51- Tablesaw Experience
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Whenever I have a new student in the shop, I try to convey what if feels like when something is going wrong on the tablesaw. This may seem like an abstract idea, but knowing how to identify a problem before it goes too far could give you that extra second or two you need to prevent disaster.
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another great episode, Marc! One thing I was thinking about when you were mentioning the feather boards and board buddies was about the placement of them before (or in the case of the buddies, after as well) the blade and not NEXT to the blade. The inexperienced might not understand the dynamics between the board and the blade relationship to place them correctly and make matters worse by pinching the work piece into the side or back of the blade…..ka-pow! Is it worth a mention?
Just a thought…
Mike
Marc, could you give the information on where to buy the various safety gadgets you showed? Also, do you know if the anit kick-back rollers David Marks uses are still available and where.
Just wanted to knoe where I might get an aftermarket riving blade or splitter fo my Craftman table saw.
Hey John. I would recommend looking at some of the standard aftermarket splitters to see if they make a version specifically for your saw. So things like the Shark Guard, the Merlin splitter, and the Beisemeyer Spreader. If those don’t pan out, I recommend looking at the MJ Splitter and their new SteelPro splitter: http://www.microjig.com/
Hi Marc,
Thanks for putting together this safety week series.
I’m curious why you didn’t mention the gripper pushblock, specially when you indicated you’re willing to use the metal pushstick on very thin pieces. I don’t have a gripper, but I’ve thought about getting one often as of late. Appreciate your comments on it.
Johan
Vic,
looking for these?:
http://woodworker.com/cgi-bin/.....TNUM=96974
mike- Definitely worth a mention. You just did! ;)
Johan- I didnt mention the gripper because…….i forgot. lol. I don’t use it all that often but it is indeed an excellent tool for small parts. Just make sure you don’t cut into it, lol.
Vic – InsideBevel beat me to it. That’s the only place I’ve seen that particular type. Most of the other stuff is either in the Wood Whisperer Store (http://thewoodwhisperer.com/twwstore/) or at Rockler. If there is enough interest, I can post links in the video’s write up.
Marc,
You gave some very good tips in the table saw safety video. One thing that came to mind as I was watching was that my own saw doesn’t have a zero clearance insert, and so even though I have a dust collector attached, it sometimes throws little chips and splinters back at me. This has led me to buy what Elvex calls the CoolGuard. It’s a combination face shield and earmuff set, and it keeps the chips out of my face (I also use safety glasses). Elvex notes that you’re not meeting the OSHA standard unless you wear the glasses too. I think my late father, an eye surgeon, would approve.
I use the GRR-Ripper and I think it’s GRR-great! One caveat, you’ll need 2 of them for long pieces, but for short pieces up to about 16 – 18″ it works very well.
You sound like Tony the Tiger there Ted. lol
Niece piece, Marc. The table saw is the #1 piece of equipment in my (very) small shop, and it can be very daunting sometimes. Two questions. First, what’s a “river” (not sure I spelled that right). I’ve heard of it but not sure what it is. Second, where can you pick up a splitter for a saw (in my case, a Delta 10″ contractor saw). Are they sold separately or is it simply a matter of removing the actual guard from the base piece? I took off my guard not just because it got in the way, but because I’ve had trouble aligning it such that the piece of wood between the saw and the fence doesn’t get caught on it.
Sweet! Thanks, Inside Bevel and Marc.
Repetition of safety, while maybe boring sometimes, might cause one to think before they act and prevent an accident. Just before I open the door to my shop, I hold up my hands and say to myself “Eight fingers and two thumbs. Keep it that way”.
great video marc, also important to try not to use the miter slide whilst pushing up against the fence. ( only in a few select procedures ).
i have a pressing question, can anyone help with the procedure for cutting a precise miter with rabbet?( or rabbet with miter?) that joint got handed to me for my final project which is a grandfather clock out of cherry. gotta use that joint for the corners of the base…this is going to be disasterous as i am not the most talented of woodworkers. got the passion but not the skill. oh well, i need experience, and i certainly have the ability to laugh at myself. sadly once i screw anything up its like going to the spanish inquisition when you go ask for more wood.
sorry to take up so much space on a non related safety topic. please help fellow woodies!
thanks!
jw
Mike- The unfortunate thing is that most some (if not most) stock guards and splitters are woefully inadequate. They may offer some protection, but at that sacrifice of convenience, maneuverability, and visibility. The good news is that splitter/guards are getting better. And many after-market splitters are fantastic upgrades for any saw. A few names to look up are the Merlin Splitter, the Beissemeyer splitter, the Shark Guard, and the MJ Splitter. You need to find one that fits your saw. And a riving knife is simply a different type of splitter. Its usually hook shaped. What makes it unique and more useful than a standard splitter is the fact that it travels up and down with the blade. That means you no longer have to remove it for non-through cuts.
JW- Unless I am not understanding you, I would just make the rabbet cut first with either the tablesaw or the router, and then cut your miters using the tablesaw, the miteraw, or even a hand saw and a miter box.
Hope that helps.
And thanks for all the great stories guys. Much to learn from eachother.
Marc:
I’m new to your site and I’ve been watching some of your older video’s I just finished watching the one titled Table saw Experience.
When I first started woodworking over 20 years ago, I was cutting some #2 knotty Pine. The more I cut the more stress was released and the harder it became to push the wood through the blade. Due to inexperience and lack of education I just pushed harder. When the blade hit a knot the knot blew out released all the pressure and my forward motion slid my left hand along the base of the table and into the blade. I may have not lost any fingers but the blade did pull my hand deeper and went across the entire palm before I was able to react. It cut all the nerves and tendons in my hand and I was out of work for a year. It took three surgeries and over 6 months of physical therapy for me to get about 90% of the use of my left hand back. They had to insert a nerve from my leg into my hand so that I would have some feeling of pain for safety. I have no opposition in my hand so I don’t have a lot of dexterity.
Had I watched your video or something similar, that accident could have been prevented. I now own a Saw Stop Table Saw just for an extra comfort level. I know that you don’t see the need for the extra 700.00 and I understand and respect your position but for me having that extra safety not only makes me feel better but if that feature was available it would have resulted in getting a Band-Aid for my hand and a new blade vs. spending a year just getting back to work.
Thank you for all your hard work! You’re doing a great job.
Tom