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	<title>Comments on: 58- Gadget Station (Pt. 2)</title>
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	<link>http://thewoodwhisperer.com/episode-58-gadget-station-pt-2/</link>
	<description>Education and Entertainment for the modern woodworker.</description>
	<lastBuildDate>Thu, 09 Feb 2012 23:46:21 +0000</lastBuildDate>
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		<title>By: thewoodwhisperer</title>
		<link>http://thewoodwhisperer.com/episode-58-gadget-station-pt-2/#comment-53196</link>
		<dc:creator>thewoodwhisperer</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 10 Jan 2010 23:20:37 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://thewoodwhisperer.com/?p=1031#comment-53196</guid>
		<description>Hey Noob. Hard to say since prices vary so much from dealer to dealer.  I can say that Bell Forest Products, even with shipping, are pretty reasonably-priced.  Your best bet is to price it out and see how much better you can do locally.  Good luck!</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hey Noob. Hard to say since prices vary so much from dealer to dealer.  I can say that Bell Forest Products, even with shipping, are pretty reasonably-priced.  Your best bet is to price it out and see how much better you can do locally.  Good luck!</p>
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	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: noob-be</title>
		<link>http://thewoodwhisperer.com/episode-58-gadget-station-pt-2/#comment-53195</link>
		<dc:creator>noob-be</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 10 Jan 2010 23:18:39 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://thewoodwhisperer.com/?p=1031#comment-53195</guid>
		<description>Marc, 

Where I am located, anything other than oak 4/4 is difficult to come by, so I am extremely interested in mail order lumber. At the same time, I travel frequently along the western side of the rockies. Ultimately my question is would it be cost effective to order via mail after shipping costs, or should I just plan a stop to a hardwood dealer, bypassing the postage?</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Marc, </p>
<p>Where I am located, anything other than oak 4/4 is difficult to come by, so I am extremely interested in mail order lumber. At the same time, I travel frequently along the western side of the rockies. Ultimately my question is would it be cost effective to order via mail after shipping costs, or should I just plan a stop to a hardwood dealer, bypassing the postage?</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: thewoodwhisperer</title>
		<link>http://thewoodwhisperer.com/episode-58-gadget-station-pt-2/#comment-40084</link>
		<dc:creator>thewoodwhisperer</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 21 Feb 2009 18:03:28 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://thewoodwhisperer.com/?p=1031#comment-40084</guid>
		<description>lol, since I doubt we&#039;ll ever run across absolute pure H20 in nature, I think its a pretty safe generalization to say that water conducts electricity, at least for the purposes of this conversation.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>lol, since I doubt we&#8217;ll ever run across absolute pure H20 in nature, I think its a pretty safe generalization to say that water conducts electricity, at least for the purposes of this conversation.</p>
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	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: Matt</title>
		<link>http://thewoodwhisperer.com/episode-58-gadget-station-pt-2/#comment-40083</link>
		<dc:creator>Matt</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 21 Feb 2009 17:47:17 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://thewoodwhisperer.com/?p=1031#comment-40083</guid>
		<description>I know I&#039;m always about a year behind, but on to my comment:
Water itself is not conductor at all, it is the particles in the water that are the conductors.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I know I&#8217;m always about a year behind, but on to my comment:<br />
Water itself is not conductor at all, it is the particles in the water that are the conductors.</p>
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	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: thewoodwhisperer</title>
		<link>http://thewoodwhisperer.com/episode-58-gadget-station-pt-2/#comment-27927</link>
		<dc:creator>thewoodwhisperer</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 29 Jul 2008 18:31:18 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://thewoodwhisperer.com/?p=1031#comment-27927</guid>
		<description>Hey John.  Let me explain a little more. First, when I took the original reading, I had it in my head that the rough lumber was jatoba.  Bubinga and jatoba are very difficult to tell apart in the rough state.  And for some reason I had jatoba on the brain.  So the reference piece was jatoba and it should have been bubinga.  Now aside from that, none of my wood here in the shop registers on the meter regardless of the species, just because its so dry.  I knew that going into the video but I wanted to show how if you take a board of the same species, you can get a relative idea of where your new wood is and how far it has to go to catch up to the wood that&#039;s been in your shop for a while.  So I apologize for the lack of clarity there.  Hopefully that makes sense now.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hey John.  Let me explain a little more. First, when I took the original reading, I had it in my head that the rough lumber was jatoba.  Bubinga and jatoba are very difficult to tell apart in the rough state.  And for some reason I had jatoba on the brain.  So the reference piece was jatoba and it should have been bubinga.  Now aside from that, none of my wood here in the shop registers on the meter regardless of the species, just because its so dry.  I knew that going into the video but I wanted to show how if you take a board of the same species, you can get a relative idea of where your new wood is and how far it has to go to catch up to the wood that&#8217;s been in your shop for a while.  So I apologize for the lack of clarity there.  Hopefully that makes sense now.</p>
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		<title>By: John Leko</title>
		<link>http://thewoodwhisperer.com/episode-58-gadget-station-pt-2/#comment-27926</link>
		<dc:creator>John Leko</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 29 Jul 2008 18:21:34 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://thewoodwhisperer.com/?p=1031#comment-27926</guid>
		<description>Marc,

I&#039;d be interested in hearing/seeing more about your method of checking moisture content. I use a pinless meter, and am constantly adjusting for different wood species. It puzzles me how you can get a &quot;relative&quot; moisture reading if the wood species are different. Even Delmhorst meters have species adjustments.

Thanks.

J.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Marc,</p>
<p>I&#8217;d be interested in hearing/seeing more about your method of checking moisture content. I use a pinless meter, and am constantly adjusting for different wood species. It puzzles me how you can get a &#8220;relative&#8221; moisture reading if the wood species are different. Even Delmhorst meters have species adjustments.</p>
<p>Thanks.</p>
<p>J.</p>
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	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: thewoodwhisperer</title>
		<link>http://thewoodwhisperer.com/episode-58-gadget-station-pt-2/#comment-27885</link>
		<dc:creator>thewoodwhisperer</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 29 Jul 2008 01:34:20 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://thewoodwhisperer.com/?p=1031#comment-27885</guid>
		<description>Huggy Bear eh?  lol.

One some boards, wetting the grain might help.  But on these bubinga boards the grain was definitely obvious, although it may not have seemed that obvious in the video.  Definitely obvious in person with the naked eye.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Huggy Bear eh?  lol.</p>
<p>One some boards, wetting the grain might help.  But on these bubinga boards the grain was definitely obvious, although it may not have seemed that obvious in the video.  Definitely obvious in person with the naked eye.</p>
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	<item>
		<title>By: Germain</title>
		<link>http://thewoodwhisperer.com/episode-58-gadget-station-pt-2/#comment-27882</link>
		<dc:creator>Germain</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 29 Jul 2008 01:08:13 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://thewoodwhisperer.com/?p=1031#comment-27882</guid>
		<description>Word up, Huggy Bear!  Er, I mean, hey, Marc.

Looks like you&#039;ve uncorked yet another effective and highly informative video. When you were noting the grain patterns on your first board, were they that obvious? Would it have helped to &quot;wet&quot; the board to see the grain patterns? Or, is that necessary only on some pieces with less obvious grain.

Keep on truckin&#039;.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Word up, Huggy Bear!  Er, I mean, hey, Marc.</p>
<p>Looks like you&#8217;ve uncorked yet another effective and highly informative video. When you were noting the grain patterns on your first board, were they that obvious? Would it have helped to &#8220;wet&#8221; the board to see the grain patterns? Or, is that necessary only on some pieces with less obvious grain.</p>
<p>Keep on truckin&#8217;.</p>
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	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: thewoodwhisperer</title>
		<link>http://thewoodwhisperer.com/episode-58-gadget-station-pt-2/#comment-27852</link>
		<dc:creator>thewoodwhisperer</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 28 Jul 2008 15:10:02 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://thewoodwhisperer.com/?p=1031#comment-27852</guid>
		<description>Hey Brian.  If you don&#039;t have access to the typical power tools that we use for milling (jointer/planer/drum sander), there are a number of hand tools that can help you get the job done.  And it really depends on how much work the board needs.  If its already relatively flat, you might be able to get away with a few passes from a smoothing plane.  But if the piece needs a lot of work you might want to step back to a plane that will allow you to hog out more material per pass.  Also, for light smoothing work, you could always try a card scraper or a cabinet scraper.  

On the power tool side, a belt sand could certainly get the job done.  Although its a beast to control sometimes.  

Good luck.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hey Brian.  If you don&#8217;t have access to the typical power tools that we use for milling (jointer/planer/drum sander), there are a number of hand tools that can help you get the job done.  And it really depends on how much work the board needs.  If its already relatively flat, you might be able to get away with a few passes from a smoothing plane.  But if the piece needs a lot of work you might want to step back to a plane that will allow you to hog out more material per pass.  Also, for light smoothing work, you could always try a card scraper or a cabinet scraper.  </p>
<p>On the power tool side, a belt sand could certainly get the job done.  Although its a beast to control sometimes.  </p>
<p>Good luck.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: Brian</title>
		<link>http://thewoodwhisperer.com/episode-58-gadget-station-pt-2/#comment-27847</link>
		<dc:creator>Brian</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 28 Jul 2008 12:46:28 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://thewoodwhisperer.com/?p=1031#comment-27847</guid>
		<description>Hi Marc,

I love your podcast.  I don&#039;t use nearly as many powertools as you do as my shop is only about 100 sq. feet.  And I have to share that space with my wife&#039;s storage.

Anyway, I loved the fact that you didn&#039;t run that piece of figured maple through the planer, but through your sander.  For those of us without one of those gadgets, how do you recomend milling a highly figured and fragile piece of wood?

Thanks</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi Marc,</p>
<p>I love your podcast.  I don&#8217;t use nearly as many powertools as you do as my shop is only about 100 sq. feet.  And I have to share that space with my wife&#8217;s storage.</p>
<p>Anyway, I loved the fact that you didn&#8217;t run that piece of figured maple through the planer, but through your sander.  For those of us without one of those gadgets, how do you recomend milling a highly figured and fragile piece of wood?</p>
<p>Thanks</p>
]]></content:encoded>
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