Ceiling Height Installation Concerns- Question of the Week

March 5, 2008 | Filed Under Blog, Question of the Week 

This week’s question comes from Brad. He writes: “I have to build a set of cabinets for an 8ft room. I have to build off site, so how do I determine the proper height of the cabinets so that I can stand them up in the room? Is there a formula or just a guessing game? The depth of the cabinets are 16″ and 24″. Can you help me?”

And here was my reply: “The key is to make sure that the diagonal measurement, from the front of the top, to the back of the bottom, does not exceed 8 feet. This way you can carry the piece into the house on its side, then lay it on its back. Then simply tip it upright. Not sure how much you remember good old algebra and geometry class, but that stuff actually will come in handy here. Remember the Pythagorean Theorem? A(squared)+B(squared)= C(squared). A and B are the cabinet’s height and depth and C is the diagonal. You already have two pieces of the equation since you know the height and the depth. Just make sure you make the cabinet slightly smaller so that it fits within those numbers. Keep in mind this will get you close to the ceiling, but there will still be a gap. A good place for crown molding. Good luck!”

**** I should mention that I am by no means an expert on built-ins and installation. My experience in this area is limited to about a dozen jobs. So I look forward to hearing other perspectives on this topic.

Comments

10 Responses to “Ceiling Height Installation Concerns- Question of the Week”

  1. Donald Sweetser on March 5th, 2008 1:15 pm

    Another solution is to have a loose toe kick of 4″. Stand the case up, scribe to ceiling and slide the kick assembly in.

  2. Luke on March 5th, 2008 1:50 pm

    Don’t forget about doorways and making corners. You will most likely be able to tip it on its side to get it through door ways, but then it becomes long, so negotiating a corner may pose a problem.

  3. Dave Herron on March 5th, 2008 2:25 pm

    The diagonal measurement ( back top to front rear) needs to be less than the ceiling height.

  4. PeteJacobsen on March 5th, 2008 4:05 pm

    Just to be sure you realize it, Brad, Marc should have said you have the diagonal (8 feet) and the depth, not the height and the depth. Assuming you want them the same size, use the larger depth, 24 inches, or to keep the same units, 2 feet.

    2 squared + height squared = 8 squared, or
    height squared = 8 squared - 2 squared, or
    height squared = 64 - 4 = 60
    height = square root of 60 = 7.75 feet (approx) or 7 feet 9 inches.

  5. mdhills on March 5th, 2008 4:21 pm

    good carpenters have my respect.
    All of those nasty walls and floors are never square/level.

    If possible, it seems ideal if you can build as modular units that then get fastened on-site, and then install trim work to cover any gaps on floor/ceiling or between modules.

    Note that a large cabinet may need to be shimmed at the base, too, if you want to keep it level.

    Matt

  6. dryhter on March 5th, 2008 4:34 pm

    Hey Brad ,
    As others have said, and/or if you don’t trust math.
    Mock up the vertical profile (height by depth) out of some scrap cardboard and try it.

    DAVE

  7. Jim Jones on March 5th, 2008 6:09 pm

    First, I would measure the ceiling to make sure it is 8′ and not 7′ 11″ or something even less.

    If it is 8′, you will have to build it to 7′ 9″ or a little less like Pete mentioned. Nothing will ruin your day worse than feeling it hit the ceiling when you stand it up.

    You have to choose between adding (a) a toe kick / platform like Donald mentioned, or (b) molding at the top like a crown molding.

  8. Vic on March 5th, 2008 9:31 pm

    Brad the easiest route for doing a built in is in parts. It’s all basically carcase construction. Using a “toe kick” base is a good idea as it allows you to shim the piece, then scribe the base molding. The face material can then be added and finally the crown or whatever you’ve drawn can then be scribed to the ceiling. Good luck with the commission. Just remember to do a very good job of cleaning up after yourself, that is the most common complaint I hear from people that have had a contractor of any trade in their house.

  9. titmas on March 6th, 2008 4:22 pm

    first check to see if the cabinet will get through the doors and around any corners before you build it. if you can make it to two pieces(1 top and 1 bottom cabinet) it will be easier and quicker to build, transport, and install it. and if the seam is a problem you can make a full height end panel to cover the exposed ends. you can also build it with Conformat screws and assemble it on site if that is the only option. when we build large floor to ceiling pantry style cabinets with no crown we make the toe kick as a separate piece so that we can stand the cabinet up in the room and than lift it on the kick. make sure that one of your cabinets diagonal measurement is less then the ceiling height so you have clearance to tip it up. for cabinets with crown on top you have even more room to move if you make the crown a separate piece and slide it in after the cabinet is in place.

  10. Pops on March 6th, 2008 10:33 pm

    Hey Brad, I have built many tall cabs and most important, make certain you can get the cabinet in the house before you build it in one piece. My rule of thumb for 8 ft ceilings is a 90″ cabinet with a detachable 4″ toe kick. Level the toe kick and then tilt the cabinet up and slide onto the toe kick. This gives you 2″ to play with and crown molding finishes off the job. Make sure you have a clear area, free of light fixtures to tilt the cab. Piece of cake.

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