Topics:

A Safety Week recap. Matt’s upcoming steam bending class. A reminder about Woodworking in America- Hand Tool & Technique Conference: Nov. 14th-16th in Berea, KY. A voicemail about hickory and color change from Denis, the Teenage Woodworker, and a voicemail from Craig about jointing boards with a hand plane and possible glue up issues. We then went into our main feature for the day: a basic review of bench vises. We have a few recommended articles for reference: “Making Sense of Vises” by Garrett Hack – May/June 2007 Fine Woodworking and also “The Workbench” by Graham Blackburn – Tools & Shop 2002 also by Fine Woodworking. We also reference Chris Schwarz’s Workbenches Book.

If you want to leave us a voicemail: 623-242-2450

General:
- Tis the time for pre-holiday happenings!
- “The crazy woodnet article that won’t die.”
- Marc and Matt discuss Marc’s search for a long jointer plane primarily to be used to flatten panels and to flatten his workbench “the old fashioned way.”
- Matt talks a little about Chris Schwarz’s new workbench book.
- Kaleo, regular contributor to WTO, is coming home soon. Marc has been helping him to get his new blog setup.

Voicemails / Emails:
Glen – Email
Currently I have a cheapo jig for drilling pocket holes. It is preset for 3/4″ wood. I’ve noticed fine metal shavings coming out of the guide with every use, and there seems to be some play in the jig itself. Recently, I was working on some shelving made of plywood with this jig, and several times the screw blew out the end of the piece. I haven’t drilled more than 75 holes with this jig, and I’m wondering if this is just really a poor jig or if it’s operator error. I’m pretty much convinced that I need to get a Kreg jig and get out of the land of cheapos. Which Kreg would you guys recommend?

Andrew – Email
What’s the best finishing technique for a person who does not have access to a spray gun, a booth, or both? What’s the best way to finish a piece of wood furniture if it’s going to be stained first? What is the difference between stain and varnish?

Jonathan – Email
Here are a list of questions to keep you podcasting in to the New Year:
1) What is the dumbest thing you’ve ever done in the workshop?
2) If you were the great “woodini” and could see in to the future, what do you think are going to be the newest trends in woodworking? New tools? New techniques? Will the hand tool fanatics finally rise up and defeat the horsepower hordes in a final ragnarok of woodworking?
3) What are your woodworking New Year’s resolutions?
4) Who would win in a full contact cage match: Norm Abram, Scott Phillips, or Roy Underhill?
5) What is your least favorite woodworking tool that you can’t live without?
What are your answers to these questions? Let us know in the comments!

Rudy – Email
I’ve got a 3 HP cabinet saw with a Forrest Woodworker 2 blade. When I rip wood, I get a smooth cut on the piece between the blade and the fence, but the piece on the outside of the blade is always rough. I’ve checked my saw alignment and it’s all fine. My miter slots are parallel to the blade, and the fence is parallel to the miter slots. Do you think that this rough cut could be a result of the blade being dull? Any thoughts on the matter would be appreciated.