Zero Tools and $1000
March 29, 2007 | Filed Under Blog
Garrett over at the Tool Crib Blog recently posed a very cool hypothetical question. If you have zero tools and $1,000 to spend on tools, which would they be and why? And you can’t buy any more tools for a year. Well, one thing this exercise taught me is how little $1000 is in the world of power tools. One thing I have learned through experience is to buy the right tool the first time. So with a $1000 budget, I started adding items to my cart on Amazon.com and found myself at $750 before I even looked at a table saw. YIKES!
Now obviously selecting different brands would be the key to getting the prices down. Most of the tools I selected were from Bosch. But with $1000, I might need to think a bit differently. Craftsman and Black and Decker come to mind. But the real question is, will this $1000 budget be the only tool purchase we ever make, or is it just our budget for this year. If I can shop for more tools next year, I would rather buy the better tools and just get fewer of them. Then I would just suffer until I can make another tool purchase next year. There is nothing worse than buying a cheap tool to save money, it breaks, and then you wind up buying the tool you should have bought the first time. Ironically this usually makes your grand total expenditure much more than if you just bought the right tool in the first place. So I would start by searching for used/reconditioned equipment. You can save a lot of money that way. But these prices were all I could find on Amazon:
Dewalt DW618PK Plunge and Fixed Base VS Router Kit- A versatile router that will do just about everything. Fixed base and plunge base as well as 1/4″ and 1/2″ collets ($225)
Bosch 1590EVSK Jigsaw- This would essentially be my bandsaw substitute. ($160)
Bosch 33614-RT 14.4 Volt Cordless Drill/Driver Kit- You always need a good drill ($180)
Bosch 1295DVSK 5-Inch Random Orbit Sander- Essential for good finish preparation ($70)
Basic Set of Chisels and Block Plane- Probably Marples Chisels and a simple Stanley Block Plane ($45)
So that’s $680 total so far. I would use the rest of the money to buy the best tablesaw I could afford. But with only $320 left, I would need to back down on several of these tools to less expensive brands in order to get the quality I am looking for in the table saw. Man this is a hard exercise. But you get the idea. I would be curious to hear what tools you guys consider to be “essential”.
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Come on … it can’t be done. I had $1800 last spring to spend so I went to Grizzly and bought a 8″ Jointer, 14″ BS, Bench top drill press, and a tenon jig. Oh and I think I snuck a 12 inch planer in there with “birthday” money. I already had a table saw … thank God. This is not a cheap hobby. Of course now I can’t afford wood!
If we’re talking the basic tools to make furniture from rough-cut lumber, then my choices for $1000 would include the following:
-Bandsaw
-Router
-Cordless drill/driver
-Bench planes #4,5, and 7 (I got old #’s 3, 4 and 5 Bailey-type Stanley planes on eBay and replacement blades for less than the cost of one new Lie-Nielsen)
Chisels
Scrapers
Clamps
Why not buy a 50 dollar corded drill, if you’re on a budget, and put the savings towards a table saw. If you can never spend any more money, you should stay away from anything that will require an expensive battery purchase in the future.
David
I’m just starting out and need the basics. My first question that comes to my mind with the tools above is, what is your strategy for milling boards from rough lumber. I’m seriously considering a jointer and planer, maybe even before a table saw, and just using a circ saw and a “sawboard” to keep it straight.
Would you use the router for joinery? I notice you have no planes in the list other than the small block plane, so I’m thinking you must be figuring on using the router with the table saw to get lumber flat and square.
Very timely article for me. Would appreciate others’ views also as I chart my tool-buying course (I have good 12″ CMS, circ saw, crappy jig saw, drill, PC 690 router, and a couple of chisels). I’m lucky though because a close-by friend has everything, and an open-garage door policy. Can’t beat that.
Thanks,
Scott in Houston
I really like that you chose only quality power tools like Bosch and DeWalt. Quality tools are expensive, but I really believe in buying the best you can afford. It pays off in the long run. (I could go off on a truly epic rant about all the cheap tools I’ve had to use on the job, but that’s another topic.)
Apologies for the length of this, but I’m having the same quandry. I posted this on a few of the boards, and I’d like to hear your thoughts:
I just got my bonus at work and while I’m saving most of it, I’m going to spend some of it on some tools . My quandry is, what to get? Here are some of my thoughts and a list of what I have. After that, I’ll open it up to y’all for your thoughts.
I’m setting up my garage workshop, and I need shop cabinets, so I was planning on spending some money on some plywood to build them. I have also seen the new Steel City tablesaw model 35601 on which SC has a nice price ($899) and a nice rebate ($100 off). I’m also considering some planes from Lie-Nielsen (LA block and #4 1/2 smoother). I suppose I could also get some of the new Jet parallel clamps everyone’s raving about.
I have the following power tools:
Ryobi 10in contractor’s table saw
Ridgid 10in miter saw
B&D 18V cordless drill
Milwaukee corded drill
Milwaukee circular saw
Craftsman jig saw
Porter Cable router
Porter Cable ROS
My only hand tools are:
Set of Marples chisels
A fair-to-decent Stanley block plane that I’ve had to tune the heck out of
2 western style hand saws
I’ve heard many of you say to buy the best tools you can afford, and also to buy tools for the projects at hand. Given that this will probably be my last substantial tool purchase for at least the next year, I would like to hear how y’all think I should spend some of my bonus.
Before I started making a tool list, I’d seriously consider what projects I would like to undertake this year. Setting up a woodworking shop from scratch including drywalling and running electrical for a bare bones garage like I did will take a couple months to plan and execute alone.
Frankly, $1,000 isn’t squat when it comes to the money it takes to set up a shop; however, its a start if you buy some of the tools that you’d eventually want in your arsenal-tools that you will still want to have around once you are set up. Before I set up my shop, I bought a good sliding miter saw, a router package with plunge and fixed base, a circular saw, a straight edge clamp to use as a guide for cutting plywood and sheet goods, and a cordless screwdriver. Those tools combined are over $1,000 but you get the idea. With those tools, I worked on my hands and knees in my unfinished garage with a single shop light for my first year and with those tools built my first workbench and various other things. Although I now have a fully furnished shop with all the large stationary power tools (DJ-20 jointer, unisaw with bies, 17″ bandsaw, shaper) I still use those tools I started off with. What you don’t want to do is buy a cheap table saw because that’s all you can afford. Better to buy good hand and handheld power tools that you will still want later than to buy a bunch of offshore junk that you will outgrow.
You guys all have really good points. What I learned from this whole thought process was how screwed I’d be with only $1000 to spend. And I also made the assumption that I would have to buy dressed lumber for the first year, since I couldnt imagine fitting a jointer and planer into that budget.
I also learned that I would rather do without certain tools until I could afford a decent one.
Hey Erik. You might want to start thinking about tools for dressing rough lumber (jointer and planer).
I would blow it all on hand tools myself.
Seems to be were I’m heading these days….you’ll still have to pry my bandsaw and my t/planer outta my cold dead hands!!!
Although a few Lie Nielsen planes would take care of a grand right quick!!!LOL!!!
I was reading an article recently that discussed the pros and cons of buying the best tools when it came to non-professional woodworkers. Although the article was a bit contradictory, I think some descretion when making your purchases based on your use is a good idea. There are a lot of good values out there for those of us who don’t rely on woodworking as our livelyhood and could stand to buy “sub-professional” tools. My Hitachi router kit so far has been very servicable and was over $50 less than the Bosch or PC. It also had very good reviews, although not quite on par with the higher end quality routers. Still, it rotates a bit well, is quieter than most routers based on testing and reviews, is variable speed, soft start, came with 1/4 and 1/2 collets, and a template guide set. By the time my dozen or so projects that I use it on every year catches up to me, the tecnology will be such that I will need to replace it for something better anyway. Let’s face it, those of us that love woodworking - whether pro or hobbist - are always looking to buy more tools or replace the ones we have despite how good the ones we have are working! How many of you who had older routers that worked well still bought new ones because of variable speed, soft start, multiple base options and the like? I guess my point is, the average hobbist can do well with quality mid priced tools because we just don’t have to work them out as much as those of you who are professionals. For someone just getting into woodworking, trying to set up a shop might take years depending on your budget if you only buy high end.
Just playing devil’s advocate here…
Hmmm. Assuming I would be interested in turning out quality work this may be a good opportunity to go back to the future and purchase really good hand tools. I bet with only $1000 you could still pick up quality crosscut, rip, and dovetail saws. A couple of good planes, a cabinet scraper and card scrapers would fit into the budget as well. Hammers, mallets and chisels as well as some clamps and measuring/marking tools would get you started. A person may find that by the time the year was over they had developed some pretty good basic skills and a level understanding of what working with wood is all about. Then the judicious purchasing of good power tools over time can begin - if needed.
With only 1k to spend I wouldn’t even begin to think stationary power tools, cost is just too great and if you are just starting out in this hobby it isn’t a start move. People change hobbies all the time for various reasons, why go big to start and decide it isn’t really what you like.
Assuming that your a homeowner you need a basic set of tools anyway, so instead of a TS I would go with a quality circ saw and a home made saw guides. A PC mag 324 is great place to start. So my list would be:
$140 PC 324Mag circ saw
$225 618PK router pack
$160 1590evsk Jigsaw
$70 1295 ROS
$40 Ryobi corded clutch drill
Total $635
Then using ebay or flea markets use $150 to pick up a No 5, small block plane, and a small chisel set.
New total $785
I would use the remailing $215 to buy clamps as necessary and acceories for the tools I have already purchased.
This methods does force you to use lumber that has already been dimensioned but you haven’t invest too much in the hobby yet because all of the above tools are really needed by everyone that owns a home in my opinion.
After that in order of importance I would buy stationary tools as budget allowed along these lines.
Contractor TS
Bechtop drill press
Jointer
Planer
My 2c…
A bit long winded, but I have a different take. What to buy and which to buy first all depends on where you are skill-wise and project-wise.
I started to buy tools about 2 1/2 years ago when I was approaching retirement, and have continued buying tools to help me on the next project. My initial purpose was to facilitate my handyman work (installing crown molding, building cornices, doing bathroom and kitchen mods, etc.) while thinking about maybe doing woodworking projects. My first “big” purchase was a low-end table saw — a Ryobi 3100 that was on sale and included a nice option package for free. Since I had never used a table saw in my life, it has served its purpose pretty well, although I can’t imagine what it is like to have a fence and miter gauge that you don’t have to coax into alignment.
I bought a Craftsman 10″ compound mitersaw with laser (again on sale for under $100). It, like the Ryobi table saw, is PRETTY good. And like the Ryobi, it would be nice if it cut perfectly square at all angles so you get perfect matchup with complemetary cuts.
I bought a Porter Cable router with set (1 head with 3 bases). I keep the fixed base mounted to the router table accessory on the table saw. This is very handy. I do hand-held routing with the D handle base or the plunge base.
I also bought some used, old tools (6″ jointer, 14″ band saw, drill press). Also bought a Ryobi 13″ planer 2 months ago.
In addition to my handyman projects, I have made a fireplace mantel and surround, two sets of built-in book cases including doors for the fireplace wall, and 2 nice little sofa/hall tables from rough-cut mahogany. Of course a nice shop vac collects saw dust.
What’s the point? I have most of the right power tools, but not necessarily the quality that I would like. Now that I have actually used all of the tools and built a few items for personal and family consumption, and have made many mistakes, I have learned the relative merits and demerits of each tool and what to use for what task. For example, there are decisions to make on whether to cut a chamfer on the router or on the table saw; or to square an edge on a jointer or using a sliding jig on the table saw.
I can now make better decisions on where to put my money on new and upscale tools — when I can afford them. For my money, the cheap drill press is adequate and will be way down the priority list. A better quality table saw is at the top of my list.
Regards.
Assuming that I had surfaced 3/4″ stock at my fingertips and did not have to deal with rough sawn lumber, the first purchase would be the Jet JWTS-10 Contractors saw (fitted with the included blade and slightly out of alignment miter guage) - $550. The table saw would cover cross-cuts/ripping/dados/joints/etc. I would then jump on the Porter Cable 7529 Plunge Router for $130 and the Dewalt 317 Jigsaw for $109 - these would cover most detailing that would need to be done. A couple Stanley Planes - block and #5 for roughtly $40 ea. A set of marples chisels for $42 and a misc collection of marking tools (i.e. engineers square, straight edge and tape measure) for $50. Grand total of $961. Hmmmmm - maybe $39 in coffee grounds to keep me awake while I hand plane that 36″ x 72″ table top????? Better yet - the balance would go to a couple sheets of MDF to make some jigs so I could maximize the small arsenal of tools. Nonetheless - $1000 does not go far!
I think the critical thing is to start with what you hope to accomplish and work backwards from there. If I had a thousand bucks to work with I’d seriously consider what I wanted to build.
The usual mix of “entertainment centers”, shelves and basic cut sheet goods furniture? I’d spend half of it on a good circular saw and a rail, either Festool (my personal choice) or the Hilti saw and the EZ Smart rails. Does almost everything the table saw will (takes a little more care on setups for narrow rips), but far safer, and way cheaper than doing a table saw safely (ie: SawStop or a Euroslider).
Then I’d concentrate on some high quality hand tools, a good plane or two, a few good hand saws, maybe a power drill, but more likely a brace and a few bits (for doweling things), and two good pipe/bar clamps.
If I were doing boxes or more fine woodworking I’d skip the circular saw altogether, get a good coping saw, a dovetail saw, a few good planes, a good chisel set, and start from there. Maybe spend $600 on tools and the rest on wood.
We have this notion that just because we have modern tools we must have them, but people were turning out beautiful work long before the latest and greatest battery powered hoozamerwatzit appeared on the shelves of the big box stores, and while it’s fantastic fun to have all of these tools sitting on our shelves, if we’re pursuing woodworking as a hobby, something to build stuff that makes visitors to our home go “wow”, we sometimes forget that all we really need is a hand saw and a whittling knife, and we can trade everything else for time.
Other than hande tools I use the drill press, band saw and miter saw the most of any of my tools. A good router and router table are also very valuable. With only $1000 many hard chaices have to be made. I agree with you buying good tools pays in the long run. I have replaces almost all of the tools I bought on the cheap.
You guys seem to assume that you have hand tools already; i thought the exercise was no tools and $1,000 dollars.
I would purchase all hand tools first of an excellent grade. And then a bench or table to use them on. And some type of storage to put them in.
Your first project will tell you what you are missing but you will still not have enough money.
I have a different take on this. I started learning woodworking about four years ago with first a circular saw and then a craftman bench saw of about 200 dollars. I built many things with it including a full kitchen. The thing is that learning and mastering this hobby or ours takes time and to start you don’t really need the big items. Of course now I upgraded to a nice contractor saw because I outgrew the previous one and I’m in the process of investing in serious dust collection.
I think we can all agree that 1K is not enough to have a decent shop but for a person starting with this hobby it’s better for at least the first 1 or 2 years to not invest in the larger must expensive items because as somebody already mentioned in this thread you don’t really know if you will really continue with it or it is just a fad. For starting 1K should be more than enough. On the other hand 1K for a serious hobbist is not enough.
Unfortunately My budget is less than $1000 I constantly have to make the decision on what tool to buy next and how long will it take to afford it. Its not that I’m really pore but I’m a mechanic as well so it ends up being torque wrench vs. hand plane?
Ive learned to live like this and split the funds pretty well. With the amount of media trying to sell you used and new things its not hard to find a good deal. Almost all my tools were less than an $100 and usually on sale. Cordless drill, router, jigsaw, sander, scroll saw, belt disc sander, drill press, drill, biscuit jointer and kreg jig. If I had to replace all of those tools in my shop it would be less than $1000 total spent. For my table saw and miter saw I both spent less than $200 and got the table saw used.
I think the best thing that you can get from an exercise like this is, would you use your tools as an excuse or would you still hold yourself to the same standards as a pro? I choose the latter.
Another thing that you should consider is what do I want my shop to do For someone that only does lath work $1000 could go a long way and still yield a productive shop same goes for carvers, inertia artist, and of course all those guys that have gone cross eyed doing fretwork.
Well I could keep rambling forever but its not my blog. Just remember to never let an obstacle become an excuse.
On behalf of Norm:
Your item today, about $1000 budget for a first set of tools, is a
question that frequently appears in woodworking discussion groups.
Most folks are advised more or less along the same lines as your
advice today.
You are correct in your advice about buying good tools that will
serve you for a long time.
The very first tool in my starter kit would be a good heavy-duty
router. Depending upon what the individual woodworker plans to do
that first year, and upon the type of shop space available, I might
vary the selection of the other tools. But with only $1000 in my
pocket, and no tools, I would definitely defer the table saw purchase
until I could afford a good contractor-style Delta or better, and a good fence.
1. A good electric drill is essential.
2. You need sanding tools (unless you are willing to do a lot of
hand sanding that first year), at least a random orbital one.
3. I would add a Dewalt surface planer as an essential item in my
first-year shop, but that is because of the type of work I like to do.
4. A good hand-held plane AND a good sharpening system are very useful.
5. A good set of chisels, too.
6. You need a good hand-held electric saw, to rough cut things.
7. You need good dust collection, so plan on getting a good wet-dry
shop vac, to keep things clean.
8. A good Japanese Dozuki (or two) for sure.
9. Did anyone say anything about router bits, yet? You need several
good ones, and they cost $$. (straight bits, round-overs, etc.)
During that first year, with limited tools, one should devote their
time and mind to learning how to make and use jigs (lots of jigs), to
do special tasks using the available tools. Run down to your local
B&N or Rockler store or Woodcraft store, have a cup of coffee and
browse through some of the books about woodworking jigs. Buy
whichever one(s) you find useful. You can do lots of things with a
good router and special home-built jigs.
Also, you might read up online about home-built router tables. You
need a good one, so devote time to making one, using the tools that
you have. [Mine is 1-1/2 inches thick, made of two layers of
3/4-inch Baltic Birch yellow-glued together, and with plastic
laminate on top and bottom, and edged with hardwood. I bought a
Rousseau insert, but there are several other good ones. The insert
usually has a template that can be used to guide the router while
cutting the opening in the table top.]
I would suggest going online and monitoring the craigslist tools
forum for used tools in the locale.
As budget allowed, in the next year(s), I would then get the table
saw, a jointer, a belt sander, a biscuit joiner, a miter saw, a drill
press, etc., and begin assembling a permanent dust collection system
in the shop area.
Keep up the good work,
Norm
I must say I got lucky when starting out I stumbled onto a silent auction were I picked up
a Shaper, Lathe, Belt/Disc sander, 6″ jointer,Band saw for $240 Some gave me A RAS, Table saw I acquired from my dad and I got a free work bench from the labs at a local University. I must say that when I walk into my shop I am the youngest thing in there but Some of the tools such as the Shaper is a 1937 craftsman will last me. My point being I didn’t see anybody mention taking your 1k to an action or estate sale.
Here’s my list:
Measuring & Layout ($35 total)
$0 Marking Guage (make own)
$10 Measuring Tape
$5 Good pencils and cheap sharpener
$10 One metal rule/straight edge
$10 One engineer’s square
To mill and dimension lumber and smooth it ($175 total)
$15 Used Stanley #4
$80 Used Stanley #7
$30 Used Stanley #9 1/2
$20 Set of scrapers
$30 Initial set of sand paper
To cut to dimensions including curved cuts ($170 total)
$120 Good jig saw
$20 Set of blades
$30 Used cross cut hand saw
Joinery ($175 total)
$55 6pc Set of Marple Chisels
$80 Corded Drill
$40 Basic set of Bits
Shaping ($325 total)
$225 Router
$100 Basic set of bits
Assembly ($120 total)
$120 Small set of clamps
Comes to $1,000 exactly
The next thing I would add would be a self-made router table.
How about a “good” circular saw and 50″ guide/clamp for now? Then you’ll possibly be able to do better later for a table saw, and these 2 items aren’t wasted money. You might even have enough left to get a router bit or some drill bits. David also made a good point about the corded drill for now.
Although $1000 isn’t enough for even a basic shop, it’s all relative. Most of us hobbists wouldn’t justify $1000 per stationary tool, but can do well for around $400 each. Portable or bench tools can get you in the ballpark, and some like Ridgid’s 13″ planer will be more than adequate for the average “non-pro” woodworker. It’s not just about buying the best, top shelf tools out there, but buying tools that will strike a balance between value and quality. My Hitachi router set is more than adequate for my sporatic needs, has gotten good reviews, turns a bit well, has a soft start, variable speed, very quiet as routers go, and came with 1/4 and 1/2 collets and a template guide set. It also came in at around 50% cheaper then the Bosch and PC, and for my needs suits me fine. For those of you who make your living building fine furniture, I wouldn’t expect anything less than the best. But for a weekend warrior like myself, value is really important - especially on a tight budget. My table saw is a Ryobi BT3100 - one that Ryobi got right. If you’re not familiar with it, it actually has such a cult following that there’s a web site dedicated to it. When it was still sold under the Ryobi name (now it’s a higher priced Craftsman model), you got a 13amp, 10″ TS with a rock solid and accurate fence and a modular sliding miter table and router table for $300. Yes, it’s not a high end cabinet or hybrid saw, but it cuts wood accurately and fits in my little shop.
I guess my point is that a $1000 budget could get you a lot more than you think for the average hobbist, provided your knowlege base is strong and your tools are quality.
Just playing Devil’s advocate, don’t eat me up too much :^)
oops - sorry for the semi-repeat of my earlier post. It had been a few hours and I didn’t sees it in here, so I figured it was lost. The thoughts are the same…
You do need to get quality tools, and buying new (as you discovered) is really very expensive. I would go to these sources (in order) for used tools. Sure, you will probably buy a few used duds, but over time you will learn when to turn something down, and I think you come away with a better understanding of how the tools work. But honestly when you buy new you will end up with some duds anyway.
1) Friends (borrowing, swapping, buying)
2) Craigslist, eBay, Newspaper Ads (you have to keep an eye out, but eventually those gold nuggets appear)
3) Auctions, Yard Sales (time consuming but likely to be a bargain)
4) My Local Woodworking Store (if you have one it’s a good idea to actually buy your tool there, not online because a) you want to support them and b) you don’t have to pay for shipping the darned thing when it breaks)
5) Amazon, Lee Valley, Grizzly, Google for other suppliers (as a last resort, or in the case when it does make sense to buy new)
The other thing is that maybe you don’t need to buy that 8″ jointer right away. How about a 6″ jointer on Craigslist for $200 and when you’re ready to get your 8″ jointer (if ever) then you sell that 6″ jointer on Craigslist and get your money back.
Thanks for a super blog
Mattias, Durham NC
The problem is the tool and machine makers know they have us by the “private parts” Once we are hooked as woodworkers. Its like drugs to a drug addict. We want more. As we begin to develop as woodworkers we learn some of our early tool purchases were totally garbage. With damaged egos we jump off the roof with both feet listening to the experts telling us “I told you so, didn’t I tell you not to make the same mistake I did!” And vow NEVER BUY CHEAP TOOLS AGAIN, (I think)
The bottom line, we woodworkers will at some point put our money on the table and buy the good stuff and pay the good stuff price! The tool and machine makers aren’t stupid! They will wait for us.
I’m thinking about giving my $1000.00 to charity and take up basket weaving. This topic is making my ears hurt.
Marc,
I’d buy a plane ticket to Arizona and hire you to teach me for a week and use all your tools!
Posting for Bob.
I have to disagree with your idea of only buying the best tools to some extent. I am 65 years old and I have always had used and cheap tools. As a school teacher it was the best I could do.
True, I just bought a Delta table saw with a big fence ($600), and that’s the second expensive tool I ever had. I went through 3 cheap table saws over the years. The first was my DeWalt 12.5″ planer ($400). I had a Sears planer ($350) before that, and it did a good job for many years before it melted. I use cherry and red oak primarily, and I buy it raw in the mountains, so I need to be able to rip and plane tough wood with good tools.
But, I have an old Black and Decker band saw, a Harbor Freight jointer, a Harbor Freight biscuit cutter, a Harbor Freight plunge router, a $75 router table … you get the idea. The difference between my best ($60) Sears 18v portable drill and my worst $15 18v Chinese portable drill is obvious, but not such that I am prevented from doing the job of drilling or driving.
I have learned some hard lessons. I have three $50 jigsaws. The bases all are bent and they don’t saw straight up and down, and I wish I had one $150 jigsaw that didn’t bend so badly when I drop it on my shop floor…..which seems inevitable. I wish I had a bigger bandsaw.
My shop is no WoodWhisperer. I have 24 square feet and every tool known to man — although cheap for the most — part collected over the years. I love it, and I am still learning. My work is rough compared to the WoodWhisperer — in fact there’s no comparison. I am just now starting furniture made from red oak, and it’s really difficult because of the way the wood warps and cups and moves and soaks up the varnish and becomes rough to the touch and need to be re-sanded or doors even re-built …. thank God I love doing this stuff or I would get frustrated. But it’s my lack of skill that frustrates me, not my cheap tools.
Bob
Posted for James:
I would start with the saw.. you are dead without one. Agood contractor saw (delta) would be a good choice.
the drill is next of importance I am a strong fan of bosch but in this case I would go to hitachi (about 80 bucks) a jig saw is good but if you do not have the bucks I would go to a Japanese hand saw, they are really great. Instead of the expensive orbital sander I would recommend the makita or delta quarter sheet.
if all else fails use your kids piggy bank
james
[...] I asked this hypothetical question of The Wood Whisperer Marc Spagnuolo and he answered here: Zero Tools and $1000. [...]
In case anyone’s interested - Rockler is having a sale on the 50″ Jet parrallel clamps:
2 for $49.99. It is indeed a great clamp and at a price that’s hard to beat.
Instead of a cheap table saw I would purchase a good quality skill saw that was lightweight and felt good in my grip. I would add a set of EZ Edge guides to make cutting up sheet goods easy. Oh, a really good carbide blade would be added also. Don’t forget the Starrett square and the $320 is gone!
Woodworking, Golf, and Boating all have something in common. They are all hobbies that can become money pits if you aren’t careful. The thing is that, contrary to common believe, spending more money on your hobby will not guarantee any better success. Believe me when I tell you that this comes from personal experience. I have a great set of clubs and my game is still pretty pathetic. Fortunately, I have a good time anyway.
In regards to woodworking, I’m going to say something that might shock you. You can live without a table saw. Furthermore, you can live without a jointer and a planer too. So how can I make a statement like that? Does this come from personal experience too? No, not really; my new table saw is about the same size and weight of a 1970 Buick. The fact is that some of the finest furniture that was ever created was made before any of these tools existed. I know what you are going to say, yea sure, but it must have taken months to finish a single project. Actually, it turns out they were often very efficient and it is believed that many modern shops would have a difficult time keeping up with them if compared side by side.
If you truly want to become a good woodworker, one of the first things that you need to do is learn more about it. That means: books, videos, magazines, and classes. I read about woodworking all the time and still thirst for more knowledge. If you are looking to start purchasing tools, I like Norm’s list, except he forgot the bandsaw which he uses all the time.
Remember, a sign of a good woodworker is the quality of their work and the skills it took to create it. It isn’t in the quality of the tools in their shop.
Posted for Bill:
I think you have the right idea, but take it a little further.
As a replacement for the bandsaw, a good jigsaw could suffice with a variety of blades.
A Bosch ($150) would be my selection, if I were to buy one today.
As a replacement for a drill press, a good (cordless not required) drill would work.
Maybe the Milwaukee Magnum Drill ($100):
http://www.amazon.com/Milwauke.....038;sr=1-2
And maybe a drill guide ($80), something like the following :
http://www.amazon.com/General-.....038;sr=8-2
A replacement for the table saw, would be a good circular saw. This is the idea Festool uses, and the idea I started with many years ago.
A year ago I replaced my B&D with this Milwaukee saw ($140) that has lots of power and is very easy to adjust:
http://www.westerntool.com/product.htm?pid=455094
A fixed router ($130) and block plane ($15) has the capability to clean up just about any cut that is made,
but I would add in a good aluminum utility fence/clamp ($50) for guaranteed straight cuts.
http://www.rockler.com/product.....lter=fence
Patrick Spielman’s book ‘The New Router Handbook’ (which I’m currently reading), has tips on how to use the router
as a planer and jointer. Some of the ideas seem dated, but that doesn’t mean they aren’t valid.
I may suggest a chopsaw, but this puts us out of our price range.
I know in my shop, I rarely make cross-cuts on the tablesaw because of this tool.
Does the $1000 also include accessories? Better blades, complete drill bit set and hand saws?
(A good question for the future…) What kind of drill bit set?
I started out with a 36? piece HSS set, but more recently I bought a 25? piece brad point set ($35) and a 7 piece forstner bit set ($20).
For the circular saw, I would get at least 2 new blades. A good carbide plywood blade, and some kind of a dedicated rip blade. (Approx $20 total).
When I replaced my chop saw blade with the Freud blade, my crosscuts became much cleaner. That is when I discovered that my chop saw was ever so slightly out of square.
I also agree with the chisel selection ($45). Even today I am looking for an inexpensive mortis chisel. I don’t necessarily need it for mortising, but for those time when I need to delve straight into a piece of wood.
Router bits themselves can set you back quite a bit! (pun?) I am unaware of any 1/2″ sets, but there are gobs of 1/4″ sets of varying usefulness. I would pick the standard size straight bits (1/4″, 1/2″, 3/4″, 5/8″ ), 2 roundovers w/ bearings (1/4″, 3/8″). I would also include a router edge guide ($20). Amazingly enough, I upgraded my router a year ago and I just recently bought an edge guide. I could have saved so much time over the years!
http://www.rockler.com/product.....er%20guide
Speaking of edge guides, they are available for jig saws and circular saws, (~$10), but I’ve never used one.
Because of space constraints, I need to precut my plywood… generally outside. In order to maximize materials, I don’t rip the whole length of plywood but cut out ’squares’.
At corners, the circular saw doesn’t cut all the way thru the wood, so I use a Japanese pull saw ($15) to cut the remaining materials.
I also use a coping saw a lot, and have a variety of blades for it ($20). (Now if I could just find one where the handle doesn’t come out of the ferrule!)
I enjoyed your video on clamps. I must argue that in a situation where one only has the tools above, those QuickClamps are the quickest way to clamp straight edges and guides to work.
So throw some clamps into the mix ($20).
Now, many of the prices I included are rough, but by my calculation the total is $870. The remaining could be used on router bits, screw drivers, hammers, taxes… etc.
Bill
What can be written that hasn’t already been said. How about:
The Wood Working hobbiest can get by with the cheaper tools until they are more proficent with thier skills and actually know what they need based on what part of the hobby they want to explore.
A fine woodworker doesn’t blame his tools.
I would begin with a plunge router, jig saw, circular saw, cordless drill, a few clamps, cheap chisels, hammer and a straight edge. Which can all be bought at home depot.
Ryobi is the cheapest tool on the market and works very reliably for the money, you should be able to get started for under $500. I have used Ryobi equipment daily for years with no problems or breakdown.
Save the rest of the money to buy material and finishes - start making jigs, cabinets, benches and racks. You will begin to be more confidant with your skills and you will be building your hobby at the same time. As your experiance grows so will your tools. You will then discover the direction in woodworking that gives back the greatest satisfaction.
A very interesting situation, no tools and only $1000 to spend. What I probably would do is to start buying as less as possible. I’d buy a good router, jig saw, random orbit sander and a cordless power drill, a few hand tools such as planes, chisels, hand saws and some clamps. The rest of the money I would to put aside in for instance a savings account.
With this set of tools you could start of making some furniture from plywood, MDF and prefabricated boards. And you could also do some handyman jobs. The next year you could take the put away money together with the money for the second year and your earnings to buy yourself a good planer and jointer along with a table saw and even perhaps a bandsaw.
Posted for Matt:
Being cheaper than the black of night (but not a remorseful buyer either), I have few suggestions to offer.
First when you want to get into a hobby, ask everyone you know if that have something for that hobby they might like to sell. Then ask if anyone they know might know someone who wants to sell stuff.
I have had very good luck this way with co-workers, friends, WW Club members and strangers I meet at the lumberyard or HD or LOWES and of course, my extended family. To illustrate, about 15 years ago, I was hot for a radial arm saw. An my Uncle in Syracuse found one cheap enough that it made sense for me and my Pop to make a round trip visit and come home with the saw. So tooling around can be fun too!
Secondly, look very seriously at refurbished and remanufactured tools from the majors. A lot of times these are tools that were purchased, used for one job and returned in the same day. Other times, retailers, distributors and so on will return a tool to the vendor if a box is ripped. Grainger and McMaster-Carr are well know for this practice.
While these tools are not new, new; the way most of us use tools they will last a lifetime. There is little to no risk in buying a refurbished tool today from a major manufacturer. Just be sure to shop carefully, buy according to Model No. and price. In the end, you might find that you can get say a better router for less than you were going to have to pay if something was new in the first place.
Third and finally, with respect to cordless tools, buy one brand, with one voltage of batteries and stick with it. I have 14.4 volt DEWALT tools and I love them. And since I already have chargers and batteries, finding a duplicate or new “bare tool” is often easy and quite cheap; especially on Ebay.
Just my pearls of wisdom in the wee hours of this Saturday morning.
Matt
First, you have to have a way of ripping/crosscutting wood accurately so you’ll need a used contractor table saw and and decent corded circular saw. Next, you’ll need a jig saw for rough crosscutting and sheetwork. I’d try to buy something comparable to the Bosch but get it used. Next, a corded VS drill and ROS. You’ll need a set of screwdrivers and a hammer. It’s possible to do this for well under $1000 if you buy used. As funds allow my next purchases would be a used jointer and then a lunchbox planer. After this I’d buy a good used block plane and then a router and then a LV BU plane with all three blades and then I’d buy a and then I’d buy a and then I’d…gee, I think that I’ve run over budget.
I don’t know if anyone thought of this, but what about a laptop so I can surf thewoodwhisperer.com… this is a heck of a tool if you ask me. Though, you can’t build much with a laptop.
$1000, thats about £600 in proper money (and keep in mind things cost a little more on the mainland than they do in the colonies) so…
Timber and tackle for a good quality homemade bench ~£200, quality square and ruler ~£50, Wood bits ~£10, a big pot of wood glue, white spirit and boiled linseed oil ~£25 a set of sharpening stones and saw files ~£75 and then hit the auctions for hand tools; wooden block, smoother, scrub, jack and jointing planes ~£50, Paring chisels ~£40, auger bits and brace ~£30, egg whisk ~£10, Hand saws (rip, cross cut, tenon, gents) ~£80, Clamps ~£20, Shirt from back torn up to make rags - £free, Lunch and a Pint £10.
Someone responded that you should know what projects you are going to build before you buy the power tools.
In my case, I wanted to build cabinets. Here is what I bought or used at less than $1,000:
Delta tablesaw $475
Corded drill $50
Circular saw $45
Biscuit joiner $125
Pocket screw jig $49
Pad sander $49
Miter box and saw $20
Router plunge/fixed $189
I used the circular saw to cut the plywood down to the correct sizes using a straight edge with the plywood on 4-2×2s on sawhorses.
Used the tablesaw to rip the face frames. Miter box to cut to length. Plunge router to cut the slots for shaker style doors. Pad sander to smooth edges of face frames, doors and final sanding.
Joined the boxes for the cabinets with biscuits, glue and screws. Pocket screws to join the face frames.
From then on, I would buy a power tool to fit the project. Table top jointer was next, router table, then bandsaw, then drill press, then planner over the next four years.
tablesaw ofcourse cause you can rip, crosscut
dovetail joinery finger joints
cove cuts etc.then a nice router plunge!then
clamps
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I started woodworking in the 1940’s power tools were not that common. most of my tools came down from the famly.old bailey and wood planes some over 100 years old, hand saws, chiselsand layout tools.they served me well for many years.all can be found used for cheepwith the plus of learning about the wood it was well after thatI started to buy power tools. I still use mostly go with hand tools.Rough stock joint and surface cut to size don’t need a jig and router fot dovetails ect.Save the the extra money for later.Just how I started out.
If you look at the question carefully, you have zero tools and only $1000. and nothing more for a year.
Ok I can buy a good secondhand table saw, but what use is a table saw without a hammer and nails?
I would forget all about power tools, with the exception of a corded drill. I would buy the best quality secondhand/used hand tools I could find. Nothing fancy, because the money will not go far, when you consider all the small things you need - what is the use of having a hand plane or chisels, if you cannot sharpen them, what is the use of having screws, if you do not have a screw driver.
We are all today taken over by labor saving machines, many of us forget what are the basic requirements.
some hand tools and do it the old fasioned way, even mke your own tools and save some money, at least you would be able to complete some projects whilst your waiting for the NEXT $1000
Many respondents here focus too much on power tools. If you only want to cut up sheet goods and screw stuff together, fine, but if you want to be a real woodworker, you’ll need some bench skills.
I could do a lot with a stanley #5 plane and a set of Marples Blue Chip chisels. Add a decent set of waterstones and you are up around $100, new. Of course, Stanley planes are easy to find on Ebay, cheap. I would skip the block plane for now. I seldom use one, prefering a #4 or #5 for virtually all work.
A good tape measure, a tri-square and a marking gage can be scrounged for $20-$30.
You’ll need a solid bench to work on, and something to hold work with. A big professional bench vise will set you back $100, but a workmate will suffice for some tasks, but not all. You’ll need a couple of clamps to hold work to your bench, or a holdfast of some sort.
Breaking up sheet goods can be done with a circular saw of course. A straight edge guide doesn’t need to be fancy at all and can be fashioned easily from 1/4″ plywood with a straight piece of metal screwed to it. NOW you need a way to lay out and make square cuts… Add a framing square to the mix. Screwing a board to the short leg of the square allows it to register off the edge of a sheet or ply. A square can be made pretty darn accurate by peening the corner with a nail set.
I like a light ball-peen hammer for cabinet-making. A mallet is nice to have as well. A claw hammer will do, but the balance is a little off for chisel work.
You’ll need a hand-saw for cutting joints. a backsaw or Japanese Dozuki or Ryoba will do. A bandsaw can substitute for a lot of hand-sawing tasks. I have a couple of self-made 24″ bow saws which are easy to build and a superior tool for cutting tenons and dovetails. Its surprising that such a large saw can do accurate work… but it really can.
A corded drill is a better investment than a cordless one… really. If you plan to do any drilling of metal, get one with a keyed chuck.
We’re still well under $500 here.
A router comes in handy. One need not overspend too much, but if you want to make mortises a plunge router is worth the investment. 1/4″ and 3/8″ spiral mortising will get you started. Other than that most routing will be of edge profiles and perhaps dados and rabbets. A set of roundover bits and a 45 degree bevel bit are most used by me. A flush-trimming bit is really useful if you plan to work with laminates or edge-banding. The router should have a fence as well, though one can be improvised by clamping a block of wood to the base.
Of course a router table is easily improvised.
Once you have the circular saw, router, and hand tools, you’ll want to look at machinery.
A shop vac is real useful.
I love having a jointer but I don’t consider it essential at all. Straight edges can be achieved with a circular saw and guide… or with a chalk line, saw, and hand plane. Face jointing on a solid bench with a sharp plane is strenuous work, but its really not that much trouble.
A portable planer though… thats worth having. Good ones can be had for about $250 these days. You will need a vacuum for the planer too. A relatively simple jig allows the flattening of the face of a board in your planer… so the jointer becomes unnecessary these days.
We are up around $750 now… which doesn’t really leave room to buy a good bandsaw, which is a shame. The bandsaw is my favorite machine, but you will never discover the joy of the bandsaw if you have one which cannot be tuned to make straight cuts.
Quality Asian imports keep getting cheaper, so good inexpensive bandsaws may be around these days.
Table saw? With the bandsaw you really don’t need one.
A kreg pocket hole jig is great to have for a whole lot of reasons. I would pick it over a biscuit joiner.