Comments on: 60- Gadget Station (Pt. 4)

By: Danielmatic

Danielmatic — Sun, 06 Feb 2011 17:56:39 +0000

Jesus! You almost hit your comp.

By: Peter G

Peter G — Fri, 26 Nov 2010 17:27:42 +0000

Sorry – just a quick link. Here is Woodcrafts presentation of the tool: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v.....r_embedded

You probably allready know it, but now i’ve made sure.

By: Peter G

Peter G — Fri, 26 Nov 2010 17:15:43 +0000

Hi.

Thanks for a great set of videos. On thing puzzels me. I use chisels a lot, but for rough cutting square holes, i love the Fein Multimaster (no – i don’t work for them). It is great for releaving the wood, and makes the subsequent chiseling mush easier, because the Fein isn’t as restricted by the orientation of the grain, as the chisel.

Hope this makes sense.

The Fein is like a very rough powered chisel, so i would think it would be right up your alley :).

Cheaper systems can be found, if it’s just to try it out.

Best
Peter
Denmark
(soory for any mis spelling – english isn’t close to my first language)

By: thewoodwhisperer

thewoodwhisperer — Sat, 28 Nov 2009 18:03:05 +0000

I usually just let the glue dry for about 20-30 minutes, just so it skins over. Then I scrape it away. Any remaining residue gets wiped with a damp rag and sanded once it dries.

By: Shawn H

Shawn H — Sat, 28 Nov 2009 17:03:55 +0000

I just started watching this series. Again, another great project. I want to build something about this size only as a jewelry box for my wife. How do you clean up the squeeze out? Even when I wipe it off there is residue left behind.

By: thewoodwhisperer

thewoodwhisperer — Mon, 25 Aug 2008 19:38:29 +0000

Hi Dan. I have posted a couple things. But I also made a point to post those items in our forum. Check it out here:
http://thewoodwhisperer.com/to.....?topic=7.0

By: Dan

Dan — Mon, 25 Aug 2008 17:25:29 +0000

I thought I heard in your podcast you were going to post some pics of cabinets other people had made. If you have I cant find them I was looking for some inspiration :-)

By: Doug Arnold

Doug Arnold — Sat, 16 Aug 2008 19:08:19 +0000

I hope you had fun with Leo! I’m sure glad you were on there. It’s getting me back to woodworking!I didn’t know you were around.
Now I have to draw up plans for my charging cabinet. My main wood will be some walnut I purchased from a retiring professional woodworker. It is 1×12 and 10-feet long.
From the desert

By: smrk

smrk — Fri, 15 Aug 2008 19:28:26 +0000

I don’t have any Japanese chisels, but from my understanding they are a lamination of a very very hard steel on a cast iron body.

The idea is that they are so hard, and keep such a fine edge, you don’t need to sharpen them as often equalling longer life.

The backs are actually hollowed out to help sharpen them. Too sharpen them you first sharpen the bevel and then lap the back. the steel is so hard that if they did not hollow the back lapping the back would take forever.
The hollow grindings are actually shaped so as you lap the back the hollows ‘move back’ from the bevel edge, giving you the two flat planes you want.

Now remember I don’t have any Japanese chisels so my understanding may be incorrect.

By: Alex

Alex — Fri, 15 Aug 2008 16:58:31 +0000

Hey Marc, I just checked out those chisels you mentioned above, and I especially noticed in your episode with Kaleo (a particular camera angle) that the chisels have a double hollow-ground back. Now, I’m thinking in the long-term here, but won’t your chisel be useless after it’s resharpened enough times?

I mean a good edge is the intersection of two flat planes–the back and the bevel–so once you grind the chisel down to this hollow-ground area, the back is no longer flat and you will have an M-shaped cutting edge. I can’t personally justify the $50+ per chisel to know that after several years at best, I’ll have to buy new ones, or at least grind the fool out of the back to re-flatten it…

Just my 28.5 cents worth!! ;-D
Give me a shout (or an open-handed slap) at my email & let me know what’s up…