100- Low Entertainment Center Pt. 4
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An important aspect of building furniture that many new woodworkers overlook, is the importance of finishing BEFORE the project is completely glued together. That’s the primary focus of this part of the series.
A few of the topics covered in this part:
- How to deal with color differences between plywood and solid wood trim.
- Raising the grain and applying water-based dyes.
- Theory and application of wiping varnish.
- Creating shelf pin holes for adjustable shelving.
- Applying angled trim to the shelves.
- Final glueup and clamping strategy.
I mentioned my finishing DVD in the video, so here’s a quick link for anyone who might be interested. A Simple Varnish Finish
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JIG IT® Shelving Jig Our original JIG IT® Shelving Jig is now even better! Get perfectly, consistently spaced and centered shelf-pin holes! |
**New Project Plan!!**
If you are interested, we now have a digital plan available for this project. The set includes a PDF plan/cutlist and a full-featured Sketchup file. The download is available in the Wood Whisperer Store.
Quick Links:
Low Entertainment Center Pt. 1
Low Entertainment Center Pt. 2
Low Entertainment Center Pt. 3
Low Entertainment Center Pt. 4
Low Entertainment Center Pt. 5
How To Finish Without Streaks? – Viewer Question
This Viewer Question is from Matt and its a little different than what we usually do. Instead of a simple question and a simple answer, this is an example of a long exchange that eventually leads to an excellent result and a happy ending. As you’ll see, it never hurts to ask questions!
I’m hoping you can help me with a finishing problem I’m having. I have completed a bubinga veneer coffee table, which I’m sure you are familiar with, as it is a David Marks’ design. In the past, I have always had good success with the General Finishes Arm-R-Seal Satin product on much smaller projects/surfaces. However, the large surface (18″ x 44″) of the table top is giving me fits. I can’t seem to produce a finish with this product that is streak or haze free. My technique thus far included:
1. First coat the surface with Seal-A-Cell followed by a light sanding with 320 grit.
2. I apply the Arm-R-Seal with a foam brush, spreading as thin as possible then wiping with a cotton rag, as lightly as possible. All application and wiping is done with the grain. I’ll work an area approximately equal to 1/4 the table top at a time.
3. Inevitably, as I’m about to move to the next section of the top, the wet edges of the previously wiped area are already setting up, making it difficult to blend the wet section back into the previous section.
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Sanding Too Much? – Viewer Question
This question comes from Michael who asks:
“When sanding, I usually sand down to 400 grit. I saw one of your videos where you sand to 180 grit. Am I sanding too much?”
And my response:
Hey Michael. In my opinion, yes. I believe that after 150-180 grit (on most woods), we have a case of diminishing returns. The whole idea with sanding the wood is not necessarily to get it as smmoth as glass. Rather, its to give the wood a clean, even, and scratch-free appearance. To be more accurate, there are always going to be scratches in the surface. But by sanding with the grain, or in a completely random pattern (as with a random orbit sander), your eye will never see them. And the number that I find removes all visible scratches is 180 grit. Sometimes I am even happy with 150, but I usually go to 180 just for good measure. Sanding up to 400 really isn’t going to give you a smoother finish in the end. Because after the first coat of finish is applied, you are no longer dealing with the raw wood. You are dealing with the finish. With sanding between each coat, you’ll have ample opportunity to smooth the surface to your liking. So that’s why I say make the wood look perfect, but don’t worry about it not being glass smooth. That’s what the finish is for. And just as an FYI, I usually increase my grits between each coat of finish. So I sand the bare wood to 180. After the first coat of finish dries, I sand with 320. 400 after the second coat. And 600 between every coat thereafter. On the final coat, depending on the look I am going for, I may buff the surface with 1000 or 2000 grit soft pads. This helps to smooth out any little dust nibs.
Now this is just what works for me. How far do you guys sand your projects?
Bubbles in my Finish? Viewer Question
This week’s question comes from Zac who asks; “I am sealing a door I stained and I keep getting these little bitty air bubbles. I can sand them off, but they keep coming back. What do I do?”
And my response was: “Hey Zac. Bubbles can come from a few different sources. One can be the wood itself. The pores and pockets on the surface of open pored woods like oak and ash can sometimes trap air, which wants to bubble out after you coat it with finish. You can also introduce air into the finish if there is a lot of air in your brush (if you are brushing). Letting the brush soak in your solvent for a while before using it and being careful not to agitate the brush too much will help quite a bit. Bad brushing technique will also lead to bubbles. So depending on what you are using and how you are using it, the culprit could be a number of things. One of the best ways I know to prevent bubbles is to wipe the finish on with a rag instead of using a brush. You will need to dilute the finish about 50% with mineral spirits or naptha, and as a result, you’ll have to apply more coats. But its well worth it for the smooth finish you’ll get in return. Good luck!
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