Episode 11- Arts & Crafts Table (Part 4)

March 8, 2007 | Filed Under Blog, Projects, Video 

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In the final part of this episode, I show you how to make a curved template for the bottom rails. I also discuss joinery, finishing, and glue ups. I also show you what I find to be the easiest way to attach a solid table top to a base. This episode moves fast so hang on to your hats!

Comments

18 Responses to “Episode 11- Arts & Crafts Table (Part 4)”

  1. Stephane Daigle on March 9th, 2007 6:39 am

    Hi Marc,
    I just wanted to point out a safety hazard I noticed on this video. While you were working on the router, a lace or string from you shirt was dangling quite close to the router bit as it was spinning.

    Great site! I am learning a lot and it’s very entertaining.

    Stephane
    Bathurst, NB, Canada

  2. Dan on March 9th, 2007 11:45 am

    I love the table, but is it strong enough without a lower stretcher between the legs?

  3. Warren White on March 9th, 2007 12:42 pm

    Marc,
    I am really enjoying your videos! Each time I learn new things. They have become a very important part of my woodworking education.

    I notice from this issue and your shop tour that you have a Jet 14″ band saw. I just purchased mine at our local Woodcraft. I bought the 6″ riser and would like your opinions on an aftermarket blade. I will probably just purchase one or two, so what do you recommend for general purpose use? If I do any resawing, what do you recommend for that?

    Thanks again for a great resource!

    Warren

  4. thewoodwhisperer on March 9th, 2007 1:58 pm

    Hey Dan. I do think the table would be strong enough without the bottom stretchers. It would be more like a dining room table that way. I see no major problems building it that way.

    Warren:
    For most of my work, I use Timberwolf blades:
    http://astore.amazon.com/thewo.....0&y=0

    Another brand that gets really great reviews is Lennox. http://www.lenoxsaw.com/

    Either one will give you a premium cut whether for general use or veneer slicing.

    Marc

  5. nick on March 9th, 2007 2:55 pm

    when pre-finishing a peice, do you just apply the first coat or totally finish the piece, then glue up?

  6. thewoodwhisperer on March 9th, 2007 3:24 pm

    I totally finish the piece. Sometimes after the glueup you might need to do a little touch up here and there but thats no big deal. This type of strategy doesnt work for every piece, but it can certainly save you alot of headaches when the final piece has lots of hard to reach places.

    marc

  7. Warren White on March 9th, 2007 4:49 pm

    Thanks for the recommendation on Timberwolf blades. Can you make specific recommendations on which one (or two)? There are a bazillion choices there ;)

    Warren

  8. nick on March 9th, 2007 4:59 pm

    i should have pre-finished this night table i made…glue squeeze out is no one’s friend.

  9. thewoodwhisperer on March 9th, 2007 6:37 pm

    That is a lot of blades on that page. :)

    If you are looking to slice veneers, go for the 1/2″ 6 TPI. Some would recommend doing for 3/4″, but I prefer the 1/2″ since its more versatile. For general resawing, you can go with less TPI, something like 3 would be good. But I usually get 6 TPI and keep that in the saw. Changing blades is no fun. Kinda like cleaning squeezout. :)

  10. Almerino on March 12th, 2007 2:30 am

    I am a woodworker myself but I need your opinoin how can we bend wood for an item like the console table which has a curve apron rail.

  11. thewoodwhisperer on March 12th, 2007 7:55 am

    Hey Almerino. I will email some ideas.

  12. Skee on March 15th, 2007 10:55 am

    Wood Whisperer,

    I really enjoyed the episode, all 4 parts. Designing, milling, finishing, construction. It is all there. Excellent.

    I did notice something of interest - you had a blanket under the piece as you did the glue up / assembly process. I figure this is to protect both the piece and the workbench surface. What a great idea! I had never seen this before, but it makes complete sense and makes me say “Ah, I should have done that years ago.” And I liked the south western theme of the blanket - great sense of place in your shop.

    Winona, MN

  13. scott b on March 16th, 2007 8:17 am

    Been meaning to ask, in the intro segment to the show, you have a small bench (or possibly footstoof)… Have you posted that elsewhere, or is there any info you’d like to share on its construction? (here or over at Lumberjocks?) It’s a nice looking piece (one I’d like to try, and with all the veneered pieces leading up to it, it’s one I feel comfortable trying!

    Thanks!

  14. thewoodwhisperer on March 16th, 2007 11:21 am

    Hey Scott. Thats a little child’s sitting bench (or foot stool) that I made as a prototype. The construction is primarily mortise and tenon but I dont really have much info on the details. It was a quick one-off type thing. I can email you as much detail as I remember, but I dont really have any pics or anything showing the process.

    Marc

  15. Ron Jones on April 22nd, 2007 2:03 pm

    Marc, great site. I enjoyed the 4 segments for the arts and craft table. Could you repeat the stages / coats of finish for the table. ie. Minwax stain and then . . .

    Thanks in advance

    Ron

  16. thewoodwhisperer on April 23rd, 2007 7:24 am

    Sure Ron. The table was hit with the Minwax cherry stain first, followed by a coat of pre-catalyzed sealer (Sherwin Williams). Then a light 320 grit sanding. THen about 4 coats of Sherwin Williams Precatalyzed Lacquer.

  17. Gui on August 23rd, 2007 6:07 pm

    Question from a novice woodworker - how do you stain the table top? Do you first stain one side, let it dry, then the other side? Or is there a technique to do top/bottom at the same time? Not sure where I would leave the table top resting without damaging the finish….

  18. thewoodwhisperer on August 23rd, 2007 8:14 pm

    Hi Gui. I usually stain one side at a time. There is no easy way to stain both sides of a table top of that size.

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