Bubinga Sideboard – Viewer Project
Tom has submitted an incredible Sideboard project for our viewing pleasure. Let’s check it out:
I found this amazing Bubinga at Soboba (in Santa Barbara) and knew I’d find a special project for it. There was enough for most major parts. The amount of figured wood limited my ability to completely match horizontally and vertically, but I am pleased with the outcome.
Sideboard begins as a dovetailed case. Double thickness sides let me make the half-blind dovetails the easy way. That approach also means the sides and legs are flush on the inside, with a slight reveal on the outside. Vertical dividers have through tenons let into mortises top and bottom. Case is joined to the Legs with various stub tenons and dovetails on the outsides of top and bottom pieces. Legs have a very slight taper. This case is so bloody heavy that I was afraid to remove much material from the Padauk legs.
Doors are hung using Soss “invisible” hinges thanks to Marc’s video of the Gadget Station while I was designing this piece. Which created a problem…identified after all else was assembled of course. Without a face frame, the legs interfered with the doors. So last minute taper and rounding of the outside stiles was necessary. Opps. Drawers are hand-cut dovetails with solid bottoms. Inside material is Philippine Mahogany. I had planned to use ebonized something for the pulls but eventually decided to use Padauk which darkens quite quickly and visually ties to the legs rather than creating a separate contrast. Back is composed of ship-lapped slats in grooves at bottom and held at the top with a simple molding strip.
Click here to view photos including quite a few of the progress and process in slide show format.
Comments
46 Responses to “Bubinga Sideboard – Viewer Project”Speak Your Mind and Maybe Win a Prize!
Leave a comment and you could be a winner in our Wood Whisperer Giveaway!And if you want a pic to show with your comment, go get a gravatar!
Check it Out!
Premium Membership
Keep Up With TWW!
Shop our Affiliates
Latest Video
Proud to be Sponsored By:
Support our Advertisers
Very nice. :) I really like the clean look of no face frame. Curious, where did you get that chisel tool, that looks awesome.
coffeemann, that is a Veritas Route Plane, featured in some of Marc’s videos. I am fond of that tool.
Woa! This is phenomenal! You should be very proud. I talk a lot about heritage. This piece will be part of your heritage. Whatever you do, make sure it stays in your family. A piece like this could survive for hundreds of years.
Truly stunning ! The wood, the design and mostly the craftmanship. Tom, thank you for sharing. Really nice job.
That is some of the most beautiful wood I have seen to date.
Tom – Fantastic work. The wood is absolutely gorgeous. I really like how there wasn’t too much contrast in colors. The deep reds and browns really provided a warmth to the piece that in a strange way matched the grain. Fantastic job on this, but next time there is no need to give me the finger just because I don’t have a nice router plane like yours ;o)
Bryan, that stray finger was aimed at the photographer, not you. Our photo editors didn’t catch that one. Hopefully it slides by the FCC.
Wow, the wood is beautiful. What a pleasure to look at natures gifts. Your skill is displayed well. Very nicely done. Thank you for sharing.
Nicely done, sir.
Tom,
THe wood is awesome and your skill is inspiring. If I can someday come within 50% of your abilities I would be happy. Thank you for sharing.
We have all been there when we found a stunning piece of wood at the lumber yard. In my case I have pieces of amazing wood laying about yet to find a home. You did an amazing job turning beautiful stock into something that will last through the ages. I love the dimensions too. Oftentimes sideboards can be so long as to dominate a room and this looks to be a more agreeable size. I am very impressed.
Man that’s just stunning!! Such beautiful wood and a pleasing design. Well done!
Very nicely done indeed. I bet you thought carefully before cutting into that wood.
indeed, did initial milling with jointer/planer and such, but once glued up I didn’t have the nerve to risk tear out, so lots of hand scraper attention.
That is a beautiful piece Tom. I am in the process of making a sofa table that is wider and shorter than your piece but has the same 3 bay configuration. The only difference is that I only have two drawers in the central bay and a large open space underneath. I went through the pictures on your website and learned a great deal just looking at the pictures. A had a couple of moments where I kicked myself for not thinking of doing some joinery the way you did it. In particular, I like the way you dovetailed the case together and then attached the legs. How are the legs attached? My case is all frame and panels and I had a really hard time figuring out how to do all the joinery. I’m also curious as to why you felt the need to route a shallow groove for the drawer runners. Are these simply for alignment? I like the look of the doors panels being flush with the rails and stiles. Are you worried about the side gap opening up? How much of a gap di you leave? Installing the ship lap panels in grooves is genius! is the top moulding connected to the top?
Jason, Legs have a number of “attachments,” at the case top there are tails in the case pieces that fit into dovetail sockets at end of legs. The front one is half tail because of recess for door/drawer/dividers, back is full dovetail. Case bottom has stud tenons, once again larger in back than front. Horizontal Dividers also have stub tenons. Plus with almost 1.5 inches of side edge surface that is a large glue surface area. Found an old FWW PDF “Sideboard Strategies” by Will Neptune that offers an approach to case design that I’ve used several times.
I Routed a shallow stopped groove in sides, screwed in wooden runners that sit proud and are bearing surface for grooves in drawer sides. I’ve used this many times and like the approach. Wouldn’t use it for long drawers. This approach means you don’t lose vertical space to dividers/runner surface. Top drawers do run freely on the horizontal divider.
Actually the door panels are slightly inset from frame. Perhaps a fat 1/16″ gap with perhaps that much “space” in the grooves for expansion. Given the relatively small size of the doors I think I am very safe. Especially in Santa Barbara without central heating or cooling.
On the back, the top molding screws into the Case Top, not the show top. You can write direct if you have any other questions, or post here. Thanks for your close inspection. Oh, did you go to the link? That has more pix of the process. Might give more clues on design and process.
Truly AMAZING JOB!!! As a new woodworker, seeing someone produce something so beautiful is both immensely inspiring, and unbelievable intimidating. I don’t know if I will ever be able to come CLOSE to matching =o) But thanks so much for sharing, and once again truly an amazing job!!
hey new woodworker. I’ve only been doing this for three years, although I’ve been doing it pretty regularly during that time…with some time off for pesky house construction projects, like porch, deck, garden shed, french doors in the first year or so. I have spent a fair bit on tools and wood which I am fortunate to be able to do. Did it gradually, and some craigslist finds, but in three years I am shocked if I remember what I might have predicted. Lots of books, online videos, advice from Marc! and a willingness to jump in. Just before starting I designed a web site for a absolutely amazing talented designer and woodworker, http://www.williamwellsfurniture.com which gave me a vision of the possibilities. In my graphics life I’ve worked with stunningly talents designers and artists which helps set the bar high. I Begin with high standards, but I am very willing to learn from mistakes. It helps to have some perfectionist genes, but for many they inhibit trying. Check out others projects, work on the little skills, and take things small step at a time. “Beginnings are important.” One of my favorite SBMS mottos.
Drop dead gorgeous.
Well done.
Beautiful design and craftsmanship on this piece . I like how you laid out the dovetails for the drawers. Very cool look to them .
So few adjectives that haven’t already been said… I’ll try superb!!
Wonderful blend of hand tool and power tool work. Hand cut dovetails with a Gramercy Bow Saw is quite impressive. I love the wood type combination. You’ve used top drawer woods. Bubinga on the outside, mahogany on the inside, and paduk legs and drawer pulls. Sort of a who’s who of woods for furniture construction.
I’m glad you didn’t use a face frame in your design. I think it would have really taken away from the looks. Great looking finished product!
Tom
Beautiful Work of Art!
Well done
Joe
Sorry if this post is ineligible. I don’t know if my keyboard will work after all the drool I just got on it from looking at your sideboard. Great job!!!
if you have keyboard trouble just be sure to use the proper hammer. I’m sure Christopher Schwarz could recommend the correct persuasion device.
Sweet
looks good
very well done
Wow man that’s awesome! Excellent work! I really liked all the extra pics on your website too, very cool!
I am a newbie to woodworking and I am in awe of this website and the beautiful work being produced. Congratulations.
Very beautifully done. Take that as you will from a beginning woodworker. :) As everyone else has said, the wood figure is fantastic and you really brought that out in your design. I appreciate the beauty in the simplicity of the face design and overall architecture. I compliments the complexity of the figure well. I also admire your dovetails and that you did not default to making them all have equal spacing (something I might have done, being a beginner).
Looking at your drawer slides, am I right in assuming that you refrained from using any metal hardware at all? or are there some concealed screws here and there? (I will not think less of you if there are ;) this is purely academic)
also, about how many hours would you say this took you to build? I’m just trying to get an idea of how long such an endeavor might take.
once again, gorgeous piece.
- Eric
*no hardware at all apart from the hinges. that’s what i meant to say.
Hey Eric, Besides the hinges I also used screws to hold the back upper molding strip which secures the back slats. Slats are set into grooves up and down with ship lapped sides. The screws allow me to remove the back for repairs/adjustments. The three lower drawers use wooden runners which are screwed into a shallow stopped groove on vertical dividers. Matching grooves on drawer sides slide onto the wooden runners. This approach allows me to float the drawers in the space without the need for horizontal dividers. Newer quality metal drawer slides are great for utility work like kitchen cabinets but don’t suit my taste for “fine” furniture. I like avoiding use of metal/store bought materials when possible unless it is a mixed materials type piece, which I haven’t gotten to yet. Perhaps some day. Nice when you can make the “hardware.” Haven’t gotten to wooden hinges yet. Perhaps some day.
I worked on this about 4-1/2 months. Which was mover winter so pace somewhat impacted by winter rains. My garage workshop is filled to the brim, so I have to roll carts and tools out in oder to work. Great when weather is nice. Not so good during rainy spells…like this week.
Tom – I am a few hours from Santa Barbara – I was not aware of your wood supplier until you mentioned it – can you tell me the price per board foot you got for that lovely bubinga? How was the selection of woods and prices?
Hello Tom, bubinga is from Soboba, 15 Anacapa Street, just half block up from the beach near the wharf. Great location! He has very nice selection of the basic domestic woods as well as wide range of exotics. Good range of sizes. Not racks and racks of the same material. Sort of a boutique selection in the funk zone. Prices not cheap I suspect but it is local and I can pick through board by board. He’ll cut off several feet of something with no price adjustment. When I started out he’d joint an edge for me if I wanted at no extra charge. Owner is yet another “Tom.” I paid $400 for a 10 foot and one 5 foot boards of the incredible 4/4 x 10″ (it was $12.95 per board foot). Which I believe is what he charges for his basic Bubinga. For this project I bought perhaps another $250 of less showy Bubinga (still had nice figure) as well as the Padauk and drawer materials. I am sure he gets his material from a Los Angeles distributor. So if you are two hours south you can probably find many sources. If you are two hours north, perhaps you should check him out. If in SB area and you’d like a shop tour or to talk wood let me know. You can contact through TWW Community pages, or check http://www.tombuhl.com for contact info. Google finds me readily.
Stuff this good just makes me mutter “I made a birdhouse” and slink away like the utter hack that I am… by all of which I mean: “excellent work!”
Awesome. Absolutely awesome.
The wood is freakin’ beautiful. I’d be afraid to cut something like that. You did a great job turning into something very nice though.
Jason mentioned the door panels being flush with frames. As I commented, they are slightly “below” frame surface. I think if they were literally flush they might actually appear to be proud. I made some test pieces with raised panel. Which I thought looked cool (my first attempt at using table saw to shape) and was very proud. My wife gasped in horror. She loathes the kitchen cabinet raised panel look. Not sure what in her childhood brings that out, but as she is so supportive of my woodworking I have to respect that sensibility. At least in this case I have to say I’m glad I made panels as I did. They work. Sometimes I’ll do inset panels, but so far, no raised panels.
This piece is absolutely beautiful.
Tom -
The sideboard is a beautiful piece. Most Bubinga pieces one sees, are slab tabletops or veneers but you have complete casework and joinery in Solid Bubinga. Can you comment about this material versus domestic hardwoods?
I am especially curious about the glue used – and/or special steps taken. I love the look of the wood at the dealer, and the price is not so bad but I find myself a little scared of it.
Hi Dave, I was pretty shocked to see this level of figure on solid boards. Even more amazing was that I was in the wood store and saw three of these 10″ x 10′ boards and seeing a customer loading a truck. Next day I returned and saw that he only took 1-1/2 of those sweet boards. So I snapped ‘em up. I used basic white glue for some of the big glue ups for longer work time. Yellow glue for quicker steps. Didn’t seem to be a problem. Bubinga is VERY heavy. And nasty of steel edges. I foolisly used a nice, new, expensive paring chisel for some early work. Edge folded right over! Went to my Lee Valley plastic handle bench chisels from that point on. I read a review that marked these down for their fat edges and a few other things, but they did not that edge held sharpness very well. Even so I sharpened very often. I’ve talked to friend who loathes Bubinga for its nasty slivers. Didn’t have any trouble, but I was forwarned. No special steps other than frequent sharpening and patience.
Awsome project, thanks for providing so many pictures on your website.
And thanks for showing the mirror, great idea to keep an eye on the cut from behind.
Beautiful.
GNARLY!! or should I say “BURLEY”!!! Very beautiful… I dream of making something half as pretty. {SIGH}
OMG that is some amazing craftsmenship, You do very good work. Thank you for shareing this with us.