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	<title>Comments on: 32- Pop Goes the Maple</title>
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	<link>http://thewoodwhisperer.com/episode-32-pop-goes-the-maple/</link>
	<description>Education and Entertainment for the modern woodworker.</description>
	<lastBuildDate>Thu, 09 Feb 2012 23:46:21 +0000</lastBuildDate>
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		<title>By: chemmy</title>
		<link>http://thewoodwhisperer.com/episode-32-pop-goes-the-maple/#comment-136404</link>
		<dc:creator>chemmy</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 24 Jan 2012 00:56:36 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://thewoodwhisperer.com/episode-32-pop-goes-the-maple/#comment-136404</guid>
		<description>your correct WW, sorry for not mentioning, with gloves and mask these can be used with safety, there are no analines anymore, the nomenclature has just stuck. azo or even the metallic dyes like trans tint can substitute ok? the PD is a hazard and should always be used with caution!!</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>your correct WW, sorry for not mentioning, with gloves and mask these can be used with safety, there are no analines anymore, the nomenclature has just stuck. azo or even the metallic dyes like trans tint can substitute ok? the PD is a hazard and should always be used with caution!!</p>
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	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: thewoodwhisperer</title>
		<link>http://thewoodwhisperer.com/episode-32-pop-goes-the-maple/#comment-136393</link>
		<dc:creator>thewoodwhisperer</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 24 Jan 2012 00:35:31 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://thewoodwhisperer.com/episode-32-pop-goes-the-maple/#comment-136393</guid>
		<description>Hey Chemmy. Since this is just a blog, there&#039;s really no way to post pictures or upload them directly. You can use our forum at http://woodtalkonline.com or any other photo hosting service to upload your pictures and then link to them from here.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hey Chemmy. Since this is just a blog, there&#8217;s really no way to post pictures or upload them directly. You can use our forum at <a href="http://woodtalkonline.com" rel="nofollow">http://woodtalkonline.com</a> or any other photo hosting service to upload your pictures and then link to them from here.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: chemmy</title>
		<link>http://thewoodwhisperer.com/episode-32-pop-goes-the-maple/#comment-136391</link>
		<dc:creator>chemmy</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 24 Jan 2012 00:24:12 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://thewoodwhisperer.com/episode-32-pop-goes-the-maple/#comment-136391</guid>
		<description>Hi Dana, this was done with the use of graining rollers back at the turn of last century [early part of the 1900&#039;s] They used distemper colors and acetic acid to make the grain colors and patterns that were on a wide roller, rolled the roller in the pigment and then rolled the non-descript woods. 

It was done mainly because it was cheaper then than the oak was, so it became necessary to compete business wise. The same type of affect is done now on car dashes etc. when a very expensive burl is desired on a car, without the cost. 

i have pics but new here, so i hope WW will tell me how to post them when he reads this ok?</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi Dana, this was done with the use of graining rollers back at the turn of last century [early part of the 1900's] They used distemper colors and acetic acid to make the grain colors and patterns that were on a wide roller, rolled the roller in the pigment and then rolled the non-descript woods. </p>
<p>It was done mainly because it was cheaper then than the oak was, so it became necessary to compete business wise. The same type of affect is done now on car dashes etc. when a very expensive burl is desired on a car, without the cost. </p>
<p>i have pics but new here, so i hope WW will tell me how to post them when he reads this ok?</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: thewoodwhisperer</title>
		<link>http://thewoodwhisperer.com/episode-32-pop-goes-the-maple/#comment-136389</link>
		<dc:creator>thewoodwhisperer</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 24 Jan 2012 00:17:12 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://thewoodwhisperer.com/episode-32-pop-goes-the-maple/#comment-136389</guid>
		<description>For anyone looking to try a stain like this, please do your research on the chemicals before you use them. Some are not only toxic but carcinogenic. Many times, a particular color can be reached (or a close variation) with much less dangerous ingredients.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>For anyone looking to try a stain like this, please do your research on the chemicals before you use them. Some are not only toxic but carcinogenic. Many times, a particular color can be reached (or a close variation) with much less dangerous ingredients.</p>
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	<item>
		<title>By: chemmy</title>
		<link>http://thewoodwhisperer.com/episode-32-pop-goes-the-maple/#comment-136383</link>
		<dc:creator>chemmy</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 24 Jan 2012 00:00:05 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://thewoodwhisperer.com/episode-32-pop-goes-the-maple/#comment-136383</guid>
		<description>Used on Mahogany, Birch, Maple, Cypress.
 FORMULA:
1 ¼ ounces potassium dichromate
¼ oz. Nigrosine black dye, dry, water soluble,
1/24 oz. mahogany red, aniline, dry, water soluble,
1/2 gallon hot distilled water for stain on maple, 1 gal. if real mahogany..</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Used on Mahogany, Birch, Maple, Cypress.<br />
 FORMULA:<br />
1 ¼ ounces potassium dichromate<br />
¼ oz. Nigrosine black dye, dry, water soluble,<br />
1/24 oz. mahogany red, aniline, dry, water soluble,<br />
1/2 gallon hot distilled water for stain on maple, 1 gal. if real mahogany..</p>
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	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: chemmy</title>
		<link>http://thewoodwhisperer.com/episode-32-pop-goes-the-maple/#comment-136359</link>
		<dc:creator>chemmy</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 23 Jan 2012 23:04:47 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://thewoodwhisperer.com/episode-32-pop-goes-the-maple/#comment-136359</guid>
		<description>If you feel you must have the magic oil to use, then may i suggest this schedule.

Apply your dye to the wood first, let dry
then apply your oil for best penetration
wipe all the excess off and let dry 24 hours
then apply your shellac at a 1 lb. cut
let dry/sand 320/lightly but smooth
then come back with your poly finish or varnish
skip any tri-mixes of oil/varnish/thinner, and just use a straight poly or varnish thinned just a little if necessary for flow and leveling if brushing. If not you can spray it straight out of the can. or with a spray can.

Make sure your using sealcoat or freshly made dewaxed flakes. sealcoat for poly / dewaxed flakes for oil varnish.

Sincerely,

Chemmy</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>If you feel you must have the magic oil to use, then may i suggest this schedule.</p>
<p>Apply your dye to the wood first, let dry<br />
then apply your oil for best penetration<br />
wipe all the excess off and let dry 24 hours<br />
then apply your shellac at a 1 lb. cut<br />
let dry/sand 320/lightly but smooth<br />
then come back with your poly finish or varnish<br />
skip any tri-mixes of oil/varnish/thinner, and just use a straight poly or varnish thinned just a little if necessary for flow and leveling if brushing. If not you can spray it straight out of the can. or with a spray can.</p>
<p>Make sure your using sealcoat or freshly made dewaxed flakes. sealcoat for poly / dewaxed flakes for oil varnish.</p>
<p>Sincerely,</p>
<p>Chemmy</p>
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	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: chemmy</title>
		<link>http://thewoodwhisperer.com/episode-32-pop-goes-the-maple/#comment-136345</link>
		<dc:creator>chemmy</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 23 Jan 2012 21:52:52 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://thewoodwhisperer.com/episode-32-pop-goes-the-maple/#comment-136345</guid>
		<description>gentlemen, on the use of dyes to bring out the figure in woods, it is best to use a weak solution of ferrous sulfate type II for this. In weak solution on figured maple, you will see that it affects those portions where the interlocking grains are,[ think birdseye/ quilt / flame / curly/ burl / etc.. 

Once you have applied and let dry for a day, then if dyes are used, it will further enhance the affect

It&#039;s not that it can&#039;t be done as suggested here, it just gives more of the affect. Again, if you want to even make it more pronounced, you can use the sanding method also. The FS treatment has been around along time, nothing new, just another arrow to have in your finishing quiver when needed. 

As to the trans-tint dyes, those are a common dye that has been around for a couple decades or so. Just new packaging /promoting/etc.. if you like you can buy them direct but only at gallon pricing. the least costly is back at around $70.00 per 8lbs. [basically a gallon.] the most expensive is the blue, around $165.00, still sound way to expensive?

Look at it this way - approx. 128 oz. per gallon -at 70.00 per gallon divided by 128 = $ 0.58 per oz. for the blue @ 165 per gal., divided by 128 oz. = $1.28 per ounce. the others will run in between.    

most brown colors can be made with no more than the three primaries, red,blue,yellow.  or the alternative green and red. ok?

these are not another type of dye, they are the &quot;same&quot; dye. a chrome or other metal complex dye in liquid form. Why continue to pay the high prices for the small bottles? everyone here if they don&#039;t need gallons can get together in groups of 4 or more and split the gallons into quarts/pints etc. 

I personally have been using them since 1981 and they are available from www.dyes.com Keystone aniline. Cut out the middleman and keep your saving to buy other necessities ok?</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>gentlemen, on the use of dyes to bring out the figure in woods, it is best to use a weak solution of ferrous sulfate type II for this. In weak solution on figured maple, you will see that it affects those portions where the interlocking grains are,[ think birdseye/ quilt / flame / curly/ burl / etc.. </p>
<p>Once you have applied and let dry for a day, then if dyes are used, it will further enhance the affect</p>
<p>It's not that it can't be done as suggested here, it just gives more of the affect. Again, if you want to even make it more pronounced, you can use the sanding method also. The FS treatment has been around along time, nothing new, just another arrow to have in your finishing quiver when needed. </p>
<p>As to the trans-tint dyes, those are a common dye that has been around for a couple decades or so. Just new packaging /promoting/etc.. if you like you can buy them direct but only at gallon pricing. the least costly is back at around $70.00 per 8lbs. [basically a gallon.] the most expensive is the blue, around $165.00, still sound way to expensive?</p>
<p>Look at it this way &#8211; approx. 128 oz. per gallon -at 70.00 per gallon divided by 128 = $ 0.58 per oz. for the blue @ 165 per gal., divided by 128 oz. = $1.28 per ounce. the others will run in between.    </p>
<p>most brown colors can be made with no more than the three primaries, red,blue,yellow.  or the alternative green and red. ok?</p>
<p>these are not another type of dye, they are the &#8220;same&#8221; dye. a chrome or other metal complex dye in liquid form. Why continue to pay the high prices for the small bottles? everyone here if they don&#8217;t need gallons can get together in groups of 4 or more and split the gallons into quarts/pints etc. </p>
<p>I personally have been using them since 1981 and they are available from <a href="http://www.dyes.com" rel="nofollow">http://www.dyes.com</a> Keystone aniline. Cut out the middleman and keep your saving to buy other necessities ok?</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: thewoodwhisperer</title>
		<link>http://thewoodwhisperer.com/episode-32-pop-goes-the-maple/#comment-124534</link>
		<dc:creator>thewoodwhisperer</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 11 Nov 2011 16:29:57 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://thewoodwhisperer.com/episode-32-pop-goes-the-maple/#comment-124534</guid>
		<description>Oh yes. Transtint is great!</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Oh yes. Transtint is great!</p>
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	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: Dave KLein</title>
		<link>http://thewoodwhisperer.com/episode-32-pop-goes-the-maple/#comment-124533</link>
		<dc:creator>Dave KLein</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 11 Nov 2011 16:13:26 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://thewoodwhisperer.com/episode-32-pop-goes-the-maple/#comment-124533</guid>
		<description>I use transtint with denatured alchohol....would i get the same result?
Thank you</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I use transtint with denatured alchohol&#8230;.would i get the same result?<br />
Thank you</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: thewoodwhisperer</title>
		<link>http://thewoodwhisperer.com/episode-32-pop-goes-the-maple/#comment-108497</link>
		<dc:creator>thewoodwhisperer</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 29 Aug 2011 00:38:58 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://thewoodwhisperer.com/episode-32-pop-goes-the-maple/#comment-108497</guid>
		<description>Hey Aldi. I can&#039;t really say anything about toxicity with absolute certainty for liability reasons. But I can say that it is my belief that all film finishes are non-toxic when cured.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hey Aldi. I can&#8217;t really say anything about toxicity with absolute certainty for liability reasons. But I can say that it is my belief that all film finishes are non-toxic when cured.</p>
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