Actually, this is pretty much what started running through my head when I was watching the torsion box projects recently. I may have to try this when it some time to take my Workbench Rite Of Passage.

I plan to use two 2X2X.125 rails on both sides for dogs, and make an adjustable fence(s) to cross the table to clamp things in the field of the table if necessary – leaving the field flat and I like the masonite idea. I originally thought of making two surfaces on a sheet that I cound flip over – but after rethinking, expansion make make a potato chip out of it and defeat the purpose. I’m still designing it – so any advice would be cool….

Thanks again.

One thing you may want to take into account before you commit yourself to mounting the vise screws below the torsion box is that this could result in vise jaws that are too tall. that is the distance from the top of the vise screw to the top of the jaw is too far. Resulting in a jaw that is subject to breaking easily.

Fir ought to work just fine. I might use something harder. Also, I typed up my responses to you questions earlier so quickly I did not catch my spell checker had changed fir to furr.

Regarding #9, the KD HF refers to a kiln dried Hem Fir that is inexpensive and readily available. Being kiln dried, and inside the torsion box that would be sealed with laquer, I was hoping that this cheaper wood could substitute for the blocks of 1-1/2″ walnut that you used for the dog hole reinforcements.

For those of us without an available supply of bridge timbers, is there anything else that you would suggest for the dog hole reinforcement blocks? I was also thinking about mounting the vise under the bottom of the torsion box and (I think) through the oversized apron-assuming that I do this in phases.

Thanks again,

Roland

1) Yes, the bench can be built in phases. With that said, I would be concerned that the torsion box may get damaged if the edge was left unprotected for too long. Additionally, due to the problems presented by adding vises to this type of top your planning must be impeccable.

2) The torsion box is a full 7” thick. Although, if your apron is thick enough material I see no reason why one could not do as you have suggested. In my case I took into account all of the pros and cons to each option and decided making the top a full 7” thick would best suit my needs.

3) If you look at Marc’s Assembly Table video you will notice he used ½” and ¾” MDF. Please do not read anything into what I used in my top because I was limited. The suppliers in my area do not stock ½” MDF. Therefore, I used only ¾” MDF. I would suggest using ¾” for the top, bottom and perimeter and ½” for everything else. Reduce the weight wherever you can, within reason.

4) It depends on whether or not you are going to make the torsion box the same thickness as the height of your jaws. More specifically, if the path of the vise screw is going to travel through the torsion box, as opposed to under it I would advise you to get the vises in advance. You can get the specs on a vise in advance but in my experience that is not a replacement for having the hardware on hand because far too often something is not taken into account or the specs are incorrect in some minor way that results in a big change in the plan. If you plan to make the torsion box thinner than the wrap and the vise screw will travel beneath the torsion box having the vises in advance is far less important.

5) Yes, ¼” hardboard.

6) No, I used ¾” MDF. All that is available in my area is ¾” MDF. Absent my MDF supply limitations I would still use ¾” MDF for the top and bottom of the torsion box.

7) The reason for the solid wood blocks is because the dogs extend below the MDF when installed and if I understand your question correctly the use of ply instead of MDF would not solve the problem. The forces exerted on the bench dog without the blocking would cause the dog move too much in the hole and result in a worming out of the hole and ultimately ruining the top. Now that does not mean one couldn’t use something else other than solid wood. For example you could laminate MDF but I did not because I wanted the dogs to have the end-grain to react against. My thought was that the end-grain does not compact as easily. Therefore, the blocks were installed in my top so the grain is oriented to correspond with the direction the vises travel.

8) Hopefully it will suffice to say the vise screws travel through the cell walls of the torsion box top. Additionally, vises generally come with instructions for installation and I believe it is safe to say the instructions will not cover the installation in my situation. This is why I believe it to be incredibly important to have the vises and take all of the requirements of your vise into consideration when constructing the top if you intend for the vise screw to travel through the torsion box. I am unfortunately doubtful this written explanation will be very helpful.

9) Unfortunately I do not know for certain what you mean by “KD HF” but I would not use 2×4 material if you are referring to pine, furr, pressure treated, cedar or redwood 2×4. Please clarify the question if I misunderstood.

10) No, unfortunately I cannot provide what does not exist. Unless it is a commissioned piece I do not generate a plans. All of the plans for projects built for myself or family exist only in my head. Somewhat like building on the fly.

I hope this helps.

I was about to finally start on a basic torsion box thinking that in the future, I could use the basic box to help with the construction of my ultimate workbench. After seeing your dressed up workbench/assembly table, I am trying to figure out if I can start on the basic box and then dress it up if I can get some more info about your bench. I have a million questions, here are the first ones that I can think of:

1) Can the bench be built in phases like; basic torsion box, dressed up apron and top, then vises?

2) Is the torsion box a full 7 inches or is the box about 3 like Marc’s and the apron is oversized?

3) Did you use mdf under the fancier stuff and if so, what size for the top and bottom and what size for the stringers?

4) Did you add the vises later as your project evolved or is it important to buy the vises first and study their requirements?

5) I see a comment that the top is hardboard, is that 1/4″?

6) Is that over a 1/2″ mdf top?

7) Do you think that using plywood for the top and bottom might add enough strength to eliminate the requirement for the blocks of solid hardwood?

8) Can you detail how you installed the vises?

9) Do you think that blocks of KD HF like the 2×4 material could be used for the reinforcement blocks for the dog holes and also to help support the vises?

10) I guess my first question should have been,”Can you give us or sell us some detailed plans for your bench?”

Thanks in advance for any help you can provide!

Roland

Pat