Comments on: Advice for Rust Prevention- Question of the Week http://thewoodwhisperer.com/advice-for-rust-prevention-question-of-the-week/ Just another WordPress weblog Sat, 31 Jul 2010 02:59:13 +0000 http://wordpress.org/?v=abc hourly 1 By: Dean S http://thewoodwhisperer.com/advice-for-rust-prevention-question-of-the-week/#comment-54117 Dean S Mon, 08 Feb 2010 13:56:30 +0000 http://thewoodwhisperer.com/?p=153#comment-54117 Parts of Canada are SO cold, even rust will choose not to visit there!! Parts of Canada are SO cold, even rust will choose not to visit there!!

]]> By: Al http://thewoodwhisperer.com/advice-for-rust-prevention-question-of-the-week/#comment-19145 Al Sat, 23 Feb 2008 23:51:53 +0000 http://thewoodwhisperer.com/?p=153#comment-19145 Well, I don't know if anyone comes back this far to read these since I am about a year behind. However, I learned a long time ago to use a gun bluing kit to protect my cast iron surfaces. You can get them at any sporting goods stores that sell firearms. Make sure that all of your surface rust has been removed and follow the directions on the kit on prepping the surface and bluing it. Once dried I put on a couple coats of paste wax and polished it. This protected the surface for many years. I had to occasionally re wax it. It was also slippery so the wok piece would slide easily Well, I don’t know if anyone comes back this far to read these since I am about a year behind. However, I learned a long time ago to use a gun bluing kit to protect my cast iron surfaces. You can get them at any sporting goods stores that sell firearms. Make sure that all of your surface rust has been removed and follow the directions on the kit on prepping the surface and bluing it. Once dried I put on a couple coats of paste wax and polished it. This protected the surface for many years. I had to occasionally re wax it. It was also slippery so the wok piece would slide easily

]]> By: Kyle Barton http://thewoodwhisperer.com/advice-for-rust-prevention-question-of-the-week/#comment-2104 Kyle Barton Thu, 29 Mar 2007 21:30:08 +0000 http://thewoodwhisperer.com/?p=153#comment-2104 Corrosion X also works very well and is a lubricant. It was developed for Military/Industrial applications, is used widely in the boating world, and is just now coming to the attention of the woodworking world. I am not related to the company, just an avid boater and woodworker. For more information see this link: http://www.corrosionx.com/hd.html Corrosion X also works very well and is a lubricant. It was developed for Military/Industrial applications, is used widely in the boating world, and is just now coming to the attention of the woodworking world. I am not related to the company, just an avid boater and woodworker. For more information see this link: http://www.corrosionx.com/hd.html

]]> By: Mitchell http://thewoodwhisperer.com/advice-for-rust-prevention-question-of-the-week/#comment-1988 Mitchell Fri, 23 Mar 2007 13:43:41 +0000 http://thewoodwhisperer.com/?p=153#comment-1988 I live in Toronto, Canada – in a condo. My tool cabinet lives on my balcony 12 months a year. While most Americans think that we ski up here in July, and feed our polar bears in August, the reality here is that our weather goes through the same cycles as Buffalo or Boston. Ok, maybe a little more extreme, but close. I do woodworking almost 12 months a year on that balcony, usually on the tool cabinet (luckily, I share a full shop at a friend’s home). To protect the tools year round I spray them all down with WD-40 four times a year. It is a bit of a pain in the butt to have to wipe down the tools with a rag soaked in Varsol every time I want to use it, and respray it before putting it away, but not one of my tools have a spot of rust on them. I think (he says cockily) that it is all in the maintenance. Any good tool worth having is a piece of art, both in design, and in execution. It should be treated accordingly, even if it is locked up in a cabinet, outside, in -10 degrees weather. I live in Toronto, Canada – in a condo. My tool cabinet lives on my balcony 12 months a year. While most Americans think that we ski up here in July, and feed our polar bears in August, the reality here is that our weather goes through the same cycles as Buffalo or Boston. Ok, maybe a little more extreme, but close. I do woodworking almost 12 months a year on that balcony, usually on the tool cabinet (luckily, I share a full shop at a friend’s home). To protect the tools year round I spray them all down with WD-40 four times a year. It is a bit of a pain in the butt to have to wipe down the tools with a rag soaked in Varsol every time I want to use it, and respray it before putting it away, but not one of my tools have a spot of rust on them. I think (he says cockily) that it is all in the maintenance. Any good tool worth having is a piece of art, both in design, and in execution. It should be treated accordingly, even if it is locked up in a cabinet, outside, in -10 degrees weather.

]]> By: Jim http://thewoodwhisperer.com/advice-for-rust-prevention-question-of-the-week/#comment-1979 Jim Thu, 22 Mar 2007 04:10:43 +0000 http://thewoodwhisperer.com/?p=153#comment-1979 WD40 is not an ideal product to clean the cast iron. The liquid portion of the product never fully evaporates and thus traps corrosive mineral deposits between the porous cast iron surface and a thin coating of the WD40 liquid. The surface should be cleaned with mineral spirits and 600 grit wet/dry paper. Next, wipe the mineral spirits from the surface. Clean the surface with acetone. The acetone dries almost on contact and does not allow any moisture to remain on the surface. Since the cast iron is porous it is important to heat the surface so that the wax is able to flow into the minute pores of the metal. Heat a 12 x 12" section with a propane torch or a heat lamp until it gets hot enough to liquefy the wax on contact. Be sure not to stand directly over the wax to avoid breathing in the vaporized material. Repeat this procedure until the entire surface has received a coating of wax. Allow the surface to cool for 20 minutes and then buff off any hazy residue. This should keep away rust for a reasonable amount of time but more frequent waxing may be required depending on your own pattern of usage. Typically, the best method of fending off rust on a cast iron deck is to use it every day as the constant burnishing of materials moving across the surface creates a natural polishing action. It still needs to be waxed but usually only once a month during the most humid of summer months. WD40 is not an ideal product to clean the cast iron. The liquid portion of the product never fully evaporates and thus traps corrosive mineral deposits between the porous cast iron surface and a thin coating of the WD40 liquid. The surface should be cleaned with mineral spirits and 600 grit wet/dry paper. Next, wipe the mineral spirits from the surface. Clean the surface with acetone. The acetone dries almost on contact and does not allow any moisture to remain on the surface. Since the cast iron is porous it is important to heat the surface so that the wax is able to flow into the minute pores of the metal. Heat a 12 x 12″ section with a propane torch or a heat lamp until it gets hot enough to liquefy the wax on contact. Be sure not to stand directly over the wax to avoid breathing in the vaporized material. Repeat this procedure until the entire surface has received a coating of wax. Allow the surface to cool for 20 minutes and then buff off any hazy residue. This should keep away rust for a reasonable amount of time but more frequent waxing may be required depending on your own pattern of usage. Typically, the best method of fending off rust on a cast iron deck is to use it every day as the constant burnishing of materials moving across the surface creates a natural polishing action. It still needs to be waxed but usually only once a month during the most humid of summer months.

]]> By: thewoodwhisperer http://thewoodwhisperer.com/advice-for-rust-prevention-question-of-the-week/#comment-1972 thewoodwhisperer Thu, 22 Mar 2007 00:20:10 +0000 http://thewoodwhisperer.com/?p=153#comment-1972 The main reason not to dry sand is the performance of the sandpaper. The rust will quickly clog the paper without lubricant. And you can use just about anything other than water as a lubricant. Mineral spirits comes to mind. I use WD-40 because it doesnt evaporate and its pretty cheap compared to the higher quality lubricants. The main reason not to dry sand is the performance of the sandpaper. The rust will quickly clog the paper without lubricant. And you can use just about anything other than water as a lubricant. Mineral spirits comes to mind. I use WD-40 because it doesnt evaporate and its pretty cheap compared to the higher quality lubricants.

]]> By: Stan Armstrong http://thewoodwhisperer.com/advice-for-rust-prevention-question-of-the-week/#comment-1946 Stan Armstrong Wed, 21 Mar 2007 17:13:38 +0000 http://thewoodwhisperer.com/?p=153#comment-1946 Given the general advice to avoid using WD-40 near wood due to finishing problems, I am puzzled about why you use it at all here. Why not just dry sand, or if you insist on making mud, use a different lubricant? Given the general advice to avoid using WD-40 near wood due to finishing problems, I am puzzled about why you use it at all here. Why not just dry sand, or if you insist on making mud, use a different lubricant?

]]> By: Scott http://thewoodwhisperer.com/advice-for-rust-prevention-question-of-the-week/#comment-1941 Scott Wed, 21 Mar 2007 16:26:55 +0000 http://thewoodwhisperer.com/?p=153#comment-1941 Thanks, Marc! I actually left all of my stationary power tools in storage in Monterey, CA. I smeared a heavy coat of cosmoline on all of the bare metal surfaces, and I'm hoping for the best when I see them again after 3 years in a non-climate-controlled warehouse in the salt air. Thanks, Marc! I actually left all of my stationary power tools in storage in Monterey, CA. I smeared a heavy coat of cosmoline on all of the bare metal surfaces, and I’m hoping for the best when I see them again after 3 years in a non-climate-controlled warehouse in the salt air.

]]> By: thewoodwhisperer http://thewoodwhisperer.com/advice-for-rust-prevention-question-of-the-week/#comment-1892 thewoodwhisperer Wed, 21 Mar 2007 05:23:16 +0000 http://thewoodwhisperer.com/?p=153#comment-1892 Hey Scott. That treatment would work great on a plane. When removing the rust though, i would probably progress through to the highest grit paper I could find (probably 2000), since looks count for something on a LN plane. I actually treat all of my hand tools with T-9 to prevent rust. And if you are traveling, put on a heavy coat and just put it away. Dont wipe off the excess. You will be very pleased with the results. Hey Scott. That treatment would work great on a plane. When removing the rust though, i would probably progress through to the highest grit paper I could find (probably 2000), since looks count for something on a LN plane.
I actually treat all of my hand tools with T-9 to prevent rust. And if you are traveling, put on a heavy coat and just put it away. Dont wipe off the excess. You will be very pleased with the results.

]]> By: Scott http://thewoodwhisperer.com/advice-for-rust-prevention-question-of-the-week/#comment-1890 Scott Wed, 21 Mar 2007 05:13:01 +0000 http://thewoodwhisperer.com/?p=153#comment-1890 Marc, Will the same treatment regimen work for cast iron planes? I wrapped one of mine in my work gloves for the trip from California to Germany when I moved here (I'm in the military) and I now have a Lie Nielson block plane with some "character." Needless to say, I would like to get it back to its original glory and keep it that way. Marc,

Will the same treatment regimen work for cast iron planes? I wrapped one of mine in my work gloves for the trip from California to Germany when I moved here (I’m in the military) and I now have a Lie Nielson block plane with some “character.” Needless to say, I would like to get it back to its original glory and keep it that way.

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