Comments on: The Difference a Film Makes

By: Pete

Pete — Thu, 10 Mar 2011 19:42:47 +0000

No matter what the finish, it’s definitely fun to require your guests to use coasters. Now, I’ve found that although wood pulp or fiber based products may carry more ascetic appeal, coasters made of petroleum based materials offer far greater protection from a wide range of beverages.

By: dyami plotke

dyami plotke — Wed, 15 Sep 2010 17:22:45 +0000

Great test Marc. I couldn’t agree more with your findings.

By: thewoodwhisperer

thewoodwhisperer — Mon, 16 Nov 2009 02:00:24 +0000

Well the decision to go water vs oil based is going to be completely up to you. If I were to make a recommendation though, I would start with something oil-based. Its easier to use, doesn’t have a big learning curve, and will protect the wood adequately for years to come.

Now applying water-based finish on interior furniture is perfectly fine. If the piece is left outside and exposed to the elements, that’s when that chalkiness will occur. But on interior pieces that won’t see any water exposure, it should be just fine. I have several pieces finished with water-based materials and they look great after several years.

And I don’t mean to confuse you further yet, but there are a number of different types of “water-based” finishes on the market with varying performance and application properties. I really wish the world of finishes was less confusing. That’s why you’ll find that when most folks find something that works, they just stick with it.

Now if you already have a water-based finish on the toybox, I would leave it as is. I don’t really see a compelling reason to topcoat with anything else.

By: Dan

Dan — Mon, 16 Nov 2009 01:34:51 +0000

So I read some of the threads and became a little confused. For a newer woodworker, which finish should I use for furniture oil or water based? I used a water based finish for a toybox I made but just read it will get chalky. How soon and can subsequent coats of oil base finish be palced on top? What to do…what to do?

By: thewoodwhisperer

thewoodwhisperer — Sun, 15 Nov 2009 16:21:42 +0000

Hey Larry. Technically, we should all be using flammable cabinets. But like you said, they are usually prohibitively expensive. So what i do is keep my cans sealed up and nicely organized in a big metal cabinet from Sams Club (less that $100). Its not going to completely prevent the spread of fire, but it should slow things down if something were to occur.

And the most important thing you can do to prevent fire, is to spread all oil rags out in a thin single layer, outside or on a concrete floor. Leave them there until they are crispy.

I can’t say that’s a complete formula for fire safety, but it works for me.

By: thewoodwhisperer

thewoodwhisperer — Sun, 15 Nov 2009 16:16:28 +0000

No tests were done on water-based poly. The focus was only on oil-based products. Thanks for the info.

By: mark williams

mark williams — Sun, 15 Nov 2009 15:36:20 +0000

Wow, alot of this is way over my head! Where is the discussion for those of us that studied social sciences? Maybe the social construction of varnish? Anyway, I clearly have alot to learn about finishes. Thanks for all the info!

By: Larry Dufault

Larry Dufault — Sun, 15 Nov 2009 14:38:59 +0000

Well Marc after hearing you (on numerous occassions) speak of Arm-R-Seal wipe on finish I am definitely going to give it a try. In the past I’ve used a brush on urethane always with decent results but this seems as you put it “dummy proof”.
Now I have a question for you… I am just recently setting up shop again (I have been away from it for over 10 years due to lack of space) and I would like to know the best/safest way to store finishes.
In the past I never gave it a second thought but I have been going through your site “archives” and found a very disturbing arcticle about a fire that happened to Mike Mies.
He said he believed it may have been caused by his using BLO and spreading the clothes out to dry afterwards.
Now I’m the type who will buy a gallon if I need a quart and store the rest for future use.
What do you guys think? How do you store your finishes safely? I was thinking of purchasing a special flammable cabinet but I would rather not spend $400. if I don’t have to.
Thanks,
Larry

By: Damien

Damien — Sun, 15 Nov 2009 10:51:34 +0000

My twelve year old kitchen table is oiled every (?) second year (when I ‘really’ need to) and daily abused with ‘soda, coffee, wine, or maybe even some delicious hot cocoa’ and red coloured yoghurt (leaves a red stain within 5-10 minutes), and grocery bags for the scratches.
But once cleaned, apart from a few deep scratches and bumps, I can’t see much damage. The red stains (E150d and E122) are probably not light fast. On the other hand, I can understand that a regularly maintained varnished surface is preferred by most people. (As for grocery bags, please don’t put anything from the floor on a table.)

By: cahudson42

cahudson42 — Sun, 15 Nov 2009 09:09:26 +0000

Hi Marc,

Maybe I missed it, but did you do your little stain test on the water-based poly? I’m guessing you might be surprised to find its nowhere near as good as the arm-r-seal.

Thats because in the water-based poly, the resin is dispersed – and remains dispersed/suspended – because of added ‘surfactants’ – think soap. Even if the resin material cross-links when it drys – the ‘soap’ is still in there. And as soon as water hits it – the soap will start to dissolve your finish – just like your dishwasher soap dissolves grease.

A similar solvent-based resin finish will – IMHO – always be superior.

I NEVER use a water-based product on any piece of furniture/cabinetry I make.

Water-based stuff is OK for interior gypsum wallboard, and actually can – in a few circumstances – be OK as an exterior house siding finish – as long as the finish is a light color. (It will chalk, making the finish ‘cleaner looking’ plus it may be less likely to peel as it ‘breaths better’. But if the color is dark, be prepared for the finish to eventually look streaked as it chalks.)

Yes, water-based is ‘politially correct’. But solvent-based is – again IMHO – always going to be superior as a furniture finish.

And for a bathroom vanity – that is absolutely the LAST place I would ever use a water-based product..:>)