Neil’s Origins Table – Viewer Project
This mind boggling project comes to us from Neil. Its an incredible lesson in “outside the box” thinking! Let’s hear from Neil:
I’m a South African living in Britain watching your American show – interesting how the world works huh? I’d like to enter a Viewer Project: my “ORIGINS” table. I really want to share this project with woodworkers because it has proven that I have to, like you say, think out of the box. Our schooling and everyday life causes the thought process to become rather closed and problem-oriented, rather than free-flowing and conceptual. It is like nothing I have tried before. Even after three months of making I still wonder how it all came to be.
It began about a year ago with an idea I had for a cabinet. My wife was pregnant and the whole process of birth become a fascination. The idea of male/female, yin-yang, parent and child etc, which I hope is evident in the design grew into the idea of using not only opposing woods, but opposing shapes, textures, types of board/timber. And then the cabinet wanted to become a table that supported a “child” if you will – the bowl in the middle.
Now what I have to keep reminding myself here is that I was trying my UTMOST best to NOT think about how I was going to make it. I’m sure us woodies are all cursed with this, but it has become so important (like with David Marks’ and furnitology’s) to concentrate on design and the “mindset” of the piece first, then problem-solve the issue of “how?” I made 2 HUGE mistakes and almost gave up but decided to go on. I was already on a tight budget for it (the veneers for the top alone cost something like $150!!) but I decided that once you pop, you can’t stop.
I found myself using tools I never had before: a round-bottomed spokeshave to finesse the curves, soil and dirt to tarnish the copper, sawdust and cyanoacrylate glue as wood-filler, a round-bottomed surform to finish the base. I had an idea of what I wanted it to look like, but it was make-it-up-as-you-go-along all the time and that was such a refreshing (though often frustrating) change. I strongly believe now that it’s not what you know, but rather what you want to learn that counts, and as long as woodworking is respective of the beauty that lies in wood, it will always be good :) It’s the ultimate material and unlike other things, it grows on trees!
Here are some construction details: “Female” consists of 27 layers of 19mm birch plywood – each piece individually routed round and then glued and pressed together. The final shape was eventually achieved after much use of a surform, belt sander, chisels and LOADS of 80 grit sandpaper wrapped around a 1.5 inch dowel.
Male consists of two halves. Each is two layers of 5mm bendyply veneered with walnut using contact adhesive (I was worried this would throw the shape out but the 2 layers of bendyply seemed to work well :) Making this was the most difficult part as the two halves had to be joined in a straight line, down a shape that curves in two directions and not only in the middle but where it joins the female too !! It took days of trial and error with a block plane to get that edge down the middle ! It’s still not perfect but hey we all have our limits :) I first made the structure then veneered one side at a time. The compound mitre on the base of the male proved to be challenging too since it does not lie flat on one surface but on an edge.
The cherry piece joining the two was made from a single length for continuity and just cut into smaller angled pieces to achieve the curve. The “foot” that joins the base of the male was done by hand with some chisels and a belt sander. The bowl also came to be using bendyply. Veneers are Maple, Walnut and I think Burr elm.
Once I got the male and female to join nicely with the cherry, and the bowl all fitted, I started on the top. I routed a 3foot diameter piece of 19mm ply and edged it with a 4mm cherry strip. I achieved this using strap-clamps and very straight-grained quarter sawn cherry to avoid it splitting/snapping (Yikes!). Initially it was to be more of a yin-yang shape on top but the waterdrop shape of the bowl called for a more refined curve. I first laid the burr walnut veneer, then the burr cluster maple (quite pink isn’t it?) then I routed the groove for the cherry inlay.
The cherry inlay isn’t conventionally liad. Rather than a thin slice of veneer it consists of about 10 layers of cherry veneer laid on edge within the groove! That proved to be a rather testing time :) After some hand-planing with a SHARP edge, it was flush to the veneer surfaces. I recessed the glass supports into the top and made the template for the glass by tracing on a piece of paper with a pencil (similar to the copper method). I sent it off to the glass-makers and they did a swell job. The glass lid is lifted out using the inch hole.
Now the copper came by accident due to the fact that I had to cover ugly screws sticking out of the female where I had screwed the ply pieces together. I tried to remove them neatly but it turned ugly after a while :) So I decided – as a friend once told me – rather make a display of your mistakes than try to hide them. I think I have realized now how helpful that can be. So I drilled the three 65mm holes 3mm deep around the screws, got hold of some 3mm copper plate and after making a rough paper template I ground them out and shaped them using a belt-sander on edge with 40 grit paper. I then tarnished them by leaving them outside on the lawn for a few nights and beat and scraped them in any way possible to create the aged look. I glued them in with PU glue and sanded them with 600 grit.
The finish: After much debate and much research (including the help of The Wood Whisperer) I finally came to a conclusion. Danish Oil is one of the easiest finishes you could ever apply (I hope Marc agrees here) I have done lots of spraying and used varnishes and oils of all shapes and sizes, but since I had been laid off at work, I had no access to the spray-shop and thus needed a really easy no fuss finish. And I must say – it does take a good 4 coats over 4 days to do the job but it is ever so easy to wipe on. A rub down with steel wool between coats and then some good-old-fashioned beeswax (2 coats) and some elbow-grease to bring out a bit of a shine and I am really very pleased with the finish. I did want to use a polyurethane spray but I think it actually worked out better this way since I can rest assured it is easily re-finished or restored.
Lastly I must say that it really has been an amazing learning experience and I would not have been able to do it without the advice and general positivity of online shows like TWW – so thanks Marc and friends!
Wood Talk Online #53
If you have any comments, or questions about something you hear today or something you haven’t heard, you can get a hold of us by either dropping us an email at woodtalkonline@gmail.com or you can pick up the phone and leave us a message on our voice mail at 623-242-2450.
Our Anniversary Show! 2 years! Time to take the show in a slightly different direction. We’ve been sponsored by one of the most popular knitting podcasts out there, Nuttin’ Wrong with Knittin’!
Toms Tip: Keeping splinters out of your yarn.
What’s on the Bench?
Marc is still plugging away on the Hall Frame, trying to balance building, filming, and photographing all at the same time! Matt is excited about a couple new tools he picked up from his Grandfather.
Around the Web:
ToolCritic.com Tools are classified by type and manufacturer, and for each category, 7 1/4 inch circular saws, for instance, there is a little mini article that tells you all about the saws. The user-generated reviews give honest assessments. Some tools get high praise, while others are flamed. And if you post five reviews, you get a free t-shirt.
10 free wooden bike plans from the folks at ToolCrib.com
What Marc got in the Mail:
A new buffing wheel for the 8″ grinder, a plastic drafting triangle, and a square template.
Voicemails:
Frank- Essential Hand Tools? And what grade of tools?
Roberto – Making a bed. Sheet goods that won’t break under lots of stress.
Dean – Recommendation for big router in his new router table and a laminate trimmer.
David – Using plywood, how much sanding do you do?
Toms Tip:
Keeping your jigs straight by writing info on the jig itself.
Editor’s Tip:
Learning about wood for free. Check out The Wood Handbook and
http://hobbithouseinc.com
Interview With Jim Tolpin:
After more than thirty years of working at woodworking for a living…and after having written a dozen books on the subject that have sold more than three-quarters of a million copies…Jim Tolpin is now teaching woodworking for a living at the Port Townsend School of Woodworking. Check out Jim’s website!
Smooth and Blotch-Free Finish – Question of the Week
This week’s question comes from Jeff. He writes, “Love your videos have learned so much, only wish there were more! I have a problem and can’t find a layman’s answer. I like how you break down things so simply that even dumbass’s like me can understand. I built my nephew a computer desk out of Birch Plywood. I wanted to get this super nice cherry finish. The guy at HD told me to stain it with Cherry Stain (Minwax) then top coat it with Polyurethane (sp) Well, as I am sure you know it looks like “S**T” fortunately I did this on a test piece…please please please give me a layman’s answer as to how I can get a nice looking smooth finish, one that I would be proud of.”
And here was my reply: “Well this may not be super easy, but its the easiest way I know of. You can start by sealing the surface so that you get even stain absorption. I use a product called Bullseye SealCoat. This is a 2 lb cut of shellac but you might want to dilute it down to 1 lb. with denatured alcohol. Simply wipe on a good coat using a rag. It dries quickly so make it snappy. Let this dry for a few hours, then lightly sand the surface (by hand) with 220 grit sandpaper. Blow or wipe off the dust. Now you have a sealed surface on which to apply your stain. You can try the Minwax stuff, or you can try a gel stain. Gel stains are thicker and tend to sit on the surface more than regular stains. This means more even coverage over blotch prone woods. Once the stain dries, you can topcoat with shellac, varnish, lacquer, or any other topcoat of choice. But be sure to sand lightly between coats with 320. I like to actually increase the grit each time I sand. So after the first coat I use 320. After the second I use 400. After the third I use 600 and stay with it from there. And in general, as far as top coats go, I find wipe on varnish to be the easiest to work with. Remember, always practice on test boards. You never know how that stain is going to look until you actually try it. Good luck!”
And here are a few good related articles from FineWoodworking.com (made free for a limited time just for Wood Whisperer readers):
Avoid Color Mistakes and Learn How to Fix a Blotchy Stain
Dyes Can Do It All: Color bare wood without blotching, tint topcoats, and touch up blemishes
Gel Stain User’s Guide: Easy to apply, these stains are forgiving, even on blotch-prone woods
30- Tablesaw Outfeed Table
High Resolution Version
A few weeks ago, I added the Incra TSIII Fence System to my tablesaw. Unfortunately, my old outfeed table didn’t really work with the new system. So its time to build a new one. This isn’t your average outfeed table though. Its a full-size work table with a full shelf of storage. Perhaps the best part of all is the fact that it can be made with a modest collection of tools and just a few sheets of plywood. No fancy joinery here! This is what I like to call, a “Can Do” project. Enjoy!
Edit*** – For those who are interested, here are some exact dimensions for you:
Long Stretchers: 62″
Short Stretchers: 38″
Overall Dimensions: 65″ L x 39 1/2″ D x 33 3/4″H
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Heavy Duty Lifting Leveler Lipped mounting bracket works to lift and creates greater stability. Each leveler has load-bearing capacity of 600 pounds. Adjust to within 2-1/4” . Minimum installation height is 3″. Requires 5mm he.. |
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Heavy Duty Corner Levelers Lift and level even large cabinets or furniture with these heavy duty corner levelers. Stability is assured!.. |
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Dozuki Dovetail/Flush-Cut Saw Combination dovetail/flush-cut saw features two interchangeable blades and 7-3/4″ L bamboo handle. Dozuki dovetail blade measures 190mm L and has 24 tpi. |
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