30- Tablesaw Outfeed Table
High Resolution Version
A few weeks ago, I added the Incra TSIII Fence System to my tablesaw. Unfortunately, my old outfeed table didn’t really work with the new system. So its time to build a new one. This isn’t your average outfeed table though. Its a full-size work table with a full shelf of storage. Perhaps the best part of all is the fact that it can be made with a modest collection of tools and just a few sheets of plywood. No fancy joinery here! This is what I like to call, a “Can Do” project. Enjoy!
Edit*** – For those who are interested, here are some exact dimensions for you:
Long Stretchers: 62″
Short Stretchers: 38″
Overall Dimensions: 65″ L x 39 1/2″ D x 33 3/4″H
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Great episode. Very useful and simple.
hey, what the heck, where are the outtakes?
lol great job marc and nicole
I loved the magically moving clamp during the biscuit slot cutting – very cool technology how the clamp jumped out of your way!!!!
Awesome table – something really worth considering when cutting down full sheets one person at a time.
Marc, Your getting to good at these podcasts, I noticed there were no outtakes!
Whats this, no out-takes,
or was the video perfect the first time LOL
seriously though, great episode, do you think that table could be used as a router table…
Square drive??? They’re called Robertsons.Sheesh….
I like the simple table. Norm did it a few years ago. He actually painted it blue. It is also used on ask this old house. And his has wheels. I just finished my torsion box workbench, not assembly table. The article by ian kirby from FWW 1982. I think you did an episode on this too. I cannot believe how straight it is. Zero deflection (even with 300 lbs.). YOur outfeed table is nice too. I am just wondering, you know that it WILL deflect and warp. Could you have made a mini torsion box to combat the problem. Or how about another skin on the underside to combat warpage over the long haul.
Is the straight-edge you used the one from veritas (lee valley). And do you use it to check the flatness of your torsion box assembly table from time to time? Do you still use your regular maple work bench (i think that you had to flatten with your dewalt router) ever? All of your projects use that NICE assembly table you made.
Very nice???…
Lates
you american boys are finally getting our patented robertson (non-slip) screws eh? Did you get them from Mcfeely’s. McFeely’s sells of festool as well!!!…
thanks again
I’m just getting into (read: wife is allowing) setting us a shop in the garage. And just getting ready to make a out/in feed table for my portable Jet saw. And again you have anticipated it, and made this episode just for me.
I had also been looking at Norm’s, and I believe his top is a slab of blue stone not paint.
Keep up the excellent info.
lol. You say Xerox, I say photocopy. :) I did actually get mine from McFeelys.
Alexander- Not sure that a small amount of deflection in an outfeed table will make any difference to anyone. As a general purpose assembly/ work table, it would probably be ok too. But as a dead-flat assembly table, obviously it would need some reinforcement and require a lot more work. I could have made a mini torsion box, but that would have defeated the stated purpose of the project.
That is indeed a Lee Valley straight edge. I love that thing. I use it to check anything and everything for flatness.
I do still use my maple workbench, but not as much as my other work surfaces.
Marc, I think your revenue model is now clear: “The Woodwhisperer, Director’s cut, with outtakes”
Downloading the podcast now. Looking forward to it.
Matt
Oh and about the outtakes. If Nicole films, we get outtakes. If Nicole doesnt film, we get a long series of curse words. :) So blame Nicole. hehe
LOL – Marc about the outtakes.
This design is very similar to a bunch of tables and shelving I have made in the past. I find it easier to build the decks first and add the legs last. If you you are building a permanent structure you can level the decks as you attach the legs and forget the extra hardware.
nice Marc…very nice. I appreciated your wisdom tidbit about measuring the middle supports at the ends due to the deflection of the long stretchers. Once again, another seemingly simple and logical technique in which the failure to account for it had screwed up a number of my projects in the past.
thanks!
Mark another cool 2 new episode’s its amazing how close to home ya hit with your projects keep up the good work and I’m sure we all wouldn’t mind see different products on your podcast’s because the alternative is that its not worth all the time and effort you and Nichole put into these. By the way is it to early to tell how the tenure blade is holding up.
… and you just had that metal fence ground to add to your OE fence!!! Oh well, the Incra system does look nice. I’m in the planning stage of setting up my shop (one car garage) and I had planned to use Norm’s “borrowed design” for an out-feed table as well. I planned on removing one of the long stretchers (and putting gussets to help support the legs) so that I can store my 13″ planar underneath it. I picked up a used lift table to put my planar on and thought I could store it there. Thanks for pointing out the dust collection interference issue. I guess it back to the drawing board, or use an 90º elbow coming right out from the TS. Thanks!!
And the top on Norm’s table is MDF painted blue.
Mark, I enjoyed your out feed table segment. The video was very sharp and the sound was clear. It’s a big improvement from your earliest productions.
In regards to the table, I build a lot of jigs and shop aids with baltic birch plywood. Your raw exposed plywood ends on the legs and top will soon start to peal the veneer layers back in addition to giving you a few nasty splinters. I round the edges of all exposed plywood end cuts with a bearing guided 1/8†round over router bit. This prevents the pealing back of the plywood veneer and splinters are greatly reduced. It only takes a few minutes and your project look nicer as well.
Marc you come through again. I have been looking at different outfeed tables to build for my saw and POW! you present just what I am looking for. Now my next two projects are the outfeed table and assembly table after a much needed shop cleaning from making firewood learning this wood thing. Great job can’t wait for the next podcast.
Good project. Nice table design. Thank you.
Marc thanks for the new video.
What is the rip capacity for the new INCRA fence system? The amazon website leads me to believe it is 32″. It seems like a pretty big drawback to loose your ~48″ rip capacity to move to this fence. Is there something I am missing?
Hey Ben. Your are right. Depending on how you work and what other tools you have, the 32″ could be quite a hinderance. For me, with the Festool system, its not an issue. But for many folks, it could be. I suppose thats the price you pay for the level of accuracy you get with this system. I will keep you posted on how well it works in my shop over time. If I did have to go back to my regular fence, I would really miss the dead flat fence and the killer microadjust features.
Great episode guys!
Excellent Podcast Marc! I recently recorded the NYW show where Norm made the assembly table. I’ve been saving it to reference when I make mine in the near future. You’ve added some great tips to the process, thanks :-)
BTW, I have the Incra fence on my tablesaw as well, it ROCKS! I never really needed more rip capacity than the 32″ it provides so that’s a non-issue for me. Besides, it’s more than a good trade off to have the micro-adjustability and repeatability of the Incra fence system. I also have one on my router table and love it!
Marc,
Just wondering if you had considered pocket screws for the assembly?
I find them to be quick, easy, and stronger even than I need. I do find they have an annoying tendency to creep on you if you don’t clamp them very well during assembly.
Hey Spencer. Pocket screws would have been perfectly fine in a project like this. No reason not to use them.
Would the dowelmax jig have worked for th assembly? I own one (made in Vancouver) and it is wonderful?
Dimensions have been added to the post. Remember these are dimensions that work well for a Powermatic 66 tablesaw. If you have something different, there should be enough info in the video to crunch the numbers and build it just right.
Marc do you have plans for the space under the fence to the right of the table saw? I have Incra’s router table top there, and I’m building a cabinet to go under it. I doubt you’d want a router there, but I’d be interested in how you’d go about using that space.
Chuck
Hi Marc, great episode.
I also recently mounted the Incra LS on my saw. I have had a heck of a time getting the Incra fence to stay perpendicular to the table and parallel to the blade. I tried all of the standard tweaks listed on incra’s site & in the instructions but to no avail. I need to shim the bottom of the fence out about 1/32″ and the paper shims keep working lose. Did you have to shim your fence to get it perpendicular?
Is there a way to cut a test board half way to adjust for drift similar to the exmple in the bandsaw video? I know you’re a busy guy, but it would be great to hear some insight’s you’ve gotten from your Incra install & setup. thanks & keep up the great work! -Jason
Hey Chuck. I do have plans for that space. Will tell you about it when I start working on it.
Jason-
It take me a few tries to get the fence setting right. But nothing like what you are describing. The fence was no more work to get right than any other fence. I did have some doubts as to the fence’s ability to lock in a perfectly parallel position every time, but it seems to be working well. I made my adjustments initially by keeping the fence locked near the miter slot and loosening the screws near the clamping mechanism. I would make a slight adjustment then tighten the screws. Then I would move the fence away, then back to the miter slot. I actually used my fingers to test if it would go back to the right spot by lining the fence up with the edge of the slot. You’d be surprised how accurate your fingers can be.
So once set up, I haven’t played with it. And setting it up one time by no means makes me an expert. Hopefully Incra will do right by you and make sure you have all the help you need.
To tell you the truth, I am not 100% convinced that the Incra is the fence system for me. I am trying to use it as much as possible to determine this. Its so cool and the adjustability is incredible. But something about doesnt feel “right”. I guess because the mechanism is so different than anything I am used to. so I need to really give this thing a fair shot before I make a final determination.
By leaving a space between the outfeed table and the tablesaw you are going to get all sorts of long thin pieces stuck on the edge of the outfeed table as you slide them through to make cuts. Even though you kept the table 1/16 of an inch below the surface of the table saw the exposed edges of the plywood are going to swell over time leaving a binding hazard. The entire surface of the outfeed table should be the top of the plywood. If you really must have edging to close in around the plywood sheet choose be a stable hardwood like poplar and apply a slight chamfer to the edge so that as the stock falls it will still slide smoothly across the table.
Hey Xander. It seems that my experience differs from yours a bit. This setup will be fine for 95% of the work that I do. Very few, if any, pieces that run across my saw are capable of sagging more than 1/8″ over a 4″ gap (I have since lowered the table to 1/8″ below the surface of the saw). If/when I confront something that might give me trouble, I will consider making the necessary modification to make sure the piece is adequately supported. I dont deny the fact that it is “better” to close that gap. Thats why I made sure to let people know they will most likely have to put the miter grooves in the table in order to get the fit they desire. But for me, at this time, the gap does not present a problem.
Also, the edges are all thoroughly sanded, rounded over, and coated with finish so the chances of a binding hazard are minimal at best. But never say never. Everything in my shop is a work in progress. If something poses a safety hazard, I will address it immediately and make the appropriate changes. I appreciate the heads up on those issues though.
Hey great Show love it, it was very funny when you was explaining alternative methods to cut the plywoow if you don’t have a table saw but i thought for what you need outfeed table if you don’t have one ;)
Marc – thanks for the info on the INCRA fence. I guess the grass is always greener – I bought a contractor saw with 30″ capability and have been kicking myself for not getting the larger 52″ system. I seem to always be needing the extra rip capacity!
Thats a nice table. Reminds me of a Fine Woodworking article that uses the same plywood technique to build a slightly more elaborate workbench. The table you built is a solid piece that can be adapted to any use in the shop.
As far as that Incra fence..I don’t know..for the price and the pain in the ass setting it up could be..I’ll stick to my old school Biesemeyer..us old guys don’t like change!
i personally like a fence that locks front to rear. THat way you have two points of contact. If the fence locks at the end, it CANNOT deflect period. THe other thing to consider is this: Can aluminium extrusion be as accurate as machined aluminum? Incra does NOT machine their aluminum, it is just highly accurate extrusion!
I like the old school beismeyer fences myself. (Even though this goes against conventional wisdom- the old style 9 finnish ply top mounted with high pressure plastic laminate was the best fence beismeyer ever made). How can wood be straighter than metal, i know, it defy’s logic; but it did and still does!!!…
Here is another question: how do you adjust it so it is square to the table from front to end? I bet a machinists square may tell you it is square at the front, but at the end, it will be OUT a lot!!!…
And why is it gold colour? is that the anodizing colour, aluminium does rust yeah know!!!…
Alexander, as far as I know the fence is actually machined. I have a TS-III and the face of my fence is machined. Mine came from woodpeckers back when they were still doing the woodshows.
I like the fence system myself.
Off topic… Your videography skills are really getting good. Thanks for great videos – I think they could go on any TV network at this point, so I really appreciate that you keep working with the site as a free of charge community.
It would be really interesting if you were willing to share some of the economics behind running a website like this – sort of like the old Fine Woodworking article about “working with multiples” from the late 80s. It’s not like revealing that info would make it any easier for someone else to catch up with you.
Hi Marc.
I like Norm in the New Yankee workshop, but, He used to show in detail how he accomplished certain cuts. For example before the pocket screw jig was availabe he demonstrated how to make a pocket screw jig. I made one based on his demonstration years ago and still use it today. There were many thing he did. Now he is too vague on almost everything.
I like your pod casts. I am glad I accidentally discovered it a couple of months ago.
Hi there
First time on here an really enjoying the dialogue and your videos.
I’m trying to design modern looking freestanding noticeboard for my school. Noticeboard size will be capable of holding upto A3.
Have you or can you advise of any plans for this. I have some ideas for the design but would like your thoughts on this massive project:)
Regards Trev
Hey Trev. I would say do a google search for “easel plans”. That should bring up some designs that you can adapt to your needs. Good luck and email me if you have any questions along the way.
I started trying to do this project, and Mark’s can do project is turning into my unmitigated disaster. Well maybe not that bad, but when your trying to make cuts in your driveway in 100 degree heat and things aren’t going your way it seems that way.
I was trying to make a version of this a little smaller than Mark’s as I only have about 70 inches of room. So, I was working to a table 70″ long, 41″ deep, and about 60″ tall. My first problem was when I realized by Bosch contractor/portable table saw fence only goes out ~24″. So, I was trying to be creative in making several cuts to cut the full sheet of plywood down. The problem, as any one may have guessed already, is with each cut I ended up more out of square and even a bit wavy on some. Not sure how square the plywood was to start, and manhandling the sheets by myself didn’t help the situation.
I don’t have a jointer or the $ or room to add one right now. Plus, I’m not sure how I would try to run 70″ x41″ piece of plywood through anyone one I could by anyway. so, does any body have any suggestions on how to get flat/square edges again? The only thought I had was to draw a square edge an 1.8 or 1/16″ below the wavy/no square edges and take a belt sander to the board. However, that’s not something I look forward to with 3/4″ plywood and 70″ long edges.
Also, how bad would it be strength wise if I cut the 70″ length to two ~35″ lengths and tried adding a center set of legs. The center leg would just be another vertical 4″ leg (1 side of the end legs). I know I might have to off center it a bit to still get the center stringer without really making things complicated. I was thinking this might help get to working with smaller cuts than trying to to ~26 inches off a 96″ sheet as a could take ~13 inches off a half sheet of plywood which would be easier to work with. Thoughts?
Once again ambition has exceeded skill,
Jeff
Hey Jeff. First off, sorry to hear you are having trouble. But, let me also say that I applaud you for letting your ambition exceed your skill. That’s the best way to learn. And believe me man, I do it all the time. Now what I suggest is that you use a circular saw for these cuts. Run out to the home store and pick up a piece of pre-primed mdf trim. They are cheap and usually really nice and straight. Use that as a straight edge (clamp it down at both ends), and use your circular saw to make all the cuts. This way you can get exactly what you want out of your plywood sheets and you don’t have to re-design the table. I used this technique extensively in my recent entertainment center project and it worked very well.
Hope that solves your dilemma. Good luck.
Marc,
Thanks for the advice. As luck would have it, I recently redid the baseboards in a number of rooms and thus had several pieces of MDF baseboard lying around. This technique solved the problems of the straight cuts.
Thanks,
Jeff
If I weren’t in the position of having scrap pieces to use for this, but was going to purchase 3/4th plywood, what would my purchase list read like? The store sells full, half and quarter sheets.
Three sheets should probably cover you easily for the project. Maybe 2.5.
Mr. Spagnuolo… Do you Know why I can´t see the video complete? It stop in the minute 8:10. Sorry my English. Thanks you. Isabel. Caracas, Venezuela.
Honestly, I have no idea. The video works ok for me. Flash video is pretty finicky and depending on the system, it might cut out early or not play at all. What I recommend is downloading the latest version of Flash for your browser. This will at least remove one variable. Beyond that, I would just recommend downloading one of the quicktime versions available right above the video. You can download the entire video and watch it on your desktop.
I was browsing the new video archive setup and came across this project. I can’t believe I haven’t seen it before.
It is a great, simple, useful project that I’m sure I will be recreating in the very near future.
Was listening to Wood Talk #58 and you mentioned this project and had to take a look. I am needing to upgrade my saw horse and Melamine table I have now and this will work great. For attaching the top to the base I was thinking using pocket screws from the side rails up into the ply instead of glue. This would give me the ability to change out the top without damaging the structure and not having screw holes in the work surface.
BTW just received your Finishing DVD great stuff.
Rick
Hi Marc,
Love your videos I wanted to let you know that you have been an excellent learning tool. Your videos have helped me get back to my long lost love of woodworking. I have one comment. Im not sure but i remember one video at some point indicated that you were not greatly pleased with the Incra system. Have you had a change of heart. I must say for myself I have seen the Incra system develop over the years and was always attracted to the idea of the system. Today I have the system and well as all tools it has its ups and downs. For me I love the accuracy. What I have learnt about this system and some of Incras other stuff is that it needs to be handled with a great deal of care. I would say Incra is for sure a plus in my shop and if you love the idea of accuracy than this is the system for you.
Again thank you, hope to shake hands at one point in the future at some woodworking show,,,,, keep up the amazing work.
Marc,
I noticed at the end of the show you mentioned that you used a pre-catalyzed lacquer to finish the out feed table. I checked at my local rockler and woodcraft but both of them didn’t seem to sale it. What product do you use and where do you purchase it?
Hey Chad. I used the pre-cat primarily because I had some left over from another job. I don’t know that its necessarily worth the expense to buy it specifically for an outfeed table. Good old off the shelf poly will certainly do the trick. But to answer your question, I was using Sherwin Williams Pre-Cat at the time.
Thanks Marc! I appreciate the info.
Hey Marc. I have a pretty puny portable table saw (face reddening as we type). The outfeed table will be a huge help for even normal size jobs let alone plywood. However, I am experiencing problems with the infeed side. There is very little room between the front edge of the table and the blade which makes it difficult to use the miter gauge with any kind of backing board or jigs. ANy suggestions how to handle this problem?
Don’t sweat it Dan. I am fortunate to have a great tablesaw in the shop. But by no means is a tablesaw like that a requirement for building fine furniture. Its what comes out of the shop that counts, not what goes in it. :)
As for the miter gauge, there’s a pretty easy fix. With the table in its final position, take a straight edge and draw a line that is parallel with the edges of the miter slot. Then use a router with the straight edge clamped in place to create a little channel, just a bit wider than the miter slot itself. That will provide the relief you need for your miter bar. You’ll actually see this on many folks outfeed table designs. On mine, the table was far enough away that the miter gauge never hit it. Good luck!
I just got a Incra 51″ TS LS with the Wonderfence for x-mas. Why did you swap yours back out? Was it because you had the 32″? Are you going to try the 51″?
Hey Nathan. Here’s a little review I did on the Incra. Should explain my feelings on it. http://thewoodwhisperer.com/impressions-incra-ls32-ts-table-saw-fence-system/
Hi Marc,
I’m really enjoying your website…and learning a lot! I have a contractor’s saw, so when I set the blade at an angle, like 45 degrees, the motor comes around on the back and would interfere with any outfeed table. I have a simple table, but I have to unhook it each time I change the saw’s angle. I was wondering if you ever looked into a fix for this…it’s a pain to keep taking the table off of the saw. Thanks,
Steve
Hey Steve. Excellent question. I think you will find a few links to plans here: http://www.toolcrib.com/blog/2009/01/28/15-free-table-saw-outfeed-plans-mobile-tables-folding-tables-outfeed-stands-and-more/
Been a while since I owned a contractor saw so I haven’t had my mind on a good solution. But I think you’ll find some ideas in that article.
Nice project.
One comment re: bottom shelf.
Couldn’t it have been done as one piece by dropping it in place BEFORE the upper middle support was installed?
Sure, but you are probably going to want to have someone there to help out. You can’t just drop it in so you will have to drop it down on an angle and negotiate the top supports. If you undersize it by 1/4″ or so, it would definitely make this easier. If its cut to exact size, its going to be pretty tricky.
Hi Mark,
What I don’t understand is why use glue, brads and screws together.
screws alone are not enough? Or why should I use also glue in my assemblies?
Thanks,
Kfir
Honestly, I am just a belt and suspenders kind of guy.