This article was inspired by a question from K Sanchez who writes: “What is the the difference between spar varnish and regular varnish?”
Why We Need Outdoor Formulations
Before we dig into the details, let’s talk about why we need a different varnish for outdoor applications. Any wood stored outside is going to be exposed to a wide range of temperatures and weather, as well as a good dose of damaging UV rays. These elements serve to break down the finish over time. Furthermore, changes in humidity cause the wood to expand and contract, and a standard indoor finish would simply crack and deteriorate under these conditions. Spar varnishes are typically designed to not only protect the wood, but also give it the flexibility and UV protection it needs to last for years. And the name “spar varnish” comes from the boating world, where the long wooden poles that support the sails are know as spars. So a spar varnish needs to be one that can withstand the rigorous conditions of seafaring life.
The Components
Nearly all modern varnish contains a few basic components: oil, resin, and a solvent. By modifying the types and amounts of these components, we can create a whole range of mixtures that vary in price and are specifically suited for either indoor or outdoor use. Fortunately for the inquisitive finisher, there are only so many ingredients that manufacturers have to choose from. And this makes it easier to see beyond the marketing jargon to deduce how a particular finish will behave. Here are the most common recipe ingredients:
Oils – Linseed Oil or Tung Oil
Resins – Alkyd, Phenolic, or Polyurethane
Solvents – Mineral Spirits, Naptha, or Paint Thinner
Oil to Resin Ratio
When a varnish is made, the ratio of oil to resin can have a dramatic effect on the way the varnish will behave. For instance, using a small amount of oil and a large amount of resin will produce a very hard but somewhat brittle finish. Obviously, this is not suitable for outdoor applications since we need an outdoor finish to be flexible. So what makes more sense is to create what is known as a “long-oil varnish”, that is, a formulation that contains a greater percentage of oil. The extra oil results in a softer, more flexible finish that will not crack when the wood expands and contracts.
Oil Types
The most common oil used to make varnish is linseed oil. Its lower cost makes it the most practical choice for both indoor and outdoor formulations. But many believe that tung oil is actually better for outdoor use. After all, a higher quality oil should equate to a higher quality varnish, and thus a higher price tag. As a result, many of the high-end marine varnishes will be made with tung oil instead of linseed oil.
Resin Types
Generally speaking, phenolic resins are best-suited for outdoor use. But that doesn’t mean every spar varnish is made with phenolic resins. Much like the situation with oils, the better product is also the most expensive. So you’ll find plenty of outdoor formulations using alkyd and urethane resins. A popular finish like Helmsman Spar Urethane contains urethane modified alkyd resins. A higher quality finish like Epifanes contains phenolic modified alkyd resins. There are many other brands of outdoor oil-based varnish, but the ingredients list is usually much more revealing than the words on the front of the can.
Sun Block For Wood
Most spar/marine varnishes will contain other important additives, such as UV blockers, that give the wood that extra bit of protection it needs in harsh conditions. UV light will not only damage the wood, but also the finish itself, eventually resulting in finish failure. So its a good idea to use a finish containing UV-blockers for any outdoor project.
Conclusion
Generally-speaking, my preferred outdoor varnish would be a long-oil varnish made with tung oil and at least some phenolic resins and UV inhibitors. And most times the brand I reach for is Epifanes.
If you’d like to learn a little more about how I apply varnish, check out this article: A Better Way to Apply Spar Urethane
If you want to learn more about my favorite finishing method, you should check out my DVD, A Simple Varnish Finish. My goal with the DVD was to demystify finishing by going over each and every step of the wiping varnish process. Even someone new to the world of finishing can create a show-stopping finish if they follow the methods outlined in the DVD. So check it out!
71 Responses to “Difference Between Spar Varnish and Regular Varnish?”
Thanks for the very detailed response, compacted into just a few paragraphs. Really taking the mystery out of it all.
Hi Marc,
I looked up “Epifanes” on the net and found out it’s a manufacturer’s name that makes several coating products. When you mention Epifanes which product are you referring to? I think I’ve narrowed it down to two: Epifanes Clear Varnish or Epifanes Woodfinish Gloss/Matte. (Jamestown Distributors carries both products so that didn’t help me reduce the possibilities.)
The product I use is Epifanes Clear Varnish.
I am finishing duck calls and have been told to mix the Spar Varnish with 50% mineral spirits. Why is that?
Probably just to thin it out and make it easier to work with.
Good info, Marc.
Now, when are you going to post video from your David Marks visit? :-)
haha. unfortunately, I think you are going to have to wait quite a while for that.
Well, major bummer. Since DIY stopped showing “Wood Works”, I’m really going to be missing DJ Marks.
Stopped showing Woodworks?!?!? Have they gone mad??!?!?
I like David Marks stuff as much as anything I’ve seen but Woodworks has been in reruns for how many years now. I don’t know about everybody else but I get tired of watching him build the same thing over an over. I actually took it off my to do list on my dvr and then after a year or more put it back on and it was still just reruns. I just think that he didn’t want to continue with the show and moved on to different things. Claude
Oh and Marc, Leo Laporte is doing the the Gadget station on The Daily GizWiz today on turn the table tuesday. Claude
They’ve really cut back their woodworking content over the past couple of weeks. Until recently the DVR would pick up usually 4-5 episodes of both New Yankee Workshop and Woodworks, granted they were the same episodes over and over a lot of the time, but now there’s one ep of NYW a week, no Woodworks at all. Of course you can still see “Hammered” with Jimmy and John DiResta, which is horrible. I’ve only managed to make it through two episodes before I gave up on that one. It was the beginning of the end for me when I saw one of them clamp a router upside down in a vise and use it like a table mounted router. Shudder…
One of my local PBS stations has started running The Woodsmith Shop but them, and Scott Phillips’ show (Pocket screws and Gorilla Glue! Yay!) are a poor substitute and the other PBS station is re-running Norm’s endless kitchen cabinet series right now. Bleah.
I stopped watching a long time ago because I had seen all the episodes so I totally understand. But there are lots of new woodworkers out there who haven’t seen all the episodes. And having WoodWorks on there at least gave people an opportunity to see some quality woodworking programming. From the sounds of it, there’s nothing left….. Very sad.
Good post!
A note on spar: Bob Flexner has stated several times that household spar varnishes typically have very little in the way of UV inhibitors. Manufacturers will typically just a few drops of the inhibitors to a vat of finish. And so their resistance to UV is not much better than regular varnish.
Marine varnishes, which are far more expensive, do contain considerable amounts of UV inhibitors. So if you need UV protection, you might want to head to boat shop….
Chris
As I understand it, the Epiphanes Marc recommended is in fact a marine varnish. Am I correct on this?
As for woodworking shows, I’m a relatively new woodworker and I learn something every time I watch Wood Works and New Yankee Workshop. Each show presents different styles and techniques, which I lke.
All the other DIY shows make me feel like I’m a “Master Carpenter”. ;-)
That’s correct Germain. Epifanes is a high quality marine varnish. My personal favorite for outdoor applications.
Folks,
A favorite subject since I have a boat and a home, both with brightwork and natural wood trim that gets hammered in intense sun. I re-coat it with spar varnish every 6-8 months. I seem to get a longer lasting application if I put a bit of stain in the spar varnish, as well as a bit of Penetrol. But the re-finish time comes around pretty fast.
I had a friend years ago that used what I supposed was a clear linear polyurethane wood ‘varnish’ on his boat’s brightwork, and he claimed it was a 10 year coating. I lost track of him and never have been able to find out what product he used.
I have also had people recommend Sikins (sp?) which I think is an oil, not a varnish, and might require stripping all the old finish off. Also it is used mostly on siding, and may not be a good product on brightwork that must resist abrasion and get reasonably hard within a couple of days..
Maybe we could all benefit from re-finding out what the best long-life product might be.
Great site, by the way!
Thanks,
Richard
David “retired” from PBS in 2001 so all shows are reruns.
Norm had a new series on kitchen cabinets recently that has a lot of good stuff, otherwise his shows are also reruns
but all these shows have something worthwhile for the new and not so new woodworker IMHO
Richard
I want to put finish on an old pine floor that as never had a finish on it, but would like it to be durable as far as not scratching etc. I have a formula that would consist of equal parts of boiled linseed oil,good turpentine,and gloss varnish. Would this be something you would recommend over a polyurethane?
Hi Jeanie. I am curious why this is going over a polyurethane. You said the door doesn’t have a finish on it yet. If that’s the case, I would just start applying your oil/varnish blend. Now if for some reason there is already poly on the door, the oil/varnish blend might not be the best option, because the wood is already sealed. Once that happens, the oil in your oil/varnish mix tends to stay tacky forever. So if you are coating over top of poly, I would sand the surface thoroughly to rough it up, then apply coats of the varnish/turp mix (no oil).
Thank you very much for your response. I am sorry that I did not make myself very clear. The oil varnish formula would be going on a floor that has never had a finish on it. My question is would this be better to use verses a polyurethane finish? This is a very old pine floor, and I would like a finish that would be durable to scratching etc. Thanks, Jeanie
Ahh, i see now. I also realize that I mistook “floor” and “door”, lol. My brain has been in another place this week with the website changes. Anyway.
The polyurethane would definitely be the best choice for the floor. Oil/varnish blends are nice one furniture and medium to low-wear projects. But the oil content in the mix results in a finish that is a little softer and doesn’t quite build as quickly or as thick as you would want on a floor. So without a doubt, I would recommend a full-strength polyurethane.
Hi WoodWhisperer,
My question is about coating my bay window sill. I used a recommended varathane I think it was called and after a year the plants my wife put on the sill have left a bit of a mark. I even put the plastic spill catcher under them, but I think there must have been some spillage that went unnoticed. I was going to sand it as best I could and re-apply a better product to save it from the same fate. I was going to put down a marine varnish to keep the water from damaging it again. Any recommendations?
Hey Alex. My favorite marine varnish is Epifanes. Probably a good option for your application. But keep in mind, no finish will withstand repeat exposure to moisture like that. The real solution is to protect the surface with some kind of barrier to the moisture, like a coaster on a coffee table.
I’m building a plywood boat. I’ve used epoxy and am told I need to finish it with Marine Varnish. A trip to my local West Marine shows that theirs is $35 a quart. Any less expensive ideas?
I had a cedar deck and gazebo put in 2 years ago and gave it one coat of Sikkens SDR as it was less than 2 feet high in spots. The SDR on the horizontal surfaces exposed to sun and snow turned gray and started to crack this year so I resanded and reapplied the SDR. I would like to put something stronger that would last longer than 2 years. Are there marine products available in Canada that I could use that would not be too shiny? Thank you for your help.
Not sure about Canadian availability, but here are two products I recommend:
http://www.jamestowndistributo.....CPES+Epoxy
http://www.jamestowndistributo.....ar+Varnish
In reference to the plywood boat and cedar deck. The spar varnish I’ve been using recommends at least three coats 8hrs apart for outdoor use, I would recommend at least that many for a lasting finish.
I had a new front door installed last winter, and it has an oak sill. the carpenter put 2 coats of polyeurethane on it before it was installed, but the horns were cut in place… so had no finish.
now 8 months later, the poly has worn off from water exposure on the edge…and there is a slight amount of splitting at the ends…
What’s my best course of action now…
I would probably recommend filling the cracks with epoxy, then sanding the affected area and coating with a high quality marine varnish. That should help prevent further splitting.
Can you suggest an epoxy for me…
and do i need to sand the entire threshold down to bare wood or just rough it up where the finish is not holding up…
Any epoxy from the home store will do the trick. And if you want everything to look consistent, its a good idea to sand everything consistently. If not, you could wind up with some variability between the old and new finish. But if the appearance isn’t a huge issue, you can probably get away with lightly sanding the entire area and coating it with the varnish.
I am pretty sure that the wood they used for the threshold is red oak, and I am hearing that it is not good for exterior use. Any easy way to confirm if it it red oak or white?
and if it is red oak, same suggestions, epoxy cracks, sand it and polyeurethane it… or spar varnish it…
someone also told me to use chemical stripper first, then sand, then oxalic acid to remove any discoloration…
welcome your thoughts…
thanks,
I agree that it probably is red oak. At this point, I don’t know of any easy way to determine if its red or white. And that probably won’t change what you do to treat it so its a bit of a moot point. That is unless you plan to gut it and replace it. So yes, same treatment as before.
Now a stripper isn’t a bad idea at all. But it depends on how much work you want to put into it. The best thing to do in my opinion would be a full strip and sanding. Get the entire thing down to bare wood for the best consistency. Only use oxalic acid if you have discoloration to deal with. Then repair with the epoxy, sand everything smooth again, and apply the topcoat.
G’day from Australia,
Thankyou for your website.
You mentioned the three components for a DIY spar varnish (Oil, Resin and Solvent), but did not recommend the quantities of each.
Could you please advise.
I am looking for a “recipe”.
Thanks again,
Christian
Sure thing. Its equal parts: 1/3, 1/3, 1/3
Help! Have a horse barn that I just put an addition on. I have five stalls that I stained and need to finish with urethane or varnish.The original stalls were stained with minwax cherry stain, then 2-3 coats of Helmsman semi gloss spar urethane was applied. This was done about 8 years ago. The urethane has yellowed some and faded in areas, particularly on the stall fronts at the ends of the barn that get direct sun. Have been reading about spar urethane and spar varnish and don’t know which way to go. It sounds like a good quality varnish might be a better way to go. Sounds like there are also some better products out there than the Helmsman spar urethane. Obviously, epifanes is too exspensive for such a large area. Jamestown has a product called Circa 1850 Exterior varnish marine grade at $48.45 per gallon. Would that be a good product to use? Can you recommend a product?. Also, I sanded down one of the old stall doors and restained it, it looks good but came out a little darker than before, I guess since the wood is older. Can I put a varnish over this even though a urethane was on it before? Will varnish yellow over time like the urethane? Would like to refinish the old stall fronts and seal the wood on the new stalls. Thank you for any advice you might have.
Hi Karen. Most of the projects I work with are on a smaller scale, so the products I use reflect that. I don’t really have much experience less expensive outdoor finishes that are made for covering large areas. So I can’t really comment on the Circa 1850 product. But its probably worth trying out, since if its meant for boats, it should probably work well on a stall.
I am glad to hear you sanded the doors down. Its a good idea to completely remove the old finish either by stripping or sanding, and then reapply your stain and your new finish. There should be no compatibility issues at this stage.
And just to clear up some terminology, I consider “Varnish” to be a large category of finishing, which includes polyurethane. Polyurethane is a type of resin so you could technically call it polyurethane varnish.
So yes, pretty much ANY varnish will yellow over time. Its the nature of an oil-based product.
Hello -
Southern California patio — lots of rain this year.
Bamboo bar and chairs now with black gunk ?mold?
I will strip off clear coating and clean.
Do you recommend Epifanes Clear Varnish?
It is not realistic for me to move the bar in when it rains, so far much rain. I will obtain some sort of cover in the future, yet it will be exposed to moisture from time to time.
Bottom line — need water/mold/moisture protection.
Thanks for your expertise!!
Epifanes is a good option yes. You might also consider sealing with CPES (Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer), then coating with Epifanes. Its a pretty bullet proof combination.
BIG THANKS! You’re the BEST!
Hi,
I’m installing new board and batton shutters on my house. 3 sets are 50″ by 14″ and 1 set is 66″ by 14″. I’m using 1x 4s and a 23 gauge brad nailer to assemble. I want them painted white and sealed. The 2 options of wood are pressure treated and not. I was told that the pressure treated needs at least a year to cure before paint could be applied. My conundrum is that I don’t want to hang the shutters unfinished for a year on my house. I would like to use the plain 1 x 4′s and properly seal them without yellowing.
Advice on that process using the unfinished 1 x 4′s or is there a way to paint the pressure treated shutters sooner than a year? (like 6 weeks)
thank you
Hi Mrs. M. You touched on two things I don’t know a whole lot about: pressure treated wood and paint. These are materials I just don’t work with since most of my furniture is for interior use. So I would follow the advice of the pros. From what I read, some folks recommend a long wait before painting and others say you can simply wash the board with soap, water and a scrub brush, let it dry for a few weeks, then proceed with the painting. Since most of the lumber you buy at the home center is loaded with moisture, its probably a good idea to wait a few months anyway, just to let the excess moisture dissipate.
If you decide to use regular untreated boards, I would recommend a high quality exterior primer and paint. Your water-based formulations should not yellow over time. Or at least, not as much as an oil-based paint would.
Sorry I couldn’t be more helpful.
I have a beautiful custom designed/painted bench which sits outdoors. It was coated with some type of varnish which is now yellowed and peeling. I would like to remove the varnish without hurting the custom paint scene underneath as I am no where near talented enough to redo it. Can anyone suggest the best method to accomplish this. And the best method of putting varnish or other finish as an overcoat back on it that would not yellow?
Hi Gayle. That’s going to be a very tricky endeavor. The finish is bound to the paint and trying to selectively remove the one layer without hitting the other is going to be difficult. One option would be to carefully scrape and sand the finish until you start to approach the paint layer. This is going to take time and patience. And if the surface is unlevel, you will likely sand all the way through in some areas but not in others. So you’ll have to move around a bit and selective sand certain areas to keep things even.
Now if you should be able to get all the varnish off without damaging the paint, you’re best bet is to get away from oil-based finishes all together. They all yellow over time. Instead, switch to a water-based outdoor finish like General Finishes 450. But keep in mind that water-based finishes are not the most durable for outdoor use. But if you want a finish that won’t yellow, there aren’t many other options out there.
Hello- I have some doors I need to finish. I’ve purchased two types of Spar Varnish. Cabot which is an oil and Varathane (Rustoelum Product) which is water based. I did the thresholds in the Cabot but after reading all the stuff here I’m wondering which I should used for the doors. Only one of the three doors gets hammered with hard late afternoon sun and heat. Recommendations? My compliments to your site here Its a terrific wealth of information. I’m glad google had it in the top 5 line items!!!!
Hey Travis. I’d just keep it consistent and stick with the Cabot. Generally speaking, the oil-based product will be more more durable and will look better.
I have just finished up the construction of a new home and went with 8″ D-Shaped siding in a medium oak stain. I absolutely love the look and want to be sure I preserve it, as well as the wrap-around porch posts (8″x8″ rough sawn) and railings. Would the Epifanes CV1000 do the trick for me or is there another product that would be better suited to wood siding that I have already stained?
I do think it will do the trick. But it will definitely be expensive on that much wood. But if cost isn’t an issue, I think its a great option.
Hi Mr. Whisper,
What is the acronym for the list of ingredients for a product? For example, I have used Formby’s Tung Oil Finish for years with great results, which I know is just a wiping varnish, and I was wondering how it compared to the Arm R Seal you use on your projects. Does one have more solids, or different solids, than the other?
I’m about to refinish a late 18th century mahogany table with single board sections; it is very dense and heavy mahogany. One thing I LOVE about a varnish finish (which I rub out with pumice and then rottenstone followed by wax) is that it is so durable; I love to entertain and never use a tablecloth, and as long as I pick up glasses after the last guest leaves, I never have marks on my existing table.
Watching your videos had made me wonder if the Arm R Seal or Behlen’s Rock Hard Varnish is better (i.e. more solids).
So what is the acronym for the list of materials in a product?
Thanks; love your site!
I am sure both Formby’s and Arm-R-Seal each have proprietary mixes of resins but to you and me, they are probably very similar in usage and appearance. Now Behlen’s Rock Hard is indeed a different formulation or at least different enough to notice. They do specifically boast a higher solids count making the finish more durable. Now truthfully, Arm-R-Seal has never let me down and I have never thought, “Boy I could sure use more solids!” But if I were making a bar top or some sort of surface that I know was going to take a beating, something like Behlens certainly might be worth trying.
And I couldn’t agree more with your logic about using a high quality varnish finish.
As for the acronym, that would be an MSDS. Material Safety Data Sheet.
I have built stairs and seating benches out of redwood for my outside deck. Living in Utah we have huge changes in weather from 100 degrees summer days to snow all winter. My deck faces east and is in the sun until early afternoon. I love the look of oil but want the benches to be useable and fear some ruined pants with using oil. I prefer clear finishes and wanted to know your thoughts on using Epifanes or something else you would suggest.
As long as you use a finishing oil that actually cures (most of them do), there won’t be any concern about something coming off onto clothing. The drawback though is that you’ll be applying it more often over the lifetime of the deck. Epifanes is definitely protective enough, but you need to be sure you like the look. One compromise is to only add a coat or two of Epifanes so it doesn’t build to a thick film. It won’t be as protective, but its a nice compromise.
Hello, I am interested in your advice concerning the finishing of an exterior fiberglass door. I will be using an Old Masters gel stain. I need some advice as to how to procede with a spar varnish product to provide a protective finish. I have read about your support of Epifanes and any advice concerning the use and application would be appreciated. Do I lightly sand between coats? High gloss first followed by a final semi gloss? Thinning 50/50 for each coat? I read about your rag application process as opposed to applying with a brush. Thanks for your assistance!
For folks who are fairly new to finishing and want precise control over the final thickness of finish, I recommend diluting by 50% with mineral spirits and wiping. If you already know you want a fairly thick finish, then you should consider using a brush. It will build much faster that way. But I don’t usually like a real thick film so 3-4 coats wiped on is usually a good compromise for me. And I would only sand after the second coat and every coat thereafter. Sand very lightly with 320 grit or higher just to knock down any surface nubs.
Thanks for your advice! How would you finish with regards to gloss. I’ve seen some remark that cloudiness occurs when using multiple coats of satin. I plan on using the Epifanes clear varnish which is a high gloss and I’m not sure I want such a high lustre finish. Any technique suggestions?
Well you can either build your coats with gloss and finish with a satin or semi-gloss, as you indicated, or you can abrade the gloss surface with either high grit sandpaper or steel wool to achieve a semi-gloss or satin effect. The abrasion method is quite nice because it also smooths the surface beautifully. So you might want to do a little research into “rubbing out a finish” just so you know your options. My favorite way to do it is using Festool’s Platin abrasive pads lubricated with some mineral spirits. I highly recommend doing a test board first though just to makes sure you like the way this method looks.
I just bought Amish oak/hickory rocking chairs that have been finished with a polyurethane. I will be using the chairs outside on a terrace that is not covered. What can I do to better protect these chairs from the elements?
You can always give them a few extra coats of a marine varnish if you like. Or consider using a cover to protect them from the elements.
Can the marine varnish be applied directly on top of the polyurethane or do the chairs have to be treated some way first to “rough up” the finish so the varnish adheres? If so, what is the best approach? Can you recommend a good marine varnish?
Assuming there is no wax on the surface, you can simply sand the surface lightly with 220 grit paper and then wipe away the dust with a clean rag soaked in mineral spirits. The marine varnish I recommend is the one I mentioned in this article.
I am looking for a good finish for a water wheel. This water wheel is used in a fish pond, and I am worried about the varnish being toxic to the fish. Any help you can give me would be appreciated.
Thanks.
Larry.
Hey Larry. Unfortunately, I’m not really qualified to comment on something like that. Having kept tropical fish in the past, I know how sensitive they can be so I am not prepared to even make a recommendation for a finish that would survive those conditions, while being safe for your finish.
All I want to do is put a varnish on an interior window sill that is above a kitchen sink. It gets splashed with water on occassion. I want something that will ward off the water. What should I use??? I was going to use the Minwax Helmsman Semigloss Spar Urethane.
What is your suggestion???
Hi Helen. The Conclusion section of the article shows you the produce I recommend.
we are building a teardrop trailer and would like to have a stained wood finish for the side walls (the top will be covered with aluminum). do you recommend using a marine varnish to weather proof and protect the hardwood plywood that the side walls are made from? what is the most affordable option?
thanks
Yes I do think marine varnish is a good option, but there are certainly more cost effective options. Hard to say if they will be “as good” but they should work quite well. Perhaps consider products intended for houses or decks, as these come in larger quantities at a decent price.
Hey I am building a walnut and maple tray and tested out some spar varathane since it will be out in the sun sometimes and will have sweating drinks. I dont like the yellowish color the spar varathane turns the walnut but I tries out some minwax polyurethane on the walnut and like the natural color it gave me more. My question is am I able to apply like 3 coats of polyurethane and one spar varathane (for sun/water resistance). And then rub out the finish for a satin finish. Or should I just apply all polyurethane and then some paste wax (. Will that be able to resists some sun and sweating drinks?
Thanks alot, Greg
Hi Greg. If you don’t like the color of the spar varathane, I’d say skip it all together. Even put on as a final coat, you’ll still get some of the color you don’t really like. Even regular interior polyurethane has good water resistance so I would say just stick with one simple finish and call it done. If you want to apply wax, you certainly can but it really doesn’t offer much in the way of protection.
Hey I was wondering what your favourite varnish brand is? I am looking for a finish that will give me a very clear look (non yellowing) an oil varnish, and one that will resist water fairly good. I am simply wondering what brand. (polyurethane, varathane, etc..)
Thanks, Greg
Hey Greg. Your answer is right in the article above in the Conclusion. :) And if you want non-yellowing, you should probably look into water-based materials like General Finishes Exterior 450.