Comments on: 3- Refinishing (Pt. 5) http://thewoodwhisperer.com/episode-3-refinishing-part-5/ Education and Entertainment for the modern woodworker. Thu, 09 Feb 2012 23:46:21 +0000 hourly 1 http://wordpress.org/?v= By: thewoodwhisperer http://thewoodwhisperer.com/episode-3-refinishing-part-5/#comment-104089 thewoodwhisperer Tue, 12 Jul 2011 03:42:52 +0000 http://nrswebconsulting.com/thewoodwhisperer/?p=73#comment-104089 I never worked with CrystaLac before so I can't really compare it. But I would recommend reading all the reviews here since many folks have discussed their application method on Rockler's site: http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=17353&filter=crystalac If you do go with Timbermate, you can either use dye or just buy a color that already matches what you're looking for. I never worked with CrystaLac before so I can’t really compare it. But I would recommend reading all the reviews here since many folks have discussed their application method on Rockler’s site: http://www.rockler.com/product.....=crystalac

If you do go with Timbermate, you can either use dye or just buy a color that already matches what you’re looking for.

]]> By: Jesse http://thewoodwhisperer.com/episode-3-refinishing-part-5/#comment-104087 Jesse Tue, 12 Jul 2011 03:27:15 +0000 http://nrswebconsulting.com/thewoodwhisperer/?p=73#comment-104087 Thanks. But will the blonde color of Timbermate stick out when I finish the project? Or is this something where I may want to tint the Timbermate with a little dye? I read another thread about a product called Crystalac and it says it dries clear (So I would assume no dye would be necessary). Your thoughts? Thanks. But will the blonde color of Timbermate stick out when I finish the project? Or is this something where I may want to tint the Timbermate with a little dye? I read another thread about a product called Crystalac and it says it dries clear (So I would assume no dye would be necessary). Your thoughts?

]]> By: thewoodwhisperer http://thewoodwhisperer.com/episode-3-refinishing-part-5/#comment-104085 thewoodwhisperer Tue, 12 Jul 2011 01:40:24 +0000 http://nrswebconsulting.com/thewoodwhisperer/?p=73#comment-104085 If the end grain is part of the top, I would definitely try to fill it. How much it takes up will depend on the species of wood. But it can't hurt to do it. And if you do this, the surface should be well sanded already so you should only need to do some light surface sanding after the filler/finish dries. Also, be sure to practice this on scrap to make sure this is the method you want to use. Its not quite as efficient as using an actual commercial filler like Timbermate. If the end grain is part of the top, I would definitely try to fill it. How much it takes up will depend on the species of wood. But it can’t hurt to do it. And if you do this, the surface should be well sanded already so you should only need to do some light surface sanding after the filler/finish dries. Also, be sure to practice this on scrap to make sure this is the method you want to use. Its not quite as efficient as using an actual commercial filler like Timbermate.

]]> By: Jesse http://thewoodwhisperer.com/episode-3-refinishing-part-5/#comment-104060 Jesse Mon, 11 Jul 2011 16:45:21 +0000 http://nrswebconsulting.com/thewoodwhisperer/?p=73#comment-104060 Hey Marc, I'm really digging your web site and I'm restraining myself from flooding the blog with questions, but I do have a couple regarding this pore-filling. What about the end grain? Do you have to fill that as well? If you're using something like the Danish oil method, does it soak in further thus requiring more sanding? I'm looking at doing a very small project made from Red Oak and I want it to have a high gloss finish but the end grain will be exposed. Any suggestions? Jesse Hey Marc,

I’m really digging your web site and I’m restraining myself from flooding the blog with questions, but I do have a couple regarding this pore-filling. What about the end grain? Do you have to fill that as well? If you’re using something like the Danish oil method, does it soak in further thus requiring more sanding? I’m looking at doing a very small project made from Red Oak and I want it to have a high gloss finish but the end grain will be exposed. Any suggestions?

Jesse

]]> By: Cliff Bramlett http://thewoodwhisperer.com/episode-3-refinishing-part-5/#comment-59825 Cliff Bramlett Sun, 08 Aug 2010 19:01:46 +0000 http://nrswebconsulting.com/thewoodwhisperer/?p=73#comment-59825 Hey Marc, glad I started watching your series. Every episode has several tips that I expect to use soon, and you make them easy to understand with the voiceover instruction and why's in addition to the how to's. Hey Marc, glad I started watching your series. Every episode has several tips that I expect to use soon, and you make them easy to understand with the voiceover instruction and why’s in addition to the how to’s.

]]> By: Jeff Shafer http://thewoodwhisperer.com/episode-3-refinishing-part-5/#comment-57238 Jeff Shafer Sat, 08 May 2010 16:35:51 +0000 http://nrswebconsulting.com/thewoodwhisperer/?p=73#comment-57238 Marc, Thanks for more great information. Not sure if you remember me, I'm the guy who turns fly rod reel seat inserts. I've been continuing to use an oil-modified urethane marketed to gunstock finishers and continue to modify my process. The finishes I'm getting are really nice, as I now apply more liberally, then use lint free paper to remove all but a film. Lots of applications required. But after watching this video I raced out to the garage and turned a couple of inserts out of a couple of different walnut species. Then I used Danish oil and sanded with 400 grit and the lathe set at ~500 rpm to fill the pores. These will sit until tomorrow when I'll assess the situation and maybe do another wet sanding with Danish. I'm looking forward to finishing over pore filled walnut. Thanks again for all the help you've provided through your site. Jeff Shafer Marc,
Thanks for more great information. Not sure if you remember me, I’m the guy who turns fly rod reel seat inserts. I’ve been continuing to use an oil-modified urethane marketed to gunstock finishers and continue to modify my process. The finishes I’m getting are really nice, as I now apply more liberally, then use lint free paper to remove all but a film. Lots of applications required. But after watching this video I raced out to the garage and turned a couple of inserts out of a couple of different walnut species. Then I used Danish oil and sanded with 400 grit and the lathe set at ~500 rpm to fill the pores. These will sit until tomorrow when I’ll assess the situation and maybe do another wet sanding with Danish. I’m looking forward to finishing over pore filled walnut. Thanks again for all the help you’ve provided through your site.

Jeff Shafer

]]> By: thewoodwhisperer http://thewoodwhisperer.com/episode-3-refinishing-part-5/#comment-56148 thewoodwhisperer Tue, 13 Apr 2010 17:04:57 +0000 http://nrswebconsulting.com/thewoodwhisperer/?p=73#comment-56148 great to have you here. I am sure I'll see ya around! Good luck with that project. great to have you here. I am sure I’ll see ya around! Good luck with that project.

]]> By: Chuck Douglas http://thewoodwhisperer.com/episode-3-refinishing-part-5/#comment-56147 Chuck Douglas Tue, 13 Apr 2010 17:03:28 +0000 http://nrswebconsulting.com/thewoodwhisperer/?p=73#comment-56147 Hi Marc, Was directed to your site from another woodworking site I frequent... Episode 3 / Refinishing is exactly what I needed. I have a project that is going to require a lot of careful sanding and prepping and this is just the how-to I needed to get started. I'm going to be a regular visitor and I am a novice woodworker at the present, but want to hone my skills. Thanks, again. Hi Marc,

Was directed to your site from another woodworking site I frequent… Episode 3 / Refinishing is exactly what I needed. I have a project that is going to require a lot of careful sanding and prepping and this is just the how-to I needed to get started. I’m going to be a regular visitor and I am a novice woodworker at the present, but want to hone my skills.

Thanks, again.

]]> By: thewoodwhisperer http://thewoodwhisperer.com/episode-3-refinishing-part-5/#comment-45294 thewoodwhisperer Fri, 31 Jul 2009 17:20:53 +0000 http://nrswebconsulting.com/thewoodwhisperer/?p=73#comment-45294 Hey William. In general, Danish Oil is nothing more than an oil/varnish blend. I use it for pore-filling because it doesn't gum up right away like a pure varnish would. I know many folks who use Danish oil on table tops with great success. But if it were me, I would just go with straight varnish for a table top. Its nice to have the extra durability. But for something like an occasional table or an end table, an oil/varnish blend will give you decent protection and exceptional beauty. For a countertop? I wouldn't use it. I would stick with table top varnish or polyurethane. Hey William. In general, Danish Oil is nothing more than an oil/varnish blend. I use it for pore-filling because it doesn’t gum up right away like a pure varnish would.

I know many folks who use Danish oil on table tops with great success. But if it were me, I would just go with straight varnish for a table top. Its nice to have the extra durability. But for something like an occasional table or an end table, an oil/varnish blend will give you decent protection and exceptional beauty.

For a countertop? I wouldn’t use it. I would stick with table top varnish or polyurethane.

]]> By: william http://thewoodwhisperer.com/episode-3-refinishing-part-5/#comment-45292 william Fri, 31 Jul 2009 16:40:37 +0000 http://nrswebconsulting.com/thewoodwhisperer/?p=73#comment-45292 hey Mark noticed you were using danish oil and it looked pretty nice. im not too familiar with that type of oil. what advantages are there and would you be able to use it on countertops as a finish? thanks and appreciate the help. hey Mark noticed you were using danish oil and it looked pretty nice. im not too familiar with that type of oil. what advantages are there and would you be able to use it on countertops as a finish?
thanks and appreciate the help.

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