Comments on: 33- On the Edge http://thewoodwhisperer.com/episode-33-on-the-edge/ Education and Entertainment for the modern woodworker. Thu, 09 Feb 2012 16:43:08 +0000 hourly 1 http://wordpress.org/?v= By: thewoodwhisperer http://thewoodwhisperer.com/episode-33-on-the-edge/#comment-140990 thewoodwhisperer Sat, 04 Feb 2012 16:03:07 +0000 http://thewoodwhisperer.com/episode-33-on-the-edge/#comment-140990 I really wouldn't count on it filling gaps. And if it did, it wouldn't look very good. But if the joint is tight you can certainly put a little layer of glue there. Probably won't make a whole lot of structural difference but you can do it. I really wouldn’t count on it filling gaps. And if it did, it wouldn’t look very good. But if the joint is tight you can certainly put a little layer of glue there. Probably won’t make a whole lot of structural difference but you can do it.

]]> By: Jeremy http://thewoodwhisperer.com/episode-33-on-the-edge/#comment-140937 Jeremy Sat, 04 Feb 2012 13:33:08 +0000 http://thewoodwhisperer.com/episode-33-on-the-edge/#comment-140937 Thank you very much for the help Marc. One final question: The edge banding will be glued to the plywood, using biscuits for alignment. Would you also attempt to glue the pieces of edge banding to each other during final assembly? This would be where there are dados/rabbets which would be a long grain to end grain joint (probably not adding much strength, but maybe the glue would help to fill tiny gaps?...) Thanks again for tolerating me while I beat this dead horse :-) Thank you very much for the help Marc. One final question: The edge banding will be glued to the plywood, using biscuits for alignment. Would you also attempt to glue the pieces of edge banding to each other during final assembly? This would be where there are dados/rabbets which would be a long grain to end grain joint (probably not adding much strength, but maybe the glue would help to fill tiny gaps?…)

Thanks again for tolerating me while I beat this dead horse :-)

]]> By: thewoodwhisperer http://thewoodwhisperer.com/episode-33-on-the-edge/#comment-140753 thewoodwhisperer Sat, 04 Feb 2012 03:33:28 +0000 http://thewoodwhisperer.com/episode-33-on-the-edge/#comment-140753 Both options are perfectly viable. It really comes down to what you're comfortable doing. If you aren't sure you'll be able to get good results with option 2, which I think is the better option in terms of appearance, then just go with option 1. But if you are up for the challenge, I think option 2 will give you the most attractive joints. Both options are perfectly viable. It really comes down to what you’re comfortable doing. If you aren’t sure you’ll be able to get good results with option 2, which I think is the better option in terms of appearance, then just go with option 1. But if you are up for the challenge, I think option 2 will give you the most attractive joints.

]]> By: Jeremy http://thewoodwhisperer.com/episode-33-on-the-edge/#comment-140752 Jeremy Sat, 04 Feb 2012 03:30:04 +0000 http://thewoodwhisperer.com/episode-33-on-the-edge/#comment-140752 I see 2 options here (both entail putting the edge banding on before assembly and each have their own trade-offs): 1) Attach thick edge banding to each piece of plywood and flush it to the thickness of the plywood, then cut rabbets and dados through the plywood and edge banding. This will show the joints (dados/rabbets) on the front, but everything (plywood and edge banding) would be cut to exactly the correct size and should go together easily at that point with no gaps and no further processing steps/chances to introduce error. 2) Cut rabbets and dados in each piece of plywood, then attach thick edge banding and flush the edge banding to the thickness of the plywood. By cutting the dados/rabbets first, I can avoid the stopped dados and rabbbets with the same result. The issue with this approach (regardless of whether stopped dados/rabbets are used) is that some of the edge banding will no be the correct length. It will be too long on some of the pieces where the dados/rabbets fit together. Some of the edge banding would need to be trimmed to the correct length (after being attached) where there are dados/rabbets. Although the front would look cleaner here (in theory), I am concerned about trimming it to the exact length needed to avoid gaps. If I trim the pieces a little too short, I end up with a gap, if I leave them a little too long, I won't have gaps, but it will knock the case out of square. Any thoughts/opinions/guidance? How would you handle this? I see 2 options here (both entail putting the edge banding on before assembly and each have their own trade-offs):

1) Attach thick edge banding to each piece of plywood and flush it to the thickness of the plywood, then cut rabbets and dados through the plywood and edge banding. This will show the joints (dados/rabbets) on the front, but everything (plywood and edge banding) would be cut to exactly the correct size and should go together easily at that point with no gaps and no further processing steps/chances to introduce error.

2) Cut rabbets and dados in each piece of plywood, then attach thick edge banding and flush the edge banding to the thickness of the plywood. By cutting the dados/rabbets first, I can avoid the stopped dados and rabbbets with the same result. The issue with this approach (regardless of whether stopped dados/rabbets are used) is that some of the edge banding will no be the correct length. It will be too long on some of the pieces where the dados/rabbets fit together. Some of the edge banding would need to be trimmed to the correct length (after being attached) where there are dados/rabbets. Although the front would look cleaner here (in theory), I am concerned about trimming it to the exact length needed to avoid gaps. If I trim the pieces a little too short, I end up with a gap, if I leave them a little too long, I won’t have gaps, but it will knock the case out of square.

Any thoughts/opinions/guidance? How would you handle this?

]]> By: thewoodwhisperer http://thewoodwhisperer.com/episode-33-on-the-edge/#comment-139963 thewoodwhisperer Thu, 02 Feb 2012 14:16:41 +0000 http://thewoodwhisperer.com/episode-33-on-the-edge/#comment-139963 Well you will still want to use stopped rabbets and dados where visually necessary. But structurally there should be no problems. Well you will still want to use stopped rabbets and dados where visually necessary. But structurally there should be no problems.

]]> By: Jeremy http://thewoodwhisperer.com/episode-33-on-the-edge/#comment-139948 Jeremy Thu, 02 Feb 2012 13:11:02 +0000 http://thewoodwhisperer.com/episode-33-on-the-edge/#comment-139948 This project will not have any overhangs at all. All of the thick solid edge banding will be the the same thickness of the plywood. By putting the edge banding on before assembly, that will mean that the dados and rabbets that get cut will also go through the edge banding. Do you see any issue wtih that? This project will not have any overhangs at all. All of the thick solid edge banding will be the the same thickness of the plywood. By putting the edge banding on before assembly, that will mean that the dados and rabbets that get cut will also go through the edge banding. Do you see any issue wtih that?

]]> By: thewoodwhisperer http://thewoodwhisperer.com/episode-33-on-the-edge/#comment-139389 thewoodwhisperer Wed, 01 Feb 2012 04:01:37 +0000 http://thewoodwhisperer.com/episode-33-on-the-edge/#comment-139389 I would try to attach as much edge banding as possible before the final assembly. Much easier to flush everything up and prepare the surfaces. Now if you have an actual face-frame with substantial overhangs, then it might make more sense to assemble the face frame as a separate unit and then attach it to the carcass. I would try to attach as much edge banding as possible before the final assembly. Much easier to flush everything up and prepare the surfaces. Now if you have an actual face-frame with substantial overhangs, then it might make more sense to assemble the face frame as a separate unit and then attach it to the carcass.

]]> By: Jeremy http://thewoodwhisperer.com/episode-33-on-the-edge/#comment-139377 Jeremy Wed, 01 Feb 2012 03:55:46 +0000 http://thewoodwhisperer.com/episode-33-on-the-edge/#comment-139377 Hi Marc, How about using thick solid edge banding for a cabinet with multiple drawers and cabinet doors (all in one enclosure). This will give several intersecting joints similar to the example you gave with the iron on edge banding. Would you join all the pieces together first to create a single face frame structure (it may be hard to get everything perfect) or attach them one at a time using glue and clamps? Or maybe attach the edge banding to each piece of plywood prior to assembling the cabinet? I am building a buffet table and I am not sure how to handle this aspect. Hopefully this makes sense. Hi Marc,
How about using thick solid edge banding for a cabinet with multiple drawers and cabinet doors (all in one enclosure). This will give several intersecting joints similar to the example you gave with the iron on edge banding. Would you join all the pieces together first to create a single face frame structure (it may be hard to get everything perfect) or attach them one at a time using glue and clamps? Or maybe attach the edge banding to each piece of plywood prior to assembling the cabinet? I am building a buffet table and I am not sure how to handle this aspect. Hopefully this makes sense.

]]> By: thewoodwhisperer http://thewoodwhisperer.com/episode-33-on-the-edge/#comment-129579 thewoodwhisperer Thu, 22 Dec 2011 19:01:38 +0000 http://thewoodwhisperer.com/episode-33-on-the-edge/#comment-129579 Hey Steve. If you make the wood strip thin enough, you should have no problems. Even 1/8" should be able to take that curve. You might want to make a "negative" of the curve to aid in clamping though. I would just make a few strips of edging material and keep thinning them down and testing to see how thin it needs to be. Hey Steve. If you make the wood strip thin enough, you should have no problems. Even 1/8″ should be able to take that curve. You might want to make a “negative” of the curve to aid in clamping though. I would just make a few strips of edging material and keep thinning them down and testing to see how thin it needs to be.

]]> By: Steve eh http://thewoodwhisperer.com/episode-33-on-the-edge/#comment-129573 Steve eh Thu, 22 Dec 2011 18:43:03 +0000 http://thewoodwhisperer.com/episode-33-on-the-edge/#comment-129573 a question about edge banding a curve...i am building a toy box with "arms" on it they are about a 6.5" curve.. i wanted to use plywood for the arms and edge band them to make a nice smooth surface,,,any suggestions. my original design that i built was hardwood...but now i need to build 5-6 more and ply will be more economical http://s1105.photobucket.com/albums/h351/steve_eh/?action=view&current=Random002.jpg a question about edge banding a curve…i am building a toy box with “arms” on it they are about a 6.5″ curve.. i wanted to use plywood for the arms and edge band them to make a nice smooth surface,,,any suggestions.
my original design that i built was hardwood…but now i need to build 5-6 more and ply will be more economical

http://s1105.photobucket.com/a.....dom002.jpg

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