In this episode, I select and prepare the stock for the table legs and table top. I also review strategies for cutting thick stock, stabilizing large knots, and milling extra long boards.
Arts & Crafts Table (Pt. 1)
Arts & Crafts Table (Pt. 2)
Arts & Crafts Table (Pt. 3)
Arts & Crafts Table (Pt. 4)
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14 Responses to “11- Arts & Crafts Table (Pt. 2)”
First time to your site. I am looking forward to reading and watching what you have to offer
EXCELLENT!!!!!!!!!!!
Linked from Fine Woodworking e-letter to catch the episode.
Again Marc….nicely done!!!
Neil
thanks for keeping it real by not editing out the epoxy part!
Another great episode, I look forward to watching the table come together. Any idea how many episodes you are planning for this project?
Thanks for the kind words guys. Im glad you are enjoying the series.
I would say at least two more episodes. I dont really want it to go longer than 4 total. So we might have a few longer than usual episodes.
Marc
Thank you, I like it very much. Marc very sympatic and jhis explanations are very clear… et clever!
I dont exactly like the rap with explanation, but I am an old man, so, stay do what you think is good and funny!
(My english is not good, I am French and I dont have enough opportunety to practice…. )
Normand
I laughed out loud at that whole glue up sequence… loved it! Keep up the great work, can’t wait for episode 3.
My wife came into the room to make sure i was really watching a woodworking show when she heard the glue up part. Almost got me in trouble but well worth it.
Hi Marc,
Excellent tutorial again.
I have a question though. At the very end, you joint the board edge to 90 degrees, then run the board through the table saw for the other edge. Why not just run both through the saw, if the saw blade is set to 90 degrees, or joint both edges on the jointer?
Also, what epoxy do you use?
Johan
Hey Johan. Although a table saw will cut a nice 90 degree edge, it will only cut the edge into a nice straight line if the edge against the fence is nice and straight. So we must take a trip to the jointer first. Now once you have a straight edge, you might be tempted to simply run your second rough edge over the jointer as well. This would indeed produce a straight 90 degree edge. But what it doesn’t do is produce an edge that is perfectly parallel to the first. You can and most likely will produce a wedge-shaped board that is wider on one end than it is on the other. So by going to the table saw and trimming our second edge, we are ensured a perfectly parallel edge. Now you could stop right there and go directly to the glueup, but I prefer to run the tablesawn edge over the jointer one time to ensure a pefectly accurate joint.
This may seem a bit picky, but when you glue up your boards and you cant even see the glue line, you will be thankful for the extra effort you put into the preparation.
Hope that explains everything.
Marc
Thanks for the explanation, Marc. I don’t know why I didn’t realize it. It’s the same as jointing then planing for thickness, instead of just jointing down to size. (I don’t have a planer, so after watching your milling podcast, I built a sled for my router which works great.
You have an excellent site, thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Love your site! I started watching the video pod casts two days ago and just got caught up. Now I have to wait for the next one :-( You have a great sense of humor. “Lets get ready tooooooooo….”
It seems to me that the domino by Festool is a mobile multi-router :-)
Keep them rolling!
Hey Marc, ususlly you don’t wear gloves much. Why in this one, and what kind were those? I use Ansell HyFlex 11-801s and those had a similar look to them.
Thanks man!
That was a long time ago, so I’m guessing my hands were cold. :) I don’t know the make or brand of the gloves but they were given to me by a friend. Soft flexible fabric on the back and thin grippy material on the front. Generally speaking, I don’t feel comfortable wearing gloves in the shop. But I guess my hands were cold enough that day I decided to try them.
very nice