Comments on: Cutting Board Warping – Question of the Week http://thewoodwhisperer.com/cutting-board-warping-question-of-the-week/ Education and entertainment for the modern woodworker. Sat, 21 Nov 2009 03:19:02 -0800 http://wordpress.org/?v=2.8.6 hourly 1 By: fixer http://thewoodwhisperer.com/cutting-board-warping-question-of-the-week/#comment-40160 fixer Sun, 22 Feb 2009 21:19:48 +0000 http://thewoodwhisperer.com/cutting-board-warping-question-of-the-week/#comment-40160 Love your videos, I myself have made a few boards, I do not make them for one side use, if one starts to dish I put that side down. I find that if I run the slices after cuting the glued boards through the drum sander on each glued side I can get a much flatter and better jointed board after glueing up the final board, I also try not to make any joints less then a half inch minimum brick pattern for a stronger board :>) Love your videos, I myself have made a few boards, I do not make them for one side use, if one starts to dish I put that side down. I find that if I run the slices after cuting the glued boards through the drum sander on each glued side I can get a much flatter and better jointed board after glueing up the final board, I also try not to make any joints less then a half inch minimum brick pattern for a stronger board :>)

]]> By: thewoodwhisperer http://thewoodwhisperer.com/cutting-board-warping-question-of-the-week/#comment-38788 thewoodwhisperer Wed, 17 Dec 2008 21:25:30 +0000 http://thewoodwhisperer.com/cutting-board-warping-question-of-the-week/#comment-38788 You got it Hope. Just don't use glue or anything on the plugs because you'll need to get back in there some day. You got it Hope. Just don’t use glue or anything on the plugs because you’ll need to get back in there some day.

]]> By: Hope http://thewoodwhisperer.com/cutting-board-warping-question-of-the-week/#comment-38782 Hope Wed, 17 Dec 2008 20:10:43 +0000 http://thewoodwhisperer.com/cutting-board-warping-question-of-the-week/#comment-38782 There are some wood plugs that cover the rods. If I can remove them would I just need to tighten the nuts and put the plugs back in? There are some wood plugs that cover the rods. If I can remove them would I just need to tighten the nuts and put the plugs back in?

]]> By: thewoodwhisperer http://thewoodwhisperer.com/cutting-board-warping-question-of-the-week/#comment-38781 thewoodwhisperer Wed, 17 Dec 2008 18:49:56 +0000 http://thewoodwhisperer.com/cutting-board-warping-question-of-the-week/#comment-38781 Hello Hope. Unfortunately, without seeing what you are working with, its hard to tell you how to tighten the rods. My guess is there must be some hex head or nut of some kind that you can turn. But again, without seeing it its hard to tell for sure. Hello Hope. Unfortunately, without seeing what you are working with, its hard to tell you how to tighten the rods. My guess is there must be some hex head or nut of some kind that you can turn. But again, without seeing it its hard to tell for sure.

]]> By: Hope http://thewoodwhisperer.com/cutting-board-warping-question-of-the-week/#comment-38779 Hope Wed, 17 Dec 2008 17:49:00 +0000 http://thewoodwhisperer.com/cutting-board-warping-question-of-the-week/#comment-38779 I recently purchased an antique butcher block which needs some restoration. The first thing I need to do is tighten the metal rods. Can you tell me how to do this? I recently purchased an antique butcher block which needs some restoration. The first thing I need to do is tighten the metal rods. Can you tell me how to do this?

]]> By: thewoodwhisperer http://thewoodwhisperer.com/cutting-board-warping-question-of-the-week/#comment-37911 thewoodwhisperer Tue, 18 Nov 2008 22:47:17 +0000 http://thewoodwhisperer.com/cutting-board-warping-question-of-the-week/#comment-37911 Hi beth. It can definitely be done. But your instincts are dead on. The issue is potential movement. To stack the cards in your favor, you may want to try using rift-sawn or quartersaw boards, as they tend to be more stable. Good luck. Hi beth. It can definitely be done. But your instincts are dead on. The issue is potential movement. To stack the cards in your favor, you may want to try using rift-sawn or quartersaw boards, as they tend to be more stable.

Good luck.

]]> By: Beth http://thewoodwhisperer.com/cutting-board-warping-question-of-the-week/#comment-37909 Beth Tue, 18 Nov 2008 20:20:19 +0000 http://thewoodwhisperer.com/cutting-board-warping-question-of-the-week/#comment-37909 I want to make a cutting board out of one solid piece of wood. Most of the patterns I have looked at are at least 3 pieces glued together. Is it impossible to do this type of cutting board. I realize that warping is the issue....just wondering if it can be done. Thanks, Beth I want to make a cutting board out of one solid piece of wood. Most of the patterns I have looked at are at least 3 pieces glued together. Is it impossible to do this type of cutting board. I realize that warping is the issue….just wondering if it can be done.

Thanks,
Beth

]]> By: thewoodwhisperer http://thewoodwhisperer.com/cutting-board-warping-question-of-the-week/#comment-32005 thewoodwhisperer Mon, 15 Sep 2008 05:30:03 +0000 http://thewoodwhisperer.com/cutting-board-warping-question-of-the-week/#comment-32005 Hey Rick. I will always recommend hard maple as the primary wood for butcher blocks. It is really perfect for the task. Its easy to obtain, its tight grained, its dense, and its very durable. Other woods will work, but I think maple really does the best job. I would not recommend staining it. The board is going to be used and abused, and you really don't want to ingest any stain pigments or particles. So I would absolutely forgo the coloring agents. Keep in mind that maple endgrain is quite a bit darker than face grain, so you might not find the color variation to be all that dramatic from the cabinets. And yes, it should stay together. But I will admit that I haven't done anything of that size, and there may be concerns about wood movement. Some butcher blocks have metal rods going through them that support the structure and can be tightened if need be. You should also pay close attention to grain direction. Try to keep the grain in alignment so that expansion and contraction occurs in the same direction. Lastly, just do a little homework on larger butcher blocks. There may be some tricks of the trade out there that I am not aware of, and its good to be completely prepared. Good luck. Hey Rick. I will always recommend hard maple as the primary wood for butcher blocks. It is really perfect for the task. Its easy to obtain, its tight grained, its dense, and its very durable. Other woods will work, but I think maple really does the best job.

I would not recommend staining it. The board is going to be used and abused, and you really don’t want to ingest any stain pigments or particles. So I would absolutely forgo the coloring agents. Keep in mind that maple endgrain is quite a bit darker than face grain, so you might not find the color variation to be all that dramatic from the cabinets.

And yes, it should stay together. But I will admit that I haven’t done anything of that size, and there may be concerns about wood movement. Some butcher blocks have metal rods going through them that support the structure and can be tightened if need be. You should also pay close attention to grain direction. Try to keep the grain in alignment so that expansion and contraction occurs in the same direction. Lastly, just do a little homework on larger butcher blocks. There may be some tricks of the trade out there that I am not aware of, and its good to be completely prepared.

Good luck.

]]> By: Rick http://thewoodwhisperer.com/cutting-board-warping-question-of-the-week/#comment-31899 Rick Sun, 14 Sep 2008 04:05:07 +0000 http://thewoodwhisperer.com/cutting-board-warping-question-of-the-week/#comment-31899 Your butcher block video was very clear, thank you. I am about to make 52" x 60" counter top for an island in my kitchen is one large butcher block. The cabients are oak and I will be staining them I believe in a cherry walnut. What do you recommand for wood on the butcherblock? Also, can I stain the wood or will that effect it's use as a cutting board. Lastly, do you believe that end grain as you did will stay together as a 52" x 60" x 1.5" piece. Your butcher block video was very clear, thank you. I am about to make 52″ x 60″ counter top for an island in my kitchen is one large butcher block. The cabients are oak and I will be staining them I believe in a cherry walnut. What do you recommand for wood on the butcherblock? Also, can I stain the wood or will that effect it’s use as a cutting board. Lastly, do you believe that end grain as you did will stay together as a 52″ x 60″ x 1.5″ piece.

]]> By: thewoodwhisperer http://thewoodwhisperer.com/cutting-board-warping-question-of-the-week/#comment-21266 thewoodwhisperer Sat, 26 Apr 2008 16:11:17 +0000 http://thewoodwhisperer.com/cutting-board-warping-question-of-the-week/#comment-21266 Hey Jody. Certainly plywood just has a tendency to bow. The cheaper it is, the more likely this is to happen. If you can, get ahold of baltic birch ply. This material has a bunch of plys, which helps keep things stable. Then make sure you seal both sides of the board. That should great increase your chances of keeping it flat. Hey Jody. Certainly plywood just has a tendency to bow. The cheaper it is, the more likely this is to happen. If you can, get ahold of baltic birch ply. This material has a bunch of plys, which helps keep things stable. Then make sure you seal both sides of the board. That should great increase your chances of keeping it flat.

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