Torsion Box Workbench – Viewer Project
This Viewer Project is a modern workbench made by Bud. I know when I build my next workbench, I will be leaning in this direction. So I was very pleased to see Bud’s design. Let’s check it out!
I think most people have an unhealthy addiction to tradition, old is not always best. I really like your “best tool for the job” approach, I always want to work that way. Recently I’ve been trying to trim every project down to absolute functionality, both in production and use. I’ve tried to let the use of each piece dictate everything about it (size, shape, material, finish), while also finding the quickest and cheapest way to produce whatever that thing may be (so long as all functionality is retained). The first thing I tried with this method is my latest workbench, I’ll briefly highlight the main advantages over traditional bench making methods and materials.
Cost – this bench cost me about $80 altogether.
Time – No glue ups, no material surfacing, altogether it took me around 8 hours.
Tools – No jointer, no planer, this bench can easily be made with a minimal tool set.
The top is flat and stable, never needs to be flattened. This design is extremely rigid, no chance of racking. The leg-vise chop is also a torsion box, lending the same benefits. 8/4 lumber is expensive and all solid lumber warps over time, not a torsion box. I made the chop from scrap 1/2″ and 3/8″ ply, its light and flat. I have a nice solid bench (modeled after the 21st century workbench by Bob Lang) and I can’t think of a single reason why I’d rather use it than the torsion bench. There are no drawbacks. This bench is cheaper, faster, easier, more stable, and every bit as functional.
So what do you think? Blasphemy or brilliance? Is there still a reason to labor over a solid wood bench? I think with the addition of a sacrificial/replaceable top, Bud’s bench has a lot of appeal for me, personally. And that’s the key isn’t it? A workbench is a very personal piece of functional furniture, so to each his own. But I would love to hear your opinions on this concept.
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I love this work bench! Ever since I saw the torsion box assembly table video, I’ve been trying to figure out why I would want a solid wood workbench. I guess a lighter table might slide around in some operations.
How does that leg vice work for you? I’d think that if you put something in the top and cranked down, it would go out of parallel.
I would have those same concerns Chip. Here’s how I would address them. First off, torsion boxes are incredibly heavy. And if I needed more weight, I would simply fill the torsion box cavities with playground sand.
And for any areas where you plan on placing clamps, or vices, just add extra reinforcement to prevent flexing. Would take a little strategy, but should be easy enough to work around.
Sand in the cavities will add weight and might have the added benefit of dampening some of the shocks (helping to save floors from damage!). Just make sure that the underneath is strong enough and doesn’t “leak” – otherwise they’ll be sand everywhere!
I think I agree with his ideas.
As cool as it is to have a beautiful workbench and nice shop furniture made of hardwoods and cabinet grade plywood, it seems like a tremendous use of time and money, which I feel like I’d rather spend on “real” projects. My time is limited and my shop is in a dirty basement so the effort would really be wasted in my case. I also don’t have lots of high quality scraps like someone who is a career woodworker might have.
Cool project, I’d actually like to see MORE pictures and hear more details, for instance, it appears that the bottom supports only go in one direction where most other torsion boxes I’ve seen have supports in both directions.
-Jer
100% support this idea. My workbench is made from ply, mdf and a little bit of softwood. It has a front vice and dog holes and works exactly the same as any other work bench. I don’t understand why anyone would use beautiful precious hardwood to pound on!
This is the kind of stuff that makes woodworkers so cool. To take a classical idea and pimp it out with modern techniques is so awesome. I am one of those with an addiction to old methods but I love to see how others tweak them. I’m thinking Bud must be an engineer to think like this.
Oh, horror! Do you mean to tell me that a workbench is merely a TOOL, and not a piece of heirloom-quality fine furniture, a masterwork? That building workbenches as works of art should no longer be the central focus of my woodworking? I suppose the next thing you’ll be telling us is that we can do woodworking without a dozen Lie-Nielsen planes and Wentzloff saws.
This workbench is ugly as sin, but a work of art in its own right. The care that was taken is evident in close inspection of the innards of the leg vise chop. Good job!
I like it. I may love it. A bit more detail would help but I think I get the idea, but I think it would take me several days to figure out/sketch it up (not Sketchup) so I could start cutting and screwing.
I built a workbench earlier this year that will get me by for a while. But I can see this as a distinct possibility. Maybe next year.
I like the no glue up.
While I like the idea of the stay flat top I am concerned about chasing the bench around while working on it. That bench can’t weigh much. Being a mostly hand tool user I need a bench with some heft to it.
Also you can’t add more dog holes due to the hollowness of the top. It really depends on the type of work you do. However if you need to hold down an oddly shaped project you are limited to the one row of dog holes and F style clamps.
As far as a sacrificial top you can add a sheet of 1/2″ MDF or plywood to the top of any bench.
I made one similar to this about 5 years ago. For the sacrificial top, I use a sheet of that brown high-density fiberboard (3/32 thick, I think it is) covered with two layers of medium cut shellac (1.5 pound cut). The top sets in a 1/4 inch depression in the sub-surface so popping it in and out is a breeze when the time comes to replace it or when i need to access my dog holes. I eventually made two working tops, one with dog holes one without, and I just swap them out depending on my needs at the moment.
As for the bench “walking” problems, yes, mine has that problem. Solving that was easy though, I have a shelf spread between the legs on each end that I just set 40 # boxes of cat litter or laundry detergent on. When I need to move it, just pull the litter containers off, the rest of the time it us a useful place to store the stuff.
I tried a torsion box from MDF and while it worked well for a while over time it did droop and eventually started de-laminating (poor choice of material) I assembled using biscuits and glue but it still failed.(it was a pain to take apart) I used the box as a base with casters and built up from there for a lathe bench. One of the lathes weighs over a hundred pounds and I am not sure about the other one so, I guess it was just to much for it. I still have one that I created around a contractor’s saw and an old Delta table top it holds all the “Necesary’s” for the saw and the planer, a welder and I used a Delta table top add-on from a large fence kit and put a router hole in it. This too is on casters so it can be moved out of the way.
I think Bud’s project is a winner and would love to see a 5 year (after usage) review as I think we all would do things differently after using them for a while.
Very interesting. I am always interested in seeing new ideas in the cost effective workbench area. I would love to hear more about this bench and be kept upto date on how it is working out and any problems that have come up and how they have been overcome.
Bob
I would also like to hear others’ opinions. I’m relatively new to woodworking still (3-4 years of random experience) and have been intrigued by the torsion box principles. Torsion box doesn’t have the grandeur of an “old school” bench, but seems just as effective and much less labor intense to construct.
Again, I would like to hear what more knowledgeable woodworkers have to say.
I am new to woodworking as well. My work bench is a box with drawers. It is used for working…..not to increase my ego. If it is functional for you to do the things you need to do and fits your budget, that should be the important thing. Make, buy or trade for whatever makes you happy to be in shop. I am learning that you don’t have to have every new tool to make something beautiful. Uhh did I just say that…I think it is time to back off the denatured alcohol. :)
I’m glad you ended up with a blog post about Bud’s bench. I was really diappointed reading the WTO write-up and seeing it not link to any posts or pictures.
Marc – you need to forward this over to Chris Schwarz and see if he’s willing to comment on it for all of us to see.
Very cool – I love it. I’m also working on a torsion box top for my workbench (find more info on The Wood Whisperer Community Site! http://community.thewoodwhisperer.com/profiles/blog/list?user=2m32c9u9o5hda)
It’s coming along very nicely, though of course I cannot comment on its every day use or longevity, as people seemed concerned with.
I don’t quite know the final weight yet, but I’m sure it’s not nearly as heavy as a solid workbench top. I did fill in some of the void areas to put in bench dogs and lag bolts for a vice. Not sure how that’ll work out yet, as I haven’t drilled into those areas yet.
I’m very much in favor of inexpensive, functional approaches to bench creation. The one thing I’d add to this torsion box bench is a bunch of blocks inside so I could drill dog holes that would support holdfasts. Otherwise it seems like a good idea to me. Save the hardwood for furniture.
Cheers — Larry
Very nice. I’d like to know more about the vises, as I would like to make my own custom front and tail vises. What materials did you use and where did you purchase them? Thanks.
I built a solid maple workbench and I do enjoy looking at it every time I go into my shop. The top is finger jointed western maple and the legs are soft maple. It still is not heavy enough. I learned a great deal building it and I do really get pleasure out of just looking at it.
Bud, I have a question. The leg vise may not be a “traditional” workbench item, but it certainly dates back a long way. However, I was wondering if you will be following up with a sliding “dead-man” to go with the leg vise?
Since torsion is “the twisting of an object due to an applied torque” I see that your bench addresses torsion primarily on one axis. I’m guessing that with the double wall on the one side of the top edge and the blocking on the other side addresses to some degree torsion on the other axis. That would simplify the standard torsion box construction.
Are you adding anything to the foot bolts to keep them from sliding on the floor from lateral forces?
I really like it. I am about one year away from building a real bench. I think I will use a torsion box as well. I really liked Rick’s pour on epoxy though!
I hope the builder can supply us with sketchup drawings and/or diagrams and cut lists to help build or evaluate this design better. Like some of the others, I am new at woodworking and it is becoming evident that I need a bench to become better. Low cost and easy repIr and maintenance are a big plus. But because my skills and confidence are less, I need better guidance. Thank you
I love it, fantastic idea! I made Marc’s torsion box assembly bench and love it. I also wanted hte classis Ruobo bench, but making it out of maple was like $1k!
I used Doug Fir from Home Depot (yeah yeah) that came in 4×4’s Kiln Dried, it cost me about $100 and you know what, it worlks just fine and when I dent, scratch, or generally abuse it I don’t care.
BTW the DF classic bench top already needs flattening, the Torsion top not a bit and I made the torsion box first.
Cheers,
Ivan
When it comes to designing a workbench it is a personal matter.
The best solution will be arrived at by understanding what your individual needs are for the way that you work.
Building the bench to fit those needs is the right way to build a bench. It may need to be heavy and stationary. It may need to be lighter and mobile for small shops to maintain flexibility of space.
Storage will also vary based on personal needs.
I like the torsion box construction idea as an alternative. Another alternative which I am using and which is working well is a solid wood door (commercial fire proof door). This product is very heavy- designed to not warp and it is flat and level. I got mine for free- contacted a commercial builder and picked up one that had been ordered incorrectly or had a scratch. I have scratched it plenty since then! I cut it down from the 36″ width to 24″- mounted to vises on it and it works well.
I enjoy the web page. I am not a guild member but will be after Christmas. Keep up the good work!
I’ve been weighing this topic out for some time. My story is that I have been using an “assembly table” I built from plans from New Yankee. It was my first shop table as I needed a place for small projects of home tasks a few years. It’s been awesome! However, as I move into building furniture, I now need a real workbench. Since the table is very similar and based on a torsion box design. From an engineering perspective, building a bench the same way seemed appealing, but I thought my lack of long term experience is why the cons weren’t revealed to me in thinking this way. Obviously I was wrong as this bench looks robust, very functional, affordable, and uniquely flexible in the overall design.
I may drop some old insulation into the openings to dull the sound of hard strikes as my workshop is under a living space in the home.
Looks like I have another project added to my to do list for the holiday season. A gift of a new workbench to myself. Excuse me now while I fire-up SketchUp and start the design….
Kick butt….
When I was up at WIA, Blum tools had a torsion box workbench for sale. That thing was impressive… and this one is just out-of-its-mind awesome.
I’ve always said that woodworkers should go ugly early. Those pretty gussied-up benches are a sight to behold, but once you put the first ding/gouge/scratch in it, you will bawl your eyes out.
I say innovate. That’s how the Romans invented the plane and the Shakers invented the circular saw blade.
As for the long term survivability of the piece, I’d have to say that it should hold up pretty well. as I said previously in my reply to Michael, I’ve had a similar design (though my legs are 2×6’s with 2×4 spreaders in both directions, since that’s what I had at the time) that has survived 5 years of abuse quite well.
My only suggestion is for those looking to install a bottom mounted clamp, make sure you reinforce your lag-screw mounting area. I eventually ripped mine out and ended up replacing the entire mounting area and remounted my vice using 1/2 inch bolts (reversed so that the nuts are on the outside of the carcass) and epoxied in place.
Luckily my garage floor is almost perfectly flat, so I haven’t needed leveling feet, but to further help with the bench walking problem, I’ve added small sections of rubber floor mat. Between that and the ability to load/unload ballast, walking is not a problem anymore.
for my next minor mod, I’m toying with the idea of hanging some store bought cabinets on the 2×4 stretchers underneath the worktop, for additional storage. If I do that, though, I’m also gonna need to install some retractable wheels. Probably use some toggle clamps for the retracting mechanism so I don’t have to worry about manually lifting a (possibly heavily) loaded bench.
Great project and workbench design! A good, solid, functional, but inexpensive workbench has been my “next project” for about a year now. Until it actually becomes my “current project,” I’ve been keeping a file of designs and ideas I like and this one is certainly going into that file!
I’m glad you guys like it. First of all I have no plans for the bench, I generally map out the dimensions (8′L x 35″H x 30″W) I want and go for it. I used home depot ply everywhere except for the dog section which is construction grade white pine (much more stable than fir). I prefer ply to MDF because it’s lighter, more rigid, and cheaper.
Over such a small span with so many cross members I didn’t find it necessary to add the extra webbing generally associated with torsion boxes, at a certain point you’re just adding more weight for the assembly to hold up (which wouldn’t be a bad thing for people requiring a heavier bench). It is very rigid, the long perimeter stretchers combined with the ‘torsion’ strength of the skins is more than enough to keep the top from flexing. In the name of over building I even screwed down a 3/4″ piece of ply on top of the original 3/8″ skin.
I added the leveling bolts because I currently use this bench as my out-feed table, I added thick rubber furniture feet to the bolts to minimize movement.
I will be adding a sliding dead man and a t-track across the length of the bench near the rear. I’ll use different hold-downs in the t-track to substitute for holdfasts.
Also, the leg-vise has tremendous clamping power, it holds work very firmly long before it starts flexing.
The leg vise looks to be about 2″. I have been putting of the need to make a long planer sled using a torsion design. How much more ridged do you think it would be with say 50% greater thickness and twice the thickness. I have been putting of the need to make a long planer sled using a torsion design.
Very impressive,
i thought on building my first bench as torsion box too, but think on using solid constructionwood in small dimensions, maybe 1/2 inch thick for the strips. In my understanding that would bring more woodfiber in the right direction, due to the fact that plywood is laminated at 90 degree. What do u think? Would this choice of material lead to warping.
Thomas
I think this looks great… I was just able to secure enough solid wood for a workbench base but have been contemplating top materials, this might just do that trick.
Related but in a totally different direction, I recommend for anyone looking to build a bench, go talk to the people where you get your lumber, or ask around and try to find some small outfit. I had thought a hardwood bench was out of reach (price-wise) until I found this 1-man operation, and I just told him rough dimensions of what I needed and said I wasn’t picky about the species. I now have enough lumber to build almost 2 bench bases out of red oak for $20 because it was a “short” log he didn’t think he could use.
Traditional Vs. Modern
Nice
I love it!!!!! It will definately be part of my workshop. I built two 4×4 work tables out of treated 4×4’s and 3/4 ply finished on one side, and put them on wheels. Best tables for working on projects and then shoving them out of the way. Thanks Bud for sharing!!!
I like this idea. I’ve never been one to have much of a desire to build a fancy traditional work bench. In fact the one I’m using now, the top is made from one inch particle board with 1/4″ Masonite skins laminated on each side. It’s supported by a torsion box of sorts made from regular K & D 2X4’s, which is mounted to a stand made from K&D lumber. It’s served me well for over 20 years now. I also like the idea of having a bench made so you can replace the top skin, which I can do with mine, by simply screwing down a new piece of 1/4″ Masonite.Maybe we should all submit pictures of our work benchs to stimulate ideas, as I am getting close to wanting to build a new one.
I am a beginner wood worker and have discovered that there are many opinions out there which is great for the new comer; however, I have heard great things about specific tools and I for one woould like to believe a person purchases a quailty tool one time, but this is not factual as things continue to change.
I have worked in a field where chenge was not accepted easily (as most of us observe in our every day lives). I have to disagree with that philosophy of fighting change. Years ago many would have not purchaseed tools like Festool because of it’s plastic parts. No one in the wild west would have purchased Glock handguns due to their plastics, but today many are seeing real benefits to these specific tools.
I think this is an idea that should be tried and further worked on. I for one would only contemplate this type of construction without one of two or perhaps both types of input. First the history check after a couple of years of trial and error… if it worked then build it. Secondly if a good recognized engineer or experienced wood working designer placed his or her stamp of approval.
Just an opinion Greg
I emailed Chris Schwarz, Editor of Popular Woodworking and author of Workbenches, and asked if he could throw down an opinion on this one. Here’s what he has to say:
“Having not worked on his bench or any torsion-box bench, my opinion is worth butkus. Honestly.
That said, here is what I would wonder about if I were considering this bench for my shop.
1. Will it be heavy enough for handwork? I can push 200 pounds around with some operations.
2. What will happen when I start mortising on it? Will the work bounce up when I strike it?
3. What will I do when I want to add dog holes later on? I tend to add a dog hole here and there.
4. Will the plate and screws on the wagon vise hold up for a long time? I had this problem on my Roubo until I bolted on a big end cap.
5. Is my plywood really dry? Our crappy home-center stuff warps worse than solid.
All that said, he’s headed in the right direction for workholding. Adding a sliding deadman is a good idea as well. And this bench is a heck of a lot better than most commercial ones.”
Quite Interesting. Alot of feedback! I read everyone’s comments too, trying not to form an opinion but I just can’t help it. I’m sure the bench will be fine, adequate for working with. It’s just that its not for me. I want to really like it; just like everyone’s comments, but I can’t get myself to cross that line. Don’t get me wrong, I’m not a purist, everyone can use whatever they feel comfortable with. Heck, my dad’s bench that I remember growing up with was just a door on a base and I thought it was the greatest (albeit little tall for me, but great nonetheless). It just doesn’t do it for me. It gives me the impression that it was put together to “make do”.
No, I haven’t made my “dream” bench either. Mine was made with 2×4’s and a section of bowling alley lane top. I will eventually make an awesome cabinet style base to go with the massive top. And when I do, I will take my time and make it with as much pride as I make all my furniture, cabinets and other items. I don’t this for a living like some of you, I do it for fun. I like spending time making anything, even if it is shop furniture.
Just my thoughts, Tim
Wow! This project has really caused a stir. I think it’s great. Weight was my initial concern, but I like Marc’s idea with the sand. I’ve been wanting to build a solid wood bench but I have a 4 x 8 Torsion box that I do everything on right now. I think this is the way to go and you could probably “pretty it up” pretty easily and cheaply.
If it works, party on!
If it doesn’t, modify the design and party on, anyway!
I love the idea of function first and I have two 8′x30″ utility torsion benches along one wall of my shop. Of course the woodworker in me had too trim them out with Birch hardwood to make them look pretty. I use these benches for general work space and not as a “workbench” per se. They are 3 1/2″ thick and are supported on their ends and on the back edge but no center support. Even with me standing (190 lbs) dead center of the 8 foot span, there is no visible deflection what so ever. Oh btw they are 4 years old and still solid as can be. They are a bit hollow sounding when pounding so if I were to make an actual “woodworking bench” I would add some deadening material too the interior chambers. Perhaps some expanding foam or sand. For all the questions regarding making a torsion box (how thick should the skins be? what is more important the skins or the grid material? etc) see “More woodworker’s essential facts, formulas & short-cuts” By Ken Horner. Horner is a retired chemist and total math geek who turned his incredible grasp of science into two books of “rules of thumb” advise (and for us fellow science geeks he includes the math as well) His discussion of torsion box principles is by far the best I have ever seen!
Thanks for the tip. I’m always interested in the science behind why/how things work.
My philosophy on this would be. I know id rather be working on a cool project than spend a week building myself a workbench that I know in the long run is going to get all beaten up, stained on, screwed in, cut in, glued on…. If you want a fancy workbench, and have the time and money for, by all means go right ahead, but i know you’ll be crying the second you ding it up or scratch it.
I certainly don’t think Bud’s bench is blasphemy. I think the concept is a pretty intelligent use of materials, and with some tweaking (I would be concerned about weight) benches like this could be the way of the future.
I spent a lot more than $200 on my bench (never did total up the cost of materials and supplies I used, but it was easily in the $700 to $800 range including vises), and though I **LIKE** my bench, I’m not sure it is any more or less functional than Bud’s design.
Let’s face it … the materials for conventional hardwood benches won’t be getting any cheaper, and I would rather spend my money on what I will create with the bench than on the bench itself.
I like the idea. I, too, would like to see more pictures and/or a well done, humorous video by Marc. Maybe he could get Bud to co-host the video and ‘whisper’ the instructions to Marc while he builds one, you know, like “psst, Marc, it’s up-side-down”. Anyway, I like the bench and need one for my garage shop. This is the approach I would take since a ‘traditional’ bench is beyond my price range at the moment.
great article on Bud’s work bench. is there a link where Bud might share his measurments. i like the design and it looks like one i would try to build. i could guess at the sizes but it would be better to use what Bud has already figured out and maybe modify from there.
Thanks, Larry
The workbench I just finished is a hybrid design. I built a torsion box but along the front edge I extended the top and bottom an inch and attached a poplar rail in the front for bench dogs. it is rock solid and a great reference surface. I was able to build it with a drill, a contractors saw and a pneumatic brad nailer. I’ll be sending pictures as soon as I complete my new tool storage rack.
MDF torsion boxes are great
Do you have pics or diagrams of how you incorporated the bench dogs into the torsion box?
Thanks for any info.
Todd B.
It’s a great idea…But I wish I saw some solid wood. I dunno…For me, I’d think about doing a combination of the torsion box with solid wood. Kinda like how Marc did his assembly table. I’d want the benefits of the torsion box, but the heft and look of throwing some solid wood on there. Right now I use my bench for handtools…so I need heft.
Maybe its just me, but I feel like I work better when the things around look nice.
“My bench looks darn good. I better make something that looks equally good if not better!”
This is a very unique concept. The weight of the torsion box setup would be a great benefit, and it’s also much cheaper than a standard solid wood bench top. $80 dollars is downright unheard of in workbench designs. I probably won’t be building a workbench anytime soon in my life, but I’m trying to get as many different design options as possible. I had never even considered a torsion box assembly. This, and the LVL workbench design in Pop. Woodworking really show how far we’ve come in designing this crucial part of our shop. I think it’s pretty awesome!
I love it, Mark may be right it might be a little lite. To add weight try lead or have a weld shop make legs from steel.
Bud: Great bench, its all about practicality. The torsion box design we know is stable and there shouldn’t be any reason this won’t function as well as an expensive solid bench. Can you provide some sort of material list, not so much to be followed but as a starting point for our own designs. Great job!
I like it but I haven’t used a workbench yet. I’m using a metal desk that I got for free from my office closing. I’m working out of my van, now.
I have mixed feelings about the bench. While I applaud the low cost, ingenuity and practicality of the design, I think for the hobbyist there can be more to the woodworking experience than pure practicality. While I couldn’t think of a better bench solution for a school, or production shop, I have to confess that I like the look and warmth of a traditional workbench. For some, visual appeal is of no interest, but if I’m going to spend the next few decades working on a bench, I’d just as soon it be beautiful to look at, quiet to work on and adds visual warmth to the shop. There is nothing wrong with a shop being an inviting place to spend time. And a traditional bench does a lot to help create that atmosphere. You see pictures of some classic workshops and they just make you want to go in and spend time there. To me, that’s a good thing.
I don’t have an expensive, hardwood bench myself. I don’t have the space for one, or the money to blow on one. But if I did, I would get one in a heartbeat.
A Prius will get you where you want to go as well as a Porche, but which one is more fun to drive–and why?
I don’t furnish my living room with plywood furniture because I enjoy spending my time in a pleasant environment. And I don’t see any reason why a home workshop has to necessarily be cold and utilitarian in character. The great thing about a hobby is you can afford to waste time, money and effort doing something that is totally impractical, but that gives you pleasure. If a person enjoys working on a traditional bench, using high quality tools, and can afford to do it without hardship, I say why not? If you couldn’t care less about the esthetics of your tools or environment and are only interested in the quickest and most cost efficient way to get a job done, then I think Bud’s bench would be hard to improve on.
I don’t criticize Bud’s approach, but I think traditional design is just as valid depending on the woodworker and what gives them pleasure. Most of us are, after all, in this for the fun of it.
DD
This is a great blog on an obviously interesting topic. Thanks Marc for making this happen. I have a few comments on several of the above posts (some of this is from a post I made on Lumberjocks):
The absence of cross members in the web will have a detrimental effect in restraining twisting of the entire box. However, if the longitudinal members are adhered tightly to the end pieces with the proper glue/fasteners, the twisting effect should be considerably lessened. In addition, the leg structure will also add considerably to the torsional rigidity.
I don’t think the short pieces really need to be in all that straight of a line. If you have ever taken a hollow core door apart, it is stiffened with strips of corrugated cardboard set on edge, which aren’t placed particularly neatly. These doors will stay straight and true for many years.
When I was an Airframe Repairman in the Army in Vietnam, the walkways on top of the Huey helicopters, most all aircraft decks, and Jet Ranger bodies (fuselages) were two parallel aluminum sheets filled with an aluminum honecombed heavy foil. The biggest problem with these was adhesive failure between the skin and the honeycomb, creating voids, which compromised the panel’s strength.
It should not matter much how the internal web is assembled, so long as it is firmly adhered to the skins. I would use a good glue and use brads to hold the skin down while the glue dries.
I would not use sand to deaden the “thump” or hollow sound, but most any acoustic insullation (fiberglass batts, spray in foam, etc. would work. The weight of the sand on the bottom skin will tend to weaken the adhesive joints between the skin and web, causing a structural failure when the joint fails. I would add any additional weight needed as low as possible on the bench structure. This will keep the weight center down low, decreasing the tendency to tip or “walk”.
I was also thinking that for a workbench top, a 1/2 inch work surface might be too fragile. I think I would use two 3/4 inch MDF or plywood sheets for the top of the box so that you have some flex strength in the skin so as not to break the adhesive bond. I like the torsion box idea for the bench top, especially if it is to double as an assembly table.
– Doug, Bakersfield, CA – I measured twice, cut it twice, and it is still too short!
Excellent piece of work Bud. I really like the way you incorporated the leg vise. I am a big fan of utilitarian shop furniture. I have recently been building my own shop (I’ll send pic’s to Marc later of some of the more interesting things I’ve done) most of which is a decent grade plywood with cheap pine accents and flat panel doors.
I will be interested to see if the torsion box holds it’s shape over time though without the lenthwise supports. Is it possible for you to post, let’s say 6 months from now and let us know how the box is holding up?
Great bench! I wish I would’ve seen this design before I built mine. Are there any plans available that I can store away so I can build this bench years from now?
+1 for Aggie33.
Who cares if it is a work of art or a pile of ….wood. If it works, thats the bottom line.
All the rest is Blah Blah Blah !
haven’t read the comments, just the highlights of the original posting.
being in the middle of this move, I have to admit, I like this idea. I’ve got this set of metal shelves that can be configured in either of two ways: vertically (five shelves, one spanning the two sets of leg pieces) or horizontally (three shelves on one, two on the other). Height on both of these, when set to horizontally, is about the height of a workbench. Seeing this posting, I’m thinking of doing a torsion box top for this idea.
I’d guess that the top portion of the workbench would need to be thicker if you plan on banging on it. But I like the concept. And for those on a budget, it’s cheaper to get 1/2″ plywood than 8/4 ash.
Kudos for the creativity, kudos for the effort, and Good Job for the workbench in general!
As any other novice wood worker, I have been trying to figure out how to make my own bench with my limited skills and tools. After watching the torsion box episode I think I can make this and in the process greatly improve the quality of my work.
But I have one question: The dog holes only seem to go into the top. I did not see any exit holes on the bottom. What happens when you get that dog that is just a bit too lose, will it be rolling around on the inside? Am I missing something?
Love the bench. I have an el cheapo made of softwood and MDF and though it works well I’m still dreaming of a solid ash roubo. I do have a question however, I notice that you built your plywood bench on top of another bench with a twin screw front vise. I’m trying to decide which vise to add onto my next bench. Right now I have quick release vises at both front and tail positions. I mostly use the tail vise but I hate the fact that the dog hole line has to be so far from the face of the bench. Added to that the chop sags when extended out and it’s a real pain. Good excuse to upgrade to a wagon or shoulder vise. If I do go this route, is a leg or front twin screw better for the front vise?
Nice work, I say. While not exactly the way I would have gone building a workbench (and I didn’t) I can certainly appreciate your resourcefulness. I think if you build a bench that works for you and you like it then you’ve built a great bench. Whether that’s a torsion box plywood bench, a solid hardwood traditional bench or something in between, I think the true measure of it comes in how it serves it’s owner.
I’m afraid you’ll have to add me to the column of traditionalists. I want my bench to have strength and weight. I also like the looks of a traditional bench.
a workbench made to work on???? out of plywood???? For shame!!!!!! You know I love your new bench, Bud, and particularly love the dog leg vise. I feel so shameful for my plans for a maple workbench, now. Like a needlessly decadent indulgence from a wasteful, capitalist culture. I’m gonna go shoot some brads to lessen my elitist guilt. tongue firmly planted in cheek, by the way :)
woodworker, torsion box pioneer, and renaissance man. Bud rocks.
Nice bench – I built a torsion box table for my miter saw and general utility, 8FT by 18 inches. I used 1/2 inch plywood and 2 by 2 furring strips from Lowes. Incredibly strong, but it has about an inch of warp in it. I had the plywood resting against a wall for a few weeks, I think that did it. I plan on making a MDF torsion box top to replace it at some point. After using my basic version for a month or so, I’m leaning toward the LVL bench. The torsion box is strong and flat (if you start with flat material….)but if you are hammering something on it, the hammer/work does bounce as Mr. Schwarz mentioned. A solid top of some kind is in my future.
Well, shoot.
I was over the road truck driver for several years just aching to do wood work – good wood work, as in no nails or screws allowed and as much hand cut joinery as I could develop the skill to do. It is intended to supplement retirement income. Still got a ways to go but the greatest progress noted (it may be a mental thing) was after I gave a neighbor the 4′x8′ plywood bench I made – legs and stretchers of 2×4’s and 2×6’s, top of 2 sheets 3/4 ply with 1/4 hardboard on top, and 2 vices,3/4 ply full bottom shelf as well. and replaced it with a Sjobergs cabinet makers bench.
The Sjoberg does look nice, and it takes up less room in the kitchen than the other did. The Sjoberg – the mental thing I mentioned – tells me junk work is not allowed, so much of what I have done gets cut up and thrown out.
An added benefit of the Sjoberg is that it also freed up enough room in the kitchen that I have not only enough room to keep another smaller bench there, but my 6″ joiner – on wheels stays there and, it opened up enough additional space that I now can roll my 14″ band saw in and out of the pantry to re-saw as needed. And, with all that I can still access the sink, washer and dryer, microwave, range and refrigerator. And there is more!
The added benefit of the Sjoberg is that I now have lots more room to move about the radial arm saw, table saw, drill press and 13″ planer which are located in the living room (closer to the wood rack which extends down the hall towards the bedrooms and bath) with another bench on one wall. Even more flexibility in the “shop” will come this week when I rip the carpet out of the living room and get casters put on the table and radial arm saws. I anticipate also being able to gather all my clamps in one place.
Next major decision is which bedroom should become the finishing room. I halted the building of my library system pending that decision, which is a pain because I have books still in boxes and on the floor.
Oh, I did get upset with my self a couple times for not putting something under my work with a hand saw and when I drilled through a piece, not once but twice! and into my bench. But I did not cry! Had a chisel take a piece of it as well. Hell, it is a “Work” bench, if it is pristine, then you not doing anything productive.
Perhaps I can do a video so you see I not lie about it. lol
This is a great design. I have been looking for a quick inexpensive work bench that would provide the functionality of a traditional workbench without the cost. While the making of a traditional workbench out of hardwood may be a right of passage, and a personal experience and provide a great deal of satisfaction, I really need to accomplish a number of other projects. Both for my learning experience and to justify the effort such a bench would take. This bench is a great alternative.
Looks great. I have been wanting a better bench for sometime, but the fancy benchs are not in my price range. I would rather buy some equipment/tools for the price of a solid. (I need a joiner and planer!)
Maybe this has already been said in one of the previous 64 posts … but here goes. When I saw Marc’s torsion box table project for the first time, I had never even heard of such a thing. After watching it and thinking, it made a lot of sense as an absolutely stable assembly table. It was also a large horizontal surface … and we all know what happens to open horizontal surfaces in a shop (especially in the middle of a project). But Marc’s torsion box table used some of the support elements of Norm Abrams’ outfeed table and then Marc made his own outfeed table with some mods from Norm and gave some credit to Norm. I made my own connector/outfeed table that connects my two back-to-back table saws … and my table use elements from both Marc’s tables and Norm’s.
I really like where we are going with this because it puts strength and stability above weight and mass … lighter, flatter, more stable and cheaper. You have to like the concept.
But … an assembly/torsion box table is not the same as a 2″ thick solid maple work bench. If need be, I can hit almost anything with almost any hammer and not worry that the bench won’t be able to withstand the severe concentrated blow. That is about the only situation that would concern me with this “skeletal” design.
Just my 2-cents.
One more thing …
I already have the “classic” double vise bench of solid maple. It is over 15-years old and is as good as ever. It is a total gorilla in strength but it is small, as per the original design. This is a shot of my little maple bench … http://api.ning.com/files/u*M3R7TCF2jloUraWvm21qtcIeTKyhOgrCdW8Lcyfrg_/DSC02187.JPG
That said, my bench will do some very specific things that a “skeletal” design plywood bench will not do. But, if I had the room, my next “bench” would be made like this “skeletal” design. Flat … light … cheap … hard to beat.
One that that seems to be missing from the dicusion (forgive me if I didn’t get all 64 comments on the first skim through) is how the workbench helps in your woodworking evolution. I spent most of 2009 working on a version of Bob Lang’s 21st Century workbench. It’s nearly done (I stopped to get some xmas projects done) and plan to finish it early next year. It’s made of Ash and it didn’t break the bank. I got 100 bf of Rough 8/4 Ash for $250 from my local hardwood supplier. Once I got that price I knew I’d make the whole thing instead of just the top out of Ash.
During this time period I learned to use a dado stack, hand cut dovetails, use a shoulder plane, cut mortise and tenons, and overcome obstacles I’ll run into on REAL projects. Granted, I could have learned some of these things with Bud’s bench but I don’t intend on using plywood and screws to make my furniture in the future.
Shop projects are great practice for the real deal so don’t overlook that when you make the decision on your next bench. And for the record, if I was doing this for a living I’d really consider the torsion box route since it’s fast, cheap, and easy.
I agree. Building a workbench in the past was one of the first things a woodworker did to learn his skills and prove his abilities. And the traditional workbench was the perfect platform for planing, sawing, chiseling, etc. It was the result of centuries of refinement and proven design.
I think the biggest difference today is that most cutting and shaping tasks are done on peripheral machines. The workbench has in many cases become nothing more than an assembly table. As such, the lightweight plywood construction is probably all that is needed by many if not most of today’s woodworkers. The traditional bench still has it’s place for those of us who enjoy using traditional tools. But it’s clear that one design will not fit all.
DD
Although a solid wood workbench top has the downside of needing to be periodically flattened, it’s one great advantage is that it CAN be flattened to the degree that you need, and reflattened if necessary.
One issue I see with a torsion box workbench top is that whether it is made of MDF or plywood, if it goes out of flat, there is no real good way of reflattening it again. A torsion box workbench top may not necessarily cup overall like a solid wood workbench top, but I can see small humps or hollows forming in the gaps between the structural elements of the torsion box, either due to time or to fluids spilling on the benchtop.
Great job on the workbench. All that really matters is it suits your needs and you enjoy utilizing your bench.
Jerry
Bud,
While I’m still gonna use that 100+ year old barn wood for my hand tool bench, I LOVE your bench. I’ll be contacting you for ideas to incorporate into the assembly table/outfeed table I’m building next. I want to be able to do some clamping on it and will need some bench dog holes to do some steam bending. Your approach is fresh and inspired. Form following function..who’d of thought!! Great design and execution, Bud!!!
Vic
I think you made a lot of friends around here with your design. I made a base for my TS using torsion box construction and it doesn’t sag at all even with the 1,000 plus pounds so I am sure you will neve have a problem unless you park your car on it!!
Nate
Nice design. Very utilitarian. Well thought out and well made. I used a bench like this for many years. Used it for painting and finishing and never had to suppress the weeping when I spilled purple PVC pipe primer on it like I did with my beautiful solid maple top recently. I like the idea of using a torsion box for a top, but i like the idea of a solid top better. personal preference.
Also my gut reaction upon seeing the construction of the top is that it seems to have too many ribs in the short direction and not enough in the long direction which is more likely to sag. Time will tell. And you said you had no glue ups. Not even your torsion box? How will it maintain rigidity with just screws holding it together?
I glued the torsion box, I guess I meant there are no clamping glue-ups as with solid lumber. Also, I’ve used two torsion assembly tables similar to this (they were actually even wider with fewer stretchers) and they never sagged. I am confident that this bench will stay flat.
I grew up as a weekend warrior in my father’s humble basement shop. He has always been fascinated with tools and building things. One of my best memories in the shop is actually helping him build his new workbench. We had recently moved and his previous work area was attached to the walls and thus went with the house.
The new workbench was a masterpiece to me as a 8yr old, though it was actually a very simple thing. We used standard 2x lumber for legs and frame work and a plywood top, it looked much like the photos above.
It has been almost 30 years now and he still has that thing! It has endured hundreds of projects, pounding, and splattering of various liquids. Not to mention the half dozen or more moves across the country and back that it has made.
It is a heavy thing, but the two of us (once I was a bit older) could move it around pretty easily. He moved once again about 2 years ago (finally closer to me) and has been upgrading his shop space- a one car garage bay that can expand into the second stall with the movable equipment stands we have built for it. Now he is also upgrading that old workbench. He has enclosed the once exposed frame so he has hide-away storage for some of his smaller tools/boxes. Some of which are tools that belonged to my great-grandfather!
So I guess what I am saying is that a simple, inexpensive workbench can not only be very functional and durable, but it can also give you cherished lifetime memories of working with your father, or son and ties you to the past (in this case my great-grandfather whom I remember very well). Thanks for the original post- and allowing me to think about working with my pop in his shop!
-Chris
I am finishing up my first work bench and already thinking about my next one. This looks like it could be my next and last bench. I definitively like it, I might just love it.
I think is awesome. I’ve been wanting to build a mobile workbench since I saw the torsion top video. I have a smaller shop so mobility is key. Having a slightly lighter but still strong, flat bench like this would be perfect.
Excellent concept. It’s possible to obtain detailed plans?
Great Fabrication, the concept isn’t new but the execution is invaluable. I would add 2 observations:
1: Use glue – Ply gains it’s strength from the run of wood fiber in each lamination, screwing does not join these fiber layers from separate boards together. Glue will allow better transfer of forces through joints and give better durability through lower load bearing.
2: Feet – Point load feet also creates issues with vibration harmonics, movement…. Use some left over ply to build small box frames around each pin foot so after leveling you can fill the box with rapid set concrete $5 a bag and have solid leg to floor load transfer.
These 2 steps will firm up your bench significantly.
I actually glued everything except for the sacrificial top and all the hardboard. Since I’m using this bench as an out-feed table I went with rubber leveling feet.