Website: carverwa.com

Location: Enumclaw, WA

Hobbyist or Pro: Pro

Experience: 10+ yrs

Project Name: The “Luv Bench”

Wood Species: CVG Western Red Cedar

Finish Used: 5 coats, wet sanded, Daly’s Sea Fin Teak oil

Project Description:
First one was a commissioned project for a wedding gift. Designed as a outdoor courtship style bench. Laminated cedar glued w/ titebond III.

Name: Jeff Waggoner

Website: Plane Old Wood

Wood Species: 3/4″ plywood with western red cedar trim

Description:
My friend Ken is an big fan of the movie It’s a Wonderful Life so we recreated the sign “YOU ARE NOW IN BEDFORD FALLS” for a Christmas decoration.

First I pulled the image from the movie into Sketch up and did a match to try to get the size. Ken estimated that the top of the sign was 6′ high so I used that and calculated everything else with Sketch up. Ken found a font that was close but we had to stretch it in Photoshop to make it long enough. He then printed it out and cut out each letter to make a stencil. The sign ended up 8′ wide by 7′ high.

We had to glue up a block for the curved moldings and rough cut them on the band saw. We made a template of the curve the width of the molding and used a flush cut bit on the router table to clean it up.

The legs are 4×4 pine but they were very warped so by the time I joined and planned them they were just over 3 x3. The posts are connected to the feet via mortise and tenon joints. I added blocks to the ends of the feet so that it would stand better on uneven ground (and I thought they looked cool.) To fasten it to the ground we drilled hole through the feet at a slight angle and made stakes from 18″ galvanized rod to stake it to the ground.

Here’s a table that didn’t like the weather. It was a quick build to fill a pressing need. My daughter and her husband had moved to Phoenix and did not have a dining table of any sort. On our first trip to visit them, I went to Home Depot, bought a Ryobi $100 table saw, router and drill. Then a laminated sheet of pine, a few two by fours and some four by fours.

It took a few hours to build, then stain and brush on poly. A couple days later it was in their kitchen and was ready for use. For about a year it served it purpose. When they moved to a different house, they had acquired a dining room set and the table was put out on the patio where it looked quite nice by the way.

However, the sun and the heat of Arizona summers took their toll. A year and a half later, the table was unrecognizable and had surrendered it’s stability to the forces of nature. First the finish yellowed and cracked and finally the wood just had to move. And move it did. The top was warped and twisted beyond reason and the poor table died a horrible disfiguring death. It now stands as a testament to the slow but sure supremacy of nature.

First let me tell you that I love your website and videocasts as well as the Wood Talk Online project you are doing – and the direction both the website and the show are going in.

Heard you mention a new grill and that someday an outdoor kitchen is in the works. So I wanted to show you what I had recently done. We have a weird shaped lot due to being on a cul-de-sac so to give you an idea of the layout. In some of the pictures you see a wrought iron gate (actually aluminum) that is the gate between garage and house and where most everyone comes in. The green door in picture one is the back door which leads to laundry room and into kitchen breakfast area (the window next to door is to breakfast area)

To the left of that you can see living room windows that overlook pool and then there is large grass area beyond that with kids fort – trampoline etc. So that’s the layout. We had an area outside the kitchen that wouldn’t grow grass so we laid pavers and I built the island where there was little grill that had come with the house. Plus we built the fountain using Mexican Pots. It has turned the area into a nice outdoor living space – far enough from the pool that no one gets splashed (you can see table, chairs and a firepit in the background. The grill is a Sam’s club special. There is also a dual gas burner which you can see (it has a cover on it). Everything is plumbed into the natural gas but you could do with Propane all depending what your grill takes – I just like not having to worry if I run out.

Ok – now back to the island. Wish I had taken construction pictures. Oh well. Oh and let me add a couple of things. First it’s not quite finished yet (do it when I have free time .. LOL). What is missing is I need to level the grill with the top and put slate on the area directly under the grill plus I want to wire electrical into the pole that comes down from the overhead and put an outlet there for the Rotisserie and for a blender or whatever. Second – total cost if you don’t count the grill and dbl burner – about $750 or so for everything. Also I would like to add a small matching cabinet in that space between the door to the kitchen and the gate and put a small sink in it – on the other side of the wall is the washing machine so I can tie into the water and the drain without need for a plumber.

Construction was simple. The whole island sits on a concrete pad that was already there. I put cinder blocks there and filled them with concrete and gravel. Framing is 2×4’ put together with pocket screws. They just sit on the cinder blocks. Kinda like angle iron but made from 2×4’s – make sense? Then the framing is covered by concrete backer board and then thinset and real slate floor tiles. The top is Plywood covered by backer board and then real black granite tiles. Its then trimmed off with Padauk set with glue and screws then plugged with Wenge plugs. Inside the cabinet is lined with cedar (6” fence pickets that I planed to make smooth) gives it a nice finished look and helps keep bugs away. Then the doors and drawers are Padauk as well. The doors are thick with ½” solid panels. Drawer boxes are poplar – dovetailed of course. Bar stool will be replaced eventually – these were $19 each and my wife wanted something fast so they will do.

The Paduak is covered with General Finishes Outdoor Oil. The top trim has 3 coasts –only one so far on the doors and drawers. I haven’t put a final sealer on the slate either. The little outcropping on the back of the island with the double burner is where the gas line comes in. I put a big door on the end of the one section because my wife wanted a big deep area to store my sons stuff rather than a door under the one drawer. That may have been a design mistake but its ok.

In hindsight there are some things I would have done different but overall Im very happy with it so far. We like the large area with the overhang so people can pull up a barstool and talk and snack and drink while I cook. I could have gone with one of those drop-in grills but we bought the grill long before doing the island – and I decided not to take it off the base because it has such nice storage under it. The plus on that is that if the grill ever dies and I need to replace – I have lots of flexibility in size. I can just redo the base it sits on and make longer or shorter and adjust the right island as needed. The islands are free standing except where screwed into the pole. Once complete the weight keeps them in place since they become very heavy.

I like the mix of media (grant, slate, wood and stainless) The cost savings doing it myself was incredible. Thought since you had mentioned getting one someday, you might want to see a homemade outdoor kitchen. Oh people ask why no fridge – well there is one in the laundry room and I just couldn’t see putting another thing that eats electricity out there. But who knows in the long run. It was very easy to build – if you can lay floor tile you can do this. To make it even easier we used premixed thinset on this and we used a premixed epoxy grout. We’ve laid our share of floors but since I did a section at a time the premix was worth the small added expense. My wife is making a cover for it that will hand down about a foot in all directions to keep the top clean. It is under cover and gets minimal direct sun but it does get covered in dust and pollen etc. So it’s more just to make keeping it clean easier.

I’m an amateur – especially compared to you – these were my second ever set of doors and drawers. But I am happy with the results. Hope you enjoyed this. Oh and like all projects this one spawns another – my lovely wife wants me to rebuild the back door out of Mahogany. She bought some clear stained glass panel for it off ebay.

Edit*** – I found two construction pics as I was finishing this up and you can see the double burner in them and some of the internal construction before doors and such. The inside of the door framing where you can see 2×4’s is actually now covered with ½ padauk. That sticks out about an 1/8” past the slate so the doors have a smooth surface to close against.

Why We Need Outdoor Formulations

Before we dig into the details, let’s talk about why we need a different varnish for outdoor applications. Any wood stored outside is going to be exposed to a wide range of temperatures and weather, as well as a good dose of damaging UV rays. These elements serve to break down the finish over time. Furthermore, changes in humidity cause the wood to expand and contract, and a standard indoor finish would simply crack and deteriorate under these conditions. Spar varnishes are typically designed to not only protect the wood, but also give it the flexibility and UV protection it needs to last for years. And the name “spar varnish” comes from the boating world, where the long wooden poles that support the sails are know as spars. So a spar varnish needs to be one that can withstand the rigorous conditions of seafaring life.

The Components

Nearly all modern varnish contains a few basic components: oil, resin, and a solvent. By modifying the types and amounts of these components, we can create a whole range of mixtures that vary in price and are specifically suited for either indoor or outdoor use. Fortunately for the inquisitive finisher, there are only so many ingredients that manufacturers have to choose from. And this makes it easier to see beyond the marketing jargon to deduce how a particular finish will behave. Here are the most common recipe ingredients:

Oils – Linseed Oil or Tung Oil
Resins – Alkyd, Phenolic, or Polyurethane
Solvents – Mineral Spirits, Naptha, or Paint Thinner

Oil to Resin Ratio

When a varnish is made, the ratio of oil to resin can have a dramatic effect on the way the varnish will behave. For instance, using a small amount of oil and a large amount of resin will produce a very hard but somewhat brittle finish. Obviously, this is not suitable for outdoor applications since we need an outdoor finish to be flexible. So what makes more sense is to create what is known as a “long-oil varnish”, that is, a formulation that contains a greater percentage of oil. The extra oil results in a softer, more flexible finish that will not crack when the wood expands and contracts.

Oil Types

The most common oil used to make varnish is linseed oil. Its lower cost makes it the most practical choice for both indoor and outdoor formulations. But many believe that tung oil is actually better for outdoor use. After all, a higher quality oil should equate to a higher quality varnish, and thus a higher price tag. As a result, many of the high-end marine varnishes will be made with tung oil instead of linseed oil.

Resin Types

Generally speaking, phenolic resins are best-suited for outdoor use. But that doesn’t mean every spar varnish is made with phenolic resins. Much like the situation with oils, the better product is also the most expensive. So you’ll find plenty of outdoor formulations using alkyd and urethane resins. A popular finish like Helmsman Spar Urethane contains urethane modified alkyd resins. A higher quality finish like Epifanes contains phenolic modified alkyd resins. There are many other brands of outdoor oil-based varnish, but the ingredients list is usually much more revealing than the words on the front of the can.

Sun Block For Wood

Most spar/marine varnishes will contain other important additives, such as UV blockers, that give the wood that extra bit of protection it needs in harsh conditions. UV light will not only damage the wood, but also the finish itself, eventually resulting in finish failure. So its a good idea to use a finish containing UV-blockers for any outdoor project.

Conclusion

Generally-speaking, my preferred outdoor varnish would be a long-oil varnish made with tung oil and at least some phenolic resins and UV inhibitors. And most times the brand I reach for is Epifanes.

If you’d like to learn a little more about how I apply varnish, check out this article: A Better Way to Apply Spar Urethane

If you want to learn more about my favorite finishing method, you should check out my DVD, A Simple Varnish Finish. My goal with the DVD was to demystify finishing by going over each and every step of the wiping varnish process. Even someone new to the world of finishing can create a show-stopping finish if they follow the methods outlined in the DVD. So check it out!

Outdoor finishes can be one of the trickiest types of wood finishes to master. Why? Because there is never a one size fits all solution. As woodworkers, we are used to dealing with the seasonal wood movement of our interior pieces. But when one of our creations is destined to live outside, there is much more to consider. Depending on your region’s climate, your project could experience anything from snow and ice to hot desert sand storms. How the heck do we prepare for that?!?! Well, it is still an area that I am learning much about. I haven’t built many outdoor pieces and most of my knowledge comes from my reading and conversations with other woodworkers. Here in the Arizona desert, we have mild winters, occasional isolated rain spells, monsoon season (a temporary time of increased humidity), frequent dust storms, and of course, blazing hot summers where my shop can reach 125F, if left to its own devices. So in these harsh conditions, how would you finish your solid alder front door? For me, the answer lies in something most of us use on a daily basis: our workbenches. Much like your workbench, an Arizona front door will receive a great deal of punishment. And when an item is going to see that much abuse, sometimes the focus has to shift from absolute protection (a losing battle), to repair-ability. And that’s where my special homemade oil/marine varnish blend comes in handy. Watch the video and see what you think.

The product I recommend using in the video is Epifanes Marine Varnish.

“Quick question on joining treated pine – I would like to face glue surfaced 2×6 treated pine boards. Does the fact that i am using treated lumber reduce the strength of the joint or make the glue less effective somehow? This is for an application that will have to be waterproof.”

My reply is actually an excerpt from an article I found a while back from Iowa State Univeristy. Full Article Here.
Deposits on the surface of treated wood present problems in gluing. Oil-type preservatives typically present more problems than waterborne treatments. Wood treated with very high retentions of creosote or pentachlorophenol in heavy solvents is essentially non-gluable. Low retentions of penta in light solvents may be somewhat more readily glued than wood treated with creosote. Wood treated with waterborne chemicals usually can be glued without major problems, if properly dried. Planing or sanding the surface before gluing is recommended to enhance bonding. Select the adhesive appropriate for the exposure condition among conventional wood adhesives. Only resorcinol resin glues provide completely waterproof gluelines with wood; urea resin glues and polyvinyl resin adhesives generate only modest water-resistant glue bonds. Some types of elastomeric construction adhesives offer good resistance to moisture and are much more tolerant of high wood moisture contents and low temperatures than conventional wood adhesives.

If anyone has anything to add, please do so in the comments section. I personally have very little experience gluing treated wood.

“I am using Helmsman Spar Urethane to refinish the front door of our house. It’s a one piece flat door — no recessed panels. I am applying it with a quality brush but I still get brush marks and hi-low points, also tried a sponge brush with same results. I know it’s barely noticeable but I absolutely abhor brush marks. After 4 coats, I have managed to sand it down fairly flat. Is it possible to thin Helmsman and spray it with an HVLP gun? There is a Helmsman spray can available but I have so much Urethane left over. To thin or not to thin?”

The Power of Dilution

Polyurethane, whether its an outdoor or indoor formula, takes a little finesse to apply without bubbles or brush strokes. You need to use the right brush and it takes a little practice to get the technique right. Sponge brushes are certainly another option, but the results are not always a significant improvement. Most of the trouble comes from the fact that the urethane solution is so thick. It can be like trying to lay down an even coat of corn syrup. So one way to significantly improve the workability of your urethane is to thin it with mineral spirits. Thinning by about 10-20% will make brushing significantly easier. And thinning even further would allow you to spray via HVLP, but that’s definitely not my favorite way to apply an oil-based varnish. Thinning allows the finish to self-level a little better, and ultimately that will help you avoid brush marks. The only disadvantage is you need to apply more coats to get the desired film thickness you are after. But if the payoff is a smooth finish with no brush strokes, who cares, right?

The Wiping Method

Now there is yet another way to apply polyurethane that I feel is the easiest, beginner-friendly method. And frankly, its the method I still use. It involves abandoning brushes all together. Here’s what you do. Thin the varnish 50% with mineral spirits, paint thinner, or naptha. Then get yourself a clean cotton rag (old t-shirt material works great), and fold it into a nice square applicator pad. I like it to be palm-sized. Wet the applicator with your thinner and then dip it into your diluted finish. Wipe on smooth thin coats, overlapping the previous stroke with each pass by about half. This method will result in a super smooth finish with no bubbles and no brush strokes. But remember, you will need to apply twice as many coats to get to your desired film thickness. Because you are actually applying less material to the surface, the dry time is significantly decreased as well. So in some climates (hot and dry), you’ll be able to apply as many as three coats per day. Just remember that when you use a wipe-on urethane, you aren’t trying to flooding on a real thick layer. You are just coating the surface evenly with a thin wet film.

If you want to learn more about my particular finishing method, you should check out my DVD, A Simple Varnish Finish. My goal with the DVD was to demystify finishing by going over each and every step of the wiping varnish process. Even someone new to the world of finishing can create a show-stopping finish if they follow the methods outlined in the DVD. So check it out! And for those that are wondering what my preferred outdoor varnish is, its Epifanes Marine Varnish.