154 – Wall-Hanging Tool Chest (3 of 3)

Video - August 9, 2011

This one is all about assembly! I receive a lot of requests to include more details on my assembly process. This is a detail that many articles, videos, and DVDs tend to leave out, so hopefully this helps to fill some gaps. Keep in mind that every project will require a different glueup and clamping strategy, and this is just one way to get the job done. Hopefully it will give you some tips and tricks that you can put in your virtual “tool cabinet” for future use. I also cover the layout of my tools and how to secure them inside the case.

Remember, this video is being pulled from the Wood Whisperer Guild archive for your viewing pleasure. For more information about the Guild, check out WoodWhispererGuild.com
Here is a closup of the ply endgrain for those that requested it.

Discussion

Phil August 9, 2011 8:48 am

Hi Mark,

Looking great!

One thing you could do with the inside of the right hand side door is paint it with blackboard paint and make a little trough for chalks at the bottom.

Phil

Reply
Jacob August 9, 2011 9:25 am

I second the chalkboard, or maybe even dry erase board. I know I can never find a paper and pencil when I’m working on a project, usually one not they other. And my 5 year old stands on the other side of the room drawing with my pencil asking what I’m looking for.

Jacob

Reply
Chester August 9, 2011 10:27 am

Marc –

Great video! Your production just gets better and better.

Question: (sorry if this was answered during the design phase)

Is the doubled top and bottom really a structural need? Or could it be just as strong (after gluing and assem-bu-lee) if it had been single layered top and bottom?\

Also, could you show some closer pics of the exposed laminate layers, especially on top and bottom. I bet they look great!

Chester

Reply
- thewoodwhisperer August 9, 2011 1:19 pm
  
  Well, with a tool cabinet, I didn’t want to take any chances. Honestly it probably is overkill in terms of stability and strength. But it really game me the look I wanted and I was “extra” sure the cabinet was strong.
  
  And I just posted that pic for you. Oddly enough, someone requested the same thing when this video was posted in the Guild. So I had the picture ready to go for you. :)
  
  Reply
Chester August 9, 2011 11:10 am

Never mind on the pics … just saw the one above. The plies look amazing!

Reply
Larry Clinton August 9, 2011 11:47 am

This is something I need to build. I’ve got a section of wall above my workbench that would be perfect for it. I just have to get some other projects out of the way first.

Reply
Mike Thornbrug August 9, 2011 5:42 pm

Mark,
I’m not a fan of mag catches… what do you think of Brass Ball Catch Rockler Part# 58392.

Reply
- thewoodwhisperer August 9, 2011 6:06 pm
  
  Ain’t nothin’ wrong with some brass balls Mike! :)
  
  Actually I think a ball catch is perfectly fine for this application. The doors, especially if loaded with tools, will be fairly heavy. So it won’t take much to lock them down and keep them from opening on their own. Just about any catch will work.
  
  Reply
Neil Hutchison August 9, 2011 7:12 pm

I’m looking to build a similar project to make something for my son’s bedroom. Having issues finding somewhere in San Jose or even online that can supply Baltic Birch in sizes greater than 36″ x 48″

Anyone out there know of a supplier and can point me in the right direction?

Reply
Jozef Babjak August 9, 2011 10:45 pm

Great work! I will definitely need to build some shop furniture and storage soon, so thanks for inspiration. The doors seems to me like ideal place for spiral bits, rulers and try squares. Of course, it is up to everyone to organize the interior. However, I’m very surprised: no finishing?

Reply
- thewoodwhisperer August 10, 2011 7:22 am
  
  The next video on the calendar is Waterborne Finishes and HVLP. That is actually kind of like part 4 of this series. And that’s where you’ll see the finishing.
  
  Reply
Randy K August 9, 2011 11:13 pm

Hey Marc,

Great looking tool cabinet, I’m sure you’ll show us pictures of it with finish on it. I’d really like to see how much of the ply’s show, I guess it’ll depend on how dark you went on the finish. Good idea with the mounted clip board, I have a few hanging around the shop myself (one project per board) with a can sawdust in it to save my tips, and a pencil sharpener on a string.

Take care.
Randy

Reply
Donald August 9, 2011 11:18 pm

Hey mark Love your W.O.W. shirt do you play

Reply
- thewoodwhisperer August 10, 2011 7:09 am
  
  If I wore the shirt and didn’t play, you have permission to make fun of me. :)
  
  Reply
  - Donald August 10, 2011 11:25 am
    
    I won’t make fun I was just qurious
    
    Reply
Claude Stewart August 10, 2011 8:11 am

I like those clamps. I think my Bessy clamps would a hard time doing that. I think you might get to hover right until the exact moment you really wanted them up there. Maybe you could some advertising on your back for those shots.

Reply
Hora August 10, 2011 1:10 pm

I like to do all the furniture in wood, but you would like to use the door handles of metal, or do you prefer to be faithful to the wood?

Reply
- thewoodwhisperer August 10, 2011 1:30 pm
  
  I see it as a purely aesthetic choice. I do like to use wood whenever possible, but I certainly have nothing against using metal hardware for looks, functionality or convenience.
  
  Reply
Wirenut August 10, 2011 1:31 pm

Great stuff Marc. I’m in the process of building storage cabinets for my shop so the “shop furniture” projects are the ones that are the most interesting to me right now.

Thanks for the useful tips and techniques on joinery and glue-up assembly. Just one quick question:

Did you leave the cabinet bare or did you apply any kind of finishing? I’m thinking that a quick coat of varnish could make the plywood layers on the end cuts really stand out (since you mentioned in the first video that that was the “look” you were seeking).

Reply
- thewoodwhisperer August 10, 2011 2:49 pm
  
  Check out the comments a few up from here. :)
  
  Reply
Paul August 10, 2011 4:16 pm

Marc are you not afraid of condensation forming on the bottom of the planes. I always thought (and correct me if I’m wrong) is the reason many people hang their planes at an angle is to allow for air flow between the back and sole. Well aside from it being a little more secure. But then again perhaps in you’re climate you don’t have to worry about it.

Have you heard any info about Silica Gel Dehumidifiers, Anti-Corrosion Emitters, or other humidity controlling products. Do they really or are they just another gimmick?

Reply
- thewoodwhisperer August 10, 2011 4:38 pm
  
  Definitely no fear of condensation here. We’re lucky if a glass of ice water even sweats. But if I were in a more humid climate, I suppose it might be a concern. I wouldn’t hesitate though to buy some of those Silica Gel packets and throw them into the case just to stack the cards in my favor. I believe they work, but not sure how well. Perhaps someone else can offer some perspective on this?
  
  Reply
Peter Leyden August 10, 2011 6:52 pm

Looking at the way the top and bottom of the cabinet are attached to the sides, it appears as if the integrity of the entire cabinet relies on the glue joints. What if the sides of the cabinet were dadoed with the top and bottom fitted into the sides,that way the integrity of the cabinet is guaranteed, even if a glue joint should fail..I realize that the possibility of this happening is nil, but building the cabinet..that way is essentially like turning the cabinet on its side.
Am I way off base with this? Would this cause problems that I do not foresee? In any case, swell job on the cabinet and the video!

Reply
- thewoodwhisperer August 10, 2011 7:22 pm
  
  That’s certainly a stronger way to build a box. But putting the top and bottom into the sides wouldn’t allow for the look I was going for. Having the large overhangs was important to me. Also, since the top and bottom are very thick, the dados are deeper than normal. Furthermore, the back panel is securely joined to the structure on all four sides as well as at the center. So its really a question of “does it really need to be any stronger?”. In my opinion, no. I think the cabinet is plenty strong to support its own weight and anything I put in it. But I can’t argue with the logic that there are stronger ways to build a box. Perhaps one reasonable alternative would have been to construct an interior box, then simply glue the top and bottom to the box itself.
  
  Reply
Matt Clark August 11, 2011 10:11 am

Like the project, built similar toolboxes for my boss at a design studio when we built out his current studio.

For pulls I prefer a four-finger sized cutout (or large circle) in the door to prevent snags, although I’m used to a much more cramped workspace and the units were floor mounted in rows down the length of the shop. I used european (ikea style?) hinges too because due to mounting them side by side we could only get 90 degrees opening and couldn’t use piano, although they’d probably be better because european hinges tend to come out of alignment.

For planes, I’ve always seen others and stored my own tiny (but growing) used plane collection on their soles, is the vertical storage just for space saving? I’d be wary of using magnets as I wouldn’t want to inadvertently partially magnetize the sole to have grit from my workspace eventually start to stick and scratch it. Maybe I’m just paranoid. Cool idea though.

My favorite plane storage was discovered when I looted an Irish woodworker’s bench in an estate sale, he’d passed away and blinded me with brilliance- he simply had leather loops riveted to his pegboard and would hang the plane by its knob in the leather loop, sole resting against the wall mounted pegboard. Worked ingeniously. I also snagged his 70’s psychedelia nudie calendars.. that might have been the best part.

For the inside of doors (again, me being paranoid) I love hanging lighter stuff like chisels, files, bits and the like.

Great video and very jealous of your stellar festool/clamp collection. That west systems epoxy is GREAT stuff too!

Reply
- Matt Clark August 11, 2011 10:13 am
  
  Oh, and for the glue up I used Rockler’s “45
  
  Reply
Chris August 11, 2011 10:27 am

Been looking forward to this, I know what I’ll be watching tonight (between innings of the Tigers/Indians game, that is).

I think I’ll grab the sketchup and tweak the insides to my liking before embarking on this. My current tool storage is very, uh, spartan, let’s say. Having a relatively dust free place for my planes & chisels & router bits & such would be very nice.

Thanks for posting these!

Reply
Sanford August 11, 2011 11:42 am

Thanks for Sharing Marc. You helped cleared up some fog I was having about design.

Reply
karl August 11, 2011 1:01 pm

Awesome prodject!!!! Im re designing my shop and want to biuld one.

Thanks for posting the video! :)

Reply
Rick August 11, 2011 6:59 pm

Great Video!!! But where’s the outtakes!

Reply
Mike August 11, 2011 8:03 pm

Keep the videios coming. Just 1 more and the nose guy will finally be off the main page :)

Reply
- thewoodwhisperer August 11, 2011 8:11 pm
  
  OK now that just made my laugh my butt off!
  
  Reply
- Jay September 15, 2011 8:37 am
  
  Mike,
  
  I thought I was the only one less than excited about that video… :)
  
  Jay
  
  Reply
VitalBodies August 12, 2011 1:02 am

Nice video and cabinet. You made this cabinet some time back. If you did another what would you do differently?

Reply
- thewoodwhisperer August 12, 2011 7:14 am
  
  I think the only thing I might change at this point is the doors. I might make them a little deeper. Even 1″ deeper would allow for a lot more options for what you can stash in there.
  
  Reply
  - Jay September 15, 2011 8:40 am
    
    Marc,
    
    When I built mine earlier this year, I made my doors about an inch deeper than you did and I find most things fit…so I agree with your comment.
    
    http://woodtalkonline.com/topi.....e-cabinet/
    
    Jay
    
    Reply
Dave August 12, 2011 7:39 am

Marc,

I just wanted to say thanks for putting these videos up for all to view. I am a very new woodworker and am always looking for ideas on the very basics. I find myself coming back to your site and these podcasts time and time again. I may not be building the particular project that is the subject of the video, but I do take away a lot of information on the various techniques you use.

Cheers, Dave

Reply
Dan August 12, 2011 8:24 am

The timing of this project is great as I will be adding a hanging tool chest to my new workshop relatively soon. My dilema is that I am at a point where I need to invest in a good set of clamps. I have some basic (cheap) clamps that need to be replaced so I’ve saved up as I know the ones I’ll need are not cheap.
What kinds (brand) are you using in this video? And what sizes would you suggest I invest in?

Reply
- thewoodwhisperer August 12, 2011 10:58 am
  
  Hey Dan. I primarily use Jet clamps. Bessey are certainly a comparable option. My suggestion would be to start with one of the Cabinetmakers kits. These are typically a set of 4 clamps: 2 in the 24″ range and 2 in the 40″ range. Start using them in projects and see which ones you typically wish you had more of. Use that as your basis for stocking up in the future.
  
  Reply
jHop August 12, 2011 10:11 am

Do you have any suggestions for mounting the cabinet if you do not have studs readily available to use? I have a cinder block wall and brick wall I’m looking at using, but I am not allowed to drill into this surface.

Reply
- thewoodwhisperer August 12, 2011 10:56 am
  
  Oh boy that’s a tricky one. I am hesitant to make a recommendation here since anchoring something this heavy to masonry, without penetrating the surface, sounds a little dicey. Perhaps someone better versed in this area can chime in with suggestions.
  
  Reply
  - Randy K August 12, 2011 6:44 pm
    
    Hey Marc,
    
    I got an idea how about building a stud wall, and anchoring it to the rafters above, and the floor below then you’d have lot’s of room for other stuff.
    
    Randy
    
    Reply
Brice Arnold August 12, 2011 12:41 pm

Question on design:

On your handplanes, it doesn’t look like there is a lip on the base. Is it possible for for the planes to slip out from underneath the catch? I know the magnet helps but just curious if it’s possible for the plane to slide out.

This is a perfect project that I look forward to. I am rebuilding my shop and need to make a similar cabinet for my planes. The have otherwise been sitting in their boxes for the last six years and are a PITA to pull out when I need to use them.

I recently found your website and have been perusing the archives. Thanks for a wonderful website and the great videos.

Reply
- thewoodwhisperer August 12, 2011 1:23 pm
  
  Hey Brice. You wouldn’t be able to pull the plane out without breaking the clip off the top. And really this isn’t an issue for normal applications. You can certainly add a few things or modify the design to make it even more secure, but I can tell you after using it for over a year, it is certainly secure enough for most folks’ needs.
  
  Good luck with your build!
  
  Reply
Mike M August 12, 2011 1:19 pm

The springback you have on closing the doors is probably due to the cabinet side hitting the edge of the door. If you put a thin shim between the door and side when you install the hinges they would close better. I find the sample chips of plastic laminate are about the right thickness (.040″).

I also like to use a centering bit to drill the starter holes for the screws to prevent an off center screw from pulling the hinge.

The beveled top and bottom in the BB makes for a classey looking piece.

Reply
Paul C August 12, 2011 4:59 pm

Marc,
I really liked this project. I can see that it would be quite useful in almost any shop. Another idea as far as the doors go is to add a piece of thin sheet metal and use it to attach magnets to hold items.

Reply
DAN MIDKIFF August 12, 2011 6:59 pm

Great job, Marc!!! This gives me ideas for my own shop.
When you cut the dados for the sides to fit in the bottom, would it be good to use the exact-width dado jig (#139) to cut these parts? It seems it would be stronger to thave the whole width of the plywood in the groove without cutting them down.
Thanx for the great tips and lessons!!

Reply
- thewoodwhisperer August 13, 2011 7:48 am
  
  Yep! You can certainly use a jig like that to get the exact width. Should work quite well.
  
  Reply
Rob August 12, 2011 8:08 pm

Beautiful cabinet; but I can’t get one question out of my head: Are French cleats actually French?

Reply
- thewoodwhisperer August 13, 2011 7:47 am
  
  Oui?
  
  Reply
Sean August 13, 2011 1:30 pm

Great small project, Marc. My wife told me today that my shop was messy. I take that as the “go ahead” to build my cabinet. I recently inherited my grandfather’s Stanley Bedrock planes so I need a place to store then now. This will do nicely.

Reply
Steve L August 14, 2011 1:47 pm

Nice cabinet Mark..Just remember, it will have to be kid proofed for Lil’ Spagg. I hope your bride is doing well………sl

Reply
Mr. Mike August 14, 2011 11:03 pm

Really nice production.Full screen looks great even without hitting the HD button. Using dixie cups can be an issue when mixing some materials though, I once was mixing lacquer with dye and the wax from the dixie cup caused fish eye (seperation) with the toner. Way cool cabinet.
If you want to put a paper clip on the front of the door without screwing it on, those earth mags on the inside of the door would work. I just tested a 3/4 mag. and it held a samll file through 1/4 inch ply. Even held a pen.

Reply
Pat August 15, 2011 2:09 am

I plan on building something siliar this winter but I am going to build the doors with peg board so that I can hang a few things on them and utilize every inch of storage.

Reply
- Jay September 15, 2011 8:45 am
  
  That’s what I did. I built the doors as Marc did then added sleepers and pegboard on the inside. I’ve seen some where the panel of the door is one layer of pegboard so you can hang stuff on the inside and outside, but to me the little holes will let the cabinet fill up with dust over time.
  
  Reply
jose Varela August 15, 2011 10:26 am

Hola te escribo desde el otro lado del charco, de Vigo Espa

Reply
- thewoodwhisperer August 15, 2011 11:06 am
  
  Here’s the translation for those who are interested:
  “Hi i am writing from the other side of the pond, Vigo Spain, i am a carpenter of vocation and formation, your videos are very interesting, but it gives us a bit of work pass measures from inches to mm since Europeans (less than the english) at the beginning of the previous century we moved to the metric system, (my great-grandfather a great cabinetmaker had to pass by the trance), and it would be interesting to wear some in addition to pilgadas the 1308 in mm, cm.”
  
  My Reply:
  As much as I would love to provide metric numbers throughout the video projects, it becomes quite confusing and is a lot more work than you might think. Fortunately, we have technology on our side. We nearly always provide a SketchUp drawing for our projects. All you need to do is open up the SketchUp model and change the units to metric and you’ll have all the info you need to build the project. Just go to Window > Model Info and make the appropriate changes.
  
  Reply
  - jose Varela August 15, 2011 12:42 pm
    
    Gracias por la aclaracion, utilizare el programa para poder hacer la traslacion ya que antes usaba la calculadora.Lo que me interesaria, ya que todavia no he podido conseguir, es ese juego de escuadras peque
    
    Reply
Grzegorz August 16, 2011 1:07 am

Hello,

Woodworking is my hobby from about one year, I have to admit that you have one of the best podcasts about woodworking in the web. I’ve already watched all your episodes, but I have to admit that now – when I understand more – I’m going to watch them one more time :)

Your videos are really helpful and I enjoy them a lot.

Reply
jose Varela August 16, 2011 2:59 am

Excuses, the translator trumps me, telo remand in English.

Thank you for the explanation, the program will use to be able to do the adjournment since before the calculator was using.
A question, since I could not have obtained it here, is this game of small set squares that you have, since I can obtain them. Thank you A greeting

Reply
- thewoodwhisperer August 16, 2011 6:35 am
  
  Not sure which one you mean. But I frequently use this one:
  http://www.leevalley.com/US/wo.....2945,44279
  and this set:
  http://www.amazon.com/gp/produ.....B001DT16PK
  
  Reply
Jim August 16, 2011 7:30 am

Marc,

Thought of a great idea while you were discussing the look of wood and your desire to make the most out of the front of the doors. I may try this when I do my build: What if you take a sheet of metal (no greater than 3/32″) cut to your panel dimensions and, using epoxy, veneer your wood to it…then you can finish it (thinly?) and use magnets on the ‘wood’ surface and get the exact look you desire!

What do you think? Anyone ever try that before?

JIm

Reply
ShamWerks August 17, 2011 7:20 am

Kudos Marc,

Yet another brilliant project, I loved how you kept it simple.

Just a quick comment : at 19:30, you check the side of the magnet to be glued… But since it’s sticking to an iron piece (your planner), there shouldn’t be any specific “side”, any would do! Sides, or poles (north/south) apply only magnet-to-magnet, not magnet-to-iron… Or am I lost?

Cheers from the French Riviera, keep on the great job!

-Jim-

Reply
- thewoodwhisperer August 17, 2011 7:31 am
  
  haha yeah you’re right. That was pretty dumb of me. But I do have a good excuse. That’s a carry over from a trick i use whenever using rare earth magnets as catches and stops. To make sure I have the proper poles aligned, I put the two magnets together and mark the faces appropriately. So I just went with my habit and stuck it to the plane, lol. But you’re absolutely right. It does’t matter.
  
  Reply
Chad Tennant August 18, 2011 4:05 pm

Finally saw this last video.

Love it.

I will be moving into a new garage/workshop in the next couple of months and this project will be a great one to help me organize my new shop.

Marc, if you had made this out of MDF, do you think it would have the same strength for the amount of tools you would put into it?

Chad

Reply
- thewoodwhisperer August 18, 2011 5:57 pm
  
  Nope. Generally speaking, I believe just about anything made from MDF would be “stronger” if made from a good quality plywood. That’s a total blanket statement but I have found it to be true. That’s not to say MDF isn’t “strong enough” for many applications.
  
  Reply
Mark August 19, 2011 7:28 pm

I noticed you don’t have much glue squeeze out, any tips on how to know when you have enough glue but not too much?

Reply
- thewoodwhisperer August 19, 2011 7:57 pm
  
  I think if you have a thin even coating on all mating glue surfaces, that’s adequate. Some joints will naturally have more squeezout than others so its hard to say how much is enough. But if you never see squeezeout, you’re probably not adding enough glue.
  
  Reply
Rob August 20, 2011 6:18 am

What brand of epoxy do you use and what is the open time of it?

BTW I love the videos, I’ve been planning on building a couple similar cabinets and will incorporate some of your ideas into mine.

Reply
- thewoodwhisperer August 20, 2011 8:09 am
  
  Thanks very much Rob. Its West System epoxy. Slow hardener gives me at least 10 minutes working time and the fast hardener gives me at least 5 minutes.
  
  Reply
Thomas Tieffenbacher/Doc Savage 45 August 27, 2011 7:15 am

Mark,

Nice work. Got the “norm” joke. Your phrasing is oft times like his. :)

Hinges and squeeks? You aligned by eye? Understand AZ weather is stable. And there are a few comments about moisture and planes. Plywood is pretty stable but is there an issue about joint expansion and contraction forus folks whose weather and humidity runs the gamit?

Nice job on clear commenting for us Newbies?

Hey Charles is going to be in Tuscan (sp?)

Gotta go to my real job. LOL

Reply
jorge October 4, 2011 10:02 am

es la primera ves q encuentro tu pagina y es la mejor q e visto auq no se ingles pero te haces entende eres grande chaval

Reply
Sal October 14, 2011 3:22 am

I know I’m late to the party but watching this video brought up a point that I was taught, and I want to pick your brain on it. I was taught that if at all possible to let the back panel float, ie not put any glue on the joints of the back panel. Maybe a bit between the center stile and the back panel to help keep it straight (the stile), and centered (the panel) if the panel was big enough.

The idea was to let the back panel expand and contract independently so the whole piece wouldn’t warp with changing temps & humidity. The other glued dado’s supposedly have enough strength to support most loads.

Your thoughts?

Reply
- thewoodwhisperer October 14, 2011 7:46 am
  
  That is really only a concern when solid wood is being used. This project is all plywood so movement ins’t much of an issue. All joints can be milled to size and locked in place with glue.
  
  Reply
Thomas Tieffenbacher/Doc Savage 45 October 15, 2011 6:30 am

Interesting thread. When putting down flooring, ie 4×8 sheets of tounge and groove there is a recomended allowance for expansion and contraction. I have also built cases out of plywood to dimension w/out allowing for the expansion and contraction. I believe it sometimes also requires consideration of extreme weather changes in the area in which we live? :) MN vs. AZ?

Your thoughts?

DocSavage45.

Reply
Lanney November 8, 2011 2:26 pm

This the best information for a beginner in cabnet making that I have ever seen, even better that the master “Norm” which is saying something. Please keep it coming.

Fan

Reply
Roy December 27, 2011 1:01 pm

Something nice!!!!

http://www.falconmotorcycles.c....._chest.jpg

Reply
Roberto February 13, 2012 5:52 pm

Ol

Reply
Sean Rubino March 2, 2012 7:54 pm

Just finishing mine up this weekend. I may play with some stains to get the extra practice for other projects. Thanks for opening this series up to the free site, Marc. Now I can finally have a place to store my Grandfather’s old Bedrock planes.

Reply
Hans September 23, 2012 10:33 am

Thanks for the video.
Epoxy is a very good glue but it is also a nasty stuff. Always wear gloves then using it.
If you want maximum strenth use some type of filler.
Read more here: http://www.westsystem.com/ss/use-guides/

//Hans

Reply
PhilCo December 7, 2012 1:56 pm

Hi Mark, I really like the concept, and will definitely making one or two of these, as I have just moved Countries, and had to sell my entire workshop, so I have got to replace a lifetimes collection of tools! Call me lazy, but for me the important part is functionality, rather than looks, so my version will not be quite as pleasing on the eye!

Reply
Angelo Franceschinis July 23, 2014 5:59 pm

Hey Marc
Great job on that cabinet
Instead of using the magnets & clips. How about installing the back board on an angle inward so the hand planes & the other hand tools don’t fall out.
Just a thought
Thanks

Reply
entropete October 24, 2015 9:23 pm

Excellent!
Harry’s be damned, bring back the soul patch.

Reply
Randy January 20, 2018 8:52 pm

Hey Marc,

Newbie question: Why did you go past your layout line on the stopped dado for the sides? I know you notched out the front of the side panel but were you not concerned about going too far? I just want to know your thought process.

Thanks,

Randy

Reply

Cookie	Duration	Description
cookielawinfo-checbox-analytics	11 months	This cookie is set by GDPR Cookie Consent plugin. The cookie is used to store the user consent for the cookies in the category "Analytics".
cookielawinfo-checbox-functional	11 months	The cookie is set by GDPR cookie consent to record the user consent for the cookies in the category "Functional".
cookielawinfo-checbox-others	11 months	This cookie is set by GDPR Cookie Consent plugin. The cookie is used to store the user consent for the cookies in the category "Other.
cookielawinfo-checkbox-necessary	11 months	This cookie is set by GDPR Cookie Consent plugin. The cookies is used to store the user consent for the cookies in the category "Necessary".
cookielawinfo-checkbox-performance	11 months	This cookie is set by GDPR Cookie Consent plugin. The cookie is used to store the user consent for the cookies in the category "Performance".
viewed_cookie_policy	11 months	The cookie is set by the GDPR Cookie Consent plugin and is used to store whether or not user has consented to the use of cookies. It does not store any personal data.

154 – Wall-Hanging Tool Chest (3 of 3)

Advertisers