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	<title>Comments on: Which Comes First: Planer or Jointer?</title>
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	<description>Education and Entertainment for the modern woodworker.</description>
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		<title>By: Bob Sisson</title>
		<link>http://thewoodwhisperer.com/which-comes-first-planer-or-jointer/#comment-123936</link>
		<dc:creator>Bob Sisson</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 04 Nov 2011 00:22:09 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://thewoodwhisperer.com/which-comes-first-planer-or-jointer-question-of-the-week/#comment-123936</guid>
		<description>I went with the planer first because of the money. I get all my would from as saw mill. Let it dry for a year then plane it. It is a LOT of work for the planer. I am finally after 10 years going to get the jointer. I never had the room before but built a bigger wood shop. That will save mr a k lot od wood also the problem with just the planer is that it pushes the wood down flat while planing and springs back up after through the planer, some time the wood is not usable. But if you only have money or space for 1 tool get the planer.
Bob</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I went with the planer first because of the money. I get all my would from as saw mill. Let it dry for a year then plane it. It is a LOT of work for the planer. I am finally after 10 years going to get the jointer. I never had the room before but built a bigger wood shop. That will save mr a k lot od wood also the problem with just the planer is that it pushes the wood down flat while planing and springs back up after through the planer, some time the wood is not usable. But if you only have money or space for 1 tool get the planer.<br />
Bob</p>
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		<title>By: MarjorieBoccella</title>
		<link>http://thewoodwhisperer.com/which-comes-first-planer-or-jointer/#comment-102123</link>
		<dc:creator>MarjorieBoccella</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 17 Jun 2011 19:00:58 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://thewoodwhisperer.com/which-comes-first-planer-or-jointer-question-of-the-week/#comment-102123</guid>
		<description>Nowadays, I read many thing about this issue. I am a bit confused. Everyone is saying something else.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Nowadays, I read many thing about this issue. I am a bit confused. Everyone is saying something else.</p>
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		<title>By: Ross</title>
		<link>http://thewoodwhisperer.com/which-comes-first-planer-or-jointer/#comment-99491</link>
		<dc:creator>Ross</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 18 May 2011 15:14:50 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://thewoodwhisperer.com/which-comes-first-planer-or-jointer-question-of-the-week/#comment-99491</guid>
		<description>I am in a similar situation as Steve. I am currently borrowing a planer from a friend. It is an older or cheaper model and I have noticed issues. I have learned how to deal with these issues, though. For example, the snipe is almost impossible to prevent completely. As a result I have learned to sand a lot. Also it seems that wide boards are a bad idea as one side of the planer seems to take off a half millimeter more than one side. This is fine if I&#039;m planing something narrower than 3&quot; or 4&quot;. Eliminating bowing and cupping, however, can&#039;t be done. With the issues I&#039;ve had with bowing and cupping of boards, I am looking forward to getting a jointer. I may look into this &#039;planer sled&#039; idea, though.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I am in a similar situation as Steve. I am currently borrowing a planer from a friend. It is an older or cheaper model and I have noticed issues. I have learned how to deal with these issues, though. For example, the snipe is almost impossible to prevent completely. As a result I have learned to sand a lot. Also it seems that wide boards are a bad idea as one side of the planer seems to take off a half millimeter more than one side. This is fine if I&#8217;m planing something narrower than 3&#8243; or 4&#8243;. Eliminating bowing and cupping, however, can&#8217;t be done. With the issues I&#8217;ve had with bowing and cupping of boards, I am looking forward to getting a jointer. I may look into this &#8216;planer sled&#8217; idea, though.</p>
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		<title>By: Mike R</title>
		<link>http://thewoodwhisperer.com/which-comes-first-planer-or-jointer/#comment-69684</link>
		<dc:creator>Mike R</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 09 Nov 2010 17:21:03 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://thewoodwhisperer.com/which-comes-first-planer-or-jointer-question-of-the-week/#comment-69684</guid>
		<description>Wow - you shop at Big (Orange) Box and you&#039;re still willing to assert that surfaced lumber is &quot;close to flat?!&quot;</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Wow &#8211; you shop at Big (Orange) Box and you&#8217;re still willing to assert that surfaced lumber is &#8220;close to flat?!&#8221;</p>
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		<title>By: Loren Woirhaye</title>
		<link>http://thewoodwhisperer.com/which-comes-first-planer-or-jointer/#comment-59707</link>
		<dc:creator>Loren Woirhaye</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 04 Aug 2010 04:20:04 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://thewoodwhisperer.com/which-comes-first-planer-or-jointer-question-of-the-week/#comment-59707</guid>
		<description>BUY the PLANER first.

These days in many North American areas used jointers and planers are abundant.  The lunchbox planers can be had for about $100 used and the decent-quality 6&quot; jointers can be had for about the same.

Serious surfacing of rough wood will tear-up lunchbox planers in my experience... they are really disposable tools with too many fragile parts compared to a real, all metal planer.  The lunchbox planers also tend to give a nicer finish and some control sniping better than some heavy-duty light industrial planers.

The jointer, much as I love having one, is an over-rated tool.  It is not so hard to flatten a board with a jack plane (or bigger).  Doing it often will make you fit as well.  But thicknessing boards by hand is a hella lot more work than flattening one side.  Thus, you can flatten one side, and run that side down in the planer to surface the opposite side to flat.  The truth is you can do a pretty vague flattening job with side A and still end up with a flat board when you are done.  

Add to that, a jointer, if you try to flatten all your boards with it, will eat up a lot of usable stock.  Hand planes are a much more flexible tool.  With a jointer you&#039;ll be tempted to try to tune the board flat every which way - with planes you&#039;ll put your attention on the corners and problem areas, where they belong, and not remove more stock than is needed because you&#039;ll just be making more work for yourself.

Regarding the edge-jointing capacity of a jointer:  I admit it can do a good job with edges, but even a jointer is a tool that requires skill unless you have an enormous automated one with an 8 foot bed and a power feeder.   

These days you can rip a pretty nice joint with a handheld saw and a straight edge and fix it clean with a router or a hand-plane.  The router and hand-held circular saw really make the stationary jointer partially obsolete.

While I never made much practice of jointing plywood to remove saw marks when making cabinets, some people do and it really wrecks the jointer knives.  Considering plywood cabinet sides are generally under 3 feet on an edge, the jointer is a quick and easy tool to do this with.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>BUY the PLANER first.</p>
<p>These days in many North American areas used jointers and planers are abundant.  The lunchbox planers can be had for about $100 used and the decent-quality 6&#8243; jointers can be had for about the same.</p>
<p>Serious surfacing of rough wood will tear-up lunchbox planers in my experience&#8230; they are really disposable tools with too many fragile parts compared to a real, all metal planer.  The lunchbox planers also tend to give a nicer finish and some control sniping better than some heavy-duty light industrial planers.</p>
<p>The jointer, much as I love having one, is an over-rated tool.  It is not so hard to flatten a board with a jack plane (or bigger).  Doing it often will make you fit as well.  But thicknessing boards by hand is a hella lot more work than flattening one side.  Thus, you can flatten one side, and run that side down in the planer to surface the opposite side to flat.  The truth is you can do a pretty vague flattening job with side A and still end up with a flat board when you are done.  </p>
<p>Add to that, a jointer, if you try to flatten all your boards with it, will eat up a lot of usable stock.  Hand planes are a much more flexible tool.  With a jointer you&#8217;ll be tempted to try to tune the board flat every which way &#8211; with planes you&#8217;ll put your attention on the corners and problem areas, where they belong, and not remove more stock than is needed because you&#8217;ll just be making more work for yourself.</p>
<p>Regarding the edge-jointing capacity of a jointer:  I admit it can do a good job with edges, but even a jointer is a tool that requires skill unless you have an enormous automated one with an 8 foot bed and a power feeder.   </p>
<p>These days you can rip a pretty nice joint with a handheld saw and a straight edge and fix it clean with a router or a hand-plane.  The router and hand-held circular saw really make the stationary jointer partially obsolete.</p>
<p>While I never made much practice of jointing plywood to remove saw marks when making cabinets, some people do and it really wrecks the jointer knives.  Considering plywood cabinet sides are generally under 3 feet on an edge, the jointer is a quick and easy tool to do this with.</p>
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		<title>By: Dwade</title>
		<link>http://thewoodwhisperer.com/which-comes-first-planer-or-jointer/#comment-55241</link>
		<dc:creator>Dwade</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 11 Mar 2010 23:47:15 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://thewoodwhisperer.com/which-comes-first-planer-or-jointer-question-of-the-week/#comment-55241</guid>
		<description>Awesome! Thanks for the post! I tried putting in planer vs. jointer on the woodwhisperer but ran into just a bunch of ads that really started confusing more more than anything when I was reading the replies. I think that that video definitely helped and yes, it was pretty much what I&#039;d thought. In general, planers are for the face and jointers are for the edges but sometimes you may or can use them both cross ways. I never even though about having flat edges but your board could be a wedge so that was a great helpful hint to simply table saw the opposite edge of the edge you just jointed. Once the video began showing &quot;alternative&quot; methods, I got confused very quickly. Great post, thanks so much for giving me this shortcut b/c I was getting frustrated looking for what I was looking for! Dwade</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Awesome! Thanks for the post! I tried putting in planer vs. jointer on the woodwhisperer but ran into just a bunch of ads that really started confusing more more than anything when I was reading the replies. I think that that video definitely helped and yes, it was pretty much what I&#8217;d thought. In general, planers are for the face and jointers are for the edges but sometimes you may or can use them both cross ways. I never even though about having flat edges but your board could be a wedge so that was a great helpful hint to simply table saw the opposite edge of the edge you just jointed. Once the video began showing &#8220;alternative&#8221; methods, I got confused very quickly. Great post, thanks so much for giving me this shortcut b/c I was getting frustrated looking for what I was looking for! Dwade</p>
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		<title>By: thewoodwhisperer</title>
		<link>http://thewoodwhisperer.com/which-comes-first-planer-or-jointer/#comment-55240</link>
		<dc:creator>thewoodwhisperer</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 11 Mar 2010 23:10:54 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://thewoodwhisperer.com/which-comes-first-planer-or-jointer-question-of-the-week/#comment-55240</guid>
		<description>Hey Dwade.  You kinda lost me on that machine you are talking about.  But a picture is worth a thousand words so check out this video: http://thewoodwhisperer.com/episode-6-the-jointers-jumpin/</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hey Dwade.  You kinda lost me on that machine you are talking about.  But a picture is worth a thousand words so check out this video: <a href="http://thewoodwhisperer.com/episode-6-the-jointers-jumpin/" rel="nofollow">http://thewoodwhisperer.com/ep.....rs-jumpin/</a></p>
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		<title>By: Dwade</title>
		<link>http://thewoodwhisperer.com/which-comes-first-planer-or-jointer/#comment-55238</link>
		<dc:creator>Dwade</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 11 Mar 2010 22:33:42 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://thewoodwhisperer.com/which-comes-first-planer-or-jointer-question-of-the-week/#comment-55238</guid>
		<description>Guys, I&#039;m still very confused. I don&#039;t understand the difference between a planer and jointer. I watched a video on You-tube and still didn&#039;t understand the differences. I remember in shop class in high school school and a planer basically made a (for instance) long flat board, for the most part, flat. Didn&#039;t do anything to the sides of the board just the main face and back of the board. I understand this. On top of this planer, was a flat part of the machine that had this rotating blade that was really wide that you ran the edges of your board over, to make it true. And I suppose, that if the board you were using, wasn&#039;t wider than this wide rotating blade thingie, it could in theory, &quot;plane&quot; this boards face and back too, although if it was really long, the cup and convexity of the board would not be truly planed like the area that you shoved the board through, like in the first part of my example. Is this correct? In general, you plane the face and backs of boards and you joint (or is it &quot;join&quot;) the edges of boards? Thanks in advance, for your replies....I&#039;m an idiot but do have some fundamentals with wood working....nothing like you guys but I do enjoy tinkering.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Guys, I&#8217;m still very confused. I don&#8217;t understand the difference between a planer and jointer. I watched a video on You-tube and still didn&#8217;t understand the differences. I remember in shop class in high school school and a planer basically made a (for instance) long flat board, for the most part, flat. Didn&#8217;t do anything to the sides of the board just the main face and back of the board. I understand this. On top of this planer, was a flat part of the machine that had this rotating blade that was really wide that you ran the edges of your board over, to make it true. And I suppose, that if the board you were using, wasn&#8217;t wider than this wide rotating blade thingie, it could in theory, &#8220;plane&#8221; this boards face and back too, although if it was really long, the cup and convexity of the board would not be truly planed like the area that you shoved the board through, like in the first part of my example. Is this correct? In general, you plane the face and backs of boards and you joint (or is it &#8220;join&#8221;) the edges of boards? Thanks in advance, for your replies&#8230;.I&#8217;m an idiot but do have some fundamentals with wood working&#8230;.nothing like you guys but I do enjoy tinkering.</p>
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		<title>By: Thomas Barclay</title>
		<link>http://thewoodwhisperer.com/which-comes-first-planer-or-jointer/#comment-48353</link>
		<dc:creator>Thomas Barclay</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 16 Oct 2009 18:54:29 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://thewoodwhisperer.com/which-comes-first-planer-or-jointer-question-of-the-week/#comment-48353</guid>
		<description>Whereas I agree on the value of good hand tools (and really undrestanding how to use them), I&#039;d disagree with you on the good + cheap part. A good bedrock design #4 plane will set you back hundreds of dollars, as an example. 

Crappy hand tools are bad - as a friend and I found out while taking part of the Fine Furniture making course at Rosewood Studios in Almonte, Ontario. He had a combination square that turned out not to be and it was a mid-priced brand (Not a Starrett, like the school was using for instance, which is a bit pricey but an excellent tool). 

You&#039;ll pay a fair bit if you want good planes, scrapers, draw knives, chisels, and so forth, but they are worth every penny. To be able to prepare boards for finish without touching a sander or sandpaper is amazing, as one example. 

I will also point out that you may have to or want to finish lumber with your hand tools, but taking a crooked, bowed, and twisted rough-sawn board to six-way square with a hand plane is a labour of love and time. Using a planer or jointer to get it there fast (and then a plane to get the finish beautiful) is much faster. So one can still see value in power tools. 

Find places like Rosewood, take a course from a fantastic teacher who knows hand tools thoroughly, and buy some good ones - you&#039;ll be amazed at the things you can do and how beautiful they en up being. Just expect them to take a bit longer to finish.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Whereas I agree on the value of good hand tools (and really undrestanding how to use them), I&#8217;d disagree with you on the good + cheap part. A good bedrock design #4 plane will set you back hundreds of dollars, as an example. </p>
<p>Crappy hand tools are bad &#8211; as a friend and I found out while taking part of the Fine Furniture making course at Rosewood Studios in Almonte, Ontario. He had a combination square that turned out not to be and it was a mid-priced brand (Not a Starrett, like the school was using for instance, which is a bit pricey but an excellent tool). </p>
<p>You&#8217;ll pay a fair bit if you want good planes, scrapers, draw knives, chisels, and so forth, but they are worth every penny. To be able to prepare boards for finish without touching a sander or sandpaper is amazing, as one example. </p>
<p>I will also point out that you may have to or want to finish lumber with your hand tools, but taking a crooked, bowed, and twisted rough-sawn board to six-way square with a hand plane is a labour of love and time. Using a planer or jointer to get it there fast (and then a plane to get the finish beautiful) is much faster. So one can still see value in power tools. </p>
<p>Find places like Rosewood, take a course from a fantastic teacher who knows hand tools thoroughly, and buy some good ones &#8211; you&#8217;ll be amazed at the things you can do and how beautiful they en up being. Just expect them to take a bit longer to finish.</p>
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		<title>By: Frank Kovach</title>
		<link>http://thewoodwhisperer.com/which-comes-first-planer-or-jointer/#comment-47590</link>
		<dc:creator>Frank Kovach</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 25 Sep 2009 03:20:56 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://thewoodwhisperer.com/which-comes-first-planer-or-jointer-question-of-the-week/#comment-47590</guid>
		<description>Do you have a special sled or jig for that technique?  I have never heard about it, but now it sounds so obviously simply brilliant that it has to work.  But I can&#039;t quite picture in my head how you&#039;re holding the wood in place.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Do you have a special sled or jig for that technique?  I have never heard about it, but now it sounds so obviously simply brilliant that it has to work.  But I can&#8217;t quite picture in my head how you&#8217;re holding the wood in place.</p>
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