Location: Gilbert, Arizona

Hobbyist or Pro: Hobbyist

Project Name: Ikie’s Crib

Wood Species: Poplar

Finish Used: I used a rag to apply two coats of GF Java Gel Stain, then two coats of GF Gel Urethane, light sanding between coats.

Project Description:

So I noticed that there weren’t any cribs on the list of viewer projects so I figured I’d submit this one for review. It’s pretty minimalistic, but I think it has a nice modern charm to it.

I decided to build the crib for my brother Sam and his wife Hilary when I found out that they were expecting their first child (Isaac or “Ikie” for short). I felt like it was a pretty good excuse to get out in the shop and make some saw dust. So I called up my brother and told him that I wanted to make them a crib and surprise his wife with a nice custom crib for their nursery. He thought it was a great idea and so the design process began. Sam sneakily investigated what style of crib Hilary wanted and then sent me a scanned copy of a page that he tore out of a parenting magazine where they had found the “perfect” crib.

It took me a couple months to complete the project (a lot of evenings and weekends) so as I made progress on it, I would send pictures to Sam. Well, it turns out that the secret mysteriously got leaked and Hilary knew that the crib was coming but her reaction upon delivery was still priceless.

There are a few things that I would do differently if I were to do it again (isn’t that always the case!?) but overall I think the build went well. Now my wife and I are expecting our first baby and with what I learned building Ikie’s crib, I should be able to make something for us that we’ll be able to cherish for many years.

Here are the project details:

-Full size baby crib (fits a standard 52×27 inch mattress)
-Solid poplar
-Stained with General Finishes Java gel stain and finished with GF gel urethane topcoat.
-Crib springs can be adjusted to 4 different heights
-Can be converted into a toddler bed.

Construction Note:

To make all of the mortises for the vertical slats I just ran a groove down the length of the rails and then glued spacers in to create the individual mortises. After the glue-up, I cleaned everything up with a couple passes on the jointer. It seemed to work well and the glue joints were barely noticeable since I used such a dark finish.

Its all about dye, “Wood Whisperer Style”. My goal with this video is to grossly simplify the confusing world of dyes, while also giving you the knowledge you need to determine the working characteristics of any dye just by looking at the ingredients list or MSDS. We’ll discuss the different types of dyes, how to apply them, and we’ll even get into the chemistry behind water-based finishes and a key family of solvents known as glycol ethers. Knowledge is power!

This video was pulled from the Guild Archive and was re-mastered for your viewing pleasure. If you want to see more DVD quality videos like this one, consider joining the Guild!

Products Used

General Finishes Water Based Stain, Reducer Add some life to your next project with these unique, water based, ultra penetrating stains. Designed to work like solvent-based stains, they feature deep rich tones that enhance the wood grain General Finishes Water Based Stain, Reducer

TransTint® Dyes Concentrated dye solution makes it easy to apply beautiful color to your projects. Dissolves in water, alcohol and oil! TransTint® Dyes

Homestead Powdered Dyes Soluble in water. 1 oz. Because these dyes contain no fillers or extenders, a one ounce packet of dye makes two quarts of stain. Can be applied with brush, cloth or spraying. Color steadfast. Homestead Powdered Dyes

I was fortunate to work in a refinishing shop for a while and I had the opportunity to learn about color matching using various techniques and materials. We used to mix all kind of crazy stuff together to get that perfect match. Over the years, I began to realize that many times the perfect match is sitting in a can on the shelf. And if you can find the perfect color in a commercial product, I say “why not?”. The formula should always (hopefully) be consistent and if you ever need to reproduce the color again in the future, you’ll thank yourself.

This weekend, my buddy Ron from RJones Woodworks stopped by to bring me Dunkin’ Donuts coffee. Well, to tell you the truth, that’s my standard color matching consultation fee. Pretty reasonable, right? Well anyway, he’s building a custom piece for a client who wants the color to match a particular bamboo cutting board. Now lets get one thing straight: there isn’t a damn thing you can do to oak to make it look like bamboo. This is an important detail that many clients don’t realize. I have had more than one customer ask me to refinish something made from pine so that it looks like something else made from oak. I would match the color perfectly, only to find the customer disappointed on delivery day because the pieces don’t look the same. So if you are ever doing a match for a client, its incredibly important to manage their expectations. OK enough business advice.

So we were all prepared to pull out the pigments, dyes, lacquer and the HVLP. But before diving into that craziness, we decided to take some dyes and stains from the cabinet and see if we couldn’t find a pre-made solution. We tested numerous water and oil based stains and dyes (all General Finishes). From left to right we have oil-based Pecan, oil-based Antique Cherry, American Cherry gel stain, Nutmeg gel stain, Light Brown water-based dye stain, and Pecan water-based wood stain. The differences were subtle: some had more red, some had more brown, others had more yellow. But all of them were, of course, affected by the red oak laying underneath the color. This is why its always important to test your stains on an actual scrap piece of the material you plan to work with.

Now the bamboo itself contains a range of colors from light to medium to dark brown, and mimicking the exact look would be nearly impossible. But if we could find a color that was a happy medium between the light and dark streaks, we would be in business. When it was all said and done, we decided on the Light Brown dye stain. We stained a larger area to confirm the match and I think we made the right choice. Honestly, I don’t think we could get any closer even if we tried. So once Ron gets the client’s approval, this is a done deal. Instead of spending hours trying to experiment with color, Ron can now hop online and order up a can of Light Brown Dye Stain. And if his client ever commissions another piece in the future, its going to be incredibly easy for him to match the color.

All in all it was a fun morning. And if anyone else wants to bring me free Dunkin’ Donuts coffee, I’ll be more than happy to help you do some color matching.

The absolute worst time to find out you’ve made a mistake is while the glue is drying. So this part focuses strongly on the importance of a dry assembly, which I consider to be an essential part of the glue up process. By the end we’ll have a partially glue-up entertainment center.

A few of the topics covered in this part:

• Gluing trim pieces.
• Using biscuits.
• Clamping strategies.
• Using a wood filler to hide miter flaws.
• Cutting the big bevels on the top and bottom trim.
• Sanding.
• Dry assembly strategy.
• Measuring and cutting the back panels.
• Initial glueup.

And this is the filler I recommended in the video. If you’ve had bad experiences with fillers in the past, you really need to give this stuff a shot. Shopping through this affiliate link will also help out the show.



Quick Links:
Low Entertainment Center Pt. 1
Low Entertainment Center Pt. 2
Low Entertainment Center Pt. 3
Low Entertainment Center Pt. 4
Low Entertainment Center Pt. 5

I’m finishing some maple kitchen doors. I have a Fuji Mini-Mite 3x to apply the finish. I first applied a 1.5 to 2 pound cut of shellac and now I’m spraying the oil based stain. The problem is that I get what I think is called orange peel. Basically I can see the stain dots in the doors. Definitely the stain is not applied uniformly. Here is what I’ve tried so far:

– Applied a thinner cut of shellac thinking perhaps the shellac was too thick. Initially I used a 2.5 to 3 pound cut.
– Sanded the shellac coat more aggressively using 220 grit.
– Adjusted the hell out of the gun. I adjusted the air pressure, fluid control, fan size and any combination of these three knobs with no success.
– I bought a #3 air cap thinking that the #4 was too big for the viscosity of the stain. No success here either.
– Thinned down the stain to 3 parts stain and 1 part solvent. This helped a little bit but still the result is not what it should be.
I’d appreciate any pointers you can give me because this thing is driving me crazy.

And this is my response:

Hey Jorge. Take a deep breath brother! I don’t think the problem is in the gun or your technique. Its in the materials. The shellac, even at 1.5-2lb cut, might be a little excessive in this case. Traditional oil-based stains rely on absorption into the wood to work properly. By sealing with 1.5-2 lb cut of shellac, you essentially created a barrier on the surface of the wood. So now the stain just pools, much like trying to use a marker on a glossy surface.

So here are a few recommendations. If you need to seal the wood first (which is not a bad idea for a blotch-prone wood like maple), just use a 1/2lb cut of dewaxed shellac. After it dries, sand it very lightly with 220 grit. This usually results in a surface that is only partially sealed and will still allow the some stain to absorb. So you can then spray on the oil stain, and wipe off the excess. Do not let it pool up. You may even skip the spray at this stage because all you really need to do is wipe the stain on. Now to be honest, I might even be a little hesitant to do this. I just don’t trust traditional oil stains over even partially-sealed surfaces. So for more predictable results, you may want to switch to a gel stain. The gel formulation does not rely so heavily on absorption and will give you a much better distribution and intensity of color, without any blotching. Once the stain dries, you can then apply the top coat.

Now going back to the shellac surface. Lets say you had that heavier coat on and you still wanted to add color. How would you do it? Well, you could always add some dye to the shellac itself. That’s a great way to bring some base color to the party. You could also add dye to lacquer (if lacquer is your top coat). I like to make very light dye mixtures (using both shellac and lacquer) that are mostly thinner and dye. But I like to add a little of the finish itself to the mix as that helps bind the dye to the surface. Basically, this is what is known as a “toner”. Hopefully that gives you enough to chew on. Good luck!

“Pictures show my biggest home project. Floor is Cherry. Cabinets are Birch, finished with a 7 step process including conditioning, 3 gel stain combos-Minwax and Old Masters, then wipe-on-poly top coats. Drawers and lower china cabinet all have full extension slides. Granite was contracted. The stained glass was my first attempt, but worth the effort. Good note – when I decided to design and make the stained glass, I visited a local supplier/window maker and he said I could ask questions, watch him work and get some pointers… for a reasonable time – but asked if I decided to make a window, to please purchase supplies and material from him. A great trade off!”