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	<title>Comments on: A Better Way to Apply Spar Urethane?</title>
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	<link>http://thewoodwhisperer.com/a-better-way-to-apply-spar-urethane/</link>
	<description>Education and Entertainment for the modern woodworker.</description>
	<lastBuildDate>Fri, 10 Feb 2012 01:26:34 +0000</lastBuildDate>
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		<title>By: thewoodwhisperer</title>
		<link>http://thewoodwhisperer.com/a-better-way-to-apply-spar-urethane/#comment-142604</link>
		<dc:creator>thewoodwhisperer</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 09 Feb 2012 14:07:45 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://thewoodwhisperer.com/?p=129#comment-142604</guid>
		<description>Unfortunately, if it were my door, I would sand it back down. It is important to get as much of that finish off the surface as possible for not only appearance, but bonding. So that little patch could very well create even bigger problems in the future. It might not.....but it might... Either way, varnish isn&#039;t really going to completely cover that up at all so it really should be corrected. But, the varnish could very well make it a little less noticeable. So it might be worth a try to simply add one coat and see what it looks like.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Unfortunately, if it were my door, I would sand it back down. It is important to get as much of that finish off the surface as possible for not only appearance, but bonding. So that little patch could very well create even bigger problems in the future. It might not&#8230;..but it might&#8230; Either way, varnish isn&#8217;t really going to completely cover that up at all so it really should be corrected. But, the varnish could very well make it a little less noticeable. So it might be worth a try to simply add one coat and see what it looks like.</p>
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	<item>
		<title>By: Carolyn</title>
		<link>http://thewoodwhisperer.com/a-better-way-to-apply-spar-urethane/#comment-142414</link>
		<dc:creator>Carolyn</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 08 Feb 2012 22:14:21 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://thewoodwhisperer.com/?p=129#comment-142414</guid>
		<description>Hello, nice site and great help!

So I hired someone to refinish my wood exterior door, and the problem I&#039;m having is best shown on the following picture:

http://www.imgplace.com/viewimg205/6624/46door.jpg

See those raised blotches in the horizontal part between the indented squares?  Blotches like that are on various parts of the door.

There is no varnish on the door at this point.  The coating you see in the picture is three coats of Minwax gel stain applied to partially sanded door.

While I think the blotches are from a bad sand job (finish not completely removed in places where the raised blotches appear), the person who tried to refinish the door claims that the old finish &quot;just wouldn&#039;t come off.&quot;

Anyway, now I am stuck trying to figure out what to do with this door.  So to my questions...

Is there any type of varnish that will fill-in/float-out these raised blotches so you don&#039;t see them?  Or should this door be sanded again?  If so, that would bee this door third sand.  Is that too many?

Thank in advance for answering.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hello, nice site and great help!</p>
<p>So I hired someone to refinish my wood exterior door, and the problem I&#8217;m having is best shown on the following picture:</p>
<p><a href="http://www.imgplace.com/viewimg205/6624/46door.jpg" rel="nofollow">http://www.imgplace.com/viewimg205/6624/46door.jpg</a></p>
<p>See those raised blotches in the horizontal part between the indented squares?  Blotches like that are on various parts of the door.</p>
<p>There is no varnish on the door at this point.  The coating you see in the picture is three coats of Minwax gel stain applied to partially sanded door.</p>
<p>While I think the blotches are from a bad sand job (finish not completely removed in places where the raised blotches appear), the person who tried to refinish the door claims that the old finish &#8220;just wouldn&#8217;t come off.&#8221;</p>
<p>Anyway, now I am stuck trying to figure out what to do with this door.  So to my questions&#8230;</p>
<p>Is there any type of varnish that will fill-in/float-out these raised blotches so you don&#8217;t see them?  Or should this door be sanded again?  If so, that would bee this door third sand.  Is that too many?</p>
<p>Thank in advance for answering.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: Ryan</title>
		<link>http://thewoodwhisperer.com/a-better-way-to-apply-spar-urethane/#comment-141721</link>
		<dc:creator>Ryan</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 07 Feb 2012 03:32:49 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://thewoodwhisperer.com/?p=129#comment-141721</guid>
		<description>OK. I will check out that video.
Thank you Sir!</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>OK. I will check out that video.<br />
Thank you Sir!</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: thewoodwhisperer</title>
		<link>http://thewoodwhisperer.com/a-better-way-to-apply-spar-urethane/#comment-141116</link>
		<dc:creator>thewoodwhisperer</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 05 Feb 2012 02:50:21 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://thewoodwhisperer.com/?p=129#comment-141116</guid>
		<description>Hey Ryan. You should be fine diluting Varathane with mineral spirits and then topcoating danish oil. They are all compatible finishes. Just give the Danish oil a day or two to cure up. Keep in mind that this mix has no raw oil in it, so it will tack up faster than something like Danish oil. You can certainly flood the surface and then wipe off the excess, but I personally like to wipe it on with a folded rag. And like you mentioned, it is similar to the actions when you use a brush (overlapping strokes). This is actually a technique that I cover in detail in my DVD (also available as a digital download): http://twwstore.com/techniques/a-simple-varnish-finish-dvd/</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hey Ryan. You should be fine diluting Varathane with mineral spirits and then topcoating danish oil. They are all compatible finishes. Just give the Danish oil a day or two to cure up. Keep in mind that this mix has no raw oil in it, so it will tack up faster than something like Danish oil. You can certainly flood the surface and then wipe off the excess, but I personally like to wipe it on with a folded rag. And like you mentioned, it is similar to the actions when you use a brush (overlapping strokes). This is actually a technique that I cover in detail in my DVD (also available as a digital download): <a href="http://twwstore.com/techniques/a-simple-varnish-finish-dvd/" rel="nofollow">http://twwstore.com/techniques.....inish-dvd/</a></p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: Ryan Allen</title>
		<link>http://thewoodwhisperer.com/a-better-way-to-apply-spar-urethane/#comment-141044</link>
		<dc:creator>Ryan Allen</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 04 Feb 2012 20:03:29 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://thewoodwhisperer.com/?p=129#comment-141044</guid>
		<description>Hello,

I want to start buy saying this website is awesome!
I am making a basement bar out of Hard Maple(i have the bar top done, so the question only applies to the skin and the trim...all is Maple). I wanted a Natural look, so i applied Watco Danish Oils instead of a stain. I looks really good so far. I noticed that you advise wiping the Poly with a 50/50 mineral spirts mix. 
Will it be OK to mix Varathane (Oil Based/Interior) Polyurethane at a 50/50 mix with Mineral Spirts and apply a few coats over the Danish Oil? If it is, do i apply it in circle motion and rub it in using very thin coats? or do i drag it in straight overlapping line similar like brushing it on? I am confused on the applying technique.

Thank you a ton!

Ryan</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hello,</p>
<p>I want to start buy saying this website is awesome!<br />
I am making a basement bar out of Hard Maple(i have the bar top done, so the question only applies to the skin and the trim&#8230;all is Maple). I wanted a Natural look, so i applied Watco Danish Oils instead of a stain. I looks really good so far. I noticed that you advise wiping the Poly with a 50/50 mineral spirts mix.<br />
Will it be OK to mix Varathane (Oil Based/Interior) Polyurethane at a 50/50 mix with Mineral Spirts and apply a few coats over the Danish Oil? If it is, do i apply it in circle motion and rub it in using very thin coats? or do i drag it in straight overlapping line similar like brushing it on? I am confused on the applying technique.</p>
<p>Thank you a ton!</p>
<p>Ryan</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: thewoodwhisperer</title>
		<link>http://thewoodwhisperer.com/a-better-way-to-apply-spar-urethane/#comment-139619</link>
		<dc:creator>thewoodwhisperer</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 01 Feb 2012 18:54:50 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://thewoodwhisperer.com/?p=129#comment-139619</guid>
		<description>7 days should be adequate. As for application, I generally don&#039;t do deck work so there are probably smarter options, but I would probably use a brush.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>7 days should be adequate. As for application, I generally don&#8217;t do deck work so there are probably smarter options, but I would probably use a brush.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: Rodrigues</title>
		<link>http://thewoodwhisperer.com/a-better-way-to-apply-spar-urethane/#comment-139614</link>
		<dc:creator>Rodrigues</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 01 Feb 2012 18:36:58 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://thewoodwhisperer.com/?p=129#comment-139614</guid>
		<description>The finish was applied 7 days ago. Is that long enough for curing?
Also, what is the best way to apply the Epifanes Marine Varnish on the deck surface?

I will try and let you know the results. 

You are the best!
Thank you again</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>The finish was applied 7 days ago. Is that long enough for curing?<br />
Also, what is the best way to apply the Epifanes Marine Varnish on the deck surface?</p>
<p>I will try and let you know the results. </p>
<p>You are the best!<br />
Thank you again</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: thewoodwhisperer</title>
		<link>http://thewoodwhisperer.com/a-better-way-to-apply-spar-urethane/#comment-139610</link>
		<dc:creator>thewoodwhisperer</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 01 Feb 2012 18:28:59 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://thewoodwhisperer.com/?p=129#comment-139610</guid>
		<description>As long as the previous finish is cured, you should be able to. Maybe rough up the surface a little with some 320 grit sandpaper before applying the varnish. Also, test on scrap or an inconspicuous area first to confirm that there are no adhesion issues and that you really like the way it looks.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>As long as the previous finish is cured, you should be able to. Maybe rough up the surface a little with some 320 grit sandpaper before applying the varnish. Also, test on scrap or an inconspicuous area first to confirm that there are no adhesion issues and that you really like the way it looks.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: Rodrigues</title>
		<link>http://thewoodwhisperer.com/a-better-way-to-apply-spar-urethane/#comment-139605</link>
		<dc:creator>Rodrigues</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 01 Feb 2012 18:15:12 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://thewoodwhisperer.com/?p=129#comment-139605</guid>
		<description>Hello, just finished a deck with Brazilian tiger wood. Looks great!
Used a Behr (home depot) semi-transparent sealant, but it is not glossy. Can I use the Epifanes Marine Varnish over it for a glossy finished look? Thanks for the advice. I am in the Central Florida Area of the country.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hello, just finished a deck with Brazilian tiger wood. Looks great!<br />
Used a Behr (home depot) semi-transparent sealant, but it is not glossy. Can I use the Epifanes Marine Varnish over it for a glossy finished look? Thanks for the advice. I am in the Central Florida Area of the country.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: thewoodwhisperer</title>
		<link>http://thewoodwhisperer.com/a-better-way-to-apply-spar-urethane/#comment-138609</link>
		<dc:creator>thewoodwhisperer</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 30 Jan 2012 02:13:10 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://thewoodwhisperer.com/?p=129#comment-138609</guid>
		<description>Its not really that soft. Just soft enough to be durable as opposed to hard and brittle. That&#039;s why varnish is generally one of the most durable finishes the average person has access to.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Its not really that soft. Just soft enough to be durable as opposed to hard and brittle. That&#8217;s why varnish is generally one of the most durable finishes the average person has access to.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
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