Episode 6 - The Jointers Jumpin

8 Responses to “Episode 6 - The Jointers Jumpin”

1. Paul on December 11th, 2006 10:31 am

   Excellent! A comment though on the router table alternative for edge jointing - I lack a real jointer, as would likely be the case for somebody looking to use their router table for edge jointing. The problem I found using the shim method to offset the outfeed side is the same as a newbie may encounter using a jointer - in so far as technique with regard to pressure on the outfeed side. It’s easy to turn your piece into some weird parallelogram or diamond shape. Yes you’re essentially making a small jointer on it’s side, but there’s an even easier way than using a shim. Simply take your straight-edge and double-stick tape it to your workpiece. Then, using no technique whatsoever, or even any fence for that matter, simply run it along a bearing guided straight-bit for a perfectly flat, straight and perpindicular to the face joint in one pass.

   Happy Jointing!

2. Tim on December 11th, 2006 7:47 pm

   Good show keep up the good work! Love the big resolution you post your shows to ITunes with. I was wondering why you couldn’t use that nice planner to plane both sides of that board you had? Where you just trying to give many different options to go about it or is a good reason for it? I have always been made to believe jointers were for the edges and planners for the face of the board.

3. The Wood Whisperer on December 11th, 2006 8:22 pm

   Hi Tim. I am glad you are enjoying the high resolution podcasts.
   I certainly could have just thrown that board through the planer, but remember that the goal is to get two perfectly flat and co-planer surfaces. If you don’t flatten one surface first, you wont be able to properly flatten the second surface on the planer.
   For instance, that particular board I was working on had a twist to it. So the board would tip in different directions depending on where you apply pressure from above. So if I sent that board through the planer, it would have come out pretty wacky.
   Now if you have a rough board that sits pretty stable and is relatively straight, you can sometimes get away with sending it right through the planer. But the proper method requires you to have a trued surface BEFORE it goes through the planer. In most cases, you can true a rough surface with the jointer. But since some boards won’t fit on the jointer, we need some other way to properly flatten one face before sending it through the planer. That’s what I was hoping my alternative would accomplish.

   And whoever told you a jointer is only for edges and the planer is only for faces needs a smack on the hand. :) You can and should joint the face of your boards first on the jointer. As mentioned before, passing it through the planer may not give you a perfectly straight and flat board. To see proof of this, think about a 5 foot board that is a little bit bowed. You can send that guy through the planer 20 times and it will still have a bow in it. The only way to remove the bow is to joint one of the faces first.

   And one last note, I sometimes use my planer to trim edges too. Especially if I am dealing with 8/4 material. After I joint the first edge, sometimes I find it easier to send it on end through the planer, instead of using the tablesaw. Works great!

   I hope that clears things up a bit. If you have anymore questions, please feel free to email me.

   Marc
   The Wood Whisperer

4. Creed on January 4th, 2007 3:35 pm

   re: Tim’s query: I’ve been taught a jointer is for making a flat surface, a planer is for making two surfaces parallel to one another. (Which is the essence of Marc’s comment.) It’s extremely difficult to substitute one of these machining steps for the other unless the piece was true and square to start with and all you want to do is dimension it.

5. David Genrich on January 29th, 2007 9:48 am

   Marc - first, I love your PodCasts. You are doing a great services to woodworkers everywhere. DIY Network should give you a show and pay you to do these!

   Now, for my question. You mention using hot glue to mount a board to a planner sled to remove rocking. That makes sense - but how do you remove the board from the planner sled once the top is flat? (I have never used hot glue, so that might also be the source of my confusion).

   Thanks,
   David Genrich

6. thewoodwhisperer on January 29th, 2007 9:58 am

   Hey David. Hot glue dries hard, but it doesnt really stick like regular glue. it sticks more like caulking. So if you use it sparingly, you can easily pry it back up off the board with no damage to your work piece. Its a handy trick.

   Marc

7. Mark Salomon on February 20th, 2007 12:46 pm

   I’ve been woodworking for a number of years and think that your episode provides the best single overview that I’ve seen–it does a great conceptual job without getting bogged in detail or tools. I suggest that once your viewers have mastered the basics they might want to consider purchasing a good hand plane . Hand planes are (1) the best way to quickly flatten larger surfaces (think tops of table and cabinets; (2)a better way to remove wind from boards; (3) the only practical way to surface highly figured woods.

8. Gordon Patnude on November 7th, 2007 9:28 pm

   Hey, I just discovered your videocasts through Fine Woodworking’s website. I have to say that you are doing an impressive job here, and I have added you to my favorite sites.

   I love your style of presentation - it is very natural, comfortable, informative, entertaining and sometimes funny. Don’t change a thing!!

   s/gordon

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