Crooked Garden Gate

Video - October 11, 2017

We have a gate on the side of my house that allows access to the backyard. While not a conspicuous gate, I wanted to replace it with something more interesting to look at. The opening for the gate just happens to be out of square, thanks to a rock-faced wall that leans in. In order to make the new gate look right, I’ll have to intentionally build a crooked gate. And if I do my job correctly, no one will ever know it isn’t square.

My local lumber yard didn’t have a great selection of outdoor-friendly species so I decided on white oak. White oak is rot-resistant and dense and should work well enough for this application. There are no plans available for this build because it’s completely customized for my unique space.

I’d like to thank my buddies Matt Cremona and Andy Klein for helping me out with this project. If you want to see Matt’s stool build, click here.

Outdoor Finish

To finish the gate, I decided to use one of the most durable outdoor finishes regimens I know: CPES followed by Epifanes. I’m new to the Colorado climate so I’m anxious to see how this finish holds up.

Products Used

Discussion

Cliff DeYoung October 11, 2017 10:16 am

Mark, do you prefer the Epifanes finish over Waterlox? If yes, why?

Reply
- Marc Spagnuolo October 11, 2017 10:59 am
  
  Well, I see them as two different classifications. So I don’t often pit them against one another. I wouldn’t use Waterlox on an outdoor project. And likewise with Epifanes, I wouldn’t use it on an interior project.
  
  Reply
Josh October 11, 2017 1:51 pm

What part of Colorado are you in?

Reply
- Marc Spagnuolo October 11, 2017 2:47 pm
  
  Denver area.
  
  Reply
  - Josh Campbell October 12, 2017 8:48 am
    
    Very nice! I’m in Colorado Springs. Trying to find time to do some projects outside of my dayjob and side-gigs. Love following your work!
    
    Reply
  - David October 13, 2017 6:07 am
    
    stay away from Colfax Ave. Did my military technical training in Denver back in the late 80’s. Seedy
    
    Reply
TerryMcK October 13, 2017 5:57 am

I live in the UK and used Epiphanes over my white oak garden gate similar to yours – see my build on Woodtalk Forum – http://www.woodtalkonline.com/.....arden-gate.
It lasted for about a year before cracking. The white oak moved quite a bit in the English climate and then started to grey underneath because the Epiphanes despite being flexible had cracked – my wife said it looked terrible so I needed to do something about it. I had applied the finish using Epiphanes instructions (thin coats etc).
As the boss had spoken I took it back into the shop and stripped the Epiphanes entirely off by sanding back to the wood.
Then I used a Canadian finish called Sansin SDF. I had used this on some large entryway gates with great success. I applied 3 coats of Sansin SDF to the gate and it is awesome. Water resistant and breathable it is also waterborne. No more grey wood and it looks beautiful. It has lasted well since.

Those Canadians know a thing about extremes of weather and this finish is the only one I will use outside now when not using paint.

Reply
- Kevin Kennedy October 30, 2017 9:14 am
  
  VERY useful information, thanks for sharing.
  
  Reply
George Barry October 13, 2017 9:12 am

Beautiful gate Marc…and great video.

Reply
David October 26, 2017 12:07 pm

Hi Mark,

I was hoping to ask your opinion on the application of Epifanes. I am following the same steps with my project as in the above gate build.

24hrs ago I applied the 1st coat of Epifanes which I diluted with 50% Mineral Spirits (same one in the video), and was going to apply a second coat with a 25% dilution of MS. I reside in Northern California and it’s been around 90, however the garage temp is around 70-75.

I was about to sand lightly with a 320 grit, using my Rotex (using the orbital function), however the Epifanes 1st coat is sticky. It doesn’t seem wet, just sticky. Do you think I need to let it dry longer?

I called Epifanes and asked for their advice, and the rep said that I should have let CPES cure fully and then apply Epifanes.

Any suggestions are greatly appreciate it!

David

Reply
- Marc Spagnuolo October 26, 2017 12:32 pm
  
  Wait longer. If the Epifanes isn’t dry to the touch, you don’t want to do anything. So even if it takes a couple of days, just let it go. Applying finish on top of uncured finish is a recipe for serious problems.
  
  As for the CPES component, we often have to pick who we trust more when it comes to these things. What I showed/mentioned in this video is exactly what CPES recommends when using the product with Epifanes. It’s worked for me in the past so I continue going with that method. Waiting until the CPES is 100% cured doesn’t really take advantage of using epoxy for those first sealer coats.
  
  Reply
David October 26, 2017 1:11 pm

CPES knows their product best.lol They also suggested waiting longer. Really appreciate your input and fast reply.

David

Reply
Gene Davis July 30, 2018 2:41 pm

We moved from Denver recently, but when there, I found great hardwood supply sources (Austin, Frank Paxton, CS Woods) but no good sources for softwood items such as doug fir, western red cedar, alaskan yellow cedar, cypress, stuff like that. Kind of disappointing in a big rich market such as the Front Range.

Reply
Michael Lerner May 12, 2019 6:49 pm

An elegant solution to a difficult situation! I have a similar situation but plan on a gate that will be 48″ wide with a curving slope at the top that goes from about 48″ high at the latch side to 68″ high at the hinge side. Is it necessary to make my stiles 3 1/2″ thick, as you did, or did you do that for stylistic rather than structural reasons? I want to put entry hardware on my gate and most door hardware is for doors only up to 1.75″ thick. I live in New England (severe weather) and am hoping to make both my stiles and my rails out of sapele 1.75″thick by 5.5″wide. Would this raise any structural concerns? Thank you for your reply. I love your videos!

Reply
- Marc Spagnuolo May 13, 2019 8:29 am
  
  I honestly just use my best guess when it comes to things like this. I went with 3 1/2″ thick for mine because that’s what you get when you put two 8/4 boards together to make a post. :) So I’d say my gate is pretty much over-built. So I see no issues going thinner. Keep in mind, thicker also means heavier. So having a lighter gate will make your life easier in the long run.
  
  Reply
  - michael lerner May 13, 2019 1:39 pm
    
    Thanks so much for your quick and helpful reply! You are a godsend to amateur woodworkers like me!
    
    Reply
Michael Lerner June 12, 2019 3:45 pm

Mark,
I am almost ready to start finishing my sapele gate (see my My 12 comment above) but am having some misgivings about using CPES and (especially) Epiphanes based on some of the other comments above. Do you have any alternate recommendations? As my gate will always be in deep shade, could I just skip the varnish top coats and apply additional coats of CPES?

I’m thinking of using West System epoxy to glue up my rails and stiles but am concerned about the different coefficients of expansion between wood and epoxy tearing the joints apart over time. Have you ever found this to be a problem?

BTW, how has your gate held up after two winters and one summer? Is there anything you would do differently you were to build another gate now?

Thank you again for your reply.

Reply
Brian June 23, 2020 1:21 pm

So I just got around to this video. I see that you used the standard beech dominos. Now I know they sell sipo tenons for outdoor applications, what are your thoughts on that? Part of me says it’s just Festool cleverly getting people to buy twice as much tenon stock, that as long as I surround the thing in outdoor rated glue or epoxy, I’m good. But the other part of me is like yeah, some woods don’t do as well outside. This nagged at me, so in a recent cedar patio table, I ended up fabricating my own tenons from the cutoffs instead of using the store bought ones. Did I waste my time?

Reply
- Marc Spagnuolo June 23, 2020 7:09 pm
  
  I won’t say you wasted your time. But I can say that I’ve had no issues using beech dominos on outdoor projects. I feel the same way you do. once it’s covered in waterproof glue and hidden under an inch of wood, it should be ok.
  
  Reply
Ray April 15, 2021 6:41 pm

While I’ve viewed many Wood Whisperer projects in the past I just found this one, and am very interested. I’m in Tucson and in the process of replacing a nearly 30 year old 7′ Douglas Fir courtyard entry gate with a White Oak version. Thus started as a repair but found way too much termite damage, ugh. I’m just starting to research the best finish for this new gate.

Mark, would you still use CPES/Epifanes finish if your gate was in Arizona? How’s your gate holding up in the Colorado weather?

Reply
- Marc Spagnuolo April 16, 2021 10:08 am
  
  From what I’ve experienced, I would say yes if the piece has a good amount of shade during the day. Even a hardcore finish like CPES/Epifanes will degrade fairly quickly with lots of UV exposure. If it’s not in the shade, I’d recommend going with something that doesn’t form a thick film and can be renewed easily every year or two. My gate is doing pretty well but it does live in the shade for the majority of the day.
  
  Reply
  - Ray April 19, 2021 2:19 pm
    
    The inside of our gate faces east and is fairly well shaded by a nearby tree. However, the outside faces west and gets the afternoon sun. Looks like I need to do some more searching.
    
    Thank you for the feedback.
    
    Reply

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Crooked Garden Gate

Outdoor Finish

Products Used

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