This video was recording like on 9/14/11. My goal was to discuss my new torsion box assembly table and what makes it different from the original Torsion Box Assembly Table. To be perfectly frank, the differences weren’t great enough to justify making this project into a new video series. But I thought you would enjoy getting a look at some of the minor changes. You can read a little more about the assembly table in this article: How I Spent My Summer Vacation.

As with all live sessions, we had a little Q&A as well. Questions include:
What wood is appropriate for a workbench?
Can you use a hollow core door for an assembly table?
Fixing a chair that was chewed by a dog?
Can you combine a torsion box and a workbench? Check out the torsion box workbench!

So there were three primary goals this week: finish the wall cabinets, build a new assembly table, and build a new outfeed table. None of these projects were dramatically different than things we’ve done in the past on the show but I’ll point out some of the changes and my reasons for them.

The Cabinets

The cabinet carcasses were milled up by my buddy Ron on his CNC machine. I basically brought all the parts home and did the assembly, but there was still quite a bit of work to do, including drawer construction and edge-banding EVERYTHING. I used maple strips for the edge-banding and attached them with glue/clamps when I had the patience, and glue/brad nails when I didn’t. Norm would have been proud!
Once all the parts were edge-banded and sanded, I slapped on a few coats of General Finishes High Performance (satin). Even though its a water-based finish, it did a fine job of highlighting the contrast between the alder veneer and the maple edging. I think the contrast looks good and honestly, it wasn’t intentional. It was simply based on the materials I had on hand and thankfully, it turned into a happy accident.

The Torsion Box Assembly Table

One of the most popular projects on our site is the Torsion Box Assembly Table. The original design was borrowed from David Marks and the table served me well over the years. During the first shop move, I needed all the space I could get so the assembly table was given to my buddy Greg. Now that I’m back in the old space, the need for an assembly table is greater than ever! Doing the Adirondack chair build without it was a huge pain in the butt!

Instead of simply rebuilding the old version, I decided to scale things down a bit and customize the base to my current needs. The first change was the overall dimensions. Instead of going 48″ x 72″ for the torsion box, I scaled down to 42″ x 60″. Truth is, I never really needed as much space as a 48″ x 72″ top provides. Instead of being useful workspace, it usually became a place for collecting crap. So instead of a three compartment base I went with a much simpler two-compartment design. On the one side, I have room for my compressor and a pull-out drawer for my pneumatic guns, and on the other side I have a little garage for my Festool vac or a shop vac. Each side also features a shallow recess that will be used for either adjustable shelving or clamp storage. The sides of the base will also be used for hanging things like hammers and small clamps. So its not 100% complete yet, but you get the idea. A few extra details for you. The height was strategically made to be the same as my Festool MFT3, providing extra support for really long stock. And the material I used was ultralight MDF, which was MUCH nicer to deal with than standard MDF.

Perhaps the biggest change with this project was the method and materials for the torsion box. One thing I have learned over the years of doing this woodworking thing is that many of us over-estimate the importance of “dead flat” surfaces. So I knew that as long as my torsion box was mostly flat with no twist, I’d be a happy camper. Instead of working up some complicated saw horse leveling technique, I simply used another surface that I knew was already mostly flat: my workbench. And during the grid assembly, I used scrap pieces of MDF on edge to ensure that the skins remained flat and true, trusting the workbench to help keep things in order in the long dimension.

The grid itself was a little different too. Instead of creating a perfect grid, I decided to stagger the short pieces which made the process of nailing them in place MUCH easier. Everything is held together with glue and once the skins are in place, I don’t think there is an appreciable difference in strength using this technique. Especially not on a torsion box that will be completely supported. You also might notice that I have no replaceable skin on this one. I guess I’ll just have to keep it clean. Yeah right!

So you’re probably wondering just how flat the top is. In the long dimension it is nearly perfect. Along the short dimension, it’s pretty much dead flat in the middle and I have a slight dip at the last 6″ at each side. Probably by about 1/32″ or so. I can absolutely live with that. Any time I use the table for true reference, I will make sure I’m using the center of the table.

So is this woodworking blasphemy?? Not worrying about things being dead flat? Nope….its reality. By the time you are assembling a project, there are many other factors at play that will dictate whether your project stays flat, square and true. The primary one being joinery. So flatness becomes much more of an issue on the tools that you use to make your joinery, including your workbench. So if you have good square joints and consistently-milled parts, a dead flat assembly surface is not really necessary. Don’t get me wrong here. If you can get a dead flat surface, why not, right? Better is better. I’m just saying that if your assembly table isn’t dead nuts flat, don’t worry about it. Figure out where your “flattest” part is and keep that in mind when you are assembling parts.

The Outfeed Table

This was another long-overdue project. I have been using a roller stand as an outfeed support for a while now and let me tell you, that’s for the birds! There really is nothing like have 100% full support for just about any piece that comes across the tablesaw. The design is pretty much the same a my previous version, with the only major difference being the top. Instead of recessing the top into the base for a flush fit, I now have a top that overhangs the base significantly. This allows the top to nestle right up against the tablesaw which minimizes the gap. The top itself is made from two sheets of birch plywood sandwiched together. This gives the unit some serious weight and really helps to stabilize the entire thing. The shelf on the bottom provides some much-needed storage for various tablesaw doo-dads and dingle-hoppers.

The Levelers

Both the outfeed table and the assembly table required precise height adjustments. This was fairly easy to do. I simply made sure the final height was about 1/4″ below what I needed it to be. Then I used these heavy duty levelers from Rockler. What I like about them is that they hook underneath the cabinet side rather than simply screwing into the face. All of the weight is being supported in a way that won’t result in screws ripping out at some point. With a level and a straight edge, I had both the outfeed table and assembly table adjusted perfectly in minutes.

So that’s what I did on my “summer vacation”, and I’d do it all again this week if I had the time. I need a turning tool rack, a fancy tablesaw auxiliary fence, and a few storage units for various things around the shop. But these projects will be made into full episodes for the show. I can’t wait! Now if you want to learn a little more about the projects I reviewed in this article, make sure you stop by for some of our upcoming live events. On Sept. 14th at 6pm Eastern I’ll be doing a quick live discussion/Q&A about the assembly table. And on Oct. 5th we’ll be doing one on the outfeed table. All events will be recorded for later viewing but its a lot more fun if you can participate in the chat. So I’ll see you there! And be sure to check the calendar for all of our live events and video releases coming up.

Location: Adelaide, Australia

Hobbyist or Pro: Hobbyist

Finish Used: Two coats minwax wipe-on poly followed by cabinetmaker’s wax

Wood Species: MDF, ply, hardboard

Project Description:
I had an old workbench that had a steel top so after watching Marc’s torsion box assembly table video, I decided to give building one a crack myself.

The box is primarily made from 1″ MDF and a hardboard layer on the top skin. I also put quite large dog holes to accommodate clamps so it would serve as a multi-function table also. I finished the edges with 1/2″ plywood which made it look great.

Location: Ford City, PA

Amateur or Pro: Amateur

Shop Type: Basement

Square Footage: 500-999

Shop Description:
I am an amateur woodworker in the greater Pittsburgh area. I use to work for a custom high end furniture shop. I want to eventually do it on my own.

My shop is approximately 720 sq. ft. located in the basement of my home. I am blessed with a lot more space than most woodworkers, but still crave for more. My shop is still evolving. I am constantly making upgrades, jigs and modifications to the shop and tools. I, like many woodworkers, spend more time on the shop than on actual projects. Looking to get some projects in the shop soon.

My latest project is a modified design of Marc’s torsion box work bench.

Amateur or Pro: Amateur

Finish Used: Water based poly and wax

Wood Species: Birch plywood and Alder/Cherry trim

Project Description:

The primary variants from your own video and other viewer projects I’ve seen are :

• Designed a rolling open cabinet base using 4 inch poly casters.
• Used birch plywood from HD to reduce weight over MDF.
• Torsion box spacers alternate for easy brad gun use; assembly of base is entirely with confirmat screws and no glue allowing disassembly if ever desired.
• The table is 36 x 72 inches with 32 inch height.

I figured I’d share this since it’s mostly based on what I’ve learned from watching your videos. I have posted this on another woodworking forum only to have people ask me for better pictures / plans, etc. For those looking for an outfeed table, lots of drawers to hold stuff, and an assembly table that’s dead-flat, this is it. My design is built with the addition of a sliding table saw in mind, and with 50″ rails. The drawer pulls were made with leopardwood and purpleheart , the trim around the torsion box is bubinga with wenge corner pieces. It’s 66″ x 84″ – long enough to assemble on one end, while still cutting on the other, OR use the whole length for cutting or the whole length for assembling. It also makes a great surface to lay sheet goods on for layout. If I were doing it over, I might convert the non-drawer area into a specialized compartment to hold a shopvac, air compressor, or plywood storage. I guess it’s not too late to change it!

Matt was also kind enough to make his original SketchUp file available.

Love your site and all your podcasts. You have done great things for the craft or should I say sport. Anyway, I built a new assembly table using your torsion box design. I thought you might be interested in it since you gave yours away and will have to build a new one when you get your new shop. Its 4 feet by 4 feet and adjusts from 30 to 39 inches in height. I don’t have the room for a larger one. It is on Zambus 2600 lb casters so it rolls real nice and locks down beautifully, my 2 year old can move it. Its made of mostly maple some birch and little bits of zebrano teak and Jatoba just stuff that was lying around the shop. Also the drawers are soft closing which are fantastic I will never buy regular closing drawers again. Oh ya the best part is it adjusts using a electric scissor jack powered by a motorcycle battery and I have pins that go in so it is solid as a rock. Hope you like it.

I think most people have an unhealthy addiction to tradition, old is not always best. I really like your “best tool for the job” approach, I always want to work that way. Recently I’ve been trying to trim every project down to absolute functionality, both in production and use. I’ve tried to let the use of each piece dictate everything about it (size, shape, material, finish), while also finding the quickest and cheapest way to produce whatever that thing may be (so long as all functionality is retained). The first thing I tried with this method is my latest workbench, I’ll briefly highlight the main advantages over traditional bench making methods and materials.

Cost – this bench cost me about $80 altogether.

Time – No glue ups, no material surfacing, altogether it took me around 8 hours.

Tools – No jointer, no planer, this bench can easily be made with a minimal tool set.

The top is flat and stable, never needs to be flattened. This design is extremely rigid, no chance of racking. The leg-vise chop is also a torsion box, lending the same benefits. 8/4 lumber is expensive and all solid lumber warps over time, not a torsion box. I made the chop from scrap 1/2″ and 3/8″ ply, its light and flat. I have a nice solid bench (modeled after the 21st century workbench by Bob Lang) and I can’t think of a single reason why I’d rather use it than the torsion bench. There are no drawbacks. This bench is cheaper, faster, easier, more stable, and every bit as functional.

So what do you think? Blasphemy or brilliance? Is there still a reason to labor over a solid wood bench? I think with the addition of a sacrificial/replaceable top, Bud’s bench has a lot of appeal for me, personally. And that’s the key isn’t it? A workbench is a very personal piece of functional furniture, so to each his own. But I would love to hear your opinions on this concept.

Questions or Comments?You can get a hold of us by either dropping us an email at woodtalkonline@gmail.com or you can pick up the phone and leave us a message on our voice mail at 623-242-2450.

What’s on the Bench?

Marc’s gearing up for round 2 of shop upgrades, including new garage doors, blown-in cellulose, and an A/C unit. Matt finished up a child’s dresser. Only 2 months late!

News:
David Marks live interview on Monday Dec. 7th. Join the Guild today!
David’s Bandsawn Veneers DVD
Super FMT from Leigh Jigs

Around the Web:
Not your father’s turntables! Audiowood.com
Our listener Angus Pitt sent us a link to WoodGears.ca: a neat little website with some interesting articles.
Forget hand carved Christmas ornaments, check these out!

Sweet Deals:
Old Fashioned Milk Paint deal, now through December 31st:
* Order over $50.00 of any products and get a FREE sample of Daddy Van’s Beeswax Polish. It’s a beautiful finish over milk paint, and it is all natural and child safe, too!
* Order over $100.00 of products and they’ll include a FREE QUART of Old Fashioned MIlk Paint or their new SafePaint !
* Deck the Walls Special! “Buy 3 Gallons SafePaint- Get 1 Free” special was so popular they’re bringing it back, just in time to spruce up your home for your holiday entertaining. This special may not be combined with any other offer.
Woodcraft – free shipping on all orders
Rockler – Jet parallel clamps on sale 31″, 40″, 50″ sizes online only

It Came From the Forum:
Rob Lopez wants recommendations for a good combination tablesaw blade. Join the discussion!

Voicemail:
Jess- Rocking Chair plans?
Charles Brock’s Plan
Hal Taylor’s Plan
Eric-Refinishing pricing?
Mark-Durable Table Top Finish?
Behlen’s Table Top Varnish

Email:
Bud made a modern workbench utilizing the strength of the torsion box. NO hardwood.
Danny wants to know how to properly finish oily exotic woods, like cocobolo.

Tom’s Tip: (TomsWorkbench.com)
A great tip for consistent sanding.
Village Carpenter’s Tip:(VillageCarpenter.Blogspot.com)
Kari suggests you get your whittle on!