59 - Gadget Station (Pt. 3)
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This episode is primarily focused on the design of the legs. I present several options and show how I create a basic template. At the end, you will see the final test leg. The process of cutting the leg itself will be covered in detail when we cut the final legs out of the bubinga stock.
Links:
Gadget Station (Pt. 1)
Gadget Station (Pt. 2)
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great video Marc, great review of template making!
BSG Rules!!!!!
I think it’s Lee Adoma!!!!!
did i see that the case is being made from bubinga? i thought it was being made from jatoba?
Hey Peter. When I ordered the wood I told them Jatoba or Bubinga. For some reason, when the wood came in I just had it in my head that I ordered Jatoba. And in their rough state, I find jatoba and bubinga very difficult to tell apart. Even a milled bored can sometimes be tricky, depending on how pronounced the grain is. Anyway, it wasn’t until AFTER the live demo that I realized it was Bubinga. Hope that clear it up.
Hey Mark, Just a quick note on the table saw thing.
#1 you didn’t have a guard on (it’s not so easy to see what you’re doing with one on though!)
#2 If the blade is raised for thin pieces although you can more easily cut your self, there is actually less likelihood of kickback, because the blade then tends to hold the workpeice to the table. So if you then incorporate the guard (which can be a pain to begin with) your actually safer. On the down side you get a rougher cut from an overly extended blade.
I’m sure I didn’t tell you anything which you already didn’t know.
My regards,
Chaim
Hey Chaim. To clarify, I generally keep the guard off of my saw. I have explained it a few times in the past because I can see why people are concerned. From my experience, most blade guards tend to get in my way when using other safety devices like push sticks. So I dont use my overarm guard any more. The guard that comes with the PM2000 does a decent job, but only if you use the high profile splitter. If you want to use the low profile riving knife, you can’t use the guard. As a result, I continue to use the saw with the riving knife only.
Now I have heard this theory about raising the blade to reduce the chance of kickback and I don’t really believe that to be true. The general claim is that the blades applies downward pressure on the workpiece, thereby making it more stable. True, there is more downward pressure at the front of the blade. But what about the back of the blade? Isn’t there also an equivalent amount of upward pressure there? Seems to me it might actually increase your chances of kickback.
Tom Hintz wrote a good article that addresses this exact point. Let me know what you think.
http://www.newwoodworker.com/bldhtkick.html
I think I would totally have to agree about both points about the blade guard. I feel more safe without mine as well and I try to always keep my wits about me when it comes to safety!
And its funny you mention the blade pushing the wood down…..my wife and I both thought the same thing about raising the blade….it has the same force going up.
Keep up the great work!!!!
In the video you draw a curve on your template with another template. Why don’t you use something that flexes a lot and use that as a guide. You can even put in some nails at keypoints and flex against that. This way you have more control over your curve and radius.
Big fan,
Jeroen
From the Netherlands