11- Arts & Crafts Table (Pt. 3)

March 1, 2007 by thewoodwhisperer
Filed under: All Videos, Projects 

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In this episode, I glue up, scrape, and sand the table top. I begin milling the aprons and discussing our joinery options. I also give you a good view of the Festool Domino in action.

Arts & Crafts Table (Pt. 1)
Arts & Crafts Table (Pt. 2)
Arts & Crafts Table (Pt. 3)
Arts & Crafts Table (Pt. 4)


Comments

16 Responses to “11- Arts & Crafts Table (Pt. 3)”
  1. Andrew says:

    Marc,

    I’ve seen it in almost all of your videos, so I’ve got to ask. What type of small, 6″ adjustable square are you using? I’ve never considered using one that size, but after seeing in in action, well, I don’t know what I’ve been thinking. Is it available in your store? Looking forward to the next installment,

    Andrew

  2. Hey Andrew. The one I use is a little 4″ Double Square sold by Lee Valley. It is by far my most frequently used measuring and marking device. Here is the link:

    http://www.leevalley.com/wood/.....at=1,42936

    Have fun.

    Marc

  3. Mark Carlson says:

    Hi Marc,

    I was curious why you didn’t use the domino to join the boards for the table top versus the biscuit joiner? I look forward to your weekly videos. Thanks.

    ~mark

  4. Hey mark. I certainly could have used the Domino to align my boards. To be honest, the Domino will most likely replace my biscuit joiner in almost all tasks. But the truth is I have a drawer that is full of biscuits. My family knows I always need biscuits so guess what I find in my Christmas stocking every year? Yep. More biscuits. So it was really a practicality issue.

    Marc

  5. Ron says:

    Marc,
    I was curious how much time you think you are saving, per joint, with the Domino VS traditional methods?

    Thanks,
    Ron

  6. Hey Ron. Its going to be tough to give an accurate answer. You save a bunch of time in setup. Obviously traditional joints require a good amount of setup time. With the Domino you are up and running in minutes.
    But remember, once you get set up for the traditional joinery, you can blast through all your parts. But if you have multiple sized parts with different sized tenons, the setup process needs to be repeated. So how much time you save is really dependant on the project. Minimally, it will save you your standard setup time and fine tuning time for a standard mortise and a standard tenon. For some people, thats 20 minutes. For others, thats a few hours.
    A good way to look at it is to think of the Domino as something you are probably already familiar with: a biscuit joiner. So how much time would you save if you could use a biscuit joint instead of a mortise and tenon? That should give you a good idea.

    Marc

  7. Terry says:

    Hey Mark,
    Great pod cast…..its always a joy watch. Now we all want you to play like your Oprah and gives all a Festool Domino for watching..:)
    Terry

  8. Maybe one day in the future I too will be able to buy my fans! Dare to dream. :)

  9. Nigel Utting says:

    Hi Marc, I have just watched your 3 videos on the Arts & Crafts table with great pleasure. You have all the attributes of a great teacher: clear speech, a sound grasp of your subject and enthusiasm. I hope that you and the video series prosper. I’ll be back to watch more. Nigel (in the UK).

  10. Fred says:

    Hi Marc –

    I really liked the part when after edge gluing and clamping the table top you just turned it on edge and used a scraper to remove the squeeze out.

    I tried that last weekend on the stock I glued up for the blanket chest I am making. It works great.

    The only thing I did not like was cleaning the glue off of my scraper. I think the next time I will use one of those phony credit cards I seem to get in the mail to scrape off the squeeze out.

  11. justin says:

    How do you not get a bowed glue up on big pieces like the top? i know clamping from bottom and top helps but not for me all that much.

    • thewoodwhisperer says:

      Hey Justin. Really its all about good stable kiln dried stock, good milling practices, and proper clamping. And even with that, some boards will want to warp on you eventually. The nature of the beast really. But if you do all the above, you should be fine in most cases.

  12. Heath says:

    I’m getting caught up on all your videos and I’m really loving them and learning a lot from them! I thought I might offer a suggestion, though. The mortise on the end of that 64″ apron could easily be cut with a Shopsmith in horizontal boring mode with the mortise attachment. There wouldn’t even need to be any setup change between the short and long aprons.

  13. Dave Brewer says:

    Hi Marc

    Really its all about good stable kiln dried stock, good milling practices, and proper clamping.

    Good advice, all of which I try to implement on all of my glue-ups. One question though. I didn’t notice if you mentioned or showed a view of the end grain in the glue-up of the tabletop, alternating the growth patterns i.e. smiley face, frown, smiley face, frown, etc. I have heard different schools of thought on this. My feeling is that if you pay attention to the basics of stable stock, good milling practices, and proper clamping this really isnt an issue. I like to concentrate more on the best sides of the boards to show, regardless of the grain patterns. Obviously I will alternate what I can, but it’s tough to flip that really popping grain to the underside just to maintain the alternate grain theory. With such long pieces do you focus more on alternating or display?….Whats you thought on this?

    As always…..great show.

    Dave

    • thewoodwhisperer says:

      Hey Dave. My thoughts are right in line with yours. I will not sacrifice face grain for the sake of alternating end grain. Like you said, using properly-milled, stable, kiln-dried stock usually prevents most issues. So alternate end-grain when you can, but don’t let it dictate the appearance of the piece.

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