103 – Flush Trim Bits
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A brief introduction to the world of flush trim bits. Flush trim bits come in all shapes and sizes, but they all share the same basic anatomy. After watching this video, you’ll have a much better idea of which ones to buy and when to use them. I also do a quick demo using a pattern bit (a variation of the flush trim bit). This video accompanies my upcoming article “Get the Most From Your Router” in the December 2009 issue of Popular Woodworking Magazine.
And if you are interested in that big fat pattern bit, you should contact William Ng.
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Bubinga Sideboard – Viewer Project
Tom has submitted an incredible Sideboard project for our viewing pleasure. Let’s check it out:
I found this amazing Bubinga at Soboba (in Santa Barbara) and knew I’d find a special project for it. There was enough for most major parts. The amount of figured wood limited my ability to completely match horizontally and vertically, but I am pleased with the outcome.
Sideboard begins as a dovetailed case. Double thickness sides let me make the half-blind dovetails the easy way. That approach also means the sides and legs are flush on the inside, with a slight reveal on the outside. Vertical dividers have through tenons let into mortises top and bottom. Case is joined to the Legs with various stub tenons and dovetails on the outsides of top and bottom pieces. Legs have a very slight taper. This case is so bloody heavy that I was afraid to remove much material from the Padauk legs.
Doors are hung using Soss “invisible†hinges thanks to Marc’s video of the Gadget Station while I was designing this piece. Which created a problem…identified after all else was assembled of course. Without a face frame, the legs interfered with the doors. So last minute taper and rounding of the outside stiles was necessary. Opps. Drawers are hand-cut dovetails with solid bottoms. Inside material is Philippine Mahogany. I had planned to use ebonized something for the pulls but eventually decided to use Padauk which darkens quite quickly and visually ties to the legs rather than creating a separate contrast. Back is composed of ship-lapped slats in grooves at bottom and held at the top with a simple molding strip.
Click here to view photos including quite a few of the progress and process in slide show format.
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Water-Based Dyes and Pinned Tenons – Viewer Question
Ray has a couple of questions about water-based dyes and pinned tenons:
I am building maple morris chairs and I am thinking of using water based dyes from General Finishes. I would like to do the leg outside edges in say a burgundy or ebony and the rest of the chair in light or medium brown. My question is : How much, if any, might the color applied to the edge bleed onto the surrounding surface and if so, do you know of any tricks to remedy?
And this was my reply:
Hello Ray. Trying to do two different colors can sure be tricky with water-based dye. The water just absorbs so quickly and pulls the dye into the grain, that the color is difficult to control. So even if you tape it off, you will surely get seepage under the tape. So, if you are planning on making a crisp transition, water based dye might not be the best choice. If you plan on doing a bit of a faded transition, you might be able to pull it off.
Now the one way you might be able to get away with this is by spraying. If you tape off your edges, and spray very light misting coats, you could end up with a fairly crisp line. But take your time. As soon as the liquid pools, you are in trouble.
If you do wind up with the color set you are after, you’ll have to seal that color in without disturbing it as well. So very light misting coats of dewaxed shellac would be my choice. then follow up with your topcoat of choice. Hope that helps! Would love to see the results of your work!
Ray then wrote back and asked:
Thanks for the info. Doing further research, I think I am going to cover the entire chair first with water based dye, light mist of 1lb shellac and then gel stain for the offsetting edge color. How does that sound to you? Also, I am using dowel pins on the arms. I have double tenons on the frame. Do you think it is necessary to pin those? I am hoping not, but your advice would be appreciated. (pin the backrest tenons?) I truly appreciate your time and hope all is well.
And my response:
Sounds like you have a great solution there. If you mask off with tape, you should be fine using the gel stain. Just be careful near those taped edges. Now lets talk about pinned tenons. I have repaired more chairs than I care to admit. In many cases, a pinned tenon makes the difference between a chair that simply falls apart, and one that gets loose and needs to be tightened up. If the glue ever fails, you’ll at least have a couple pins stopping someone from falling on their butt. So if you can manage it, I would include the pins as an extra precaution. And just so you know, most of the chairs I repair are commercially-produced to lower standards than you and I would have. They are also chairs that were used and abused in restaurants. So essentially we are talking the worst case scenario here. If the chair is in your home, it will be a much lighter duty piece and you may not find the pins completely necessary, especially on the backrest. Hope that helps.
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102 – 3rd Anniversary Show
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Nicole and I thought it would be fun to celebrate the show’s 3rd anniversary by going back to Episode 1, and making fun of everything I say. Actually it was quite interesting to observe the state of woodworking content at the time and compare it to what we have today. Hard to believe the difference three years makes! But its been a hell of a journey and we can’t wait to see what the next three years brings!
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