
      Works great to keep out sawdust. Not so well for spiders.
Rick Arveaux January 21, 2014 2:27 pm

My shop consists of a 9×16 storage building, with 3 feet being used for actual storage! I have a table saw, 13″ planer, lathe, sliding mitre saw, home made router table, small compressor, 5′ 4 drawer bench with vice, table top drill press, 6″ jointer, band saw, shop vac, wall mounted hand tool storage, clamp rack, power tool storage, and no room to turn around! But I put out a few nice pieces! Recently built, a 48″ entry table from 100 yr old milled poplar, coffee table from the same re milled red oak barnwood, and a little triangle shaped corner table from the left over red oak, a 7′ x48″ bookcase from old poplar, a small wall mounted poplar book case, and am presently working on a queen sized bed with a mixture of 100 yr old oak and new kiln dried oak, with drawbored pegging using black walnut from a tree from my yard! I’ve also made several mallets that I find useful from my firewood pile using Cherry, ash, hickory and white and red oak. Building anything in 108 sq ft is a challenge, but patience determination, and decent sales will make it work! One good point is that nothing is out of reach! Except maybe the bathroom!

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Dave M January 21, 2014 7:38 pm

Good information for shop set up. So what are the panels, on the ceiling, on either side of the light tubes?

Dave

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Marcel January 24, 2014 1:22 pm

Thanks for the tips Marc. I built a 24’x30’x 12’h shop this fall, i just need to wait till the cold (-40F) checks out in may so I can get organized and set up a heating system! Looks like i’ll have a few bird houses to sell to justify all of this.

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jeff nolan January 27, 2014 10:31 pm

The #1 shop tip is that the space dictates the layout. Every structure and shop location has subtleties to it, only after you dial those in can you end up at the optimum layout, and in addition to that the kind of work you do is going to dictate how you configure your shop. Casework requires more assembly area and space around your tablesaw for sheet goods, while smaller pieces benefit from having more organization around your bench.

I have never worked with my bench up against the wall, because I like to work from all 4 sides of my bench. I do like my machines pushed up against the wall and a large open space in the middle of the shop to facilitate easier movement. I have a Minimax combination machine so by necessity my tablesaw and jointer/planer are bundled together but I would actually prefer they not be (like a Felder machine that breaks apart). I would never put my tablesaw central in my shop, always at one end with a clear entry and egress for the sliding table, space permitting. Putting a tablesaw in the middle always struck me as one thing I’d always have to walk around and/or fight the temptation to stack stuff on it.

I find that the more space I have in the open middle of my shop the more productive I am because my pathway to any machine, storage, or assembly area is a straight line.

My miter saw is not oriented with my lumber storage, mostly because my lumber storage combines sheet and board storage and I don’t want to be reaching around my miter station… I also have my miter station in a location that allows me to utilize a doorway to increase the capacity for what I am cutting… the space dictates the layout.

My hand tools are stored in a cabinet built into my bench but my shop supplies, air tools, and a plethora of “misc stuff” is in a cabinet on the other side of the shop, and my clamps are mounted on a wall adjacent to my bench, where conventional wisdom says tools should be. I just like it that way. I run my DC overhead and drop down… because my floor is on a slab. My bandsaw is mobile so I can pull it out of a semi-alcove for resawing, otherwise it stays in place for small operations (20″ bandsaws are cumbersome to move, even on leveling casters).

I appreciate shop tips like this but in my opinion they should begin and end with “find what works for you based on experimentation and go with it”.

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LCW January 29, 2014 7:48 pm

Found your site after watching a YouTube video earlier this evening, and I have no doubt I’ll be up all night reading, learning, and learning some more.

I’m helping my son (who is significantly disabled) get started with a business idea that he had — one that I’d think was brilliant even if I weren’t his Mom — brilliant enough that I’ve “retired” from my law practice and moved us from MO to GA. Having lost 99.9% of ALL of my tools in the move (even the big ticket items, nearly 30 years collection — stolen by the mover!) I am now re-investing in tools, limiting my purchases to what we must have rather than all the fun stuff I used to have. . . .(So sad).

I rented a house specifically with the workshop in mind; it has a bonus room with big windows, lots of light, easy access for big sheets of plywood, but it is only about 10 x 14 which makes for a difficult set-up.

We are primarily repurposing old armoires, so most of our work involves disassembly, stripping the finish, modifying the structure, then re-finishing. As a result, we use mostly power hand tools. I only have one stationary tool, the table saw, which for some reason wasn’t stolen.

Because of my son’s disability and my need to teach him just about everything, I have items sorted into bins with handles, labeled with the category (i.e, Sanding, Cutting, Measuring, etc). It’s over-simplified and over-organized, but necessary in our case. One thing nice about it is that we never waste time looking for something; everything has its place.

Like someone else who posted earlier, I have the center of the room open. It’s the only way to work with these huge armoires. To modify them, we lay them on their sides in every direction, and sometimes use one of those flat carts on wheels for easy maneuverability.

My biggest problem with this particular shop space is my electrical options. Electric scares me, and because 4 of the 5 outlets in the room don’t work, I’m really limited outside of running an extension from another room.

In any event, after 6 weeks of organizing, making purchases, and reorganizing, our workshop is finally “open” and in full production as of this week. So exciting!

Thanks again for your article and your website. We’ll be spending our first night together as I move on to the next article!!

Lyn

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jHop January 31, 2014 8:02 am

Ever have a moment when there is too much natural light? Or do you simply adjust the blinds/shades/louvers/ static-control-to-keep-more-dust-on-the-windows to resolve this?

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- Marc Spagnuolo February 1, 2014 9:07 am
  
  Is it possible to have too much natural light? With only three windows, certainly not in my case. :)
  
  Reply
Al Miller March 24, 2014 4:27 pm

I have a small 1-car garage workshop and many power and hand tools but too save space I
put a benchtop along one wall and mounted my router table and the oscillating sander and
my disc/belt sander on heavy drawer slides under the bench so they can be slide out of the way when not in use. Thanks for your tips I have to make some changes in my shop soon.

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Larry Crockett March 31, 2015 9:41 pm

Marc, I need some input.
How often do you use your Festool MFT – would you buy it again?
Do you use the track saw ONLY for breaking down sheet goods to size?
Do you use/ recommend the LR32 Hole Drilling Set?

I’m thinking of purchasing the OF 1400 EQ router (for guide rail DADOS/ Rabbets) AND the TS 55 REQ plunge-cut saw – mainly to get the LR32 (1400 mm)/ 55″ guide rail {its a free swap to the one with holes for drilling shelf pin/ hinge holes}.
I am also very tempted by the 10% package discount for combining the MFT/3 with the TS 55 REQ. …BUT: I already have a home-made workbench: 24″ x 62″ with 3/4″ bench dog holes in the double layer MDF top. It has a Jorgensen quick-release vise. {Copied from FWW’s “Getting started in woodworking” videos.} The only other work surface I have is a sheet of Melamine used as a router table (and is always cluttered with tools until I build some tool cabinets soon – hence the interest in LR32 & guide rail).

I already have 2 Craftsman routers, but no track/ rail for DADOS.
I also inherited an old Rockwell circular saw (hefty) w/ carbide blade that I rarely use so far – haven’t done much w/ plywood until now.

My single car garage shop is equipped with:
Festool Domino, ETS-125 sander, & CT36 vacuum.
Laguna 14/12 bandsaw (new), Steel City 8″ granite jointer (new), Craftsman table saw w/ Align-A-Rip fence & Tenryu blade, Delta 1.5 HP dust collector, Dewalt 735 -13″ planer (have new Bryd Shelix head to install) , Dewalt 10″ chop saw (non-sliding). Keller Dovetail jig, Incra iBox joint jig. and all five TWW Guild DVD’s on the way :)

Should I just make your adjustable Dado jig for now & use a Whiteside rabbeting bit set vs. buying more Festool’s? Every time I watch you use a Festool router, I want one. I’m a 47 y.o. novice hobbyist.
I greatly appreciate any advice you have about investing wisely; both money and space.

Larry C.

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Barry Boudreau October 1, 2016 8:32 pm

Great Site.

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Mark Milton @thereviewsearch October 23, 2019 10:26 pm

Hi Marc, Great write up by you. I am going to built up a woodshop. So I think I found you at the right time. I hope Your tips will be helpful to me while I am going to built up my shop.

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D. W. Palme April 5, 2020 4:50 pm

Good article despite being six years old. Should repost this Marc. Btw, where is your dust collector located? How big is your shop?

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DAVE December 15, 2020 6:32 am

GOOD TIPS FOR SETTING UP. THANK YOU. ONE QUESTION. HOW DO YOU CONTROL THE DUST FROM PLANERS, TABLE SAWS CHOP SAWS ETC?

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- Marc Spagnuolo December 15, 2020 8:21 am
  
  I use a cyclone dust collection. Using metal ducts, each machine is connected to the cyclone.
  
  Reply
Thomas December 9, 2021 12:39 am

thank you

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Joe G December 2, 2022 6:06 am

Great advise. I might add that standardizing on a single height for work bench’s, table saws, chop saws, jointers, etc. such that you can transfer materials from one machine / work surface without having to lift.

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