Here’s another beautiful Jewelry Box submitted by Bob:
When I introduced myself on the site, I said I was working on a jewelry box for my daughter. Well, after about 20 hours and a lot of mistakes because I made it up as I went, here it is. I looked at a lot of pictures on the web and formulated my own plan with ideas from a lot of them and of course my daughter’s input. Thanks again for the great site!
The piece is made of solid red oak except for the drawer bottoms and lid inlay which are 1/4″ oak ply. The construction is actually very simple. The main case is made with a dado on the sides so that the end grain is only showing from the back. The front false drawer sits in a stopped dado and has a 1/2″ roundover to match the drawer fronts. The drawers are constructed using a homemade drawer lock joint for a lack of better terminology, and have 1/4″ dadoes cut in the sides to ride on oak runners glued to the inside of the case. The dividers are just cut-offs that I planed down to 1/8″ to match the kerf of one of my blades which was used to cut interlocking slots. The top was made about 2″ deep so that I had plenty of room for padding and velvet fabric plus a mirror that was epoxied on. I would like to give credit for that idea, but I can’t remember where I saw it. I then made a base from some scrap pieces of oak flooring, mitered the corners, cut rabbet for the case to sit in and rounded the corners. Stained and poly all parts and glued it up. Added some knobs and handles and put a done stamp on it. The finished piece measures around 20″w x 12″d x 10″h. I didn’t have any plans to go by, I just made it up as I went. Again, I want to express my sincere appreciation for the great things you do for tthe woodworking community. I have learned so much from your site and it is inspiring.










12 Responses to “Bob’s Jewelry Box – Viewer Project”
So many nice jewelry boxes.
I hope to have some box-building time this weekend.
Fantastic job! I’m working on a jewelry box for my wife and I’m about to start creating the dividers. How did you plane your dividers — with a hand plane, or with a benchtop planer?
Beautiful work!
For my jewelery box I used my planer. It worked well.
Thanks for the kindness Eric. I used a Delta 12 1/2″ thickness planer for the dividers. I know the instructions say 3/16″ min but I never follow directions!
Take the last couple passes at 1/64″ and it works great.
I cant speak for someone elses planer, but my Delta shopmaster did it. Don’t do it if you aren’t comfortable with it. The only reason for the 1/8″ is that’s my blade kerf and it made cutting the interlocking slots easier. If you have any other questions, feel free to e-mail me
hscrewdude@comcast.net
P.S. Good luck with your project. I hope to see pics when it’s finished.
Bob
Nice looking and well made. I think your jewelry box will be around a long, long time. An Heirloom.
Thanks Dean! It is very solid and I hope your right. I would love to see it passed down.
Hey Bob. Ah, to own a planer… That’s my very next purchase. I liked your box – a lot of space for stuff and a mirror to boot. The whole thing looks very solid. I’ll bet the lining was tough to do. It looks great.
Hey Jeff.Yes, it’s nice to have a planer, but talking the wife into it was not as fun. LOL The lining was the worst part. Next one I will try flocking. I already have requests for three more similar units with some mods to each. Time to start brainstorming again as I don’t uuse plans. I fly by the seat of my pants so to speak. Thanks for the compliment and It’s always nice to hear from fellow woodworkers. I learn a lot from you guys.
Beautiful box you made Bob,
I’m in the process of doing a tea box and your way of planning the divider will help me a lot… I was wondering how to do, thanks for sharing.
I use a Delta Shopmaster portable planer. Although it is only rated to plane down to 3/16″, I went down to 1/8″ anways. On the last couple passes, I took very small bites, around 1/64″. The 1/8″ thickness is only due to the fact that this is the kerf of the TS blade I’m using.
Make sure to measure your kerf by running a piece through the blade on end half the width of the dividers you plan on using. This will simulate cutting the slots in the dividers. Now measure the kerf on the piece you just cut and plane your wood to that thickness. This method will acommodate and wobble or run-out in your blade compared to it’s advertised kerf if that makes sense. I am by no means tellin you to ignore your planer specs and plane thinner than recommended. Never do something you are not comfortable with or feel safe with. I hope this helps. If you have any other questions, you can E-Mail me at hscrewdude@comcast.net. Good luck with your project.
Dear Sir,
That is good article as a husband to make it for your honey.
Any good art jewelry boxes are made in my co.ltd for your reference if you are favorite.
Reply will be appreciated!
Best Regards!
Banny
The jewelry box looks amazing. I have a few questions, if you wouldn’t mind helping me with. I am a beginner taking on a watch box project with a similar idea. Are the dividers glued together in the grid form using overlap joints with a little wood glue? Or how do they hold on to one another? Is the grid free in the box or did you glue it down some way? Thanks again. I appreciate the inspiration and help.