Natural Looking Finish?

Article - January 26, 2009

This week’s question comes from Eric who asks:

“I’ve got a finishing question….I bet you get tired of hearing that! I have your Go-To Finish Video and it is definitely top-notch…excellent work. I have started using the Arm-R-Seal and I agree that it is a great product. My question stems from the need for protection on wood furniture, especially on the table I am building, but I really prefer the way wood looks raw, right before putting on finish. As I understand, Arm-R-Seal is a pure wiping varnish, so it is technically a clear finish. However, there is no denying that even this clear finish really changes the look of the raw wood (makes it darker like when you wet the wood). Do you have any suggestions as to how I can provide some good protection for the wood without really making it much different than the light, soft look of the raw wood?”

And this was my response:

Hi there Eric. Thanks for the kind words. So we have two issue to discuss here: film thickness and color. Any oil-based product is going to give the wood some kind of an amber color. So if your goal is to keep the wood as natural-looking as possible, you might want to avoid oil-based products. What you want to go for is a finish that is known as “water-white”. This means that when it dries on the surface of the wood, it won’t bring any color to the party. Just about any water-based finish fits into this category. There are also water-white lacquers that work very well. One of my all-time favorite finishes is Sherwin Williams CAB-acrylic lacquer, which imparts little to no color to the wood.

But remember, if you put enough coats on, even a water-white finish can look “unnatural”. So you want to avoid a super thick film. Also, you will most definitely want a finish with flatteners in it, so a satin or matte finish would be appropriate. If it shines, it won’t look natural either. The key for you Eric is to experiment on scrap. There are a lot of variables at play here like the type of finish and the number of coats, so some experimentation is in order. Good luck!

Discussion

Joe R January 26, 2009 11:57 pm

Hi Eric, Marcs suggestions are very good. I would note that once you put any finish on the wood, it will change the color (depending on the finish) to a more or lesser degree (like your “wetting the wood” example). There is, however, the method of sanding and polishing the wood which will still be natural, and then (for protection) do a wax finish. The only problem with this is that the wax is not a very protecting finish at all. It will need regular maintenance. The bottom line is that Marcs idea is probably the best compromise of the least change of color and offers a good protection. Experiment, and do sample tests. Good luck.

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- Peter December 31, 2018 5:34 pm
  
  Wax will leave a shine, which is what the OP is looking to avoid.
  
  Reply
- Douglas Kyle March 1, 2021 8:40 pm
  
  Hello and thanks for the awesome tips.
  However, I can’t get my local Sherwin Williams dealer to bring in the CAB acrylic lacquer, (also wondering, is a quart size available, as I don’t need a full gallon for my project).
  Is there any other comparable brand you could recommend for as natural as possible and non-darkening as best, finish for a weathered greyish oak wood? I might just opt for an unfinished look to keep that very weathered and antique look: repurposed 50+ year old slats from an oak sleigh
  Many thanks, Doug in Thunder Bay , Canada.
  
  Reply
  - Marc Spagnuolo March 2, 2021 9:58 am
    
    Sounds like you need to look into water-based finishes. They’re non-yellowing and won’t take away that natural look you’re going for. The only thing I’ve sprayed recently that was water-based was General Finishes High Performance https://amzn.to/2PjfWAI. Pretty good stuff. But there are surely other brands and product types you can investigate. I have heard a lot of good things about Target Coatings but never had the chance to try them. https://www.targetcoatings.com/
    
    Reply
    - Gallaher Finishing October 21, 2022 5:52 pm
      
      I would suggest modern master dead flat if you want absolutely no yellowing. General finishes and Sherwin a water based finishes will still amber the wood slightly.
Todd A. Clippinger January 27, 2009 12:59 pm

I can second Marc’s suggestion for Sherwin’s water white lacquers. I use have used these and I like them.

Besides building custom wood projects, I have also refinished a few hardwood floors as a remodeling contractor. It is amazing the difference in floor color between a water base and oil base finish. The water base finishes produce really light, bright colors in the wood and oil base finishes produce a darker color with a pronounced amber tone.

You may be wondering what floor finishes have to do with shop projects. Well, the same principle holds true for finishing shop projects.

You may want to try a small spray can on your desired wood. Black walnut can look really “cold” with a water base finish and benefits from the amber tone that an oil base imparts. Oak tends to have a more modern look with a water base finish and oil finishes will make it feel a little more classic.

When I am designing a project, the look of the finish is figured in as equally important as the stain, wood type, or grain pattern.

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Tim TAN January 27, 2009 1:42 pm

HI guys :

This is interesting. Everybody I have talked to face to face has always liked the warm color of oil finishes; some like the amberish tone of tung oil, while others prefer the slightly yellowish tone of linseed oil and varnish.

If nothing else, some will use blonde shellac to impart a light golden tone to liven things up.

For me, I absolutely hate staining and believe in letting the wood speak for itself. However, I do love the light golden color that Zinsser shellac sealcoat imparts. For oils, I always use the linseed oil / polyurethane blend for the warm look and natural tone. Tung oil is too orange for my taste.

This is the first time I am seeing woodworkers liking the color of raw, unfinished natural wood. Perhaps this is what is truly the NATURAL look.

Well, to each his own, I say.

Regards
Tim

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- C T June 15, 2016 10:24 am
  
  It is a huge tred – white/natural/raw looking wood. I think the modern world has grown tired of dark woods, and there’s even a benefit to keeping lighter colors in the home- it makes it look larger. Peruse any design blog these days and you’ll see washed-out, sun-bleached wood surfaces. Will this mean lighter woods will remain as a trend? Who knows. I do know that as a designer myself, the look of darker, browner wood immediately turns off clients, makes things look old, crowded, or just plain “too dark”.
  
  Reply
  - Katy August 11, 2017 9:14 pm
    
    I recently had a mantel built for me and was going for the natural/white look. They covered it with a gloss and it had a yellow tint. Any suggestions on how to fix it and help it return to the more natural/white look?
    
    Reply
    - Susan July 3, 2019 6:52 am
      
      Same just happened to our gorgeous wood bathroom … sand! I am going to try the Sherwin-Willimas CAB-acrylic laquer for a more natural look (water not oil based).
Loz February 7, 2012 9:46 pm

I too like the raw finish of wood, I have seen for sale in local furniture shop the raw look. They have a flier on how their wood is finished and they don’t finish it with anything, they just sand it smooth, rough and or rustic looking, using recycled timber. They suggest u may like to spray it with a water protectant spray ( jist like one u spray on ur furniture or shoes) but also give u suggestions on how to mop up spills.

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bagnato August 11, 2012 2:34 pm

We are currently dealing with similar problem with purpleheart. We don’t want to lose any of the brightness of the purple because then it just looks like dark walnut. I undercoated the whole piece in the water base we use, and the base came very dark. The base, however, wasn’t sanded to the extent of the exposed portions. I am putting very very light coats, and not trying not to build up at all. Spraying on water protectant spray sounds like petrochemicals involved. We are attempting to be as green as possible, so no more spraying for us. Brushing on everything again after years of spraying due to my own chemical intolerances.

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Theresa April 21, 2013 8:34 pm

Have you used any of the WOCA Denmark products? I am looking for a “natural” and “raw” wood look and they seem to have what looks like the best solution and lowest VOC’s. It’s just that we do not think about finishes the way the Europeans do … Thanks!

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- Marc Spagnuolo April 22, 2013 8:19 am
  
  Never heard of ’em. Sorry.
  
  Reply
- Karen September 24, 2021 2:35 pm
  
  I have used white woca oil on my floors, cabinets, furniture and they are awesome! Very easy to wipe clean! We rolled/brushed on and let sit for abt 10 min and then buffed them and wiped clean. So great! For small furniture pieces, I put a green pad on my orbital sander and it worked great!
  
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Kenny Adkins April 2, 2014 5:48 pm

I made a table and burned “prom?” Into it and made a table from it for my girlfriend but I need a finish that won’t darken the wood like poly-urethane. Help?

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- Sue July 3, 2019 6:55 am
  
  Having same problem …. lucky girl by the way! See above … water not oil based product, Sherwin-Williams CAB-acrylic lacquer (water based, water-white).
  
  Reply
- Becky July 4, 2020 5:43 am
  
  Hello,
  
  We have to seal some sand blasted green oak beams in a bathroom, we want a Matt finish which won’t go yellow over time. It needs to totally protect the wood. Really stuck so appreciate any advice / experience dealing with oak beams
  TIA
  
  Reply
  - David Ogle December 17, 2020 2:49 pm
    
    Just leave it raw. Timber has enough natural preservatives to make it last yours and many more lifetimes after, even in a bathroom.
    
    Reply
Micah herbert February 27, 2015 9:58 am

Hey guys I build solely with semi truck flooring oak laminate. I have always used arm r seal, but recently have been frequently getting asked to use water based products, shellac, or lacquer. For all three of these I am grateful for the quick dry time. I have found that the water based does very little to changing the color of the wood. Arm R Seal definitely Goldens it due to the oil components. Today I purchased a varathane water based polyurethane to experiment with as well.

I guess my question for all you wizzes is whats the down side of using a water based product that dries to touch in 30 minutes? Or a shellac? The one thing with shellac is the gloss. A lot of people of ask for matte so I use the high performance made by arm r seal.

I’m currently building 62 small table tops for a restaurant in my 1200 sqft barn. I like the fact that I can get 3 coats of shellac on 25 of them within 1 day and have them 320 sanded and wrapped by the next day. Oil is great no doubt but the dry time kills me. Puts all production at my shop on hold for days.

I’m looking for the greatest protection, fastest dry time, and most options in terms of matte, satin, gloss.

Suggestions for a miracle brand?

Reply
- Todd October 15, 2017 7:27 pm
  
  What are you doing with your barn?
  
  Reply
- Karen Maloney November 16, 2020 8:37 pm
  
  Just saw your post and while I know it was years ago, thought I’d take a chance that you may see this.
  
  Modern Masters makes a product called Modern Masters DP401 Exterior Dead Flat Varnish Low VOC. I’m in the process of sanding down a 1950’s Gordon’s Fine Furniture credenza and wanted it raw with NO color change after applying the protective finish. I’ve not used it quite yet, but saw the before and afters on wood and stains and it literally leaves no sheen or amber tones, just protects the wood. Just the raw wood or stain if that’s what your after.
  
  I do know in 2020, the raw wood craze is even stronger and I have always been drawn to it anyway. I’m grateful to have found something that will not take away from the beautiful wood and all my hard work!
  
  Hope this helps, I am sure you’ve already found an awesome solution but just in case…
  
  Stay safe!
  
  Reply
  - Debby December 2, 2020 11:12 pm
    
    Hi Karen, just read your recommendation on the “modern masters exterior dead flat varnish”. Have you tried it now? Is there some reason you selected the outdoor product as opposed to indoor even for indoor applications? I am also searching for a product that will allow the original color show without amber or too much darkening.
    I have tried General Finishes & Varathane brands of water based flat top coats but have not achieved the look I want.
    OSMO makes a finishing oil with white pigment supposedly to combat the ambering but it is a satin so I prefer to try the MM but just question interior VS exterior.
    Thanks so much!
    
    Reply
    - Robyn Shapiro February 26, 2022 3:27 pm
      
      Did you end up using the Modern Masters? What one did you go with? Interior or exterior? I am looking for the same look. I was surprised it said for “faux and decorative finishes,” you think it works nice on real wood too? I am wanting to use it on a teak table top that I just sanded down.
    - Kristy January 2, 2023 7:18 pm
      
      I tried it and depending on wood your applying it out on it may not be what your looking for. I tried it and since I don’t know the species of my table, it in fact turned my raw into red undertones. So I went and tried liming wax and immediately hated it. So there I go again with mineral spirits wiping away the wax. -been months now still searching……….
  - Kristy January 2, 2023 7:13 pm
    
    I had also purchased the MM exterior dead flat exterior with hopes that it would keep my raw dining table, well RAW. It didn’t. When it dried it turned the wood reddish tone which I did not want. So sad to say it did not work for me as hoped.
    
    Reply
James Ruocco March 16, 2015 1:24 pm

I’m a wood turner and am doing quite a few ambrosia maple pieces which beg to be left pale. I use Minwax satin water based poly applied with a brush; one coat, let dry a day or so and then spin on lathe to use 4-0 steel wool to take finish down to flat. Looks great, but time consuming using steel wool. Any suggestions for alternatives?

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Melody May 15, 2015 8:52 am

Hi everyone, I too love wood working and am only about a year into this. I have built a gorgeous table out of reclaimed barn wood from the early 1800’s. The wood speaks for itself and I too want to keep the same natural beauty. I made this piece as an outdoor dining table and have tried several products on scrap wood; it always changes the color. Of course sanding it did as well. My Question is for an outdoor table that will have to endure all types of weather as I live up north what product do you suggest to keep it as pristine as it looks now?

Reply
- Marc Spagnuolo May 15, 2015 8:56 am
  
  A cover. :) Honestly, nothing will keep the table looking pristine outside. Outdoor furniture should be considered “sacrificial” and will require quite a bit of maintenance to make sure it lasts, especially if you have harsh summers or winters. So if you want it to stay pristine, keep it inside. If you want it to last as long as possible, get a cover for it. And also apply a good quality outdoor finish like Epifanes.
  
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- M January 22, 2021 12:00 pm
  
  Hi , I ordered the MM dead flat water based after researching and speaking to the company . I got it today and when reading the back it says not for raw wood . I called again and was told it shouldn’t be used on raw wood . This representative recommended either MM CLEAR SUPREME (water based )MCS901 or VARATHANE ULTIMATE POLYURATHANE WATER BASE 262074. I am also looking to maintain the look of raw wood , matte finish . Any input would be appreciated . R
  
  Reply
  - SNJmom November 12, 2021 7:24 am
    
    I used it on my antique oak buffet (all but the very top, as this needs to take the abuse of everyday use) and had no issues. I don’t know why it would even say you can’t use it on raw wood. Isn’t that the purpose of a sealer? I want to use my raw wood look antique buffet as my kitchen island. It has to take a lot of abuse with wiping up, etc. but still want it to have that raw, unfinished look. I *think* I’m going to put the MM dead flat exterior on first so the color doesn’t change. To give it more protection, I’ll follow up with a matte polycrylic. I wish the MM dead flat exterior would be sufficient, but if you look at ww websites, oil-based products with high sheen offer the best protection. Water-based flat offers the least protection. Maybe they will invent a product that can do both someday.
    
    Reply
    - Paul Jensen February 3, 2022 8:25 pm
      
      I did a test with MM dead flat on a piece of wood and once dry I tested it with a few drops of water. I soaked right through. This is meant to be put on top of a finish.
Melody May 15, 2015 9:14 am

Thank you, and Yes I would store it for the winter :) Epifanes? I have not yet heard of this will it change the color much and will it protect it from the rain? I don’t mind the upkeep of gorgeous wood.

Reply
- Marc Spagnuolo May 15, 2015 9:18 am
  
  Oh I forgot to address the color issue. Just about any finish is going to change the color. At least any finish that truly protects the surface. I have heard of folks using outdoor paint with no pigments as an outdoor finish and that might not change the color dramatically. But if it’s an oil-based product, color change is unavoidable. Water-based products don’t change the color quite as much but they also don’t hold up as well outdoors. It’s always a compromise.
  
  As for Epifanes, it’s a marine varnish and it’s used on boats. :)
  
  Reply
  - Luke October 28, 2022 11:23 pm
    
    If I may add, epifanes has awesome uv protection too, the best of all the spar varnishes, imho.
    
    Reply
Melody May 15, 2015 9:37 am

Thank you so much for your advice it is truly appreciated. I’m sure when I have completed this project I’ll have questions about the next! God Bless!
Is there a place on your site to post pictures?

Reply
- Rustyn July 26, 2015 1:57 pm
  
  Melody, what did finish did you end up using? And do you have before and after pictures of the staining process? Have some old rail cart farm table projects that I would like to start, and to me, the finish is most important. Just curious.
  
  Thanks,
  Rustyn
  
  Reply
Chuck Nienburg June 22, 2015 12:09 pm

Marc, Your original post seems to address exactly what we’re looking for in maintaining the raw color for our new white oak floors. You said, “There are also water-white lacquers that work very well. One of my all-time favorite finishes is Sherwin Williams CAB-acrylic lacquer, which imparts little to no color to the wood.”
I noticed this post was from 2009 and wondered if the product there would be any update to the product you recommended. Thanks very much.

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- Marc Spagnuolo June 22, 2015 12:15 pm
  
  Nope. I still use it all the time in my work. I can’t say for sure that CAB Acrylic is an appropriate finish for a floor but it sure works well on furniture.
  
  Reply
  - Lisa September 3, 2016 8:13 pm
    
    Hi, I just looked on the Sherwin Williams website and I can’t find anything called CAB-acrylic lacquer, did they change the name? Thanks, Lisa
    
    Reply
    - Marc Spagnuolo September 4, 2016 4:52 am
      
      Not that I know of. Try calling a local store and see if they have any in stock.
Linda Withers October 19, 2015 11:37 am

I have been looking for this natural finish, but cannot find any stores tat sell it in the UK, can anyone help please ?

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- Marc Spagnuolo October 21, 2015 7:25 am
  
  Unfortunately I can’t. I’m not too familiar with finishing products sold across the pond. You might try a woodworking forum where you might find some international folks who can make product recommendations.
  
  Reply
julie October 21, 2015 1:12 am

In the kitchen I have new skirting boards, I want to leave them natural, no paint. I have been told various ways to seal and preserve them. i.e to rub linseed oil into the wood to help preserve it; or beeswax to seal the wood. Do you think this is the best way forward. I dont really want to alter the colour too much. but obviously as they are in the kitchen they will need some sort of protection as well as regular cleaning.

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- Marc Spagnuolo October 21, 2015 7:22 am
  
  If you want a clear finish, a simply polyurethane varnish is probably your best bet. Take a look at products like Minwax Wipe-on Poly for an easy to apply solution. Linseed oil and/or wax might look nice initially, but provide VERY little protection in the long run.
  
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Brian flament November 12, 2015 7:11 pm

I am building a barnwood kitchen table and want to make it like a bar top but with that material it makes the wood the wet look and takes away the look of barnwood how can I seal it so I keep the worn out look but have a film to protect from food and liquid spills

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Rebecca November 30, 2015 12:56 pm

So I looked up info on the Sherwin Williams Cab Acrylic lacquer. Seems to be a product requiring spray on application, which I can’t do for various reasons. Any alternatives for a water based brush-on product? Or would it be possible to brush on this product..but very quickly, thinly without much reworking (since it’s a “lacquer”)?

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Melvin February 2, 2016 2:35 am

White oak floors were just installed in my home and I absolutely love the different colors. Is there a product on the market that can help me keep this natural look? Using an oil based product leaves the floor a yellow Amber color which I do not want… HELP!!!! Also, should I use a semi gloss or a satin finish???

Reply
- Dee March 12, 2016 6:42 am
  
  I’m sure it’s too late to help Melvin, since it’s been over a month, but for others with the same question I recommend Bona floor finishes. They are water-based and low VOC, they come in a range of sheens down to something super-flat that they call “natural”. I used this product on my old ubiquitous red oak 2 1/4″ floors two years ago. It is a two-part finish (you add some sort of activator to it before application). It lays very close to the wood and is a beautiful water-white color. Cures to walk on within hours, and you can move furniture in the next morning. I am a cabinet finisher by trade, so I have some understanding of how to finish wood, but although I had no experience with this product or the giant-squeegee-mop application process, I had no trouble achieving a professional finish on the first try. It’s pricey, but you won’t be thinking of the extra $50 in a year when you’re enjoying your floor.
  
  I might even consider trying it for a barn wood tabletop, although I have my own reservations about those. I think your best bet to both protect the wood and maintain an old, utilitarian-workpiece look versus a more plastic high-build finish is going to be some kind of wax, however the degree of roughness of your wood may preclude any wiped-on finish options. Spekva, which is a European company that builds butcher-blocks, has a proprietary oil that contains carnauba wax among others. It’s a pain in the butt, multi-day process to apply, but the last stage is to buff it with a white 3M pad (the zero-cut kind), and it polishes the wax for a silky but matte, protected finish. Remember this is for butcher blocks, so it expects to see water and high use. It smells beautiful and is totally safe. Cons are the long initial application time, the cost and difficulty of acquiring the darn stuff, and the fact you’re going to have to retreat it several times a year.
  
  WOCA, which was mentioned by another poster, is another fancy floor finish from Europe. It’s a completely non-toxic (I think they say it’s food safe) oil. Super pricey but gorgeous.
  
  Personally I would put the lowest sheen spar urethane (not spar varnish) I can find on a barn wood table and just live with the ambering and high build look. It’s easy to thin with a little VM&P, dries in a reasonable time, and you’re going to need that high build to protect you from all the dang splinters :) (on that note, don’t forget to sand the crap out of the underside of the table so your family doesn’t snag themselves on it at every meal). For a water-white finish in the past, I’ve used polycrylic by minwax that I bought at the big orange store. I’m talking for stuff around my house like pine window casings, not for cabinetry customers. Easy, odorless, super-quick drying and water cleanup. Finally, if the lowest sheen you can find is satin, and you’re using a rustic material anyway, you might just experiment with a dry-brushing technique as the urethane tacks off. That should knock back the sheen just fine, although it will take a little practice and artistry to achieve.
  
  I came upon this post because we currently have a customer who wants a sort of Dwell-magazine looking kitchen island from fir A/C plywood. Exposed veneer core on the edges. Very industrial. The thing is built but we are going back and forth because as the manufacturers, and more importantly, warrantors of this piece, we want to protect it, but the client wants it to look unfinished. We tried SW precat lacquer in a special-ordered 5-sheen and even that is too “finished” looking. Back to the drawing board. Of course we can’t just put a deck seal on it – this is going in a food preparation area. They are using the Bona “natural” floor finish in their home. My vote is to send the piece to them raw and let their floor finishers coat it. The point is, even us pros don’t have a solution that checks all the boxes all the time.
  
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  - amber October 11, 2016 4:16 pm
    
    Dee,
    I would love to know if you found a good solution. I am in the planning stages of a similar idea. Thank you for all of your great information in your comment.
    
    Reply
    - Lauren March 10, 2017 6:51 am
      
      Dee, it’s been a while but would you be able to share how this turned out? I’ve been curious about using the Bona Naturale finishes (and similar — also considering the Glitsa option) on things other than floors to achieve the natural look with durability.
      
      I can’t seem to find any other evidence of people doing this, online at least, but seemed like a no-brainer to me if there isn’t some technical nuance that makes that product only suitable for floors.
    - Matthew July 9, 2017 10:36 am
      
      I have been using Bona Naturale for interior casework and doors. It lays flat and beautiful, and I use Bona Amberseal first if I want more tone
  - Johnna Cumbee December 5, 2021 6:42 pm
    
    Hi Dee, I would love an email from you on my situation. Email address is johnnacumbee@gmail.com. I have a knotty pine room that is the real old knotty pine and it has turned very dark over the years. I sanded it and I love the look of the “unfinished” wall. What can I put on it to seal it but not change the color at all. The ceiling is like it too but I am going to paint it because I CANNOT sand that ceiling. I have googled, asks so many people and NO ONE knows what to do. A little fellow in Lowe’s told me to put Minwax Polycrylic clear topcoat water based on it. He said it wouldn’t change color. My question is – is that enough? Can that be all I put on it?
    
    Reply
Sherri February 3, 2016 1:08 pm

Hi Marc,I have a white oak floor that we were trying to keep natural, so the intention was to pickle it with a very lightly pigmented stain that would get mostly wiped off. This worked great u tests, but in actual application, the floor finished did not wipe it off enough, and got the finishing done quickly with a water based floor finish (Loba). The floor is too yellow (with also greenish undertones, and so is clashing with other wood and stone choices. I am wondering if anyone knows if it is possible to put a toner or dye into a coat of the Water poly to tone down the yellow?

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Julie April 5, 2016 6:29 am

Hi Marc,

We recently purchased a salvaged wood farm table and want to seal it but don’t want the color to change and want a flat finish. Is water white by Sherwin Williams still your preference or is there anything else you recommend?

Reply
Kristen Gray July 16, 2016 8:02 am

We bought a raw, barn wood, table for our dining room. We applied Modern Master’s Dead Flat Varnish – 3 coats – which is a water based varnish with no sheen. It might have darkened the wood just a bit, but it’s not really evident. It looks natural – no shine. We use place mats, but have had incidents of water spilling or condensation and no damage or evidence is left when quickly wiped.

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- Lea November 7, 2016 11:55 am
  
  Hi Kirsten interested in how this has held up over the past few months. I am about to seal my raw wood table in MM Dead Flat and wondering if it has flaked started to peel at all? Has it been resistant to water as well?? Thanks so much for any input you can provide!
  
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amber October 11, 2016 12:47 pm

I am very interested in the solution that Dee, came up with for her clients’ kitchen island. This is exactly the look and idea behind my home design. Thank you for the educational comment.

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SuzieQ October 17, 2016 9:03 am

Great article and comments! I am totally new to this… I bought a slab of ‘live’ edge Spruce to make into a table top, like others here want to keep to as natural looking as possible. while looking at general comment of working with Spruce I have learned it is very porous, and people that wanted to stain their soft wood talked about wood conditioning with 50% Mineral Spirit and clear Polyurethane to be absorbed into the wood. although I’m not looking to stain my wood it sounded like a sensible thing to do, would it not strengthen the top somewhat too if it is absorbed in, question is would a couple of coats seal and strengthen but leave a not too shiny finish as excess is wiped off?

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Karen Chaffee October 17, 2016 10:57 am

I stumbled across this forum and appreciate the input from your professional backgrounds, I am refinishing an old dresser to turn into a bathroom vanity with a vessel sink on top. I did use oil based stain for the top and prefer a matte finish to preserve the beauty of the wood, however it will obviously need to be protected from water spills. I personally do not mind using an oil based option, nor does minimal tinting bother me on the antique wood. Is there a product on the market that could give me spillage protection and yet be a matte finish?

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Sue Johnson November 17, 2016 10:59 pm

Hi we just sandblasted our open beam wood ceiling that had dark stain on the rafters and light varnish on the T&G from 1970. We love the natural look of the sandblasted wood. We have skylights. We dont know if we should seal the entire ceiling with a sealer like pentofin, clear, matte? or what do you recommend, it would have to be sprayed on. If we use an oil base sealer… will it color it with time? Will a water base sealer not protect the beams. Do we run the risk of any beams drying and cracking in the future in our skylight ares. What product do you recommend or could we just leave them alone. We are renovating, so now it the time to do anything. Thanks for any input

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- Jessica August 30, 2017 1:13 pm
  
  Hi Sue –
  I’m in the same situation, did you find a good solution?
  
  Reply
- lauren May 6, 2018 9:36 am
  
  Sue – We have gorgeous old fir rafters in our 50’s midcentury we are renovating. They were stained a dark brown and we have been torn whether to attempt the sandblast method or just stain over with a dark grey to get rid of the browns. I’d love to see any photos you have of the rafter project if you dont mind. Our entire house is open rafter so it would be a huge amount of sandblasting but could be worth it if they turn out to be a beautiful natural fir color.
  thanks!
  
  Reply
- Carol July 6, 2018 4:44 pm
  
  Sue we just sandblasted our woodbeam ceiling. What did you spray on yours to seal it?
  
  Reply
mikey December 18, 2016 3:47 pm

Good day folks..another snow day on the West Coast and we just finished sanding down our 60 year old white oak floors to bare wood. Our end goal is a flat sheen without darkening the light blond natural color. However, we tried low lustre Stay Clear water-based polyurethane from Benjamin Moore and it created a yellow tint with more gloss that we want. Is there a product that is durable for floors without sheen or altering the color of our natural oak floors?

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Shiloh Noone December 21, 2016 9:31 am

Hi , my question … I have vintage white teak barn doors and my neighbour insists I should seal them . The trouble is no matter what I use it darkens the wood , I have tried the lot and then have to sand it off . The last was a MARINE sealer … awful. Now I am thinking a wax ? help help , the wood is aging me

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Suheda January 1, 2017 12:34 pm

Hi , I recently bought A solid wood table which I believe an acacia wood. It has A natural look with A greyish brown finish very Soft And matte. But the problem is it observes the oil and that makes stains on the table (dropped A little olive oil during breakfast ) What kind of finishing or protector I can apply without making it look shiny or much of A color change? Thank you. I can send picts too

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Jeanne Stewart January 16, 2017 2:45 pm

HI
I’m an artist who has recently started working with pyrographics (wood burning). I just complete a piece on pine plywood. Its a female nude and to retain the super light color I need a finish that will A) have NO change in color and b) no shine. In fact I would love to get something that will be the closest to skin texture/ luster. I thought of leaving the background raw and the figure finished , to give it a slight emphasis.
Since it’s a flat wall piece I don’t need “protection” per say.

I like your suggestion about Sherwin Williams CAB-acrylic lacquer. Would that be better than a wax? And if not, what kind of wax?
Any other advice or suggestions?

Reply
- Beth November 20, 2023 2:04 pm
  
  Did you eventually find a finish that you liked? Can you share? I am also looking for a product you described perfectly.
  
  Reply
Julie Bonebrake January 27, 2017 9:39 am

I am refinishing a kitchen table and will be painting it (probably chalk paint or milk paint), then applying decals to it in the center and around the edges. I want to seal it with something to protect the decals as well as the paint from food and washing it off after meals. I want something that will not damage or cause the decals to “run” or dissolve when I put it on. What would be the best product to use for this situation?

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Doug February 26, 2017 2:12 pm

I recently cut down a laurel oak tree and split the trunk in half to make benches. I want to keep the natural look of the wood as close to Mother Nature as possible given that it has a beautiful colors tones and grain pattern…any suggestions on the best sealer? The bench will be placed outside and needs to endure the elements of south Florida.
Thanks for any advise you can pass my way.
Doug

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Robert March 21, 2017 11:26 am

There have been at least 3 people asking how to keep the raw reclaimed wood from getting a wet dark look when polyurethane is applied directly on the wood. The answers are always to use water-base poly. The problem is the poly is wet and when it soaks into the wood it darkens it taking away the natural appeal of the wood and making it looked stained and more formal. In my case sanding isn’t an option because I want the wood to look exactly as it is, rustic and recycled. Is there a way to seal the wood without effecting it’s appearance so that when you apply the poly it doesn’t soak into the wood changing it’s appearance?

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Timothy Rempel March 24, 2017 11:46 am

Guys
i’m trying to find a way to do a durable matt finish on resawn and smooth wood for kitchens. European high end casework manufactuerers like Boffi and Bulthaupt have been using some kind of conversion polyeurethane and I recently saw American manufacturer Henrybuilt – which uses a matt polyeurethan finish which is applied in a spray booth under special conditions possibly involving warm air to cure …
Any ideas on products out there that of this kind … lots of

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Rainey April 2, 2017 9:23 am

I have a very old, barn style table with deep cracks throughout the table top and legs. It can get splintery and hard to clean. I’m curious if I pour resin on top of it and let it dry will it still keep the look of the wood and cracks but make it easy to clean and no splinters? What are the best suggestions? Any advice is appreciated. Thanks

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Caralynn Williams August 20, 2017 9:46 pm

I need advice. We need to refinish out wide plank white pine floors. I want to have a floor that looks a couple of hundred years old, so scratches do not bother me. I don’t like the smooth slippery floors we have now that are covered in numerous coats of tung oil. Is there any finish product that will let the feel of the wood through? Should I have the floors hand planed and then stained? Thank you

Reply
- Marc Spagnuolo August 21, 2017 8:59 am
  
  If your old floor is truly finished with tung oil, I’m surprised it feels smooth and slippery. True pure tung oil is just an oil and the wood texture will show through. The smoothness you describe sounds like a varnish-containing product. So my suggestion would be to look into some sort of oil. Rubio Monocoat is a popular option for floors these days.
  
  Reply
Julie M September 8, 2017 2:09 am

Hi, I was searching online how to preserve the look of old greyed timbers & came across a site that said to use Renaissance Microcrystalline Wax as that was the only thing they found that didn’t ruin the grey patina of aged wood.

It was developed originally in Britain for museum preservation specialists. I found it on ebay here in Australia & it appears it’s available worldwide. It will not change the colour of the wood they say as it sits on the surface & doesn’t soak in, it also has a different finish from normal wax & won’t show fingerprints etc when dry – I figured it was worth a try on some raw aged furniture I bought that I want to retain that weatherworn look on.

May be useful info for some of you on here but a bit costly for large areas like floors I would think.

Reply
Aimee D. November 19, 2017 6:27 am

I’ve used Renaissance Wax before, it changes the color of whatever surface you put it on… and it’s SUPER expensive. It’s not a good option for raw wood if you want a lighter, natural look.

Reply
Jessica July 1, 2018 9:18 am

I just had a table top built out of long leaf pine reclaimed rafters with circle sawn markings. I’m looking for a way to “seal” it but not turn it red. I was going to attempt waxing but worried it would clump in the saw marks.

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- Marc Spagnuolo July 3, 2018 5:22 am
  
  I would probably apply some sort of water-based poly. That will seal it up and shouldn’t change the color at all.
  
  Reply
Claire July 9, 2018 4:07 pm

am working on a Hackberry table top and don’t want to have the color and graining changed at all…..any suggestions for that particular kind of wood

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- Daniel March 2, 2019 5:12 pm
  
  I have used Hackberry (sugarberry) on several projects. To keep it as light and natural as possible I useda product by Fabulon called Pryme. I think it is still available but hard to find , It is expensive to ship, because of its VOCs. I think it is either a lacquer of a shellac base. Shellac has a short shelf life but the Pryme l have left has been used over a ten year period an still dries but not as quickly as it did when new. It is great finish, Fabulon was used years ago as a finish for Gym floors.
  
  Reply
julie July 13, 2018 4:47 am

I am making 9 wooden signs for a friend. Each one has some natural wood showing along with partial paint and vinyl images. Do I need to seal the signs?

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Pam September 5, 2018 5:30 am

Hi, I bought a new semi inexpensive table to use as a island plus eating table. After
I realized that it would need a protective coat of something due to 5 young grandsons. Someone told me of a mate varnish…I put 3 coats on the benches… It looks exactly the same. (I think it’s the wrong vanish) There is no way its going to protect it. The table may be part veener. Love the look but don’t want to worry about every water drop or occasional toy banging. Any suggestions on something easy to put on there but durable. Thank you

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Laura November 12, 2018 9:06 am

We just put up reclaimed barn wood in our kitchen as a back splash this weekend. I used Minwax polycrylic to seal it and it definitely darkened the colors. I had a nice variation of light and dark prior to sealing it and now I’ve lost most of the lighter colors (sad face). I don’t want to put another coat of the poly on as I don’t want it to get any darker. Is there anything I can put on the lighter pieces to get them back closer to original color?

Reply
Taryn Miron December 28, 2018 10:23 am

We have put fresh pine on some walls and ceiling in our summer camp. I want to preserve the fresh raw colour. Can you suggest a product that is suitable for the project. The advice I’ve read here has been directed at furniture projects.

Reply
- Marc Spagnuolo December 29, 2018 8:20 am
  
  There are only a few finishes that will not change the color of wood. The most common one is water-based poly. Be sure to test on an inconspicuous area before committing to the entire project.
  
  Reply
Jan Jennings January 5, 2019 9:22 am

What you need to keep the wood the same colour is an impregnator. Depending on the make of course, they will protect the wood and not change the colour. Don’t use the usual varnishes, oils, waxes etc.

Reply
JIM Cummings March 1, 2019 9:55 am

I have finished the inside of a Cottage with fresh milled 1×6 T&G spruce. Want the Bathroom waterproofed without changing the color of the wood if at all possible. Any suggestions??

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Joseph March 3, 2019 10:41 am

I have a small clock taken for a 12 cylinder Cadillac many years ago probably in the 1940s. It’s mounted in a piece of wood measuring 8 3/4″(L) x 1 1/2″ (W) x 3 1/4″(H) that was crafted in a small Sine Wave form and left a natural finish. It developed 2 hairline cracks.
After reading all the above posts I have surmised from Marc’s posts that the Sherwin’s water white lacquers are probably my best option to maintain the as near natural look as possible. However I will talk with the people at Sherwin Williams and get their input and try a sample of a piece of wood before using it on the clock wood.My question is what product can I use in the hairline cracks that will work to glue or bond the wood together if I clamp it and look natural when it dries ?
This is a Keepsake for me that was made by my Dad who’s passed away years ago now so I want to preserve it as natural as possible.
Grateful for any advice offered.
He and my Mother’s Brother also made a complete set of Bedroom furniture; Poster bed, Dresser, 2 Chest of Drawers , small bedroom table with all matching designed furniture out of the same type wood which was to be used for my parents when they married.

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- Fanny August 24, 2019 8:03 pm
  
  Hi Joseph
  I have had success using sawdust from original wood, which you didn’t mention. If you don’t know what kind of wood it was just ask an expert. The sawdust will need to be mixed with wood glue, brand optional.
  If the cracks are truly hairline, force the glue in, then the sawdust, leaving a slight bulging level on top to sand later, and for retraction as the glue dries. If you miss any glue wipe-ups they can be sanded off later as well.
  Hope this helps you.
  
  Reply
Margaret May 7, 2019 3:31 pm

I recently finished new white pine kitchen cabinets. I too wanted as close to natural as possible. I used Mimwax Pickled Oak stain, which is a white color, and brush on semi gloss lacquer. Looks terrific. Just like it came from the cabinet shop. No yellow at all.Satin doesn’t leave much shine.m

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- s May 24, 2020 9:54 pm
  
  Hi Margaret – can you show pictures!?
  
  Reply
- Jessie November 17, 2020 5:07 pm
  
  I’m new to this staining and sealing wood process, so when you said you brushed on a semi gloss lacquer, what is that exactly? Can you provide the name of the lacquer you used?
  
  Reply
Deanna August 3, 2019 8:31 am

New inquiry – I’m putting up reclaimed antique white oak open kitchen shelves and I’d prefer to put absolutely nothing on the wood and leave them 100% natural to guarantee their color remains the same save for wear and tear over future years. Has anyone done this? I understand there will be impacts from the stove, I suppose, but I just flat out don’t want to finish them. Thoughts? Thanks! -Deanna

Reply
- Marc Spagnuolo August 3, 2019 11:02 am
  
  Then don’t finish them. :) White oak is a durable wood species and unless you have it right over the stove where it might get some grease splatter on it, it’s unlikely you’ll have a problem leaving them unfinished.
  
  Reply
  - Johnna Cumbee December 5, 2021 6:55 pm
    
    Hi Marc, I have old Knotty pine that has aged and darkened over the years. I have sanded it and I love the look of the natural wood. Do I have to seal it or can I leave it like it is since most things change the color? If I do have to seal it, I was told that Minwax Polycrylic top coat won’t change color. It’s water based and it has a milky look. I just want the wood to stay light. Thanks for any help.
    
    Reply
    - Marc Spagnuolo December 5, 2021 11:08 pm
      
      If it’s an interior piece and you don’t anticipate it making contact with anything that might stain it, you can leave it raw. But it certainly never hurts to have at least some kind of protective coating over furniture pieces. Generally speaking, any water-based topcoat will not add much in the way of color or character.
Diane Drake March 5, 2020 11:53 am

We have ash-paneled walls in our great room that previously had some sort of light beige antique wash that yellowed over the last 35-40 years. (Our contractor says ash; looks like oak to me/)

We have sanded it off and LOVE the natural look and want to keep it without darkening the finish. Reading this article/comments it sounds like Sherwin Willams CAB-acrylic is the best product. However, wanted to see if there were any recent recommendations or new products on the market.

We tried the Minwax pickled oak and it was way too dark and just natural Minwax poly which was also too dark. A water-based whitewash looked better, but really hate to go down that path as the area is so large and it will be difficult to keep a uniform spread with the white wash – potential problem with it drying unevenly before it can be wiped off. In fact, the instructions specifically say not to use on floors because large areas are too hard to keep even. This isn’t floors, but some panels are about 5 x 7.

Just need the best product to NOT darken wood! Help/suggestions are appreciated.

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- Marc Spagnuolo March 6, 2020 8:49 am
  
  Honestly sounds like any water-based finish will do the trick. Most water-based finishes bring no color to the wood, so it remains the natural color even after several coats are applied. You can apply it by brush or by spray.
  
  Reply
  - Antoinette Moat June 1, 2020 11:49 am
    
    I have a front door which has just been stripped. I’m waiting for someone who may be able to identify the wood, which is fairly hard and heavy, not oak, but at the moment it is a lovely pale natural colour. Clearly any vanish or oil will darken it. The wind and rain do come that side of the house, straight past up the street, though it is set back in a small porch. I realty don’t want to change the colour or quality of this wood and you have not really dealt with wood outside. Does anyone think that Sherwin Williams CAB-acrylic lacquer would be any good, not I know protective for outside. I am in the UK and my not be able to get it.
    Thanks
    
    Reply
    - Marc Spagnuolo June 1, 2020 1:19 pm
      
      You might look into a water-based exterior finish like General Finishes Exterior 450. Shouldn’t add much in the way of color to the wood.
Brandon June 2, 2020 8:48 pm

Im building a dining table out of rustic maple boards for top…i love the natural finish after sanding it down..has a few areas that look rough sawn too…whats your advice to keep it naturally looking….water based…lacquer…wax????

Reply
- Marc Spagnuolo June 3, 2020 9:38 am
  
  If you want a true “natural” look with no amber or yellow coloring, try water-based materials.
  
  Reply
Diane August 15, 2020 5:28 pm

I am getting ready to apply finish to an oak burl inlay table. It’s down to bare wood and my goal is to avoid any orange or yellow color. The finished table will get a lot of sun through the windows. One site recommended Modern Masters Dead Flat Varnish. They used it as base coat and then applied water based polyurethane as final coat. Seemed to preserve the raw wood color. Has anybody worked with this product or have advice?

Reply
Amanda August 22, 2020 2:06 pm

Could you recommend a product I could use to seal/protect a wood project I made. It will be outside with no protection. It’s cedar and pine wood with oils based stain on it. I’m running into the problem that if it’s true a clear sealant the application states it has to be bare wood for the sealer to adhere to it.
I tried the marine spar but it’s way way to shiny. I’m wanting it to stay as matte as possible. I need the sealant to not have a tint to it or a stain, as it’s already stain. I know poly isn’t really waterproof it’s only water resistant. Since it’s going to be used as a planter with my house numbers on it, it will see UV sunlight, and all 4 seasons of weather. Any suggestions I would appreciate it so much.

Reply
- Marc Spagnuolo August 23, 2020 7:32 am
  
  Honestly if pine is involved, I’d plan on replacing the planter at some point in the near future. Pine will not be happy in those conditions. But you might look into a product called Epifanes. They make a Matte version.
  
  Reply
  - Dustin September 4, 2020 8:26 am
    
    Any thoughts on a flat poly? I used some on a rough cedar wall. The customer wanted to leave it. They liked the original look. I forgot what product I used at the time. It was a flat poly that I know…lol. it didn’t change the color or even look like i put anything on it according to the customer and myself. I ended up doing 2 coats of the flat poly. I wanted some kind of protection. The wall is in a hallway leading to the basement from outside. It gets an array of temps and whatnot. It’s been 6 years now and the wall still looks new.
    
    Reply
    - Marc Spagnuolo September 4, 2020 9:04 am
      
      As long as it looks the way you want it to look, it’s the right finish. :)
Kathy November 11, 2020 7:39 am

Hi, I am redoing my staircase and currently sanding out all the stain. Falling in love with the raw matte finish so I am going to looking into three finishes mentioned in these posts. Bona floor finish in natural (flat), Modern Masters Dead Flat varnish and Renaissance Microcrystalline Wax. I am having the carpet made in India which is a very bold floral pattern so want to keep the warmth of the matte red oak. I will post once I know which one worked.

Reply
- Dean Aronson January 9, 2021 8:39 am
  
  Hi Kathy, have you finished your project? Did you use the wax overtop the Modern Masters? How do you like it?
  I am building some walnut furniture and am seriously considering using 2 coats of the Dead Flat Varnish
  
  Reply
  - Sammy Joe January 12, 2021 12:39 am
    
    I’ve built a number of walnut pieces, and I’ve settled on a decent method to get the beauty of an oil finish with the matte finish of a water-based poly.
    If you don’t want the deep colors oil brings out, skip the first step, but my go-to method is to do an initial coat of formby’s tung oil finish (can be purchased at Lowes). You could also use Boiled Linseed oil but note that the whites in the walnut will be more yellow than what tung would do (which isn’t a bad thing, just personal preference). This allows the oil to bring out the character of the walnut but doesn’t give any sheen to the wood.
    You have to let the oil-finish dry for at least two days before applying a water-based top coat (otherwise it will cloud up), but then you can apply General Finishes High Performance Water-Based Flat over the tung oil finish. I usually do at least 3 layers (minimum 2 hours drying between applications). I’ve had some of this furniture in heavy use (coffee table) for over 4 years and they still look flawless when clean.
    
    Reply
Ben Player January 18, 2021 1:12 am

Hi guys,
I have a bunch of salvaged Douglas Fur over in Australia and couldn’t find a solution to finish it. I wanted the colour and texture to be as close to natural as I could find, but wanted a sealer to stop it soaking up stains. So I followed the recommendation from Karen Malony and purchased the Modern Masters Dead Flat Varnish and it came up beautifully. Two coats and barely noticeable, and also rejects water when tested. Best finish I have used. Thank you Karen.
If anyone would like a photo of comparisons of Raw, Modern Masters, Candle Wax, liquid wax, liquid soap, pure soap, organ oil and tinted oil, please send me an email on benzebedeeplayer@gmail.com and I will forward an image.
Thanks for the tips guys!

Ben

Reply
Judy Bramson February 7, 2021 11:03 pm

Hello-
We are having a millworker make rift cut oak cabinets and woudl like to keep the natural wood color. I’ve read all the thread and am wondering if you could recommend one or two products.

Reply
- Marc Spagnuolo February 8, 2021 7:36 am
  
  Aside from the finish recommended in the article, you can try just about any water-based finish out there. I’ve used General Finishes High Performance many times and it offers a decent looking finish that doesn’t add much color.
  
  Reply
Mike S February 24, 2021 12:40 pm

I actually want my wood to yellow in order to match some older wood. Should I use shellac to eat the yellow tone?

Reply
- Marc Spagnuolo February 24, 2021 1:07 pm
  
  Yeah that could do the trick. There are different colors of shellac as well so keep that in mind. That can greatly influence the color on the wood.
  
  Reply
Melanie Willebrand May 22, 2021 7:08 pm

Hello. I am building a toy box, for my son, using scrap 6″ cedar fence pickets. Being that we like the rough look of the cedar pickets, I’m not wanting sand them. Is there anything I can use in order to keep the rough look but also be able to prevent him from getting splinters?

Reply
- Marc Spagnuolo May 24, 2021 10:25 am
  
  Well, not really. A rough appearance goes hand in hand with physically rough-feeling wood. So the best you can do is sand, but sand lightly. Try to find the splinters and sand them down. Hit all corners and edges so they have a slight roundover. You can probably make it less dangerous while still maintaining most of the rough appearance.
  
  Reply
Linda V October 1, 2021 10:37 pm

Hi Marc,
Thanks for all the great info. I recently finished my fireplace with reclaimed teak wood that has been both stained and finished with a powder coating. I love the color and have tried both minwax and other clear water based seals. They changed the color but also seemed to erase part of the powder coating.I’m wondering if spraying would be better than brushing which is what I did. Have no idea if that would salvage the powdered coating. Also wondering if Teak would darkens more than other wood when sealed and maybe that’s the problem.

Reply
- Marc Spagnuolo October 4, 2021 9:04 am
  
  You’re a little outside of my wheelhouse as I don’t even know what a powder coating is. Sorry Linda.
  
  Reply
Isaac Standifird October 3, 2021 11:52 am

I am working with some log slabs that will have images burned into them, some of the burning light and some heavy lettering. Is there a finish that will not darken the wood. I tried epoxy, partly to hold the bark on the edges, that completely blocked out the light images and ruined my slab. I believe polyuretane will do much the same. Is there a finish that won’t sink in and darken the wood? Protection is not a concerna as these are ornamental not used in any way but display.

Reply
- Marc Spagnuolo October 4, 2021 9:03 am
  
  Probably a water-based finish. They generally don’t yellow over time and keep the wood looking more “natural”
  
  Reply
anthony rixo October 31, 2021 8:18 am

Hello, I have a small solid oak chair from the 50’s that was once (decades ago) stained darker and then for the most of its life had potted plants sat on it. There’s practically no finish left on it, almost like raw grey wood, from years of water damage. The dark stain can be seen mostly in the grain. My goal is to remove all water damage, all the old dark stain WITHOUT sanding it. I really don’t like the look of freshly stained and sanded brand new furniture so would like to get the chair to a place where it’s protected without looking wet/darker. Is there any sort of lacquer that doesnt penetrate the wood? I’d like it to look like the wood would had it lived it’s entire life without being refinished/ water damaged. Is there a way to take it back to the natural light oak and add 60 years of real patina/shine? Also not after a ‘raw’ wood look as if it was made out of an old barn door. I’ve seen a lot of european mid century furnture that has what seems like a hard lacquered shell, still retaining the woods natural finish and only warming it up a small amount without looking stained or wet.. what is this? sorry for the wordy post. thanks!

Reply
Linda J December 22, 2021 11:29 am

To Anthony Rixo:

About 30 years ago, I had the misfortune of hiring a person who left many wet objects on my not-yet-finished red oak floors. The blackened stains, I was told by a floor finisher, were permanent.

A co-worker told me ‘a decent paint store’ should have Oxalic Acid. I probably scrubbed and rinsed (and dried) the stains three or four times, but it worked. Once finished, there wasn’t the slightest suggestion that there was ever any discoloration. The professional floor finisher called me a few months later and asked how I did this . . . so his son could do the same in his own house. Here is a link that speaks directly to using Oxalic Acid Cleaner: https://corecheminc.com/cleani.....d-to-know/. Good luck with your project.

Reply
Danielle E Velasco September 14, 2022 6:06 pm

Hello,
I am a designer working on an interior project and we have Teak floors going in the primary bed and bathroom. My client is interested in installing them unfinished, because she loves the look and feel and color of the teak unfinished. Everyone thinks this is a horrible idea as in the bathroom, the floors will get wet and then discolor and change in texture and eventually splinter.
Client is fine with the discoloration, but I am worried about the texture and splintering. We had one sample made with Osmo Extra Matte (https://www.waneandflitch.com/.....tte-finish)
but it still ambers the wood because it is an oil finish.
Do you have any recommendations for a finish that will not change the wood much? Would the Sherwin Williams CAB leave a white-ish residue on teak. From reading through the above comments, it seems like it is a great finish for lighter woods?
Appreciate any info and help!

Reply
- Marc Spagnuolo September 15, 2022 7:43 am
  
  I’ve never seen that stuff leave a white residue so if you can find the product, it’s worth giving a shot. But it will still cause the wood to look “finished” which the client might still interpret that negatively. Just have to test. You might also look into water-basaed materials. Finally, if the client is insistent and doesn’t like any of the finishes, consider a simple wax application.
  
  Reply
  - Danielle E Velasco September 15, 2022 5:21 pm
    
    Thanks so much Marc, will order the Sherwin Williams stuff and give it a shot!
    
    Reply
Liisa Vatanen October 8, 2022 1:19 pm

Hi! What finnish would you recommend on white cedar ceiling in shower room? It is open shower room/bath room, tile floor with heating and a fan in the ceiling. I would prefer the wood look as natural as possible. Thank you for your help!

Reply
Jewel Briggs November 2, 2022 2:39 pm

I’m looking to “protect my new unfinished alderwood double front doors”. There is a roof on the front porch but the doors will have some sun & moisture exposure. I like the matte finish and prefer not the change the color. I am in Tennessee so we do experience all seasons of weather.
Any suggestions???

Reply
- Marc Spagnuolo November 3, 2022 10:54 am
  
  This video might help. https://thewoodwhisperer.com/v.....he-hinges/
  
  Reply
Sandra Cranswick September 29, 2023 11:51 pm

This was really interesting reading. My dad was a wonderful woodworker, making many beautiful things for the home which he and my mother built and which I sadly had to sell. Every room had wall to wall cabinets and closets, all of different woods – birch, mahogany, knotty pine, maple, etc. Oak floors throughout. What a house! I do have some cherry bookcases and a grandmother’s clock in cherry and a number of smaller tables etc. which he crafted. I am a sculptor, who has collected many “interesting” pieces of wood, many of which I would like to keep natural, but protect from bugs, decay, water damage,etc. I was wondering if just using a wood hardener would work? For interior use mostly, but I have a couple of big outdoor pieces that I’d like to protect from decay…Any ideas?

Reply
MaryBeth Stone November 2, 2023 5:00 pm

I have a large walnut (root stump)? slab, likely claro walnut. It is highly figured, but has an overall purplish-brown tone. I put 2 light coats of BLO which darkened the color.
Do I need sand off the BLO finish so the walnut can “fade”? How long does “fading” take.
I prefer the warm amberish walnut colors. Hmmm!

Reply
F. Paul DeGenova February 5, 2024 2:57 pm

Marc
I’m finishing and Ash table top that I expect to take a lot of wear and tear. I do not like the Amber look but I want something protective so I wanted an oil. Water locks urethane says no hammering but I got some and tested it and it does Amber. any suggestions for Amber and Goode wear and tear? Do you have any thoughts on adding small amounts of white stain to the oil to keep the light colored look?

Reply
- Marc Spagnuolo February 6, 2024 9:01 am
  
  I think you might be stuck with water-based for an application like this. Perhaps something like General Finishes High Performance. While adding some kind of white pigment might help, that would take some experimentation to get right. And who knows how it might behave over time.
  
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