I’m currious why that would be on that list?

I understand that in the old-days an apprentice had to learn to make them, but he would first have had access to a good shop, tools, and a Master-Craftsmen so he could learn to make an accurate set.

If woodworking is a persons’ hobby, they don’t have any of those resources starting-out so, tools like straight-edges, squares, etc that are very accurate seem like a necessity!

Since Handplanes have such a learning-curve in setup and use, I can see an even bigger reason to have the most accurate straight-edges and winding-sticks to confirm your efforts.

Is there something I’m missing?

If you get a chance go to a automotive body shop and ask to see thier spray booth. The lighting form them is probably the most extreme situation i can think of.

They normally have them at a 45 degree angle…… on the wall

in the corner where the wall meets the ceiling…like really large crown molding… this gives you raking light and at the same time diminishes the change of a large shadow effect from your body…..

Just an idea………

Oh Just to throw this is…

PVC is ok for shop air…. have had it many shops no issues ……EVER….. and I have beat it up….

You guys are great thank you….

If you are replacing lamps in your shop, I recommend replacing the ALL at the same time with the same type. As the lamp ages the Color Temp and CRI change. Old ones will look Old next to new ones. Your shots look real good. You may just need more light. Look into “High-Bay” or “High-Output” florescent lights. If I remember, your shop ceiling is over 15′?

For the finishing room there are special High-CRI laps that are mounted on a “snake-lite” pedestal that would relay help at seeing where that last coat of varnish is a little thiner or thicker. We use one like this ( http://www.naturallighting.com.....how_detail ) to make compare colors where I work. I would put one in my finishing room if it had walls:)

2.I was thinking about my future spay booth set up and in the less that perfect world a spay room/photo studio with a roll down back drop so the room could double as a photo room to shoot my work.

3.Dyed through tenons , I just made a table and then decided to make a matching bench, and I used different methods on both

A. the table, I assembled the legs with the tenons thru the top and sanded the top and tenons at the same time then I disassembled the piece dyed the top black water based aniline dye and shellacked the tenons on the leg and reassembled the unit.
b. the bench, the second time I did it a little different. I assembled the piece first I sanded the top and tenons smooth, then masked off the tenons and shellac them, then I masked the tenons and dyed the the top black with water based aniline dye
it worked. the shellac being alcohol based and the dye being water based for the top made the difference I taped the tenons to be on the save side.
graziano

Also if anyone is interested, I had a chance to see the chamfering jig from Veritas in action this weekend. I still will continue to do mine freehand, but it was fun to play with!

You talked about fluorescent lamps and what would work best for a finishing booth or in your woodshop. Although color is a personal preference hopefully the information below will help those who may be confused with what K ratings are.

The color rendering (K) scale is 3000K to 6500K . In general the higher the color rendering the better the eye will be able to distinguish between similar colors. 3000K is a soft white, 4100k is a cool white, 5000k is a natural sunshine, and 6500k is daylight.

Although 5000K is not the highest color rendering its often associated as having the best ability to show colors accurately. At the electrical distributor where I work, lamps with 5000K color rendering are the most popular for just about any high end job we sell. 5000K is acceptable for Galleries, Museums, Jewelry stores, etc. and would be a great choice for a finishing room.

Hope this is informative. You can also visit any of the Lamp manufactureres websites to find out more.