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	<title>Comments on: 6 &#8211; The Jointer&#8217;s Jumpin&#8217;</title>
	<atom:link href="http://thewoodwhisperer.com/episode-6-the-jointers-jumpin/feed/" rel="self" type="application/rss+xml" />
	<link>http://thewoodwhisperer.com/episode-6-the-jointers-jumpin/</link>
	<description>Education and Entertainment for the modern woodworker.</description>
	<lastBuildDate>Thu, 09 Feb 2012 23:46:21 +0000</lastBuildDate>
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	<item>
		<title>By: Daniel</title>
		<link>http://thewoodwhisperer.com/episode-6-the-jointers-jumpin/#comment-132403</link>
		<dc:creator>Daniel</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 04 Jan 2012 03:32:52 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://nrswebconsulting.com/thewoodwhisperer/?p=83#comment-132403</guid>
		<description>Really Mike? Really?</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Really Mike? Really?</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: Mike Piche</title>
		<link>http://thewoodwhisperer.com/episode-6-the-jointers-jumpin/#comment-126490</link>
		<dc:creator>Mike Piche</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 07 Dec 2011 03:04:49 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://nrswebconsulting.com/thewoodwhisperer/?p=83#comment-126490</guid>
		<description>Hi Tim,

I&#039;m a novice woodworker just starting to build up my chops and your site is the best site I&#039;ve found for finding clear advice and explanations. Kudos for you for developing such a great resource!

I just want to give you a heads up that you misused the term &quot;coplanar&quot;. Coplanar means that two or more lines/points in space are on the same plane. If the two opposite faces of a piece of wood are coplanar, then the board would have zero thickness! What we really want is for the two faces to be parallel. I&#039;m not trying to be nitpicky, but it confused me for a second when you said that in the video. 

Anyways, keep up the good work and I look forward to me videos and articles.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi Tim,</p>
<p>I&#8217;m a novice woodworker just starting to build up my chops and your site is the best site I&#8217;ve found for finding clear advice and explanations. Kudos for you for developing such a great resource!</p>
<p>I just want to give you a heads up that you misused the term &#8220;coplanar&#8221;. Coplanar means that two or more lines/points in space are on the same plane. If the two opposite faces of a piece of wood are coplanar, then the board would have zero thickness! What we really want is for the two faces to be parallel. I&#8217;m not trying to be nitpicky, but it confused me for a second when you said that in the video. </p>
<p>Anyways, keep up the good work and I look forward to me videos and articles.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: thewoodwhisperer</title>
		<link>http://thewoodwhisperer.com/episode-6-the-jointers-jumpin/#comment-124802</link>
		<dc:creator>thewoodwhisperer</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 15 Nov 2011 14:50:29 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://nrswebconsulting.com/thewoodwhisperer/?p=83#comment-124802</guid>
		<description>Hey Brian. This sounds like a good subject for a video. I&#039;ll see what I can do. But essentially, by removing the guard and running the board through, you will eventually get a 6&quot; wide jointed surface. But of course, you&#039;ll have some extra material that didn&#039;t get jointed. So the idea is you attach a 6&quot; wide piece of ply to that jointed area of the board. Use double stick tape to prevent sliding. Then flip the whole assembly over and send it through the planer. This way, the planer is referencing off the plywood surface. The rough 2&quot; overhang isn&#039;t touching the table so it has no effect. After a couple passes, the top surface is clean. You can then remove the plywood sled, flip the piece over, and plane the opposite side to get rid of the rough 2&quot; strip.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hey Brian. This sounds like a good subject for a video. I&#8217;ll see what I can do. But essentially, by removing the guard and running the board through, you will eventually get a 6&#8243; wide jointed surface. But of course, you&#8217;ll have some extra material that didn&#8217;t get jointed. So the idea is you attach a 6&#8243; wide piece of ply to that jointed area of the board. Use double stick tape to prevent sliding. Then flip the whole assembly over and send it through the planer. This way, the planer is referencing off the plywood surface. The rough 2&#8243; overhang isn&#8217;t touching the table so it has no effect. After a couple passes, the top surface is clean. You can then remove the plywood sled, flip the piece over, and plane the opposite side to get rid of the rough 2&#8243; strip.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: Brian Davis</title>
		<link>http://thewoodwhisperer.com/episode-6-the-jointers-jumpin/#comment-124794</link>
		<dc:creator>Brian Davis</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 15 Nov 2011 13:26:34 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://nrswebconsulting.com/thewoodwhisperer/?p=83#comment-124794</guid>
		<description>Ok...here&#039;s the scenario:  6&quot; Jointer with a 8&quot; wide board that needs flattening.  I recall but can&#039;t remember exactly a technique that can flatten the face of the board on the jointer.  Obviously the entire 8&quot; wide surface won&#039;t be flattened on a 6&quot; jointer. 

Earlier in this post James Maichel posted on  September 10, 2010 at 3:26 pm: “Primarily, the one that involves using the jointer with the guard off to plane part of a wide board, then running it through the planer with a piece of ply in the jointed area to clean up the other side”

Is there anymore information available about this technique?  I have heard of this technique but I would benefit from some elaboration.

Thanks in advance!</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Ok&#8230;here&#8217;s the scenario:  6&#8243; Jointer with a 8&#8243; wide board that needs flattening.  I recall but can&#8217;t remember exactly a technique that can flatten the face of the board on the jointer.  Obviously the entire 8&#8243; wide surface won&#8217;t be flattened on a 6&#8243; jointer. </p>
<p>Earlier in this post James Maichel posted on  September 10, 2010 at 3:26 pm: “Primarily, the one that involves using the jointer with the guard off to plane part of a wide board, then running it through the planer with a piece of ply in the jointed area to clean up the other side”</p>
<p>Is there anymore information available about this technique?  I have heard of this technique but I would benefit from some elaboration.</p>
<p>Thanks in advance!</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: Enin</title>
		<link>http://thewoodwhisperer.com/episode-6-the-jointers-jumpin/#comment-108556</link>
		<dc:creator>Enin</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 29 Aug 2011 22:45:14 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://nrswebconsulting.com/thewoodwhisperer/?p=83#comment-108556</guid>
		<description>Rob Cosman has a great video on hand tools and hand planing boards. it costs money, very informative though.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Rob Cosman has a great video on hand tools and hand planing boards. it costs money, very informative though.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: thewoodwhisperer</title>
		<link>http://thewoodwhisperer.com/episode-6-the-jointers-jumpin/#comment-104086</link>
		<dc:creator>thewoodwhisperer</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 12 Jul 2011 01:44:58 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://nrswebconsulting.com/thewoodwhisperer/?p=83#comment-104086</guid>
		<description>Thanks Jesse. Nicole is starting to feel a little better. Not a lot, just a little. :) 

As for the jointer, I don&#039;t actually have this issue. My guard sits just above the table surface, probably less than 1/4&quot;. So only on the thinnest pieces do I have a problem. So I actually like your idea of adding some sort of reinforcement strip to the front of the guard. As long as you are sure its securely mounted and won&#039;t come loose. Obviously if it comes loose during use, that would mean very bad things. :) You may also take a closer look at the guard mechanism to see if there is any way to safely lower it closer to the table. Just be away for the blades and make sure everything has its proper clearance. But not being able to go below 3/4&quot; of an inch is awfully limiting.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Thanks Jesse. Nicole is starting to feel a little better. Not a lot, just a little. :) </p>
<p>As for the jointer, I don&#8217;t actually have this issue. My guard sits just above the table surface, probably less than 1/4&#8243;. So only on the thinnest pieces do I have a problem. So I actually like your idea of adding some sort of reinforcement strip to the front of the guard. As long as you are sure its securely mounted and won&#8217;t come loose. Obviously if it comes loose during use, that would mean very bad things. :) You may also take a closer look at the guard mechanism to see if there is any way to safely lower it closer to the table. Just be away for the blades and make sure everything has its proper clearance. But not being able to go below 3/4&#8243; of an inch is awfully limiting.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: J Smith</title>
		<link>http://thewoodwhisperer.com/episode-6-the-jointers-jumpin/#comment-104083</link>
		<dc:creator>J Smith</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 12 Jul 2011 00:50:07 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://nrswebconsulting.com/thewoodwhisperer/?p=83#comment-104083</guid>
		<description>Hey Marc,

   Would definitely love to see the other tequniques you mentioned in your &quot;updated&quot; comment to the video.  Perhaps a little more in-depth look into the milling process.  I&#039;ve had my planer for awhile, never got to use it because I had no jointer, but I recently got my jointer and got to mill my first boards this past weekend YEAH!  

   I have a question though: the instructions for my jointer (Ridgid 6 1/8&quot;) says to never pass a board over the jointer that is less than 3/4&quot; thick because it could get caught in the blade guard.  I measured the height of my blade guard from the surface and it&#039;s got a gap of 5/8&quot;.  Although it is always best (and &quot;cheaper&quot; per b/f) to buy 4/4 - 8/4 boards and thus safer on the jointer, it seems to me that anywhere from 1/2&quot; - 5/8&quot; thick boards are a very popular size for many projects.  So, now with the question, how do you, or how is the safest way to pass a board over the jointer if it is thinner than the gap from your top to the blade guard?  Taking the blade guard off is not a great idea, especially with smaller pieces so I thought of perhaps gluing a strip of melamine edgebanding to the face of the blade guard leaving only about 1/4&quot; - 3/8&quot; gap from the top to the guard.  What do you think or what are your suggestions (or anyone else facing these problems) or what do you do to combat this problem?

   Thanks everyone and keep up the good work Marc.  My families thoughts and prayers are with you and Nicole and I hope she feels better soon.

Jesse</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hey Marc,</p>
<p>   Would definitely love to see the other tequniques you mentioned in your &#8220;updated&#8221; comment to the video.  Perhaps a little more in-depth look into the milling process.  I&#8217;ve had my planer for awhile, never got to use it because I had no jointer, but I recently got my jointer and got to mill my first boards this past weekend YEAH!  </p>
<p>   I have a question though: the instructions for my jointer (Ridgid 6 1/8&#8243;) says to never pass a board over the jointer that is less than 3/4&#8243; thick because it could get caught in the blade guard.  I measured the height of my blade guard from the surface and it&#8217;s got a gap of 5/8&#8243;.  Although it is always best (and &#8220;cheaper&#8221; per b/f) to buy 4/4 &#8211; 8/4 boards and thus safer on the jointer, it seems to me that anywhere from 1/2&#8243; &#8211; 5/8&#8243; thick boards are a very popular size for many projects.  So, now with the question, how do you, or how is the safest way to pass a board over the jointer if it is thinner than the gap from your top to the blade guard?  Taking the blade guard off is not a great idea, especially with smaller pieces so I thought of perhaps gluing a strip of melamine edgebanding to the face of the blade guard leaving only about 1/4&#8243; &#8211; 3/8&#8243; gap from the top to the guard.  What do you think or what are your suggestions (or anyone else facing these problems) or what do you do to combat this problem?</p>
<p>   Thanks everyone and keep up the good work Marc.  My families thoughts and prayers are with you and Nicole and I hope she feels better soon.</p>
<p>Jesse</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: Wayne</title>
		<link>http://thewoodwhisperer.com/episode-6-the-jointers-jumpin/#comment-103205</link>
		<dc:creator>Wayne</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 30 Jun 2011 12:15:02 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://nrswebconsulting.com/thewoodwhisperer/?p=83#comment-103205</guid>
		<description>In response to the problem I was encountering earlier with small gaps between boards for my table top, I did eventually fix the problem. I did check the flatness on my jointer as you have shown in one of your videos. All appeared ok except for the fence, it was slightly off 90 degrees.. I also decided to take a very small cut on the board edge to get the two joining without gaps. With some care and light cuts, I was able to get tight joints.
Thanks again for great tips and a website I am truly learning from and enjoying!</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>In response to the problem I was encountering earlier with small gaps between boards for my table top, I did eventually fix the problem. I did check the flatness on my jointer as you have shown in one of your videos. All appeared ok except for the fence, it was slightly off 90 degrees.. I also decided to take a very small cut on the board edge to get the two joining without gaps. With some care and light cuts, I was able to get tight joints.<br />
Thanks again for great tips and a website I am truly learning from and enjoying!</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: Bryan V</title>
		<link>http://thewoodwhisperer.com/episode-6-the-jointers-jumpin/#comment-103088</link>
		<dc:creator>Bryan V</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 28 Jun 2011 22:32:40 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://nrswebconsulting.com/thewoodwhisperer/?p=83#comment-103088</guid>
		<description>This is a great video, and you do refer back to it quite a bit, which is good, because repetition is a good part of gaining knowledge and skill.

I started watching your pod-casts not long ago, if only my iphone could hold all your videos.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>This is a great video, and you do refer back to it quite a bit, which is good, because repetition is a good part of gaining knowledge and skill.</p>
<p>I started watching your pod-casts not long ago, if only my iphone could hold all your videos.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: thewoodwhisperer</title>
		<link>http://thewoodwhisperer.com/episode-6-the-jointers-jumpin/#comment-97464</link>
		<dc:creator>thewoodwhisperer</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 29 Apr 2011 16:20:34 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://nrswebconsulting.com/thewoodwhisperer/?p=83#comment-97464</guid>
		<description>My best tip would be to tune your jointer. Getting edges nice and straight is what that tool excels at. So if you&#039;re having trouble, it might just be out of calibration.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>My best tip would be to tune your jointer. Getting edges nice and straight is what that tool excels at. So if you&#8217;re having trouble, it might just be out of calibration.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
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