Worksharp WS3000 Guest Review
What follows is a review of the Worksharp WS3000 Tool Sharpener, written by one of our chat room regulars, LordLQQk. I hope you find it helpful.
The sand paper clogs too quickly, even on the coarser grits (the grits with the lowest numbers). They have to be cleaned constantly with the rubber cleaner to be effective. The coarsest grit provided isn’t coarse enough for even moderate metal removal. It is great for light metal removal, honing, and finishing to a near mirrored surface; but if you are looking to flatten the back of a wide blade that is fresh out of the box, or damaged, you will need to buy a coarser grit (100 grit) to start with.
The sticky backed sand paper is prone to air bubbles which is a leading cause of sand paper blow out. This at least can be corrected by using a needle to open a passage for the air to escape through the paper. This is a huge issue especially for the finer grits. The only positive angle stops are at 20, 25, 30, and 35. This is good for basic sharpening, but you are unable to get that 1 to 2 degree micro-bevel that I have been spoiled into getting with other devices. You can get a very decent 5 degree micro-bevel on the first three angles by setting it up a 5 degree notch though.
The ring that surrounds the spinning disc is made out of aluminum. This means that it is not conductive to magnets. It would be of great help to be about to attach magnets to the ring to attract some of the metal dust that is flung off the disc. The metal dust is an issue. With the WS3000 it is flung everywhere. One of the best and worst things about water stones is the water/slurry that is made during the sharpening process traps the metal “filings” or dust that is made, bonus for them; but the negative side of the coin is that it is sloppy and a wet mess afterwards.
With the top rest that can be used, that can also be mounted under the disc for free-hand sharpening, there is no angle indicator. Ok, I hear the “but that is what free hand sharpening is all about.” Well that is fine, but there are many times during my sharpening experience that the iron is pulled or jerked to the side. This throws off consistent sharpening. It would be good if they provided at least a registration plate to slide on to the tool rest, like a wide tight fitting washer that could be used to make sure the blade was perpendicular to the disc while sharpening, if it was desired. Another slight issue is that unless you are going free hand you are limited to a 2″ blade. That means that any plane blades over that and you are hosed, this includes #4 1/2, #5 1/2, and up. But look toward the bottom for a trick to over come this short coming.
For the plus side of things: You can basically use any 6″ PSA disc (PSA is the sticky backed type) on the system. As long as, of course, you punch a 3/4″ hole in the dead center. And you can get those at any hardware store, but it is generally not possible to find the higher 1000+ grit variety. So for those you are going to have to go to WorkSharp; or MAYBE a higher end auto parts/painting place or the Internet or maybe make your own. A great thing because, again, you can get 100 grit discs for the more hard core metal removal if you really toast a blade. Another one for the plus side is that sharpening gouges is great. The view-thru wheel is wonderful for irregular shaped blades that you need to watch as you grind. Although you still need to deal with the free-handed idea that you can’t set a stable angle without some practice, the tool rest can be mounted on the bottom to help with any blade. This is where this system shines. With stones and every other sharpening system I have used, outside of MDF and a molded contour with embedded diamond paste, this is the only system that truly allows you to effectively manage the shape and angle of the edge. By being able to actually look through the wheel you are able to hone an edge without wondering if I am bluing the edge or grinding it past the point of effectiveness. The aluminum flat tool rest for chisels acts as a decent heat sync. The registration guide can also be moved further to the left than is what is documented. This does make it possible to sharpen blades beyond the 2″ limit with proper registration but since the blade is off the aluminum heat sync backing you must be careful not to blue the edge.
Although I have pointed out some nit-picky details that I would like to see upgraded or at least optional, I like the unit as a whole. It is a great starter sharpening center for any turner, chisel or plane jockey, or gouge monkey that isn’t going to count on it to sharpen jointer blades or need hollow bevels. But it is just not the end all be all, and people shouldn’t look at it like it is. No sharpening set up is. They all have their own negatives and positives. I wouldn’t toss my 120 grit small grinding stone on my Delta sharpener, it is great for hollowed bevels. I wouldn’t toss my stones either, they are outstanding with my Veritas MK II guide for accurate angles and micro-bevels of 1 and 2 degrees.
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Work Sharp ™ WS3000 Tool Sharpener This special package includes an additional slotted wheel. $19.99 Value! Air-cooled, dry sharpening system eliminates the mess of a wet system. |
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I am very surprised to hear this. I have heard nothing but positives about the entire unit. Thanks for the informative review!
Lates
Kind of funny that this is being reviewed. I have been looking for a sharpener for a while now. I cant justify $500 for a tormek, I could probably afford a $300 Jet, but would it be worth the price? This one is $200, but it seems limited compared to the other 2, and over priced.
I have a $12 honing jig, but It will not work with the short blades that are in my small trimming plane. Today I finally figured I could clamp the plane blade to a chisel, and lock the chisel to the jig. After a few passes on some sand paper, then to the water stones, and It is better then new. My leg now has a patch of missing hair. I am so happy I was able to sharpen it.
I do agree with a couple of things on the original review, like the metal swarf tossed around tossed around, etc., but I really like this thing. Once you get a blade preped, you don’t need to go back everytime to the coarse stones, etc., and for touch ups, this thing can’t be beat. Fast, easy, etc. I have stones of various sorts and use them readily, for love the worksharp for back flattening and quick bevel settings. I wish for a micro adjustment also, not just a 5 degree, but I can do that on a water stone in 20 seconds. I found that I can order the psa paper from Klingspor and just use a “sharpened” 1/2″ copper pipe to punch the middle hole, just made a little wooden jig to hold them, took about 10 minutes to make the jig. After woodworking for 35 years or so (both professionaly and amateur) I really found something that works great to get there fast. I have developed arthritis in my hands, and this thing really helps with that also, i.e., don’t have to fight the backs of chisels or plane blades anymore.
I read the review and was surprised. My own experience was quite different. The grits that came with the kit were quite adequate with the exception if some very old, rusted chisels.
The top tool rest worked pretty well also. If the reviewer had the problems indicated I suggest he may have been applying too much pressure. The top tool rest is NOT designed to mount under the wheel although the folks at WorkSharp said they are working on something that will. As of last month they had no time frame set.
When using 6″ psa disks, instead of trying to punch a hole in the exact center it is easier to mount the disk and then cut the hole with a sharp blade using the glass disk as a template. A 6″ disk is slightly too big and should be trimmed around the edge of the glass wheel.
I agree that a 1° bevel would be tough, needing some skill at free handing on top of the wheel. However, the 5° bevel works well in use and the WS-3000 makes it really easy to restore.
Lord,
You’re a star, baby! After reading your review, it seems the old adage ” you get what you pay for ” applies. I think I would much rather save a few more bucks and buy the JET or even a few more and get the Tormek. Thanks for your time Lord.
Vic
Bill,
The tool rest may be placed under the wheel. It may be for specific types of applications, but on the back side of my WS 3000 there are two mounting t-slots like the ones on top for mounting the tool rest and “accessories”.
For all,
Don’t get me wrong. This is a great tool with some very unique features. It does have a few short comings, in my opinion, but most of its short comings have little to do with the features that make this sharpening system shine. I would not begin to suggest that someone doesn’t buy the WS 3000, far from it. It does excel in a few important key areas. But don’t expect it to be the one and only sharpening tool you’ll ever need.
LQQK
LQQK,
There are to slot on the back, but the top tool rest does not fit in them. Those slots were to take an accessory rest that was available from Rockler for a very short time when the 3000 was introduced. They are working on a new rest to use those slots but it is not yet available.
If you try to mount the rest on the back it hits the body of the machine. If you figured a way around this design, please post a picture.
I have to disagree with LordLQQK. I have owned the Worksharp 3000 for about 1 month. I got it on sale when Amazon.com was selling for $150.
I can testify that this system have allowed me to get the a nasty sharp edge on my chisels and plane irons. It will slice through maple end grain with ease. It has a mirror finish when you follow up with the 6000 grit.
As far as air bubble go. I had no issues. Apply the PSA paper in the middle and work outward. Same method for laying laminate. I do not find the sand paper to clog fast, but it does get dirty because it works so well. The clean it back to like new takes 3 seconds and I would not consider it a chore.
Having a 5 degree bevel versus a 1 or 2 does not matter to me. The chisels and planes cut like a beast when they are sharpened on this machine.
One thing I do agree with Lord on is that a courser grit could be needed to flatten the backs of a chisel if the chisel was completely jacked. But honestly what it comes with does the job very well.
Is the end all sharpening system. No. It does not do everything. But for shaping turning tools and bench chisels this thing is the BOmB.
For the money, there is no competition for this system. All the positive reviews you have seen tell it like it is. If you want a Tormek or a Jet get it and then go buy all the accessories to make it do what this can do.
But I am telling you…there is no way in hell you will be able to make a “sharper” edge than this machine for a bench chisel. It may be the same, but not sharper and I will do it faster!!!
Thats my opinion and I am sticking to it.
Nice write up Lord! However, I think there is too much negativity in the beginning and that’s what most people are reading into the entire review. I have a WorkSharp 3000 for about 6 months now and love it. I reviewed it on my website as well (http://www.joeswoodstuff.com/worksharp.htm) and got some great feedback on that. I agree with mostly everything said but I will stick to my own original opinion: the WorkSharp 3000 is an awesome sharpening system and you won’t do better for the money. They are typically $200 but I’ve seen deals on Amazon and eBay for a lot less now and then. In addition, customer service has been well beyond my expectations, and that means more to me than the low price.
I am pleased with the power and flexibility of this unit. What it shows up is how different the existing angles are on my chisels considering they were all done previously on the Lee Valley jig with supposedly the same angle. Obviously, once the main meat has been taken care of it is just a matter of maintenance and a two minute job. I also keep alittle cup of cold water just to ensure a cool tip temp.It takes a little while to gain a technique with the different grits, but that being said, it pleases me as is. Also remember that the unit is a work in progress from the manufacturer and they are being attentive to user feedback. My only negative comment would be on the cost of disks. But then this is Canada! Go ahead , enjoy!
I bought Work Sharp WS3000 Wood Tool Sharpener at this website http://www.dealsShoppie.com/pr.....Work+Sharp. There were 37 ratings with an average rating of 4.5. I found this information to be very helpful and give the product a thumbs up.
this “guest reviewer” doesn’t appear to have read the manual, as it tells how you can avoid air bubbles when applying the paper as well as grind a micro bevel using the tool port.
Actually, yes I did read the manual, cover to cover. The directions within it did state how to apply the disks to “reduce” air bubbles. However, it is still difficult to do so without using a needle to press them out when the imperfect world that we have to contend with puts them in.
The system is great for some applications, and since my original posting of this review they have added a guide for sharpening blades on top. Since I mentioned that that was a short coming maybe I’ll be seeing a check from them soon. Ok, maybe not, more free R&D that I do.
I still use the system from time to time, but would not head to it for my fine chisels or plane blades on my jointer, smoother, or low angle block. Scrub, jack, scraper planes absolutely; turning gouges, hell yeah; my knock around chisels, done and double done.
LQQK
I find I get better results with my stones. Which is a shame. I really do not like the time and mess involved with my water stones. However, the results with my worksharp 3000, while OK, just are not the razor edge I get with stones. The other negative is lapping backs. The worksharp in theory would be great for removing … but I found it sucked for this purpose. Its hard to get small chisels down without the spining disc gouging the stem pretty badly. Heel to toe doesnt work well on a spinning disk.
I agree with this review. The Worksharp has its place, but I still need to use stones for my good plane blades. I also really would like to see the bevel choice more than 4 in 5 degree increments. I do not see the point in a 5 degree microbevel. 3 degrees works great for me.
To bad – I really would have loved to throw out my stones. I’m going to make a table for the unit so I can use my Veritas jigs with it. A table top level with the disc is something they should offer with this unit. Slide on and off the disc like using stones.