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	<title>Comments on: 7- A Cut Above (Pt. 1)</title>
	<atom:link href="http://thewoodwhisperer.com/episode-7-a-cut-above-part-1/feed/" rel="self" type="application/rss+xml" />
	<link>http://thewoodwhisperer.com/episode-7-a-cut-above-part-1/</link>
	<description>Education and entertainment for the modern woodworker.</description>
	<lastBuildDate>Sat, 21 Nov 2009 01:36:37 -0800</lastBuildDate>
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		<title>By: Tricia Fields</title>
		<link>http://thewoodwhisperer.com/episode-7-a-cut-above-part-1/#comment-51125</link>
		<dc:creator>Tricia Fields</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 00:26:38 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://nrswebconsulting.com/thewoodwhisperer/?p=89#comment-51125</guid>
		<description>I was excited a few months ago to find a wood working site with projects to help a new woodworker, but that still produce a beautiful piece. I just finished my first cutting board and it turned out beautifully. I have two more planned for Christmas presents. My brother, a carpenter, couldn&#039;t figure out the pattern, and had never seen the end grain used that way. He&#039;s experimenting with end grain now too. I admit, as a new woodworker, the board foot specs were confusing, but I converted everyting to linear feet and it worked great. Thanks for a great site!</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I was excited a few months ago to find a wood working site with projects to help a new woodworker, but that still produce a beautiful piece. I just finished my first cutting board and it turned out beautifully. I have two more planned for Christmas presents. My brother, a carpenter, couldn&#8217;t figure out the pattern, and had never seen the end grain used that way. He&#8217;s experimenting with end grain now too. I admit, as a new woodworker, the board foot specs were confusing, but I converted everyting to linear feet and it worked great. Thanks for a great site!</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: Cory</title>
		<link>http://thewoodwhisperer.com/episode-7-a-cut-above-part-1/#comment-50559</link>
		<dc:creator>Cory</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 10 Nov 2009 22:57:52 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://nrswebconsulting.com/thewoodwhisperer/?p=89#comment-50559</guid>
		<description>Just wanted to say that I really enjoy your site and hope you are doing well with it as a business and hobby, I am very jealous, what better job could you have.
    Anyway I just had a possible design change for the cutting board, which I plan to try this holiday season when I make some cutting boards with some local Tucson mesquite. I think it would be more advantageous to use a cove profile router bit to make a rounded groove, maybe 6&quot; long, centered in the ends of the board as a place for fingers to pick it up. I just didn&#039;t like that if you wanted to use the other side of the board, there was real estate lost to the finger holds.  Just a thought, I know it will be a tricky setup to cut but I&#039;ll give it a try. 
     Thanks for all of the knowledge and experience you share, I look forward to new videos, they are are great and getting better.  Keep up the good work.

Thanks.

Cory</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Just wanted to say that I really enjoy your site and hope you are doing well with it as a business and hobby, I am very jealous, what better job could you have.<br />
    Anyway I just had a possible design change for the cutting board, which I plan to try this holiday season when I make some cutting boards with some local Tucson mesquite. I think it would be more advantageous to use a cove profile router bit to make a rounded groove, maybe 6&#8243; long, centered in the ends of the board as a place for fingers to pick it up. I just didn&#8217;t like that if you wanted to use the other side of the board, there was real estate lost to the finger holds.  Just a thought, I know it will be a tricky setup to cut but I&#8217;ll give it a try.<br />
     Thanks for all of the knowledge and experience you share, I look forward to new videos, they are are great and getting better.  Keep up the good work.</p>
<p>Thanks.</p>
<p>Cory</p>
]]></content:encoded>
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	<item>
		<title>By: tom</title>
		<link>http://thewoodwhisperer.com/episode-7-a-cut-above-part-1/#comment-47591</link>
		<dc:creator>tom</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 25 Sep 2009 03:28:24 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://nrswebconsulting.com/thewoodwhisperer/?p=89#comment-47591</guid>
		<description>tucker</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>tucker</p>
]]></content:encoded>
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	<item>
		<title>By: thewoodwhisperer</title>
		<link>http://thewoodwhisperer.com/episode-7-a-cut-above-part-1/#comment-47077</link>
		<dc:creator>thewoodwhisperer</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 07 Sep 2009 01:59:28 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://nrswebconsulting.com/thewoodwhisperer/?p=89#comment-47077</guid>
		<description>Hey Shawn.  See above.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hey Shawn.  See above.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: thewoodwhisperer</title>
		<link>http://thewoodwhisperer.com/episode-7-a-cut-above-part-1/#comment-47076</link>
		<dc:creator>thewoodwhisperer</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 07 Sep 2009 01:59:09 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://nrswebconsulting.com/thewoodwhisperer/?p=89#comment-47076</guid>
		<description>Well, there are no absolutes here.  All I can say is that the smaller the board, the less you need to be concerned about grain orientation.  Larger butcher blocks it can be a much bigger issue.  For these boards, I usually don&#039;t worry about it and fortunately I haven&#039;t had any issues.  Nor have I heard of anyone reporting cracking or splits.  But if you can orient the grain uniformly without much trouble, then you should try to.  And if you want to go any larger than this board, you should really consider it.  Good luck!</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Well, there are no absolutes here.  All I can say is that the smaller the board, the less you need to be concerned about grain orientation.  Larger butcher blocks it can be a much bigger issue.  For these boards, I usually don&#8217;t worry about it and fortunately I haven&#8217;t had any issues.  Nor have I heard of anyone reporting cracking or splits.  But if you can orient the grain uniformly without much trouble, then you should try to.  And if you want to go any larger than this board, you should really consider it.  Good luck!</p>
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		<title>By: Shawn</title>
		<link>http://thewoodwhisperer.com/episode-7-a-cut-above-part-1/#comment-47074</link>
		<dc:creator>Shawn</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 07 Sep 2009 01:32:41 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://nrswebconsulting.com/thewoodwhisperer/?p=89#comment-47074</guid>
		<description>Hey Marc,

I just made one of your endgrain cutting boards out of hard maple.  I was going to make a few more. 

Is it important to align the endgrain for expansion/contraction?

I didn&#039;t do it on the first one and wonder if that increases the odds of cracking.

Thanks for the podcasts!

shawn</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hey Marc,</p>
<p>I just made one of your endgrain cutting boards out of hard maple.  I was going to make a few more. </p>
<p>Is it important to align the endgrain for expansion/contraction?</p>
<p>I didn&#8217;t do it on the first one and wonder if that increases the odds of cracking.</p>
<p>Thanks for the podcasts!</p>
<p>shawn</p>
]]></content:encoded>
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	<item>
		<title>By: Gary</title>
		<link>http://thewoodwhisperer.com/episode-7-a-cut-above-part-1/#comment-47045</link>
		<dc:creator>Gary</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 05 Sep 2009 19:40:08 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://nrswebconsulting.com/thewoodwhisperer/?p=89#comment-47045</guid>
		<description>Hey Mark,

Some folks suggest that wood grain orientation should be the same on large butcher blocks or end-grain counter tops to prevent cracks from developing.  For a 12&quot; X 15&quot; end-grain board (walnut &amp; maple), is it still necessary to orient the grain the same direction, or will a good glue job hold the pieces tight even if the grain isn&#039;t oriented the same?  I will be using a diluted salad bowl finish.

Thanks!</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hey Mark,</p>
<p>Some folks suggest that wood grain orientation should be the same on large butcher blocks or end-grain counter tops to prevent cracks from developing.  For a 12&#8243; X 15&#8243; end-grain board (walnut &amp; maple), is it still necessary to orient the grain the same direction, or will a good glue job hold the pieces tight even if the grain isn&#8217;t oriented the same?  I will be using a diluted salad bowl finish.</p>
<p>Thanks!</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: thewoodwhisperer</title>
		<link>http://thewoodwhisperer.com/episode-7-a-cut-above-part-1/#comment-45477</link>
		<dc:creator>thewoodwhisperer</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 06 Aug 2009 14:26:52 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://nrswebconsulting.com/thewoodwhisperer/?p=89#comment-45477</guid>
		<description>You can, but you will change the final dimensions of the board, making the long dimension even longer.  Using thicker material will make all the little squares wider. And using longer strips means you&#039;ll have more rows, again contributing to the board being longer.  At some point the board&#039;s proportions are going to start looking odd.  So its completely up to you how far to go with it.  But the short answer is you can definitely do it.  

If I were in your situation, I would probably be ok with the extra 1/8&quot; thickness.  That would translate to a board that&#039;s 1 3/8&quot; longer than what&#039;s called for in the plan.   Not too bad. Now add a couple extra rows and the board is going to get really long.  A little too long for my tastes.

Hope that helps.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>You can, but you will change the final dimensions of the board, making the long dimension even longer.  Using thicker material will make all the little squares wider. And using longer strips means you&#8217;ll have more rows, again contributing to the board being longer.  At some point the board&#8217;s proportions are going to start looking odd.  So its completely up to you how far to go with it.  But the short answer is you can definitely do it.  </p>
<p>If I were in your situation, I would probably be ok with the extra 1/8&#8243; thickness.  That would translate to a board that&#8217;s 1 3/8&#8243; longer than what&#8217;s called for in the plan.   Not too bad. Now add a couple extra rows and the board is going to get really long.  A little too long for my tastes.</p>
<p>Hope that helps.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
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	<item>
		<title>By: S. Baum</title>
		<link>http://thewoodwhisperer.com/episode-7-a-cut-above-part-1/#comment-45472</link>
		<dc:creator>S. Baum</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 06 Aug 2009 05:12:00 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://nrswebconsulting.com/thewoodwhisperer/?p=89#comment-45472</guid>
		<description>Marc:
Me again.  I&#039;m the guy committed to hand tools.

I just took delivery of some gorgeous wood from Bell Forest.  The only problem is, it&#039;s milled to 1-3/4&quot;, not 1-5/8&quot;.  I&#039;m not complaining, but I&#039;m also not inclined to try to chisel, scrape or sand that last 1/8 inch off.  Plus there&#039;s a good 21 inches of length.

Waste not, want not.  Bigger the better.  But being new at this, I don&#039;t want to screw things up blithely changing measurements, especially since I&#039;m not particularly adroit at thinking in three dimensions. 

Can I use the full height and length, and just cut fifteen 1-1/4&quot; strips (instead of 11) when the time comes, all other things being equal?</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Marc:<br />
Me again.  I&#8217;m the guy committed to hand tools.</p>
<p>I just took delivery of some gorgeous wood from Bell Forest.  The only problem is, it&#8217;s milled to 1-3/4&#8243;, not 1-5/8&#8243;.  I&#8217;m not complaining, but I&#8217;m also not inclined to try to chisel, scrape or sand that last 1/8 inch off.  Plus there&#8217;s a good 21 inches of length.</p>
<p>Waste not, want not.  Bigger the better.  But being new at this, I don&#8217;t want to screw things up blithely changing measurements, especially since I&#8217;m not particularly adroit at thinking in three dimensions. </p>
<p>Can I use the full height and length, and just cut fifteen 1-1/4&#8243; strips (instead of 11) when the time comes, all other things being equal?</p>
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		<title>By: Tommy_Joe</title>
		<link>http://thewoodwhisperer.com/episode-7-a-cut-above-part-1/#comment-45437</link>
		<dc:creator>Tommy_Joe</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 05 Aug 2009 15:32:15 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://nrswebconsulting.com/thewoodwhisperer/?p=89#comment-45437</guid>
		<description>Thank you for your response!  I do have oad scraps in the the shop from other projects, so I can give that a try.  

I have subscribed to your newsletter and podcast info.  Making millions would be nice (and we&#039;ll certainly talk then), but I&#039;d settle for having my shop support itself and my small family in a small way.  You&#039;re doing what I would like to do, so I&#039;m a bit jealous.  (You are in good company with Kevin O&#039;Conner and Norm Abram. :-) )  Keep up the great work!  

Thanks again.  

Tom</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Thank you for your response!  I do have oad scraps in the the shop from other projects, so I can give that a try.  </p>
<p>I have subscribed to your newsletter and podcast info.  Making millions would be nice (and we&#8217;ll certainly talk then), but I&#8217;d settle for having my shop support itself and my small family in a small way.  You&#8217;re doing what I would like to do, so I&#8217;m a bit jealous.  (You are in good company with Kevin O&#8217;Conner and Norm Abram. :-) )  Keep up the great work!  </p>
<p>Thanks again.  </p>
<p>Tom</p>
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