In this episode, I review some basic methods for creating tenons, including using a dado blade and a tenoning jig. I also demonstrate the use of the new Festool Domino as a fast and easy way to create loose/floating tenons. For more information on the domino, visit Festool or download this handy brochure.
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23 Responses to “10- Tenons Anyone? (Pt. 2)”
Marc,
Great video as usual! One thing I was curious to know was how would you treat the shoulder cut as it wood relate to a round surface? Maybe a 6″ dia?
Thanks,
Ron
Love your podcasts! Just watched the second part of Tennons and learned a LOT! Thanks man, you really rock. I also checked out the link to the Festool Domino. Like most of the Festool line, Great Tools, I’d love to have them, but talk about sticker shock! My GAWD! I could buy a brand new Jointer for that price. I think for the time being, I’ll stick to old fashioned M&T. I already have the Tennoning jig for my TS.
Again, great podcasts! Keep up the great work.
i was taught that unless there is an off cut, there isnt really a kickback danger registering against the fence…but great video!
So how do you make those tenons on a long board? Huh, Huh, Huh…..? Greg
Marc, awesome video! Looking forward to the Mission style desk. Sounds like a great project. The Festool Domino looks like a very cool tool. Any advice on how to convice those in the kitchen to allow those in the garage to buy this tool? Another very nice option for mortise & tenon joints is the Leigh FMT (Frame Mortise & Tenon) Jig. Might be worth looking at some time – I know how much you like tools. Check it out at http://www.leighjigs.com/fmt.php
Thanks again for the great video and website!
Hey Greg,
For long boards, I would either clamp the piece to my mitre sled and use the dado blade or make a shop-made jig and use my hand held router. Either one of those should get the job done.
If you have high ceilings you can even use the tenoning jig.
Thanks for watching!! Marc
another great podcast!
Are there several sized “dominoes” like there are several sized biscuits?
To answer Paul yes there are different sized dominos. The available sizes can be seen right here http://www.mcfeelys.com/festoo.....ubcat=25.2 .
Besides the FMT which looks like an awesome tool to M&T joints of all sizes I wanted to mention the WoodRat which is something of a routing system. It handles M&T joints of all sizes AND does dovetails. Just another option for people to investigate if you are considering the Domino.
Great website and podcasts Marc. I like the humor and hominess of the episodes. For those prices (Domino) I think I’ll stick with my plunge router and a few MDF jigs. Actually all of the M/T machines are way overpriced.
my $.02
What? A fellow spongebob fan who likes woodworking and studied as a biologists, too scary. (note listed in order of importance :D).
FWIW, for a really long board, I would resort to the old tried and true mortise chisel and mallet >:-D.
Very nice episode… great information on different options. Very nice mortising tool by Festool… with I made enough mortises to pick one up!
THANKS!!!
this link seems to be broke, can’t view part 2 of tenons anyone?
http://thewoodwhisperer.com/ep.....nyone-pt2/
Which of the three links are you trying to view daniel. I just tried them and they all work for me.
Marc,
Good video.
Just got a domino – only had a couple minutes to play with it so far but i found the tenons so tight they were difficult to remove!
Beadlock is another option – I have had pretty good luck with the their floating tenon system. It’s pretty cheap and works well.
IZ
Marc,
I’ve just watched a couple of your vidoes – very helpful. I’ve just started wood working by taking a couple night classes at a community college. I’ve decided to make a small bench as my first real project after completing the obligatory toolbox project. It will be about 3′ long by 14″ wide and 18″ high. The seat is about 3/4″ thick. I was planning to make the legs 2″ square. My question is how would you recommend joining the legs to seat? Since the seat is only 3/4″ thick, would a mortise and tenon type joint provide enough stability/strength? Ideally, i would prefer a simple look without aprons/skirts. For added strength (I hope), I do plan to put stretchers between the legs near the bottom along the 14″ wide parts, if that makes any sense. I have access to the wood shop at school with most of the standard tools.
I think you are on the right track here. Tenons would probably be your best bet. I suppose you could use an alternative like dowels, but if I were doing it, I would go with the tenons. Now with a 3/4″ top, it might be cool to do through tenons. This, of course, is going to be a bit more challenging. But it would look very cool.
But between the tenons and the single stretcher, you should have plenty of strength for normal usage.
I have used a drill press to cut the mortise then use a rasp to make it a square but it takes a lot longer and is not as accurate even if you draw pencil lines
did the stupid little plastic dust shroud break off your router? mine did.
I kept hearing about all these different joining methods and even wiki’d some to figure out just what the lingo meant, but that’s a far stretch from the simple explanation you gave us, with alternate options. Thanks yet again, Marc.
Hi marc,
You said in your video that you can either square the mortise made by router, or round the tenon.
Which method do you use to round the tenon ?
I’ve tried to “chamfer” them with chisels, it seems to be ok, but I wonder if there are better ways ?
Thanks !
That’s exactly how I do it. A chisel makes pretty quick work of it.
I see that the tool has width settings and there are several different sizes of dominos and bits to choose from. You mentioned the formulas for the length of the tenon from end to shoulder and the short width of the tenon from long face to long face, but what about the long width of the tenon from short face to short face? This is difficult to describe in text.
Generally speaking, you can make the tenon as wide as you like. The longer the better in fact. But if you’re doing something like a door frame, bringing the tenon all the way out to the outside of the stile is a bit of an eyesore. So most folks opt for either a haunched tenon or a completely enclosed tenon. Leave yourself a 1/4″ shoulder at the end of the tenon and you should be fine. So there really is no rule of thumb since it varies depending on the project and your preferences.