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	<title>Comments on: Bubinga Sideboard &#8211; Viewer Project</title>
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	<link>http://thewoodwhisperer.com/bubinga-sideboard/</link>
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		<title>By: David (RusticJoy)</title>
		<link>http://thewoodwhisperer.com/bubinga-sideboard/#comment-48602</link>
		<dc:creator>David (RusticJoy)</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 18 Oct 2009 23:14:46 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://thewoodwhisperer.com/?p=9401#comment-48602</guid>
		<description>OMG that is some amazing craftsmenship,  You do very good work.  Thank you for shareing this with us.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>OMG that is some amazing craftsmenship,  You do very good work.  Thank you for shareing this with us.</p>
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		<title>By: Spigot</title>
		<link>http://thewoodwhisperer.com/bubinga-sideboard/#comment-48445</link>
		<dc:creator>Spigot</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 17 Oct 2009 04:18:13 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://thewoodwhisperer.com/?p=9401#comment-48445</guid>
		<description>GNARLY!! or should I say &quot;BURLEY&quot;!!!  Very beautiful... I dream of making something half as pretty.  {SIGH}</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>GNARLY!! or should I say &#8220;BURLEY&#8221;!!!  Very beautiful&#8230; I dream of making something half as pretty.  {SIGH}</p>
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		<title>By: Claude Stewart</title>
		<link>http://thewoodwhisperer.com/bubinga-sideboard/#comment-48422</link>
		<dc:creator>Claude Stewart</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 17 Oct 2009 01:10:59 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://thewoodwhisperer.com/?p=9401#comment-48422</guid>
		<description>Beautiful.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Beautiful.</p>
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		<title>By: Preamble</title>
		<link>http://thewoodwhisperer.com/bubinga-sideboard/#comment-48419</link>
		<dc:creator>Preamble</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 17 Oct 2009 01:01:57 +0000</pubDate>
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		<description>Awsome project, thanks for providing so many pictures on your website.

And thanks for showing the mirror, great idea to keep an eye on the cut from behind.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Awsome project, thanks for providing so many pictures on your website.</p>
<p>And thanks for showing the mirror, great idea to keep an eye on the cut from behind.</p>
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		<title>By: Tom Buhl</title>
		<link>http://thewoodwhisperer.com/bubinga-sideboard/#comment-48380</link>
		<dc:creator>Tom Buhl</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 16 Oct 2009 21:33:31 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://thewoodwhisperer.com/?p=9401#comment-48380</guid>
		<description>Hi Dave, I was pretty shocked to see this level of figure on solid boards. Even more amazing was that I was in the wood store and saw three of these 10&quot; x 10&#039; boards and seeing a customer loading a truck. Next day I returned and saw that he only took 1-1/2 of those sweet boards. So I snapped &#039;em up. I used basic white glue for some of the big glue ups for longer work time. Yellow glue for quicker steps. Didn&#039;t seem to be a problem. Bubinga is VERY heavy. And nasty of steel edges. I foolisly used a nice, new, expensive paring chisel for some early work. Edge folded right over! Went to my Lee Valley plastic handle bench chisels from that point on. I read a review that marked these down for their fat edges and a few other things, but they did not that edge held sharpness very well. Even so I sharpened very often. I&#039;ve talked to friend who loathes Bubinga for its nasty slivers. Didn&#039;t have any trouble, but I was forwarned. No special steps other than frequent sharpening and patience.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi Dave, I was pretty shocked to see this level of figure on solid boards. Even more amazing was that I was in the wood store and saw three of these 10&#8243; x 10&#8242; boards and seeing a customer loading a truck. Next day I returned and saw that he only took 1-1/2 of those sweet boards. So I snapped &#8216;em up. I used basic white glue for some of the big glue ups for longer work time. Yellow glue for quicker steps. Didn&#8217;t seem to be a problem. Bubinga is VERY heavy. And nasty of steel edges. I foolisly used a nice, new, expensive paring chisel for some early work. Edge folded right over! Went to my Lee Valley plastic handle bench chisels from that point on. I read a review that marked these down for their fat edges and a few other things, but they did not that edge held sharpness very well. Even so I sharpened very often. I&#8217;ve talked to friend who loathes Bubinga for its nasty slivers. Didn&#8217;t have any trouble, but I was forwarned. No special steps other than frequent sharpening and patience.</p>
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		<title>By: Dave Nesting</title>
		<link>http://thewoodwhisperer.com/bubinga-sideboard/#comment-48367</link>
		<dc:creator>Dave Nesting</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 16 Oct 2009 20:39:14 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://thewoodwhisperer.com/?p=9401#comment-48367</guid>
		<description>Tom -
The sideboard is a beautiful piece.  Most Bubinga pieces one sees, are slab tabletops or veneers but you have complete casework and joinery in Solid Bubinga.  Can you comment about this material versus domestic hardwoods?
I am especially curious about the glue used - and/or special steps taken.  I love the look of the wood at the dealer, and the price is not so bad but I find myself a little scared of it.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Tom -<br />
The sideboard is a beautiful piece.  Most Bubinga pieces one sees, are slab tabletops or veneers but you have complete casework and joinery in Solid Bubinga.  Can you comment about this material versus domestic hardwoods?<br />
I am especially curious about the glue used &#8211; and/or special steps taken.  I love the look of the wood at the dealer, and the price is not so bad but I find myself a little scared of it.</p>
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		<title>By: Jason Page</title>
		<link>http://thewoodwhisperer.com/bubinga-sideboard/#comment-48335</link>
		<dc:creator>Jason Page</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 16 Oct 2009 13:11:15 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://thewoodwhisperer.com/?p=9401#comment-48335</guid>
		<description>This piece is absolutely beautiful.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>This piece is absolutely beautiful.</p>
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		<title>By: Tom Buhl</title>
		<link>http://thewoodwhisperer.com/bubinga-sideboard/#comment-48334</link>
		<dc:creator>Tom Buhl</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 16 Oct 2009 10:49:26 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://thewoodwhisperer.com/?p=9401#comment-48334</guid>
		<description>Jason mentioned the door panels being flush with frames. As I commented, they are slightly &quot;below&quot; frame surface. I think if they were literally flush they might actually appear to be proud. I made some test pieces with raised panel. Which I thought looked cool (my first attempt at using table saw to shape) and was very proud. My wife gasped in horror. She loathes the kitchen cabinet raised panel look. Not sure what in her childhood brings that out, but as she is so supportive of my woodworking I have to respect that sensibility. At least in this case I have to say I&#039;m glad I made panels as I did. They work. Sometimes I&#039;ll do inset panels, but so far, no raised panels.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Jason mentioned the door panels being flush with frames. As I commented, they are slightly &#8220;below&#8221; frame surface. I think if they were literally flush they might actually appear to be proud. I made some test pieces with raised panel. Which I thought looked cool (my first attempt at using table saw to shape) and was very proud. My wife gasped in horror. She loathes the kitchen cabinet raised panel look. Not sure what in her childhood brings that out, but as she is so supportive of my woodworking I have to respect that sensibility. At least in this case I have to say I&#8217;m glad I made panels as I did. They work. Sometimes I&#8217;ll do inset panels, but so far, no raised panels.</p>
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	<item>
		<title>By: Tom Buhl</title>
		<link>http://thewoodwhisperer.com/bubinga-sideboard/#comment-48332</link>
		<dc:creator>Tom Buhl</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 16 Oct 2009 10:37:57 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://thewoodwhisperer.com/?p=9401#comment-48332</guid>
		<description>Hello Tom, bubinga is from Soboba, 15 Anacapa Street, just half block up from the beach near the wharf. Great location! He has very nice selection of the basic domestic woods as well as wide range of exotics. Good range of sizes. Not racks and racks of the same material. Sort of a boutique selection in the funk zone. Prices not cheap I suspect but it is local and I can pick through board by board. He&#039;ll cut off several feet of something with no price adjustment. When I started out he&#039;d joint an edge for me if I wanted at no extra charge. Owner is yet another &quot;Tom.&quot; I paid $400 for a 10 foot and one 5 foot boards of the incredible 4/4 x 10&quot; (it was $12.95 per board foot). Which I believe is what he charges for his basic Bubinga. For this project I bought perhaps another $250 of less showy Bubinga (still had nice figure) as well as the Padauk and drawer materials. I am sure he gets his material from a Los Angeles distributor. So if you are two hours south you can probably find many sources. If you are two hours north, perhaps you should check him out. If in SB area and you&#039;d like a shop tour or to talk wood let me know. You can contact through TWW Community pages, or check www.tombuhl.com for contact info. Google finds me readily.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hello Tom, bubinga is from Soboba, 15 Anacapa Street, just half block up from the beach near the wharf. Great location! He has very nice selection of the basic domestic woods as well as wide range of exotics. Good range of sizes. Not racks and racks of the same material. Sort of a boutique selection in the funk zone. Prices not cheap I suspect but it is local and I can pick through board by board. He&#8217;ll cut off several feet of something with no price adjustment. When I started out he&#8217;d joint an edge for me if I wanted at no extra charge. Owner is yet another &#8220;Tom.&#8221; I paid $400 for a 10 foot and one 5 foot boards of the incredible 4/4 x 10&#8243; (it was $12.95 per board foot). Which I believe is what he charges for his basic Bubinga. For this project I bought perhaps another $250 of less showy Bubinga (still had nice figure) as well as the Padauk and drawer materials. I am sure he gets his material from a Los Angeles distributor. So if you are two hours south you can probably find many sources. If you are two hours north, perhaps you should check him out. If in SB area and you&#8217;d like a shop tour or to talk wood let me know. You can contact through TWW Community pages, or check <a href="http://www.tombuhl.com" rel="nofollow">http://www.tombuhl.com</a> for contact info. Google finds me readily.</p>
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	<item>
		<title>By: Tom Buhl</title>
		<link>http://thewoodwhisperer.com/bubinga-sideboard/#comment-48329</link>
		<dc:creator>Tom Buhl</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 16 Oct 2009 10:21:12 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://thewoodwhisperer.com/?p=9401#comment-48329</guid>
		<description>Hey Eric, Besides the hinges I also used screws to hold the back upper molding strip which secures the back slats. Slats are set into grooves up and down with ship lapped sides. The screws allow me to remove the back for repairs/adjustments. The three lower drawers use wooden runners which are screwed into a shallow stopped groove on vertical dividers. Matching grooves on drawer sides slide onto the wooden runners. This approach allows me to float the drawers in the space without the need for horizontal dividers. Newer quality metal drawer slides are great for utility work like kitchen cabinets but don&#039;t suit my taste for &quot;fine&quot; furniture. I like avoiding use of metal/store bought materials when possible unless it is a mixed materials type piece, which I haven&#039;t gotten to yet. Perhaps some day. Nice when you can make the &quot;hardware.&quot; Haven&#039;t gotten to wooden hinges yet. Perhaps some day.
I worked on this about 4-1/2 months. Which was mover winter so pace somewhat impacted by winter rains. My garage workshop is filled to the brim, so I have to roll carts and tools out in oder to work. Great when weather is nice. Not so good during rainy spells...like this week.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hey Eric, Besides the hinges I also used screws to hold the back upper molding strip which secures the back slats. Slats are set into grooves up and down with ship lapped sides. The screws allow me to remove the back for repairs/adjustments. The three lower drawers use wooden runners which are screwed into a shallow stopped groove on vertical dividers. Matching grooves on drawer sides slide onto the wooden runners. This approach allows me to float the drawers in the space without the need for horizontal dividers. Newer quality metal drawer slides are great for utility work like kitchen cabinets but don&#8217;t suit my taste for &#8220;fine&#8221; furniture. I like avoiding use of metal/store bought materials when possible unless it is a mixed materials type piece, which I haven&#8217;t gotten to yet. Perhaps some day. Nice when you can make the &#8220;hardware.&#8221; Haven&#8217;t gotten to wooden hinges yet. Perhaps some day.<br />
I worked on this about 4-1/2 months. Which was mover winter so pace somewhat impacted by winter rains. My garage workshop is filled to the brim, so I have to roll carts and tools out in oder to work. Great when weather is nice. Not so good during rainy spells&#8230;like this week.</p>
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