Different Types of Lacquer

Article - June 2, 2008

This week’s question comes from Larry, who just picked up an Earlex Spray Station 5000 and has a question about using different types of lacquer:

I just purchased an Earlex Spray Station 5000 and I’m very pleased with its performance thus far. I’ve sprayed shellac, water-based dye, and Deft brushing lacquer, all with good results. I’d like to get into spraying more lacquer because it looks great and dries fast, but all the options out there are confusing to someone new to spraying, like me. Post-catalyzed, pre-catalyzed, nitrocellulose, water-borne—what are the differences, and what should I start with? Do certain types work better in different climates? Are any brands better than others? Sherwin-Williams seems to have a wide selection, and they have stores everywhere. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for your wonderful website.

First off, congrats on diving into the world of spraying! It’s a game-changer, but yeah, the options can be overwhelming. Lacquers come with enough jargon to make your head spin, and the wrong choice can turn your beautiful project into a cautionary tale.

Before we get into the nitty-gritty, I highly recommend checking out a good finishing book by Bob Flexner or Jeff Jewitt. These guys know their stuff and can give you a deeper understanding of finishes than I can in a single post. But since you asked, here’s a nutshell guide to lacquers and how they behave.

Lacquer 101: Breaking It Down

Think of lacquer as falling into three main categories:

Nitrocellulose Lacquer – The “everyday” lacquer. It’s what you’ll find at Home Depot or Lowe’s (Deft is a common brand). It’s inexpensive, easy to work with, and lays down a beautiful finish. The downside? It yellows over time, which isn’t great for light-colored woods unless you’re going for that vintage patina.
CAB-Acrylic Lacquer – This is like nitro’s cleaner, fancier cousin. It’s made with acrylic resins, so it stays “water white”—meaning it won’t yellow over time. It’s more durable than nitro and just as easy to spray. If you’re finishing light woods or just want a more stable finish, CAB-Acrylic is a solid choice.
Catalyzed Lacquers (Pre-Cat & Post-Cat) – This is where things get serious. Instead of curing just by solvent evaporation, these lacquers cure chemically—which makes them way more durable than nitro or CAB-Acrylic.
- Pre-Catalyzed – The catalyst is added at the factory, making it user-friendly.
- Post-Catalyzed – You add the catalyst in your shop, giving you more control but also a ticking clock (it has a short shelf life once mixed).
- Downside? Both types have a limited shelf life even before mixing, so check those dates before buying.

My Recommendation

If you can get your hands on it, Sherwin-Williams Pre-Cat CAB-Acrylic lacquer is a fantastic option. It’s durable, non-yellowing, and has lower toxic off-gassing compared to traditional nitro lacquers. It was relatively new when I first used it, so availability might vary—but it’s worth asking about.

That said, nitrocellulose lacquer is still a great all-purpose finish, especially if you’re just getting started and want something widely available.

Spraying Lacquer: Know Your Conditions

Lacquer is an incredible finish, but it can be a diva when it comes to temperature and humidity.

Ideal conditions: Above 70°F with low humidity.
Cold weather? Forget it. Lacquer doesn’t like to cure properly when it’s too cold.
High humidity? You risk “blushing”—where moisture gets trapped, turning your finish cloudy. (Not a good look.)

If you live somewhere humid, you may have to wait for the right season or time of day to spray, or invest in a retarder to slow drying time and reduce blushing.

Final Thoughts

Which lacquer should you use? That depends on your priorities.

Want the easiest-to-find and cheapest option? Go with nitrocellulose.
Need something clear that won’t yellow? CAB-Acrylic is your friend.
Looking for durability and pro-level performance? Pre-Cat or Post-Cat lacquer is the way to go.

Sherwin-Williams is my go-to for lacquer, but there are plenty of other great brands out there. Try a few and see what works best for your setup.

Discussion

RJ June 2, 2008 2:44 pm

Larry,
I too would suggest the Sherwin Williams products as well but I beleive you will only find their laqcuer products at an industrial coatings branch this is due to EPA regulations that most of your local stores will be unable to meet. Hopefully this should save you some running around town:)

RJ

Reply
- DanShaf February 14, 2018 5:19 pm
  
  Hi. The reason that you have to go to an Industrialized Coatings outlet has nothing to do with the EPA. It has to do with the typical Sherwin-Williams outlet is a paint & wallpaper store. For them to sell you a gallon of lacquer, for example, that paint & wallpaper outlet has to buy a 4-gallon case of it and hope that they can sell the remaining 3 gallons. If they can’t then they are stuck with it. If you want Sher-Wood items, the industrial outlets not only shelve them, they have the expertise to give you decent tech support on the uses of these products.
  
  Reply
  - Bob Boardman December 28, 2020 9:35 am
    
    Dan = Just found this site. As usual you hit the nail on the head
    
    Bob Boardman
    
    Reply
thewoodwhisperer June 2, 2008 5:13 pm

Excellent point Ron. I totally forgot to mention that! Thanks man.

Reply
Jim June 3, 2008 7:45 am

Thanks Larry and Marc that was the best “down and dirty” explanation I’ve seen. I have a question too, I thought spraying lacquer was a no-no without a booth? This due to flammable aspect of it. I ask because I’m getting ready to move to a new shop and looking hard at the Earlax sprayer as well. Aren’t you supposed to have special equipment (fans, lights, etc) to spray lacquer? Or is this another of those…well I’m supposed to use the blade guard on my table saw too…kind of questions [Grin].

Reply
Ray June 5, 2008 3:03 pm

Jim I have the same concerns that you do. I have been spraying lacquers, and other flammable paints for some time. I do have a small paint room with a exhaust fan ,but not so sure it is spark proof. I do open the door and windows while spraying but I could still be taking a chance.Iam thinking about changing to water based lacquers. Mark I am wondering if you have ever used crystalac water based. I see in MFeely’s catalog they have a samplers kit for 47bucks ,but would like to here your comments on any of the water based lacquers before I try any, and if you were satisfied with the results. I hear so many pros and con’s, it certainly has to be safer. Mark It is so refreshing to see the wood whisper, with your straight forward talk and humor. keep up the good work Mark It is well appreciated.

Reply
Todd A. Clippinger June 6, 2008 8:38 am

Hey Mark,

I just have to throw in my thoughts here on this one.

My favorite lacquers are the Sherwin Williams line of pre-cats. I shoot in various climates. At home in Montana the ambient shop humidity level runs about 20%. When I work in Ohio, out of my brother’s shop, the ambient humidity runs 65% – 85% because I often open the overhead doors.

I have heard many complaints about the blushing problem while in Ohio, but I have never had this issue. This can be resolved a couple of ways.

One solution is to use a retarder to slow the dry time and allow the moisture to escape during the dry time.

I personally do not like to alter the chemistry of my finishes more than I have to and I simply use thinner coats of finish. I may have to add an extra coat but I have never had blushing.

I have done a lot of spraying in a cool winter shop both in Ohio and Montana. I tend to keep the shop at 50 degrees at night and I turn it up to 60 or 62 if I am finishing. The dry time definitely slows down but I can still get a coat every 30 to 45 minutes without a problem.

My experience with the waterborne lacquer from Target Coatings was a money losing one. It took 1 1/2 to 2 hours to dry at 70 degrees and 20% humidity. With pre-cat solvent lacquers I can get 3 coats per hour at those conditions. I have to admit that I am attracted to trying more environmentally products. There were no harmful fumes when spraying this product, but I still wear a respirator to prevent from inhaling the atomized product.

One other issue with the waterborne lacquer is the way that it wears. It is very hard but brittle. It seems to easily show scratches with wicked white lines. I don’t care for the way that it wears on a table with objects sliding on it.

Sherwin also carries a line of waterborne lacquers and they are on my list of “must try” products. I do have faith that all of these products will be developed better in the future as the industry is turning that direction.

Reply
Yoann July 24, 2008 3:31 pm

Hello,
my question may sound stupid, but I was wondering by reading this blog what is the difference between “water-based” and “waterborne” lacquers, is it the same ?
If not, can any lacquer be either water-based or waterborne ?
Thanks for the clarification !!
Yoann

Reply
thewoodwhisperer July 24, 2008 4:15 pm

Hey Yoann. Not a stupid question at all. Its another result of the confusing marketing jargon in the finishing industry. As I understand it, water-based is pretty much a misnomer. To call something water-based suggests that you can redissolve it in water, which is not the case with these finishes. These water containing finishes are actually still solvent based, and I believe the reason folks started calling them “water-based” was to distinguish them from traditional solvent-based finishes.
So how do these finishes work? The mixture generally contains polyurethane or acrylic, a solvent (usually glycol ether), and water. After application, the water begins to evaporate. Soon after the water evaporates, the solvent begins evaporating and the finish particles fuse together to become a single layer. So even though these finishes are solvent-based, water is the carrier, hence the term, waterborne.

Reply
- Jon January 23, 2021 10:31 pm
  
  After learning the hard way by fucking up a big job i learned the importance of making sure the products are compatible. Oil based paints or primers are great but they are soft and don’t work well under lacquer finishes. More importantly when doing any glazing or using CAB acrylic be sure to use a vinyl based sealer and NOT nitrocelluloce as they will cause BIG probpems! Furthermore lacquer is great because it drys and cures very fast which makes it ideal for handling but it is also very brittle and fragile. Oil is much more durable and wears better.
  
  Reply
Craig Smelser September 28, 2009 10:04 pm

Mark – assuming I spray lacquer as suggested here – how often should I be cleaning my gun to prevent clogging?

BTW – great podcasts!

Craig

Reply
- thewoodwhisperer September 29, 2009 8:34 am
  
  Hey Craig. I used to work in a refinishing shop where we’d leave the pots and guns loaded for days. Usually there would be a little cap of finish that would dry over the tip, which you can knock off with your fingernail. Anything that started to dry would generally redissolve as soon as the lacquer thinner hit it.
  
  But for the home shop, I would probably not leave it for more than 24 hrs. So if you are doing like a big three day finishing fest, I would not clean the gun every night. But then again, I’m a little lazy in that area, lol.
  
  Reply
jack February 21, 2010 12:13 am

Hello all,
I’m a bit of a wood working novice and not too sure about getting into spraying. Can you use these with a brush by chance and how much of a difference of quality is there going to be with brush versus spray? Thanks and awesome site!

Reply
- thewoodwhisperer February 21, 2010 12:20 am
  
  Hey Jack. There are brushing lacquers out there. In fact Deft, found at Home Depot and Lowes, is specifically labeled as a brushing lacquer, although you can obviously spray it. I would simply suggest buying a small can and trying it out on scrap. See if you like the results. And get yourself some lacquer thinner so you can clean off that brush between practice runs.
  
  Reply
  - Claire May 18, 2020 4:25 pm
    
    Can SherWOOD CAB acrylic lacquer be brushed on? I’m not too worried about aesthetics as I am the protection factor. Also if brushing on, do I need a lacquer thinner?
    
    Reply
    - Brad July 7, 2020 9:38 pm
      
      For brushing, I think something like Polycrylic would get you better results. CAB acrylic dries too fast to even out, so you’d have to do tons of sanding to get the brush marks out – it’s really designed to spray on.
      
      Both Polycrylic and CAB acrylic lacquer will give you water clear finish (which I personally really like), but for darker woods there’s also polyurethane varnish, which will add a yellow color. It can easily be brushed too.
      
      All of these should be very durable.
Isaac Moore October 7, 2010 7:14 am

I just wanted to add a caveat to the S-W precat lacquers. The gloss version is only available in 5 gallon drums, so if you are (like me) a weekend warrior, and are only doing small projects (desk, dresser, toybox, etc…)I would go with another brand. I have used Mohawk 80 sheen gloss with great results and I can buy a gallon at a time (online). S-W does carry their semi and satin in 1 gallon cans, but most pro finishers recommend building coats with gloss.

Reply
sam whaley February 10, 2011 11:35 pm

Isaac, indeed the S.W pre-cat version is available in one gallon, I live in Ga, I repeatedly get mine from my local S.W. paint store. I love this stuff.

Reply
jc davis July 1, 2011 9:59 am

Precat is only available at SW here in KC as fives….otherwise I’d try it too….

Reply
Jason March 15, 2012 5:04 pm

Does anyone know of a fix for wood filler bleeding through to the top coat? I am using a white laquer paint to spray some cabinets and I have a pink area showing around all my wood filler repairs. Can I simply spray a coat of catalyzed semi gloss lacquer and then reapply my top coat?

Reply
- thewoodwhisperer March 15, 2012 5:12 pm
  
  Dewaxed shellac is one of the best sealers for stuff like this. And it tends to be compatible with all types of finishes. That’s what I would recommend.
  
  Reply
  - Jason March 15, 2012 6:10 pm
    
    Is this the kind I see at Home Depot in a spray can? I think its a zilsner or bullseye product. I was thinking shellac as it will work over knots but wasn’t sure if it would work with the lacquer.
    
    Reply
  - Jason March 15, 2012 6:25 pm
    
    I am just learning that the lacquer paint I used was a non catilyzed paint. I was going to put a clear coat of semi gloss lacquer over it to give me a semi gloss finish. SW has a lacquer but it is catalyzed. Will this matter or do I need to find a non catilyzed for the top coat?
    
    Reply
    - thewoodwhisperer March 15, 2012 6:42 pm
      
      Probably doesn’t matter as long as the base layer is cured. But you should be able to find a non-catalyzed lacquer product at SW if you want to go that route.
Jonathan July 20, 2012 11:29 am

For a good and affordable waterborne, give Hydrocote Resisthane a try. It is available in clear from Highland Woodworking and both clear and pigmented from Hood Finishing http://www.hoodfinishing.com/H.....ishes.html I built a bathroom vanity for my parents and they wanted a painted finish in gloss white. I sprayed on the white and put 2 coats of gloss clear on top of that and it turned out great. After about 45 minutes it can be sanded and it powders nicely and doesn’t clog up the sandpaper the way the trim acrylics from the big box stores did. It gets hard and has good blocking resistance for shelves so that objects don’t stick after sitting for a while like latex does.

Reply
Will January 14, 2013 9:24 am

Hi, I have recently started a small business venture building longboards and skateboards, I have been playing around with different sealants for the boards and think that lacquer gives the boards the best looking finish. Could I possibly get some suggestions about what type of lacquer to use? Keeping in mind that these boards are constantly being flexed and pushed aggresively. I am also using glass for grip by sealing the small glass pieces onto the board with sealant, so the sealant must be very durable. I guess I am looking for a product that is flexible, very durable and resistant to wear and tear.

Thanks, I would really appreciate any advice on the subject.

Will

Reply
- thewoodwhisperer January 14, 2013 2:20 pm
  
  I would imagine there are some heavy duty finishes I’m not even aware of that would be good for what you describe. But what comes to mind is something oil-based. Lacquer finishes can be beautiful, but they are fairly rigid. Not sure that’s the best choice for something requiring a little flex. Given the fact that moisture might be involved as well, you might take a look at marine varnishes. Those are meant for outdoor environments where expansiona and contraction, as well as moisture, are constantly present.
  
  Reply
  - Rob March 25, 2013 12:37 am
    
    Marine Varnish (Epifanes) give a high gloss finish, but the color is golden brown. It’s great for dark colors, but I would avoid in on whites and pastels.
    
    Reply
Carlos March 27, 2013 6:01 am

Hi,
I would not recommend using a brush in painting wood furniture with lacquer finish for someone who is a beginner. Lacquer is quick to dry and if you are not skilled enough you may get good results such as brush strokes.

Reply
Alan Lichtenstein April 6, 2013 5:12 pm

Which Sherwin-Williams Pre-Cat Lacquer are we talking about here?
The SHER-WOOD® Acrylic Conversion Coating appears to be Pre-Cat, but is it a conversion varnish or a lacquer.
The SHER-WOOD® CAB-Acrylic Lacquer doesn’t appear to be a pre-cat lacquer (no mention of catalyst on their web site.)

Is there another finish that is the Pre-cat CAB Acrylic lacquer?

Which is the finish that you are suggesting to use, Marc.

Reply
- Marc Spagnuolo April 7, 2013 7:44 am
  
  Unfortunately, the Pre-Cat CAB Acrylic Lacquer I’m talking about isn’t all that easy to get. Here in Pheonix, we have a Chemical Coatings division of SW downtown that sells it. But none of the local store locations carry it. It seems to be a special order sort of thing. So if you can get it, it’s great stuff.
  
  Reply
Leonard July 20, 2013 10:43 am

Larry,
My dad was a painting way back in the day and I used it with him and had great experiences with it. He is gone now so I have no chance of asking him questions I have. But I remember him talking about white water lacqouer and how water resistant it was. At the time we were using laccqouer for spraying cabinets and construction. I am now working in wood working and making furniture. But my question is I remember my dad telling me that furniture finished with the water white lacqouer would not leave water marks where wter accumulated on the table tops under drink glasses. Is this true? Or was he talking about some other lacqoure finish?

Reply
Jim November 2, 2013 9:11 am

I am using Sherwin Williams Catalyzed Lacquer (precat) in my home shop. A good friend built a desk and used Minwax stain on it. Will this lacquer work over that Stain? I have very little experience with Minwax products.

Reply
- Marc Spagnuolo November 2, 2013 12:05 pm
  
  I’m pretty sure SW recommend a special vinyl sealer under their catalyzed lacquers. But honestly, we used to apply the stuff over fresh oil-based stains all the time with no issues.
  
  Reply
Adrian March 13, 2014 5:08 pm

HI I was wondering if I could get some suggestions for a project I am attempting. I am trying to put a thick lacquer finish on a axe handle that is hand braided with think leather. I am wanting to preserve and protect the leatherwork . I plan on dipping the handle in a long cylinder of lacquer until I get a thick coating. I haven’t a clue as too what type of lacquer to use . From what I read I gather Acylic lacquer may work. I am a younger person trying this for the first time and would greatly appreciate any suggestions or comments on how to do this right . Thank you very much !

Reply
- Marc Spagnuolo March 16, 2014 7:54 pm
  
  Honestly, this is a bit out of my league. I don’t know anything about treating leather with lacquer. I’m wondering why you would want to essentially put plastic over leather. Seems that might defeat the functional purpose of the leather. But again, I don’t know much about axes or treating/protecting leather.
  
  Reply
Jim L March 17, 2014 9:47 pm

I am building my own kitchen cabinets with black walnut face frames and door frames and tiger maple door panels and drawers. I want the grain on the tiger maple to “pop” and want to ultimately finish the cabinets with pre-cat lacquer. I plan to finish the door panels prior to assembly with a finish compatible with the lacquer. I would prefer to not have a 4-step finish, but need to ensure that I won’t get fish eyes in the lacquer. So, I was thinking about starting with aniline dye in SealCoat to pop the grain, then sand and finish with varnish as illustrated for the pencil box project. Will I then need to put on a coat of SealCoat in order to later spray the lacquer on top? Would the grain pop as well by just putting the dye into the varnish, thus skipping a step? Thanks for any help you can provide!

Reply
Chris Holbrook April 16, 2014 5:27 am

Hey Marc! Yes, many years late to this post but having just finish Jeff Jewitt’s book on Finishing I have to say this is the best explanation I’ve read on the various lacquers out there. And I completely agree with the Sherwin-Williams CAB-Acrylic comment at the bottom. I have been spraying just the CAB product for about a year now and WHOA, what a fun product to work with. Lays down so very nice.

Reply
Jorge May 7, 2014 8:45 pm

Yo Marc,
Great site and awesome YouTube channel; I have a question: I own an old (60’s) grand piano that’s in desperate need of refinishing, being the Do-it-yourselfer kinda guy I am, I want to refinish my own piano, I had a professional refinisher come out and he told me that the current finish on my piano is lacquer. The piano is all black and shiny. I started reading about lacquer and now I don’t know if I should go for a base paint (and possibly primer) of black paint and then apply a gazillion coats of clear lacquer to get the high-gloss piano finish or just use a black lacquer, what is the difference, benefits, pros/cons if any? I never held a *spray* gun before but it doesn’t seem that difficult. Also, I know guitar luthiers swear up and down by the nitrocellulose lacquer but I don’t want it to yellow over time, what should I do? The piano is veneered but like I said it’s all black. Thank you so much, oh and I’m in Las Vegas so humidity and temperature will not be an issue. Thank you.

Reply
- Judy December 2, 2014 7:04 pm
  
  Hi, Just trying to sort something out. I have a large wall unit which is pecan wood, medium tone with a lacquer finish. The piece is in remarkable condition. Can I apply a dark stain and lacquer over existing lacquer finish? I have been told some time ago that I would need to use “universal tinting lacquer.” I have been unable to locate this product. What I want to accomplish is a dark , kind of like mahogany color. Is the above process possible? Thanks
  
  Reply
  - Marc Spagnuolo December 2, 2014 8:58 pm
    
    The previous lacquer has sealed the wood so a regular stain would be ineffective and not advisable. If you do as advised and use lacquer that has dye added to it, you can certainly layer that on top to get a darker color. Ultimately, you might just have to make it yourself by picking up your preferred lacquer product, and then adding some dye to it such as Transtint.
    
    Reply
- Jessica Hart August 28, 2016 10:40 pm
  
  I wish Marc had responded to your question about the piano… I too would like to know! I realize its been sometime since you asked, did you ever get it restored?
  
  Reply
  - Marc Spagnuolo August 29, 2016 6:29 am
    
    Guess I missed this one when it came in. Sorry about that Jorge. I don’t have tons of experience in the “painted” finish arena but if it were my piano, I’d go with tinted lacquer. I find that builds up a gorgeous finish with color in each coat. So by the time you have 3-4 coats applied, you can switch to regular clear gloss lacquer and begin layering as thick as you want. As for the types of lacquer, see if you can find some CAB Acrylic lacquer for a non-yellowing alternative.
    
    Reply
Paul May 31, 2014 3:59 pm

I’m wanting to re=finish some older kitchen cabinets in my home that have a honey oak stain with a lacquer topcoat. I was going to sand them and use an oil based primer then paint with a waterborne paint. Probably SW pro-classic or Ben Moore satin impervo. Both of them would be the waterborne acrylic latex enamel. I don’t want to use oil because of drying time and the chance of yellowing. (I’ll be painting an off white color) Now, I’m hearing that waterborne isn’t a good product for kitchen cabinets and that lacquer needs to be sprayed and is very dangerous to use in an occupied home. Has anyone painted their cabinets with waterborne paint and gotten really good results? I was going to use a quality brush but may consider buying an airless sprayer to do the job if I use the waterborne. Would oil or a pre-cat lacquer be a better choice for kitchen cabinets or would the waterborne be ok???

Reply
Matt gavin August 19, 2014 4:49 am

I’ve been using s w hi bild lacquer for years in my antique restoration buisness and suddenly having issues matching sheen with the dull rubbed tech support has no idea. I always stir apporpitly

Reply
- Marc Spagnuolo August 19, 2014 7:12 am
  
  Hmm….not sure I can help. Perhaps they’ve been mixing it incorrectly. Might just try a new can and see if that improves results.
  
  Reply
Ian Fassnacht August 19, 2014 10:45 pm

Marc,
I am curious of your opinion on Krylon Special Purpose lacquer ultra hard factory like finish sold at Sherwin Williams. I am looking for a rattle can lacquer for my humidor and this is what they have at my local SW.

Thanks,
Ian

Reply
- Marc Spagnuolo August 20, 2014 7:46 am
  
  Never tried the stuff. Can’t really offer an informed opinion unfortunately.
  
  Reply
  - Ian Fassnacht August 22, 2014 11:43 am
    
    No worries. I bought that, a can of deft and Rust-Oleum from home depot and I’m going to use my excess veneered spanish cedar to test the different lacquers to see which one I like better! I’m excited about this humidor project! :)
    
    Reply
tony brereton September 18, 2014 6:38 am

Hi, I sanded down an oak desk, dyed it with rustins dye (ebony) let it dry for 2 days, tried to roll on an ac lacquer with catalyst mix (10 to 1), when I rolled it on the dye lifted onto the roller and as a result the finish had a lighter (med oak) bubbled look, anyone know why this has happened ?

Reply
- Marc Spagnuolo September 18, 2014 6:44 am
  
  Sounds like the dye just wasn’t adhered to the surface completely. Usually can be prevented by sealing in the dye with a light coat of finish, usually by spray.
  
  Reply
- DanShaf February 14, 2018 5:42 pm
  
  The solvents in your rolled-on lacquer re-wetted (reactivated) the dye that you put on. You will need to spray on your lacquer to avoid that.
  
  Reply
Jose November 18, 2014 5:54 pm

Hello, what is the difference from regular clear lacquer and Clear High Build Lacquer? I notice that the high build is more shiny than the regular.

thanks

Reply
Kyle November 20, 2014 4:57 pm

With nitrocellulose lacquer do I have to apray the clear coatfor it to harden properly, or can i go with just the color?

Reply
Matthew February 2, 2015 9:09 am

Hi, I am having some nice custom furniture I designed built (very expensive). My first is a console table and will be getting to the finishing stage in a few weeks. I have been reading up on lacquers, varnish, poly, etc.. and have decided on lacquer since it seems to be the most used. All the builds are solid walnut (no sapwood). I would need some UV protection also since things like my bookcases will be near windows, etc. and get direct light.

BASE: I was looking at General Finishes Enduro Water Based Dye Stain
SEALER: do i need one?
TOP: sher-wood CAB-Acrylic Lacquer (i don’t want any yellowing). Is sherwood better than general finishes lacquer?

most of my pieces I will do in a semigloss or satin. But a few will be polished out to a high gloss using Menzerna.

Should I use all sherwin williams? I want the best… cost is not a factor. What do other high-end finishing companies use? Thanks!

Reply
- DanShaf February 14, 2018 5:57 pm
  
  Your dyes will fade because they will be exposed to sunlight. Metalized dyes, in general, are more resistant to fading, but it depends on the color (sometimes).
  
  Build with gloss and use a sheen-adjusted topcoat as your final coat, in this case semi-gloss or satin. Rubbing out sheens that are not gloss coatings can leave you with a have in the finish. The haze is from the flatting agent that’s in the finish. There is no flatting agent in a gloss coating.
  
  As for “money is no object”, they are all good coatings, each company and each coating has its pluses and minuses, including the cost of the material. Get a coating that comes with it superb tech support.
  
  For what you want to do, Menzerna isn’t the only game in town. Meguires is much more user friendly and their line smells better, too. Personally, my arsenal includes all of the brands, I use some for this and some for that. For polyester, though, I do use Menzerna because they make a full array of stick compounds, perfect for loading up my felt wheels.
  
  Reply
- Julianne February 3, 2020 2:22 pm
  
  Hello,
  My husband and I recently bought a faux marble dining table. When we got it home we realized two corners are a bit wrinkled in the lining due to rubbing on the box. We’re thinking of applying some kind of clear coat all over to keep more visible parts of the faux marble lining from ripping or tearing, but have never lacquered anything and are not sure what would work best! It’s a white and grey faux marble, if that helps.
  
  Reply
Jorge February 28, 2015 1:43 am

Hi Marc,
Great site and awesome YouTube channel; I have a question: I own an old (60’s) grand piano that’s in desperate need of refinishing, being the Do-it-yourselfer kinda guy I am, I want to refinish my own piano, I had a professional refinisher come out and he told me that the current finish on my piano is lacquer. The piano is all black and shiny. I started reading about lacquer and now I don’t know if I should go for a base paint (and possibly primer) of black paint and then apply a gazillion coats of clear lacquer to get the high-gloss piano finish or just use a black lacquer, what is the difference, benefits, pros/cons if any? I never held a *spray* gun before but it doesn’t seem that difficult. Also, I know guitar luthiers swear up and down by the nitrocellulose lacquer but I don’t want it to yellow over time, what should I do? The piano is veneered but like I said it’s all black. Thank you so much, oh and I’m in Las Vegas so humidity and temperature will not be an issue. Thank you.

Reply
Deepak March 26, 2015 8:58 am

Great blog! I am planning to use 2 coats of epoxy on a walnut “vanity” top for a bathroom sink and would like a glossy finish (with UV protection not required), Size is small so I will brush/roll it on. Varnish? Lacquer? Polyurethane? All thoughts welcomed! Thanks!

Reply
- Marc Spagnuolo March 27, 2015 6:35 am
  
  Unless you’re thinking about using a catalyzed lacquer, I’d probably avoid it. But the other options will all work depending on your desires for the finish and your skill in applying them.
  
  Reply
Laylah Sullivan April 8, 2015 3:42 pm

I’m new to spraying and was wondering what was the best type of lacquer is for spraying build in book shelves in a house. The house is occupied so I wanted to use something that had low odor.

Reply
- Marc Spagnuolo April 8, 2015 6:37 pm
  
  You might want to avoid lacquer all together then. I don’t know of any lacquer that wouldn’t cause the people to vacate the premises for a couple of days. You might consider a water-based finish instead. It will still have an odor and need some time with good ventilation but it won’t be nearly as bad as lacquer.
  
  Reply
Laylah Sullivan April 9, 2015 11:51 am

Now I am getting confused by all this info and my head is spinning. One of the woodworkers I spoke with thought that I’d have trouble with a water based poly running because he didn’t think it would dry fast enough. He usually uses lacquers….but he sprays everything in his woodshop (almost everything anyway) which is well ventilated and safe.

I have the added restraint of being in a persons home spraying a built in and they are living in it now. Did I mention that my husband the general and finish carpenter build the built in…I really don’t want to screw it up! Would you recommend a poly…like Minwax® Fast-Drying Polyurethane? Or do you concur with the aforementioned opinion. Please suggest some options if you don’t think that water-based poly will work.

Several of the threads I’ve read where people have used the Minwax fast drying poly in their HVLP sprayers have said they had good success with 3-4 thin coats. Several mentioned they think that the formulation has changed so they now thin it with mineral spirits. If this is true I am unclear how much to use however? One gentleman said to avoid the cloudy/plastic look he sprays 2 coats of gloss, followed by a final coat of the sheen desired (satin, semi-gloss, gloss). Is this a good practice that you would suggest. I watched your video 155 – Waterborne Finishes & HVLP so at least now I understand why a ‘water-based’ poly would be thinned with a solvent. Thanks!

I started out excited about this project and now i’m nervous .

Reply
- Marc Spagnuolo April 9, 2015 4:39 pm
  
  Any finish will run if you spray too heavy of a coat. So you need to be careful on those vertical surfaces, no matter what you use. I’d still say your best bet is water-based. Have you considered not spraying at all? Especially if it’s an occupied home, a brushed-on finish means much more control and no over-spray.
  
  Now if you go with oil and you decide to spray, you haven’t really picked up any advantages. It’s a more durable finish, in the end, but it’s still just as likely to run on vertical surfaces and you have the added negatives of a longer dry time and more odor. And if you want to apply 3-4 coats you’re looking at potentially 3-4 days of work, depending on the drying conditions. Also, I’m not a huge fan of spraying oil-based finishes. I find them to be finicky. So I stick to spraying finishes that cure quickly like lacquer, shellac, and water-based.
  
  The advice about layering gloss and then finishing with the desired sheen is solid advice. It’s not always necessary but it’s good (fairly standard) practice. And that goes for any type of finish you apply.
  
  There isn’t only one right answer to this question, but if you’re asking me what I’d do, I’d use a water-based finish.
  
  Reply
Conrad April 23, 2015 10:10 am

Hi im buying a house and it has an oak kitchen with golden oak stain and i was thinking of sanding them with maybe 220 sandpaper and then spraying a white laquer on them. Should there be any problems with that? Thanks,

Reply
Duncan Fletcher August 31, 2015 12:26 pm

Is there a black CAB lacquer? If not, what do you suggest for the black finish underneath clear lacquer on hardwood table top? Because the original finish was lacquer, staining will not work. In either case, I am having trouble getting the CAB lacquer in Tucson. The local guy says he may be able to order if he has a part number. So, what is the part number for black, if available? Or for clear if not? Thank you for the information.

Reply
- Marc Spagnuolo August 31, 2015 2:21 pm
  
  You can make any lacquer black by adding black dye or pigment. So you might try asking the local store if they can mix up a batch of lacquer (CAB or not) that has the black color added to it. You can find the part numbers on the MSDS tab on this page: http://oem.sherwin-williams.co.....ic-lacquer
  
  Reply
  - Timothy Campbell January 28, 2017 9:19 pm
    
    Marc,
    Where can I find this dye or pigments for lacquer? I have been wanting to try my hand at refinishing guitars and love Sherwin Williams lacquers for refinishing furniture. I don’t use anything else..
    
    Reply
- BRIAN TOWNS March 13, 2019 7:00 pm
  
  i spray clear gloss laquer over latex flat and chalk paint allthe time.
  
  Reply
Buddy compton November 14, 2015 8:31 pm

I have about 20 yrs finishing under my belt. I use a product called varicure that is a precat lacqure. It will not blush when cold or raining, shoots right out of the can. No yellowing, flowed great, can be found on Chem Craft web sight.they also have a post cat product called D-Dur that is out door rated and is very tough and flexible. Works on archery bows, never had a fail due to flexing.

Reply
Yehuda Srulowitz March 16, 2016 7:45 pm

Hi guys.
I just came home from my local sherwin williams with a product called
Sherwood moisture resistant lacquer I would like to know what is it ?
Is it a pre cat or a nitrocellulose if anyone can help out in this lacquer mess I will really appreciate it
Thanks

Reply
- Marc Spagnuolo March 17, 2016 7:03 am
  
  I don’t really know. I doubt it’s catalyzed though since it usually says that right on the can. Your best bet is to contact them directly.
  
  Reply
- John Vissari June 1, 2016 7:21 pm
  
  How did it turn out? We’re using the Sher-Wood moisture resistant lacquer on a walnut vanity in our shop for the first time and are not at all pleased with the results. The lacquer scratches easily and lifts off in some places. We’re going to have to sand everything down and start over. We are a professional shop and have never had results like this. I found your comment while searching if anyone has had similar results.
  
  Reply
  - Yehuda Srulowitz July 22, 2016 12:24 am
    
    I’m sorry I’m late but I just stopped over here cuz since i.used this product I never touched lacquer again it was such a mess I made a room with bookcases on all four walls and I have put on on it like 6 cotes day, sealer, stain, glaze, and than whan I put on the lacquer after a week I have to strip down the whole project it was such a mess…..
    
    If any one here can find for me this pre cat cab acrylic and send it out for me can content me here in I will really appreciate it.
    
    Reply
Bob Antoniewicz April 10, 2016 3:13 pm

I am finishing a spiral staircase in my shop. First try was with Dura Seal waterborne poly. Disaster. Now I am sanding that all off, and trying to decide what’s next. I may have to do poly again, because there are some parts with ingrain that seem to have absorbed the poly a little more deeply than I can sand out. I will check this with Naphtha after I finish sanding.

Difficulty is that it is a very complex shape that is impossible to work from one side to the other methodically (start on the center post, when you get to a tread, do you do the tread or keep going on the post?) Don’t have a spray gun, and if I did, with all the balusters and narrow access, it would be difficult to get good complete coats without runs.

Any recommendations out there?

If I am able to sand all the poly off, would there be a better finish to use (it is made of maple, and I’d sure like to keep it as close to natural as I can.)

Reply
mark jaekle April 22, 2016 9:41 am

Hi, I had kitchen cabinets professionally spray painted. The painter however, used flat instead of a semi-gloss. Can you provide guidance of coving the flat paint with some type of gloss topcoat?

Reply
- jeff chandler April 4, 2017 8:26 pm
  
  If the painter used a latex then you can use some waterborne lacquers, you have to discuss with who is providing your clear. I have used Valspar’s pre-cat lacquers on many types of paints and stains and with 2 coats I usually can get the sheen and hardness of finish I desire.
  
  With the Valspar, I recommend sanding between the base( paint) and the lacquer coat. I use a 320 grit, wipe off with naphtha, spray lacquer, then second coat of lacquer. I usually only have to wait 15-20 min between coats.
  
  Reply
Kim June 18, 2016 10:04 am

Hi! I’m looking to simply liven up the original wood on some antique wood crates. What would be the best way to get away from the ‘dry wood’ look? Thanks!

Reply
- Marc Spagnuolo June 18, 2016 11:07 am
  
  Just about any glossy topcoat would do the trick.
  
  Reply
Matti Peppers September 5, 2016 1:10 pm

Dude,

Thanks for this response. I’ve been pulling my hair out trying to make sense of lacquers for some time now in order to learn how to finish my tables myself. The gentlemen down at Home Depot and Lowes haven’t been any help. The best information available to be found in one place has been from your videos and articles. I really appreciate the information.

Matt

Reply
Therese September 15, 2016 4:50 pm

Which works better with lacquer, an air compressor and air spray gun or an airless gun and pump? I have sprayed oil based paints and vanishes with the air guns and am not sure if I need to invest in an airless to achieve the smooth finish lacquer gives.

Reply
- Timothy Campbell January 28, 2017 9:03 pm
  
  Therese,
  I use an air compressor and a air spray gun. It works very well. If the lacquer product your using doesn’t appear to be spraying right, I just add up to 10% high grade lacquer thinner to the product.
  
  Reply
Andrew Levine December 31, 2016 10:51 am

Related question – for paitning previously finished cabinets (maple cabinets with poly), what’s the best way to prepare the surface for the CAB Acrylic Lacquer? I’ll scuff it up with sandpaper first, but do I need to prime prior to spraying the lacquer? Or maybe just a sealer coat of shellac first? Or am I safe to just scuff up and spray?

Thanks!

Reply
- Timothy Campbell January 28, 2017 9:08 pm
  
  Andrew,
  I have sprayed kitchen cabinets before. After your top coat or stain of choice, a light scuff or 800 to 1200 grit sand paper should suffice. Just to smooth out the surface and get rid of any trash or nibs you may have
  
  Reply
Jason Berk January 5, 2017 10:57 pm

Hi. I live in California where my kitchen cabinet finisher advised that the white lacquer paint sold here was very susceptible to water damage due to environmental regulations. Sure enough he was right. Around the kitchen sink where water drips the paint is cracking and peeling off the cabinets. I want to get the cabinets repainted, but want a waterproof solution. What do you recommend?

Reply
Normathepainter March 12, 2017 7:15 pm

Are we talking pigmented lacquers or only topcoats? I have a kitchen to spray out and want to try a pigmented lacquer but am frustrated Sherwin Williams only recommends a bonding primer as the undercoater. These are for repaint cabinets and not raw wood. Thanks!

Reply
- jeff chandler April 4, 2017 8:30 pm
  
  Valspar now has a polyester base that sticks to metal, wood,etc- dries in 15 mins. I love it. And you can clear lacquer right over it. My experience is that I wipe everything down with naphtha between coats, to make sure I don’t leave any oil off of my hands, also any moister will evaporate before next coat.
  
  Reply
Melanie Winfield April 2, 2017 12:17 am

Hello, we are in the process of building a white oak gate. We are leaving it natural white oak and want to finished it with something that will not yellow and that will protect the wood. I purchased “Sher-wood”CAB Acrylic laquer in dull rub effect. After reading all the comments now I am wondering, would I be better off finishing it with a pre-cat CAB acrylic lacquer since the gate will be out doors? It’s going to be under a shade tree and we live in the Phoenix area so not as much rain or humidity. But the door will get washed off from time to time. Thanks for your help

Reply
Willie’s April 26, 2017 9:17 pm

I have been using a heated turbin hvlp system for spraying laquer for 30 year’s. Can anyone tell me how the SW cat laquer will respond when heated? I have to thin my laquer so it will spray out nice.

Reply
Kim Jarrett-Kann May 3, 2017 5:58 pm

Hi. I’m starting a new large wood project and I want the wood to have a high gloss so I was looking at using a lacquer. My original sample piece I brushed on the lacquer but that is going to be too labor intensify for the amount of pieces I’m working with. I’ve not done the spraying but I was actually interested in dipping my 5″ x 10″ wood pieces and then hanging them to dry. Any suggestions or opinions on the matter?

Thank you,
Kim

Reply
- Marc Spagnuolo May 4, 2017 6:19 am
  
  That could work, but you’ll have drips at the bottom of the piece where the material collects as it dries. You can use a razor blade to remove the extra material after it dries. It won’t look perfect but depending on what you’re dipping, that might be ok.
  
  Reply
Danny July 2, 2017 6:39 am

So I’ve acquired a post-catalyzing conversion varnish for a built-in cabinet project I’m currently working on and finding information on using these products seems to be very limited. I’m trying to find out what type of sprayer would be best for the application, I have an airless sprayer and an HVLP as well.

Reply
Kristen Bouwman September 24, 2017 11:34 am

Hello wood experts! I’m hoping someone will see this and give me some insight.
My name is Kristen Bouwman, I’m the music therapist at the VA hospital in Chicago. I want to use a wooden instrument called a Kalimba with my hospital patients, but the porous wood is not a good idea to take into certain isolation rooms because it is not cleanable. The instrument is made of steel and African Kiaat wood. I’m trying to find a good lacquer for this type of wood that will not hinder the vibration of the instrument a large amount, and will also be able to stand up to strong hospital-grade cleaning chemical wipes that I would use between patient contacts.

Any advice would be welcome – I was excited to find your message board. Please feel free to drop me an email if you have any ideas! 44Sapphire44@gmail.com

Thanks a million,
Kristen

Reply
M Skustad March 12, 2019 6:45 am

I am a retired shop instructor and have sprayed many gallons of lacquer. Our shop didn’t have very good results with water based products. We did have good ventilation and equipment. Now I use SW catalyze lacquer for bigger builds with good results. I am currently building smaller items (creamation boxes) and often don’t use an entire gallon within the recommended 6 months. I can only buy gallon contaners. I still get very nice results but am wondering about the longer range durability. I don’t like the rattle can plan since spray patterns usually can’t be controlled.
Ing

Reply
BRIAN TOWNS March 13, 2019 7:02 pm

i use mohawk and a fuji q5 and have great results.

Reply
Jim Miller May 26, 2020 3:24 pm

We just purchased a kitchen island with a wood top that may have some wood laminate sections on it. To guard against water/food stains, I located a Sherwin Williams store that has Sher-Wood Hi-Bild Precat Lacquer for sale in gallon cans. When I told the store manager I planned on applying it with a foam brush because the island is already set up in our kitchen, he said it had to be sprayed or it couldn’t be warranted, so I didn’t buy it. I have watched a video of a guy applying precat lacquer with a brush; so now I’m confused. What would make Sherwin Williams precat unable to be brushed on? I’m considering ordering Mohawk precat lacquer on line. Any thoughts you have will be appreciated.

Reply
- Marc Spagnuolo May 27, 2020 12:04 pm
  
  Well you said “foam brush” to the Sherwin Williams store and that’s a no-no. Lacquer will dissolve the foam. A regular bristle brush will not deteriorate. So that’s one reason for their recommendation. They also might recommend spraying simply because that’s the easiest way to get good results. Lacquer dries very quickly so it can be difficult to brush onto a large surface. So in addition to the foam brush issue, they may simple advise against brushing the product at all. Does that mean you can’t brush it? Nope. You can do whatever you want. But I’d advise practicing on scraps first to see how tricky it can be to get a nice clean layer of finish when it dries quickly.
  
  Reply
LPB October 16, 2020 12:16 pm

Any thoughts on dulux diamond kote for kitchen cupboard boxes

Reply
Logan February 17, 2021 9:53 am

Could you give me a product number for the SW pre-cat CAB that you use? Could that be sprayed in a Earlex 5000? What tip? Should it be thinned? Is it non yellowing? Could I spray a conversion varnish with that gun? Any help would be appreciated with product numbers. Thank you for taking the time to help. What types of paint could I spray the pre-cat over?

Reply
Dana Doering February 26, 2021 11:34 am

Hello, we had a new home built and the contractor switched finishing products half way through the project so we have different finishes (one satin, one glossy). He started with a Watco Crystal Clear Interior Lacquer and then switched to a Sherwin Williams High-Build Pre-Cat lacquer. On some areas the difference in sheen is VERY noticeable. In other areas it’s clear he didn’t put enough coats of lacquer. In other areas he use wood that was not dried appropriately as there is expansion resulting in exposed wood about 1/4″ thick. I liked that Satin finish look best (Watco product) but recognize the Sherwin Williams product is better quality. I would like to have the cabinet door expansion areas addressed by sanding and respraying which were done in the Watco product, can I go over them with a Sherwin Wiliams High-Build lacquer or do I have to use the same Watco product? On the flip side on the areas that have the gloss Sherwin Williams can I go over those with a low satin Sherwin Williams? Needless to say this whole experience has been a nightmare as some door and window trim has two different finishes.

Reply
- Marc Spagnuolo February 26, 2021 1:29 pm
  
  You shouldn’t really have any issues going from the watco product to the pre-cat lacquer. Going the other way, I’m really not sure if there will be issues putting the watco over the pre-cat. I might talk with Sherwin Williams about it. Worst case scenario, they might be able to suggest a product you can use to essentially “prime” the surface.
  
  Reply
Greg March 7, 2021 7:51 pm

How well does CAB acrylic lacquer repair compared to oil, and/or waterbourne varnishes? Would a pre cat lacquer be better suited?

I’m thinking of trying this on a coffee table. I do have an HVLP gun and a large compressor so air isnt a problem.
Thanks!

Reply
Alan June 7, 2021 12:17 pm

We electric guitar people WANT the lacquer to yellow (not really yellow yellow) over time. In my book, any light-colored wood finished with a super-clear finish looks cheap and tawdry.

Reply
David Hunter June 9, 2021 1:58 pm

Just discovered this thread. Is it possible to use General Finishes Java Gel over post catalyzed lacquer? Will they work together or not? Thank you.

Reply
Steve McCormick January 27, 2025 7:58 am

Hi, Marc. Just thought I should let you know that all of the links at the bottom of this blog post are returning Page Not Found errors.

Reply
- Marc Spagnuolo February 1, 2025 1:18 pm
  
  Thanks Steve.
  
  Reply

Cookie	Duration	Description
cookielawinfo-checbox-analytics	11 months	This cookie is set by GDPR Cookie Consent plugin. The cookie is used to store the user consent for the cookies in the category "Analytics".
cookielawinfo-checbox-functional	11 months	The cookie is set by GDPR cookie consent to record the user consent for the cookies in the category "Functional".
cookielawinfo-checbox-others	11 months	This cookie is set by GDPR Cookie Consent plugin. The cookie is used to store the user consent for the cookies in the category "Other.
cookielawinfo-checkbox-necessary	11 months	This cookie is set by GDPR Cookie Consent plugin. The cookies is used to store the user consent for the cookies in the category "Necessary".
cookielawinfo-checkbox-performance	11 months	This cookie is set by GDPR Cookie Consent plugin. The cookie is used to store the user consent for the cookies in the category "Performance".
viewed_cookie_policy	11 months	The cookie is set by the GDPR Cookie Consent plugin and is used to store whether or not user has consented to the use of cookies. It does not store any personal data.

Different Types of Lacquer

Lacquer 101: Breaking It Down

My Recommendation

Spraying Lacquer: Know Your Conditions

Final Thoughts

Advertisers