Krylon recently released a line of exterior wood stains in spray form. A very convenient way to transfer color to your outdoor projects! I sprayed 6 different test boards (maple and white oak) just to see how well the stain applies. Watch the video to see the results and hear my opinion of the product. If you want more information, check out SaveOurSaturdays.com

So with a cold glass of citrus green tea, I sat down to 104 minutes of turning school, Popular Woodworking style. After hitting play, I was pleasantly surprised to see Steve immediately jump into turning a chisel handle. Instead of spending 20 minutes filling our heads with terminology and rules, Steve skips the foreplay and gets right down to business. I love this approach because it gives you time to think of questions. “What is that?” “Why did he do that?” “What do you call that tool?” By the time the chisel handle is finished, you are ready to have these questions answered and Steve does exactly that, from turning techniques to sharpening to tool terminology, its all here.

As a self-taught turner, I basically figured out what each tool does and I use it in the way I think it would work best. I don’t always know the how’s and why’s of what I am doing but I know it works. Well, with Steve’s descriptions and demonstrations of the cutting action of each tool, I can safely say that I’ve filled that gap in my knowledge. If I had this information when I did my first turning, I would have saved myself a lot of trial and error. If you are new to turning, there is really no substitute for getting in there and trying it yourself. But if you watch a DVD like this first, you will have a much more satisfying, safe and productive first experience.

Steve’s calm demeanor will guide you through just about everything you need to know to jump into the shop, chuck up a stick and start making shavings. I am giving this DVD a strong recommendation for anyone new to turning, or for those who are self-taught and feel like there may be gaps in their understanding of the fundamentals (like me). Experienced turners may want to take a pass, unless you just can’t get enough turning content.

And please enjoy this short trailer provided by the folks over at Popular Woodworking:

Bill Hall was the lucky winner of our free DVD giveaway! Congrats Bill!

Here is my review of the DeWalt Tracksaw, FINALLY! As much as I tried to focus solely on the Tracksaw, its nearly impossible not to draw comparisons to the Festool TS line of plunge saws. Let me sum it all up by saying you need to be really picky to find distinctions that will make a real difference to the average woodworker. If you are trying to make a decision between these two saws, you will probably need to look at bigger picture things like price, system approach, warranty, and interoperability with other tools. But if you are looking for a saw that makes extremely safe and clean cuts with good dust collection, either saw will fit the bill.

Here are a few other reviews and comparisons that you might want to check out:
Mike Heidrick’s Comparison on Sawmill Creek
Tom Hintz’s Review at New Woodworker
Professional Power Tool Guide Review
Festool’s Tracksaw Site

• Step-by-step table saw set-up techniques.
• Crosscutting and ripping techniques.
• Narrow, wide and short stock ripping techniques.
• Dados, rabbets, bevelled rip cuts and other special cases.
• Bonus footage on building a crosscut sled.

So who do I recommend this DVD for? Primarily beginners. I say that with a little hesitation because there are a ton of valuable gems that even experienced woodworkers will benefit from learning. I wish this DVD were available when I first started woodworking as it would have saved me a lot of grief!

You can learn more about Hendrik and purchase his instructional DVDs at PassionForWood.com.

Tenryu recently sent me a few samples of their latest offerings for the Kapex and I’ve been playing with them for the last few weeks. Overall, the quality is exactly what you would expect from a high quality blade manufacturer. How does it compare with the stock Festool blade? My initial non-scientific tests showed that the Festool blade produced a smoother cut on 8/4 bubinga. I tested this by feel and by rubbing the endgrain with chalk to observe the surface imperfections. Tenryu explained the reason for this phenomenon and it has everything to do with the grind on the teeth. The Tenryu ATAF (Alternate Top/Alternate Face) grind makes a more aggressive shearing cut, while the Festool blade has an ATB (Alternate Top Bevel) grind which essentially burnishes as it cuts, resulting in a surface that feels smoother. I also noticed less tearout at the back end of the cut with the Tenryu blades. But given the fact that they have higher tooth count, this isn’t too surprising.

I honestly didn’t do enough testing to tell you one blade is better than the other. But if you are looking for an alternative to the blades Festool offers, its nice to know that these are available. Tenryu already has two on the market and you can purchase them here. I also heard from Tenryu that they will soon offer thinner kerf blades for the TS-55 plunge cut saw (.063″, 52 tooth and be supplied with its own riving knife). They hope to have the blades by the middle of October.

This video covers my initial impressions and experience with the Earlex Spray Station 5000. To sum up, I thought the Earlex did a darn good job spraying pretty much everything I put in it, including oil-based poly, water-based finishes, lacquer, and latex paint. I would probably recommend purchasing some of the smaller tip sets though, since they will increase performance on the water-based stuff. The 5000 does lack some of the spray controls typically found in higher-priced 3 and 4-stage units, but sometimes those extra features are just unnecessary. I found the simplicity of the unit to be refreshing. In fact, there were a few occasions where I needed to spray and I found myself gravitating to the Earlex primarily because of its simplicity. Now the unit has only been in my possession for about a month so I can’t comment on its longevity. But from what I’ve seen so far, I think the Earlex represents what many of you are looking for: a low-cost way of getting into the spraying game, without scarifying the quality of your finish.

I would also like to thank Charles Neil for his help “behind the scenes” on this video. You can see his video on 2-stage turbines on Youtube.

***UPDATE (10/5/09)*** Its been well over a year since I first used the Earlex and I am still very happy with the unit. I have sprayed everything from water-based to lacquer and many variations of stains and dyes and the performance has been excellent. I did have a problem with the gun at one point, when the small nut that holds the lid to the gun actually cracked. One phone call resulted in an immediate replacement and I was back in business in no time. My concerns about the longevity of the unit were based on the housing being primarily plastic, and the hose being a little stiffer and “cheaper” than I was used to. As a result, I diligently wrap the hose up after every use and I am careful not to step on it. Taking these precautions, I have had absolutely no problems with the hose. This unit is still a highly-recommended purchase.

The sand paper clogs too quickly, even on the coarser grits (the grits with the lowest numbers). They have to be cleaned constantly with the rubber cleaner to be effective. The coarsest grit provided isn’t coarse enough for even moderate metal removal. It is great for light metal removal, honing, and finishing to a near mirrored surface; but if you are looking to flatten the back of a wide blade that is fresh out of the box, or damaged, you will need to buy a coarser grit (100 grit) to start with.

The sticky backed sand paper is prone to air bubbles which is a leading cause of sand paper blow out. This at least can be corrected by using a needle to open a passage for the air to escape through the paper. This is a huge issue especially for the finer grits. The only positive angle stops are at 20, 25, 30, and 35. This is good for basic sharpening, but you are unable to get that 1 to 2 degree micro-bevel that I have been spoiled into getting with other devices. You can get a very decent 5 degree micro-bevel on the first three angles by setting it up a 5 degree notch though.

The ring that surrounds the spinning disc is made out of aluminum. This means that it is not conductive to magnets. It would be of great help to be about to attach magnets to the ring to attract some of the metal dust that is flung off the disc. The metal dust is an issue. With the WS3000 it is flung everywhere. One of the best and worst things about water stones is the water/slurry that is made during the sharpening process traps the metal “filings” or dust that is made, bonus for them; but the negative side of the coin is that it is sloppy and a wet mess afterwards.

With the top rest that can be used, that can also be mounted under the disc for free-hand sharpening, there is no angle indicator. Ok, I hear the “but that is what free hand sharpening is all about.” Well that is fine, but there are many times during my sharpening experience that the iron is pulled or jerked to the side. This throws off consistent sharpening. It would be good if they provided at least a registration plate to slide on to the tool rest, like a wide tight fitting washer that could be used to make sure the blade was perpendicular to the disc while sharpening, if it was desired. Another slight issue is that unless you are going free hand you are limited to a 2″ blade. That means that any plane blades over that and you are hosed, this includes #4 1/2, #5 1/2, and up. But look toward the bottom for a trick to over come this short coming.

For the plus side of things: You can basically use any 6″ PSA disc (PSA is the sticky backed type) on the system. As long as, of course, you punch a 3/4″ hole in the dead center. And you can get those at any hardware store, but it is generally not possible to find the higher 1000+ grit variety. So for those you are going to have to go to WorkSharp; or MAYBE a higher end auto parts/painting place or the Internet or maybe make your own. A great thing because, again, you can get 100 grit discs for the more hard core metal removal if you really toast a blade. Another one for the plus side is that sharpening gouges is great. The view-thru wheel is wonderful for irregular shaped blades that you need to watch as you grind. Although you still need to deal with the free-handed idea that you can’t set a stable angle without some practice, the tool rest can be mounted on the bottom to help with any blade. This is where this system shines. With stones and every other sharpening system I have used, outside of MDF and a molded contour with embedded diamond paste, this is the only system that truly allows you to effectively manage the shape and angle of the edge. By being able to actually look through the wheel you are able to hone an edge without wondering if I am bluing the edge or grinding it past the point of effectiveness. The aluminum flat tool rest for chisels acts as a decent heat sync. The registration guide can also be moved further to the left than is what is documented. This does make it possible to sharpen blades beyond the 2″ limit with proper registration but since the blade is off the aluminum heat sync backing you must be careful not to blue the edge.

Although I have pointed out some nit-picky details that I would like to see upgraded or at least optional, I like the unit as a whole. It is a great starter sharpening center for any turner, chisel or plane jockey, or gouge monkey that isn’t going to count on it to sharpen jointer blades or need hollow bevels. But it is just not the end all be all, and people shouldn’t look at it like it is. No sharpening set up is. They all have their own negatives and positives. I wouldn’t toss my 120 grit small grinding stone on my Delta sharpener, it is great for hollowed bevels. I wouldn’t toss my stones either, they are outstanding with my Veritas MK II guide for accurate angles and micro-bevels of 1 and 2 degrees.

Work Sharp ™ WS3000 Tool Sharpener This special package includes an additional slotted wheel. $19.99 Value! Air-cooled, dry sharpening system eliminates the mess of a wet system. Work Sharp ™ WS3000 Tool Sharpener

Chris has a friendly and accessible writing style that makes this book read more like a great story than a reference book. A book that teaches you is good. A book that entertains you and educates you without you being aware of it is priceless. The book is chock-full of historical images and information on the workbenches of yesteryear as well as detailed explanations of their features and how they influence the workbenches we know and (sometimes) love today. But with Chris’s anecdotes and light-hearted story-telling, even a person who runs a powertool-focused shop will find that the information is not only palatable, but pleasurable.

I don’t want to create a spoiler here, but after reading this book, you will never look at a workbench the same way again. As I said before, my beautiful workbench that I spent weeks working on (ok maybe it was days, but it sure felt like weeks), is now a painful reminder of my lack of knowledge at the time that I built it. Like many woodworkers, I constructed the bench before I really knew exactly how I would use it. I actually came up with a simple design that reflected the fact that I primarily use power-tools. But now that I am beginning to focus more on the hand tools, it has become clear that a new workbench is on this year’s to-do list.

While Chris strikes me as something of a connoisseur of workbenches, he is by no means snobbish. In fact, he has very down-to-earth theories concerning workbenches, their design, their function, and their looks. One of Chris’s strongest messages is that workbenches don’t need to be made from the most expensive hardest wood. In fact, doing so is completely unnecessary. You’ll have to read the book to find out Chris’s opinion on the best woods for the job, but suffice it to say you will most likely find it at the local home center……..a refreshing change of pace.

The book contains two workbench plans: one English and one French. I am leaning toward the French version myself. The plans are very clear and just about anyone should be able to construct these benches with ease using Chris’s methodology. The Deluxe version of the book comes with a CD that contains bonuses such as the complete and searchable text of the book, 3D models of the two benches in the book, plus a bonus workbench plan and slideshows of the bench-construction process.

I would go so far as to say this book should be a required prerequisite for any woodworker who has any level of interest in workbenches. Whether your current bench is super fancy with all the bells and whistles, or simply a solid-core door on saw horses, you will have some real food for thought after reading this book. I don’t expect everyone to experience the ground-shaking revelation I did, but you will certainly walk away with a better understanding of a workbench’s intended role in a wood shop, and more importantly, YOUR workbenches role in YOUR shop. Now if you will excuse me, I have some day-dreaming to do.
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Chris was kind enough to supply us with one of his books for our January Wood Whisperer Giveaway. I will post an official announcement about that in January. But if you would like to purchase a copy of Workbenches, you can do so here. By the way, this package is an INCREDIBLE value. You are getting a 144-page hardbound book and a cd containing the complete and searchable text of the book, 3D models of the benches, a bonus workbench plan and slideshows of the bench-construction process. In case you weren’t counting, that’s 3 workbench plans in addition to the book. A killer deal for $34.

Check out Chris’s blog at Woodworking-Magazine.com/blog. And if you would like to see what other books and DVD’s Chris has to offer, check out LostArtPress.com/

Before I go into the details here, I would first like to talk about product reviews. I am by no means a “reviewer”. I don’t have standardized testing procedures and I really don’t care to. All I can do is tell you how a product worked in my hands. That doesn’t necessarily indicate how it will work in your hands. But I do feel the “everyday man” approach can sometimes be much more informative than the formal, over-complicated, and “out of touch with the real world” scenarios we read about in many publications. So please take my comments with a grain of salt. They are, after all, one man’s experience.

So why did I upgrade the fence in the first place? I was very happy with my Powermatic fence, but I really liked the idea of micro-adjustability and increased accuracy. I wasn’t convinced that I NEEDED it. I just WANTED it. I am sure you can relate. After all, Incra has a reputation for unparalleled precision and accuracy (excuse the pun). And who wouldn’t want a little more accuracy.

The system was pretty straight forward and the instructions clear. The kit came with a excellent DVD as well. Everything was going smoothly until it was time to align the fence with the blade. In my case I just used my miter slot. Alignment of the fence is accomplished by tightening down the 8 screws that hold the positioner in place on the far right side of the saw. Now for initial setup, I am not very picky. I actually use my fingers to determine whether the fence is parallel with the miter slot (surprisingly accurate, by the way). I would position the fence and tighten the screws. Then I would release the fence, push it all the way to the right and then back to the miter slot. When I would clamp it down, the alignment would be slightly off. I proceeded to go through what felt like a trial and error-style setup procedure for another hour. And when it was all said and done, I was still not confident the fence was locking into exactly the same position every time. Several week’s later, I felt the same way.

One of the great features of this system is the micro adjustability. Once you have your fence lined up for a cut, you can raise the cam clamp into the first position, which engages the lead screw. At that point you can use the little click wheel to make adjustments down to 0.002″. Pretty cool. To completely secure the fence for a cut, you pull the cam clamp to the second position and then tighten a small thumb screw at the user end of the fence itself. Despite the extra security, I really never felt confident that the fence was locking down perfectly parallel to the blade every time. It actually reminded me of the lack of confidence I used to have in my first Craftsman tablesaw fence. I remember having to make sure the fence was completely snug against the rail before clamping down, otherwise it would be skewed. Now the Incra wasn’t quite THAT bad, but the fact remained that I was still experience this lack of trust. On my Powermatic system, I can have the fence tweaked in one direction or the other, and when the clamp comes down that sucker pops into place whether it likes it or not. As a result I have complete confidence in the alignment of the Powermatic fence. Unfortunately, after several weeks with the Incra I was never able to build up that confidence.

To be honest, I was willing to live with these “issues”, or at least deal with them for a little while longer. But then came my first big project with the new system. I had to make a simple cabinet out of 3/4″ Baltic Birch. I thought it would be a great test of the new fence. And it actually revealed to me what, at least in my shop, proved to be the Achilles Heel of the entire system: limited rip capacity. The widest rip it could handle was 29″. Now I could certainly live with that if I had no other option, but apparently I had become so accustomed to having full cabinet saw rip capacity, that this was the deal breaker. Now I know you can shift the fence rails and readjust everything for the wider cut, but that’s just too much darn work for me. So I spent another day removing the Incra, and replacing it with my old Powermatic. And I have to tell you, it was like taking off a pair of uncomfortable dress shoes and slipping back into my perfectly worn Adidas sneakers.

I think I have been avoiding this write-up simply because of the overall negative tone. I have read so many positive reviews about this system that I began second-guessing my own experiences. So if you have experiences with the Incra system that differ from mine, please feel free to respond to this post. And if you are interested in this fence system, try to find a friend that has one so you can get get some hands on time for yourself. To be fair, the Incra system is a huge upgrade from most cheapo fences that come on contractor saws (although these are getting better every year). But if you have a decent t-square fence that is in working order, I don’t think I would recommend the Incra unit as an upgrade. To me, the things I lost were not worth what little I gained. But if you are the type of person who values micro-adjustability on a tablesaw and you don’t mind taking the time to occasionally change the setup for different cuts, you might thing this fence is a worthwhile investment.