40 – End Table (Pt. 4)
High Resolution Version
Time for the fun stuff! The legs are routed and then shaped by hand with a cabinet-maker’s rasp. I then show you how you can use card scrapers and sandpaper to achieve the smoothest finish possible. And finally we will glue all the legs to the center pieces. I finish up by requesting suggestions for a top to the table. What would you do? And here is the link for the rasp I used in the show. It’s the 10” Pattern Maker Cabinet Rasp, 2nd Cut, #49:
 Nicholson Cabinetmaker Files |
End Table (Pt. 1)
End Table (Pt. 2)
End Table (Pt. 3)
End Table (Pt. 4)
End Table (Pt. 5)
End Table (Pt. 6)
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Very nice episode.
Would like to comment on the table top ideea, exposing the dovetail joinery works for me, however I think a look thru or center piece would look better. If you wrap the glass insert it will allow the opportunity to use a contrasting wood color. It seems to mono tone othewrwise.
It doesn’t need to be a drastic contrast but more suttle. A lighter brown posible Butternut. this is walnuts cousin. there is probably better colors than Butternut. Maybe some inlay work.
Your legs have so much form and style they beg for more in the top, to balance the whole piece. something that ties the bowed look of the legs to the top.
Please, anyway you go this a fun table to watch it be hand crafted, give it some thought.
Loved the episode
Kip
While watching you assemble your table undercarriage I couldn’t help but get the feeling the thing was upside down. The stretchers low gives a much more pleasing appearance (at least to my eye) than the original design. Visualizing the completed table just reinforces that feeling. It seems more stable. It’s not too late.
Thanks for the ideas guys. Kip, I really like where you are going with that idea. I will have to give that some serious thought. You have actually inspired a very cool idea. Thanks homie!
And Ron, I see what you mean about turning the table upside down. That really changes the whole feel of the piece. I think I will stick with the original plan but it’s interesting to note that the design would work regardless of which side is up. Crazy!
For the top i picture something along the lines of glass inserted into a round wood frame… kind of like how you would see a cirular mirror but see through glass. I think the frame portion around the glass could maby go on top of the leg posts rather then sitting them inside a groove.
similar to this in smaller scale..
http://img.diynetwork.com/DIY/....._4ca_e.jpg
this is actually a david marks contemporary mirror but i think a similar style for your top with glass instead of mirror would look tight
edit… I suppose it could also be square too. I think either way would work but just wanted to show an example of what I think would look good
First and foremost I think you should put your resume into Santa’s Workshop. You could join ‘Buddy’ and the rest of the Elves at the North Pole – because that was some incredible speed and precision with that rasp.
I think the table is looking fantastic though, and funny because I had a similar thought to Ron’s about using the table upside down. If used in this manner and you happened to insert the center piece from the other way then you would be able to enjoy the dovetail joinery in the middle, as well as use another piece of wood for the tabletop. The space between the table top and the center dovetail joinery would still be readily exposed.
This however isnt the case right now, so I was thinking that if you create a wooden table top, such as the butternut, or even quartersawn white oak if it is going to match your entertainment center and inlay about a 5″ in diameter piece of round glass. That in itself will intrigue people enough to look at it and question the glass, and it allows them to appreciate the joinery like the little hidden gem that it is. Just some thoughts.
I agree with Ron. I think you designed the bottom upside down. With the stretchers low, and the right top you will be able to see the dovetails without a glass top.
The other way, I think it will be a bit “heavy” looking because of the amount of material at the top of the table. Either way, I think you have a nice table in the works. But I do think you should play with the idea of making a top for the bottom of your table. :)
An addition to the shape of the table I think you could get away with shaping it almost like a combination between a square and a circle. If you take a square and slightly pull out the edges to round them over a little while still leaving the corners at each leg it will accent the construction of the curvature of the legs. If you then have the piece of glass cut to the same proportions it would still hold the shape and feel of the piece.
I thought the talbe looked right during the glue up as well. Upside down did look pleasing to the eye!!
And I think you could go with a wood top with the upside down configuration.
But I understand you not wanting to change it up this late in the game. Like you said, it’s going in your house!!
Keep in mind guys, that the dovetails are not visible from the bottom. All of the dovetails were stopped. But I can completely understand the upside down idea. Maybe on End Table #2 I will build it in the reverse orientation. :) When its upside down it reminds me of a flower bud. Kind of neat to think about. Right side up reminds of a spider. Go figure. :)
I was thinking a glass top on this piece from the get-go. Perhaps the glass surrounded by wood, but ultimately, a solid top would probably make the piece feel far to heavy and look a bit awkward, at least in my mind.
I’d go with something simple on the top, like a beveled round glass top, or the glass in a round wooden frame. With the free-form style of this piece, I really can only see round as a good choice, unless you go freestyle on that too ;)
Hey Marc,
I haven’t watched the episode yet but already they’ve convinced me that you should use the legs bottom up. :-)
But just thinking about it, if you don’t attach the top but put a heavy 1/2 inch (expensive) glass and wood top, you could probably use the legs both ways… and change it when different friends come over.
Well, whatever you do with the top it is going to be sweeeet, great episode, but man, “get me a whopper”, I mean “bloopers”,
Jason
Great project. I see the design as soft & rounded, I think a “looking glass window” in the center to show off the joinery.
I’m thinking round with a bevel or maybe oval.
Maybe you should check with “the boss” & get her take :-)
At any rate it’s going to be a beautiful piece.
Can’t wait to see hoe your going to finish it.
Wow Mark, a remarkable presentation of this new creation of yours. Thanks for sharing. You know, I am an fledgling, woodworker and I have a nice, relatively new shop to play in (my good fortune.) Professionally however, I spend a lot of time in Hospital Intensive Care units participating in Physician rounds on critically ill people. I have heard some of the best minds proffer their knowledge and allow me to say, Mark, you were right up there with this session. Bravo! I learn so much from you. You always teach well and you never take for granted that I know some of the small details you espouse and it really helps.
You are working such a really great piece of wood there. Walnut is one of my favorite woods to work with. Your furniture piece already looks terrific. I can hardly wait for the oil finish or whatever you’ll do. As Emeril say’s, “BAM!” Personally I feel like the glass top is the way to go. Beveled of course unless you wish to make a rim for the glass piece. Something I wouldn’t know how to do but it I fell like it would complete the unit. Fun, fun, fun… Again, Thanks!
You want something nice eh: well here i go! Take that glass you’re gonna get and make a circular 1 inch wide wenge frame. That way the frame can be attached to the legs, while the glass is clear to show off the jointery.
Thanks
Alexander
Hey Marc, outstanding piece!!!
Well, since I thought I was going to be the smart ass to come up with a “looking glass” insert in the middle of a wood top, and everyone else thought the same, then I will have to come way out of left field to offer something even more brilliant! Hold on to your hat….
What if you scrap the idea of making this piece a table altoghether. I am thinking hang it upside down from the ceiling, mount some lights to it and create a chandelier. This way, the joinery will be facing the audience, and add some crystal to the bottom to grab the attention of the viewer focused on the dovetails, and voila!! You have accomplished everything you wanted. Than go back and make some tables. Just wanted to mix things up a bit and think outside of the box.
Great work on the piece, and I will agree that you did an outstanding job with the education. It is refreshing to learn something about a task and use of tools that is not really talked about. I figured that rasp work is something you need to practice a bit, but I also figured there are teachable tecnhiques as well. So thank you for giving us even more knowledge for our bags of tricks too.
I also think it looks better upsdie down. If you were to make a wooden top with a glass insert, the top could be dowelled, but not glued, to the legs. Make location holes in each end of the legs, and you could swap the table around as the fancy takes you, though you might need two sets of dowel holes in the underside of the top. As for the timber, stick to what you’re already using, on the less is more principle.
As for the top, I envision a circle glass top that simply sits on small rubber feet. The rubber feet are glued to the top of the legs. Theres too many curves in your piece to start putting on a rectilinear top.
What if you got the glass cut as a “donut” in a smoked colour to match the wood, in the middle put a small wooden frame again like a donut then have a centre glass piece that is clear to show the dovetails.
I would also have a perimeter wood frame too.
This would give it the look of target, it would attract your eyes to the center… to look at that joinery!
Marc,
Funny how many of us like it upside down! I think the reason is visually, the legs kind of pinch in at the bottom, and when they are upside down they look more “grounded” more like what we areaccustomed to. Either way all is good, great work!
My other thought is: you mentioned some concern about the dovetails not showing if you did it upside down. Looking at it online ( and not in real likfe) couldn’t you remove some material from the top of the ” dovetail block” kinda sand it down till the tops of the daovetails were exposed?
Like I say, either way its very cool. Its tough to achieve such a good looking organic shape, cangrats.
Spencer
hi mark
very cool table. maybe i missed it but you are building 2 correct. your thoughts on rasps was very good info, you don’t like spokeshaves. they would work good for the shaping also ‘right’
for the top i was thinking glass but thicker and put a bevel down. maybe 1/2″ and a 1 1/2″ bevel, just for another visual line but to keep the top smooth. great videos, keep up the good work
mike from wisconsin
I’m not a fan of glass tops but understand wanting to show of the joinery. I thought about a glass insert in a wood top, then read the responses and realized maybe I’m not as crazy as I thought I was.
Even if most of the top was glass, a substantial wood frame around it would really compliment the rest of the design … which is very nice!
well, I actually prefer it right side up, and invisioned a glass top all along also. I think a wood frame around the glass would be alright, but I personally feel it should be kept relatively narrow to keep the visual weight down. In this case, if you do frame the glass with wood, i would think the main frame should be in the same wood, and only use a small contrasting ring if you wanted to use a different color in the design. BUT – if you used a different wood for contrast, I would think it would tie it all in if you used a little of that contrasting wood on the legs, maybe cap the feet or the tops. It’s probably too late to do it now, though, unless you want to “Norm-ize” it with some “glue and brads”.
It’s a great piece, kind of reminds me of Sam Maloof with the smooth contours but it almost has an asian turn to it. Uniquely Spagnuolo-esque, you could say. All in all, a GREAT episode! I’m glad you put some filler music back in. You fed us a ton of info, and once again spent the time on the details that make your podcasts so much more informative than a DiY regurgitation. One of your best!!
Thanks everyone for the incredible input. You have me pretty much sold on turning this sucker upside down, but I really hate the thought of not seeing the joinery. *sigh…..
But, either way, based on some inspiration I got from your comments I have come up with an idea that’s going to knock your socks off. I promise!
A glass top is a great idea for the table. However, it seems I envision it differently than everyone else; no wood at all on top. Rather, what I think would be great is a very heavy, rough cut glass top. Imagine a thick piece, 8-quarter at least, of a natural, tree trunk cross section complete with bark as the top. Now, recreate the same shape with glass to include the irregular shape and “rough” edges. ( Obviously, the edges would be polished and not dangerous.) You could even have shallow mortises machined into the bottom of the glass where the wooden supports would fit. Such a top wouldn’t be cheap, but it would be stunning!
You know, Marc, I think that it would be awesome to have a pair of these where one is “upside down” from the other. Of course, the center stopped dovetails go in opposite so they’re visible for both tables.
The one with the joinery at the top (spider style) needs a top with a 5 or 6 inch porthole of edge-beveled glass to let you peek into the joinery. A butternut or other lighter wood might be nice with a darker band where the porthole is inserted. The flower bud style table demands a top with some flower-petal inlay work. Again, a lighter wood with darker “petal” inlay work.
This has been a terrific series of episodes. We’re right there with ya!
Marc, I want to know what brand of coffee you use! If I could only work that fast at work!!! lol Anyway, I too feel the design fits better upside down, possibly with a place for a plant in the new upper portion of the legs. I think that the legs look like they have excessive weight on them right side up, so a heavier top would satisfy that look. I also think that a freer form top somewhat sculpted would match all the great work you have done so far. Something that could bring another set of dovetails or joint magic in the top. I also think glass in the center of the top would draw attention to the center dovetails in the legs! Maybe something smaller in the way of the glass like a 4 to 6 inch “Eye” into the top. Just a thought. P.s. Did you get the info on the manio wood?
Might be a bit expensive, but how about a piece of cut slate (easy to get over the pond?) with a hole in the middle to show the dovetails. I’m not a fan of glass topped tables, but an alternative to wood is sometmes the answer.
Keep it the original way up. To me it looks much more in proportion and as its just a wee end table, stability souldnt be an issue.
Slate also gives a different texture and feel to the piece.
On seeing the backdrop on the show, we should be calling you “Mr Festool”
Lucky bugger!!
Keep up the good work.
I like the glass idea, but I think what you call the top of the piece would be kinda neat as the bottom (upside down). Whereas it would look more weighted. I like the design very much. Great job!
Marc,
I’d keep it right side up. A thick glass top with NO beveled edge, just round and smooth. The wood frame idea is nice but I only see the window being covered up by a lamp. So, if the whole top is glass, then a lamp or book wouldn’t hide the view of the dovetails.
Maybe etch the underside of the glass with a 1/4″ ring all around the edge. Also some walnut coasters to match. Just some ideas.
hi; I like your stuff, great clean shop, ive got a example to try to follow. Ok on the table, i think ide make a wood edge any size wood be ok with glass inside , say1 1/2 ” or 2″ outside wood , think about it, it could bring the table together better & no glass edge? thank; for your pod cast. dan g. from il.
I am having trouble seeing the upside down idea. It wil look squatted. That way will make it seem shorter. the 2/3 rule is turned upside down, Makes it surreal, Maybe thats what everyone likes.
I think the original design is well left alone.
Kip
I think you had the legs in the right direction to begin with. The legs are the show item here and the joinery is a nice compliment. I would use a solid glass round top and have it overhang the legs. I would not route into the legs to make channel to hold the glass. I would let the end grain of the legs be seen through the glass. If the glass is heavy enough it won’t move.
It’s nice having the advantage of reading others’ comments before commenting. It IS a great piece. On the issue of right side up, or wrong side down…I like the original design. Mainly because I look across my room at my grandmothers antique and think of every other small table I have ever seen and the cross pieces are always toward the bottom. I like yours being at the top, its unique. And speaking of unique, why does evey “table” need to have the top be the main attraction? The base on this should be the main attraction. You put a lot of work into it so it should be highlighted. Chandelier?! DUDE! (not). Can’t wait to see the finished piece.
Great show Marc! One of your best for sure. I too like the table upside down. It reminds me of the setting for a diamond ring. There’s an idea! Maybe you can get some glass to look like a giant diamond sitting in the “prongs” (the four legs)? I have no idea how you would do that but it would be waaaay cooool ;)
If not that, then I like a thick solid piece of glass or a thinner beveled piece inside a wooden frame that is not square or round LOL… How’s that for indecision?
Best Regards,
Joe
Charlotte, NC
Hey,
Love the show, keep up the good work. As far as the top goes, I think that a glass top would keep the piece light, and open, conceptually. I would look at a heavy piece of glass, say 1/2″ and have the edge of the glass sand blasted. This would allow the joinery to be seen from the top while giving the top a solid feeling from side view. This would also lend to the sculpted look that you’re going for.
I’m looking forward to what ever decision you end up going with.
Thanks,
Bryan
Sand Lake, MI
Marc,
I think flipping it over is a must. I was thinking the same thing while watching the video. It looks much more balanced flipped over. I personally would go with a round black granite top. It would be nice to see the joinery but it is going in your house and you know it is there. That is all that matters. Great work as usual. Couldn’t help noticing the Festool array of tools behind you. I’m couldn’t stop salivating. You need to shoot your videos somewhere else. Your shop is too distracting.
I’m all for rightside up, smoked glass, no wood frame to it. Just the legs and the glass.
With smoked you have several colour choices, neutral gray and a warmer burnt sienna look. Not too sure which would work best in your case; perhaps the neutral colour.
Does sound like you are going to have to revisit this project and do an inverted version – but I think the curves would have to tweaked a bit to make it visually work better.
Marc,
What about a bent wood lamination with a diameter to center on the legs, laminations to total 3/4 inch thick. You could include a contracting laminations as well. Walnut and maybe a thin lamination of maple or ??
Cut the circle into fourths and then use dovetails to join each quarter section to the legs. Rabbit the inside of the lamination and the legs to accept the glass.
Have the glass beveled too. This would carry the joinery aesthetic started in the center joint. It would be a lot of work but I think the design of the legs deserve it.
Mark,
Enjoyed the latest end table webcast…and all the others for that matter!!!
You mentioned how to show off the dovetail center piece and I wanted to suggest maybe flipping the legs. Putting the top on the bottom I think would look equally as good and remove the need for glasstop of some type. I noticed the lines looked pretty cool either way and thought I’d throw out the suggestion.
I liked the glass top for the end table. Maybe some kind of sand blasted edge (rings or leafs around edge) would give it that professional look. With out blocking the dove tail detail.
Love the series here! My idea for the top would be -wait for it – a softly rounded octogon glass frame (1-1.5 inches wide?), with an identically-shaped, lightly-frosted glass insert. The frame and glass would have each corner rounded off slightly, maybe on a 2-inch radius or so. I think that design would really complement the curvature of the legs, while not being just a plain circle.
Mark
Great episode, I love the way this table is coming together. I can truly appreciate yout design on the fly methods.
As for the top, I dont know if any one has suggested this yet, but what about a round wooden top with pie shaped glass inserts, or some other similar shape to match the style you are going for.
Just a thought, keep up the good work.
Salut Marc,
I’ll give you some job for translating this ;-)
Je suis depuis longtemps tes épisodes qui me donnent de très bonnes idées. Cet épisode est une fois de plus à la hauteur de ton talent. Pourquoi ne pas faire un plateau ovale avec une vitre insérée à l’intérieur ?
Merci encore pour ton excellent travail
Cordialement de France
Marc,
Now that I’ve watched the video, I can see that it would look good either side up. I still think it would be neat if you could make it work BOTH ways. Then you could post pictures of it both ways and we can vote… After all, it is election year. :-)
Jim
WOW what a crazy post this turned into! Marc maybe you should make 2? On the one hand I agree with the others and upside down does look the best! Than on the other hand I would like to see the original idea done too.
Marc
I think this table is very nice. I also think that it would great either way stretchers on top or bottom. My question is this. I see you are wearing a hoody in this episode, so does is actually get chilly in Arizona? Claude Stewart from Michigan 0 degrees here
I have slightly different twist on the project for you that I haven’t heard yet….
I watched the podcast and before reading the posts I also thought that it looked better upside down. An interesting Idea would be to turn it upside down, put a small 6″ – 8″ round shelf suspended in the middle of the base. Since the dovetails aren’t seen anyway on the bottom. Then incorporate the same design from the bottom shelf into the top.
Lata,
Rob
How about something really crazy. A piece of glass by itself would be too thin, too flimsy. Wrapping it with an inch of wood is better, but still lacking. How about something to completely offset the round, organic shape? What about a 3″ thick slab of perspex (plexiglass)? Something with mass. I think the legs are extremely elegant, but still very “solid”. The top should reflect that. Of course, it could also look horrible. Fine line between genius and madness….
Fist let me say very cool table. I think you should keep it oriented like you planned I understand what the upside down folks are saying but I like it the way you intended.
Second I am also in the camp of a wooden top with a glass inlay.
I’d make it round 12-14″ in diameter 1/4 or 3/8 Tempered glass for safety, with a nice round wooden frame arount it. Mayby even use an exotic vaneer in a cross match configuration to compliment the 4 sliding dovetail center joint.
I agree with most of the posts in terms of your project being top heavy at this point. Although I know you want to highlight the joinery of the center connection, I was thinking you could go with a somewhat square top, flat on top with the bottom sculpted to be about 1 1/2 inch thick at the corners and tapering to about 1/2 inch between the corners. This would help bring your eyes back down and help balance the piece. I also like the idea of shaping it similarly to the recent sketch up on The Modern Woodshop, in conjuction with the before mentioned sculpting.
Loved the podcast…but what’s new. All your podcasts are good and getting better.
Yet another excellent episode! And a terrific table design coming to fruition. I strongly disagree with the suggestion to invert the legs. The lines are exquisite the way it was designed. I’m looking forward to seeing what you are going to do with the top. Of all the suggestions offered I like Germain’s best. I especially like the contrast between the smooth fluid lines of the legs with the rough “natural” look he is suggesting. I’m afraid that anything light and airy like a simple piece of glass will not provide the necessary weight to balance the legs appropriately. With that said, I’m sure that your solution will knock our socks off.
One of the things I like best about the lessons presented with each episode is that even if we’re not planning to build a table similar to the one you’ve been building, the techniques you teach us are skills that we can use on our own “works or art”. The demonstration of how a rasp can be used to soften curves was perfect timing for a project I’ve been working on. I wanted to have two handles blend into a box but wasn’t sure how I would accomplish the transition. The rasp will definitely come in handy for this.
I also liked the tip on using your random orbit sander to prep the surface for the card scraper. Yet another idea that is a perfect solution for a problem. Thanks for sharing this with us!
Marc another good episode I would also like to comment on the top it would be cool to see the glass with a routed edge like a bevel and have the glass size overlap the legs by half and trace it on the legs then route out the legs by the thickness of the glass and inset the glass into the legs. Whatever you do will look cool
Please don’t hide the dovetails… Please It looks good both ways, feet up or down, that brings up a question:
Is it to late to cut the stops off the sliding dovetails?
My idea for the top is to mimic the movement of the legs in the top. Not round, not square. The legs look like cyprus “knees” or roots. I think the edges of the not-so-round shape of the trunk would be awesome. Maybe even get use a circular piece from a walnut trunk… O another question. (OK 3) You suggested that you would have to use ply because of the movement of an all wood top.
Would a sliced piece of the trunk have the same problem?
Would a wood frame around a glass insert have the same problem?
Does Arizona have walnut trees?
BEST Episode yet! I’ve been scarred to go for more artistic shapes… you make it look simple.. just a lot of work,.
How long to shape all 4?
Thank you, Thank you, Thank you.
Hey, I just wanted to introduce myself real quick. I’m 17 right now and I love wood working. I took three years of wood shop class at my highschool and I fell inlove with it. I plan on having a little wood working shop in the near future in my garage and building all my funiture for my house when I’m good and ready. Right now I frame houses but I love building funiture. But anyway back onto the topic, I think you should get a round peice of glass that ends maybe a half inch before the legs of the table. then wrap the edge of the glass with ply and have it overhanging about an inch or so with a beveled trim. I think the glass idea is good because I’d want to show off the dovetails. I’m looking forward to your future videos. Thanks for having such a awsome site.
Matt.
I vote for sticking to the original plan, keep it right side up and show off the dovetails. Some glass ideas/possibilities: 1) Maybe go with an organic kind of a shape, similar to what you might see if you did a slab top in wood. Round and frost the edges; or 2) Set the glass in a wood frame. The top should be rounded in keeping with the overall theme. Also, bevel up the bottom of the frame to lighten and lift the top; or 3) I also like the slate idea someone had. Is there a way to cut a hole in the middle of the slate and insert a small piece of glass?? Hey, this is great thinking of all these crazy solutions when it’s not my time or money!!
Great series, I’ve really enjoyed it.
Dave
No! No! No! I most strongly disagree with those people. It looks fine right-side up. Those stretchers are very heavy, and IMHO, would look weird down by the floor. Not to mention the slight upward thrust of the stretchers would now point down. Heck, then why not slap a bucket in the opening and call it a plant stand! ;-) ;-)
As for the glass top… I dunno. I also prefer wood over glass. It’s not easy to visualize though, I’d like to see some options.
But speaking realistically, Marc. Just WHO is going to admire that dovetail? Don’t let all these woodforums fool you. In the real world, WE are in the minority. WE are the weird ones who crawl under tables to look at joinery. The average person who visits your home wouldn’t care if it was joined with hidden pocket hole screws. They’re just going to admire the form, not the construction techniques.
Hmm, y’know I’m really mostly an easy going guy in person. Despite how this post appears. Interesting piece. I was kind of expecting you to take it to an Oscillating Spindle Sander to work on the curves.
…art
How about having a double ring, one that gets attached on the frame and sits just below the glass, and a second larger outer ring (up higher) with an inset that supports the beveled glass, the two gets connected to each other with four contoured out riggers (dovetailed). This makes for a nice overhang and tall enough for a reading lamp.
Hey Marc
Beautiful piece and very pleasant to watch. If it were my tabe to build I would now go for a top made of a ring routed from high quality ply, maybe 1.25 inch thick, with some scroll work patern routed along the top of the ring and a round plate of very lightly tinted glass, maybe amber or blonde, tempered of course, set into the middle of the ring. I would make the width of the ring about 1/7 of the total diameter for a clasic proportion, and make the scrol work about one third to one half of the width of the ring, set in its middle, using some writing maybe in japanese or even elven tongue (you can find those in
Tolkien fan sites) they both look strange but familiar at the same time to most eyes, and I like that efect. I yould leave the scroll empty for lightness. Or maybe a repeating geometric representation of plantlife like those used by Frank Lloyd Right in his early glass windows.
jumping in late as I finally got caught up with the episode. I don’t think I’ve seen this suggested…how about a wooden donut? a round top with a hole in the center. This would be a lot like the inset glass idea, but without the glass, you could do a nicer edge treatment on the inside and outside faces. You’d also leave the joinery exposed…and I just think it would look cool. You’d have a much wider wood surface than what’s been suggested for the glass to sit in.
First of all, very nice project, extremely inspiring. Excellent website that I’ve just discovered with truly outstanding videos.
Now for the table top idea, may I suggest a complex but “light” design that should complement the legs : instead of doing a recess to get the top glass flat on it (this will actually magnify the end grains of your leg), you could slice a groove in each leg (but one) and insert the glass top in this groove (and of course round a bit the top of the legs).
Nos in order to do that, you need the last leg (with no groove) to be flush to the bottom of your table top. Finally you can bring back the missing piece of the last leg with a nice slideable dovetail.
It may sound complex but the table top will finally look like a diamond in a ring : hold by 4 small hooks.
Again, thanks a lot for sharing your remarkable work and enthusiasm !
just one thing. I noticed that you have the usual problem with black pencil and dark wood.
Me too!
My wife pointed out to me and then got me a white pencil from a store that sells cloth/sewing supplies. It works great on dark wood. makes a fine line like a black pencil so works great.
Hi again,
I thought it would be cool if you had a glass piece that would fit the table both upside down as well as right side up. It looked neat when you had it the other way.
Also, I thought that if you made a round wood top with a round hole in the center to show off the dove-tail center, and put glass in the center; that would be cool too.
Just ideas, I hope you like them.
ML, Tom L
Hi Marc
Im not sure I understand the need to clamp the legs on. From what I could tell the dovetail joints were pretty tight. Im sure you had a better view from where you were at but did you gain any gap closure if any at all when you applied the clamps?
Just curious
Dave
The clamps are just a bit of an insurance policy. I can certainly see why some folks wouldn’t use them. There really weren’t any gaps to speak of but clamping just makes me feel better. :)
Trying to get caught up on the videos (starting from beginning) and just watched this one. I know it’s all history now and I’m anxious to see how this table progresses, but I just wanted to chime in agreement that the legs look much better “upside down.” As you were building the legs, the design just didn’t jive with me. I think maybe it is that the feet curve in too far at the bottom, or maybe it looks top heavy. But as soon as you stood up the legs “upside down”, my thought was “now THAT is nice!” It looked much more balanced and stable and I could better envision a table top for it whereas that was difficult for me before. But regardless, this is a great project, I’m learning a lot, and I can’t wait to see the finished table as I catch up with the videos.