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	<title>Comments on: Cutting Board Finish: Revisited</title>
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	<link>http://thewoodwhisperer.com/cutting-board-finish/</link>
	<description>Education and entertainment for the modern woodworker.</description>
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		<title>By: thewoodwhisperer</title>
		<link>http://thewoodwhisperer.com/cutting-board-finish/#comment-48214</link>
		<dc:creator>thewoodwhisperer</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 14 Oct 2009 05:10:04 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://thewoodwhisperer.com/cutting-board-finish/#comment-48214</guid>
		<description>You know, I don&#039;t see what you couldn&#039;t use pure tung oil.  I think it would be far better to use than mineral oil since it will actually cure.  It won&#039;t offer as much protection as the varnishing method but is certainly a good alternative for those those who don&#039;t want to use varnish, but don&#039;t want the mess of applying an oil that never cures.  I would have to try a few sample boards to see how well tung oil would hold up, but in theory, it seems like a great alternative.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>You know, I don&#8217;t see what you couldn&#8217;t use pure tung oil.  I think it would be far better to use than mineral oil since it will actually cure.  It won&#8217;t offer as much protection as the varnishing method but is certainly a good alternative for those those who don&#8217;t want to use varnish, but don&#8217;t want the mess of applying an oil that never cures.  I would have to try a few sample boards to see how well tung oil would hold up, but in theory, it seems like a great alternative.</p>
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		<title>By: Ron.of.the.north</title>
		<link>http://thewoodwhisperer.com/cutting-board-finish/#comment-48213</link>
		<dc:creator>Ron.of.the.north</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 14 Oct 2009 04:33:31 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://thewoodwhisperer.com/cutting-board-finish/#comment-48213</guid>
		<description>This is a very interesting discussion. I see nobody mentioned using tung oil for finishing the cutting board. Marc, how would this compare to mineral oil or walnut oil?
Thanks,
Ron</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>This is a very interesting discussion. I see nobody mentioned using tung oil for finishing the cutting board. Marc, how would this compare to mineral oil or walnut oil?<br />
Thanks,<br />
Ron</p>
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	<item>
		<title>By: thewoodwhisperer</title>
		<link>http://thewoodwhisperer.com/cutting-board-finish/#comment-45236</link>
		<dc:creator>thewoodwhisperer</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 27 Jul 2009 20:59:57 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://thewoodwhisperer.com/cutting-board-finish/#comment-45236</guid>
		<description>Sounds like the best of both worlds John!  Thanks man.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Sounds like the best of both worlds John!  Thanks man.</p>
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		<title>By: JohnG</title>
		<link>http://thewoodwhisperer.com/cutting-board-finish/#comment-45235</link>
		<dc:creator>JohnG</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 27 Jul 2009 20:57:55 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://thewoodwhisperer.com/cutting-board-finish/#comment-45235</guid>
		<description>I now have THE way to finish this awsome board.  I cook a lot and use the board at least twice per day and maybe more.

Start with the 50/50 mix that Marc describes.  Once that is dry, sand the board down with 220 grit on your dual action sander.  

I then get out the old hotplate and make a mix of mineral oil and beeswax.  Mix it so that when it is room temp, it is soft enough so you can put your finger through it (about the consistency of chapstick).  

I then heat up the mix and hot wax the board.  I pour on the hot liquid and spread it around until it solidifies.  After it cools, I scrape the excess back into the pan and buff it with a soft rag.  

This gives a finish smoother than a baby butt that lasts a month or so of daily use.  It can be hit with mineral oil for another month or so and then repeat.  A little effort but once you try it, you will not go back...</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I now have THE way to finish this awsome board.  I cook a lot and use the board at least twice per day and maybe more.</p>
<p>Start with the 50/50 mix that Marc describes.  Once that is dry, sand the board down with 220 grit on your dual action sander.  </p>
<p>I then get out the old hotplate and make a mix of mineral oil and beeswax.  Mix it so that when it is room temp, it is soft enough so you can put your finger through it (about the consistency of chapstick).  </p>
<p>I then heat up the mix and hot wax the board.  I pour on the hot liquid and spread it around until it solidifies.  After it cools, I scrape the excess back into the pan and buff it with a soft rag.  </p>
<p>This gives a finish smoother than a baby butt that lasts a month or so of daily use.  It can be hit with mineral oil for another month or so and then repeat.  A little effort but once you try it, you will not go back&#8230;</p>
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	<item>
		<title>By: thewoodwhisperer</title>
		<link>http://thewoodwhisperer.com/cutting-board-finish/#comment-45050</link>
		<dc:creator>thewoodwhisperer</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 18 Jul 2009 15:51:26 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://thewoodwhisperer.com/cutting-board-finish/#comment-45050</guid>
		<description>As far as pesticides, I doubt that is much concern.  But with exotics, toxicity is definitely a concern.  So with the exception of purpleheart, I don&#039;t really use exotics in my cutting boards (although many people do).  There just isn&#039;t enough info out there to let us know how &quot;food safe&quot; these woods are.

And in general I don&#039;t consider purpleheart to be open grained.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>As far as pesticides, I doubt that is much concern.  But with exotics, toxicity is definitely a concern.  So with the exception of purpleheart, I don&#8217;t really use exotics in my cutting boards (although many people do).  There just isn&#8217;t enough info out there to let us know how &#8220;food safe&#8221; these woods are.</p>
<p>And in general I don&#8217;t consider purpleheart to be open grained.</p>
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	<item>
		<title>By: j</title>
		<link>http://thewoodwhisperer.com/cutting-board-finish/#comment-45044</link>
		<dc:creator>j</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 18 Jul 2009 04:56:45 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://thewoodwhisperer.com/cutting-board-finish/#comment-45044</guid>
		<description>dont exotics contain toxins from pesticides used in other countries? Isnt purpleheart open grained?</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>dont exotics contain toxins from pesticides used in other countries? Isnt purpleheart open grained?</p>
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	<item>
		<title>By: thewoodwhisperer</title>
		<link>http://thewoodwhisperer.com/cutting-board-finish/#comment-43376</link>
		<dc:creator>thewoodwhisperer</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 30 Apr 2009 15:43:57 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://thewoodwhisperer.com/cutting-board-finish/#comment-43376</guid>
		<description>Hey John.  That&#039;s a hard one for me to answer.  When you get into the pre-cat stuff, there is so much going on chemically that it really can be risky to mix brands like that.  I&#039;m not saying it wouldn&#039;t work.  Also if you already spraying the 40 sheen, topping it with gloss will give you a bit of a muddy weird look.  It won&#039;t exactly be like a French polish because you won&#039;t be able to see clear down to the wood grain, even though the finish is polished.

As for the cutting board, I usually recommend people let the mineral oil board go for a few months without a reapplication of oil.  After numerous wash and dry cylces, you can usually give it a light sanding and start the varnishing process.  If you sand the board and your sandpaper gets all gummed up, just wait longer.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hey John.  That&#8217;s a hard one for me to answer.  When you get into the pre-cat stuff, there is so much going on chemically that it really can be risky to mix brands like that.  I&#8217;m not saying it wouldn&#8217;t work.  Also if you already spraying the 40 sheen, topping it with gloss will give you a bit of a muddy weird look.  It won&#8217;t exactly be like a French polish because you won&#8217;t be able to see clear down to the wood grain, even though the finish is polished.</p>
<p>As for the cutting board, I usually recommend people let the mineral oil board go for a few months without a reapplication of oil.  After numerous wash and dry cylces, you can usually give it a light sanding and start the varnishing process.  If you sand the board and your sandpaper gets all gummed up, just wait longer.</p>
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	<item>
		<title>By: john</title>
		<link>http://thewoodwhisperer.com/cutting-board-finish/#comment-43374</link>
		<dc:creator>john</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 30 Apr 2009 15:11:28 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://thewoodwhisperer.com/cutting-board-finish/#comment-43374</guid>
		<description>Im spraying some chairs 13, I,ve been using valspar pre cat @ a 40 sheen.  Just found out we need a french polish look.don&#039;t really want to rub them out, or have the time.I know it&#039;s best not to inter mix name brands,but thier is&#039;nt enough time to order a gloss pre cat from this vender.Do you think I could get by with a Sherwin Williams pre cat gloss product. Thanks for your help and first time at this web site.I&#039;ve been using mineral oil on my cutting boards and don&#039;t care for all the recoating involed.Can I sand and coat with the cut- salad boul finish? Seems the grain would be filled with mineral oil,just a thought! thanks again John South Carolina</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Im spraying some chairs 13, I,ve been using valspar pre cat @ a 40 sheen.  Just found out we need a french polish look.don&#8217;t really want to rub them out, or have the time.I know it&#8217;s best not to inter mix name brands,but thier is&#8217;nt enough time to order a gloss pre cat from this vender.Do you think I could get by with a Sherwin Williams pre cat gloss product. Thanks for your help and first time at this web site.I&#8217;ve been using mineral oil on my cutting boards and don&#8217;t care for all the recoating involed.Can I sand and coat with the cut- salad boul finish? Seems the grain would be filled with mineral oil,just a thought! thanks again John South Carolina</p>
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	<item>
		<title>By: Knute</title>
		<link>http://thewoodwhisperer.com/cutting-board-finish/#comment-43144</link>
		<dc:creator>Knute</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 25 Apr 2009 03:02:57 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://thewoodwhisperer.com/cutting-board-finish/#comment-43144</guid>
		<description>I recently had my first experience with making cutting boards. After watching the guy on TV an how he made everything look so simple, I decided to make them for ALL family members for Christmas. I ended up making 25 of them. I used about 30 species of wood, including;ash maple, red oak, white oak, cedar, walnut, yellowheart, bubinga, purpleheart, zebrawood and a host of others I didn&#039;t recognize. After multiple experiments with finishes, frustration set in. Mineral oil just didn&#039;t impress me. Diluted varnish didn&#039;t trip my trigger either. Then I tried something really crazy. I did several sandings starting with 100 grit, then 150, 220, 320, 800 and finally 1500. Before there was even a finish on them, the different woods took on a whole new attractive shine. I loved it. After that, allI did was put on three coats of the diluted varnish and waxed all the surfaces. They looked so terrific that everyone that got them didn&#039;t want to use them for cutting boards (no health issues here). They were going to hang them on the wall or use them for a hotplate or centerpiece. One friend saw them and commissioned me to make one for her...@ $200.00. Another friend wants me to make a series of matching boards to hang on a two story wall, and yet another wants a table top made. Bottom line here is that the cutting board has been expanded into art.
Thanks for the great reads...keep it up. Knute in Missouri</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I recently had my first experience with making cutting boards. After watching the guy on TV an how he made everything look so simple, I decided to make them for ALL family members for Christmas. I ended up making 25 of them. I used about 30 species of wood, including;ash maple, red oak, white oak, cedar, walnut, yellowheart, bubinga, purpleheart, zebrawood and a host of others I didn&#8217;t recognize. After multiple experiments with finishes, frustration set in. Mineral oil just didn&#8217;t impress me. Diluted varnish didn&#8217;t trip my trigger either. Then I tried something really crazy. I did several sandings starting with 100 grit, then 150, 220, 320, 800 and finally 1500. Before there was even a finish on them, the different woods took on a whole new attractive shine. I loved it. After that, allI did was put on three coats of the diluted varnish and waxed all the surfaces. They looked so terrific that everyone that got them didn&#8217;t want to use them for cutting boards (no health issues here). They were going to hang them on the wall or use them for a hotplate or centerpiece. One friend saw them and commissioned me to make one for her&#8230;@ $200.00. Another friend wants me to make a series of matching boards to hang on a two story wall, and yet another wants a table top made. Bottom line here is that the cutting board has been expanded into art.<br />
Thanks for the great reads&#8230;keep it up. Knute in Missouri</p>
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		<title>By: TheGubain</title>
		<link>http://thewoodwhisperer.com/cutting-board-finish/#comment-40575</link>
		<dc:creator>TheGubain</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 01 Mar 2009 20:19:09 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://thewoodwhisperer.com/cutting-board-finish/#comment-40575</guid>
		<description>Mark, Love your stuff and the craic from the quacks is ok too. I grew up in a small town in the ould country. We had an outhouse,yeah!, and had to use old papers. Them were the days me old friend. Whow!! was about to break into a bars of he ould song there!! Now where was I,ok yes them old days. We played in muck and dirt, we ate berries off the bush, we ate all our own produce, drank milk from the cows, cured our own meat, washed outside in a basin full of cold water. My father shave out there too. Anyway enough of all the prettyy clean stuff. Good is good enough for me. I have wathched thinks change not all for the best. We are far too clean now.  Just watch folks. Wipe off the door handle.  Need I go on. No,No, lets just go back a little and live life the way we were ment to and not as dictated by money grabbing CO&#039;s.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Mark, Love your stuff and the craic from the quacks is ok too. I grew up in a small town in the ould country. We had an outhouse,yeah!, and had to use old papers. Them were the days me old friend. Whow!! was about to break into a bars of he ould song there!! Now where was I,ok yes them old days. We played in muck and dirt, we ate berries off the bush, we ate all our own produce, drank milk from the cows, cured our own meat, washed outside in a basin full of cold water. My father shave out there too. Anyway enough of all the prettyy clean stuff. Good is good enough for me. I have wathched thinks change not all for the best. We are far too clean now.  Just watch folks. Wipe off the door handle.  Need I go on. No,No, lets just go back a little and live life the way we were ment to and not as dictated by money grabbing CO&#8217;s.</p>
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