Hey, I’m not gonna email in a comment when I can pop one right in your blog! Right now you have blogger set up so that only someone with a blogger account can post a comment. So my first comment is to suggest you open that up so that others can comment and take advantage of link love between vlogs. Second, I want to say Hooray! Another vlogger in Phoenix, finally! I live here too. Do you know any other Phoenix vloggers? We should have a meetup. Third, great job! I haven’t done any woodworking since I made a keyholder in 7th grade shop, but I’ve got tools. So maybe your lessons will give me a push. Thanks for doing this!
Thanks for the link on WoodNet Forums. You have done a wonderful job putting the first video together. The music, titles, humor and content blend together very comfortably. Steady camera (tripod, I assume) contributes to the perception of professional production values. I’ll keep coming back to see what you develop next.
Hmmm, cool idea. I remember watching some of the PBS shows that had the traditional tools wood worker. I can’t remember the name. He didn’t use any eletronics just original tools.
I’m not a craftsperson but there is something about handmade furniture and art pieces that has a resonance with me.
Thanks for the feedback and the warm welcome everybody!! I really cant wait to get the more videos up there!!
I fixed the comment setting so now anyone can post. I am new to Blogger and didn’t realize the default setting limits posts to registered users only. Thats just bad for business. :)
I will get the next video up ASAP, that is if I can stop laughing in front of the camera.
I love your new vlog! How cool is that? You, of course, are handsome, articulate and intelligent. I can’t wait to see more! I am new to this vlog stuff, but if you make it easy for us wood hacks, then we will be sure to check in. Keep making sawdust and I will keep checking in. Best of luck!
The only other vlogger I know of locally is Israel from Izzy Video. I have a link to his site on my main page. He has some really awesome videos on digital video techniques and he really knows his stuff. Check him out at http://www.izzyvideo.com
I’m a truely beginner who’s not sure yet how far I will go with the hobby. I would like to hear more about the basic, inexpensive, small shop. Maybe show how you actually operate the shop using the workbench and the manual tools to create real projects and not just for fixing details of the ones you have done with the power stationary tools.
Great job and great idea. You are filling a void. It is really nice to see something like this. I am excited about project or task oriented episodes. I want to watch you go through the process of making different pieces.
All of us here at August Home Publishing (publishers of Woodsmith, ShopNotes, and Workbench) loved your Episode 2! I especially appreciated your intro as I could identify with you and my wife could probably identify with your wife!
Your cameraperson is very good (Is that your wife?). What kind of a camera are you using? The image on the screen is large and the audio level is perfect.
Most of all, I enjoy the fact that you are having fun and that is obvious. We’re working on some video projects here at August Home and need to bring in more of an “entertainment” value to them. Any secrets you want to share??
Keep the chips flying and try rubbing some padauk sawdust into that salad oil stain. It will give it a nice reddish appearance on your Bob Ross shirt,
Doug Hicks
Executive Editor and Vice President
August Home Publishing
Thanks for the great comments and suggestions everybody!
To answer Doug’s questions….
The camera is a panasonic pv-gs300 and the cameraperson is indeed my wife. And I have plentry of ideas on how to make videos “more entertaining”, but I cant tell them to you. :)
You want those secrets, you have to hire me. lol
Seriously though, I imagine its alot easier for me to make something funny simply because I dont have anyone to answer too if my humor is a bit off-color. I really do wish that more woodworking shows would have a sense of humor.
Are your upcoming videos about woodworking? Would love to get the details when you have them.
By the way, padauk is pretty much a 4-letter word on our laundry room. I only made that mistake once. lol
Some great setups in your shop, like the cyclone system, but I think your just being greedy with two bandsaws! I also thought the ‘kick off’ switch on your table saw was a great inovation.
I found it interesting during the episode, you would refer to your shop as in the garage. In Australia, we call it a shed! The great Aussie Shed is a thing to be proud of, and can even be officially declared such, by a guy who has written books on “The Great Aussie Shed”!
Anyway, I look forward to seeing future episodes and more inovative information.
Well done and best of luck,
GazAly
PS: I’ve found that if you leave your ear muffs on all the time and ignore SWMBO, she’ll eventually give up calling.
PPS: I think youve turned your neighbours place into a desert!
Wow! To imagine that I knew you before you were a PROFESSIONAL DORK! I know you work really hard in your quest for popularity, so I expect nothing except exceptional work!
Great stuff,I’ve watched the videos a couple of times now and cant wait for the next one ..The only sugestion I can make is to hurry up and film it,so I wont get dissapointed the next time I open your web site,only to find that it hasn’t changed since the last time I was here.(which happened to be yesterday).
Nice work Marc, the episode is looking really interesting. Your relationship with the chest is not what I’m into, BUT hey, live and let live I say :)
I think your appoach to show different topics as they come into your shop is a great idea. It will allow you to show your real abilities (and flaws LOL) rather than faking them slightly for the camera.
Ask and you shall receive. Although I can’t seem to get the file to link up. Let me check a few things and hopefully the hi res version will be up and rolling. Thanks!!
just wanted to say i think you are on to something really big and i think you will be on television within the next year, but keep up the good work i hope see more soon
My first wood shop project was a small bookshelf that was to hang on the wall. We needed to draw it in the 3 square, cut it, plane it, assemble it, and paint/stain it.
I started planing what was designed as the second shelf (14″ frame, second shelf 9″ above bottom shelf, sized for paperback books.), a 4″ wide pine board. Being a perfectionist, I checked for square every fifth stroke or so.
Four weeks later, I put the 1 1/2″ piece aside, and asked for another board. And I put the planed edge in the back, so you couldn’t tell that it *still* wasn’t square…
I agree – great job on everything so far. The voice-over in the beginning was especially nice, by the way. I always found it easier to understand David Marks when he did voice-overs as opposed to talking during the filming – it stands true here, as well.
I’m blessed with a mentor who is a bit older, has lots of woodworking experience under his belt, and does woodworking for a living. His shop is always open, which is helping me to overcome one of the bigger frustrations of woodworking in the beginning – the lack of tools needed to make woodworking more fun than hassle (especially when it comes to dimensioning lumber).
He’s good at sending me off in the right direction, but he also wants me to make my own mistakes and learn from them. Actually, he says I make my own challenges, too… (I still haven’t figured out if that’s a good thing or not.)
Anyway, my additional advice would be:
Don’t be afraid to make mistakes, especially if you can learn from them! After all, it’s just a piece of scrap wood! You didn’t really try that technique for the first time with your only piece of Cocobolo… did you? Oh, you did? Well… who wants a box that big anyway, right?
(Don’t be afraid to learn from OTHER woodworkers’ mistakes, as well!)
Thank you for the lessons! I find that I need to slow down in my wood working to study the peice more, so I can do a better job. Losing bad habits are very asentual in woodworking and learning the correct approach makes the difference! Thanks Marc
Marc, I just found your site. Fantastic! I’ve viewed every podcast at least once. I’m located in Melbourne, Australia, so find it really nice to be able to pick up some professional instruction via the net.
I would suggest to Steve that he make his shelving unit into three sections if visual appeal is important in his project.
I built an entire hallway of floor to ceiling shelves and having them roughly two feet wide looked great. If he does face frame them then having two vertical stiles for support and dividing the shelves into thirds visually would do the trick for strength and aesthetics.
I’ve made bookcases in different widths with no supports between the gables.
The widest one I’ve made has 86″ wide shelves and exhibits zero sag.
I make my stuff entirely out of MDF and never use screws or nails.
As you probably know, MDF has no grain and can’t support its own weight.
The trick is to use housed joints – such as dadoes and grooves.
The dadoes hold the board in place and prevent sag.
They don’t need to be all that deep – 1/8″ deep is fine – but with 3/4″ plywood, you can easily go 1/4″ deep.
I route dadoes and grooves into the gables and back for the shelves to fit into.
You’re best making a jig of some sort that will let you route to the exact thickness you’re dealing with – there are many variances in 3/4″ plywood.
Seeing you don’t want to introduce supports between the gables this is the only way to diminish/eliminate sag.
BUT – you’re gonna need another refinement.
The shelves might sag front-to-rear.
You’ll need to introduce a a face-frame on the shelves themselves to maximize rigidity.
This can be a pain using plywood but you can do loooong mitres on an accurately setup TS.
(It’s obviously more forgiving using MDF and painting it)
But just set the blade for an ACCURATE 45deg and just glue the bastards together.
I’ve done this on about 20 different bookcases without nails.
Works every time.
Marc, your show is awesome. DIY needs to give tools and techniques the boot and get the wood whisperer on there! I’ve checked out all the episodes, you really are doing a great job. I wasnt really digging this one though, I want to see you in the shop, you know…. MAKING SOMETHING! I just got one thing to say about this episode. Nozzle caps buddy. I think I need a better demonstration on how exactly these things work. I dont know how you (and Nicole) made it through that item!
True professionals, BRAVO! LMAO
Oh, I got a challenge for you. If you could someday get the legendary DJM to guest appear on the show, I…… well I dont know, but that would be insane!
Keep up the good work, and like one of the other comments said, keep doing us italians proud big guy!
Do you recommend any books on wood types? (Something that has good images of different types of wood along with information, such as ‘often used in mission style furniture’)
I actually planned on featuring this book in our Holiday Gift Guide, but had to cut it out because of time issues. But the book is an excellent reference and contains hundreds of color photos as well as descriptions and other information.
Thank you for such a quick response! Do you get credit if we purchase from the “new or used available” books (books that aren’t actually shipped by Amazon)?
Thats a very good question. I would guess that anything purchased under Amazon’s umbrella would count as a referral. I should email them to find out for sure. Thanks for bringing that up.
I just looked at all the fine print and it seems that third party vendors and sellers are treated the same as regular Amazon products. So it looks like you have the green light. I really appreciate you helping out the show. Take care.
I just found this site based on a suggestion from another message board. Episode 3 was just what I was looking for. I will be a frequenter of your site from now on.
Excellent! A comment though on the router table alternative for edge jointing – I lack a real jointer, as would likely be the case for somebody looking to use their router table for edge jointing. The problem I found using the shim method to offset the outfeed side is the same as a newbie may encounter using a jointer – in so far as technique with regard to pressure on the outfeed side. It’s easy to turn your piece into some weird parallelogram or diamond shape. Yes you’re essentially making a small jointer on it’s side, but there’s an even easier way than using a shim. Simply take your straight-edge and double-stick tape it to your workpiece. Then, using no technique whatsoever, or even any fence for that matter, simply run it along a bearing guided straight-bit for a perfectly flat, straight and perpindicular to the face joint in one pass.
Good show keep up the good work! Love the big resolution you post your shows to ITunes with. I was wondering why you couldn’t use that nice planner to plane both sides of that board you had? Where you just trying to give many different options to go about it or is a good reason for it? I have always been made to believe jointers were for the edges and planners for the face of the board.
Hi Tim. I am glad you are enjoying the high resolution podcasts.
I certainly could have just thrown that board through the planer, but remember that the goal is to get two perfectly flat and co-planer surfaces. If you don’t flatten one surface first, you wont be able to properly flatten the second surface on the planer.
For instance, that particular board I was working on had a twist to it. So the board would tip in different directions depending on where you apply pressure from above. So if I sent that board through the planer, it would have come out pretty wacky.
Now if you have a rough board that sits pretty stable and is relatively straight, you can sometimes get away with sending it right through the planer. But the proper method requires you to have a trued surface BEFORE it goes through the planer. In most cases, you can true a rough surface with the jointer. But since some boards won’t fit on the jointer, we need some other way to properly flatten one face before sending it through the planer. That’s what I was hoping my alternative would accomplish.
And whoever told you a jointer is only for edges and the planer is only for faces needs a smack on the hand. :) You can and should joint the face of your boards first on the jointer. As mentioned before, passing it through the planer may not give you a perfectly straight and flat board. To see proof of this, think about a 5 foot board that is a little bit bowed. You can send that guy through the planer 20 times and it will still have a bow in it. The only way to remove the bow is to joint one of the faces first.
And one last note, I sometimes use my planer to trim edges too. Especially if I am dealing with 8/4 material. After I joint the first edge, sometimes I find it easier to send it on end through the planer, instead of using the tablesaw. Works great!
I hope that clears things up a bit. If you have anymore questions, please feel free to email me.
Now that is some great advise. I think your spot on suggesting Watco or Waterlox. I have one further suggestion for Doug. Get three pieces of scrap and go through the entire finishing process with BLO, Watco(or Waterlox) as reccomended, and Poly(which will be rejected). Have your son pick the finish he wants after a few tests of glass rings, scratches and beer spills. It might change his mind.
I’m also new to woodworking. What about filling pores with a slurry of sawdust by wetsanding with Danish oil? I’ve heard this works but you have to wait a few days for the oil to dry/polymerize.
Hey Stan. I imagine you could use the Danish Oil pore-filling method, but I don’t think its the ideal option for repairs. It takes too long to dry and its messy. I generally prefer to make my repairs with quick-drying materials like CA glue, epoxy, and fillers. But I suppose if you were patient enough, the Danish Oil idea would technically work. Good luck!!
Timbermate waterbased wood filler is pretty good also. Comes in many different colors for pretty much any wood species. Its very stainable and it doesn’t shrink and crack. Only bad thing is it takes a long time to dry.
Did anybody but me notice that at the end of Marc’s latest show (A Cut Above, Part I) that TheWoodWhisperer.com was misspelled as TheWoodWhsiperer.com and the same mistake was on the e-mail address. Now, if I know Marc, he will blame this on the Missus. I enjoyed the show anyway!
minor spelling error on your last podcast about the cutting board.
The wood whsiperer is shown on the email address
good episode cant wait for the next!
I subscribe to your podcast through iTunes and enjoy them. But …
The cut you made today on the glued up layers of the cutting board is very dangerous. In every table saw book of safety procedures the tell you never to do this.
‘Never cut cross grain against the fence.’ (Try that on Google and see how many hits you get.)
Having said that, I done it a number of times. I always realize that it is not a safe cut and I brace myself and use a good push stick. The push stick you were using could only be described as ‘weenie’.
I’ve placed a crude picture here. ( http://www.americankestrel.com.....hstick.jpg ) I make a couple of these a year and usually embed a magnet in the side to that it is easily attached to the table saw. It is usually made out of plywood and I’ve seen guys that make the sacrificial notch so that it is replaceable.
I can cut one out on the bandsaw in under a minute so I don’t go to that kind of trouble. Drilling and placing the magnet takes a little longer.
Like you and ‘Norm’ I don’t use a blade guard although if I was making a video I would that was because it is easier for the camera to see the cut. I have a splitter on one table saw and think it is a good idea for ‘rough’ or green wood.
Hey Richard. I am flattered by your concern for my safety. ;)
I will address a few of your points though. The general rule about cross-cutting end-grain against the fence stems primarily from the fact that most lumber is much longer than it is wide. So cross-cutting a 6″ wide board that is 36″ long is very dangerous against the fence. In general, you never want to cross-cut anything that is longer than it is wide. But when your end-grain surface is sufficiently wide enough to support the piece through the entire cut, the cut is permissible (at least in my shop). The cut is definitely on the more “challenging” side, but I honestly don’t think its all that dangerous with the proper precautions.
Now I have to defend my weenie push stick. lol. As far as Im concerned, the push stick that gives you the best control over the cut is the best push stick for the job. I actually have several push sticks like yours and I used them on the first few cuts. But I really wasnt happy with the quality of the cut and to make matters worse, the stick would get jammed between my anti-kickback prawls and the fence which is obviously no good. So I opted for my trusty skinny push stick, which yielded a cleaner cut and easily passed between the fence and the splitter. But for many people, a forward-pressure push-stick like yours might be the best option.
And finally, a few words about the splitter/blade guard. I actually DO have a blade guard AND a splitter. And unlike Norm, I dont remove my blade guard and splitter “for clarity”, as I have hear Norm say. My blade guard was pushed out of the way so that I could make the cut safely. There are many cuts where a blade guard actually makes things more difficult and more dangerous. From your last few comments, it actually sounds like you favor a blade guard over a splitter (forgive me if I misunderstood). But do yourself a favor and make sure you have a splitter on your tablesaw whenever possible. The blade guard is a nice feature, but it won’t do a darn thing to protect you against the most dangerous and common tablesaw mishap, Kickback.
It makes me feel good that you are safety conscious. Like I said in my videos, I will always do what I feel is the safest method for me. But if you know of a safer method, by all means use it, and be sure to post it here for everyone’s benefit.
I just found this podcast from some woodworking forum and went through all the episodes in a few days. Great fun to watch and I really like the cutting boards.
Just want to second the “pro-others” approach to your stuff here, Marc. Mention of Matt’s podcast actually turned me on to a resource I’d not yet taken the time to look for, and now am the better for. I’m really starting to digg (hint, hint, everyone) your style and just want to thank you again.
re: Tim’s query: I’ve been taught a jointer is for making a flat surface, a planer is for making two surfaces parallel to one another. (Which is the essence of Marc’s comment.) It’s extremely difficult to substitute one of these machining steps for the other unless the piece was true and square to start with and all you want to do is dimension it.
Hi Marc,
I also want to know like CZ if you finish both sides, and also, I don’t have the Salad Bowl varnish. Can you use mineral oil now, and in a month or so refinish with Salad Bowl Varnish?
Love your site, humor, tips, and I’ll have to find out about digging…
Hey guys. I do indeed treat all surfaces of the board. I didn’t necessarily show that in the video due to time considerations. But all surfaces are treated exactly the same with the same number of varnish coats.
You can use mineral oil first. Just make sure the finish has plenty of time to cure before applying the varnish. And before applying the new finish, I would give the whole board a nice wipe-down with lacquer thinner or denatured alcohol to remove any surface oil. Once it flashes off, you can apply your salad bowl varnish.
Hi Marc! My thinking is that you made the right thing with these videos. Keep up the good work! Well, the reason I’m posting this is that i have a problem seeing this and only this video. It’s not in MP4 format, but in mov. Is it possible to put a link to the mp4 file? Thanx in advance.
As ever, you’re experience, knowledge and presentation in the video podcasts are great. It’s nice see someone of my own age presenting, it helps make me feel I can do this.
Excellent… as a woodworker in training.. I appreciate all that you are teaching us here… In fact I am making a doll bed with puple heart head/foot boards and birch posts….. cannot wait to see what it looks like in a few years…
thanks..
nancy
Good video. How about your thoughts on woods that lighten in color over time? The best example is probably walnut. I’ve got a box I built 25 years ago that is walnut with a padauk inlay. When I made it the walnut was much darker than the inlay. Today, the padauk inlay looks like walnut and the walnut looks lighter than fresh cut cherry.
I love the animals just as much as the next guy, but you missed a great opportunity to wear your new organic slim fit Lumberjocks.com t-shirt! You could have scored some serious Martin points, man…
(By the way… you didn’t actually BUY one of those wire-stripping things, did you? My dad picked one up last year when we went to the St. Louis show and I thought him terribly silly for doing so. Don’t get me wrong; it’s a great invention! But seriously, how many times a year does a non-electrician need to strip wire?)
Your timing is funny, I just went to the WoodWorks Show (www.woodworksevents.com) in Springfield MA last week. I had a great time. It was my first woodworking event since getting into the hobby 3 years ago.
One of my favorites of the show I went to was a turners group out of CT. They were a great bunch of guys to talk to, very approachable and supportive. I certainly would recommend to anyone here that’s going to a show to not miss out on the opportunity.
Thanks for putting this episode together. I look forward the the podcast that reveals everything that was gained by “flexing your plastic”!!
Dont know if anyone noticed the image on my shirt. But if you look closely, you will see a very frustrated bunny sitting at a desk taking a written exam. Get it? “Stop Animal Testing? lol.
Its a hilarious shirt but I find that most people just see the big yellow letter and assume I am some kind of animal activist.
Oh and by the way, this video was shot sometime around early November of 2006. I dont think I even knew of Lumberjocks yet. But an organic slim fit shirt sounds like alot of fun.
And no I didnt buy the wire stripper. I have built-in wire strippers. AKA, my teeth.
Hi Marc, I’m catching up on past episodes. But I wanted to let you know that the blip.tv link doesn’t seem to work with Firefox. I have to click the hi-res QT link.
Thats really weird. I just tried all the links myself and they worked just fine. I also use Firefox. And since I use a Mac primarily, I even checked it out on my PC and the videos all played fine. I wonder if it was just a fluke. let me know if you continue to have a problem.
My wife and I often describe particularly good-looking wood or sought after and valuable tools as “woodworking porn”. Watching you smooch that Padauk plank just brought a whole new meaning to that phrase!
Seriously, we’ve enjoyed your videos immensely. Keep up the great work.
Woodworking porn was born here at the Wood Whisperer and it shall live forever.
But the cutscenes shall die. Marc, I really appreciate all the time you put in on the editing, but leave the rocking guitar introductions be – the sections only last fifteen seconds. Us viewers won’t be lost in the speed of things. We’re smart.
I am very pleased to see a site like yours help keep the traditional skills alive in this world of machine made. My woodworking skills are applied slightly different product line where quality takes on a whole new meaning. Check out my site.
Jacques
PS: One note from us Canadians, Amazon does not ship to Canada (except for CDs, DVDs, VHS videos, and music cassettes).
Great information Marc. I also use a web site called woodfinder.com. Simply enter what kind of wood you looking for and how many miles you want to travel from your zip code. It will show all the places available to you.
A caul is anything that helps distribute clamping pressure during a glueup. Usually made of wood. The above article refers to an especially long clamp that would be used in a glueup where you need pressure in the middle of the piece, and you just cant reach it with a clamp. So you can clamp each end of a curved caul, and that will create even pressure all the way across the joint. Think in terms of gluing a shelf into a bookshelf side. Hope that helps.
I so lok forward to seeing your new episodes. You bring great humor, to woodworking. I appreciate all your tips etc. I’m just getting into my own woodworking projects. Thanks so much for all you do for us wanna bes out here. Thanks. Joe.
Ooops I just noticed there is an Outwater Hardware Co. of which I have not done business with to date. I was actually refering to Outwater Plastics located here in Phoenix:)
Depends on what I’m making, etc. Common hardware – the local big box. Small box hinges, etc. Brusso, usually Lee Valley website. For period reproduction pieces, I use Vandykes usually. For real antique hardware, I have a source up in WA that I’ll look to first. She’s known locally as “The Knob Lady”, since she probably has the most extensive collection of antique furniture pulls and hinges in the known universe. I don’t get up there often – long drive – But when I do I’ll spend hours there. She also has lots of antique hand tools and other things of interest to woodworkers and their wives.
Hey Ethan. Its hard to really compare Blum to Brusso since they are really two different types of hinges. The Blum hinges are Euro-style cup hinges. They usually require a 35mm hole in the door and the other end of the hinge attaches to either the face frame or the side of the cabinet. They are pretty “industrial” looking. Now Brusso, on the other hand, makes some mighty fine hardware. Their hinges are better reserved for your finest projects (jewelry boxes and the like). And you will pay out the nose for them. But they are heavy duty and beautiful at the same time.
And hinges from the big box stores? Well, I use those for shop furniture. :) The metal is usually much thinner and the hinges are just flimsy feeling. I prefer not to use them in fine furniture. But you probably could find a relatively nice set at a big box.
Just discovered your site and looovve the videos. I spent last night going through them all. Very entertaining and educational. Keep you the good work. There’s nothing like this here in the UK.
Thanks – Rob
I’ve dabbled in wdwkg for many years. We’re building a new house and I’ll add a separate 2 car carage with a walk out basement. I’m retired and do wdwkg almost every day. I’m planning on upping my tool inventory with the move. I really enjoyed this segment on shop layout.
Very interested in Part 2 of the end grain cutting board. I want to make one for our new kitchen as the entire surface of the chopping block counter top. Can you forward a link to part 2 – can’t seem to find it among the pods.
Thanks
Jeff
Where was this article 8 years ago when I started in woodworking? I too bought $5 hinges before I knew any better.
I’ve always received great products, prices and service from Woodworkers Hardware. I live in the midwest, and my order is delivered to my door usually the next day (they are located in Minnesota). http://www.wwhardware.com
Marc – first, I love your PodCasts. You are doing a great services to woodworkers everywhere. DIY Network should give you a show and pay you to do these!
Now, for my question. You mention using hot glue to mount a board to a planner sled to remove rocking. That makes sense – but how do you remove the board from the planner sled once the top is flat? (I have never used hot glue, so that might also be the source of my confusion).
Hey David. Hot glue dries hard, but it doesnt really stick like regular glue. it sticks more like caulking. So if you use it sparingly, you can easily pry it back up off the board with no damage to your work piece. Its a handy trick.
Hey Marc,
Awesome website and even better podcasts! I can’t believe I hadn’t seen it earlier, I’ve been lurking around woodworking sites for about a year now. Great job, keep it up, I really appreciate your sharing of knowledge!
Hey Jim. What to you think of that Steel City unit? I have the Jet and am getting ready to upgrade to the Powermatic. But I am very interested in hearing what people think of Steel City tools. Let me know.
Another great episode! I think you should have touched on when to use each joint. For example if you use pocket screws where you will never see them than you won’t have to fill them in. In my opinion each type of joint has its use and knowing when to use one instead of the other can save lots of time and headaches later.
Hey Marc great episode, I especially appreciate seeing you demonstrate YOUR technique. I wonder if you would/will comment on the pros and cons of floating MT vs more traditional. I’m mostly interested in relative strength of one over the other and if there are certain situations when you wouldn’t use the floating one.
my vote also goes to woodworkers hardware they have good prices and they are super nice .Also i really enjoy your site marc it reminds me of the furniture guys
Hey Greg. As far as Im concerned, the only difference between the floating tenon and the integral tenon is how you make them. Strength-wise, a properly milled floating tenon joint should be just as strong as an integral tenon. I would do whatever method is easier for you. But since a floating tenon requires you to put a mortise on each piece, you might run into some issues on long pieces (such as a long table apron). So unless you have a multi-router or something like the Domino, you will need to find a way to balance your router at the end of a long apron piece. Tricky stuff. So in those cases, I would absolutely recommend an integral tenon.
But otherwise, I consider the two joints equivalent.
I’ve had success with a shop-made slot mortiser. Mine is a variation on the one featured in FWW #174. I built my router table with a provision for mounting my plunge router horizontally. That horizontal attachment will bolt up to my slot mortising jig, which in-turn is fastened to the table.
I have been using Homestead TransTint liquid dye diluted in alcohol along with seal coat for a while now. I have even been able to duplicate my results at a later date with great success. My best results have come from applying the stain first and following that with the seal coat. I also use General Finishes wipe on gel Urethane as a final step. I have found this combination to be as close to foolproof as possible for outstanding results.
I enjoy watching your videos and hope you keep it up.
The same thing happened to me quite a few years ago. I made some candle holders out of some 3″ diameter Birch disks, & set them on our Duncan Phyfe dining room table. After sitting overnight, there were 20, 3″ diameter white spots on the table. I didn’t know what to do, so while hesitating for a short time they went away by themselves.
So possibly in order to rush things along, maybe try a hair dryer on low heat.
A suggestion for Larry (submitted by Doug).
A couple of years ago, my mother damaged her antique dinning table. She forgot to blow-out the candles on her center piece after a dinner party. Forty-five minutes later she returned to the Dinning room to find the candles had burned down low enough to light the center piece ablaze. In a panic, she poured a big pot of water over it, leaving a very nasty mess in the middle of the table. After the center piece and water was cleared away, she was left with a big white circle in the middle of the table. I was able to remove the white stains by using ground pumice stone, same as you would to rub out a finish. I’ve found that if the finished isnt damaged all the way thru its layers the ground pumice stone will take the stain out. Then just wax and buff the surface again. Experience with ground pumice stone helps, i use a small amount of distilled water as a lubricant. Hope this helps.
Marc; Just read an article in FWW #148 about M&T strength. The author likes floating tenons and said “…all the joints we tested were stronger than the most severe load they would ever be subjected to…” but “…if faced with a need for a super-strong joint or one that must not deflect, I will now use a traditional mortice and tenon…” once again your advice is right on the marc ;-) Greg
If a mortiser is nothing more than a drill press with a chisel, why have both a mortiser and a drill press? Do manufacturers not make a duel-purpose machine? And if not, why not?
They do make add-on kits for drill presses that will allow you to cut mortises. But it is my understanding that its a real pain in the butt to tear down and set up. And the results are usually not as good since the drill press table is not intended for the type of work required for drilling mortises(for example, the absence of a built-in fence). But if you are limited on funds and space, there is no reason why you couldnt use this type of system.
Just like many other multi-purpose machines, it will be a jack of all trades but a master of none.
Marc,
Great video as usual! One thing I was curious to know was how would you treat the shoulder cut as it wood relate to a round surface? Maybe a 6″ dia?
Love your podcasts! Just watched the second part of Tennons and learned a LOT! Thanks man, you really rock. I also checked out the link to the Festool Domino. Like most of the Festool line, Great Tools, I’d love to have them, but talk about sticker shock! My GAWD! I could buy a brand new Jointer for that price. I think for the time being, I’ll stick to old fashioned M&T. I already have the Tennoning jig for my TS.
Marc, awesome video! Looking forward to the Mission style desk. Sounds like a great project. The Festool Domino looks like a very cool tool. Any advice on how to convice those in the kitchen to allow those in the garage to buy this tool? Another very nice option for mortise & tenon joints is the Leigh FMT (Frame Mortise & Tenon) Jig. Might be worth looking at some time – I know how much you like tools. Check it out at http://www.leighjigs.com/fmt.php
Hey Greg,
For long boards, I would either clamp the piece to my mitre sled and use the dado blade or make a shop-made jig and use my hand held router. Either one of those should get the job done.
If you have high ceilings you can even use the tenoning jig.
I’m a web suscriber of finewoodworking and this is the first time I see your video. It said episode 4 so I believe the others were already showed. Or are you like start war who started on another episode? joking..
I wll like to see more of these videos alongs with all that basics.I’m also new on woodworking but I’m learning a lot of people like you who do not have problems to share knoledge. thanks and keep it up…
Luis
Marc, mega-woodchip-ditto’s. Question about the hand planes. I got an old Montgomery Wards bench planer from my dad, who, got it from his dad when he passed away about 20 years ago. It is pretty much beat to heck, but would love to restore it. You mentioned that there are articles out there.. any recommendations. Thanks and keep the podcasts comming.
I am engennier civil, I love to working wood,
Living in San Salvador, El Salvador, Centroamerica,
We do not have a shop specializing in Carpentry.
I Wanted to get Magazines for Internet to be able to happy.
Besides the FMT which looks like an awesome tool to M&T joints of all sizes I wanted to mention the WoodRat which is something of a routing system. It handles M&T joints of all sizes AND does dovetails. Just another option for people to investigate if you are considering the Domino.
Just wanted to suggest another method for making the tenons using your router table. Marc and I had a brief discussion about the merits of either and I think we agree that it comes down to what you learned and what you use most often. I find that using a 1/4 or 3/4 straight bit (depending on the size of the tenon) on my router table (using the exact method that Marc uses on his table saw with a stop block) is faster than either using my table saw with the thin blade or tearing down and putting in a dado blade. Once the stop block is set, you can run through as many tenons as you need. Just another alternative to the many ways that Marc has shown.
Great website and podcasts Marc. I like the humor and hominess of the episodes. For those prices (Domino) I think I’ll stick with my plunge router and a few MDF jigs. Actually all of the M/T machines are way overpriced.
Wow! Love the site and I am working my way through all of the podcasts while my six week old son is napping…
A couple of quick questions regarding this cutting board episode:
1.) I noticed that you cut the board on the table saw with the fence up against the slice you were taking out. I don’t own a table saw yet, but I thought that was a no-no. I also noticed that you had a wood block running the length of your fence. What for?
2.) You answered someone question about recoating all sides of the board, but I was wondering if you had to wait for the top side to cure/dry befor flipping it over to apply the finish to the underside? Or is there a trick that lets you save a few days…
I can’t tell you how great I think your podcasts are! Keep up the great work!
Hey Peter. Well first off, congrats on the mini-woodworker! Getting any sleep lately? :)
1- I agree that that type of cut is not ideal. But in cases where you need a consistent sized cut, it just makes more sense to do it that way. And with some experience and the right push sticks, that cut is relatively safe. I would not recommend doing that as your first cut on a tablesaw, but once you are comfortable with the machine, you should be in good shape to try it. Just be sure to use a good push stick.
2- You would need to let the board dry before coating the other side. That is, unless you come up with a system that lets the board breathe while it dries. One way to do this is to take a piece of scrap ply and put a few nails into it. Then you can coat the whole board and lay it with the bottom resting on the nail heads. The nail heads might put a slight blemish in the finished surface, but its nothing that a light sanding wont take care of. And if you use a little finish nail. you shouldnt see anything at all.
Hope that helps Peter. Good luck with your woodworking!!
Thank you Marc for a great website, It’s very informative. I myself am in the constuction trade learning what is to know and I use your site as a tool to increase my Knowledge in fine wood working.As you probably know working for contracters they are allways looking for the quickest and not so safest way to GET UR DONE. I was wondering what your expierance is with water based poly’s. ie with brush hash marks.
Thank you for your time, I now have to dig myself out of this snow storm that we are getting blistered with.
Hey Thomas. I don’t usually use water based poly, but when I do I usually apply it using a HVLP spray system. It sprays alot like lacquer and gives decent results. Its a water-white finish so it suitable for light-colored woods that you dont want to yellow over time, like maple and birch. If you do have to brush it on, I recommend using a synthetic applicator taking care not to produce bubbles. When you stir the product, use a stirring stick and stir in each direction about 100 time. Dont shake the can. And since it flashes so quickly, you might want to dilute with a bit of water. This will give you a bit more working time between application strokes.
And Ron, Spar Urethane is intended for outdoor use and contains a higher amount of solids. It tends to be a softer, more flexible finish. This is primarily because of the temperature changes and harsh conditions outdoor pieces will experience. The finish needs to be flexible in order to survive. Spar urethane may also contain UV inhibitors which help to preserve the color of the wood and avoid graying.
That was a good idea of explaining how a project begins from the point of a picture – to sketchup – and the thinking that we go through in building a custom piece of furniture. As someone who got into woodworking only 3 years ago and who learned mostly by watching NYW and reading forums and later books, the design process is the least covered subject. When watching Norm build anything, he begins from the point where he starts cutting wood and rarely covers any explanation why he chose his joinery. You keep giving this kind of “understanding-level” explanation to woodworking and you’re going to provide a valuable service. Regards
thanks for the advice…. after over 30 hours of trying to figure out plans and wood needs for projects I am working on at the moment.. hope sketchup helps
love your site..
Marc,
I have to say Wow, my hats off to you and your wife.For doing such a wonderful job.
This past summer I lost my lower left leg.While I was off an setting around, I got interested in woodworking.I started by watching New Yankee Workshop and then I started to read books an magazines. Looking at websites, thats how I stumbbled across yours. Man,I am impressed.
How a person can take a piece of wood an create a work of art.I myself would love to learn how to become a craftsman.But i know it takes time an tools.As far as skill I believe I have the abillaity.But the question is can you teach an old 50 year old man .Where do I start in what direction. These are questions I ask myself.
I dont have friends that have this skill.As far as classes, I have looked but can not find any near Cincinnati,Ohio.
By vocation I am a consultant in Regulatory Toxicology and by avocation a serious woodworker. Your comments about the toxicity of various finishes were right on the money and I wont get into an elaborate discussion here except to say “the dose makes the poison” and when using non-approved (FDA) finishes that holds true. I would have no issue personally using food contact items that have been finished with any type of polymerizing (or cured) finish. However, any woodworker who either gifts, donates or sells these products should consider the potential legal ramifications of using a non-approved finish. For this reason I would strongly encourage that these products be finished with FDA complient products such as mineral oil, Salad Bowl Finish or other natural oils.
Once again a great show Marc. I am a recent Sketchup convert and while I have been using it mainly for house designing it was good to see it in this application.
You’re not thinking of making me totally jealous by using some Festool Domino-looking thing for your loose tenon joinery, are you?
Going through the project from concept to completed table is a great idea. Looking forward to seeing the rest of it!
I’ll also give SketchUp a looksee. I’ve been meaning to check into a 3-D modeling tool for some time, and if this isn’t motivation enough, I don’t know what is.
I just downloaded it and gave it a test drive, pretty simple and easy to use and the docs are well done.
BTW to copy a component use the “Move” tool. Select the Move tool and hit your Ctrl key (or the Mac equivalent for Marc ;D) and you will notice a small + sign appear next to your Move mouse pointer. This means you are in copy mode.
Also you can type in dimensions to create a copy and automatically move it X inches over for automatic spacing.
To do this do the following:
1. Select the Move tool
2. Hit Ctrl to enter copy mode.
3. Select the component and drag it in the direction you want to place it (keep the mouse button down).
4. Type in the number of inches to move it and hit enter.
It will automatically create a copy and move it that number of inches in the direction you desire.
Really handy for creating multiple evenly spaced components.
I’ve been woodworking for a number of years and think that your episode provides the best single overview that I’ve seen–it does a great conceptual job without getting bogged in detail or tools. I suggest that once your viewers have mastered the basics they might want to consider purchasing a good hand plane . Hand planes are (1) the best way to quickly flatten larger surfaces (think tops of table and cabinets; (2)a better way to remove wind from boards; (3) the only practical way to surface highly figured woods.
Another way to inspect a surface before applying a finish is to wipe it with a rag soaked in Mineral Spirits. It simulates an oil finish but evaporates without a trace in just a few minutes and doesn’t raise the grain. I’m not very patient at the sanding and planing stage so I do this a few times to check my progress.
Thanks for the sketchup primer. (and for fixing whatever it was that seemed to turn the comment window into a clickable link to the above project photo – bizzarre).
Going to enjoy the start to finish on this project. Glad your trying to make a show of it too! Your pain is our gain! Thanks for thinking of us!… Oh, and no need to apologise, looks good (apart from, what was that, a plane flying overhead ;) consider the slack, cut.
Good luck!, we’ll be watching (and eagerly awaiting the next installments)
This was a great film. I intend to use it in my woods classes. I found it (Thanks Fine Woodworking) at just the right time as This is what I am discussing in class. Keep up the good work.
Loved this concept, can’t wait to see the rest of the videos! Do you plan on discussing the business end of the deal at all, talking about what the cost of the project was vs. what your commission was for the project? I would be very interested in something like that.
Thank you, I like it very much. Marc very sympatic and jhis explanations are very clear… et clever!
I dont exactly like the rap with explanation, but I am an old man, so, stay do what you think is good and funny!
(My english is not good, I am French and I dont have enough opportunety to practice…. )
Great stuff! I hope you are able to continue. Information such as you deliver is essential and often forgotten with all the background noise of information flying around. As in all education, the basics are essential – plus you make the learning enjoyable.
My wife came into the room to make sure i was really watching a woodworking show when she heard the glue up part. Almost got me in trouble but well worth it.
A trick I use to avoid snipe is to slightly lift the back end of the wood as it starts to feed into the planer. Ususally after about 6″ is in the planer you can let go. That seems to stop snipe for me.
Great episode. I remember my first trip to a discount hardwood warehouse. I brought my 10 year old son, which of course made it impossible for me to ask for help, since as a dad and a self-proclaimed woodworker I am supposed to know everything. I couldn’t help but feel like the teenage kid at the counter was laughing at me when he rung me up after I wandered around for about and hour and half. Anyway, great stuff, and hope to see more!
To help the shop vac filter, ask your wife to give up a pair of panty hose. Cut off one leg, sretch it over the filter and tie a knot in the toe to make it fit the shape of the filter. I was supprised at the amount of fine dust it stopped before it could enter the filter.
I have a question though. At the very end, you joint the board edge to 90 degrees, then run the board through the table saw for the other edge. Why not just run both through the saw, if the saw blade is set to 90 degrees, or joint both edges on the jointer?
Hey Johan. Although a table saw will cut a nice 90 degree edge, it will only cut the edge into a nice straight line if the edge against the fence is nice and straight. So we must take a trip to the jointer first. Now once you have a straight edge, you might be tempted to simply run your second rough edge over the jointer as well. This would indeed produce a straight 90 degree edge. But what it doesn’t do is produce an edge that is perfectly parallel to the first. You can and most likely will produce a wedge-shaped board that is wider on one end than it is on the other. So by going to the table saw and trimming our second edge, we are ensured a perfectly parallel edge. Now you could stop right there and go directly to the glueup, but I prefer to run the tablesawn edge over the jointer one time to ensure a pefectly accurate joint.
This may seem a bit picky, but when you glue up your boards and you cant even see the glue line, you will be thankful for the extra effort you put into the preparation.
Thanks for the explanation, Marc. I don’t know why I didn’t realize it. It’s the same as jointing then planing for thickness, instead of just jointing down to size. (I don’t have a planer, so after watching your milling podcast, I built a sled for my router which works great.
You have an excellent site, thanks for sharing your knowledge.
I took a seminar with Paul Schurch. He is an unbeliveable veneer artist. The seminar made marquetry and parquetry less scary (I wish he could do something with my mother in-law). Check out http://www.pro-glue.com/. And when you have a moment, check out http://www.schurchwoodwork.com/. If you see his seminar at a woodworking show, go, listen and take notes.
Could you explain a little bit more about plastic resin glue? How does it apply compared to contact? Is it reactive to heat? Will it effect the finish if you are messy like me with glue and get it on the face of the veneer? How well does it work with plastics, or vynl, or any product with a phenolic backing?
Hi Marc
I was curious if the window screen you mention in this technique will leave a pattern that will need to be sanded out? I haven’t tried it, but I wonder if I need to make sure I include the extra step if I decide to use this process.
The plastic resin glue is my preferred glue for veneering applications. The bond is very rigid. Something like contact cement is a little more flexible and I have found that in some cases the veneer lifts over time. Perhaps from improper technique, but I would rather avoid the stuff just to be safe. The only time I use contact cement is if I am applying veneer to a surface that cant be clamped properly or if I am applying a laminate.
In general, the plastic resin glues dry better at higher temperatures. I probably wouldnt use it if the temp was below 65-70 degrees. I really only use the stuff for wood to wood applications so you should consult the individual application instructions from the manufacturer to see what materials it will and wont bind to.
It will inhibit staining, so you should try to avoid getting any on the face of your veneer.
And as to bob’s question. The screen might leave some marks that would need to be sanded out. But I usually give my veneered panels a nice sanding before applying finish anyway, so whatever marks were there are usually not a problem.
Love your site! I started watching the video pod casts two days ago and just got caught up. Now I have to wait for the next one :-( You have a great sense of humor. “Lets get ready tooooooooo….”
It seems to me that the domino by Festool is a mobile multi-router :-)
I also tried a burl veneer on my first veneer project and had good luck with Super Soft Veneer Softener that I purchased from Joe Woodworker.com. I used an iron on medium heat instead of Marc’s technique to speed things up and had good results. I used a router with a flush trim bit and MDF cauls to edge joint the veneer but the joint line showed a bit after finishing. Any tips on how to get a better result next time?
Thanks for the info I will have to check it out! I work in a custom cabinet shop that only uses contact cement, so it is all I know. There has been times when i have done side projects out side of work where I wish I had a better alternative to contact cement but I ended up using it anyways because that is what I was familiar with. With all the peculiarities of contact cement I manage to do ok with it, but I have been working with it for years so I know all its ticks!
Hey Michael. You can also use your jointer to get a nice straight edge on the veneer. But I dont think the quality of the edge is where your problems lies. I have a specific technique for joining veneer that I should probably do a video on. Its much easier to show than it is to explain. I actually use blue tape stretched across the joint to create a clamping effect. I stitch the tape across the joint ever few inches. Then I put one long strip along the joint. I then flip the veneer over and make an A-frame exposing the edges of the veneer. Then I actually put a little bit of yellow glue across the joint and spread it carefully with my finger.
Next I put the veneer flat on the table again and put a nice strip of tape along the entire joint. I then either use a piece of wood or my finger nail to burnish the joint and make sure the veneers are not overlapping one another. Let sit for 3-4 hours and you will have two veneer sheets that act as one. This is a good way to ensure the joint never splits. And you should have a perfect seam.
I’ve seen it in almost all of your videos, so I’ve got to ask. What type of small, 6″ adjustable square are you using? I’ve never considered using one that size, but after seeing in in action, well, I don’t know what I’ve been thinking. Is it available in your store? Looking forward to the next installment,
Hey Andrew. The one I use is a little 4″ Double Square sold by Lee Valley. It is by far my most frequently used measuring and marking device. Here is the link:
I was curious why you didn’t use the domino to join the boards for the table top versus the biscuit joiner? I look forward to your weekly videos. Thanks.
Hey mark. I certainly could have used the Domino to align my boards. To be honest, the Domino will most likely replace my biscuit joiner in almost all tasks. But the truth is I have a drawer that is full of biscuits. My family knows I always need biscuits so guess what I find in my Christmas stocking every year? Yep. More biscuits. So it was really a practicality issue.
Hey Ron. Its going to be tough to give an accurate answer. You save a bunch of time in setup. Obviously traditional joints require a good amount of setup time. With the Domino you are up and running in minutes.
But remember, once you get set up for the traditional joinery, you can blast through all your parts. But if you have multiple sized parts with different sized tenons, the setup process needs to be repeated. So how much time you save is really dependant on the project. Minimally, it will save you your standard setup time and fine tuning time for a standard mortise and a standard tenon. For some people, thats 20 minutes. For others, thats a few hours.
A good way to look at it is to think of the Domino as something you are probably already familiar with: a biscuit joiner. So how much time would you save if you could use a biscuit joint instead of a mortise and tenon? That should give you a good idea.
Well, this year I was so busy with the podcast that I almost forgot to shop!! Can you believe it??? I actually just picked up a few router bits that I needed and bunch of Mirka ROS sandpaper. A good score nonetheless.
Thank you for such a quick response! Do you get credit if we purchase from the “new or used available” books (books that aren’t actually shipped by Amazon)?
hi Manju. I should get credit for anything that goes through The Wood Whisperer front door. Either use my Amazon search feature or click on the link that says “Go to Amazon.com”.
The good ole hide glue is worth a mention. Damp and press the veneer as described, but then work while it is still damp. If the burls seems to be breaking up, or likely to, then apply veneer tape to the top surface, hot hide glue to the work, and apply and press, or use a veneer hammer for flat surfaces.
Hide glue is of course, water soluble, so if you use a water based stain there is a hope of being able to match in to its surroundings after you’ve applied the veneer.
Hmmm. You’re in the southwest, right? There can’t be any meatballs and sauce down there so she didn’t throw any of that at your t-shirt. Hmmm. What can it be?
Hi Marc, I have just watched your 3 videos on the Arts & Crafts table with great pleasure. You have all the attributes of a great teacher: clear speech, a sound grasp of your subject and enthusiasm. I hope that you and the video series prosper. I’ll be back to watch more. Nigel (in the UK).
Being in the market just recently myslef for a combo blade I actually decided on the Freud Premier Fusion blade and so far it’s been great!! Although I would recommend the Forest Blades as well having purchased the Dado King set up and again so far it’s been an awesome set up. Spend an extra couple of bucks and you won’t regret it!
Hi Marc. Normally I’d agree with you but I personally believe there is no need to spend $100 on a good table saw blade. My reasoning behind this is that I have the Dewalt DW7657 in my table saw and it is just as sharp now as the day I bought it a year ago. It very closely resembles the forrest blade in the way it was made (40 tooth ATB, aggressive negative hook, thick C4 carbide, etc.)and the performance rivals that of a WWII as well. The best part is that right now at amazon it’s only $31.99 after the discount. With the performance the blade has given me the year I’ve had it I see no need to spend $100 on a forrest blade.
Hi Marc,
I just wanted to point out a safety hazard I noticed on this video. While you were working on the router, a lace or string from you shirt was dangling quite close to the router bit as it was spinning.
Great site! I am learning a lot and it’s very entertaining.
Marc,
I am really enjoying your videos! Each time I learn new things. They have become a very important part of my woodworking education.
I notice from this issue and your shop tour that you have a Jet 14″ band saw. I just purchased mine at our local Woodcraft. I bought the 6″ riser and would like your opinions on an aftermarket blade. I will probably just purchase one or two, so what do you recommend for general purpose use? If I do any resawing, what do you recommend for that?
Hey Dan. I do think the table would be strong enough without the bottom stretchers. It would be more like a dining room table that way. I see no major problems building it that way.
I really liked the part when after edge gluing and clamping the table top you just turned it on edge and used a scraper to remove the squeeze out.
I tried that last weekend on the stock I glued up for the blanket chest I am making. It works great.
The only thing I did not like was cleaning the glue off of my scraper. I think the next time I will use one of those phony credit cards I seem to get in the mail to scrape off the squeeze out.
I totally finish the piece. Sometimes after the glueup you might need to do a little touch up here and there but thats no big deal. This type of strategy doesnt work for every piece, but it can certainly save you alot of headaches when the final piece has lots of hard to reach places.
Thanks for the recommendation on Timberwolf blades. Can you make specific recommendations on which one (or two)? There are a bazillion choices there ;)
If you are looking to slice veneers, go for the 1/2″ 6 TPI. Some would recommend doing for 3/4″, but I prefer the 1/2″ since its more versatile. For general resawing, you can go with less TPI, something like 3 would be good. But I usually get 6 TPI and keep that in the saw. Changing blades is no fun. Kinda like cleaning squeezout. :)
I saw a 7 1/4 inch WWII blade. I’ve tried to panel cut with a zero-clearance jig but can’t find a good blade to fit on my Porter Cable circular saw. The best I’ve found is a Freud(sp?) but I still have some tear-out unless I apply blue tape and score cut first before I through cut. So I’m wondering if the Woodworker II 7 1/4″ version of this blade would allow me to panel cut without all the fuss. My local Woodcraft has Festool blades but I don’t think they fit regular Circular Saws. Friends have said a regular circular saw can never do this job.
Hey Richard. I use a Freud blade on my Porter Cable circular saw and it does pretty well for me. But it is by no means a perfect cut. So there has to be something better that isnt as expensive as the Festool saw right? Well, if the performance of Forrest’s circular saw blade is anything like that of its bigger brothers, I would have to say it would be worth the investment. Unfortunately, I cant speak from experience since I never used one of the little guys. But upgrading to a premium blade would certainly be cheaper than upgrading to a whole new system like Festool.
If your going to spend the money for the good blades find a good person to sharpen them and they usually don’t come cheap either. There are lots of hacks out there that will mess up your good blades for a really cheap price!
I as well use WWII as well as a couple of freud blades. I do think that the forrest blades are slightly superior on overall multi-use platform but I would give a huge thumbs up to freud as well..
The question I have is the value of thin kerf vs standard blades. I recently purchased a thin kerf WWII on Amazon for a great price of $79.00. I do not see any difference in stiffness or the accuracy of my cuts between the two. I have asked around but I have never heard a good explanation of why one is better than the other and I would like to get your take on this….
Hey John. There are some that believe that a thin kerf blade wobbles a little bit more than a full kerf blade. This extra vibration results in a slightly less smooth cut. Would you need a microscope and a set of dial calipers to detect the difference? Probably. But just in case, there are blade stiffeners available that slide on the arbor after the blade and help to “steady” the blade.
But in reality, the most compelling reason to use a thin kerf blade is if you are running a lower horsepower saw. A 1HP saw, for instance, will be happier pushing a thin kerf blade. You should see a little performance increase. By the time you hit the 2HP range, the full kerf is perfectly fine. So I dont really see one being better than the other. I just see them serving two different purposes. Once you decide what you like, then you should stick with it since your splitter (if you have one installed), will only work with one or the other.
I agree with the sage advice that you gave Darin. Sounds like maybe he used too heavy a cut of shellac in his sanding sealer. I use a much-thinned cut, about 1/2 lb or less, and use scraps to determine if the particular boards need an additional coat of sealer (usually
they do not). I try to use the least amount of shellac that will give me the “anti-splotch” result when I apply stain. Depending on what stain I am using, I may need to use a second or even a third application of stain to get the final look. That is, it may take a “primer” coat of stain to serve as a base for the final”color” coat. Also, the stain needs to be thoroughly mixed before application, in order to get the colorants uniformly distributed in the stain. Sometimes, I ‘ve been in a hurry and did not mix the stain and later found that some of the colorant had settled to the bottom of the container, giving me a much different result than I expected. The stain has to be uniformly mixed.
If one has more scraps and time to experiment, it may be that some dye could be added to the thinned shellac that would enrich the final look when the stain is applied. In Darin’s case, from the “orange” tone he describes, maybe a slight amount of blue-green, green, or yellow-green tint in the shellac sanding sealer would produce the brown color he wants in the finished (pun intended) product. His test boards would determine which combination is best for his case. As a final note, commercial stains are often shown with photos of how the stain looks on pine and other woods. Each wood and each tree has its own behavior, so Darin might need to use a blend of two stains to achieve the final “custom” color he wants. Don’t be afraid to experiment. Have fun with woodworking.
I really enjoyed the episode, all 4 parts. Designing, milling, finishing, construction. It is all there. Excellent.
I did notice something of interest – you had a blanket under the piece as you did the glue up / assembly process. I figure this is to protect both the piece and the workbench surface. What a great idea! I had never seen this before, but it makes complete sense and makes me say “Ah, I should have done that years ago.” And I liked the south western theme of the blanket – great sense of place in your shop.
Been meaning to ask, in the intro segment to the show, you have a small bench (or possibly footstoof)… Have you posted that elsewhere, or is there any info you’d like to share on its construction? (here or over at Lumberjocks?) It’s a nice looking piece (one I’d like to try, and with all the veneered pieces leading up to it, it’s one I feel comfortable trying!
Excellent podcast as always. Actually, it’s a timely piece, since I just made a rough clamp rack (a series of racks, actually) and noticed that some of my nice new Jet clamps have dried glue on them! I thought that the polished bars would be resistant to the glue, but apparently that’s not so. But at least now I have a couple of solutions to try…
I was curious, however, why you didn’t include Aluminum bar clamps? They can be found for very little $$ in some cases, and are lighter than the pipe clamps, which makes them easier to work with. The only downside is that they do flex more than the pipe clamps, so they won’t provide as much pressure. But so far, they’ve done well for me.
Also, it seems Bessey is making their clamps for other companies. Of course Woodcraft has them now, but also Harbor Freight carries a Bessey clone (who knows if it’s actually made by Bessey- but they are exact to the Woodcraft clamps except for the color). The nice thing about those clamps is that the handle is a fluted aluminum handle, which is easy to grip. Also, with the infamous Harbor Freight sales and discount coupons, they may be available for a very reasonable cost.
Hey Ray. Are you watching the streaming version on the site or one of the quicktime movies above the image? If you are watching the streaming version. It always helps to hit pause after it starts playing and give it a few extra seconds to buffer up. Im not positive that thats the reason for your problem, but it could be. And unfortunately, I cant seem to reproduce your problem.
Hey Travis. I left out several clamps simply because I don’t own them. I really wanted to focus on the clamps that I use on a daily basis. But of course, there is nothing wrong with a nice set of aluminum bar clamps.
Hey Scott. Thats a little child’s sitting bench (or foot stool) that I made as a prototype. The construction is primarily mortise and tenon but I dont really have much info on the details. It was a quick one-off type thing. I can email you as much detail as I remember, but I dont really have any pics or anything showing the process.
Love your website. How deep are the 12″ deep throat clamps that you like and mention in this podcast?
I’d also like to make a plug for my favorite clamps: Wetzler quick clamps. They are F-style clamps that are built like tanks. I have a bunch of the 4″ deep clamps, and love the way that they work. The feel of these clamps is second to none, even the best parallel clamps, and they are square enough that I think they do just as well as parallel clamps in glue ups.
I think your pal David Marks likes these clamps as well.
Great podcast as usual. The tip about waxing your clamps is a good one but you don’t want to wax the bar of the old-style Quick Grips. The clamp head will want to slip when you want it to grip. I know this from past experience :(
Wetzler does indeed make great clamps. Well built and sturdy. I remember using them in David’s shop and they never failed us. I did find them comparable in quality to Bessey’s heavy duty line of clamps.
Great show as usual Marc. I am wondering if you might post a couple of shots of your hanging rack, as that is next on my list of adjustments to the shop and I am looking for inspiration.
I found a huge piece of purpleheart at woodcraft in Loveland CO. for less per board foot than oak…. in other words my cheap ass bought it. I decided to make one of your cutting boards since I have a huge stockpile of maple at the house….
So you perform a sneaky little trick in your podcast :) You changed from one glue up pattern to another after you make your 1 1/4 cross cuts, no big deal I just could not figure out what was differetn beteween mine and yours. I will make the next one with the 3/4 cuts inside…
Thanks for the project… I have made several cutting boards in the past but I really like the contrast between the purpleheart and the maple….
Keep up the good work and I hope to see you on TV soon…
When you say they can be bought on-sale for a ‘good’ price, what is a good price for the jet parallel jaw clamps? I see the current price on Amazon, but what can I expect to save through patience?
Thanks… I am a new wood worker/// just getting my woodshop together… and clamps use and types has always been a huge question.. gonna mozey over to your store…
Will the same treatment regimen work for cast iron planes? I wrapped one of mine in my work gloves for the trip from California to Germany when I moved here (I’m in the military) and I now have a Lie Nielson block plane with some “character.” Needless to say, I would like to get it back to its original glory and keep it that way.
Hey Scott. That treatment would work great on a plane. When removing the rust though, i would probably progress through to the highest grit paper I could find (probably 2000), since looks count for something on a LN plane.
I actually treat all of my hand tools with T-9 to prevent rust. And if you are traveling, put on a heavy coat and just put it away. Dont wipe off the excess. You will be very pleased with the results.
Thanks, Marc! I actually left all of my stationary power tools in storage in Monterey, CA. I smeared a heavy coat of cosmoline on all of the bare metal surfaces, and I’m hoping for the best when I see them again after 3 years in a non-climate-controlled warehouse in the salt air.
Given the general advice to avoid using WD-40 near wood due to finishing problems, I am puzzled about why you use it at all here. Why not just dry sand, or if you insist on making mud, use a different lubricant?
Mark, I’m new to woodworking as I have inherited a fine woodworking workshop from my father-in-law. He was not much for teaching and so I’m having to learn how to use the equipment on my own with the manuals. So far so good. I have created a few pieces and your videos have been very helpful as well as entertaining. My father-in-law, probably, would not have appreciated your humor but my wife and I lol. Keep up the podcasting. That in and of itself is an art you and your wife, have been doing well with too. I notice you are a Macintosh aficionado. Good man! I purchased a pair of the Bessy® K clamps I saw you using with the cutting board series. Mark, thank you for sharing your woodworking acumen with guys like me out here.
The main reason not to dry sand is the performance of the sandpaper. The rust will quickly clog the paper without lubricant. And you can use just about anything other than water as a lubricant. Mineral spirits comes to mind. I use WD-40 because it doesnt evaporate and its pretty cheap compared to the higher quality lubricants.
WD40 is not an ideal product to clean the cast iron. The liquid portion of the product never fully evaporates and thus traps corrosive mineral deposits between the porous cast iron surface and a thin coating of the WD40 liquid. The surface should be cleaned with mineral spirits and 600 grit wet/dry paper. Next, wipe the mineral spirits from the surface. Clean the surface with acetone. The acetone dries almost on contact and does not allow any moisture to remain on the surface. Since the cast iron is porous it is important to heat the surface so that the wax is able to flow into the minute pores of the metal. Heat a 12 x 12″ section with a propane torch or a heat lamp until it gets hot enough to liquefy the wax on contact. Be sure not to stand directly over the wax to avoid breathing in the vaporized material. Repeat this procedure until the entire surface has received a coating of wax. Allow the surface to cool for 20 minutes and then buff off any hazy residue. This should keep away rust for a reasonable amount of time but more frequent waxing may be required depending on your own pattern of usage. Typically, the best method of fending off rust on a cast iron deck is to use it every day as the constant burnishing of materials moving across the surface creates a natural polishing action. It still needs to be waxed but usually only once a month during the most humid of summer months.
I live in Toronto, Canada – in a condo. My tool cabinet lives on my balcony 12 months a year. While most Americans think that we ski up here in July, and feed our polar bears in August, the reality here is that our weather goes through the same cycles as Buffalo or Boston. Ok, maybe a little more extreme, but close. I do woodworking almost 12 months a year on that balcony, usually on the tool cabinet (luckily, I share a full shop at a friend’s home). To protect the tools year round I spray them all down with WD-40 four times a year. It is a bit of a pain in the butt to have to wipe down the tools with a rag soaked in Varsol every time I want to use it, and respray it before putting it away, but not one of my tools have a spot of rust on them. I think (he says cockily) that it is all in the maintenance. Any good tool worth having is a piece of art, both in design, and in execution. It should be treated accordingly, even if it is locked up in a cabinet, outside, in -10 degrees weather.
I was able to use a medium brown dye to slightly color the blond toned maple and then applied a 1lb cut of shellac and then my gel stain and the results were what I wanted. I wiped on the dye and I can see why you recommended spraying this it can be a little tricky.
In researching food-safe finishes, I have found that most “boiled” linseed oil is in fact not boiled at all; it instead consists of “a combination of raw linseed oil, petroleum-based solvent and metallic dryers” (see Wikipedia, Linseed Oil), which makes the product toxic. When using this product, care should definitely be taken to minimize skin contact with the oil. I imagine that the metallic dryers remain in the wood, and unlike other finishes which are non-toxic when dry, this finish remains at least somewhat toxic.
I know Tried & True makes FDA food-safe compliant finishes, including true boiled linseed oil (called Danish Oil).
Otherwise, I have used food-grade “flaxseed oil,” which is just raw linseed oil, and is available at supermarkets or health-food stores. This takes considerably longer to cure fully (weeks to months) than boiled linseed oil, but is completely non-toxic and food safe. I know it can be heated to polymerize it and reduce curing time, but I’m not sure of the exact process.
Corrosion X also works very well and is a lubricant. It was developed for Military/Industrial applications, is used widely in the boating world, and is just now coming to the attention of the woodworking world. I am not related to the company, just an avid boater and woodworker. For more information see this link: http://www.corrosionx.com/hd.html
I’ve really enjoyed your website. Keep up the good work.
Based on your recommend I decided to give the WWII saw blade a shot. The ‘problem’ is I ordered the blade through your website from amazon and amazon has the Forrest part numbers switched for the thick (1/8) and thin (3/32) kerf blades. I ordered a thick kerf but received a thin kerf. Heads up to anyone ordering from Amazon, check the last part of the item model number 125 vs 100.
I don’t want to use a stabilizer, that’s why I ordered the thick blade. But now I have in my hands the thin blade and don’t really want to hassle with returning it. I have a 3 hp saw so power shouldn’t be a problem. I read the previous response, that a stabilizer isn’t necessarily needed. Is there any downside to picking the thick kerf blade?
Next question to all you WWII users out there. When I received my blade the logo and lettering appears worn, similar to what a blade looks like after it’s been used a bit. Is that expected? I expected a new blade to have crisp sharp lettering, particularly a $100 blade, not this one. Anyone else experience this? I’m trying to decide whether I got a bad one or not. thanks
So did Powermatic hook you with with the sweet saw? *Jealous*
Just got a craftsman 14″ a while back. My fist BS, so some of the things you may consider common sense are new to me. Thanks for going through the setup. (shopping list; T-9 Boeshield, renaissance wax, silicon carbide stone :)
I have five bandsaws (1 14″ powermatic–my own) and 4 (2 Laguna’s, 1 Yates-American and one Ricon) at the school that I teach wood working. Your information is good and accurate. I prefer the ceramic guides of the Laguna. The carter on the Yates-American is adequate. The Ricon sucks. It would be nice to have the time to do all that you suggest. But alas, most of the time I am not sure what my name is. It reminds me of an old wood worker and wholesale wood salesman that had a triple exposed picture of a rooster that said, “I am so confused that I do not know where to put my pecker”. Thanks for the good work.
hi, this was great. I just found you guys a few weeks ago and been having fun looking at your sites. Both of you are entertaining and the combined effort is a hot. Try getting into Public TV or broadcasting. Your topica are good, can’t wait till the next one.
Yeah, congrats on your first “episode.” It was smooth-listening and I look forward to the next one. Who would have thought…a frickin’ online radio show for woodworkers! Love it.
This was great! To be totally honest, I didn’t think I would find it as entertaining or informative as your video podcasts. I decided to check it out anyway. I’m sure glad I did. The topics were very spot-on for what I needed to know, and the discussion was lively, frank and informative. Thanks Mark and Matt!
Gentlemen,
Excellent show. I now have even more motivation to keep building projects. In fact I have begun building a Mission style Entertainment Center and I have a question. I’m up to the building of the cabinet doors which will have a pane of seeded glass in each. How do I add mullions to the cabinet doors? I want the glass to obviously sit behind them in a rabbit.
Thanks,
Ted
I like Lennox, but that is primarily because David Marks always used Lennox and I like their cut quality. I occasionally play with Timberwolf blades as well. THe other brands you mentioned all have great reputations too, so I would not recommend against them. In general, as long as you stay away from the cheapie brands, you can’t really go wrong.
Just finished listening to your first joint podcast and, I must say, it was very enjoyable. You guys work well together and I’m looking forward to many more.
I haven’t done any real woodworking since I was in high school a few (30) years ago and I’m looking to get back into it a bit. I e-mailed Marc about a month ago stating that I have decided to turn my garage into a wood working shop. I have since resolved that I need to build a shed or two to accomodate all the stuff in the garage so my first woodworking project (not exactly the woodworking I had in mind)will be a 10×14 shed. If that comes out good I’ll build a second one and then get the garage cleaned out to begin the transformation.
I’m looking forward to any tips I can get from you guys. Keep up the great and fun work…..it’s really appreciated!
Great show, I can’t wait for more. The Internet is really starting to take off for woodworkers. There are so many really good sites out there now, and yours and Matt’s are at the top of my list.
Hello again. I finished my hardwood floor and applied water based Trek + one of three different ways. The first coat I used a brush and all went well – some lap marks but no big deal. The second coat with a paint pad for water based poly – went well but not as good as a mohair roller. No air bubbles and dried perfect and took so little time and effort. One question though. Before the floor was finished and just bare wood it looked and felt like glass. After the coats and buffing in between each it doesn’t look as flat. Almost like the poly seeps between the cracks and lowers versus the center of the wood which gives a less than flat look. I was thinking of buffing after the final coat with 600 grit paper. Any suggestions? Thanks again.
Hey Moe. By no means am I a floor finisher. I can only apply what I know about furniture finishing to your situation. Perhaps someone with floor experience can chime in.
Usually with furniture, you can sand your finish coat flat after you apply a coat or two of the finish. So any little dips or valleys will be taken care of. Then when you apply your final coat, it is glass smooth and flat. Now doing this on a larger scale is a whole different story. And hopefully someone else can chime in.
As for the final buffing, 600 grit would work fine but it will give you a satin finish. Assuming thats what you are looking for, you are good to go. Just let the floor cure for several days to a week before sanding. And use mineral spirits as a lubricant.
Nice! I truly enjoy flipping through pages of magazines, but this is future of informative woodworking and you can take it anywhere – great podcast guys! Marc you hit it on the head with pricing…you have to know your market and the individuals. My audience are those interested in “conversation pieces” (for lack of better terms) and fine joinery, not something that can be duplicated through a large retailer. A price tag comes with that. New formula (cost of materials + labor + price of new 3 HP Powermatic Cabinet Saw)You think I can get away with that on a cutting board? :-)
the file is just an MP3 so it should play within your browser. Perhaps you need to enable some sort of media recognition within the browser itself. But most current versions of browsers should recognize the MP3. If not, you can always right click on the link, and save the file to your hard drive. Then you can use just about any media player to listen to the file. Alternatively, you can download ITunes and get all the files, including the videos, from there.
I can’t get enough! Great job on the podcast, although I also prefer the vid podcasts better – just more meat and potatoes with the vids.
The average joe, wannabe, woodworking hobbist rarely gets a chance to talk to a pro or experienced hobbist. For many of us, woodworking clubs and classes are very difficult to get to depending on where you live. Relying on books/videos can only get you so far, so to have the podcasts and online resources that are now so accessable makes learning this hobby so much easier. Thanks for all you efforts…
I liked the format of the show and it reminded me of the TwiT podcast. Any chance you’ll be getting special guests to come on and talk about their experiences?
Marc,
Regarding the Varathane polyurethane problems, I was discussing a poly project with a Sherwin-Williams rep. and he cautioned me not to use shellac as a base for polyurathane. Sounds like you’ve used it before without any problems, but it was worth mentioning.
Allen
Hey Allen. Thanks for the tip. I have indeed used shellac many many times under various urethanes and oil/varnish mixtures. Shellac is an excellent “universal binder” for all sorts of top coats. To be more specific, dewaxed shellac. That may be where the SW rep is coming from. I would not coat a standard shellac surface with poly. But truthfully, there is even some debate going on as to the validity of that theory. Either way, I usually use a 1/2 pound to 1 pound cut of dewaxed shellac as a light sealer. The shellac I used for that particular project was Bullseye SealCoat, which is indeed dewaxed.
Hi,
Great job on the pod cast! Keep em coming. I’ve been doing a bunch of research the last couple of weeks on pricing your work and I think you are right on the money. I would just add that in deciding a shop rate to strongly consider your overhead (operating cost) and factor that in to what you want to make per hour.
The logo on my new Forrest WWII blade also looked worn, but I didn’t worry about it because I knew it was a new blade. My saw uses an unusual size: 12” with a 5/8” arbor.
Anyway, I only use either Forrest or Festool blades. By the way, you can send your Festool blades to Forrest for sharpening. Oh, I guess I will put out one exception: if I’m just cutting rough lumber like 2×4s, I would use just any cheap blade like Dewalt. Why wear a good blade down when the cut quality really isn’t that important?
Sounds like you’ve got something here! This could really take off.
By the way,I agree with the two listeners who likened “Wood Talk Online” to NPR’s “Car Talk.” But I want to know which one of you is Click and which one is Clack? (Now you need a tag line, you know, like the Magliozzi’s, “Don’t drive like my brother!”)
As you get deeper into this thing, you might consider adding show notes to either or both of your websites, for links or other references you make during the podcast.
Congratulations, you’re off to a great start! Keep it up and good luck!
Hey Charles. There are two ways to view the videos, either right on the page with the flash video, or either one of the two quicktime MP4’s. If you have updated versions of your browser and Quicktime, you should be able to see the files. If not, there could be any number of reasons why. And unfortunately that goes a bit beyond my troubleshooting expertise. You can always try to download ITunes and subscribe to the show that way. The videos will all play withing ITunes.
Marc — since you’re into technology, I thought I’d pass along a site I tried out last night: http://www.talkshoe.com. You can have a live show there (and it records to mp3) and listeners can join muted and “raise a hand” to be unmuted (by the host) or chat questions. Pretty slick, tho it does currently require a download. Thought I’d pass it along as a cool option for having a talk show.
Hey Mike. We are familiar with TalkShoe and if we ever decide to do a live show, that’s probably where we will run it. I listen to a number of podcasts that use that system. Its very cool. Thanks for the suggestion.
hi, i enjoyed the show. great topics and sound advice. i really like the wood whisperer show. i know what you mean about no a/c, marc. we are rebuilding our swamp cooler this week. anyway keep up the good work.
Continuing the blade conversation, what are your thoughts on dado blades? I’ve been looking and they seem to go as low as $50 for Grizzly set all the way up to almost $300. Frued looks to have an 8″ “professional” offering for $95 which is the way i’m leaning, but wanted to hear from the experts first.
The high end dado blades are awesome. But they are incredibly expensive. Since a dado is not for everyday use, I see no reason to buy the $300 models. The Freud unit you mentioned is an excellent value and gets really good reviews. I have recommended that blade many times in the past. I think you will be happy with the results.
hey, love your shows very educating. I learn alot from them.
We have a night stand in our bedroom.That has white rings on it.I am guessing it came from when I was ill my wife put a pan that had a ice bag in it.A couple days later it had a white ring on it.I tryed wax, putting saelac on it no good results. Can you give any advice.
Thanks Dan
I have had the same issues with African Mahogany that Ron has mentioned. A couple of other furniture makers I know of told me that was the tendancy of African Mahogany and that “Genuine” Mahogany costs more per bf but that they had less loss.
I made a mahogany table with curved legs. I made 7 legs to get 4 good ones, and they would never twist until the final cut. One twisted so bad from end to end it looked like I had wrung water out of it!
Marc, I want to thank you for this pod cast on tune up for band saws. I went and made all the adjustments to my band-saw after watching it and ,what do you know, It actually can re saw wood now with out drifting. Even with my bad eyes I was able to re saw a piece of willow with little to no drifting. Again I thank you.
Lance
(charger1966)
I work with western maple very regularly and recieve stock from 3 different suppliers. I now only accept stock from 2 suppliers due to the way they dry thier wood.
This supplier drys thier wood way to quickly and at higher temputures which induce a great deal of stress which in turn damages my equipment and increases the danger of injury to me. The stock also exibits blown cells that are difficult to see until you have cut into the stock.
Just recently I recieved some of this stock form my local supplier mixed in among the lift. I imediatly contacted the supplier and requested the wood be taken back and replaced.
I may have more pull due to the volume of wood I purchase but I firmly believe, if you have a good relationship with your wood supplier, they should either replace or provide a discount on the stock you recieved.
Follow up on my buy of WWII blades from Amazon. I contacted Amazon, told them they shipped me the wrong blade, told them I wanted the 1/8 kerf. They were great, got right back to me, said they would drop the 1/8 kerf blade in the mail, free shipping. They did all that, except, you guessed it, it was another 3/32 kerf blade. So I’m good with that now. I’ve decided to stick with the thin kerf blade.
The new blade, nice new packaging, looks sharp, and it has the same worn out looking letters as the first blade. I’m assuming that Forrest just prints thin worn out looking letters on the blades. Dont know why, but two for two looks like a pattern.
Well thats a bummer. I meant to respond before but forgot. It does seem like the worn printing is just the way the blades are produced. I have yet to see a Forrest blade with a nice crisp label.
Hey Nick. Some folks certainly do believe that the wider blades would be better for thin veneer. From my experience, I have seen little difference in cut quality between 3/4″ and 1/2″ blades. So since 1/2″ blades are cheaper, I stick with the 1/2″. Plus the 1/2″ blades are more versatile in terms of cutting tighter curves.
hey craig i bet when you herd that you were going to be paying two bucks a board foot you thought, wow i never got boards for that price at home depot or lowes. craig i have had coustomers that paid extra for the worm holes. hunting lodges and the cabin on the lake owners go gaga for the rustic look. so dont consider worm holes a defect any more than you would a highly figured chunck of maple just adjust the board to the project.
but if you must get rid of the worm holes the easy to do it is with a plug cutting bit use a small section of the board that matches the wood surrounding the hole and run the grain in the same direction and wormholes are gone.
wait scratch all that and just send the boards to me and i will deal with those pesky wormholes.
good luck and remember keep your hands and spouse away from sharp objects in the shop.
One of the things I was waiting for you to talk about with regard to the bandsaw blade tension was detensioning the blade after use. I always seem to forget to do that, and I’ve been told it is better for the saw and the blade to do so. Is this something you practice?
Marc,
I greatly enjoyed this show, you hit several topics I’ve been researching this week myself! First, I’m the guy who discovered you by finding your 6″ Powermatic jointer on Craig’s List, and since I missed out on that buy, I was pleased to hear you recommend the 8″–I feel much better now;) Second, you covered shop lighting, and while browsing shopnotes.com and listening to your podcast at the same time, I ran across this decent article on fluorescent shop lighting from their online sample magazine, which might be helpful to your listeners: http://www.shopnotes.com/files.....-46-47.pdf
Thanks for the excellent content! I really appreciate your no-nonsense perspective on woodworking. I’m an engineer by day and a decidedly amateur/hobbyist woodworker by night/weekend; lacking the freedom to apprentice or train with a master, learning from articulate and down-to-earth experts like yourself is a tremendous asset.
Now, to my comment… Real mayonnaise, as you say, is mostly composed of oil; if oil were the only thing you needed to remove the white rings, then the “folk remedy” would probably be to just apply vegetable oil to the stain. So unless Helman’s or Miracle Whip have started giving woodworking advise, there is something deeper going on. :)
Let’s look at what else is in Mayo… Real Mayo contains vegetable oil, eggs (mostly yolks), and an acid, such as lemon juice. It may also contain flavor enhancers such as salt and commercial products will contain some preservatives. Some products that claim to be Mayo are really just fancy industrial chemical concoctions, so who knows what’s in them.
Now, eggs, particularly the yolks, are powerful emulsifiers. This means, as you know, that they contain molecules which are capable of bonding to both water and oils. Soap is another emulsifier, but doesn’t taste nearly as good :) Compared to soap, the lecithin in yolks is much a weaker emulsifier, but it does the job.
I would speculate that real mayonnaise, applied to a water stain, would be able to “cross” or penetrate the lacquer and absorb the water; subsequent cleaning with furniture oil would probably wipe any mayo residue away. It makes sense to me that it might work, though I haven’t had occasion to try it.
One point is that you would have to use a “real” mayo — one which contains eggs, oil, and not much else. Many products in the supermarket are not true mayo. You could also make your own; Joy of Cooking’s recipe is quite good. If you’ve never had fresh, home-made mayo on your favorite sandwich, you haven’t truly lived. Just remember that its shelf life will be short, so keep it cold until use and dispose of any unused portion after a few days.
Another advantage of home-made mayo is that you know that it hasn’t been pasteurized, which, AFAIK, would reduce the lecithin’s emulsifying juju.
Hey Thomas. I personally think it depends on your usage. If you use the saw at least once a week, (or just spin the tires a half turn), I dont see any issue leaving the bandsaw tensioned. And unless you have a quick release mechanism on your saw, tensioning and detensioning every time can be a real pain as well as lead to an inaccurate tension setup. I know you can count the number of turns, but after a while, that going to get pretty old. So call me lazy, but I usually dont worry about it too much.
My great hope is that the “worm” is long gone. I would move that wood somewhere warm, but not inside or near my woodpile. I have a buddy who worked at a nearby dealer, and once they got a load of wood flooring that had been infested with powder-post beetles.
The larvae were largely dormant, only a worm hole or two was showing. The lot got sold, and installed, clear coated. Then the home owner started seeing new holes with a small pile of powder near the whole. Yikes. You can imagine the rest. Not one to instill wide spread panic, I just thought it important to mention; in case Craig’s dealer might be unethically unloading his problem on downstream users.
For another option, I’ve found a light coat of Watco’s natural Danish Oil will help with this blotching problem common with open grain woods. I believe your answer to the endgrain may be the only way to fix that, however.
Marc, your answer concentrated on end-grain. I have had similar uneven absorption problems when staining face-grain of maple. I would be interested in your comments on face-grain problems.
Good point. Uneven absorption in face grain can be prevented by using a light sealer coat of de-waxed shellac (1/2-1 lb cut). There are also commercial conditioners that do a decent job although I never really use them. Now if you plan on adding color (which is usually where the absorption issues show up), you should try spraying dye if you can. Thats the ultimate solution. If you cant spray, then try using a gel stain. Gel stains don’t absorb quite as much as a regular stain and will help prevent major blotchiness.
For the average person, a shellac sealer and gel stain are a g solid method. Just experiment on scrap to get the right balance of shellac. Too much will not let the stain absorb at all.
Posted for Wally.
I have also found that applying boiled linseed oil to the end grain of almost any kind of wood retards the absorption of an oil-based stain. You just have to apply the stain while the oil is still wet otherwise the dried linseed oil may prevent you from getting the desired hue to match the rest of the stained piece.
If you’re a bit skittish about how much stain will be absorbed, try wiping the stain off after a minute and check the result. If it’s too light just apply another coat of stain and keep repeating this process until you match the tone of the rest of the wood.
I also experimented with a latex-based stain and boiled linseed oil on the end grain and was pleased with the results. This experiment was done with pine so I have no idea how it will work with other species of wood.
It’s amazing how well some of your podcast releases are timed just when I need them! I needed to get some more clamps when you released “the big squeeze” and now I’m ready to sharpen up my card scraper to do the final leveling of the workbench top I’m building. Are you spying on me?
Great video. Once you figure out the scraper it is about the most economical tool in the shop….
The only thing I would add is that if you are new to scrapers do not give up. It will take you several times to get the sharpening down but once you get it right you will see how easy it is….
Great video, it stirred my curiosity about card scrapers. Over at the Lie-Nielsen website on their scrapers page, they have card scrapers and scraper planes…what are the differences between the two?
Well the card scraper is exactly what you see in the video. A thin piece of steel with a hook on it. The way you sharpen it and the way you use it give you an exceptional amount of control over the aggressiveness and quality of cut.
Now a scraping plane works on the same principal by putting a hook on the edge of a blade. But the scraper planes have a much thicker blade. They are more like plane blades than anything. And there is usually a bevel on the blade as well, which is not the case on a standard card scraper. With a bevel, you can create a much more aggressive hook. The body of the scraper plane itself gives you a great deal of control over the angle of attack and depth of cut.
I used to own the small one, but I wound up never using it. A much cheaper option would be a Stanley #80 cabinet scraper. It works as I described above but I find the actual tool easier to use. I do all of my aggressive scraping using this tool.
You know, I have received so many comments about “being on tv” that I decided to look into it. Apparently there are some big time requirements to even be considered. You have to have your show filmed by a nationally-recognized production company and you have to have a show that has not aired in any way yet. That knocks me out on both counts. :)
I think we are all happier in our little internet community anyway. I dont want to go all Hollywood on you guys. lol
great show as usual, Marc. I’m new to card scrapers and I have a few quick questions if you don’t mind. First, when honing the sides, you only hone one side, correct? and when burnishing do you first burnish the honed side or the non honed side flat? Also, when creating the hook, do you burnish with the angle down towards the honed side or non honed side?
Just a newbie trying to get a grasp on the subject…
I agree with you, Marc, on the TV thing. Especially DIY Network. Ask DJM if he would do that again. I think we both already know the answer to that one. Besides, you’re well on your way to being as well known as David already!
Love the talk/show, keep’em coming. Always get some handy and useful info. Like the fact that your birthdays are back to back…what a pair of April Fools.
I would definately stay away from DIY. From what a little birdie on my shoulder told me, David has got nothing but the shaft from DIY. I find it very insulting that you can buy episodes of WoodWorks on Amazon and David does not receive a dime of that money. Nice morals DIY. Needless to say, I have cancelled my DIY and follow Marcs work instead.
good podcast, and ditto on the curved scraper appeal.
wrt the tv talk, is DJM David Marks? Yeah, I think I know where Scott is going with his thought. I attended one of David’s seminars at one of the Woodwrking Shows a couple of years ago and I got the sense that the tv folks expected quite a bit to be crammed into the 1/2 hour show (and on their terms). I also wonder whether your creativity and spontaneous nature would be stifled.
Marc, great site. I enjoyed the 4 segments for the arts and craft table. Could you repeat the stages / coats of finish for the table. ie. Minwax stain and then . . .
Since this thread has taken a turn toward your
illustrious career, I really think it’d be great if you discussed your approach(in more depth than you have) of the business side of woodworking. You’ve obtained some good sponsors. I, myself, want to keep my love of woodwork a hobby that sometimes pays for itself. I think for a 30 year old kid your doin’ great!
Marc,nice job on your sight. Their is one thing that should be address to us woodworking want to bees.You must notice that as a professional to woodworking, we as a group are making mistakes that you pick up instantly.That might be a topic one time,it would be interesting to hear your thoughts. Thanks Randy
Sure Ron. The table was hit with the Minwax cherry stain first, followed by a coat of pre-catalyzed sealer (Sherwin Williams). Then a light 320 grit sanding. THen about 4 coats of Sherwin Williams Precatalyzed Lacquer.
Marc, great site and I love the videos. You showed how to fold the blade, but what I was waiting for was the safe way to unfold the blade. I don’t have a bandsaw yet (but I’m always keeping an eye out for a deal!), so maybe unfolding a blade is not a big deal.
Hey Mike. Sorry my reply is late.
When honing the sides, I actually hone both sides. In fact, I do all 4 edges at the same time. I only did one side in the video for simplicity. So you will then burnish each honed side. If you only honed one edge (like I did in the video), you would burnish the honed face. And same thing goes for creating the hook. You will put your burnisher on an angle toward the honed side. But when you do all 4 edges, you of course burnish all four sides. So now you will have 4 fresh edges to work with. And technically speaking, you can do the short sides of the scraper as well, giving you a total of 8 fresh edges.
Hey Greg. The curved goose-neck scrapers are burnished exactly the same way. It just takes a little bit longer because you need to keeping moving the blade around so that every area gets a good hook on it.
One other difference is that the steel used for plane blades these days is probably a lot harder than the steel used for plane blades back when I was in junior high shop class. Today we have access to hard A2 steel plane blades, and my bet is that back then the planes in my junior high school shop had basic carbon steel blades, which were not as durable.
But I agree — storing planes blade down is the way to go.
I too store my planes blade down – and my shop teacher and Dad would have a fit except that I glued a +/- 1/4″ strip to the bench just back from where the nose of the plane rests. Therefore, the blade is “safe” and not resting on anything.
I was in elementary school shop so long ago that planes hadn’t been invented. ;-)
But seriously, why not retract the blade and store it any way you want? While working with the plane, put it on the bench either way, but down should be safe… unless you have a few loose screws lying around on the bench. ;-)
Why do we always get caught up in how we handle our tools. If you wreck your tool putting down incorrectly you will learn your lesson for next time. Fine Woodworking teaches us alot of things regarding “ideal” shop practice that I still today don’t follow and, by observation of others, notice others are the same. Lets all get along and not get to religious regarding proper handling of our precious tools.
I would never put the plane bladedown due to the fact that if the plane moves that can cause damage. When one is controlling the motion there really is no issue, however, when the plane is moved thru e.g. vibration, that causes damage than accumulates. Let air touch the blade, not wood.
Another thing is this: when two materials are always touching there is bound to be excess wear and tear!
Hi, I know both explanations and learnt in the past to store them sideways.
So I did not bother how to put them.
But recently I made some new doors in my shop. When making the final fit, while the (too heavy) doors were hanging, I used some block planes and profile planes. I soon found out that putting the planes with the blade on the concrete floor was not the best way to keep them sharp. I then thought : “Oh, That’s why I learnt to put them sideways. It will come from the old days when not all wood workers had nice benches, and you had to put your tools on whatever surface you had.(same for chisels: do not store them on the sharp edge, but rather with the edge floating above the surface)
Does this make sense?
Hey Andreas everyone has different views on how to store planes. set it flat and that makes you an idiot, lay it on the side and run the risk of hurting your self or the edge by bumping it. well they are all wrong. only I do it the right way! Ok stop laughing. really the way I store mine is with a rubberized magnet on the bottom, you know like the the ones the drug store and bank gives you with a calendar to stick on the fridge but you throw it away instead. just cut it to fit your plane, stick it on and problem solved. you can store your plane how ever you want to now.
oh yeah, has anyone else noticed that when you have a sliver in your finger your spouse calls it a splinter but when your spouse gets one its called a plank?
lol. It does indeed say to speak your mind. You know, I just want to go on record as saying that my wife never gives me the proper amount of sympathy when I get a splinter (or a cut for that matter). She gives me that look that says, “See. Thats what you get for being a woodworker.”
Ok, resume the hand plane debate. :)
First of all you never put your plane blade side down on a finished piece that is just common sense.
Second, if you put the plane blade side down, there in no way that the blade will loose it’s edge. The only way that that can happen is by use. If the plane sits there for a year, the blade will be as sharp as it was the day ou put it down.
I agree there is nothing wrong with storing you planes blade down.
In the Woodworking Online podcast #5 (Things They Didn’t Teach You in Shop Class” Doug Hicks talks about this topic. He basically explains what Mark said in his original answer. In case you are still worried that the blade will be damaged then he shows a shop made holder with basically a dado to fit the blade that looks very practical and easy to build.
Never mind the planes, check out your homepage – did anyone tell you your hat is on backwards? Just kidding, Marc. Actually, there is another vodcast sponsored by a well-known wood crafts retailer where the fellow making comments either at the end or the beginning sets his plane down on it sole in a shelf.
A guy demoing lei neilsen planes made the point that storing a plane on its side can knock the blade out of alignment. Although more than half the time I put it on it’s side. Old habits die hard…
As a professionnal furniture and cabinet maker, i keep my planes stored in their original boxes or blade down in a storage drawer. If I’m so scared of damaging the blade or slipping a finger next to it, I simply retract it! Don’t worry, steel is in fact much harder than wood and I’m more concerned about dropping the plane on the floor than siting it blade down on the bench.
Mark,
I was just reading Bob Flexner’s book on finishing, and he discussed the issue of endgrain staining darker in one section.
But he said you don’t really have to sand any HIGHER grits than what you sanded the long grain, you just have to sand it BETTER. He said the whole process of end grain getting darker than long grain is because it isn’t sanded as smoothly, so it takes the stain more readily.
He demonstrated with pictures, showing that sanding the endgrain to the same grit, but sanding it longer to smooth it better, produced a finished piece that did not stain any darker than the long grain.
I haven’t yet had a chance to give it a try, but I wondered if you’d read that and what your thoughts were on his process.
Anything that saves me from having to jump up one or two more grits is worth trying, in my book.
Phenomenal Mark – Putting a good hook on a scraper has until now been a bit of a hit or miss affair but your video showed me something I wasn’t doing (using the burnishing rod on the scraper edge whilst it lays flat on the bench before trying to roll over the edge itself with the scraper held vertically in a vice). I tried it and it worked great.
I completely agree on the time and experience thing Marc said. It is hard for a novice (including me) and can be intimidating when there are so many types of wood to pick from. Don’t let the challenge discourage you – it is a great opportunity to learn!
I would also suggest that if your friend is working in a cabinet shop, they might be of assistance as well. If they are letting you pick through the shorts, they would likely offer some pointers on the different pieces in the pile.
As usual I enjoyed the latest Woodtalk Online Episode, entertaining and insightful. Check both your websites daily for new entries. I got my new issue of Woodworkers Journal day after I sent my last question about t-boxes and the cover story was about T-boxes that and a re-viewing of The King and His Castle was able to answer my question as to what a T-box was. News from WV………MY NEW JOINTER IS HERE! Made the trip to Woodcraft in Parkersburg, WV and Just got back. I wanted to haul it up to my shop which is a free standing building about 100 yards behind my house (uphill) but with no help at this late hour I haven’t even been able to get the 500lb beast out of the truck bed. I wound up buying the 6″ Powermatic and I’m glad since I got the free Powermatic toy truck with it. (A definite deal closer) I guess I just had to write someone who can relate to my enthusiasm especially Matt since he is squaring every board in his shop with his new Grizzly. Keep up the Podcast I enjoy them almost as much as 3 stooges reruns. Oh I do have one confession to make….my wife is a knitter.
Roger in WV
handle: DocK
I just found an awesome book called “What Wood is That? : A Manual of Wood Identification” by Herbert L. Edlin which contains forty actual wood samples. http://s44.photobucket.com/alb.....ZVPSVL.jpg
My wife and I love your Cutting Board Vid, especially the “….cuttinnnnnnnnng boarrrrrrd” part. The phrase is repeated many times a week around our house.
Thanks for the awsome episode and keep up that sense of humor.
SawStop has a much less expensive contractor model coming out in the fourth quarter of the year. Although I think it may be more of a hybrid saw because it has dust collection. I looked at the big $3500 model at Woodcraft and WOW nice feel. I just can’t afford it even after loosing my index finger 11 months ago. This new $800 version I can definitely afford. I had no idea how much trouble an amputation is and I was lucky by only losing one finger. For 6 months I couldn’t even chuck a drill bit because I had no grip strength. A year later I still have pain and swelling. This year I can finally start a line trimmer and feel normal which is good because I have a huge list of things not done last year. I never thought how good it would feel to just pick up a tool and use it effortlessly again. I’m also lucky I had a desk job that didn’t require strength. A friend of mine at work has a son whose dream is making guitars but he didn’t want him taking shop until he discovered they had sawstop as most of the local schools now. I didn’t like them doing the hot dog demo for the kids because I thought proper fear is necessary.
As to cost, a brake is $65-$70. On the other hand, I had Aetna so ER visit $50, drugs $25, rehab $20, doctor $15, surgery $100 (actual cost over $16,000) so that shouldn’t be that much. Well my taxes show an expense of around $2000 of these nickel and dime expenses.
As to reaction times, I got an email from Mr Gass explaining blade penetration per millisecond based on speed of the hand. Basically, since I slapped the blade the finger was off before I could even send the signal to pull my hand away.
I don’t know about you. I’m sure glad Marc posted the video. I didn’t realize I missed so much due to the fury of chatting that was going on. Wasn’t it intense!
It was the best 2-hour of Internet land I’ve ever had. Great Job! Great Fun! You are the “King”
Sorry I missed the live event. It’s nice to have the replay available. The additional links are great as well. It looks like I don’t have an excuse for getting the car into the garage any more :-(.
My son is doing a report on the density of wood.
He has picked:MDF, Walnut, Maple, Doug fur, and a few others.
Where can he find info in this regard.
Thanks
Bjarne
Remember that Google is your friend. Type in Density of XXXX, replacing the x’s with your material of choice, and I am sure you will find exactly what you are looking for.
You also might want to search fro specific gravity for an explanation of how the density of wood is typically reported.
Cant believe i missed the live show, cant wait till the next one. When is the next “real” podcast coming out Marc? This one was awesome but i cant wait until one with an actual project comes out.
Well, its still hard for me to predict when the “real” podcasts will air. I am still trying to balance getting a few major commissions done while coming up with ideas for the podcast.
I plan on doing a few podcasts based on techniques I will be using for these upcoming projects. Two of the topics I hope to cover are dovetails and home-sawn veneers. But I cant film them until I am at that point in the project. Also, we have the assembly table project coming out soon. Just waiting for the green light from FineWoodworking.com.
So hold tight. We are working toward more and more steady content. But there are a number of loose ends to tie up before we get there.
Great live show but my wife (the knitter) was upset the show ran into the dinner she prepared and I wouldn’t leave the computer. Just finished watching the rerun from the website and the sound was much better, less of the reverb/echo and the issue with the lapel mike. All in all a great broadcast lots of info, but you forgot to roll the credits at the end of the show.
Wow, that was a neat tour Marc! Very informative. I like the way you managed to answer some tough landmine questions such as the dust collection pvc or the sawstop questions and not cave in with the safe answers. Keep up the good work my friend
I had noticed the echo when I opened the Ustream “open in large separate view” window. This is so you could view the video portion over your entire computer screen. When I had moved back to normal view, the echo stopped?
I read somewhere (long ago) that this mix (boiled linseed oil, turpentine, and spar varnish in equal proportions) was a favorite of Sam Maloof. Because I don’t have a dedicated finishing area this finish works great in my less than dust free shop. It does, however, take several days to build up 3 or 4 coats.
Hey Nick. That basically just a wiping varnish formulation. Thats one of my favorites. Dries faster and offers more protection. But some people like the addition of the oil as it becomes a more “close to the wood” finish. But as long as you dont apply too many coats, the wiping varnish will produce a similar finish.
The BLO, tung,poly mix comes from Rockler. I went there looking for the individual components and saw it with Sam Maloof on the label. It works great for me, but I’m dummy and was following Dave Knipfer’s Rude and Crude method. Where can I learn my finishing options? I make bandsaw boxes and the finish takes 5 days counting lining the drawers.
Frank- Your best bet is one of the classic finishing reference books in The Wood Whisperer Store. They will generally outline all of your finishing options. Using a wiping varnish would speed up your finish process.
Ron- The Arm-R-Seal is a wiping varnish itself. So you are starting with an oil/varnish blend (seal-a-cell), and top coating with a wiping varnish.
Many people think you can just go right to the wiping varnish and save time. Using both seal-a-cell and arm-r-seal will not improve the durability. It just changes the look. I would try both methods on scrap to see if its worth the extra effort and time to use the Seal-a-Cell.
This is also my favorite finish. 1/3 tung oil, 1/3 boiled linseed and 1/3 polyurethane. This is the Sam Maloof finish. Builds quicker than the formula with mineral spirits. You can maintain with 1/3 linseed, 1/3 tung and 2 handfuls of shredded beeswax.
Hi Guys! I enjoy the Wood Talk Online episodes and listen to them while I’m out walking to get some exercise.
In listening to episode 6, there was a question from a power tool user asking about developing his hand tool skills with a goal of creating hand cut dovetails (or at least that’s what I thought I heard). You and Matt immediately went into describing the basic hand tools one should have – and while I agree with the tools you mentioned, I don’t think that was the question. As I recall, the question dealt with what was needed to acquire the skills to cut dovetails by hand. Here’s my answer:
1. Practice laying out the joint with a marking guage (and/or a cutting guage) and a layout knife. Make sure your layout out cuts are deep enough so your chisel seats in them easily.
2. Practice sawing to a line. Cut to the line but do not cut away the line.
3. Practice chiseling to a line.
Hey guys. Thanks for getting to my inlay question in this Episode. I was able to get some results that I am happy with. I will be posting the finished project on the LumberJock site sometime tomorrow. Check it out. Look for USCJeff.
Blip does the flash conversion so unfortunately I dont have control over that process. I will re-encode the file at a smaller bit rate, which should reduce the file size and repost the new file. Hopefully that will fix the problem. Sorry for the trouble guys.
Good work once again Marc! I was cooking while I listened and watched so I may have missed it but I would be interested in seeing the Festool table setup in action along with your comments on it vs using a table saw for certain kinds of cutting.
I wanted to echo your comments about sensing a kickback just before it happened and the importance of that kick off power switch you added to your saw. I’m a few days from my one year anniversary of my amputation. Just before the accident I heard the sound change and could feel the pull om the workpiece. Unfortunately I froze because I had no idea what to do about it because I could not reach the recessed power switch and a new I would get hit if I let go with either hand. Unfortunately the wood/saw made the decision for me. There are several things I would do differently but I wish I had a splitter like yours – I now have an MJ splitter. The other is I modified my saw switch like you did so I could now turn the saw off with my knee. Your video was good timing because a magazine had just shown the same set up but seeing you with it was the kick in the A– I needed to build it. I love that kick bar and I recommend it to all your viewers. I forget which video, Marc which was it. Also, I’m headed to Grizzly this weekend to get a jointer – insert angels singing.
Thanks for explaining what you mean by relative dimensioning. That’s the way I woodwork and to be honest I have long felt that I was compensating for my mistakes by working that way. When I see woodworking shows like NYW, it seems like Norm Abrams has a level of accuracy in the way he works that I am never able to consistently obtain so I don’t attempt to cut all my parts to size in advance. I’m glad to hear that I’m not alone in my method of woodworking and would be curious to know if you found out if David Marks works that way as well.
Also, I wouldn’t be surprised if others like Norm used relative dimensioning when making their prototypes since by the time he shoots his show his “project” is a second go-around of anything he does.
With that in mind, the main drawback I find in using relative dimensioning to build a project is that in a small shop like mine a woodworker definately benefits from having both a workbench and an assembly table. Since my assembly table doubles as my table saw outfeed, it can be a pain to have to clear midway through a project so I can return to cutting something on the table saw.
Hey Paul. I think you will find that most pro and old timers are cut to fit kinda guys. No matter how you slice it is the most accurate way to woodwork. THink about how many places you can mess up if you are always trying to cut to a theoretical number. There is error in the tape itself. If you have more than one measuring device in the shop, they may be slightly different. The pencil you use could make a difference in the thickness of your lines. The placement of your line could be off. Then you have to cut to the line, which may not be consistent every time. I think if you asked around, you would find that this method, although perhaps not given a name, is very common. And believe me, Norm works hard to make the project look that easy. And its very easy to hide your flaws in a video.
And I see your point about space. It does make it hard if your assembly table is a shared space.
Another trick to eliminate tear out for the tenons is to scribe the cutting line all around with a striking knife (or stanley knife if no striking knife is available). This will sever the fibres on the surface of the work & stop the tear out.
So that’s what you call that method of construction?? I thought it was the “oops” method:) I don’t think I have ever built a project any other way and to be honest I felt the same way Paul has in thinking I was just simply compensating for my mistakes. Thanks for the clarification:) Now I don’t feel like such a door knob
The Jeff Jewitt finish is the way I am most familiar with when dealing with quarter sawn wood, looks very nice in my opinion. I like the look of the hall table as well. What exactly is the ammonia doing to the wood? Almost looks like it has a bleaching effect of the grain of the quarter saw that would normally be dark.
As I understand it, the ammonia fumes react with the tannic acid in the wood. And the tannic acid levels are very low in the area of the medullary ray flecks. This means they stay a milky white color while the rest of the piece darkens. This is why I prefer this type of finish over the “fuming substitutes”. Most other finishes simply layer color on top of the wood, which will darken up the flecks. Fuming changes the color within the wood, and has little/no effect on the flecks at all.
Its really something specific to woods that have high levels of tannic acid. If I remember correctly, someone over at the WWA forum did an experiment testing various woods and the effect of fuming. Many of the woods changed. But usually not if a favorable way. :)
So I would stick with white oak.
I have to say ” I get my hat off at you”. What you have done on this episode is not easy. To answer all those bombing questions to everyone who ask its mayor league. I enjoyed a lot this Q&A setion. One thing is clear, when you have so may questions from all the woodworking community, you must be doing something good. And most important, you are gaining their respect including mine. I don’t have a big shop ( mine is 10 x 10 )but something is true on this, once I enter that small shop door I’m the king..
Good bless you and my respects to miss Nichole..
Luis
nice job Marc, you make it look all too easy. A quick question – I know from past episodes that you usually wait about 1/2 hour before scraping off the squeeze out when gluing up your panels, but do you scrape immediately with the veneer? It seems as though you’d want to get the other piece of tape on right away to seal up the joint, right?
You know I can’t help thinking about your bunny-bucket-laptop-teleprompter while watching the podcast now…
Great info..
I just started using a vacuum press for veneering and it is pretty exciting to be able glue up large pieces. Do you use a vac press? There are some great websites on how to build your own system for a modest price.
Anyway great show and I look forward to seeing more..
R
Hey mike. I do scrape immediately with the veneer. Reason being that I am dealing with the glue side of the veneer at that point. So if glue gets embedded in the grain its really no big deal. And the second piece of tape could be considered overkill, but I do it so that the joint has no chance of opening up and I can then move the piece around. I need a more elegant solution than the bunny bucket. lol
Skee- Haha. Indeed that was my brad nailer. You’ll see it extensively when I do the assembly table project. :)
Ron- I do have a vacuum press. My current bag is a 4′x4′. I need something bigger for the current project so I will be making a new bag. I am considering making this a podcast as well.
On the topic of drift angles; is there any guarantee that the dift angle will remain the same for a blade if lets say, you have a 1/2 blade for re-sawing, set up the angle, then switch to a 1/4 for some curved cuts, then back to the 1/2 for re-sawing, will the drift angle still be the same for that 1/2 blade or do you have to always check the drift angle when the blade has been removed?
Its very likely that the same blade placed back onto the same saw will have the same drift angle. But due to the fact that the blade might wind up on a different part of the tire, there could be a slight difference. But in most cases, I would say the drift angle will be the same.
If you don’t have a drum sander, couldn’t you run the 1/8 piece off the bandsaw through the planer to smooth/flatten the bandsawn side? Or sand by hand? What do you think?
Its always a little scary planing really thin pieces of wood. Consult your owners manual to see what they recommend as the thinnest stock you should run through. From my experience, most planers will recommend against running stock that thin. And not to mention, when you do run stock that thin, its very easy for the impact of the blades to destroy the piece of veneer.
One option would be to create a sled. you can double stick tape a piece of veneer to a 3/4″ piece of plywood, and run that through the planer. But be cautious. If the veneer comes loose, you can have a real problem. So be sure to secure it well.
The sled method is probably what I would do if I didnt have a drum sander.
speaking of the sled, instead of double stick tape, rip a sheet of melamine to the width of the planer bed, and a few inches longer. screw on a lip under the sled so the rollers wont suck the sled in and you got yourself a planer sled. but many a times you hear *CRACK SLIT TICK CRACK* and then you hear your splines being sucked up into the the pipes.
Even a 3/16″ is scary. My very last piece of flame koa exploded in my planer. It was a headstock over-lay on a guitar I was building.
Eep!!! On to plan B!!!
I got it done but still..should have sanded it.
Just finished watching this 2nd episode and wanted to say thanks for the great production! Please post advance notice so that we can all watch the next one live.
Marc, Are you using an electric die grinder(sic) for your carving. I’ve been planning a 60 gallon two stage a/c, becuz the air driven models use a lot of air. Your thoughts?
Marc, in your shop tour you mentioned how you use rubber mats around your shop to help stop the sore feet you previously had. I know what you mean, but I found that having mats around my shop was a nuisance and potentially something I could trip over because of all the transitions between matted areas and cement floor.
I recently bought some Wolverine work shoes that are great for our needs around the shop. They have non skid bottoms with shock absorbing bottoms as well as inserts. Just another option for you.
I think you guys touched on this in an earlier show. But, when would you use solid lumber for a panel alternating grain orientation or not, or instead using veneer over a substrate. The more I learn, the more it seems smarter to veneer, unless the piece is made of a common wood. ie. pine or poplar, etc.
In many cases, it is “smarter” to veneer. But many times, there is a certain pride that comes with making something out of solid wood. And you might eventually have a customer that insists on solid wood. So you have to strike a balance between what makes the most sense, and what the person wants. But since much of furniture involves a matter of taste and style, the decision to use veneer will always be a personal choice, rather than an necessity.
In my work, more often than not, if there is a flat portion to the piece, it will be a veneered sheetgood.
BOY! You weren’t kidding. This show was PACKED!
I actually had to take notes. It’s not an apprenticeship, but http://www.northwestwoodworking.com/ is one of probably more distance programs available.
Another reason to hate polyurethane glue, a veterinarian friend has performed several emergency surgeries on dogs to remove cured glue from their stomach/bowels. Evidently, dogs love the stuff. I have 3, so none in my shop.
And finally, Matt was correct about RA saw blade spin. You pull thru the wood. So, it would be possible to throw wood at yourself.
I remembered this article in Fine Homebuilding on making a parquet floor. It might be of interest for your caller who was asking about this. It actually look kind of fun, but I never cared for parquet.
Sorry Guys the blade of a radial arm saw does not spin in the direction to cause the wood to come at you. The saw blade spins so that if the blade were to catch the wood the machine is pushed toward you. Usually the machine binds in the wood first causing the stators to eventually burn out. I have a radial arm saw and pointed out how dangerous the tool is in my submitted shop video tour on lumberjocks.
Yeah I thought that was the case. Every time I have used a radial arm its always a matter of controlling the saw itself so that it doesnt jump. The motion of the cut, in theory, should always be toward the fence.
I think Matt and I made this more confusing than it needed to be. lol
God, maybe that’s what I was thinking about..the arm flying at me. My stuff is all stored until I finish my shop…I will still set up the RA saw, it’s only tried to kill me once:)lol
boy – two for one :)
thanks Marc and Matt for answering both my questions. I need to go back to the Woodworks episode but I’m thinking you may be right and I got plastic resin glue mixed up with polyurethane glue. so, I’ll “stick” with (pun intended) TB3 for my project. Great advice, thanks!
Thanks for addressing my leather question, too. When I was looking into it, I did find Christopher Schwarz’s blog. He pretty much did the same thing you or I would do. He grabbed whatever was available at Michael’s. Actually, he even mentions that his first inclination was to cut up one of his wife’s old purses.
I’ll probably just grab whatever I come across locally. My neighbor is now deployed anyway, and I don’t really want to wait until he gets back to add whatever I come up with to his next order.
Other than the leather, the bench is complete. I’ll probably be posting it over at lumberjocks (my screen name there is muzhik) before you wake up and read this.
As usual a very interesting and informative show, but you should have passed the question on which tool to buy (jointer or bandsaw) to your wives. My wife’s philosophy, when you can’t decide buy both.
Hi Mark, I have really enjoyed your videos and have been learning a lot as a result. I just thought I would mention to all potential Sketchup users that the free download version is for non-commercial use. I know that most people don’t read licenses, thus why I mentioned this. If you are using Sketchup for commerical gain, it wouldn’t hurt to pay the small licensing charge associated with the professional version which can be used for commercial gain.
I tend to use wipe-on fiinishes a lot, and what I normally do is this .. .. .. when concluding a finishing session, I grab the applicator rag in one fist, pull the rubber glove (you ARE wearing gloves, right?)off with the rag still in it .. then, put the rag/glove in your other hand and do likewise. Now, if you wish, you can simply put it in the freezer as is or in a secondary container. When you are ready to use it, just take it out, warm it up for a few minutes, and peel off the old gloves.
Episode 16 “Wish You Veneer” is absolutely great and very timely. You have taken the mystery out of cutting veneer for me. Now, to finish it off, I am looking forward to gluing the veneer to the substrate.
Many 2nd hand clothing stores will sell big bags of used T-shirts for next to nothing and the money goes to a good cause. I find most of these work pretty well for rags and you don’t feel so badly about using all you need…Rick
Well, there’s an answer from the MAN himself! Thanks for stopping by Joe.
To answer the other questions, I did wait 24 hours for the glue to dry. You will notice that I generally wear the same clothes throughout my podcasts. I do realize how funny this looks when the viewer knows that a day has passed. But I assure you, the shirt washed at least once while filming. lol. Usually Nicole makes sure my clothes are clean everyday but she was out of town. :)
And from my initial experiences with the poly, the material is much more flexible than the vinyl bag I have. I could see this material conforming easily to just about any shape my little brain could come up with.
Instead of rags I use blue shop towels, kind of like heavy duty paper towels. Be sure to let them dry before putting in garbage. Two weeks ago I didn’t let them dry and noticed smoke comming out of my garbage can. I learned my lesson.
Thank you for sharing this adventure. I’d love to see other content providers talk about and discuss some of their projects that didn’t go as expected. Most of the woodworking shows I watch make it all about “getting it right every time”. I’m positive they edit out the projects that got sideways on them. When filming, they just repeat a step that didn’t go as expected and the show makes it look like it was done right the first time.
Think we can ever get the Yankee to do a blooper reel?
Great video. I’ve been looking at making a bag and was wondering how the heck was I going to get that poly to keep from curling when the solvent is applied. I think I’ll just buy a bag. Thanks!
Hi Marc, I enjoy watching your video’s great job. As for sealing the polyurethane bag, maybe a different approach would be to tape the seams with something like 3M VHB 9473 (very high bond) style tape.
Hey! Looks good! I really enjoy your videos! Quick question, I’m always blowing out brads when nailing into or out of ply. How do you select your nail length as you put your subassmbly together?
Nice project and very timely for a project I’m doing. I’m working what’s basically a base cabinet for my Jet mini lathe. Overall size is 36″ inches tall, 27″ wide and 25″ deep. It has 4 drawers with full extension slides like you have. This will be a tri-use cabinet, main usage is for the lathe, 2nd usage is for table saw extension but now that I’ve seen this video, I can also use if for assembly of small projects like jewelry boxes and small hope chests. I’ve been thinking about how I was going to finish the top and your designs with both the sacrifice surface and polyurethane will do the trick for me. The oak trim with walnut plugs are also another design feature I’ll use. One thing I did add into my design is a fold up extension side as I work in a 2 car garage and have to keep things mobile and able to be stowed away. Thanks for all the tips and hints. Keep up the good work.
I’ve always heard that interior doors are torsion box design with cardboard innards and about an 1/8th” skin on both sides.
Do you think its possible to simply throw on the 1/2″ MDF (that is what you used for skins, right) on both sides of an interior door (or 2 interior doors ganged up) as a way to accelerate the assembly table build-up?
Hey Mark – great video. I’m interested about how you would fit a new piece of hardboard when the time comes. The original piece was easy to get a perfect fit, as you used a flush trim bit. However, because the hardwood sides are glued on, that technique will not work next time. Are there any easy ways to do this? Otherwise, I was thinking of building this with the sides just screwed on, so they can be removed at a later time and so allow any new piece to be flush trimmed again. Friction fit plugs to cover the screws would let me get to protected screw heads. Can you see any problems with leaving out the glue?
Marc, one thing I don’t see in the drawings and didn’t notice in the videos is how you attach the top to the base. I can see it sits on top of the stretchers, which leaves space between the bottom of the top and the case (except where it contacts the stretchers) but not the fastening method.
BasementDweller:
Usually for ply I use 1 1/4″ nails. Thats pretty standard for 3/4″ ply. The best way to make sure you dont have blow out is to check and double check your gun alignment. If the gun is perfectly perpindicular, the brad should fire straight.
Bob: You should post pics of your project in our Flickr gallery. I would love to see it.
Ross: The only problem I can see with your idea is the fact that MDF is not the best material to drive a screw in and out of multiple times. So after a few top replacements, the screws probably wont hold anymore. Refitting a new top really wouldnt be too difficult. Just measure and cut. Any areas that are tight can be relieved with a block plane.
Bob:
Yeah I guess we forgot to mention that. lol. I just drove a few screws through the stretchers into the bottom of the torsion box. With a top as heavy as that, you dont need a whole lot of holding power. So 4 screws in each corner did the trick. As for the resulting gaps, thats where your wires and hoses run for your accessories on the sides.
Randy: I know many folks who have used doors for workbenches and assembly tables with great success. The issue here is whether or not the doors are dead flat. Most likely, they are not. But are they flat enough for most things? Perhaps. Do you have a really high quality and very long straight edge? If so, check the doors and try to find the flattest ones possible. Joining two doors together and keeping the whole assembly flat could get tricky too. So is it a perfect substitution? No. Will it get the job done? Yuppers.
Nicely done. Ironically, my torsion box assembly table needs to be redone right now and I’m inclined to scale down from 4 x 6 to 4 x 4 to conserve shop space.
Did you find 4 x 4 was too small for many projects?
I don’t know if Joe has it but I used to work in a boat shop and we used “Dum Dum” to seal vac bags and to seal the bag to the mold. It is like a long strip of stiff silly putty. It has some thickness to allow for minor misalignments and you can add “Darts” for major misalignment and curves. It can also be re-used a couple of times if your careful. The best part is that it is generally used to seal the bag to the mold even if the mold is a flat panel. This way you don’t have to try and slip your work into the bag. You simpally place the bag over the setup and seal it to the table. Of course you table needs to be air tight and you’ll need a breather cloth.
A stethoscope with the end cut off can really help pinpoint leaks.
Probably in grandmother, sucking and eggs territory here, but did you level the base units to the same degree that you did when constructing the top? I can’t help feeling that the top will mould itself to the base over time (MDF does creep after all), so if the base isn’t dead flat, then eventually neither will your wonderful torsion box be.
Marc, I went to a school that taught us how to vacuum bag composites like fiber glass, and other materials. What we used to seal up the bags was a sticky play-do like material. We even used a play-do press to form it into long strings. It allowed us to change the size of the area to be vacuumed. I have photos of what I am talking about if you would like to see them. But the largest area we cover was 10′ x 5′ and it worked like a charm. Leaking areas only need to be pushed down and your done.
Love the shows Thanks for all the helpful hints, tips, and knowledge.
Well, I cant pretend to know for sure whether or not a torsion box would sag over time. Lets put it this way. Once I place the top on the base, if there is an serious discrepancy I would certainly shim it. I may have just lucked out in that mine was laying pretty much flat at all screw points. So I suppose if you have large gaps, it would be worth the time to shim it. Not to mention, if you have large gaps, you will also have issues installing doors and drawers.
Marc – great podcast! I have been needing to build one of these and have been putting it off – especially since I heard you were working on one for Fine Woodworking. Quick question with respect to the torsion box: The plans call for 3/4″ skins on the top and bottom, yet in the podcast you say they are 1/2″. Does it matter? What do you suggest? By the way, thanks for the drawer sizing tips on the base – great ideas!
Hey Colby. I looked over the drawings and I dont see where it calls for 3/4″ skins. I did use 1/2″ material, but you certainly could use 3/4″ if you wanted to. The main difference is the whole table would be even heavier than it already is. Please let me know where the misprint is and I will try to have it corrected.
UPDATE: We corrected the downloadable plan on Tuesday afternoon after discovering that it called for 3/4-in. skins rather than the correct 1/2 in. skins. This mistake also affected the width of the hardwood trim. The new plan is available on the site.
Mark: Maybe you can print a quick note about this correction for the people who downloaded the plan before the correction was made. Sorry for the inconvenience.
But.. Marc.. oh Marc… how could you let your dear old step dad stand there sucking up all that MDF dust while you wore a full respirator?? Poor poor step dad.. :-)
I actually found the 4×6 to be fine for most projects. I went to 4×6 for two reason: because I could and because I usually have other crap on the table. I just needed more room to accomidate the crap and the projects. :) I think you will be satisfied with a 4×4 on most projects.
This podcast was awesome! I laughed out loud because it reminded me so much of my first trip to the lumberyard. Hilarious and informative at the same time.
I can’t say enough good things about Festool. I have had my tools for a little over three years now (have at least one tool from every category except the domino) and I’m very happy with every piece that I own.
I think in one of your recent video podcasts you were using a router that was not black and green. One of the things that I’ve been worried about with using a router is the amount of dust that a router produces. Could you compare the Festool routers to other manufacturers as far as dust collection is concerned?
So now all you need to do is take some of that Festool knowledge, share it with us, and give us an opportunity to win some Free Festool Schwag (that has a nice ring to it!).
Hey Wilbur. Most routers these days have dust collection attachments. Most work reasonably well. On some models, its pretty clear that the dust collection was an afterthought and as a result using the attachment can be a bit clunky. But they will all collect some dust. I cant say exactly how much since I have had the opportunity to throughly test more than a few different models, including the DeWalt plunge router and the Festool routers. And the Festool was by far the best in terms of dust collection that doesnt make your life miserable. If you want to email me, I would be happy to give you more details about the Festool. But remember that dust collection on routers always comes at a cost. That cost may be visibility or the hose being in the wrong spot. Either way it is a compromise. Finding the brand that is the least inconvenient is the key.
You know, I’ve never really looked past the sticker shock of festool tools. But I notice that (naturally) every contractor here in Germany uses them almost exclusively. Makes me wonder how much cheaper I can pick them up here.
The only problem is that they will be 220V/50Hz models. But maybe I should grab every cordless Festool tool I can justify while I’m here. hmmmm….
Scott, Last year when I was in Germany(my wife is German), I went to a Festool dealer. The prices are about the same and then, yes, you would end up w/ a tool that is not functional in the US electrical world.
I am refinish a wood garage door that the original finish has deteriorated in some areas, but not others. I used a finishing sander to remove the discolored wood and finish as well as to taper out the edge. I thinned the helmsman spar urethane about 20% on the first coat, and used it straight for two more coats. The areas where I sanded have a darker appearance than the unsanded areas, even though it is the same varnish being used and it occurs not only on the exposed wood but the areas that I sanded the finish off of (that had not been damaged), just in order to be able to feather the new finish in easier. I don’t understand why reapplying the same finish to wood that was originally only sanded, with no other sealer or finish, has caused this difference in color to appear. Is it possible that it will lighten up to match the other finish as it dries, or that the mineral spirits thinning caused my finish to penetrate differently?
Marc,
Just reviewed this podcast to see the detail of the wall racks for the clamp storage. I need to build some and I like ypur simplicity. What dimensions did you use for the Bessey rack? It looks like 3/4″ plywood on top and botom.
On the other rack with the 2×2’s and poplar – are the horizontal boards 1×4’s spaced off the 2×2’s? That’s what it looks like in the video.
I do really enjoy your videos and check for them weekly – keep up the good work.
As a beginning amateur woodworker, I’m in deep-learn mode, and I feel so lucky to have found such a generous online teacher. You rock!
I’m the guy with the incredible disappearing garage workshop :) All my tools stow in cabinets, and my workbench is my assembly table and it rolls into the corner at the end of the session. The laminated particle board top of my workbench was sagging in the middle. So I built your torsion box this weekend. Your excellent instructions and video gave me the confidence to try it! I shrunk the plan a bit to 24×48, 2 1/2″ inserts and 7 1/2″ internal box grid, 3/4″ MDF plus 1/4 hardboard top.
I’ve got a few questions for you.
1. I haven’t yet attached a bottom to the box – can I just use 1/4 hardboard to hold it all together, or do I really need the 1/2″ MDF for strength. Trying to slim it down a bit in weight and thickness!
2. I don’t have all the tools I want yet- no brad nailer or hot glue, but I do have a nice freud 8″ dado set. So instead of cutting individual pieces inside the box, I made a 7.5″ box joint jig, and cut 1.25″ dados across full-length inserts so that it all fit together with just glue, no brads. Got the idea here.
It worked pretty well, but I may have cut the dados a bit too tight, and while it worked ok in the dry fit- it was a bit tight during the glue-up, and i had some minor high spots. I planed as well as i could, but the final result was that the table turned out to be not quite dead flat. Could’ve also been less than perfect shimming, or the slightly bowed sheet of MDF didn’t want to settle, or just my inexperience. So my next question is, how flat is good enough? :) Using a long straightedge, it appears to drop about 1/32″ across the 24, and about 1/16″ across the 48 (or a bit more). I could conceivably pull out the screws and try your router-sled approach to flatten up the MDF? Might be an interesting effort. Or do you think I’d just screw it up worse?
3. I’m thinking of trying some more skill-building here and miter the corners of the 4 hardwood sides, rather than butt-joining them. I haven’t been too successful in previous attempts with perfect mitered corners. Hard to get the lengths just right, etc. Any advice?
4. Do you have any suggestions for how to mount a vice to the side of this 4″ top? I have a little wilton that sat flush with my old 2″ top but this new beast is twice as thick!
Hey Rick. Its really tough to say. Since we are talking about weathered wood that has been previously finished, and the finish was damaged, there are a quite a few variables at play. One thing I know though is that once you sand off a finish and refinish it, the wood almost never stains or finishes to the exact same color. At least part of the reason is the fact the sanding can actually drive some of the finish into the grain.
So it is possible that the color will even out over time, but I wouldn’t hold my breath. Just keep in mind that poly finishes are usually not the best finishes for the type of repair you did. The repair is nearly impossible to hide (as you can see). In many cases its necessary to remove finish from the entire surface in order to achieve an even appearance and a smooth finish. So at this point, you may just need to give it time. But if it really bugs you, you may need to refinish the whole door.
I might also suggest trying a higher quality spar urethane that will last alot longer than the Helmsmans. One that I recommend is Epifanes.
1- I do feel its necessary to go with at least 1/2″ material. I suppose you could use something thinner but I cant imagine the long term results being too good. Not to mention, if you ever clamp something to the table, you could easily punch through it. That would be a shame. :)
2- That level of error doesnt sound too bad. Its a good idea to memorize the tables flaws, so that you can decide where to place things on the table. For things like chairs, you want to make sure the legs are perfect, so make sure you find a nice flat area, and keep it in mind in the future. So what Im saying is that the table doesnt need to be perfectly dead flat in all areas. But you should get to know the table so that you can predict for yourself how much that error will effect your work. And no I dont think it would be worth all the effort to do the router sled method.
3- This is generally not the best project to test your skills in this area. The primary reason is that you might not have perfect right angles at your corners. The assembly table really isnt defendant on perfect corners so they might be a little off. If they are, your miters will cause you much headache. So maybe practice them on another project and go for the butt joints on this one. Of course this is just my advice so obviously feel free to do the miters, but dont blame yourself if they dont come out perfect.
4- The only way I know of to get a vice on there is to make the table thinner or get a bigger vice. :) No tricks that I know of to get a small vice on a thick table.
Hey Louis. You are right on both accounts. They smaller rack is just 1×3’s over 2×2 strips. The Bessey racks are just 3/4″ ply screwed to a 2×4. Pretty straightforward. Let me know if you need any more info.
I’m just considering the same issue. I’m not 100% sure of my block-planing skills…
I’m thinking that the hardboard top’s corners and edges are probably pretty safe from dings, due to the hardwood edging.
So when it comes time to replace the top, if its edges look clean, you could unscrew the old top, cut a new top slightly oversize, screw the new one right onto the old top (on the floor or some old ply), and then run your flush trim bit around it, using the old piece as the template? (Then use the same holes in the new piece to screw it onto your assembly table)
The mark of someone who knows what they are doing is the ease in which they make the project seem. This you do in spades! Thanks for taking the time to do this website and more specifically this project. As a beginning woodworker, it’s the efforts of folks like yourself that don’t mind sharing the “secrets” that make the learning curve go that much faster. Thanks again.
I’m been going back and forth between buying a Jet DC-650 dust collector or a large shop vac. I have the Ridgid TS3650 contractor table saw which comes with a 4″ dust collection port, a small Ryobi router table and some basic small power tools (router, sander, etc…). I figured I would buy the dust collector thinking that it would work with all my tools and I would be ready for when I buy the other stationary tools. My question is: If I buy the dust collector, do I still need to buy the shop vac for the smaller tools? If I buy the shop vac alone will it be sufficient for my table saw?
I have to point out a possible design flaw in your top. The whole point was to make the top hard board replaceable right? The oak sides sit flush to the hard board and so since you glued those on and doweled over the screw holes, how do you get the hard board out to replace it? Also as you mention in a previous post that you don’t know whether or not the table top is 90 degree or not. Trying to fit a piece in later could cause some headaches. Is this correct or how did you plan on dealing with that?
I do like the hard board top though I work with that material all the time at work but never would have considered it for a work surface. After seeing that idea I think you could take it to the extreme and get yourself a 3/16 phenolic sheet (I don’t think you could 1/8 because it would be to brittle). It is much like hard board except like about 10 times more dense. The stuff I used to work with had a nice melamine finish on it as well. Would probably would never need to replace the top than.
As a note they do make bags for the shop vacs that filter pretty small particles. I think they usually call them Drywall filter bags. I’ve been using them for a while now and they work pretty well.
Hey Tim. The hardboard top will not be difficult to remove. Its just sitting on top of the table so the removal can be done by simply prying it up. Now when it comes time to drop the new top in, that shouldnt be too difficult. Although I didnt go through any great efforts to ensure that the table was perfectly square, it is definitely in the ballpark. So cutting a new piece shouldn’t be too challenging of a task. Aside from that, and I dont know why I didnt think of this in my other post, you have an exact-fitting sample already in your hands. The old top is a perfect template for the new one. So either figure out a way to flush trim it, or simply trace around the perimeter with a pencil and cut with a jig saw or circular saw. Piece of cake. :)
Your phenolic idea is a good one. Although there is no surface in my shop that lasts forever. After several years of glue, stain, and finish abuse, that top is gonna look like poo. So as far as Im concerned, the top is always sacrificial. And the cheapest material wins.
Our friends at the Taunton Press (Fine Homebuilding this time) have recently written an article/review on “Tool Triggered Shop Vacs”. It compared five machines with regard to power, filtration/dust collection, noise, mobility and ease of dumping/cleaning. The Bosch, Milwaukee, and PC scored well, but the Fein Turbo II got the “Author’s best value choice” and the Festool Cleantec 33 got the “Author’s best overall choice”. It also mentions an “Alto/Wap Attix” vacuum, (as did a FWW article did a few years back) but at $825, it’s a little too rich for most people’s taste.
Hi everyone,
In addition to hooking the tool up to a vacuum, I can recommend placing the end of a 4″ dust collector hose within 1-2′ of the sander (or whatever you are doing). A shop vac would not work this way: There is not enough air flow, but a dust collector works great. It even works with a miter saw if you place the hose right up behind the saw. I can usually “smell” the saw dust in the air due to allergies, and with this method there is none. And if you have sunlight, you get the pleasure of seeing the dust move into the hose like if it was magnetically charged.
I have found for my movable tools, the shop vac works great. But an addition to the vac (in between the vac and the tool) i use an Oneida Dust Deputy. This thing is so great, i wonder why i never bought one sooner. It uses nothing mechanical (no filters, motors, etc). To separate dusty air before entering the vacuum itself. They claim 99% efficient. I do NOT dispute that claim. I have used 3000 grit sandpaper (dry) for bar tops. And no a word of a lie it prevented every spec of this micro dust from hitting my shop vac filter. I use it for portable thickness planer, slider, and tablesaw with FANTASTIC RESULTS.
They can be found on Oneida-air.com (or just google it). There are gimmicks that claim to do the same thing, but i would be cautious towards those.
lates
P.S. I used have to spend like $20.00 every three months ($60 a year) for new filters for my vacuum, but now i spend only $20 a year. This device will easily pay for itself very quickly! And since there is nothing to EVER fail on the dust deputy (absolutely NO moving parts), it will outlive me guaranteed!!!…
Hey Jorge. To answer your questions, a shop vac would not be adequate for the tablesaw. And if you buy a dust collector, I would indeed advise getting a shop vac or some other dust extraction system for the smaller tools. Although technically, you could get away with using the dust collector for a while, especially at close range. But you might simply wind up air starving the dust collector. So really, this is one of those times I whole heartedly recommend both.
Now that dust deputy sounds kind of interesting. I haven’t really looked into it but I will check it out.
I recommend the Fein vacuum systems (spring for the one that you can plug your tool into and the vacuum comes on when you fire up the tool and runs a few seconds after you shut the tool off). I am building a kayak and use it on my orbital sander and it is great on the biscuit joiner when building shelves. Very quiet-lots of power-worth the cost-haven’t clogged it yet.
I may be in left field on this, but in reference to Ross’s question about fitting a new top..It seems the you could again cut the new top slightly oversized and flush trim to the old top for a perfect fit.
I just checked out Clear Vue Cyclones to get the model number for their smallest cyclone for use with a Shop-Vac. It’s the Mini CV06. An option for the Oneida if you want. Looks like they’ve got a June sale going on too!
The dust collection robert was asking about can be done with a dust deputy for 200 dollars from oneida. The deputy is a mini cyclone that hooks up to your shop vac and into a five gallon bucket. I don’t have one personaly, but I am thinking of buying one for my buddy who is a poor graduate student with a small shop. He complains of the same problems as robert and I mentioned this to him. THIS IS MADE BY ONEIDA
Hey… I listened to Woodtalk Episode 10 an doyu mentioned a grit compariosn… Here is a great article about grit comparison… I got it in my RSS feed from Popular Woodworking…
I happen to have both the Fein Turbo II and the Festool CT22. Both are great machines but there are a few differences:
The Fein has an advantage because you don’t have to use disposable bags like the Festool does which are rather costly. Both have great suction, but Festool has an antistatic hose. At first I thought it was no big deal but it really works. After some use the Feins hose collects all kinds of dust around the outside of the hose, while the Festool doesn’t. The Festool is also more stable and less likely to fall over. The Fein cost about 75 dollars less. The Festool has a more flexible nozzle and seems to adapt to more types of tools than the Fein does.
If I had to choose between the two of them, I would choose the Festool. Of course, it doesn’t hurt that it matches a vast majority of my power tools.
Wondering if it is possible to put the entire table on wheels to make it mobile, but keep the flatness. Thinking of future construction where having an area the size of the table dedicated only for assembly could lead to space issues. Probably wouldn’t have as much machinery, etc in it as yours, but would still like to have drawer and cabinet space in the carcass.
Having spent fourteen years rebuilding a 40’ cruiser that was completely made from mahogany with teak accents, I, and my bank account, can attest to the fact that teak especially is not an easy wood to finish. The mahogany requires a base coat made from 50% varnish and 50% thinner. Additional coats are laid on 90% varnish and 10% thinner. The teak, on the other hand, required a thorough wipe-down with acetone just before finishing with the first coat being the 50/50 formula, the second 60% varnish and 40% thinner, the third 70% varnish and 30% thinner, and so on until the final coats are at the 90/10. I learned not to sand between the first three coats but instead, just scuff them up with either steel wool (bronze wool if your refinishing something in a moist environment), or a green scuff pad. Filling the grain with a gel works great on the mahogany to cut down on the number of coats required, but is an absolute disaster on the teak, as it lifts within weeks.
I used #8 3/4″ brass wood screws to attach the hardboard to my 3/4″ MDF top.
I’ve now learned just how bad MDF holds screws! In some places, the screw went in loose on the first try (won’t tighten to a stop- just starts turning in place). Bummer!
Hey John. I probably should have mentioned that in the video. As soon as the screws are below the surface, you should stop turning.
The good thing is you really dont need much holding strength for the hardboard. Just something to hold it from flying away basically. :)
So honestly, my suggestion would be to leave the stripped ones alone and just add a few more. When you replace the top, just yank those puppies out of there, fill the hole, and you will be good to go. But technically you could just throw the hardboard on and not worry about screws at all. I just like to screw mine down for extra security.
It could help if you start at the extremes of the dovetail (right and left), then do a light scoring cut across the face, then plow out the rest of the middle. Check the bit for sharpness too.
Hey Lord. Thanks for bringing my attention to the fact that I completely forgot that the word dovetail was in his post. lol. oops.
You are exactly right. But it is hard to tell if he was talking about making the dovetails on a jig, or if he meant a sliding dovetail. Well just in case it was a jig, I would also recommend putting masking tape on the front and back of the piece where the cutting will take place, as this will reduce tearout significantly.
Dang, ask and you shall receive that was some great info on the veneers guys thanks!! In addition, I had a thought for the person with the cutlist issue. I was thinking they might be able to use sketch up to help them solve their sheet good cutting issues:)
It is always difficult to decide on something which we are not an expert on. There are many products offered in the market today and we cannot decide on which is the most appropriate for our own use.
Robert, I suggest you check us at our website. We offer a lot of information on dust collection systems. The people involve in our website are experts on this field. I hope we can help you out and shed some enlighten to your situation.
You mentioned in Episode 12 of WoodTalkOnline that you have a low-end Delta scrollsaw. (Sounds like the one I have.) I was a bit surprised, because for a long while now I have been coveting the definitely higher-end scroll saw in the banner image on TheWoodWhisperer home page. Is that red machine a Hegner? Was the picture taken in your old shop, or perhaps in David Marks’ studio?
In your podcast you mention sealing furniture against rot by epoxying the feet. From my wood boat experience, this is not a good idea. Unless the epoxy is sealed to the wood, i.e.: caulked around its edges, moisture is allowed under the epoxy and will lift it from the wood over time. Regular epoxy does not seep into the wood, but instead, it sits on the surface. It is rare that epoxy will fall off, but instead, will just lift enough to allow the moisture to gather then dry in a never-ending cycle. Wood can live forever if it is kept wet, but the cycle of wetting and drying is what causes the wood to rot. The best prevention is a complete coat of good spar varnish as it will expand and contract with the wood as it does not dry as hard as regular varnish. If you must epoxy, a product like S1 Epoxy Sealer by Industrial Formulators is the way to go. It is like water, seeps into the cells of the wood, and maintains a bond over its lifespan. It, like varnish, has to be renewed every so often, depending on the item’s use. If you really want to protect the wood, coat the entire piece with a couple of coats of S1 Sealer, give it a good sanding with 220 once its dried, then give it three coats of a good quality spar varnish. Renew the varnish every other year or so and the piece will last forever. If the piece needs to be stained, and your going to use epoxy, you have to stain it with an alcohol-based stain because the epoxy won’t stick to other types.
Extremely well put…..if you open a dozen wood mags. you’ll get a half dozen Top Buys. Most of these picks are based half and half on experienced statistics and collected opinions. But warning flags should be noted if more than a half dozen rate something as crap-in-a-box.
he absolutely correct! if need to spray, then spray, like me, im a sprayer beleiver, but you gotta know what ya doin. A tip , use min spirits mixed with naptha for your thinner blend, this is to thin and be a delivery solvent for coating. HVLP, Conventional, ok, no airless!!! !st two u can control air atomization, by feel. forget reccomendations by mfg!!! Im an old coatings guy from the industrial side, not local joe blo painters, which normally give u same info, cause they dont know!!! But thin n spray, have fun!!!
Hey Mark. I basically cut the step to approximate length and dropped it into the pre-assembly and pushed it upwards until it locked into place. Then I transferred the centerline of the step to the sides. That gives me the line for my mortises in the sides.
And Lord, you are discovering the disadvantage of my “new” podcasting method. For the time being, things are not going to be planned out as well as I would like. So although using a sharpie for the lines of the drawing would have made it much more visible for the viewer, it would have ruined the drawing for me. lol. I use a 5mm pencil on my drawings so that I can be as accurate as possible. With the luxury of time, there are many things I would have done differently with this particular episode.
I’ve been building up my shop for the last couple of months and I recently spent hours in Woodcraft, Rockler, and Sumner Woodworking store (in Washington state). I feel the same way, that no one “brand” is superior to the rest because all the major brands do exceptionally well with some of their products and so-so with their other products.
I’m quite impressed with Steel City though. I learned (unconfirmed) that the company was created by a bunch of woodworking old timers with the intent of creating machines specifically designed for fine woodworkers. I was shown some features in their machines that is evident that a whole lot of thought and experience went into their designs. They don’t compromise for cost buy using cheaper material either.
Festool also greatly impresses me.
For me cost is a major factor so my method is to think of what I’ll be using a machine for and finding the least expensive machine that will do what I need it to do. It’s like not buying a $1,000 color copier with all the pretty bells and whistles when I only need to make black and white copies. Instead I buy the $200 black and white copier.
As you’ve probably guessed, I don’t own any machines from Steel City or Festool, but one day when I win the lottery…..
Spagnuolos, great video! You shouldn’t sweat not being able to have things with the podcast as planned out as you would like to. The WhispererHeads (sort of like Deadheads,lol) are going to enjoy it even if its not refined to absolute podcast perfection.
Keep up the great work! The step stool turned out nicely.
A question for you… Did you leave the walnut nosing accents ‘as is’, or did you round over the edge? I ask because to me the nosing looked like it would hurt the bottom of your foot if you used the step stool barefoot.
Who needs planning – this was a great example of jumping in and building something. I liked the fast paced nature of the ‘cast, from start to finish. You didn’t bother with milling the lumber on screen, or all the details. It was great to see it from start to finish.
You are totally right about the steps Ryan. But I did give them a nice roundover. So now its just a nice bump that gives you a better grip on the step. But they were sand after the glueup. I’ll post a picture later since I now have a few coats of lacquer on it.
Hey Skee. I thought it felt fast paced too, until I looked at the total time. lol. Not sure how I ate up 30 minutes.
Great Video!! What other ideals do you have for the show? If your looking for more ideals have a look here. http://www.makezine.com/blog/a.....makes.html The first puzzle (with all the triangles) is held together with little festool like pins. What makes it a puzzle is that you have to push in all 3 pieces in the corners together at the same time. Here is the video. You have to watch or fastforward to the end to see the mercabut (name of puzzle). http://www.makezine.com/blog/a.....ast/2.html Again great video.
Hi, M & N You two did a great job on the podcast. It is a good piece for what you are doing with it. While it is simple it shows how that festool will make it quicker and easier. Nice job. Dean Knight
Mark
In your video you expressed slight concern about the strength of the domino tenon. I think the concern should be with the strength of the wood grain of the step that surrounds it. There is quite a bit of torque or leverage on the end grain of the step that could cause it to split.
Think of it this way. How would you build this using conventional methods? Probably insert the end of the step into a dado in the stringer which would support the step along its entire width. I know which I would rather trust my 220 lb. carcass on.
To maintain your design of the through tenon look you could add two additional non-through tenons to each side of the step. This would double the weight bearing surface plus just think of the “demo” factor, you get to show how easy it is to adjust the depth of cut with the flip of your finger.
Great fun guys..loved seeing the festool team of
products in action..German engineering rocks.
You two make a great comedy pair.
I’ll see you in Vegas!
To cap this mail: GOOD IDEA! Create an “exchange/listing board” on your web site. Allow readers and listeners to post their used/new equipment, finished crafts and furniture, and provide links to their eBay auctions. You could… no, no you should charge a small fee for each entry. This would allow you to generate more revenue from the web site. It could be a “Classifieds” section of your web site. Heck, you could also have your sponsors list stuff at “special prices” also.
My original mail:
Your show is great! I am a business analyst in my professional life so, during the work day I spend most of my time “changing the world from my corner office”. Your show has given me a great opportunity to listen/learn “shop” while I work. I am a loyal listener and have watched and listened to most episodes multiple times – of both Matt’s and Marc’s. I have also turned many of my co-workers to you show – they have become loyal listeners as well.
I just wanted to drop a line on a good idea. This idea comes from my situation and one of your [Marc’s] shows – My wife restricted how much I could spend on woodworking material and equipment. For several months it was a choice between, wood or equipment. If I get the wood I had limited equipment, if I get the equipment all I have is Pine to work with. Your show on “if I had $1000” really got me asking… how can I get a grand. I decided to go through my storage room and garage. After all was said and done with, I had about 80 items to list on eBay. I sold everything and raised almost $2,000!
Resulting from this good idea, I now have every imaginable piece of equipment, accessory, chemicals, and a very large collection of exotic hardwoods. (It does help that I have a Harbor Freight down the street!)
So, resulting from my experience I have two suggestions. Number one, for those of your listeners – a couple of listings on eBay and you can get the tools you need. Number two, Mark and Matt, you guys should create an exchange board on you web pages; allowing users to list their used/new equipment for a small fee. (This would be a good fund raiser to help support all of the wonderful resources you give us!)
Hey Marc, nice to see you in action again. FWIW I don’t think you need to make apologies to any of us for the work you do on the podcasts. I always pick up a pointer or two from the shows. (this time it was the tape trick).
BTW loved seeing the outtakes, have you considered a compilation pod cast of some of the others?
Yo,
Glad to see you are getting some well deserved perks for your hard work. I hope you don’t go the way of Norm, I love his shows but the guy has more tools that do everything taking away from some more traditional ways of doing things or the use of tools that the average guy can afford. I too love the Festool line but man are they spendy!!! hopefully one day I can afford them becuase they look like a treat to use!!!
Shawn, I can’t remember who gave this advise, but I think it wise. “Find the best machine that your money can buy, then save a little longer and get the one that’s just better”. Over my life I have, almost 95% of the time, regretted buying something I felt was just O.K., but affordable. It pays to save and buy what you really want first. That way you don’t by one machine for the price of two.
Mark and Nicole, not only do I think you should NOT have done anything different with this last episode, I think you should do more of these types of videos from time to time (including the outtakes). It was infomative and completely enjoyable. It also helps in keeping your content from growing stale. Great stuff.
Great episode. This is how it’s supposed to be, approachable and FUN. A small request, I know this was for the festool booth, but if you can help it, don’t leave us non-festool toting brethren behind in your ‘normal’ episodes to come.
I’ll add another vote for appending the outtakes to the end of subsequent episodes. If you make a compilation, please include the footage where you almost tripped on Nicole’s garage sale stuff — that was classic.
I have to agree with the others…the “natural” flow of Episode 20 was the most real, perhaps since Episode 2. Not that the other videos are substandard, far from it. You have a teaching gift and we all learn something with each podcast. But in this one, we got to see you, unedited and unscripted, as it were, working in your raw natural state. I probably learned more from this video than from the others because I felt like I was in the shop with you.
When talking about big lines on the plans vs. small lines. I was thinking this is why Norm always has a test build of a piece, before filming and showing the step by step?
I agree with Vic and Tim, after buying a couple of budget tools that never gave me what I wanted I discovered Festool (just plane Festo back then). I decided to bite the bullet and bought a sander. I have never looked back, I now have 3 sanders, 2 routers, a jigsaw and a shop vac ( I put the vac off for some time as they are pricey but I got one this April and I should have got one ages ago). They are pricy but that just means more haggle room to get a better price.
Here is my 2 cents Shawn,While I don’t disagree with the notion that you will never be dissappointed buying the best that you can afford, It’s not necessary to get the most expensive, I have Grizzly tablesaw and horizonal boreing machine, Jet bandsaw, General 15″ planner.(so much for matching colors) Mark’s advice is good read the reviews. There are alot of good machines out there by different manufactures.
My advice is to learn the most you can, I have seen some very fine pieces of furniture come out of some very basic shops.
Hey Marc, Pretty slick stepstool. Nothing like giving yourself a bit of a challenge! All those angles, ouch.
I would have liked to have seen the glue up. I think that was probably a bit of a hair-raising time with all those odd angles to go together, and yet still not wanting squeeze out if at all possible. In your dry fit you tapped the dominos into the sides first. How did you do it for real? I would have put the glue in the steps first and tapped the dominos home, then wiped glue into the holes int he sides and popped them into place, and probably had some squeeze out on the outside.
Oh, and as for festool making tenons in other woods… good idea, but I still bet that on the finished stool they stand out. Aren’t the cut ends of the tenons mostly end grain, which will show darker than the side grain that they penetrate.
Kudos to Nicole as well, for patiently putting up with you dragging her in front of the camera for no good reason… ;-)
Hey Art. The reason I never showed the glue-up is because I haven’t done it yet. This is a sample for the show and I want to be able to to take it apart. But my approach would have been very similar to yours. I might even go as far as milling up some special cauls that would help apply pressure on the angles.
These exposed tenons do stand out. But it would be nice to have the color options.
I will make sure Nicole receives your kudos. :) Thanks art.
Well I was wondering about that (whether you were taking it to the show as a sample)… but up above you mentioned that you’ve already put some lacquer on it, so it seemed safe to assume it was finished.
All the above are excellent thoughts — no argument. Whatever the case, if it comes down to waiting a while longer to save up versus buying cheap now — WAIT.
In terms of specifics, I too love my Festools. I’ll never own a BMW car but I sort of think of these as my BMW tools. Not perfect (I don’t much care for their jigsaw and tend to use my Bosch more) but overall they are batting about a 975. My DeWalt impact drivers remain the most used tools in the shop and they apparently don’t ever wear out. I, too, love Powermatic stationary tools but like my Delta drill press better than the Yellow one.
So as you can see from all these replies, there is no one answer to your question; but, you are on the right track – asking questions and looking around. Good luck.
Nicely done, and I love who you “borrowed” his signature as well! Excellent!
Maybe if you flip the order left to right, this could be a before and after kind of thing – “What happens after a lifetime of woodworking.” You’re just seeing your future!!
IT would be very helpful if some of the wood webs had some info on refinishing guitars. I don’t mean the coating of paint and lacqer, but having to sand down a spruce or mahogony finish due to 60 years of pick abuse and heavy lacquer cracking. I just finished sanding down a Kay Kraft from the 1930’s, but the trick is to try to match up the subtle deep flaming from the original..having the center area lighter and the edges going pretty dark. Usually a dark mahogony. Uneven staining is alive and well in this situation, but deep dark staining is also needed, which may not work if the wood is pretreated for uneven staining. Right now I’m looking at some raised grain after staining, and some uneveness..wondering if I can combine some steel wool work to remove just some uneveness and more stain around the edge…also, that deep glow from lacquer coating….most guys aren’t set up at home for spraying, but tung oil layers aftere a single linseed coating have a great look, but don’t expect the magic till after the 6th or 7th coating….
Oh, and it was great fun spilling a whole can of deep mahogony onto the kitchen floor right at the end…totally exhausted, then two more hours of cleaning, ruining mops, then half naked scrubbing and sanding walls and floor before the girls got home. No skin left to play the damn thing with.
That was great!
This is probably the bset video you have done! Like Eric says, it was like we were there with you.
Here is the question: Did you step on it yet? It is a beautiful piece, but it is one of those like a lidded box that wants to be touched – this wants to be stepped on!
Thanks for all you and Nicole have done -I think it is simply awesome that she supports you in the shop and “Living your dream!”
the most disturbing thing I’m probably going to view all day……not that I ever wondered what a clone of Norm would be like, but if I did, now I’d know!!!
Nicole good job with the photoshop but ” Be sure to read, understand, and follow all the safety rules that come with your photo tools nad you forgot these safety glasses on Marcs photo”
hey marc and nicole great podcast great project and in great time would like to build one myself keep them coming and I will keep watching, also the podcast made me want to go out to my shop and build something right away thanks for the inspiration. brad
The videos are very helpful. Really enjoy the time you take to illustrate all the details. I’m enjoying this on my iphone while away from home.
aint technology great!
Hand tools??!?!?? You’re using hand tools?!?!!!?!?!
Just kidding. My real questions:
1. Other than just wanting to cover chisel techniques for the podcast, why not use a low angle block plane for cleaning up the edge of your step-stool step?
2. You mention using Norton 3x, which I love using, but then you mention 600 grit sandpaper for the last sanding before the final finish. Would this be wet/dry sandpaper, or some other brand? Norton doesn’t make a 600 grit sandpaper, to my knowledge — I think that Norton 3x goes up to 400.
Hey Wilbur. I know can you believe it?? Hand tools! lol
I definately could have use a block plane. But I really wanted to show everyone the chisel technique. Not to mention, there are times that I feel like I have more control when I use a chisel, as opposed to a block plane. Especially when it comes to end grain and tearout and just a little piece of trim. But in most cases, I imagine most people would have just used the plane.
The sandpaper I uses was just an automotive (gray or black) paper. Anything above 320 i usually go for the automotive stuff. Honestly I cant even remember the brand off hand. But I pick it up at the big box store.
I am always amazed what can be brought into the wood shop when the wife is out of town. Lets hope Nicole wont notice her stainless steel mixing bowls are missing :) Lets hope she doesn’t read these posts as well !
Thanks Marc for the awsome podcast, I am inspired to try the oil varnish finish on my next project (Plasma TV stand) to get a feel for the process and finish.
Thanks, Marc, for the demonstration on paring. You’ve obviously got a very sharp chisel (”sharp enough to cut wood and draw blood”) . . . Do you have a honing guide that you’d recommend? I’ve been pondering the Veritas MK2. Thanks.
Great show as usual. We especially appreciate your covering the finishing techniques. They are often over looked by other woodworkers. Have a great trip and we hope to see you there.
Like your show, but you need to quit using Nicole’s t-shirts for finishing phase.
Keep up the good pods, ribbit ! I guess even frogs want to do woodworking.
I just got my Veritas Mk II and used it last weekend. It’s awesome! I already had their first gen(?) honing jig, and I’ll keep that for honing skews. The Mk II is virtually foolproof and it allows you to set the bevel angle precisely square and at the same angle every time you remove and replace a plane iron (should you need to do so). I haven’t tried it out on my chisels yet, but I expect a similar impression.
Question(s): Correct me if I am wrong, but you used Seal-a-Cell for the entire finish. Do you ever use Arm-R-Seal; Use Seal-a-Cell and then Arm-R-Seal for the top coats? If you are just using Seal-a-Cell, what are its properties compared to using Arm-R-Seal?
Have a great time in Vegas, to paraphrase Floyd. “Wish I was There”…
Hey Kyle. The Arm-R-Seal is basically pure varnish with no oil added. This means you will build up a protective film finish faster. Using several coats of Seal-A-Cell alone gives me a light film for protection, without losing the natural close to the wood look.
Great podcast Marc! Did I hear someone say “ravioli”??? That was hysterical, I literally laughed out loud when I heard that :) Keep up the great work and fantastic sense of humor!
I just built the box. As an alternate method to a block plane to remove high spots, I used a T-bar sander. This is a trick model aircraft builders use to even out all of the ribs on a wing before covering to get a uniform surface. I made a 24″ T-bar by butt-joining two pieces of MDF with glue. Then used spray contact cement to affix some 100 grit sandpaper to the flat surface. Sand the surface with this bar diagonally to the grid. The T bar spans 3 grid boxes or more taking out the high spots first and further flattening the surface.
i suggest buying it…if you’re into really sharp, consistant tools….
couple hints from my experience
- keep stones dead flat when using it….since you cant really “use the whole stone” with the knife locked in the roller system, it can lead to subtle concave areas in stones. This can be frustrating when trying to sharpen a plane blade.
- if you keep a chart of all the angles and microbevels on your tools, its very easy to go back and rehone a micro bevel the next time, to the perfect angle.
anyone can sharpen by hand…but this jig gives you peace of mind and reliability, and your tools will have that textbook sharpness to them.
great episode marc…keep it up.
Shouldn’t you put your nosing ( now called edging) on first then make your angled cuts?
Admittedly it does show good use of chisels on end grain but may leave the newbie with the impression that the “sequence” is correct.
Well Mr. Bob. When you glue that trim piece at a 65 degree angle, it causes the front of the step to have a ridge. This ridge prevents the piece from sitting nice and flat since it props the front up when its upside down. And when you flip it over, the ridge would cause a problem for the Festool MFT guide. The guide needs to sit on a flat workpiece in order to work properly and safely. Now of course that bevel cut could be made on either the tablesaw, or the miter saw, but my mission was to make this project completely with Festool tools. And if I couldn’t do it with Festool stuff, then I needed to find another option. So thats what you saw in the video. I am sure if I had the luxury of time to ponder the situation, I could have come up with a “Festool” solution, but I had to get er done. So with the oversized trim glued on, I figured I would take a few minutes to pare it down. And in addition, I saw it as a great opportunity to display a hand tool technique (something I rarely have the opportunity to do).
I love using scrapers when theyre new and have that ‘factory hook’. But I could never get down the sharpening technique until I viewed this video. It’s like a light went off inside my head. So I sharpened every scraper I could find and now I’m in Scraper Paradise.
TYVM
That’s awesome for you guys! I can’t imagine meeting Norm and having him say, “I know who you are.” I would have said, “Can you shoot a brad in my arm so I know I’m not dreaming?!?” :-)
I’m stoked to hear your interview with David Marks. I just found out that he is coming to Minnesota this fall sponsered by our woodworking guild. YES!!!
And by the way, Marc, it’s cool that you feel that way about people like Norm, DM, and Scott Phillips. I hope you know that some of us feel the same way about you. Someday I can’t wait to say, “Honey… there he is! It’s Marc! And there’s Nicole! Oh, crap… look how long the autograph line is…” (And yes, I’m serious.)
Marc, You have just brilliantly summarized what I love about woodworking…there is no competition, there are no egos, everyone is truly interested in helping others learn and appreciate our craft. I hope that never changes.
I can say 100% this is the reason I love the wood whisperer, or more importantly Marc and Nicole (because they both make the wood whisperer what it is). I haven’t been lucky enough to meet them in person at the show. But every time I visit the chat room they are inviting and approachable (in a cyber kind of way). They don’t make us less experienced wood workers feel less experienced. Even though I grew up idolizing Norm too I could never imagine talking to him in a chat room about mortise and tenon joints and then asking what he’s having for dinner. Thanks Marc and Nicole for embracing the awesomeness of the internet!! And for being The Wood Whisperer…
Marc, that’s neat that you not only met but got to speak with them 1:1, I can’t fathom any comparison you’re making to Paris Hilton though. Every person you mentioned has made a CONTRIBUTION and have enriched the lives of thousands of us in ways that go beyond just fashioning things out of wood. Fathers like me after seeing a few episodes of David Marks or Norm end up getting off the couch, setting up a home shop, and spending more time with their kids in the enthusiasm that has been rediscovered in doing woodworking. Guys like me are rediscovering the joy that can be had working with one’s hands; although come to think of it I hear Paris is also quite skilled at “working wood” so maybe you do have a valid comparison there…
I can remember being about 13 years old and going to the Garden state plaza mall in NJ with my Mom and sister and running into George McPhee. He was the enforcer for the NY Rangers in the early 80’s and my favorite player. I was so excited that the first thing out of my mouth was “HOLY S#!T”. My mom was not happy since cursing was a big NO NO, but I got to talk to him as well as getting an autograph. It was great (my mom excused me from a mouth full of soap).
The cool thing for you is that you are now on the other side of the fence. It is one thing to take pride in your work but it is another to go the extra mile by sharing your skills and inspiring up and coming woodworkers. I truly appreciate the hard work you and Nicole put into your work and would gladly stand in line to get an autograph and a picture. Keep up the good work…. And by the way, awhile back you left a comment on my Blog about a project I did (your cutting board) that truly made my day. Nicole has also left some great comments as well. It is great that we are in a community that allows us access to the people who we consider to be our superstars.
Great episode, Marc… You are definitely a pro’s pro, but it is still nice for us novices to hear you say “so you don’t screw it up, like I just did…” I laughed out loud at that!
And thanks for showing us some cool hand tool techniques. Nice to see that mixed it with the power stuff from time to time.
you guys deserve all the good stuff you experienced last week! Like others above, I can see myself nudging my wife to say “hey, that’s Marc & Nicole from The WoodWhisperer!”. As I mentioned in one of your chatrooms, I saw David Marks at the AAW in Portland and said “hello” and mentioned your podcasts, He returned that he thought you were a “kick”. You’re a name too, and thanks for doing what you do, and letting us chat with you like regular people.
Ok now that I have awoking from the Vegas dream… Not only did I too get to hobnob with Norm but he actually signed my Wood Whisperer t-shirt now how much better does that get, well except if maybe David Marks and a few others signed it but hey I don’t want to push my luck!! Looks like one of the next projects is a case to frame it:) I guess I better get Marc to sign before he’s booked for guest appeareances:) Don’t look in the mirror man cause you are quickly becoming one of those guys!
Marc, thanks for sharing your perspective and experiences. Just to echo what has already been said, you are certainly one of these guys who is someone we all can look up to. I have already been telling my students to reference your site and study your Podcasts. You truly are a pioneer in this area and I very much appreciate that. Thank you for all that you have done thus far and I look forward to your mentorship and our collegial relationship!
If you drive a few roofing nails through your little wood strips (pointy side up) you would minimize damage to the finish on the underside of the peice you are finishing..just something I do when Im in a hurry wich I always am afterall time is money….
Boy do I wish I had a finishing room. At this point, my finishing room is the back of my shop. One day though, we plan on converting part of our back patio to a finishing room. And of course I will document the whole process.
I have to echo the sentiments of those above. I too got to meet the man that got me started into woodworking(Norm) and the dynamic duo team of Marc and Nicole that have actually renewed my spirit and have forced me to give up the excuses of too tired, not enough time in the day to do atleast something in my shop on a daily basis to relieve the stresses of day to day life.
My wife asked me after returning from the show on Day 1 whom I was more thrilled to meet, Norm or Marc. Without hesitation I answered her(honestly) Marc and Nicole. I told her the reason was that Norm is something safe/comforatable like an old sweater, where TWW is like a new video game where you never know what the next level is going to bring but you cant wait to get there. I know that I’ll never get an invite to the Batcave known as the The New Yankee Workshop, but I feel that somehow I get an invitation to marcs shop on a daily basis for a cup of coffee and chat about bits/blades, finishises and techniques…(even though I know I’ll never get a direct invite to Marc’s shop as the only other human’s I’ve seen there are his stepdad, nicole and the UPS guy), that’s ok, I know I’ll always be welcome through the online feed….
This was a cool way to get the ustream people over to the site. And if you could push up the patio to finishing room project, that’d be great…save me from my own mistakes. Just kidding, I know how busy you two are already…but..:)
great stuff Marc. i found the website this past weekend so i sat with a couple of six-packs and watched all of the videos. one area of woodworking in which i am weak is finishing so this latest video helped a lot. is there any possibility that you might do a video on air compressors and spraying finishes in depth? perhaps with topics such as choosing good and compatible equipment to proper mixing of the finish and what to look for when the finish leaves the gun, i.e. too thin/too thick.
Marc – Just to make sure I’m getting this correctly… If one of the legs is uneven and you put the stand on the TS and held it down, won’t it make the top unlevel after the cut? I get the idea but if one leg is longer than the rest (or one shorter) and you put it on a flat surface, your marks won’t make the table flat and level, will it? HELP! :-)
Hey Mike. From what I gathered, the discrepancy is not too great. So it shouldnt cause the table to go too far out of level. Certainly no more “un-level” than the floor its sitting on. :) If it were a major discrepancy between the legs, I would use weights and shims to get the table in a stable level position, then apply this technique.
How many legs does this stand have? If it only has four, you only need to determine which of the four is long and slowly/carefully work that leg gradually down to get rid of the rocking motion overall.
I have found that if you are putting anything on a floor, especially hard wood floors, that it is going to wobble initially wherever you put it. No floor is dead flat so using a tension box or table saw top is only step one. After that is done and the table saw/tension box gods are pleased and shone on the project with delight, you are still going to have to shim it once it gets to its final resting place. I have found that the least obtrusive way of shimming is to get some clear plastic circle pads and place them under the project with the paper still covering the sticky back. Place them in a spot that deletes the wobble, sand if needed, and then peel off the sticky back and place permanently. The other thing that I have found that works for “slight” wobbles is using felt pads. The weight of the project, over a little, time crushes the felt pad on the foot that is carrying the most weight. Now if the piece is moved “reshimmying” needs to be done, but who doesn’t like a little shimmy?
Thanks for another awesome video. Looking forward to trying this finishing technique on my next project.
Do you wash and reuse the t-shirt after a project, or is this a “use one and dispose properly” kinda thing? If you wash, how do you do it? And if you dispose, is there anything special or does it just go in the trash?
TRY THE DUST DEPUTY FROM ONEIDA…YOU ABSOLUTELY WON’T BE DISAPPOINTED….ALSO FOR SMALL SHOPS LIKE MINE, THEIR 3HP GORILLA DUST COLLECTION SYSTEM IS TREMENDOUS! I HAVE BOTH AND LOVE THEM. THEY BUILT LIKE TANKS…A VERY GOOD COMPANY TO DO BUSINAESS WITH TOO!
I appreciate the comments regarding my original question.
This is seemingly such a simple problem however nothing undermines the quality of a piece than a wobble.
Splayed legs are particularly prone to this problem, to the degree that one should assume a final trim as normative and/ or resort to LordLQQK’s suggestion to use a levelling shim.
I did some follow-up research before executing the procedure recommended by Marc :
I concurrently found an illustrated solution to this problem in the most recent “Tips, Jigs and Organizers”, from the editors of Wood magazine (on local news stands).
Check out page 124 at the back…how to…” make legs four-of-a-kind and flush to the floor”. Essentially similar to Marc’s solution placing the piece on the table saw as a level surface…
“In a piece of 1/4″ plywood, cut a hole larger than the diameter of the leg. From the same stock, cut three more small shims. Place one leg in the hole and trim the leg using a flexible flush-cut saw. Move the hole jig to the next leg, shim the just-cut leg and repeat the cutting and shimming process for the remaining three legs.”
If the language is not clear see the illustration.
I successfully used the shim-jig as described in the article as a marking guide and then took the piece to the table saw for trimming.
Lee Valley has self-levelling glides… ” the glides are self-levelling to prevent furnture wobble…”. . See their hardware catalogue, pp 179.
I really enjoy your show. I am just beginning, and you are a God send. I thought that I would return the favor.
Way back when, I think it was episode 11, you gave us a brief tutorial of how to use Google Sketchup. What a great tool and free to boot. I just found out that Wiley publishers and printing a book on Google Sketchup. It is written by a member of the Sketchup team. I posted the link in the “Website” box above, but I will include it in the body of comments as well. http://he-cda.wiley.com/WileyC.....75656.html
Just thought you might like to know…if you didn’t already. There may be some others woodworkers out there starving for knowledge that may want to take advantage.
Thanks for all that you do! The ASWF footage was great you big tease!
Wow, check you out…a year ago you were just a regular guy (except for spending some time in the shop with David Marks that is) and now you’re rubbing elbows with Norm Abrams AND he has heard of you! You should be commended for not only having the gutts to follow your heart, but for having the initiative to take a risk and throw your podcast out there. When you consider how quickly you’ve gone from podcast to where you’re at, that’s a fast payoff. Gotta love the technology that makes this all possible. Good for you
God, wish I could’ve stayed another day and met Norm, too….but Hey! I suck!
Didn’t get to meet “The Host with the Most–Marc Spagnuolo” and I didn’t even show up when the cam was on to make my internet debut…DANG! Yet another missed opportunity!
Matt is telling the truth :-) Just read the Google Sketchup for Dummies book over the weekend and its got very practical information that makes understanding how to approach and use the software much less frustrating. I recommend it to not just to beginners.
I have always enjoyed the David Marks series on DIY. Very nice smile from David. That must have felt good to see. Did you replay it a couple of times? Best regards, Joe
I said it would be the the last time the file will be put in The Wood Whisperer feed. The link posted here is not a direct link to the file, but a link to the post on WoodTalkOnline.com. So its more of a notice of sorts. In the future, I may stop doing that as well. But for now its beneficial.
Marc – Having seen all of your podcasts and listening to WoodTalkOnline, I can honestly say your commitment to safety is great, and well ahead of most woodworkers on TV or in the media. You can be seen wearing the respirator in many of your podcasts, in addition to other safety steps. (Can’t say as I’ve ever see you “remove guard for clarity” like many other media types.) I also admire that the times you explain why you are or aren’t doing a certain thing with regards to safety (like why wearing a respirator may be overkill but is good, or why your wore gloves the one time to use the jointer).
Thanks for your commitment to your own safety, as well as ours! You definitely practice what you preach. :-)
And remember, Marc, there is no more important safety rule than to wear these, safety glasses! :-D
Mad props on the latest Wood Talk Online episode. The new outline and forum of the show is really exciting. There was something that wasn’t made clear though… The new authors on the site, will they be pulling from there own knowledge and experience to write these articles, or will they be pinch hitting for you and “side show Matt” by answering questions.
Thanks Kendall for the super sweet mad props. Word.
The new authors are simply contributors to the site. They will write articles and can be contacted individually for questions. Matt and I will still take emails and voicemails for the podcast.
That clear things up?
Man, you are a worker bee! The site looks beyond great and the idea of pulling in other woodworkers is just another example of the true genius that is The Wood Whisperer! As my homeboy, Kendall, put it; Mad Props!
Hey John. To tell you the truth, Im not a big fan of wax. It doesn’t offer much in the way of protection and it signs you up for a lifetime of maintenance and wax buildup. In my opinion, the varnish is durable and beautiful enough on its own. I just cant find any good reason to use wax. Again, this is just my opinion and I know many folks who love using wax. To each his own I suppose. :)
Marc, I can only hope that The Woodwhisperer website continues…I have learned much from it, believe it or not I now consider The Woodwhisperer, Woodworks,The New Yankee Workshop,and Fine Woodworking my main sources of info and inspiration.You seem to know your audience and know what to insert or leave out in your explanations of woodworking tasks.An example of what I mean was your info given on installing cup hinges on the shop cabinet you made a while back…This was the type of stuff often left out by others.I loved the interviews with Norm,Scott, and David. Do you think David will do any more Woodworks? How has Norm kept up with his workload for so many seasons? Thanks again,Jeff
Hey Jeff. I am honored to be held in such high regard. :)
No I do not think David will ever do more Woodworks, unfortunately. And not sure what the secret to Norm’s success. Determination and hard work I suppose.
Marc (and Nicole), inspirational interview. Many great insights from a master. I’m particularly drawn to Marks style, as opposed to other woodworkers on TV. I’m glad the series helped his career and didn’t sour him on the whole woodworking process. Maybe in a few lifetimes I might achieve the expertise he displays. In the meantime, I’ll keep watching The Wood Whisperer and making sawdust!
I use a loose interpretation of the word “apprentice”. It was quite short term really. But I learned a good portion of what I know from the man, be it in person or from Woodworks.
thanks Marc – I’d been chomping at the bit for this one :^)
Back when I started getting interested in making real furniture (not just 2×4 utility stuff) I had felt Norm’s projects were a bit out of reach for me. His shop and immense amount of tools seemed way out of my league, so I never really persued fine woodworking as I saw it through The NYW. Still, the woodworking bug was instilled in me from pre-teen years spending summer days in my grandfather’s small garage shop and it was hard to ignore. So, when my wife and I bought a house a couple of years ago, I started setting up a shop to satify the genetic need to make sawdust. It was then when I discovered Woodworks, apparently a year after David completed his last season. It was that show that drew me in, and made me think that I might be able to make something I’d be proud of someday. Although David’s shop rivals Norm’s, David gave the projects a very personal touch and made everything seem do-able, despite his obvious talent and extraordinary creativity and vision. Still, there’s only so much you can pack into 20 minutes, and there were a number of questions as to the processes and how to’s that weren’t answered. Then, you started up your podcasts last winter and many of those pieces of the puzzle are now being filled in.
So here I am, 39 years old and awe-struck by an average guy with incredible talent who happened to get a TV show because he still had all 10 fingers. And, thankful to another average guy with a great collection of T-shirts, an aptitude to teach, and the kind of experential knowlege that I need to learn to lessen the years of mistakes I was sure to make in my quest to create something with wood.
I guess I’m just trying to say thanks, great job on this one!
Marc,
Great interview thanks, So far I have been on my own during the learning process and I gather all of my information from various sources. Originally books and tv shows like Davids were my main source but with the internet being the way it is It ha become an invaualble tool for learning and you are definatley at the forefront in the world of cyberwoodworking…. Keep it up :)
John
PS. I have a Bandsaw, I’m from NJ and I have a pretty blonde wife. Obviously a recepie for success…..
WOW!
What a GREAT interview! It did not seem improptu – it seemed well planned! I know you two are friends, and some of the interview was that way (two friends talking), but the insight – incredable!
I believe one thing form that interview – two guys with two GREAT wives! You both have wives that always back you up. and Victoria (no disrespect to Nicole) but how well spoken and obviously Mark’s devout partner.
Marc – keep up the GREAT work! Nicole – continue with your “out of this world” support of this fantastic teacher and artist.
I was fortunate enough to take a class from David at the LA Woodworking Show a couple of years ago. He really is very pasionate about his work and his enthusiasm is contagious. I’m honored to have met the man.
Thanks Marc & Nicole – and keep up the good work! You are giving us average saw-dust manufacturers some great advice while keeping the instructions informative and entertaining.
Fantastic interview.
I love the comments about “discovering” the mortise and tenon joint and not knowing about wood movement.
Reminds me of the time I discovered linseed oil rags will spontaneously combust if you bunch them up and throw them away wet. Nothing burned down ;^{D
Awesome interview! I love the relaxed style. It’s nice to be able to see him relax and here what he says in that setting and not the loud WHURR of the show! :-)
It was nice hearing from his wife, too. Seems like a lot of you fine craftsman are humble folks, so I like hearing the wife talk about the great stuff her husband does.
Nice work! Thanks for sharing that with us.
Mike
P.S. Did any part of you want to look at David and say in a Darth Vader voice, “Your powers are weak, old man. When last we met I was but the learner, now I am the master!”? :-P
Great interview. The whole woodworking communtity owes you deeply. My BIL and I salivate at every Wood Works show we see. David is an incredible professional. Being able to meet the real David Marks and his charming wife through your interview is as good as it gets. Thanks Mark, keep up the good work! =)
Excellent! Very refreshing to hear a master reminisce about early learning experiences and profess a lifetime of learning still in progress. Also refreshing to hear from the supportive spouse, both yours and Davids.
The best podcast Marc made showed a delightful method of cleaning his shop….with a leaf blower! I managed to borrow one for fun and now my shop is much cleaner and like Marc, my dust seemed to just disappear into the wide blue yonder!
I’m the same way. I’ll (usually) do a quick clean up at the end of the day that involves putting all of my tools away and sweeping up the floor. Before the finishing stage of a project, but after the sanding, I’ll do a good shop clean-up that involves picking up everything off the floor and moving what I can to get all of the dust I can get. Once a project is done and I’ve resharpened all of my tools, I’ll even mop the place before I get started on the next one. How’s THAT for anal?
I am so not letting my wife read your response! Our relationship is the reverse of yours and Nicoles. I’m very OCD in many ways, but was not raised to notice clutter. I am trying for all the reasons you mentioned. Frankly, I’m just plain happier and way more productive when everything is in its place. I’m gonna try the 10 things, maybe that’ll work for me! God, please let it work for me!!!
now that i am divorced i feel i can let it go when i want and clean it when i want. before the divorce i felt like there were two of us and since we were a pair we needed to keep ip as clean as possible. we both cleaned on everything in and out of the house. she pitched in and helped with the shop while i pitched in and helped with the living room and bath room and so on. we just tried to make it fair for both of us. Dean
A clean shop is the sign of a craftsman. The owner of a dirty shop, where tools, junk and sawdust abound, can often be heard to say, “Good enough”, when fitting a joint.
I’m also a clean freak, but it can be very difficult to keep things organized if you don’t have enough room or storage space. I’m shy on both. Her car takes up half of the garage and my motorcycle takes up a fair amount of space as well. Fortunately, when it is time to make some sawdust, I pull the vehicles out and the tablesaw, bandsaw, jointer, planer, and Shopsmith are all on mobile bases. It isn’t convenient, but it works.
When it cools down, I’m planning to take a week off from work and build shop cabinets. The lower ones will be mobile as well and the wall mounted ones will be on a rail system. This way, when it is time to move, everything comes with me, quickly and easily.
The never ending story…… cleaning the shop……I always feel like I clean the shop just so I can tear it up again….. I have my garage set up as a perminent shop but it is not big enough. The part that drives me crazy is moving tools in and out when you use them. I am getting ready to move from Colorado to NC and the first thing coming out of the Earth is my shop (the one I want).
The things I look forward to most are: storage for my hand tools and small power tools, right now I keep them all in their cases and that takes up alot of room. A nice workbench and assembly table, right now I use my saw way too often for stuff I shouldn’t (cringe). And simply being able to walk from tool to tool without rolling things and moving D.C. hose’s………
I agree with picking up stuff, but how much residual dust escapes your dust collector? I don’t have a cyclone, I rely on my shop vac and even though I religiously hook it up to whatever tool I’m using, I still have dust that escapes and I end up sweeping at the end of a session. Any suggestions?
Some of the most beautiful crafted furniture does not always come from a spotless neat shop. I have seen some pics of Mr. Maloofs shop and it’s not perfect but shows there is work being done and some very nice pieces at that. I wood love to do work like him and have my shop so messy.
I LOVE your post about heros. I was once at the Long Beach Grand Prix many years ago, when Mario Andretti was still racing, and I saw Paul Newman in the pit area, I walked up to him and asked if I could meet Mario Andretti (Paul co-owned Mario’s team). He looked at me with those blue eyes and said, you want to meet Mario Andretti? I said, oh yes, I adore him! Paul Newman went into a large RV, came back and said, wait here … he’s not in a good mood (Al Unser had just put him into the fence), but he’ll be out in a sec … out came Mario Andretti, and I was not able to speak for the awe I was feeling. It was one of those highlights that I won’t ever forget. My friends think I’m nuts – choosing to chat with Mario over Mr. Newman (:
Better late than never!
Well done! Unfortunately, it is hard to justify the expense of the Domino for a hobbyist (1000 bucks if you include tenon kit!)! If I could I would get one, but I think there are more important tools for me at this time! Unfortunately, Festool Powertools are not geared for the hobbyist! Does anyone other (translated – Less expensive! lol) manufacturer have a comparable tool that uses tenons (not biscuits!)?
NO BLOOPERS?!? Again, great job Marc and Nicole. I assume the answer to the mitersaw question to Festool was edited in the vein of “if I told ya, I’d have to kill ya”. lol Thanks again for all the hard work you two put into this cutting edge venture we like to call The Woodwhisperer.
Hey Pat. Thats why this tool has made such a splash. The other “comparable” tools are not truly comparable. The closest analog would be the biscuit joiner. But I would never assemble this project with a biscuit joiner. Another much cheaper option would be dowels. But I have never had much luck with dowels in terms of accuracy. Now there are other tools that make tenons, but the process take alot longer. So its all a give and take. Bottom line is the Domino is a one of a kind tool. But it by no means a necessity. If you have a chisel, you can make mortises. If you have a router, you can do it even faster. Everything else just makes life easier and increases your accuracy, but unfortunately does nothing to increase your skill. :)
Thanks, next best thing to being there. I really like the powermatic idea of incorporating a workbench into the extension on the tablesaw. I know it is bad bad JUJU to use your saw as a workbench and I cringe everytime I do it but unfourtainatly I do not have the room for a dedicated bench….. I think I will add one to my saw. I also look forward to your review of the Tenryu blade. i have a friend who is a cabinet maker and that is all he uses, he talks price point alot….
Thanks again to you and Nicole…
Hi Marc, Nicole!
Love the new intro and music! Thanks for the great interviews from the show. Those were some exciting new products and I can’t wait to see them first hand. Keep up the great work!
For some strange reason I cannot open the flv flash file. I thought it was my vista machine, (which is know to have flash problems, but my windows xp machine is doing the same thing. Have you had others report a problem??
Haven’t had any reports of that Frank. Video starts right up for me. Make sure you have the latest version of flash installed on both machines and that might take care of it. Email me if you continue to have trouble.
Marc – I am confused by your answer. Why would the joint be weaker in some cases? I would think that (and the article states this) the increased surface area would increase the strength of the bond.
Mind you this is all theoretical knowledge. But I have read on several occasions where things like splines and glue-line bits weaken the joint (although more so with splines than with the glue line bit). The idea usually stems from the fact that the joints have the potential for little breaks in the glue line. If the glue line bit joint doesn’t bottom out, there will be a slightly larger gap where the glue will pool. This will then be a weak point. Same thing with a splines. When most people makes splines, very rarely do they fit perfectly. So whereever the inconsistent and more “open” glue line exists, you will have a weak point.
But even in the worst case scenario, the joint will be solid for all practical purposes. But the real take home message is that you dont really need more strength than a long-grain glue bond provides.
Now since this is not from personal experience, I should change the text to read, “some people believe…..” In fact I will change that right now to avoid people thinking I am making a claim from my own experience.
A quick cure for long grain glue up joint alignment is a 30″ wide belt sander! We would always mill 1/16″ over, and get the edges as close as you can..then sand up from 60 grit through 120 into a perfect surface.
My guess is that the glue joint bit might create voids where the wood surfaces might not get good contact with the glue/other surface, and therefore have poor adheasion. Two boards, jointed and ripped properly with good even squeeze out along the joint will work perferct every time!
Wow… Learn something new everyday. I had never heard of such an animal before, so what an educational question.
Thanks for posting the link, Marc. I read the question three times and still didn’t have a clue. I followed the link and now I’m smarter! :-)
I would just be concerned that if you didn’t get that thing aligned exactly, you could force ridges on your glue up. Seems like more of a hassle to me. Easier to use nothing or biscuits.
An excellent question Alexander and a fabulous answer Marc. I have been watching your podcast and blog for weeks without any need to speak up, but this I must say has been very informative for me. I have used glue joint bits thinking I was getting a better bond however your logic makes plenty of sense. Thank you Marc for saying it striaght up and making me think deeper about the glue joint bit benifit. I suppose this could be classified as a woodworking paradigm.
glue line bits make your furniture look cheap and very nasty!
If you want it to look like some kind of mass produced Swedish cr*p, go ahead.
A well jointed edge with a few biscuits for alignment (whats not to like about biscuits?) gives a virtually seamles join and nice end grain finish.
A bit of a rant, but its Friday and I’ve had a bad week with the “client from Hell”
Where’s the beer?!
I just made a table top using 15/16″ thick, 6 1/4″ wide black ash boards, edge glued. I used a wedge glue joint bit (supposed to line up the edges) with a router table and feather boards both to hold the boards down and against the router table fence. With this thickness of boards, the feather boards failed to take out all of the little bit of bow in the boards. As Brad Nailer said above, a 36″ wide belt sander took care of the ridges. I should have used biscuits to line up the boards, not a wedge glue edge router bit. If your feather boards won’t completely flatten your boards, I would not advise using a glue router bit on the edges.
This is the first episode that I cannot view. It starts out okay, but then sputters, stops, starts, and then just stops altogether. Did you change to a new format? Your interview with Dave Marks was great BTW.
Please note that I also tried to download the low-rez file, but it wouldn’t run on my RealPlayer either. Again, this is the first episode that I’ve encountered a problem with.
Fantastic work and I love your presentation style,
Hey there CWS. Nothing different about the video. Sounds like the download is just stalling for some reason. Make sure after you hit play, then hit pause and let it buffer for a while. As for the small file, you should probably use Quicktime for those.
Im glad you enjoyed the interview and I appreciate the kind words.
Hi, My streaming vidio also freezes; I will try the ‘pause’ technique you suggest.
My comment on Wetzler clamps, based on an expert instructor from Marc Adam’s School of Woodwokring, Steven Procter by name. He LOVES Wetzler. Partiularly likes not only their sturdy construction, and the fact that the screw comes out parallel with the bar evrery time (not true with Bessey’s). but the fact that they have that little pad cast into the head so that you can stand up a glued up assembly on it’s head, all the tops of the clamps sitting level on the floor. Checi out the picture.
Mike
Couldn’t you cut a circle the size of your yo-yo out of a piece of plywood or other so that part of the circle is set on the edge. This would hold your work piece against the fence of a router table. Don’t cut the yo-yo stock to thickness. Then you can spin the yo-yo from above with fingers safe and cut it after the edges are routed. The little rout-able edge would protrude from the edge of the plywood into the bit.
since you have to put a dowel in the inside center of the Yo-Yo to connect the two sides use a screw to attach each side to a piece of plywood, once you are done routing the shape you can drill out the hole to an appropriate size for the dowel (assuming that is how you construct it)
Guys : I have a solution that will be worthwhile if you are making lots of them… use a vacuum clamping hold-down for routing! I invested in a vaccum pump a few years ago and have never regretted it. It can be used for veneering as well.
I would invest some money in a small lathe and save a few fingers in the process.. plus you can do some intricate designs..also some cool accessories that go with them like the chatter tool !!!
I second the use of a small screw to mount the yo-yo side to some plywood (or similar) and free-hand rout the edge. You can use some scrap the same thickness as the yo-yo around the outside to support the router since the yo-yo is fairly small. Be sure to give yourself enough space for the bit.
Great stuff! I have many videos to watch before I catch up with all of them, but just wanted to post a note and congratulate you on your work. Thanks for this stuff.
Definitely a lathe is your best option, however if you are running short on cash, and you can’t find a midi-lathe on ebay, craig’s list, or other; try using your drill press (that you probably already have). It will spin the wood through the hole you already have to make. If you haven’t yet, you can make a MDF or plywood table for it and use a steel rod for a tool rest for chisels or without the steel rod and make some pull gouges and scrapers. If you do make the table for the table saw remember to use at least 2 sections of 3/4 cabinet grade or MDF glued together for extra stiffness.
I’ll also vote lathe. You can do so much with it. Yoyos with a screw chuck are easy and fun. Plus you may find yourself in the legions of us who do very little flat work. Round is where it’s at. (unless of course you are into multi-axis turning, but that’s another post)
I was truly amazed (jealous, inspired… yada yada yada) as to the quality of the pieces those kids produced! It’s refreshing to see some of the younger generation taking such an interest in woodworking and doing so well. I wonder if any of them are looking for an apprentice??
BTW wasn’t that the Beauty and the Geek at the end?? Well as much as beast fits…:)
Question from a novice woodworker – how do you stain the table top? Do you first stain one side, let it dry, then the other side? Or is there a technique to do top/bottom at the same time? Not sure where I would leave the table top resting without damaging the finish….
I couldn’t help myself. When I saw Lazcano’s Ryu; had to touch it. Don’t tell. Also, you should’ve put “contains graphic images” on the beginning. I almost had a heart attack when the beast arrived at the end!
Very impressive indeed. Any idea what wood was used on the seat of “the harp” (the piece shown above)? Any idea what type of joint was used to attach the legs to the seat? Thanks.
I am from Bangladesh. Can you give me the basic formulation of Salad Bawl Finish. Can you tell me is mustard ( brown) oil FDA complient for wooden utensils like cutlary, serving plates etc?
Hi Tutu. Most salad bowl finish in the US is just varnish. As for mustard oil, I never even heard of it. From what I can see though it seems to be a kitchen oil. Most oils like canola oil, vegetable oil, and oilive oil will go rancid on a cutting board. So please, do your research on mustard oil before applying it to the board.
One of the students in the furniture construction program that I attend at the University of Cincinnati had a piece there. He was working on it while we were making clocks. I don’t know what he called it, but it reminded me of a very stylized adirondack chair.
All I can say about those pieces is “WOW!” Nice stuff. Amazing work, and like Marc said, just imagine what these “students” will make later in their careers. Truly impressive work.
I had to wonder if the names were real when the first one listed was “Jessica Wood.” I thought maybe Marc was having fun with us…
As for the picture at the end, next time please post a warning that the following image may frighten small children and unsuspecting viewers! :-)
Thanks for sharing even more from AWFS! More inspiration for us all!
Since I started woodworking as a hobby I’ve read a lot of issues of the usual magazines: Popular Woodworking, Fine Woodworking, Woodsmith, etc… The thing is that after a while they start to repeat themselfs. I mean after the eight article about how to do a dado you really don’t want to read anymore. And the majority of the projects in those magazines follow in general the same basically square theme.
During the last couple of weeks I’ve been exposed to a more challenging kind of woodworking like for example all the angles on Marc’s step stool, the Rough Cut podcast and now most of the pieces shown on this video.
I know this type of piece is more complicated to do and document, and that there is a high level of craftmanship required to do them. I guess my question is what resources or magazines are out there that may help us hobbyst push the envelope a little but and maybe someday do a project like the ones shown in here.
The only magazine i still subscribe to is Fine Woodworking. There are a few others out there that decent, but when I had to pick just one I went with FWW.
So aside from magazines, you should probably start doing some Googling for individual craftspeople. Start looking for different artists’ websites and you should find some goodies. Also look at some of the big name woodworking schools and see who they have teaching. Look those people up as well.
I definitely agree with what you said about using the internet. I, too, have found that magazines eventually repeat over time so using the internet is a huge help.
I know that you can pay a small fee to subscribe to FineWoodworking.com and you have access to all of there old articles on PDF. You can search for specific stuff that can be a big help.
For what it’s worth, I was not paid to say that about FWW.com. I did, however, just get a free one month subscription to FWW.com from DeltaPorterCable and so far it has been awesome.
That’s the best part of the internet age — so much info that is so easy to find. You can also try the local library and search old magazine articles that way.
Thanks for the great question and answer… like most (I think) people, finishing is the part I’ve always been most concerned with. I’m always nervous at the end of a project that I’ll have spent all that time making sure my piece is flat, square and sturdy, just to mess it all up with the finish!
Hey Ron. The primary disadvantage I see with a lacquered top is scratching. You can also have problems with moisture as well. Blushing (white haze) can occur from too much moisture as well. This can all change if a catalyzed lacquer is used. A good cat lacquer can rival some of the best polyurethanes in durability. Not perfect, but still pretty darn good.
I am confused. You stated that “An oil/varnish blend is ok, but probably not the right finish for a heavily used table. Your best bet would be full-strength varnish.” And the Arm-R-Seal label states that it is an Oil & Urethane Top Coat. What is the difference between this and an oil/varnish blend?
Good question Pete. I should have been more clear. You are absolutely correct. Seal-a-Cell is an oil/varnish blend. But I am recommending that for the first two coats. That way the piece gets the benefit of the added “warmth” that oil brings to the wood. It tends to impart a nice amber color. The topcoat is really where all the protection comes into play. So hitting it with 3-5 coats of Arm-R-Seal (a pure varnish), gives you the protection you need on a table. But the color is a bit warmer than it would have been if the Seal-a-Cell had not been used.
How about rounding the sides before cutting the blank clear of the laminate?
Use a circular jig outside your router to create a clear channel and then round over with the same jig. The jig is has a base with a cut out that holds the yo-yo blank in a recess using double stick tape (yeah, stole that from Mark). Then flip the blank and perform the same operation. Then release the yo-yo with a straight bit.
I think his question was because Arm-R-Seal doesn’t say “pure varnish” on the front of the can. Instead it says: “oil and urethane topcoat”, which seems remarkably similar to the “combination of oils and urethanes” in the product description for Seal-a-Cell. Is it just that one has more resin than the other?
(Unfortunately, the General Finishes website doesn’t have a separate product info datasheet for the Seal-a-Cell. MSDSs are similar to my uneducated eye.)
Good topic! I have been absolutely intimidated by finishing so I went and bought an excellent book on the topic. It is by Bob Flexner and is called “Understanding Wood Finishing.” I highly recommend it. It is onsale for half price at Rockler.com now (unfortunately I way overpaid for it at a local bookstore). Here’s a link: http://www.rockler.com/product.....r%20Outlet. $9.95 :)
Do you know if local stores carry these products? I looked for them today at the big box store (orange one) and couldn’t find them. S&H is pretty expensive on big gallon buckets of varnish!
Marc, I just ordered the wood so I can get cracking on a couple of these cutting boards. I’ve only just bought a table saw so I think that this will be a great second project (the first was a birdhouse. :-) )
Thanks for putting this podcast together. I’ve watched this particular episode many times dreaming about the day I’ll FINALLY get the stuff together to give it a try.
Marc,
I like the changes you’ve made to the show. The new intro is great, the tool tips are nice as well as the other graphical items tossed in there.
I’d also like to thank you for showing the “real” version of the liegh jig. I’ve got the previous model (the D4) and I do like it (though I need to practice more) but it was nice to see you showing the details such as the test board. No other woodworking show seems to show that part and it truly is a critical step.
Thanks again, you and Nicole are doing a fantastic job!
Darryl
I’m one of those nut-bars who are trying to reverse time by going back to hand tools. This sounded like a good idea until I faced my first rough board with nothing but a hand plane. I have, however, thoroughly enjoyed the process of hand cutting dovetails. While these ego-boosting joints are a real buzz to see, the main reason for their use, I believe, is their ability to offer an extremely strong glue joint. End grain to end grain glue joints have no strength, end grain to long grain has some strength, but long grain to long grain is brutally strong, and that is exactly what a dovetail joint gives you – lots of long grain to long grain contact for a lasting joint.
wow, Marc – really demystifying the process for us newbies. I love the new changes to the format – it’s looking so well produced that I’m ready to hear it being bootlegged by DiY….lawsuits pending, of course. :)
Great podcast. I watch alot of woodworking shows and noone, even Norm, ever shows all the set up that goes into makikng dovetail joints. Thanks for the demo.
lol now thats a classic. After a second comment I figured I needed to go back and review the details again you guys are absolutely right. I did reverse my pieces. Is this a “do as I say and not as I do” situation? lol.
Oh well. Just remember, pins on the fronts/backs and tails on the sides. Damn good thing those were just “props” for the show. ;) Incidentally, I made an error note in the actual show notes.
Kirch- It does take quite a while. The filming was done over the course of 2-3 days, but it wasn’t the only thing I was working on. So lets say 1 day of filming. The editing took me about 2 days. Now the reason for that is because I am using new editing software and I am still getting comfortable and experimenting with different graphics. But eventually the editing will get faster.
Hey Marc very good dove tail video.
I would like to say one thing about a comment you made during the opening. “Don’t let the customer or recipients standard of quality dictate your level of quality”.
But if you recall when you built the armoire with the louvered doors I asked you if you had thought about talking the customer out of using doors that didn’t match. since your work would be judged by others on its appearance. You became somewhat agitated and said you have to do what the customer wants!
Tthats who pays the bills. And that I probably wouldn’t like your other work either.
Well Marc I do like your work for the most part. But you might consider that constructive criticism although hard to hear sometimes isn’t a personal attack on you. And believe me after being in the business longer that you have been alive I have had my fair share of criticisms and attacks.
So to end this rant, Marc don’t say “Well whatta ya think guys” if you don’t want to know what people think.
Hey Terry. I think you misunderstood the point I was making. The louvered doors were something the customer wanted. I didnt necessarily like the way they looked. But that had absolutely nothing to do with “quality”. The doors were finely crafted and they suited the customer’s taste. There is a big difference between the concepts of style/taste/aesthetics…………..and quality. Let me give you an analogy. You are a painter and the customer wants a certain wall painted pink. You think pink is ugly, but the customer insists they want it pink. So you paint the wall pink. Your responsibility then is to paint that wall with the best techniques you know how, regardless of the color.
So with woodworking, if you have certain quality standards, than I believe you should always strive for those standards even if the customer would be satisfied with less. And of course, to survive in this business, you occasionally need to compromise those standards to bring a piece down to a price the customer is looking for. But when this happens, I make sure the customer is fully aware of what they are getting……and more importantly, what they are NOT getting.
And if I do ask what you guys think about something, I am fully prepared to take criticism, good and bad. I may not always like it, but I don’t think I have ever responded unreasonably to criticism.
Cool video Marc. I have been wanting to buy one of those dovetail jigs, it’s great to see the ins and outs of how to use one. One of the things I learned in working in a production woodshop is always mill setup pieces when preparing your materials..they are indispensable! Another thing is, no matter what your personal tastes are you have to give the customer 100% of the quality that you’re capable of, regardless of how they want it finished. I cant count how many times we would make a beautiful wine cellar out on vertical grain fir and the customer would end up painting it..or a beautiful set of mahogany entrance doors..again just to be painted. Sacrilege in my book, but..what the customer wants….
Great demo on dovetails. Since I have the Leigh systems, I plan to use your video to refresh its setup….. Thank you
Suggestion… since you reversed the pin and tail setup, please consider redoing this video… your presentation is a terrific training reference for those who infrequently use a dovetail system.
Larry. Remake the video? lol. I was lucky to get the video out the first time.
The good thing is that most people would not have even picked up on the error if I didnt announce it. In the video, When I said I was cutting pins, I was actually cutting pins. When I said I was cutting tails, I was actually cutting tails. The mistake is only visible when I am doing the test fit and you see me fitting a piece of wenge with tails, to a piece of maple with pins. The actual process and setup and spoken advice is all accurate. Just pretend you are color blind and there will be no confusion. :)
Thanks for giving me dovetail fever. I was watching your podcast at 3a.m. last night(up with a sick kid) and I came thisclose to running out to the garage to run a few pieces through my D4 to see if I could minimize tearout, get them snugger, get some test pieces in the kitchen so my wife would make me breakfast, give me a back rub, etc….
Didnt realize the effect dovetails had on the significant others! Thanks for the additional non-woodworking insite and wish me luck!
Also, yet again, kudo’s for the continued evolution of TWW to you and Nicole!
Not to turn this into a debate but rather a discussion, I do understand where you are coming from although you kind of lost me at the pink wall. All I’m saying is that by putting yourself out there with your pod casts and different endeavors you have become, like it or not a figure that the younger woodworkers look up to a teacher. And as a surviving and thriving woodworker and loving the craft what bothers me the most is when someone that teaches or advises the next generation woodworker ,that’s good enough, no one will see it there or even, I didn’t really like it but its what they wanted. Woodworking isn’t like a lot of things that no one will care about in a hundred years if you are good and take pride, in a hundred years people will care.
And when I know something is wrong I say no. whether its color materials or joinery good enough isn’t good enough unless its your best. Put your name on your work if it makes you proud. I’ve never signed a piece and added I wish I hadn’t done it like that.
Marc, I realise it will be PITA but I would pull this video and re-edit the corrections else it will come back to haunt you. I agree with others who have commented on it as an excellent educational resource but as it stands it will confuse those who are new to this game – especially as you go to the trouble of explaining why the tails and pins go where they do.
Hey Terry. Of course we are still buds. I guess everybody has a different philosophy. I consider the door style an aesthetic issue, not a quality issue. I believe that something can look like crap, yet be well constructed. Alot of the artistic furniture I see is exceptionally ugly, but I have to marvel at the skill involved in building the piece. So I suppose we, as woodworkers, need to decide where to draw our personal “line”. From my experience, if every piece I build has to conform to my own taste and my own likes and dislikes, I would never make any money. When a customer commissions me to build a pre-designed piece, I am not in much of a position to change their design. Yes, it takes the art out of it, but I wasn’t hired for my artistic vision in this case. I was hired for my technical skill. And I think that’s where we differ. That sounds like a job you would have turned down. For me, it was a no-brainer. The money was good and I need to eat.
This customer’s design essentially revolved around these doors. The doors were a distinct part of his vision. Telling him his doors dont look right to me would be roughly equivalent to telling him I dont like his hair cut. I have to know where to draw the line between an opinion, and a necessary design suggestion.
And on a second note concerning the video, right now its just not feasible to redo the video. This video is by no means a step by step how-to on machine dovetails. No one should be able to take this video alone and go cut some dovetails. It was really meant to cover the basic concepts and provide tips and tricks that you might not otherwise see. With a written correction, this comment thread, and a user’s manual, I have faith that even beginners will understand and not be hindered by the error. Perhaps when my schedule frees up I will go back and reshoot those scenes. Hell, maybe I will just shoot a correction announcement and insert that into the video. :) In fact, I think that’s just what I will do.
You said it Mitchell—a really tough crowd. This is how I see it:
Marc and Nicole are not only running a successful woodworking business but also a successful website, which I suspect is even more challenging.
Is there any room for improvement in their work? Sure, but their customers are satisfied and they are having fun doing it. Now there are times when you need a kick in the butt to move to the next level. We all do from time to time, but I have always followed this rule:
Praise individuals in public and criticize them in private.
Great show!! I have a leigh jig and learned a few tips from you that I plan to incorperate in my shop.
You mentioned in your show that you can use any wax applied to the tools. The problem is that the wax must be silicone free (many waxes contain silicone). The silicone can interfere with finishes down the road. I personally use pure carnuba wax. It is a little spendy, but when you think of the $$$ we have spent on our tools, I feel it is well worth the extra cost.
Keep up the great work. I look forward to future episodes.
Shannon
Marc, great podcast again, but one other thing that was a little confusing to a newbie. The video seemed to skip the step describing how you determine spacing for each individual pin/dovetail. You showed where the end pieces fit but then it skipped to …. now it is set up and you were tightening screws. Is each one evenly spaced, does it matter or is it something you just eyeball ? Not a criticism , just a question.
Hey Marc, thank you so much for the step-by-step on the machine-cut through dovetail process. Once again, and as always, you’ve delivered a high quality podcast with both solid information and a good sense of humor.
As for the snafu with the tails on the fronts, I think you deserve a little slack. I think it looked kinda cool. What would stop you from putting a dowel vertically through the tails and pins, to support the “mistake”?
Hey Runningwood. The awesome part about that jig, and other jigs as well, is that the spacing doesn’t matter. Whatever looks good to you. But as always, consult the users manual for your particular jig just to be sure of the spacing situation.
Hey You Damn Hippie. :) You certainly could dowel the dovetails if you wanted to. But truthfully I dont think all is lost if you assemble a drawer backwards like that. Honestly, a nice tight fitting joint and a little glue will go a long way. There is still lots of long grain to long grain glue surface and I think you would still have to break the joint completely to get them apart. So although its not the “proper” way to do it, I dont know that I would trash a whole project if you realized at the end that the pins and tails were reversed.
Marc, I guess know you know why Norm never got more specific than the basics! As usual I did learn some tricks of the trade that will make my dovetails better and easier but I think that cutting dovetails with a router is one of those things that you need to do yourself with your jig and your manuel.
On a different subject I am now completely caught up with the T Chisel rough cut show thanks to your link. He is quite a character and a craftsman.what Are your thoughts on Tommy and his bombe secretary?
Good podcast on the Leigh jig. You almost have me wanting one :-)
I say almost because, like you I started off with the Rockler jig and hated it, learned to cut dovetails by hand, and then recently bought a Keller jig for functional dovetails. I may eventually get a D4R if I find myself having to make a lot of multiples of drawers like for a gang run of dressers for someone (and can absorb it into the job).
At first I thought the Keller was the poorman’s dovetail jig, but in reality, its super efficient and produces excellent functional dovetails with the absolute minimum of set up. I use mine in conjunction with the router table and its definately the get r done dovetail jig.
ps The power went out in my area of Los Angeles on Saturday and it was 106 outside. I can’t fathom what its like to live in Arizona with the heat you have to deal with.
Forgot to say..the video quality is excellent….the new camera is really working for ya. The dovetail type details look like Sketchup to me…wow…Getting fancy! Next maybe some animations?
Grest piece on the dovetail jig. I do a few things differently than you showed but that is the beauty of this machine. It will allow different procedures for those of us that wish to use them. You almost can not do it wrong if you read the book, you only need to pick the way you like best. One factor is Marc’s use of two routers and the setup involved. I use one router and reset my router. you did a good job Marc despite some of the comments and I sure appreciate it. Dean Knight
Marc & Nicole… Awesome video… the new equipment and software has made a perceptable difference. Thanks for the T-shirt… now offer a grey one so i wont ruin the next one I order first time out… white and me should not be allowed together… How about grey or navy blue…
I think some here need to cut the man some slack! At the beginning of the podcast did you see the caption that said “this podcast will replace the owner manual”? Neither did I because it wasnt there! Also, if you pull up the DIY Network, you won’t find the WoodWhisperer because they are not shooting the podcasts! These podcasts are being done by Marc and Nicole on their own dime. They are not being directly paid by someone to shoot these.
As far as the pins and tails being backwords, who says that is wrong. I recently had a commission where the customer wanted the drawers of their cabinet built witht the tails pointing out! It actually looks nice and the customer is happy. Besides, if you cut the pins and tails correctly and glue them together, you WILL NOT pull them apart. So who’s to say what is backwards?
I wonder how much crap the rest of us would catch if we put our projects on a website and had them critiqued by every tablesaw owner in the world? I don’t think I would enjoy my work being disected grain by grain.
great show, great podcast!
Just an expansion on a comment you made in the intro to your dovetail podcast. The old Chinese certainly knew and occasionally used dovetails. Dovetails were one of the simpler joints and as far as I know were rarely used as structural elements in fine furniture. Of course there are few notable exceptions such as this one: http://www.wkfinetools.com/tUs.....tail11.asp
Fantasic work on the new season! I really enjoyed the new video on the D4R, as I purchased one just one month ago. Any words of wisdom on using plywood in the jig for drawers? Your tips on tape and backer board really helped, but I found I had to put a board on the front side as well. Also, I pre-cut my dadoes for the drawer bottoms, but my pin placement must be slightly off, because my joints did not line up when attaching the sides and front. Maybe I would be better to cut those after?
Mark-
WOW – I mean WOW!!!!
I am not sure there was EVER that many comments from listeners?
Here is my two cents – DO NOT REDO the video!!!! (Yea I saw that you already said you wouldn’t) – but here is the thing. What many of us like about your site and specifically the pod casts – is the fact that you are DOING this (whatever technique or project etc.) and the reality is we do things wrong – that is life! That is life in the shop – you have to pay attention, you have to block out those things from work or what ever and as you point out sometimes it is not easy and that is when we make mental mistakes that as in this case are not easily fixable! But if I were in your shoes, I probably would have played up the fact of the mistake as a training point of “Measure twice, cut once” (In this case stop, look and make sure of your pin and tail boards!) (Sorry Nicole – skip to the next sentence!) Because noone wants to screw up their chance for a good tail!
Thanks again Mark for a GREAT pod cast and learning opportunity!
Finally, a podcast where Marc is using the venerable OF 1400 EQ. Nice to see German engineering used in such a nice setting (cutting dovetails of course). I like how the ease and control of the fine micro-adjust were demonstrated cuZ i am gonna use the same router to make my own dovetails.
You could have taken the easy way out and explained that this particular drawer is not narrow side to side, and deep front to back, but wide side to side and shallow front to back. Oh…..and those color differences……thats a design element. Yeah….thats the ticket…a design element! ;-)
I ain’t nowhere near ready for dovetails yet…but I sure enjoyed the video. Keep up the good work.
Marcs’ answer is right on. I miss having a wide belt sander available to me. We would mill all stock 1/16 over and sand everything into final dimension, up to 120 grit. Cuts down on your hand sanding, and gives you consistant material thickness for all parts. Not to mention the ability to sand huge table tops was like a dream! At least even with an open end drum sander you could do everything short of sand the tabletops.
The mistake you made on the dovetails, and the wonderful way you handled it shows that you are trying to TEACH us not just make a presentation. Great job. I learned a ton.
I have found that I use my drum sander more and more. To me, it is better for the average, casual woodworker than the planner as with the planner you have to start with one surface flat. If you are working with over size boards or glued up pannels, this is impossible in a small shop. The sander is slow but at least solves the problem of one flat side. If I try to use hand tools or smaller sanders, I almost always get a variety of thickness and often have valleys and ridges. With the drum sander if you pay attention to stock feed and drum pressure and take your time you really get a consistent result.
Marc, the reason I love this site so much is because you are a kick-butt woodworker and craftsman, but you are also human and YOU AREN’T AFRAID TO ADMIT IT! No offense to Norm Abram or any other big-time woodworker, but you never see them screw up (yet you know they do).
I learn more from you from what you do right and wrong than all the rest combined. Being human helps us see common errors and realize that when we screw up, we are learning from our experience and that is okay.
THANK YOU for providing yet another awesome podcast. You are the BEST! And a few new bloopers never hurt either! :-)
Do you ever see yourself upgrading to a Timesaver (like Norm) or is the more portable drum sander the limit? I’m just curious how big an operation you need before you make the investment in a Timesaver. How much of a difference is there between a decent drum sander and a Timesaver?
Mike in St. Paul
P.S. I guess in all fairness, Norm probably got his Timesaver comped so maybe that’s not a fair comparison.
Hey Mike. I could probably “get by” with my Performax sander forever. I doubt I would ever shell out the cash for one of the bigger units like the TimeSaver. But what a nice luxury to have, huh? So if you ever see a big drum sander in my shop, you can bet I didnt pay for it. :)
I know, I know. I’m extremely late viewing your latest podcast. MY BAD! But, I’m
kinda glad I didn’t watch until now, because I usually only see the comments made before mine. The comments on this podcast truly show your impact in this new realm of woodworking education. If your podcast were not interesting, informative, and very highly watched, you would not be receiving the highly emotional and varied responses. After I figure out if I can ever master my Woodrat, I might think about a Leigh jig. Thanks again for always entertaining me and thanks to all you regulars who love woodworking and TWW enough to have strong opinions, which are also very entertaining.
My own little piece on a drum sander. Thoroughly think through the engineering before purchasing a drum sander. I have the Delta and the problem there is that the table(instead of the drum head) is what moves. Not a problem until you are sanding long pieces that need in-feed and out-feed support. Think about it, I didn’t. Anyone wanna buy a Delta drum sander so I can afford my new Performax?
Can you recommend a respirator for comfort? I worry they might be uncomfortable or cause safety glasses (or regular glasses) to fog up. I always wear hearing and eye protection, but I’ve not started with the lung protection and would like to find an effective, but most importantly, comfortable, solution. Thanks for any advice.
Excellent job on the episode! I really like the widescreen format.
Two questions about this episode:
1. One of the best features about Festool routers, I’m told, is the dust collection. It looks like you didn’t hook up the dust collection while routing out the tails and pins. Is there a reason for this?
2. From a production standpoint, how long does it take for you to finish a dovetailed drawer using the Leigh jig, including setting up the jig, doing your test cuts, and cutting out the dovetails with your “good” boards?
Hey Wilbur. The Festool dust collection is indeed the best in the business, but on a dovetail jig, it is off little use. The dust collect of all routers is above the base. The vacuum sucks the chips up as the bit creates them. On a dovetail jig, the bit is below the base, the jigs fingers, and is housed by a guide bushing. There is virtually no way the suction can reach the bit. So on a dovetail jig, the only effective dust collection will occur below the router. I believe Leigh just came out with a vacuum attachment that does just that.
As for the production time, I have never really timed it. But I would say I could have a set of dovetails cut in about 30-45 minutes.
Marc: Saw one of your videos for the first time yesterday. I really appreciate your approach of candor, humor and youth to a somewhat stodgy industry. I will try to support you financially so you can keep it going. Thanks.
Marc, yes Leigh did come out with a vacuum device as you said. The other factor that has Leigh in business is the quality and repeatability. If all of us could cut them by hand and have them 1/2 as nice we would cut them by hand. To most of us the time is not the factor it is the quality. I wany my dovetails to look like yours or Norms (God bless Norm) and there is only one way I can do that and that is to use a Leigh jig.
Dean
One item re:dovetail jigs. The Leigh is probably #1 on the gold standard but there is a jig out there called the Stotts which you make yourself. Granted it only makes through dovetails but for about $40 fee you can get the template and build it as long as you want and it cuts a pretty good eyeball dovetail for much less than the Leigh. Once you make the jig, it does not take 30-40 minutes to dovetail all four sides of the drawer, if you can remember to keep them in proper order.
The info you gave is perfect. I even once tried to use a piece of tarpolin suspended about 1 foot over a huge panel i was finishing some years back. It actually worked, but it took forever to setup. I also use wipe on poly, and do thin it on the first and last coat.
Another idea is to have a higher temp in the shop as well. A temperature of 10 degrees higher than standard room temperature also helps the finish cure faster.
Also you may want to try water-based finishes! In some cases, they can dry faster than shellac finishes. I find that major horizontal surfaces (tables, chests, dressers, etc.) need tough oil-based finishes. But the sides (gable ends), i use water based with great results.
The smell is greatly reduced, and you don;t have to wear a mask (you should always anyway)! But with oil, it can be unbearable in a small space.
I am troubled that so many wood working people point to the example of glue line failures that show pieces of wood still bonded to the glue, and then say “The long grain glue bond in a tabletop glue-up is stronger than the wood itself.” This is false. Perhaps the bond between the glue and wood is strong enough to cause the pull out of wood fibers that it bonded with, but to my knowledge all of the failures these wood workers point to occur adjacent the glue line. Stress points build within material at changes in properties, ie. stiffness, shear and tensile strength, density, etc. The glue line does just this, and the failure mode that people are pointing to supports this. If the glue line is as “strong”, then the failures should occur with equal frequency some distance away from the glue line. Glue joint and finger joint bits provide a distribution of stress over a relatively large width of the board, and will provide more strength. The question should be, is this necessary? To that I would say no. A glue line joint provides more than enough strength if done right.
Hey Rolf. I totally see your point, but I have to disagree with you. I suppose I interpret it differently than you do. I agree that the change in rigidity caused by the glue bond will usually result in a crack or split somewhere adjacent to the glue line. I still interpret that result as “stronger than the wood itself” which supports my original assertion. I dont understand how you interpret this as disproving that claim.
Obviously, ANY joint will result in a weak point. Its inevitable. The point is that if the wood is going to break, it will not break at the joint. So when answering questions about reinforcing a long grain joint, my answer is that it is not necessary simply because the long-grain glue bond will not fail before the wood itself fails.
At least we both agree that in general, these extra steps are not necessary for a standard tabletop. :)
Great info. On oil poly you might want to use water when you use the 2000 grit sandpaper. It is wet/dry super mega fine stuff and can give you a mirror like finish with high gloss poly. Use a spray bottle and lightly mist the surface, this will keep the paper from clogging and it acts as a lube for the sanding. Sanding block/sanding dowels should also be used wherever possible.
I had a large piece to finish and obtained a very good result by simply hanging some clear plastic sheeting from the ceiling. This worked great and was simple to construct. From watching the painters who work on my house, I get the idea they do the same when applying varnish and poly.
I use a coat or two of brush on poly sanding with 400 between coats (you really need to let this dry or it will pill up when you sand if it’s not dry). I’ve found that wipe-poly by itself doesn’t give enough of a base unless you put about 10 coats on and I don’t want to spend this kind of time. To prove to yourself how little wipe-on goes on try measuring the amount of wipe-on poly that you actually use for a coat and and you’ll be amazed at how little goes on. Anyhow, after it’s dry wipe a couple of coats of wipe-on poly with a light 600 sanding in between. You can finish with a final wipe-on satin, a light rubbing with 0000 steel wool followed by wax, or simply a coat of wipe-on gloss poly if you want a higher sheen. Virtually no dust problems and a great finish.
Thanks Greg and thanks Vic for pointing him to Episode 6. Eventually I will do a full episode on the setup of the jointer. Kinda like I did for the bandsaw. Now that I have finished all the commissions I was working on, I can really focus on determining a filming schedule. So the best I can say right now is……”soon”. :)
I understand you cut the pins and tails in the wrong boards by accident. I do on occasion cut them this way intentionally when I want to show them off. Visually the tails are much more interesting to view I think. In order to overcome the loss of the lock offered by a properly cut dovetail I dowel the joint.
Once everything is cut I dry fit everything to assure fit then glue up the drawer as normal. Once the glue is dry, from the bottom I drill a 3/16” hole to within ½” of the top on both corners. I then glue in a dowel rod. The joint is as strong as any but has some unique visual interest. The look afforded by seeing the tails isn’t for every piece but on some it is striking.
Well, unfortunately the song is identifiable with several other internet shows as well. Its a royalty-free track from Apple and is quite popular. I decided for the sake of originality to go with a less known royalty-free track. I also don’t think the other song would have been an appropriate fit for the new intro.
Marc, I was wondering what software application you are using for your podcast editing. I’ve been playing with iMovieHD, which has some limits but the ease of use has been a real time saver for my limited videos.
The out takes at the end are great! I really need to get out to the shop and start putting stuff away. I like your previous concept of “Put 10 things away before you start your day in the shop.” Unfortunately, over time, I think it needs to be moved to 15 or 20 things.
Marc- can you write an update once you’ve had a chance to check out the Tenryu? I’m looking to eventually upgrade from my Freud, and it’s pretty much between that and the WWII.
Sylvia is making me tell you this. I mean it in a totally straight and very platonic way. You make me happy! There I said it. O.K.!!!! Yeah, she says that’s good enough. I can come outta my room now.
Another excellent episode, Marc and Nicole! I love how you often tackle topics outside the normal focus of woodworking. You would never see other celebrity woodworkers tackle a whole episode on clean-up, yet it is a topic that affects productivity and safety. Like you said, “a clean shop is a safe shop.” It’s also a heck of a lot more easy to get your work done.
I can’t think of any other place where you get real-world examples on techniques like dovetails and other joinery, plus good information on design, shop equipment, and safety. The variety is what makes this site the most informative and most entertaining.
One thing I can share is an “extra” filter for the shop vac. I read somewhere that you can take a piece of women’s hose (panty hose leg or knee high) and stretch it over your regular shop vac filter to help keep out the fine dust (be careful so it doesn’t tear as you roll it over the filter). I’ve done it and it works great. Granted it doesn’t get the ultra fine dust, but it does help keep the regular filter from clogging. I was surprised how much it helps. You do get some weird looks as a guy when you buy three pairs of women’s panty hose, and the looks don’t get any better when you tell the cashier “it’s for dust collection.” Oh, well… it does work!
Thanks for some awesome tips (and bloopers)! Keep up the great work…
Awesome!!! I look forward to seeing your videos.
I’m glad you are doing this, my wife loves this kind of topic.
Great introduction. Welcome to the vlogosphere!
Cool set-up. I’m looking forward to episode 1. Can you throw in some downloadable plans and specs for the projects?
looking forward to the show
Hey, I’m not gonna email in a comment when I can pop one right in your blog! Right now you have blogger set up so that only someone with a blogger account can post a comment. So my first comment is to suggest you open that up so that others can comment and take advantage of link love between vlogs. Second, I want to say Hooray! Another vlogger in Phoenix, finally! I live here too. Do you know any other Phoenix vloggers? We should have a meetup. Third, great job! I haven’t done any woodworking since I made a keyholder in 7th grade shop, but I’ve got tools. So maybe your lessons will give me a push. Thanks for doing this!
Right on! I don’t even have a garage full of tools but I can tell I’ll enjoy watching anyway!
Looking forward to it!
Marc:
Enough talk. Those look like neat tools hanging on the wall, let’s see them in action!
John Leeke
Very pro looking video.
Thanks for the link on WoodNet Forums. You have done a wonderful job putting the first video together. The music, titles, humor and content blend together very comfortably. Steady camera (tripod, I assume) contributes to the perception of professional production values. I’ll keep coming back to see what you develop next.
Hmmm, cool idea. I remember watching some of the PBS shows that had the traditional tools wood worker. I can’t remember the name. He didn’t use any eletronics just original tools.
I’m not a craftsperson but there is something about handmade furniture and art pieces that has a resonance with me.
Welcome aboard, vlog on…
Gena
Thanks for the feedback and the warm welcome everybody!! I really cant wait to get the more videos up there!!
I fixed the comment setting so now anyone can post. I am new to Blogger and didn’t realize the default setting limits posts to registered users only. Thats just bad for business. :)
I will get the next video up ASAP, that is if I can stop laughing in front of the camera.
Thanks again guys.
Now go build something!
Marc
Thanks (on behalf of those not registered with blogger) for allowing anonymous entries. This is a test to make sure it works.
Bob350
Marc,
I love your new vlog! How cool is that? You, of course, are handsome, articulate and intelligent. I can’t wait to see more! I am new to this vlog stuff, but if you make it easy for us wood hacks, then we will be sure to check in. Keep making sawdust and I will keep checking in. Best of luck!
Gail
Hummingcrow,
The only other vlogger I know of locally is Israel from Izzy Video. I have a link to his site on my main page. He has some really awesome videos on digital video techniques and he really knows his stuff. Check him out at http://www.izzyvideo.com
Love it. Keep going. I’m can’t wait to learn.
Awesome! I used to watch those wood working shows on TV all the time.
Thanks for making this!
– Charles
great stuff
bring on the vids
jedo in Australia
Very Nice! Thanks for the heads up on woodnet.net, I will check back often to see your most recent progress. Great podcast!
Very nice intro video. Your idea holds wonderful promise. Best of luck, I’ll be watching.
Nice vlog you got there Marc. I really enjoy it and I whish you all the best!
Look forward for more of your podcast or should I say vlogcast.
cheers :)
Great episode. Thanks!
You asked for suggestions then here goes…
I’m a truely beginner who’s not sure yet how far I will go with the hobby. I would like to hear more about the basic, inexpensive, small shop. Maybe show how you actually operate the shop using the workbench and the manual tools to create real projects and not just for fixing details of the ones you have done with the power stationary tools.
Thanks again, and keep those episodes coming!
Great job and great idea. You are filling a void. It is really nice to see something like this. I am excited about project or task oriented episodes. I want to watch you go through the process of making different pieces.
Can’t wait to see more.
love the videos!!!! thanks to both of you guys for putting this together!!! it’s really down to earth and a lot of fun to watch!
Mark,
Enjoyed the new episode. keep up the good work.
Rick
You got too much time on your hands…go build something :-)
Seriously, it takes a lot of time and effort to do something like this, and you should keep it up!
amazing shop!
this was a great kick-off video.
keep em’ coming.
Very good video. You are a good presenter.
Michael Hinkel, AJ,AZ
All of us here at August Home Publishing (publishers of Woodsmith, ShopNotes, and Workbench) loved your Episode 2! I especially appreciated your intro as I could identify with you and my wife could probably identify with your wife!
Your cameraperson is very good (Is that your wife?). What kind of a camera are you using? The image on the screen is large and the audio level is perfect.
Most of all, I enjoy the fact that you are having fun and that is obvious. We’re working on some video projects here at August Home and need to bring in more of an “entertainment” value to them. Any secrets you want to share??
Keep the chips flying and try rubbing some padauk sawdust into that salad oil stain. It will give it a nice reddish appearance on your Bob Ross shirt,
Doug Hicks
Executive Editor and Vice President
August Home Publishing
Thanks for the great comments and suggestions everybody!
To answer Doug’s questions….
The camera is a panasonic pv-gs300 and the cameraperson is indeed my wife. And I have plentry of ideas on how to make videos “more entertaining”, but I cant tell them to you. :)
You want those secrets, you have to hire me. lol
Seriously though, I imagine its alot easier for me to make something funny simply because I dont have anyone to answer too if my humor is a bit off-color. I really do wish that more woodworking shows would have a sense of humor.
Are your upcoming videos about woodworking? Would love to get the details when you have them.
By the way, padauk is pretty much a 4-letter word on our laundry room. I only made that mistake once. lol
Marc
G’day Marc,
I really enjoyed your second episode.
Some great setups in your shop, like the cyclone system, but I think your just being greedy with two bandsaws! I also thought the ‘kick off’ switch on your table saw was a great inovation.
I found it interesting during the episode, you would refer to your shop as in the garage. In Australia, we call it a shed! The great Aussie Shed is a thing to be proud of, and can even be officially declared such, by a guy who has written books on “The Great Aussie Shed”!
Anyway, I look forward to seeing future episodes and more inovative information.
Well done and best of luck,
GazAly
PS: I’ve found that if you leave your ear muffs on all the time and ignore SWMBO, she’ll eventually give up calling.
PPS: I think youve turned your neighbours place into a desert!
Awesome job.
Can’t wait until number 3.
One day I can say, yeah, I was one of the lucky ones who saw thewoodwhisperer before tv show, the dvd’s, the feature length film… smile
You both do a wonderful job.
Stan
Marc -
You’re doing everyone a great service here.
Your material is just jammed with useful material for the budding Greene & Greene practioner!
Thank you.
You’ve got a sensational sense of humour and a great communication style.
All the best.
Howard Rosenberg
Wow! To imagine that I knew you before you were a PROFESSIONAL DORK! I know you work really hard in your quest for popularity, so I expect nothing except exceptional work!
Great stuff,I’ve watched the videos a couple of times now and cant wait for the next one ..The only sugestion I can make is to hurry up and film it,so I wont get dissapointed the next time I open your web site,only to find that it hasn’t changed since the last time I was here.(which happened to be yesterday).
Keep up the good work..
nice work bud.
No posts from highschool friends please! lol
Nice work Marc, the episode is looking really interesting. Your relationship with the chest is not what I’m into, BUT hey, live and let live I say :)
I think your appoach to show different topics as they come into your shop is a great idea. It will allow you to show your real abilities (and flaws LOL) rather than faking them slightly for the camera.
Cheers Marc,
GazAly
Great show, will the .mov file be available for download as it has for other episodes?
Ask and you shall receive. Although I can’t seem to get the file to link up. Let me check a few things and hopefully the hi res version will be up and rolling. Thanks!!
Marc
Looks like the problem was on blip.tv’s end. Should be working now. Thanks for your patience.
Marc
Ah Marc -
You’re a bloody genius.
And hilarious!!
Thank you.
Howard Rosenberg
P.S. – the Django music at the start is a great touch.
You have great taste.
Marc,
Brilliant work on the videos so far! And the inlay tutorial is top notch, as well.
You trying to make us all jealous with the promenant display of the Festool box? Well, it’s working…
Regards,
Ethan
Does it help if I say it was a Birthday present? :)
Festool makes great stuff……but just a tad overpriced…..just a tad…
:)
Well, you may be an embarrassment to the majority of the woodworking world, but I enjoy the videos. I wonder what that says about me . . .
You’re a madman and have a freaky funny sense of humor. Make us Italians proud young man
Awesome video. Keep it going!!
Once again, excellent, just fyi, the high res Quicktime link is to part 1, not part 2, just thought you would want to know.
Bear with my while I get the hang of the new system. Should be fixed now, and thanks for letting me know.
Marc
just wanted to say i think you are on to something really big and i think you will be on television within the next year, but keep up the good work i hope see more soon
I like how you can be more thorough since you do not have the constraints of a 30 minute TV show… Looking forward to seeing more!
Great tip on the cutting board. Back in high school wood shop one of the first projects we did was a cheese cutter, essentially a small cutting board.
Great show Marc, and keep up the good work.
My first wood shop project was a small bookshelf that was to hang on the wall. We needed to draw it in the 3 square, cut it, plane it, assemble it, and paint/stain it.
I started planing what was designed as the second shelf (14″ frame, second shelf 9″ above bottom shelf, sized for paperback books.), a 4″ wide pine board. Being a perfectionist, I checked for square every fifth stroke or so.
Four weeks later, I put the 1 1/2″ piece aside, and asked for another board. And I put the planed edge in the back, so you couldn’t tell that it *still* wasn’t square…
good job mark.. keep em coming..
best video work and editing so far…
I agree – great job on everything so far. The voice-over in the beginning was especially nice, by the way. I always found it easier to understand David Marks when he did voice-overs as opposed to talking during the filming – it stands true here, as well.
I’m blessed with a mentor who is a bit older, has lots of woodworking experience under his belt, and does woodworking for a living. His shop is always open, which is helping me to overcome one of the bigger frustrations of woodworking in the beginning – the lack of tools needed to make woodworking more fun than hassle (especially when it comes to dimensioning lumber).
He’s good at sending me off in the right direction, but he also wants me to make my own mistakes and learn from them. Actually, he says I make my own challenges, too… (I still haven’t figured out if that’s a good thing or not.)
Anyway, my additional advice would be:
Don’t be afraid to make mistakes, especially if you can learn from them! After all, it’s just a piece of scrap wood! You didn’t really try that technique for the first time with your only piece of Cocobolo… did you? Oh, you did? Well… who wants a box that big anyway, right?
(Don’t be afraid to learn from OTHER woodworkers’ mistakes, as well!)
Thank you for the lessons! I find that I need to slow down in my wood working to study the peice more, so I can do a better job. Losing bad habits are very asentual in woodworking and learning the correct approach makes the difference! Thanks Marc
Nice job, and your shop is to die for. Looking forward to seeing how this developes.
Wow! what a great shop. I enjoyed your
tour of your shop. I also can really use your advice given in this video. Keep up the good work.
Another excellent video! Keep up the good work!
Marc, I just found your site. Fantastic! I’ve viewed every podcast at least once. I’m located in Melbourne, Australia, so find it really nice to be able to pick up some professional instruction via the net.
Thanks for a great show!
G’day,
I’ve been enjoying your movies, but the last one was more waffling than anything else, it didn’t really show anything.
Keep up the good work, but more instruction and less waffle would be better.
Gidday MArc
I have looked foward to your show over the past few weeks and have been really enjoying it. WELL DONE!!!
I now consider myself a fan of your show!!! Keep focused on your vision & imparting great information for all of us keen to learn.
Thank you for being a part of keeping the craft well and truely alive!!!
Looking foward to more from the WoodWhisperer
Regards Lou :-)
Hi,
Nice job. I can realy relate to your shop, and your sense of humor. Keep up the good no GREAT work.
James
Hey, Just wanted to let you know I sure do enjoy your podcast. I’m new at this stuff and I really needed “A Lumbering Feeling”.
Lots of good info…and a hot chick who uses the “F” word. What more could you want? ;-)
Keep it up,
Thanks…Sam (NoTalentRookie)
I would suggest to Steve that he make his shelving unit into three sections if visual appeal is important in his project.
I built an entire hallway of floor to ceiling shelves and having them roughly two feet wide looked great. If he does face frame them then having two vertical stiles for support and dividing the shelves into thirds visually would do the trick for strength and aesthetics.
I’ve made bookcases in different widths with no supports between the gables.
The widest one I’ve made has 86″ wide shelves and exhibits zero sag.
I make my stuff entirely out of MDF and never use screws or nails.
As you probably know, MDF has no grain and can’t support its own weight.
The trick is to use housed joints – such as dadoes and grooves.
The dadoes hold the board in place and prevent sag.
They don’t need to be all that deep – 1/8″ deep is fine – but with 3/4″ plywood, you can easily go 1/4″ deep.
I route dadoes and grooves into the gables and back for the shelves to fit into.
You’re best making a jig of some sort that will let you route to the exact thickness you’re dealing with – there are many variances in 3/4″ plywood.
Seeing you don’t want to introduce supports between the gables this is the only way to diminish/eliminate sag.
BUT – you’re gonna need another refinement.
The shelves might sag front-to-rear.
You’ll need to introduce a a face-frame on the shelves themselves to maximize rigidity.
This can be a pain using plywood but you can do loooong mitres on an accurately setup TS.
(It’s obviously more forgiving using MDF and painting it)
But just set the blade for an ACCURATE 45deg and just glue the bastards together.
I’ve done this on about 20 different bookcases without nails.
Works every time.
Marc, your show is awesome. DIY needs to give tools and techniques the boot and get the wood whisperer on there! I’ve checked out all the episodes, you really are doing a great job. I wasnt really digging this one though, I want to see you in the shop, you know…. MAKING SOMETHING! I just got one thing to say about this episode. Nozzle caps buddy. I think I need a better demonstration on how exactly these things work. I dont know how you (and Nicole) made it through that item!
True professionals, BRAVO! LMAO
Oh, I got a challenge for you. If you could someday get the legendary DJM to guest appear on the show, I…… well I dont know, but that would be insane!
Keep up the good work, and like one of the other comments said, keep doing us italians proud big guy!
Do you recommend any books on wood types? (Something that has good images of different types of wood along with information, such as ‘often used in mission style furniture’)
One book that I like alot is The Real Wood Bible. You can find it in The Wood Whisperer Store.
http://astore.amazon.com/thewo.....16-8524845
I actually planned on featuring this book in our Holiday Gift Guide, but had to cut it out because of time issues. But the book is an excellent reference and contains hundreds of color photos as well as descriptions and other information.
Check it out.
Marc
Thank you for such a quick response! Do you get credit if we purchase from the “new or used available” books (books that aren’t actually shipped by Amazon)?
Thats a very good question. I would guess that anything purchased under Amazon’s umbrella would count as a referral. I should email them to find out for sure. Thanks for bringing that up.
Marc
I’m going to hold off purchasing until I know (I want you to get the referal credit). :-)
I just looked at all the fine print and it seems that third party vendors and sellers are treated the same as regular Amazon products. So it looks like you have the green light. I really appreciate you helping out the show. Take care.
Marc
I just found this site based on a suggestion from another message board. Episode 3 was just what I was looking for. I will be a frequenter of your site from now on.
Yeah but Norm would destroy you both with his brad nailer! :)
for close quarters battles, im not sure if a 4″ angle grinder with a lancelot chain saw blade can be beat…
also… for longer range combat…
you can lock the power switch, and swing the cord like a medieval mace
itscool
Wow, Condoms for Calk!!
What will they think of next?
Can’t wait for the “Blooper reel”.
Keep up the good work.
Sam
Excellent! A comment though on the router table alternative for edge jointing – I lack a real jointer, as would likely be the case for somebody looking to use their router table for edge jointing. The problem I found using the shim method to offset the outfeed side is the same as a newbie may encounter using a jointer – in so far as technique with regard to pressure on the outfeed side. It’s easy to turn your piece into some weird parallelogram or diamond shape. Yes you’re essentially making a small jointer on it’s side, but there’s an even easier way than using a shim. Simply take your straight-edge and double-stick tape it to your workpiece. Then, using no technique whatsoever, or even any fence for that matter, simply run it along a bearing guided straight-bit for a perfectly flat, straight and perpindicular to the face joint in one pass.
Happy Jointing!
Good show keep up the good work! Love the big resolution you post your shows to ITunes with. I was wondering why you couldn’t use that nice planner to plane both sides of that board you had? Where you just trying to give many different options to go about it or is a good reason for it? I have always been made to believe jointers were for the edges and planners for the face of the board.
Hi Tim. I am glad you are enjoying the high resolution podcasts.
I certainly could have just thrown that board through the planer, but remember that the goal is to get two perfectly flat and co-planer surfaces. If you don’t flatten one surface first, you wont be able to properly flatten the second surface on the planer.
For instance, that particular board I was working on had a twist to it. So the board would tip in different directions depending on where you apply pressure from above. So if I sent that board through the planer, it would have come out pretty wacky.
Now if you have a rough board that sits pretty stable and is relatively straight, you can sometimes get away with sending it right through the planer. But the proper method requires you to have a trued surface BEFORE it goes through the planer. In most cases, you can true a rough surface with the jointer. But since some boards won’t fit on the jointer, we need some other way to properly flatten one face before sending it through the planer. That’s what I was hoping my alternative would accomplish.
And whoever told you a jointer is only for edges and the planer is only for faces needs a smack on the hand. :) You can and should joint the face of your boards first on the jointer. As mentioned before, passing it through the planer may not give you a perfectly straight and flat board. To see proof of this, think about a 5 foot board that is a little bit bowed. You can send that guy through the planer 20 times and it will still have a bow in it. The only way to remove the bow is to joint one of the faces first.
And one last note, I sometimes use my planer to trim edges too. Especially if I am dealing with 8/4 material. After I joint the first edge, sometimes I find it easier to send it on end through the planer, instead of using the tablesaw. Works great!
I hope that clears things up a bit. If you have anymore questions, please feel free to email me.
Marc
The Wood Whisperer
Now that is some great advise. I think your spot on suggesting Watco or Waterlox. I have one further suggestion for Doug. Get three pieces of scrap and go through the entire finishing process with BLO, Watco(or Waterlox) as reccomended, and Poly(which will be rejected). Have your son pick the finish he wants after a few tests of glass rings, scratches and beer spills. It might change his mind.
Marc,
I’m also new to woodworking. What about filling pores with a slurry of sawdust by wetsanding with Danish oil? I’ve heard this works but you have to wait a few days for the oil to dry/polymerize.
Hey Stan. I imagine you could use the Danish Oil pore-filling method, but I don’t think its the ideal option for repairs. It takes too long to dry and its messy. I generally prefer to make my repairs with quick-drying materials like CA glue, epoxy, and fillers. But I suppose if you were patient enough, the Danish Oil idea would technically work. Good luck!!
Marc
Timbermate waterbased wood filler is pretty good also. Comes in many different colors for pretty much any wood species. Its very stainable and it doesn’t shrink and crack. Only bad thing is it takes a long time to dry.
Hey, just found this site. Great video. I’ll definitely be back.
Nice podcast. Too bad they aren’t a bit longer.
Speaking of planes, I’d like to see a future show on planes: sharpening and using them to create flat surfaces on something large like a tabletop.
tucker
Did anybody but me notice that at the end of Marc’s latest show (A Cut Above, Part I) that TheWoodWhisperer.com was misspelled as TheWoodWhsiperer.com and the same mistake was on the e-mail address. Now, if I know Marc, he will blame this on the Missus. I enjoyed the show anyway!
minor spelling error on your last podcast about the cutting board.
The wood whsiperer is shown on the email address
good episode cant wait for the next!
Why not use Minwax polyurethane? doesn’t that provide a pretty durable finish? You can give a second coat in about four hours.
Gene
Well, that was actually a test to see who was paying attention. You guys win!! :)
Marc
I subscribe to your podcast through iTunes and enjoy them. But …
The cut you made today on the glued up layers of the cutting board is very dangerous. In every table saw book of safety procedures the tell you never to do this.
‘Never cut cross grain against the fence.’ (Try that on Google and see how many hits you get.)
Having said that, I done it a number of times. I always realize that it is not a safe cut and I brace myself and use a good push stick. The push stick you were using could only be described as ‘weenie’.
I’ve placed a crude picture here. ( http://www.americankestrel.com.....hstick.jpg ) I make a couple of these a year and usually embed a magnet in the side to that it is easily attached to the table saw. It is usually made out of plywood and I’ve seen guys that make the sacrificial notch so that it is replaceable.
I can cut one out on the bandsaw in under a minute so I don’t go to that kind of trouble. Drilling and placing the magnet takes a little longer.
Like you and ‘Norm’ I don’t use a blade guard although if I was making a video I would that was because it is easier for the camera to see the cut. I have a splitter on one table saw and think it is a good idea for ‘rough’ or green wood.
Thanks for the show.
Hey Richard. I am flattered by your concern for my safety. ;)
I will address a few of your points though. The general rule about cross-cutting end-grain against the fence stems primarily from the fact that most lumber is much longer than it is wide. So cross-cutting a 6″ wide board that is 36″ long is very dangerous against the fence. In general, you never want to cross-cut anything that is longer than it is wide. But when your end-grain surface is sufficiently wide enough to support the piece through the entire cut, the cut is permissible (at least in my shop). The cut is definitely on the more “challenging” side, but I honestly don’t think its all that dangerous with the proper precautions.
Now I have to defend my weenie push stick. lol. As far as Im concerned, the push stick that gives you the best control over the cut is the best push stick for the job. I actually have several push sticks like yours and I used them on the first few cuts. But I really wasnt happy with the quality of the cut and to make matters worse, the stick would get jammed between my anti-kickback prawls and the fence which is obviously no good. So I opted for my trusty skinny push stick, which yielded a cleaner cut and easily passed between the fence and the splitter. But for many people, a forward-pressure push-stick like yours might be the best option.
And finally, a few words about the splitter/blade guard. I actually DO have a blade guard AND a splitter. And unlike Norm, I dont remove my blade guard and splitter “for clarity”, as I have hear Norm say. My blade guard was pushed out of the way so that I could make the cut safely. There are many cuts where a blade guard actually makes things more difficult and more dangerous. From your last few comments, it actually sounds like you favor a blade guard over a splitter (forgive me if I misunderstood). But do yourself a favor and make sure you have a splitter on your tablesaw whenever possible. The blade guard is a nice feature, but it won’t do a darn thing to protect you against the most dangerous and common tablesaw mishap, Kickback.
It makes me feel good that you are safety conscious. Like I said in my videos, I will always do what I feel is the safest method for me. But if you know of a safer method, by all means use it, and be sure to post it here for everyone’s benefit.
Thanks Richard. Have a good New Year!
Marc
Great video again.
Always entertaining. Keep them coming as there are plenty of us that need to see something to know what is going on.
Marc,
Great episode. I noticed you didn’t mention poly as a choice for the finish. I assume this is because it is completely unsuited for the purpose.
Nice plug for Matt’s Basement Workshop – I have really enjoyed Matt’s content over the past year.
Thanks again for all the effort you put into this – they really are fun to watch.
Marc,
I enjoyed this episode. Keep up your positive attitude – it makes a difference.
And thanks for the nice words about Matt’s BW and our LumberJocks.com
I just found this podcast from some woodworking forum and went through all the episodes in a few days. Great fun to watch and I really like the cutting boards.
Just want to second the “pro-others” approach to your stuff here, Marc. Mention of Matt’s podcast actually turned me on to a resource I’d not yet taken the time to look for, and now am the better for. I’m really starting to digg (hint, hint, everyone) your style and just want to thank you again.
-kiff
DIGG. haha I get it! :)
I guess one of these days I should mention Digg and Podcast Alley. Couldn’t hurt right?
re: Tim’s query: I’ve been taught a jointer is for making a flat surface, a planer is for making two surfaces parallel to one another. (Which is the essence of Marc’s comment.) It’s extremely difficult to substitute one of these machining steps for the other unless the piece was true and square to start with and all you want to do is dimension it.
Hey Paul,
I’m assuming that you treat both sides of the board as well as the edges. Any specific advice on how to do that?
~CZ
Who’s Paul?
Hi Marc,
I also want to know like CZ if you finish both sides, and also, I don’t have the Salad Bowl varnish. Can you use mineral oil now, and in a month or so refinish with Salad Bowl Varnish?
Love your site, humor, tips, and I’ll have to find out about digging…
Cheers
Hey guys. I do indeed treat all surfaces of the board. I didn’t necessarily show that in the video due to time considerations. But all surfaces are treated exactly the same with the same number of varnish coats.
You can use mineral oil first. Just make sure the finish has plenty of time to cure before applying the varnish. And before applying the new finish, I would give the whole board a nice wipe-down with lacquer thinner or denatured alcohol to remove any surface oil. Once it flashes off, you can apply your salad bowl varnish.
Good luck!
Marc
Hi Marc! My thinking is that you made the right thing with these videos. Keep up the good work! Well, the reason I’m posting this is that i have a problem seeing this and only this video. It’s not in MP4 format, but in mov. Is it possible to put a link to the mp4 file? Thanx in advance.
The MP4 file link should be up there. Its right above the .mov link. Its at the very end of the post. Let me know if you need more help.
Marc
dude, you freaking crack me up! I love how you casually continue to eat your snack through out the show!
I can’t see norm stopping for a bit to eat after explaining how he is going to make his next jig!!
keep them coming… I can’t believe I missed this one. I’m going to look for more!
As always, you tell us all. When will be a new video? Can’t wait… :)
Great stuff Marc! Keep up the good work!
Marc,
As ever, you’re experience, knowledge and presentation in the video podcasts are great. It’s nice see someone of my own age presenting, it helps make me feel I can do this.
Excellent… as a woodworker in training.. I appreciate all that you are teaching us here… In fact I am making a doll bed with puple heart head/foot boards and birch posts….. cannot wait to see what it looks like in a few years…
thanks..
nancy
Did anyone else have the movie ad at the end of the podcast? I’m not complaining, but it kinda scared the crap out of me.
I know that Dove commercial makes me a little nervous. :)
Marc
Hahahaha, router table in drag.
you are doing great young jedi. hope all is well, tell Nicole I said hi.
Sascha
excellent tutorial! and I just picked up some purpleheart too! keep up the great work!
Man even your tools look like fine furniture. The router table was sweet.
Good video. How about your thoughts on woods that lighten in color over time? The best example is probably walnut. I’ve got a box I built 25 years ago that is walnut with a padauk inlay. When I made it the walnut was much darker than the inlay. Today, the padauk inlay looks like walnut and the walnut looks lighter than fresh cut cherry.
Marc,
I love the animals just as much as the next guy, but you missed a great opportunity to wear your new organic slim fit Lumberjocks.com t-shirt! You could have scored some serious Martin points, man…
(By the way… you didn’t actually BUY one of those wire-stripping things, did you? My dad picked one up last year when we went to the St. Louis show and I thought him terribly silly for doing so. Don’t get me wrong; it’s a great invention! But seriously, how many times a year does a non-electrician need to strip wire?)
Your timing is funny, I just went to the WoodWorks Show (www.woodworksevents.com) in Springfield MA last week. I had a great time. It was my first woodworking event since getting into the hobby 3 years ago.
One of my favorites of the show I went to was a turners group out of CT. They were a great bunch of guys to talk to, very approachable and supportive. I certainly would recommend to anyone here that’s going to a show to not miss out on the opportunity.
Thanks for putting this episode together. I look forward the the podcast that reveals everything that was gained by “flexing your plastic”!!
Dont know if anyone noticed the image on my shirt. But if you look closely, you will see a very frustrated bunny sitting at a desk taking a written exam. Get it? “Stop Animal Testing? lol.
Its a hilarious shirt but I find that most people just see the big yellow letter and assume I am some kind of animal activist.
Oh and by the way, this video was shot sometime around early November of 2006. I dont think I even knew of Lumberjocks yet. But an organic slim fit shirt sounds like alot of fun.
And no I didnt buy the wire stripper. I have built-in wire strippers. AKA, my teeth.
marc
Hi Marc, I’m catching up on past episodes. But I wanted to let you know that the blip.tv link doesn’t seem to work with Firefox. I have to click the hi-res QT link.
Thats really weird. I just tried all the links myself and they worked just fine. I also use Firefox. And since I use a Mac primarily, I even checked it out on my PC and the videos all played fine. I wonder if it was just a fluke. let me know if you continue to have a problem.
Marc
I like the new layout. it puts the focus more on your posts where it should be.
Hello Marc,
My wife and I often describe particularly good-looking wood or sought after and valuable tools as “woodworking porn”. Watching you smooch that Padauk plank just brought a whole new meaning to that phrase!
Seriously, we’ve enjoyed your videos immensely. Keep up the great work.
I knew you had to be a mac guy….it all makes sense now!
Woodworking porn was born here at the Wood Whisperer and it shall live forever.
But the cutscenes shall die. Marc, I really appreciate all the time you put in on the editing, but leave the rocking guitar introductions be – the sections only last fifteen seconds. Us viewers won’t be lost in the speed of things. We’re smart.
Hi Marc, Nicole,
Just found your site and love it!
I am very pleased to see a site like yours help keep the traditional skills alive in this world of machine made. My woodworking skills are applied slightly different product line where quality takes on a whole new meaning. Check out my site.
Jacques
PS: One note from us Canadians, Amazon does not ship to Canada (except for CDs, DVDs, VHS videos, and music cassettes).
Great information Marc. I also use a web site called woodfinder.com. Simply enter what kind of wood you looking for and how many miles you want to travel from your zip code. It will show all the places available to you.
What is a caul?
Another bust. Could not open and view with Quicktime. This is the 3rd of 4th quicktime product created in the Mac that I just can not view on the PC.
Frustrated in NC oh well
Don’t forget to wear your safety glasses Marc.
A caul is anything that helps distribute clamping pressure during a glueup. Usually made of wood. The above article refers to an especially long clamp that would be used in a glueup where you need pressure in the middle of the piece, and you just cant reach it with a clamp. So you can clamp each end of a curved caul, and that will create even pressure all the way across the joint. Think in terms of gluing a shelf into a bookshelf side. Hope that helps.
Marc
Hi Marc great video. Did I see a tv in the shop?
Keep the videos comming and very nice shop.
I so lok forward to seeing your new episodes. You bring great humor, to woodworking. I appreciate all your tips etc. I’m just getting into my own woodworking projects. Thanks so much for all you do for us wanna bes out here. Thanks. Joe.
Marc,
Have you ever done business with Outwater? I was just curious how thier prices compare with Clyde?
Ron
No I haven’t. I will have to check them out. Thanks for the tip Ron!
Marc
Ooops I just noticed there is an Outwater Hardware Co. of which I have not done business with to date. I was actually refering to Outwater Plastics located here in Phoenix:)
Depends on what I’m making, etc. Common hardware – the local big box. Small box hinges, etc. Brusso, usually Lee Valley website. For period reproduction pieces, I use Vandykes usually. For real antique hardware, I have a source up in WA that I’ll look to first. She’s known locally as “The Knob Lady”, since she probably has the most extensive collection of antique furniture pulls and hinges in the known universe. I don’t get up there often – long drive – But when I do I’ll spend hours there. She also has lots of antique hand tools and other things of interest to woodworkers and their wives.
Loretta Johnson
Cobweb Antiques
360-794-4256
21928 Yeager Road
Monroe, WA 98272
resppuuv@verizon.net
Marc,
How do the Blum overlay hinges compare to, say, Brusso hinges and the really thin brass hinges you can get at a big box store?
Hey Ethan. Its hard to really compare Blum to Brusso since they are really two different types of hinges. The Blum hinges are Euro-style cup hinges. They usually require a 35mm hole in the door and the other end of the hinge attaches to either the face frame or the side of the cabinet. They are pretty “industrial” looking. Now Brusso, on the other hand, makes some mighty fine hardware. Their hinges are better reserved for your finest projects (jewelry boxes and the like). And you will pay out the nose for them. But they are heavy duty and beautiful at the same time.
And hinges from the big box stores? Well, I use those for shop furniture. :) The metal is usually much thinner and the hinges are just flimsy feeling. I prefer not to use them in fine furniture. But you probably could find a relatively nice set at a big box.
Hope that helps!
Marc
Hi Marc
Just discovered your site and looovve the videos. I spent last night going through them all. Very entertaining and educational. Keep you the good work. There’s nothing like this here in the UK.
Thanks – Rob
I’ve dabbled in wdwkg for many years. We’re building a new house and I’ll add a separate 2 car carage with a walk out basement. I’m retired and do wdwkg almost every day. I’m planning on upping my tool inventory with the move. I really enjoyed this segment on shop layout.
Very interested in Part 2 of the end grain cutting board. I want to make one for our new kitchen as the entire surface of the chopping block counter top. Can you forward a link to part 2 – can’t seem to find it among the pods.
Thanks
Jeff
Nicole has a great laugh!
And what was the deal with the American Sycamore guy? He shook her hand and she started cracking up…..
Where was this article 8 years ago when I started in woodworking? I too bought $5 hinges before I knew any better.
I’ve always received great products, prices and service from Woodworkers Hardware. I live in the midwest, and my order is delivered to my door usually the next day (they are located in Minnesota).
http://www.wwhardware.com
Dave
Marc – first, I love your PodCasts. You are doing a great services to woodworkers everywhere. DIY Network should give you a show and pay you to do these!
Now, for my question. You mention using hot glue to mount a board to a planner sled to remove rocking. That makes sense – but how do you remove the board from the planner sled once the top is flat? (I have never used hot glue, so that might also be the source of my confusion).
Thanks,
David Genrich
Hey David. Hot glue dries hard, but it doesnt really stick like regular glue. it sticks more like caulking. So if you use it sparingly, you can easily pry it back up off the board with no damage to your work piece. Its a handy trick.
Marc
Hey Marc,
Awesome website and even better podcasts! I can’t believe I hadn’t seen it earlier, I’ve been lurking around woodworking sites for about a year now. Great job, keep it up, I really appreciate your sharing of knowledge!
Thanks,
Joe
nice work, I like this episode. great work talking about alternatives without getting pulled off the main course of the discussion.
…and I really need to practice more (or should I say some?)…
Keep up the good work! Your advice on bringing the wife is spot on and brought a smile to me.
Kyle Stebleton
Woodnet name- KyleD
Just purchased a Steel City Mortiser and have very much enjoyed Part 1 for obvious reasons. Please get at Part 2………I need all the help I can get!!
Thanks…………..Jim
Hey Jim. What to you think of that Steel City unit? I have the Jet and am getting ready to upgrade to the Powermatic. But I am very interested in hearing what people think of Steel City tools. Let me know.
Marc
Another great episode! I think you should have touched on when to use each joint. For example if you use pocket screws where you will never see them than you won’t have to fill them in. In my opinion each type of joint has its use and knowing when to use one instead of the other can save lots of time and headaches later.
Hey, I feel slighted! Just watched the episode. What’s the deal with the repeat T-Shirt?
OK, really. Another great episode. Had another epiphone today. That picture in your banner of you at the tablesaw is in DJM’s shop, isn’t it?
I wore that shirt before??? Crap. There goes my perfect record.
And that is indeed in David’s shop.
I thought I had seen that shirt before! I just havn’t gone back through past episodes to look yet.
I’m so glad it’s not just me noticing these things!
Hey Marc great episode, I especially appreciate seeing you demonstrate YOUR technique. I wonder if you would/will comment on the pros and cons of floating MT vs more traditional. I’m mostly interested in relative strength of one over the other and if there are certain situations when you wouldn’t use the floating one.
my vote also goes to woodworkers hardware they have good prices and they are super nice .Also i really enjoy your site marc it reminds me of the furniture guys
Hey Greg. As far as Im concerned, the only difference between the floating tenon and the integral tenon is how you make them. Strength-wise, a properly milled floating tenon joint should be just as strong as an integral tenon. I would do whatever method is easier for you. But since a floating tenon requires you to put a mortise on each piece, you might run into some issues on long pieces (such as a long table apron). So unless you have a multi-router or something like the Domino, you will need to find a way to balance your router at the end of a long apron piece. Tricky stuff. So in those cases, I would absolutely recommend an integral tenon.
But otherwise, I consider the two joints equivalent.
I’ve had success with a shop-made slot mortiser. Mine is a variation on the one featured in FWW #174. I built my router table with a provision for mounting my plunge router horizontally. That horizontal attachment will bolt up to my slot mortising jig, which in-turn is fastened to the table.
There’s a lengthy discussion thread on it at knots (Fine Woodworking’s forum): http://forums.taunton.com/fw-k.....redirCnt=1 More details about my setup can be found in post #20.
Cripes! The link doesn’t work. This one should take you straight to my post: http://forums.taunton.com/fw-k.....g=32436.20
I have been using Homestead TransTint liquid dye diluted in alcohol along with seal coat for a while now. I have even been able to duplicate my results at a later date with great success. My best results have come from applying the stain first and following that with the seal coat. I also use General Finishes wipe on gel Urethane as a final step. I have found this combination to be as close to foolproof as possible for outstanding results.
I enjoy watching your videos and hope you keep it up.
Greg
Thanks for the help Marc. I’ll let you know what works.
Larry
The same thing happened to me quite a few years ago. I made some candle holders out of some 3″ diameter Birch disks, & set them on our Duncan Phyfe dining room table. After sitting overnight, there were 20, 3″ diameter white spots on the table. I didn’t know what to do, so while hesitating for a short time they went away by themselves.
So possibly in order to rush things along, maybe try a hair dryer on low heat.
A suggestion for Larry (submitted by Doug).
A couple of years ago, my mother damaged her antique dinning table. She forgot to blow-out the candles on her center piece after a dinner party. Forty-five minutes later she returned to the Dinning room to find the candles had burned down low enough to light the center piece ablaze. In a panic, she poured a big pot of water over it, leaving a very nasty mess in the middle of the table. After the center piece and water was cleared away, she was left with a big white circle in the middle of the table. I was able to remove the white stains by using ground pumice stone, same as you would to rub out a finish. I’ve found that if the finished isnt damaged all the way thru its layers the ground pumice stone will take the stain out. Then just wax and buff the surface again. Experience with ground pumice stone helps, i use a small amount of distilled water as a lubricant. Hope this helps.
Marc; Just read an article in FWW #148 about M&T strength. The author likes floating tenons and said “…all the joints we tested were stronger than the most severe load they would ever be subjected to…” but “…if faced with a need for a super-strong joint or one that must not deflect, I will now use a traditional mortice and tenon…” once again your advice is right on the marc ;-) Greg
If a mortiser is nothing more than a drill press with a chisel, why have both a mortiser and a drill press? Do manufacturers not make a duel-purpose machine? And if not, why not?
They do make add-on kits for drill presses that will allow you to cut mortises. But it is my understanding that its a real pain in the butt to tear down and set up. And the results are usually not as good since the drill press table is not intended for the type of work required for drilling mortises(for example, the absence of a built-in fence). But if you are limited on funds and space, there is no reason why you couldnt use this type of system.
Just like many other multi-purpose machines, it will be a jack of all trades but a master of none.
marc
Marc,
Great video as usual! One thing I was curious to know was how would you treat the shoulder cut as it wood relate to a round surface? Maybe a 6″ dia?
Thanks,
Ron
Love your podcasts! Just watched the second part of Tennons and learned a LOT! Thanks man, you really rock. I also checked out the link to the Festool Domino. Like most of the Festool line, Great Tools, I’d love to have them, but talk about sticker shock! My GAWD! I could buy a brand new Jointer for that price. I think for the time being, I’ll stick to old fashioned M&T. I already have the Tennoning jig for my TS.
Again, great podcasts! Keep up the great work.
i was taught that unless there is an off cut, there isnt really a kickback danger registering against the fence…but great video!
So how do you make those tenons on a long board? Huh, Huh, Huh…..? Greg
Marc, awesome video! Looking forward to the Mission style desk. Sounds like a great project. The Festool Domino looks like a very cool tool. Any advice on how to convice those in the kitchen to allow those in the garage to buy this tool? Another very nice option for mortise & tenon joints is the Leigh FMT (Frame Mortise & Tenon) Jig. Might be worth looking at some time – I know how much you like tools. Check it out at http://www.leighjigs.com/fmt.php
Thanks again for the great video and website!
Hey Greg,
For long boards, I would either clamp the piece to my mitre sled and use the dado blade or make a shop-made jig and use my hand held router. Either one of those should get the job done.
If you have high ceilings you can even use the tenoning jig.
Thanks for watching!! Marc
I’m a web suscriber of finewoodworking and this is the first time I see your video. It said episode 4 so I believe the others were already showed. Or are you like start war who started on another episode? joking..
I wll like to see more of these videos alongs with all that basics.I’m also new on woodworking but I’m learning a lot of people like you who do not have problems to share knoledge. thanks and keep it up…
Luis
Marc, mega-woodchip-ditto’s. Question about the hand planes. I got an old Montgomery Wards bench planer from my dad, who, got it from his dad when he passed away about 20 years ago. It is pretty much beat to heck, but would love to restore it. You mentioned that there are articles out there.. any recommendations. Thanks and keep the podcasts comming.
- Damian
I am engennier civil, I love to working wood,
Living in San Salvador, El Salvador, Centroamerica,
We do not have a shop specializing in Carpentry.
I Wanted to get Magazines for Internet to be able to happy.
another great podcast!
Are there several sized “dominoes” like there are several sized biscuits?
To answer Paul yes there are different sized dominos. The available sizes can be seen right here http://www.mcfeelys.com/festoo.....ubcat=25.2 .
Besides the FMT which looks like an awesome tool to M&T joints of all sizes I wanted to mention the WoodRat which is something of a routing system. It handles M&T joints of all sizes AND does dovetails. Just another option for people to investigate if you are considering the Domino.
Just wanted to suggest another method for making the tenons using your router table. Marc and I had a brief discussion about the merits of either and I think we agree that it comes down to what you learned and what you use most often. I find that using a 1/4 or 3/4 straight bit (depending on the size of the tenon) on my router table (using the exact method that Marc uses on his table saw with a stop block) is faster than either using my table saw with the thin blade or tearing down and putting in a dado blade. Once the stop block is set, you can run through as many tenons as you need. Just another alternative to the many ways that Marc has shown.
Thanks again for the great episode Marc!
J~
Great website and podcasts Marc. I like the humor and hominess of the episodes. For those prices (Domino) I think I’ll stick with my plunge router and a few MDF jigs. Actually all of the M/T machines are way overpriced.
my $.02
Marc,
Wow! Love the site and I am working my way through all of the podcasts while my six week old son is napping…
A couple of quick questions regarding this cutting board episode:
1.) I noticed that you cut the board on the table saw with the fence up against the slice you were taking out. I don’t own a table saw yet, but I thought that was a no-no. I also noticed that you had a wood block running the length of your fence. What for?
2.) You answered someone question about recoating all sides of the board, but I was wondering if you had to wait for the top side to cure/dry befor flipping it over to apply the finish to the underside? Or is there a trick that lets you save a few days…
I can’t tell you how great I think your podcasts are! Keep up the great work!
~Peter
What? A fellow spongebob fan who likes woodworking and studied as a biologists, too scary. (note listed in order of importance :D).
FWIW, for a really long board, I would resort to the old tried and true mortise chisel and mallet >:-D.
Hey Peter. Well first off, congrats on the mini-woodworker! Getting any sleep lately? :)
1- I agree that that type of cut is not ideal. But in cases where you need a consistent sized cut, it just makes more sense to do it that way. And with some experience and the right push sticks, that cut is relatively safe. I would not recommend doing that as your first cut on a tablesaw, but once you are comfortable with the machine, you should be in good shape to try it. Just be sure to use a good push stick.
2- You would need to let the board dry before coating the other side. That is, unless you come up with a system that lets the board breathe while it dries. One way to do this is to take a piece of scrap ply and put a few nails into it. Then you can coat the whole board and lay it with the bottom resting on the nail heads. The nail heads might put a slight blemish in the finished surface, but its nothing that a light sanding wont take care of. And if you use a little finish nail. you shouldnt see anything at all.
Hope that helps Peter. Good luck with your woodworking!!
Thank you Marc for a great website, It’s very informative. I myself am in the constuction trade learning what is to know and I use your site as a tool to increase my Knowledge in fine wood working.As you probably know working for contracters they are allways looking for the quickest and not so safest way to GET UR DONE. I was wondering what your expierance is with water based poly’s. ie with brush hash marks.
Thank you for your time, I now have to dig myself out of this snow storm that we are getting blistered with.
Thomas
Marc,
What is the difference between Spar Urethane and Polyurethane?
Thanks,
Ron
Hey Thomas. I don’t usually use water based poly, but when I do I usually apply it using a HVLP spray system. It sprays alot like lacquer and gives decent results. Its a water-white finish so it suitable for light-colored woods that you dont want to yellow over time, like maple and birch. If you do have to brush it on, I recommend using a synthetic applicator taking care not to produce bubbles. When you stir the product, use a stirring stick and stir in each direction about 100 time. Dont shake the can. And since it flashes so quickly, you might want to dilute with a bit of water. This will give you a bit more working time between application strokes.
And Ron, Spar Urethane is intended for outdoor use and contains a higher amount of solids. It tends to be a softer, more flexible finish. This is primarily because of the temperature changes and harsh conditions outdoor pieces will experience. The finish needs to be flexible in order to survive. Spar urethane may also contain UV inhibitors which help to preserve the color of the wood and avoid graying.
Hope that answers your questions guys!!
marc
Great! Just what I was looking for thanks!
Marc,
That was a good idea of explaining how a project begins from the point of a picture – to sketchup – and the thinking that we go through in building a custom piece of furniture. As someone who got into woodworking only 3 years ago and who learned mostly by watching NYW and reading forums and later books, the design process is the least covered subject. When watching Norm build anything, he begins from the point where he starts cutting wood and rarely covers any explanation why he chose his joinery. You keep giving this kind of “understanding-level” explanation to woodworking and you’re going to provide a valuable service. Regards
Thanks a ton Marc for the lead on to SketchUp, I’ve been looking for quite a while for a cheap 3D modeling tool, and free counts in my book :D
thanks for the advice…. after over 30 hours of trying to figure out plans and wood needs for projects I am working on at the moment.. hope sketchup helps
love your site..
Marc,
I have to say Wow, my hats off to you and your wife.For doing such a wonderful job.
This past summer I lost my lower left leg.While I was off an setting around, I got interested in woodworking.I started by watching New Yankee Workshop and then I started to read books an magazines. Looking at websites, thats how I stumbbled across yours. Man,I am impressed.
How a person can take a piece of wood an create a work of art.I myself would love to learn how to become a craftsman.But i know it takes time an tools.As far as skill I believe I have the abillaity.But the question is can you teach an old 50 year old man .Where do I start in what direction. These are questions I ask myself.
I dont have friends that have this skill.As far as classes, I have looked but can not find any near Cincinnati,Ohio.
Marc:
By vocation I am a consultant in Regulatory Toxicology and by avocation a serious woodworker. Your comments about the toxicity of various finishes were right on the money and I wont get into an elaborate discussion here except to say “the dose makes the poison” and when using non-approved (FDA) finishes that holds true. I would have no issue personally using food contact items that have been finished with any type of polymerizing (or cured) finish. However, any woodworker who either gifts, donates or sells these products should consider the potential legal ramifications of using a non-approved finish. For this reason I would strongly encourage that these products be finished with FDA complient products such as mineral oil, Salad Bowl Finish or other natural oils.
Once again a great show Marc. I am a recent Sketchup convert and while I have been using it mainly for house designing it was good to see it in this application.
Greg
Marc,
You’re not thinking of making me totally jealous by using some Festool Domino-looking thing for your loose tenon joinery, are you?
Going through the project from concept to completed table is a great idea. Looking forward to seeing the rest of it!
I’ll also give SketchUp a looksee. I’ve been meaning to check into a 3-D modeling tool for some time, and if this isn’t motivation enough, I don’t know what is.
Excellent videos, thanks.
I just downloaded it and gave it a test drive, pretty simple and easy to use and the docs are well done.
BTW to copy a component use the “Move” tool. Select the Move tool and hit your Ctrl key (or the Mac equivalent for Marc ;D) and you will notice a small + sign appear next to your Move mouse pointer. This means you are in copy mode.
Also you can type in dimensions to create a copy and automatically move it X inches over for automatic spacing.
To do this do the following:
1. Select the Move tool
2. Hit Ctrl to enter copy mode.
3. Select the component and drag it in the direction you want to place it (keep the mouse button down).
4. Type in the number of inches to move it and hit enter.
It will automatically create a copy and move it that number of inches in the direction you desire.
Really handy for creating multiple evenly spaced components.
I’ve been woodworking for a number of years and think that your episode provides the best single overview that I’ve seen–it does a great conceptual job without getting bogged in detail or tools. I suggest that once your viewers have mastered the basics they might want to consider purchasing a good hand plane . Hand planes are (1) the best way to quickly flatten larger surfaces (think tops of table and cabinets; (2)a better way to remove wind from boards; (3) the only practical way to surface highly figured woods.
Another way to inspect a surface before applying a finish is to wipe it with a rag soaked in Mineral Spirits. It simulates an oil finish but evaporates without a trace in just a few minutes and doesn’t raise the grain. I’m not very patient at the sanding and planing stage so I do this a few times to check my progress.
Thanks for the sketchup primer. (and for fixing whatever it was that seemed to turn the comment window into a clickable link to the above project photo – bizzarre).
Going to enjoy the start to finish on this project. Glad your trying to make a show of it too! Your pain is our gain! Thanks for thinking of us!… Oh, and no need to apologise, looks good (apart from, what was that, a plane flying overhead ;) consider the slack, cut.
Good luck!, we’ll be watching (and eagerly awaiting the next installments)
First time to your site. I am looking forward to reading and watching what you have to offer
This was a great film. I intend to use it in my woods classes. I found it (Thanks Fine Woodworking) at just the right time as This is what I am discussing in class. Keep up the good work.
Marc,
Loved this concept, can’t wait to see the rest of the videos! Do you plan on discussing the business end of the deal at all, talking about what the cost of the project was vs. what your commission was for the project? I would be very interested in something like that.
EXCELLENT!!!!!!!!!!!
Linked from Fine Woodworking e-letter to catch the episode.
Again Marc….nicely done!!!
Neil
thanks for keeping it real by not editing out the epoxy part!
Another great episode, I look forward to watching the table come together. Any idea how many episodes you are planning for this project?
Thanks for the kind words guys. Im glad you are enjoying the series.
I would say at least two more episodes. I dont really want it to go longer than 4 total. So we might have a few longer than usual episodes.
Marc
Yup I agree use Mineral Spirits not water!
Thank you, I like it very much. Marc very sympatic and jhis explanations are very clear… et clever!
I dont exactly like the rap with explanation, but I am an old man, so, stay do what you think is good and funny!
(My english is not good, I am French and I dont have enough opportunety to practice…. )
Normand
Marc,I enjoy your video`s. I`m such a wood working junkie an appreciate what your doing.Randy
I laughed out loud at that whole glue up sequence… loved it! Keep up the great work, can’t wait for episode 3.
Great stuff! I hope you are able to continue. Information such as you deliver is essential and often forgotten with all the background noise of information flying around. As in all education, the basics are essential – plus you make the learning enjoyable.
My wife came into the room to make sure i was really watching a woodworking show when she heard the glue up part. Almost got me in trouble but well worth it.
A trick I use to avoid snipe is to slightly lift the back end of the wood as it starts to feed into the planer. Ususally after about 6″ is in the planer you can let go. That seems to stop snipe for me.
Great episode. I remember my first trip to a discount hardwood warehouse. I brought my 10 year old son, which of course made it impossible for me to ask for help, since as a dad and a self-proclaimed woodworker I am supposed to know everything. I couldn’t help but feel like the teenage kid at the counter was laughing at me when he rung me up after I wandered around for about and hour and half. Anyway, great stuff, and hope to see more!
great podcast, laughed my b-lls off. very entertaining
To help the shop vac filter, ask your wife to give up a pair of panty hose. Cut off one leg, sretch it over the filter and tie a knot in the toe to make it fit the shape of the filter. I was supprised at the amount of fine dust it stopped before it could enter the filter.
Hi Marc,
Excellent tutorial again.
I have a question though. At the very end, you joint the board edge to 90 degrees, then run the board through the table saw for the other edge. Why not just run both through the saw, if the saw blade is set to 90 degrees, or joint both edges on the jointer?
Also, what epoxy do you use?
Johan
Hey Johan. Although a table saw will cut a nice 90 degree edge, it will only cut the edge into a nice straight line if the edge against the fence is nice and straight. So we must take a trip to the jointer first. Now once you have a straight edge, you might be tempted to simply run your second rough edge over the jointer as well. This would indeed produce a straight 90 degree edge. But what it doesn’t do is produce an edge that is perfectly parallel to the first. You can and most likely will produce a wedge-shaped board that is wider on one end than it is on the other. So by going to the table saw and trimming our second edge, we are ensured a perfectly parallel edge. Now you could stop right there and go directly to the glueup, but I prefer to run the tablesawn edge over the jointer one time to ensure a pefectly accurate joint.
This may seem a bit picky, but when you glue up your boards and you cant even see the glue line, you will be thankful for the extra effort you put into the preparation.
Hope that explains everything.
Marc
Thanks for the explanation, Marc. I don’t know why I didn’t realize it. It’s the same as jointing then planing for thickness, instead of just jointing down to size. (I don’t have a planer, so after watching your milling podcast, I built a sled for my router which works great.
You have an excellent site, thanks for sharing your knowledge.
I took a seminar with Paul Schurch. He is an unbeliveable veneer artist. The seminar made marquetry and parquetry less scary (I wish he could do something with my mother in-law). Check out http://www.pro-glue.com/. And when you have a moment, check out http://www.schurchwoodwork.com/. If you see his seminar at a woodworking show, go, listen and take notes.
Could you explain a little bit more about plastic resin glue? How does it apply compared to contact? Is it reactive to heat? Will it effect the finish if you are messy like me with glue and get it on the face of the veneer? How well does it work with plastics, or vynl, or any product with a phenolic backing?
Hi Marc
I was curious if the window screen you mention in this technique will leave a pattern that will need to be sanded out? I haven’t tried it, but I wonder if I need to make sure I include the extra step if I decide to use this process.
Keep up the great work!
BJ
Tim,
The plastic resin glue is my preferred glue for veneering applications. The bond is very rigid. Something like contact cement is a little more flexible and I have found that in some cases the veneer lifts over time. Perhaps from improper technique, but I would rather avoid the stuff just to be safe. The only time I use contact cement is if I am applying veneer to a surface that cant be clamped properly or if I am applying a laminate.
In general, the plastic resin glues dry better at higher temperatures. I probably wouldnt use it if the temp was below 65-70 degrees. I really only use the stuff for wood to wood applications so you should consult the individual application instructions from the manufacturer to see what materials it will and wont bind to.
It will inhibit staining, so you should try to avoid getting any on the face of your veneer.
And as to bob’s question. The screen might leave some marks that would need to be sanded out. But I usually give my veneered panels a nice sanding before applying finish anyway, so whatever marks were there are usually not a problem.
Thanks guys!!
marc
Love your site! I started watching the video pod casts two days ago and just got caught up. Now I have to wait for the next one :-( You have a great sense of humor. “Lets get ready tooooooooo….”
It seems to me that the domino by Festool is a mobile multi-router :-)
Keep them rolling!
Marc,
I also tried a burl veneer on my first veneer project and had good luck with Super Soft Veneer Softener that I purchased from Joe Woodworker.com. I used an iron on medium heat instead of Marc’s technique to speed things up and had good results. I used a router with a flush trim bit and MDF cauls to edge joint the veneer but the joint line showed a bit after finishing. Any tips on how to get a better result next time?
Thanks for the info I will have to check it out! I work in a custom cabinet shop that only uses contact cement, so it is all I know. There has been times when i have done side projects out side of work where I wish I had a better alternative to contact cement but I ended up using it anyways because that is what I was familiar with. With all the peculiarities of contact cement I manage to do ok with it, but I have been working with it for years so I know all its ticks!
Hey Michael. You can also use your jointer to get a nice straight edge on the veneer. But I dont think the quality of the edge is where your problems lies. I have a specific technique for joining veneer that I should probably do a video on. Its much easier to show than it is to explain. I actually use blue tape stretched across the joint to create a clamping effect. I stitch the tape across the joint ever few inches. Then I put one long strip along the joint. I then flip the veneer over and make an A-frame exposing the edges of the veneer. Then I actually put a little bit of yellow glue across the joint and spread it carefully with my finger.
Next I put the veneer flat on the table again and put a nice strip of tape along the entire joint. I then either use a piece of wood or my finger nail to burnish the joint and make sure the veneers are not overlapping one another. Let sit for 3-4 hours and you will have two veneer sheets that act as one. This is a good way to ensure the joint never splits. And you should have a perfect seam.
Hope the quick explanation helps.
marc
Marc,
I’ve seen it in almost all of your videos, so I’ve got to ask. What type of small, 6″ adjustable square are you using? I’ve never considered using one that size, but after seeing in in action, well, I don’t know what I’ve been thinking. Is it available in your store? Looking forward to the next installment,
Andrew
If you want to learn more about Sketchup as it applies to woodworking, here are some links:
The Design Forum at Sawmill Creek is a great resource for Sketchup questions regarding to woodworking:
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/forumdisplay.php?f=5
Also check out the Sketchup Demo project written by David Richards. It is a great tutorial on using Sketchup to create an armoire.
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=43655
For Sketchup Tutorials, check out:
http://www.caddtutorialsonline.....rials.html
For some Sketchup podcasts, try:
http://www.go-2-school.com/podcasts
Enjoy,
David Genrich
Hey Andrew. The one I use is a little 4″ Double Square sold by Lee Valley. It is by far my most frequently used measuring and marking device. Here is the link:
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/.....at=1,42936
Have fun.
Marc
Hi Marc,
I was curious why you didn’t use the domino to join the boards for the table top versus the biscuit joiner? I look forward to your weekly videos. Thanks.
~mark
Hey mark. I certainly could have used the Domino to align my boards. To be honest, the Domino will most likely replace my biscuit joiner in almost all tasks. But the truth is I have a drawer that is full of biscuits. My family knows I always need biscuits so guess what I find in my Christmas stocking every year? Yep. More biscuits. So it was really a practicality issue.
Marc
Marc,
I was curious how much time you think you are saving, per joint, with the Domino VS traditional methods?
Thanks,
Ron
So? Wha’d ya buy?
Hey Ron. Its going to be tough to give an accurate answer. You save a bunch of time in setup. Obviously traditional joints require a good amount of setup time. With the Domino you are up and running in minutes.
But remember, once you get set up for the traditional joinery, you can blast through all your parts. But if you have multiple sized parts with different sized tenons, the setup process needs to be repeated. So how much time you save is really dependant on the project. Minimally, it will save you your standard setup time and fine tuning time for a standard mortise and a standard tenon. For some people, thats 20 minutes. For others, thats a few hours.
A good way to look at it is to think of the Domino as something you are probably already familiar with: a biscuit joiner. So how much time would you save if you could use a biscuit joint instead of a mortise and tenon? That should give you a good idea.
Marc
Well, this year I was so busy with the podcast that I almost forgot to shop!! Can you believe it??? I actually just picked up a few router bits that I needed and bunch of Mirka ROS sandpaper. A good score nonetheless.
marc
Hey Mark,
Great pod cast…..its always a joy watch. Now we all want you to play like your Oprah and gives all a Festool Domino for watching..:)
Terry
Maybe one day in the future I too will be able to buy my fans! Dare to dream. :)
Thank you for such a quick response! Do you get credit if we purchase from the “new or used available” books (books that aren’t actually shipped by Amazon)?
hi Manju. I should get credit for anything that goes through The Wood Whisperer front door. Either use my Amazon search feature or click on the link that says “Go to Amazon.com”.
Thanks for supporting the show!
Marc
I say folks
The good ole hide glue is worth a mention. Damp and press the veneer as described, but then work while it is still damp. If the burls seems to be breaking up, or likely to, then apply veneer tape to the top surface, hot hide glue to the work, and apply and press, or use a veneer hammer for flat surfaces.
Hide glue is of course, water soluble, so if you use a water based stain there is a hope of being able to match in to its surroundings after you’ve applied the veneer.
Nice web site!
you guys are awesome :p
That video is awesome. I laugh harder each time I watch it.
I’ve been checking your site for a couple weeks and love the information you provide. Thanks.
love your site..
thanks to powermatic for the contest..
nancy
Dude, you are killing me!!
it’s late, my kids are in bed sleeping and I sit in front of my computer laughing hysterically hoping to not wake anyone…
now I’m off to watch some early episodes!
Hmmm. You’re in the southwest, right? There can’t be any meatballs and sauce down there so she didn’t throw any of that at your t-shirt. Hmmm. What can it be?
HE HE This old fart needs a coat to brake the wind…
Ps Mark your doing a great job.
Hi Marc, I have just watched your 3 videos on the Arts & Crafts table with great pleasure. You have all the attributes of a great teacher: clear speech, a sound grasp of your subject and enthusiasm. I hope that you and the video series prosper. I’ll be back to watch more. Nigel (in the UK).
Being in the market just recently myslef for a combo blade I actually decided on the Freud Premier Fusion blade and so far it’s been great!! Although I would recommend the Forest Blades as well having purchased the Dado King set up and again so far it’s been an awesome set up. Spend an extra couple of bucks and you won’t regret it!
Hi Marc. Normally I’d agree with you but I personally believe there is no need to spend $100 on a good table saw blade. My reasoning behind this is that I have the Dewalt DW7657 in my table saw and it is just as sharp now as the day I bought it a year ago. It very closely resembles the forrest blade in the way it was made (40 tooth ATB, aggressive negative hook, thick C4 carbide, etc.)and the performance rivals that of a WWII as well. The best part is that right now at amazon it’s only $31.99 after the discount. With the performance the blade has given me the year I’ve had it I see no need to spend $100 on a forrest blade.
Hi Marc,
I just wanted to point out a safety hazard I noticed on this video. While you were working on the router, a lace or string from you shirt was dangling quite close to the router bit as it was spinning.
Great site! I am learning a lot and it’s very entertaining.
Stephane
Bathurst, NB, Canada
I love the table, but is it strong enough without a lower stretcher between the legs?
Marc,
I am really enjoying your videos! Each time I learn new things. They have become a very important part of my woodworking education.
I notice from this issue and your shop tour that you have a Jet 14″ band saw. I just purchased mine at our local Woodcraft. I bought the 6″ riser and would like your opinions on an aftermarket blade. I will probably just purchase one or two, so what do you recommend for general purpose use? If I do any resawing, what do you recommend for that?
Thanks again for a great resource!
Warren
Hey Dan. I do think the table would be strong enough without the bottom stretchers. It would be more like a dining room table that way. I see no major problems building it that way.
Warren:
For most of my work, I use Timberwolf blades:
http://astore.amazon.com/thewo.....0&y=0
Another brand that gets really great reviews is Lennox. http://www.lenoxsaw.com/
Either one will give you a premium cut whether for general use or veneer slicing.
Marc
Hi Marc –
I really liked the part when after edge gluing and clamping the table top you just turned it on edge and used a scraper to remove the squeeze out.
I tried that last weekend on the stock I glued up for the blanket chest I am making. It works great.
The only thing I did not like was cleaning the glue off of my scraper. I think the next time I will use one of those phony credit cards I seem to get in the mail to scrape off the squeeze out.
when pre-finishing a peice, do you just apply the first coat or totally finish the piece, then glue up?
I totally finish the piece. Sometimes after the glueup you might need to do a little touch up here and there but thats no big deal. This type of strategy doesnt work for every piece, but it can certainly save you alot of headaches when the final piece has lots of hard to reach places.
marc
Thanks for the recommendation on Timberwolf blades. Can you make specific recommendations on which one (or two)? There are a bazillion choices there ;)
Warren
i should have pre-finished this night table i made…glue squeeze out is no one’s friend.
That is a lot of blades on that page. :)
If you are looking to slice veneers, go for the 1/2″ 6 TPI. Some would recommend doing for 3/4″, but I prefer the 1/2″ since its more versatile. For general resawing, you can go with less TPI, something like 3 would be good. But I usually get 6 TPI and keep that in the saw. Changing blades is no fun. Kinda like cleaning squeezout. :)
I saw a 7 1/4 inch WWII blade. I’ve tried to panel cut with a zero-clearance jig but can’t find a good blade to fit on my Porter Cable circular saw. The best I’ve found is a Freud(sp?) but I still have some tear-out unless I apply blue tape and score cut first before I through cut. So I’m wondering if the Woodworker II 7 1/4″ version of this blade would allow me to panel cut without all the fuss. My local Woodcraft has Festool blades but I don’t think they fit regular Circular Saws. Friends have said a regular circular saw can never do this job.
Hey Richard. I use a Freud blade on my Porter Cable circular saw and it does pretty well for me. But it is by no means a perfect cut. So there has to be something better that isnt as expensive as the Festool saw right? Well, if the performance of Forrest’s circular saw blade is anything like that of its bigger brothers, I would have to say it would be worth the investment. Unfortunately, I cant speak from experience since I never used one of the little guys. But upgrading to a premium blade would certainly be cheaper than upgrading to a whole new system like Festool.
I am a woodworker myself but I need your opinoin how can we bend wood for an item like the console table which has a curve apron rail.
Hey Almerino. I will email some ideas.
turning lathes work great just ask my wife shes proud of her short hair cut – OW!!
If your going to spend the money for the good blades find a good person to sharpen them and they usually don’t come cheap either. There are lots of hacks out there that will mess up your good blades for a really cheap price!
Hey Marc,
I as well use WWII as well as a couple of freud blades. I do think that the forrest blades are slightly superior on overall multi-use platform but I would give a huge thumbs up to freud as well..
The question I have is the value of thin kerf vs standard blades. I recently purchased a thin kerf WWII on Amazon for a great price of $79.00. I do not see any difference in stiffness or the accuracy of my cuts between the two. I have asked around but I have never heard a good explanation of why one is better than the other and I would like to get your take on this….
Thanks,
John
Hey John. There are some that believe that a thin kerf blade wobbles a little bit more than a full kerf blade. This extra vibration results in a slightly less smooth cut. Would you need a microscope and a set of dial calipers to detect the difference? Probably. But just in case, there are blade stiffeners available that slide on the arbor after the blade and help to “steady” the blade.
But in reality, the most compelling reason to use a thin kerf blade is if you are running a lower horsepower saw. A 1HP saw, for instance, will be happier pushing a thin kerf blade. You should see a little performance increase. By the time you hit the 2HP range, the full kerf is perfectly fine. So I dont really see one being better than the other. I just see them serving two different purposes. Once you decide what you like, then you should stick with it since your splitter (if you have one installed), will only work with one or the other.
Does anyone have experience using a dye stain rather than a pigment stain on maple?
NF emailed me this advice:
I agree with the sage advice that you gave Darin. Sounds like maybe he used too heavy a cut of shellac in his sanding sealer. I use a much-thinned cut, about 1/2 lb or less, and use scraps to determine if the particular boards need an additional coat of sealer (usually
they do not). I try to use the least amount of shellac that will give me the “anti-splotch” result when I apply stain. Depending on what stain I am using, I may need to use a second or even a third application of stain to get the final look. That is, it may take a “primer” coat of stain to serve as a base for the final”color” coat. Also, the stain needs to be thoroughly mixed before application, in order to get the colorants uniformly distributed in the stain. Sometimes, I ‘ve been in a hurry and did not mix the stain and later found that some of the colorant had settled to the bottom of the container, giving me a much different result than I expected. The stain has to be uniformly mixed.
If one has more scraps and time to experiment, it may be that some dye could be added to the thinned shellac that would enrich the final look when the stain is applied. In Darin’s case, from the “orange” tone he describes, maybe a slight amount of blue-green, green, or yellow-green tint in the shellac sanding sealer would produce the brown color he wants in the finished (pun intended) product. His test boards would determine which combination is best for his case. As a final note, commercial stains are often shown with photos of how the stain looks on pine and other woods. Each wood and each tree has its own behavior, so Darin might need to use a blend of two stains to achieve the final “custom” color he wants. Don’t be afraid to experiment. Have fun with woodworking.
Wood Whisperer,
I really enjoyed the episode, all 4 parts. Designing, milling, finishing, construction. It is all there. Excellent.
I did notice something of interest – you had a blanket under the piece as you did the glue up / assembly process. I figure this is to protect both the piece and the workbench surface. What a great idea! I had never seen this before, but it makes complete sense and makes me say “Ah, I should have done that years ago.” And I liked the south western theme of the blanket – great sense of place in your shop.
Winona, MN
Been meaning to ask, in the intro segment to the show, you have a small bench (or possibly footstoof)… Have you posted that elsewhere, or is there any info you’d like to share on its construction? (here or over at Lumberjocks?) It’s a nice looking piece (one I’d like to try, and with all the veneered pieces leading up to it, it’s one I feel comfortable trying!
Thanks!
Excellent podcast as always. Actually, it’s a timely piece, since I just made a rough clamp rack (a series of racks, actually) and noticed that some of my nice new Jet clamps have dried glue on them! I thought that the polished bars would be resistant to the glue, but apparently that’s not so. But at least now I have a couple of solutions to try…
I was curious, however, why you didn’t include Aluminum bar clamps? They can be found for very little $$ in some cases, and are lighter than the pipe clamps, which makes them easier to work with. The only downside is that they do flex more than the pipe clamps, so they won’t provide as much pressure. But so far, they’ve done well for me.
Also, it seems Bessey is making their clamps for other companies. Of course Woodcraft has them now, but also Harbor Freight carries a Bessey clone (who knows if it’s actually made by Bessey- but they are exact to the Woodcraft clamps except for the color). The nice thing about those clamps is that the handle is a fluted aluminum handle, which is easy to grip. Also, with the infamous Harbor Freight sales and discount coupons, they may be available for a very reasonable cost.
Unfortunately episode 12 freezes after a few seconds and reverts to the beginning.
Hey Ray. Are you watching the streaming version on the site or one of the quicktime movies above the image? If you are watching the streaming version. It always helps to hit pause after it starts playing and give it a few extra seconds to buffer up. Im not positive that thats the reason for your problem, but it could be. And unfortunately, I cant seem to reproduce your problem.
Hey Travis. I left out several clamps simply because I don’t own them. I really wanted to focus on the clamps that I use on a daily basis. But of course, there is nothing wrong with a nice set of aluminum bar clamps.
Hey Scott. Thats a little child’s sitting bench (or foot stool) that I made as a prototype. The construction is primarily mortise and tenon but I dont really have much info on the details. It was a quick one-off type thing. I can email you as much detail as I remember, but I dont really have any pics or anything showing the process.
Marc
Thanks for the tip on keeping your clamps clean. I guess that means it’s time to clean them up now :).
Great Job Marc!! I love your videos, and just wanted to let you know! Keep up the good work!
Hi Mark,
Love your website. How deep are the 12″ deep throat clamps that you like and mention in this podcast?
I’d also like to make a plug for my favorite clamps: Wetzler quick clamps. They are F-style clamps that are built like tanks. I have a bunch of the 4″ deep clamps, and love the way that they work. The feel of these clamps is second to none, even the best parallel clamps, and they are square enough that I think they do just as well as parallel clamps in glue ups.
I think your pal David Marks likes these clamps as well.
Great podcast as usual. The tip about waxing your clamps is a good one but you don’t want to wax the bar of the old-style Quick Grips. The clamp head will want to slip when you want it to grip. I know this from past experience :(
Hey Wilbur. That big clamps have a 6″ throat.
Wetzler does indeed make great clamps. Well built and sturdy. I remember using them in David’s shop and they never failed us. I did find them comparable in quality to Bessey’s heavy duty line of clamps.
Marc
Great show as usual Marc. I am wondering if you might post a couple of shots of your hanging rack, as that is next on my list of adjustments to the shop and I am looking for inspiration.
Hey Greg. I did take some close-up shots of the rack in the video. Let me know if you need more detail than that. Good luck!
marc
Marc,
I found a huge piece of purpleheart at woodcraft in Loveland CO. for less per board foot than oak…. in other words my cheap ass bought it. I decided to make one of your cutting boards since I have a huge stockpile of maple at the house….
So you perform a sneaky little trick in your podcast :) You changed from one glue up pattern to another after you make your 1 1/4 cross cuts, no big deal I just could not figure out what was differetn beteween mine and yours. I will make the next one with the 3/4 cuts inside…
Thanks for the project… I have made several cutting boards in the past but I really like the contrast between the purpleheart and the maple….
Keep up the good work and I hope to see you on TV soon…
John
When you say they can be bought on-sale for a ‘good’ price, what is a good price for the jet parallel jaw clamps? I see the current price on Amazon, but what can I expect to save through patience?
Hey Rob. I would estimate a “good” price to be a 20-25% savings.
Did something similar with maple, but used a diluted brown transtint dye in water prior to the shellac. Came out brown instead of orange.
Thanks… I am a new wood worker/// just getting my woodshop together… and clamps use and types has always been a huge question.. gonna mozey over to your store…
Marc,
Will the same treatment regimen work for cast iron planes? I wrapped one of mine in my work gloves for the trip from California to Germany when I moved here (I’m in the military) and I now have a Lie Nielson block plane with some “character.” Needless to say, I would like to get it back to its original glory and keep it that way.
Hey Scott. That treatment would work great on a plane. When removing the rust though, i would probably progress through to the highest grit paper I could find (probably 2000), since looks count for something on a LN plane.
I actually treat all of my hand tools with T-9 to prevent rust. And if you are traveling, put on a heavy coat and just put it away. Dont wipe off the excess. You will be very pleased with the results.
I find this website to be very help in today’s world
http://www.acronymfinder.com
I put in s2s and bam :-)
Norm would be officiating as T’Pau.
Jeff just alerted me to a decent sale over at Amazon.com (aka The WOod Whisperer Store). Bessey K-Bodies are reduced quite a bit.
These Amazon sales are unpredictable so if you are looking to stock up, get your butt over there and do it before they change the price again.
Thanks, Marc! I actually left all of my stationary power tools in storage in Monterey, CA. I smeared a heavy coat of cosmoline on all of the bare metal surfaces, and I’m hoping for the best when I see them again after 3 years in a non-climate-controlled warehouse in the salt air.
Given the general advice to avoid using WD-40 near wood due to finishing problems, I am puzzled about why you use it at all here. Why not just dry sand, or if you insist on making mud, use a different lubricant?
Mark, I’m new to woodworking as I have inherited a fine woodworking workshop from my father-in-law. He was not much for teaching and so I’m having to learn how to use the equipment on my own with the manuals. So far so good. I have created a few pieces and your videos have been very helpful as well as entertaining. My father-in-law, probably, would not have appreciated your humor but my wife and I lol. Keep up the podcasting. That in and of itself is an art you and your wife, have been doing well with too. I notice you are a Macintosh aficionado. Good man! I purchased a pair of the Bessy® K clamps I saw you using with the cutting board series. Mark, thank you for sharing your woodworking acumen with guys like me out here.
The main reason not to dry sand is the performance of the sandpaper. The rust will quickly clog the paper without lubricant. And you can use just about anything other than water as a lubricant. Mineral spirits comes to mind. I use WD-40 because it doesnt evaporate and its pretty cheap compared to the higher quality lubricants.
WD40 is not an ideal product to clean the cast iron. The liquid portion of the product never fully evaporates and thus traps corrosive mineral deposits between the porous cast iron surface and a thin coating of the WD40 liquid. The surface should be cleaned with mineral spirits and 600 grit wet/dry paper. Next, wipe the mineral spirits from the surface. Clean the surface with acetone. The acetone dries almost on contact and does not allow any moisture to remain on the surface. Since the cast iron is porous it is important to heat the surface so that the wax is able to flow into the minute pores of the metal. Heat a 12 x 12″ section with a propane torch or a heat lamp until it gets hot enough to liquefy the wax on contact. Be sure not to stand directly over the wax to avoid breathing in the vaporized material. Repeat this procedure until the entire surface has received a coating of wax. Allow the surface to cool for 20 minutes and then buff off any hazy residue. This should keep away rust for a reasonable amount of time but more frequent waxing may be required depending on your own pattern of usage. Typically, the best method of fending off rust on a cast iron deck is to use it every day as the constant burnishing of materials moving across the surface creates a natural polishing action. It still needs to be waxed but usually only once a month during the most humid of summer months.
I live in Toronto, Canada – in a condo. My tool cabinet lives on my balcony 12 months a year. While most Americans think that we ski up here in July, and feed our polar bears in August, the reality here is that our weather goes through the same cycles as Buffalo or Boston. Ok, maybe a little more extreme, but close. I do woodworking almost 12 months a year on that balcony, usually on the tool cabinet (luckily, I share a full shop at a friend’s home). To protect the tools year round I spray them all down with WD-40 four times a year. It is a bit of a pain in the butt to have to wipe down the tools with a rag soaked in Varsol every time I want to use it, and respray it before putting it away, but not one of my tools have a spot of rust on them. I think (he says cockily) that it is all in the maintenance. Any good tool worth having is a piece of art, both in design, and in execution. It should be treated accordingly, even if it is locked up in a cabinet, outside, in -10 degrees weather.
I was able to use a medium brown dye to slightly color the blond toned maple and then applied a 1lb cut of shellac and then my gel stain and the results were what I wanted. I wiped on the dye and I can see why you recommended spraying this it can be a little tricky.
Darin
In researching food-safe finishes, I have found that most “boiled” linseed oil is in fact not boiled at all; it instead consists of “a combination of raw linseed oil, petroleum-based solvent and metallic dryers” (see Wikipedia, Linseed Oil), which makes the product toxic. When using this product, care should definitely be taken to minimize skin contact with the oil. I imagine that the metallic dryers remain in the wood, and unlike other finishes which are non-toxic when dry, this finish remains at least somewhat toxic.
I know Tried & True makes FDA food-safe compliant finishes, including true boiled linseed oil (called Danish Oil).
Otherwise, I have used food-grade “flaxseed oil,” which is just raw linseed oil, and is available at supermarkets or health-food stores. This takes considerably longer to cure fully (weeks to months) than boiled linseed oil, but is completely non-toxic and food safe. I know it can be heated to polymerize it and reduce curing time, but I’m not sure of the exact process.
See:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Linseed_oil
http://www.triedandtruewoodfinish.com/
Good linseed oil facts. Lets just hope she is having breakfast IN bed, and not breakfast ON bed. :)
Corrosion X also works very well and is a lubricant. It was developed for Military/Industrial applications, is used widely in the boating world, and is just now coming to the attention of the woodworking world. I am not related to the company, just an avid boater and woodworker. For more information see this link: http://www.corrosionx.com/hd.html
Marc,
I’ve really enjoyed your website. Keep up the good work.
Based on your recommend I decided to give the WWII saw blade a shot. The ‘problem’ is I ordered the blade through your website from amazon and amazon has the Forrest part numbers switched for the thick (1/8) and thin (3/32) kerf blades. I ordered a thick kerf but received a thin kerf. Heads up to anyone ordering from Amazon, check the last part of the item model number 125 vs 100.
I don’t want to use a stabilizer, that’s why I ordered the thick blade. But now I have in my hands the thin blade and don’t really want to hassle with returning it. I have a 3 hp saw so power shouldn’t be a problem. I read the previous response, that a stabilizer isn’t necessarily needed. Is there any downside to picking the thick kerf blade?
Next question to all you WWII users out there. When I received my blade the logo and lettering appears worn, similar to what a blade looks like after it’s been used a bit. Is that expected? I expected a new blade to have crisp sharp lettering, particularly a $100 blade, not this one. Anyone else experience this? I’m trying to decide whether I got a bad one or not. thanks
Wanananana – Nanananana – Nanananana – Nanananana
When will the USA catch up with the rest of the World and go METRIC !!
I can’t understand you when you speak in slow motion like that. :)
Marc, Could you please elaborate more on the dry lubricant you used on your new “drool” bandsaw you have aquired.
Wonderful tips Mark. I tune band saws for a living and you have some very good advice.
So did Powermatic hook you with with the sweet saw? *Jealous*
Just got a craftsman 14″ a while back. My fist BS, so some of the things you may consider common sense are new to me. Thanks for going through the setup. (shopping list; T-9 Boeshield, renaissance wax, silicon carbide stone :)
The dry lubricant I use is Super Lube and I got it from Lowes. It goes on wet and dries within seconds. Good stuff.
You’re a drummer???
You know it! Kept me sane in college. :)
I have five bandsaws (1 14″ powermatic–my own) and 4 (2 Laguna’s, 1 Yates-American and one Ricon) at the school that I teach wood working. Your information is good and accurate. I prefer the ceramic guides of the Laguna. The carter on the Yates-American is adequate. The Ricon sucks. It would be nice to have the time to do all that you suggest. But alas, most of the time I am not sure what my name is. It reminds me of an old wood worker and wholesale wood salesman that had a triple exposed picture of a rooster that said, “I am so confused that I do not know where to put my pecker”. Thanks for the good work.
nice episode! it again shows how your show is so completely different than any other woodworking show I’ve ever seen! Keep up the great work.
Now I need to go out and get myself a bandsaw so I can put all these tips to good use!
…oh and I hope Nicole didn’t beat you too bad for poking her!
hi, this was great. I just found you guys a few weeks ago and been having fun looking at your sites. Both of you are entertaining and the combined effort is a hot. Try getting into Public TV or broadcasting. Your topica are good, can’t wait till the next one.
Bob
sorry about mispellings. The combined effort is a hit (not a hot).
I kind of liked it better when it was a hot. :)
Hot, hit or a hoot, I can tell you were having a good time with this…
Kinda had an NPR Car talk groove – but something I can get much more out of.
Speaking of which, I’ll be downloading future episodes for drivetime, lest my wife gets even less time on the computer!
Yeah, congrats on your first “episode.” It was smooth-listening and I look forward to the next one. Who would have thought…a frickin’ online radio show for woodworkers! Love it.
This was great! To be totally honest, I didn’t think I would find it as entertaining or informative as your video podcasts. I decided to check it out anyway. I’m sure glad I did. The topics were very spot-on for what I needed to know, and the discussion was lively, frank and informative. Thanks Mark and Matt!
Gentlemen,
Excellent show. I now have even more motivation to keep building projects. In fact I have begun building a Mission style Entertainment Center and I have a question. I’m up to the building of the cabinet doors which will have a pane of seeded glass in each. How do I add mullions to the cabinet doors? I want the glass to obviously sit behind them in a rabbit.
Thanks,
Ted
The first thing that comes to my mind, like Scott, is the NPR show “Click and Clack, the Tappet Brothers”
“Marc and Matt, the mortise and tenon of woodworking”
One great thing about the podcast is you can put it on hold and not miss anything. I didn’t want to miss any of it.
From up North Quebec, keep it up. You got a great start.
no question for now but it’ll come up.
Good show,
pierre
Awesome!!!! Marc I think your view on pricing was right on:) Can’t wait for the next one
Marc,
What blades do you put on your bandsaws for resawing? BC Saw? WoodSlicer? Lennox? Laguana? What has been you best performer?
Thanks,
Jeff
I like Lennox, but that is primarily because David Marks always used Lennox and I like their cut quality. I occasionally play with Timberwolf blades as well. THe other brands you mentioned all have great reputations too, so I would not recommend against them. In general, as long as you stay away from the cheapie brands, you can’t really go wrong.
Hi Marc & Matt….
Just finished listening to your first joint podcast and, I must say, it was very enjoyable. You guys work well together and I’m looking forward to many more.
I haven’t done any real woodworking since I was in high school a few (30) years ago and I’m looking to get back into it a bit. I e-mailed Marc about a month ago stating that I have decided to turn my garage into a wood working shop. I have since resolved that I need to build a shed or two to accomodate all the stuff in the garage so my first woodworking project (not exactly the woodworking I had in mind)will be a 10×14 shed. If that comes out good I’ll build a second one and then get the garage cleaned out to begin the transformation.
I’m looking forward to any tips I can get from you guys. Keep up the great and fun work…..it’s really appreciated!
John P
Great show, I can’t wait for more. The Internet is really starting to take off for woodworkers. There are so many really good sites out there now, and yours and Matt’s are at the top of my list.
Hello again. I finished my hardwood floor and applied water based Trek + one of three different ways. The first coat I used a brush and all went well – some lap marks but no big deal. The second coat with a paint pad for water based poly – went well but not as good as a mohair roller. No air bubbles and dried perfect and took so little time and effort. One question though. Before the floor was finished and just bare wood it looked and felt like glass. After the coats and buffing in between each it doesn’t look as flat. Almost like the poly seeps between the cracks and lowers versus the center of the wood which gives a less than flat look. I was thinking of buffing after the final coat with 600 grit paper. Any suggestions? Thanks again.
Hey Moe. By no means am I a floor finisher. I can only apply what I know about furniture finishing to your situation. Perhaps someone with floor experience can chime in.
Usually with furniture, you can sand your finish coat flat after you apply a coat or two of the finish. So any little dips or valleys will be taken care of. Then when you apply your final coat, it is glass smooth and flat. Now doing this on a larger scale is a whole different story. And hopefully someone else can chime in.
As for the final buffing, 600 grit would work fine but it will give you a satin finish. Assuming thats what you are looking for, you are good to go. Just let the floor cure for several days to a week before sanding. And use mineral spirits as a lubricant.
Hope that helps.
Nice! I truly enjoy flipping through pages of magazines, but this is future of informative woodworking and you can take it anywhere – great podcast guys! Marc you hit it on the head with pricing…you have to know your market and the individuals. My audience are those interested in “conversation pieces” (for lack of better terms) and fine joinery, not something that can be duplicated through a large retailer. A price tag comes with that. New formula (cost of materials + labor + price of new 3 HP Powermatic Cabinet Saw)You think I can get away with that on a cutting board? :-)
Marc,
Excellent job. This is actually one of the best videos that I have seen regarding tuning up a band saw. I will be sure to pass it along.
One final comment, I understand Woodcraft also sells something equivalent to “Silicon Carbide Stone,” but they call it a “Blade Tuning Stone.” :o)
Frank
Very cool! Love it, keep it coming.
Do you have a link to that shop rate survey you guys talked about where various folks priced out a cabinet?
Brilliant! As always, thanks for sharing. I do like this new podcast program and it certainly adds to your excellent library of information.
Thanks Marc!
Branden Petitt
good show for a first.
Had to laugh about glue squeeze out in tight places. You pros have forgotten about the most incredible tool of all — the sharp pocket knife.
The Wood Whisperer…excellent!
i keep clicking on the wood talk online but it will not open do i need to down load something new
the file is just an MP3 so it should play within your browser. Perhaps you need to enable some sort of media recognition within the browser itself. But most current versions of browsers should recognize the MP3. If not, you can always right click on the link, and save the file to your hard drive. Then you can use just about any media player to listen to the file. Alternatively, you can download ITunes and get all the files, including the videos, from there.
let me know if you continue to have difficulty.
Marc
I can’t get enough! Great job on the podcast, although I also prefer the vid podcasts better – just more meat and potatoes with the vids.
The average joe, wannabe, woodworking hobbist rarely gets a chance to talk to a pro or experienced hobbist. For many of us, woodworking clubs and classes are very difficult to get to depending on where you live. Relying on books/videos can only get you so far, so to have the podcasts and online resources that are now so accessable makes learning this hobby so much easier. Thanks for all you efforts…
I liked the format of the show and it reminded me of the TwiT podcast. Any chance you’ll be getting special guests to come on and talk about their experiences?
Marc,
Regarding the Varathane polyurethane problems, I was discussing a poly project with a Sherwin-Williams rep. and he cautioned me not to use shellac as a base for polyurathane. Sounds like you’ve used it before without any problems, but it was worth mentioning.
Allen
Hey Allen. Thanks for the tip. I have indeed used shellac many many times under various urethanes and oil/varnish mixtures. Shellac is an excellent “universal binder” for all sorts of top coats. To be more specific, dewaxed shellac. That may be where the SW rep is coming from. I would not coat a standard shellac surface with poly. But truthfully, there is even some debate going on as to the validity of that theory. Either way, I usually use a 1/2 pound to 1 pound cut of dewaxed shellac as a light sealer. The shellac I used for that particular project was Bullseye SealCoat, which is indeed dewaxed.
Really, really well-done. You guys should be promoting this to radio stations as a 2 or 3 hour Saturday morning talk show idea.
Hi,
Great job on the pod cast! Keep em coming. I’ve been doing a bunch of research the last couple of weeks on pricing your work and I think you are right on the money. I would just add that in deciding a shop rate to strongly consider your overhead (operating cost) and factor that in to what you want to make per hour.
Looking forward to the next episode,
Matt
The logo on my new Forrest WWII blade also looked worn, but I didn’t worry about it because I knew it was a new blade. My saw uses an unusual size: 12” with a 5/8” arbor.
Anyway, I only use either Forrest or Festool blades. By the way, you can send your Festool blades to Forrest for sharpening. Oh, I guess I will put out one exception: if I’m just cutting rough lumber like 2×4s, I would use just any cheap blade like Dewalt. Why wear a good blade down when the cut quality really isn’t that important?
Mark,
i can’t watch the videos at all. I am using Firefox browser. I have Windows XP, quick time, & windows media player.
Hey guys,
Sounds like you’ve got something here! This could really take off.
By the way,I agree with the two listeners who likened “Wood Talk Online” to NPR’s “Car Talk.” But I want to know which one of you is Click and which one is Clack? (Now you need a tag line, you know, like the Magliozzi’s, “Don’t drive like my brother!”)
As you get deeper into this thing, you might consider adding show notes to either or both of your websites, for links or other references you make during the podcast.
Congratulations, you’re off to a great start! Keep it up and good luck!
Rick
Hey Charles. There are two ways to view the videos, either right on the page with the flash video, or either one of the two quicktime MP4’s. If you have updated versions of your browser and Quicktime, you should be able to see the files. If not, there could be any number of reasons why. And unfortunately that goes a bit beyond my troubleshooting expertise. You can always try to download ITunes and subscribe to the show that way. The videos will all play withing ITunes.
Sorry you are having difficulty.
Nice podcast.
Will tune in on the next one
Marc — since you’re into technology, I thought I’d pass along a site I tried out last night: http://www.talkshoe.com. You can have a live show there (and it records to mp3) and listeners can join muted and “raise a hand” to be unmuted (by the host) or chat questions. Pretty slick, tho it does currently require a download. Thought I’d pass it along as a cool option for having a talk show.
Great show.
Hey Mike. We are familiar with TalkShoe and if we ever decide to do a live show, that’s probably where we will run it. I listen to a number of podcasts that use that system. Its very cool. Thanks for the suggestion.
hi, i enjoyed the show. great topics and sound advice. i really like the wood whisperer show. i know what you mean about no a/c, marc. we are rebuilding our swamp cooler this week. anyway keep up the good work.
josh mesa, az
Hi Marc,
Continuing the blade conversation, what are your thoughts on dado blades? I’ve been looking and they seem to go as low as $50 for Grizzly set all the way up to almost $300. Frued looks to have an 8″ “professional” offering for $95 which is the way i’m leaning, but wanted to hear from the experts first.
Thanks in advance!
The high end dado blades are awesome. But they are incredibly expensive. Since a dado is not for everyday use, I see no reason to buy the $300 models. The Freud unit you mentioned is an excellent value and gets really good reviews. I have recommended that blade many times in the past. I think you will be happy with the results.
Off topic :) Wow the shop looks great! Those lights really make a big difference
Off Topic:
Light, what a wonderful thing. Now you can put those Sharpies away and refill “Sponge Bob” with new pencil lead and eraser.
hey, love your shows very educating. I learn alot from them.
We have a night stand in our bedroom.That has white rings on it.I am guessing it came from when I was ill my wife put a pan that had a ice bag in it.A couple days later it had a white ring on it.I tryed wax, putting saelac on it no good results. Can you give any advice.
Thanks Dan
I have had the same issues with African Mahogany that Ron has mentioned. A couple of other furniture makers I know of told me that was the tendancy of African Mahogany and that “Genuine” Mahogany costs more per bf but that they had less loss.
I made a mahogany table with curved legs. I made 7 legs to get 4 good ones, and they would never twist until the final cut. One twisted so bad from end to end it looked like I had wrung water out of it!
Marc, I want to thank you for this pod cast on tune up for band saws. I went and made all the adjustments to my band-saw after watching it and ,what do you know, It actually can re saw wood now with out drifting. Even with my bad eyes I was able to re saw a piece of willow with little to no drifting. Again I thank you.
Lance
(charger1966)
I work with western maple very regularly and recieve stock from 3 different suppliers. I now only accept stock from 2 suppliers due to the way they dry thier wood.
This supplier drys thier wood way to quickly and at higher temputures which induce a great deal of stress which in turn damages my equipment and increases the danger of injury to me. The stock also exibits blown cells that are difficult to see until you have cut into the stock.
Just recently I recieved some of this stock form my local supplier mixed in among the lift. I imediatly contacted the supplier and requested the wood be taken back and replaced.
I may have more pull due to the volume of wood I purchase but I firmly believe, if you have a good relationship with your wood supplier, they should either replace or provide a discount on the stock you recieved.
Don’t let these suppliers be bullies.
Hey Dan. Check this out:
http://thewoodwhisperer.com/?p=121
Hey Guys,
GREAT first show. The discussion about pricing work/time was very helpful. I look forward to future shows!
Larry
Herman is right, I do have a good relationship with my supplier as well, and they replaced the mahogany that I lost.
None of the stock that I had exhibited the signs of being dried too quickly though.
Follow up on my buy of WWII blades from Amazon. I contacted Amazon, told them they shipped me the wrong blade, told them I wanted the 1/8 kerf. They were great, got right back to me, said they would drop the 1/8 kerf blade in the mail, free shipping. They did all that, except, you guessed it, it was another 3/32 kerf blade. So I’m good with that now. I’ve decided to stick with the thin kerf blade.
The new blade, nice new packaging, looks sharp, and it has the same worn out looking letters as the first blade. I’m assuming that Forrest just prints thin worn out looking letters on the blades. Dont know why, but two for two looks like a pattern.
Anyhow, off I go to chop up some wood with it.
Well thats a bummer. I meant to respond before but forgot. It does seem like the worn printing is just the way the blades are produced. I have yet to see a Forrest blade with a nice crisp label.
Great Show… Great ideas!!!!
concerning blade width, wouldnt a 3/4 inch blade give you even better results in regards to cutting uber thin veneer?
Hey Nick. Some folks certainly do believe that the wider blades would be better for thin veneer. From my experience, I have seen little difference in cut quality between 3/4″ and 1/2″ blades. So since 1/2″ blades are cheaper, I stick with the 1/2″. Plus the 1/2″ blades are more versatile in terms of cutting tighter curves.
hey craig i bet when you herd that you were going to be paying two bucks a board foot you thought, wow i never got boards for that price at home depot or lowes. craig i have had coustomers that paid extra for the worm holes. hunting lodges and the cabin on the lake owners go gaga for the rustic look. so dont consider worm holes a defect any more than you would a highly figured chunck of maple just adjust the board to the project.
but if you must get rid of the worm holes the easy to do it is with a plug cutting bit use a small section of the board that matches the wood surrounding the hole and run the grain in the same direction and wormholes are gone.
wait scratch all that and just send the boards to me and i will deal with those pesky wormholes.
good luck and remember keep your hands and spouse away from sharp objects in the shop.
One of the things I was waiting for you to talk about with regard to the bandsaw blade tension was detensioning the blade after use. I always seem to forget to do that, and I’ve been told it is better for the saw and the blade to do so. Is this something you practice?
Marc,
I greatly enjoyed this show, you hit several topics I’ve been researching this week myself! First, I’m the guy who discovered you by finding your 6″ Powermatic jointer on Craig’s List, and since I missed out on that buy, I was pleased to hear you recommend the 8″–I feel much better now;) Second, you covered shop lighting, and while browsing shopnotes.com and listening to your podcast at the same time, I ran across this decent article on fluorescent shop lighting from their online sample magazine, which might be helpful to your listeners:
http://www.shopnotes.com/files.....-46-47.pdf
Good luck, keep up the great work!
Marc:
Thanks for the excellent content! I really appreciate your no-nonsense perspective on woodworking. I’m an engineer by day and a decidedly amateur/hobbyist woodworker by night/weekend; lacking the freedom to apprentice or train with a master, learning from articulate and down-to-earth experts like yourself is a tremendous asset.
Now, to my comment… Real mayonnaise, as you say, is mostly composed of oil; if oil were the only thing you needed to remove the white rings, then the “folk remedy” would probably be to just apply vegetable oil to the stain. So unless Helman’s or Miracle Whip have started giving woodworking advise, there is something deeper going on. :)
Let’s look at what else is in Mayo… Real Mayo contains vegetable oil, eggs (mostly yolks), and an acid, such as lemon juice. It may also contain flavor enhancers such as salt and commercial products will contain some preservatives. Some products that claim to be Mayo are really just fancy industrial chemical concoctions, so who knows what’s in them.
Now, eggs, particularly the yolks, are powerful emulsifiers. This means, as you know, that they contain molecules which are capable of bonding to both water and oils. Soap is another emulsifier, but doesn’t taste nearly as good :) Compared to soap, the lecithin in yolks is much a weaker emulsifier, but it does the job.
I would speculate that real mayonnaise, applied to a water stain, would be able to “cross” or penetrate the lacquer and absorb the water; subsequent cleaning with furniture oil would probably wipe any mayo residue away. It makes sense to me that it might work, though I haven’t had occasion to try it.
One point is that you would have to use a “real” mayo — one which contains eggs, oil, and not much else. Many products in the supermarket are not true mayo. You could also make your own; Joy of Cooking’s recipe is quite good. If you’ve never had fresh, home-made mayo on your favorite sandwich, you haven’t truly lived. Just remember that its shelf life will be short, so keep it cold until use and dispose of any unused portion after a few days.
Another advantage of home-made mayo is that you know that it hasn’t been pasteurized, which, AFAIK, would reduce the lecithin’s emulsifying juju.
:)
Alex
Hey Thomas. I personally think it depends on your usage. If you use the saw at least once a week, (or just spin the tires a half turn), I dont see any issue leaving the bandsaw tensioned. And unless you have a quick release mechanism on your saw, tensioning and detensioning every time can be a real pain as well as lead to an inaccurate tension setup. I know you can count the number of turns, but after a while, that going to get pretty old. So call me lazy, but I usually dont worry about it too much.
Hey Alex. Thanks for all that helpful info. Guess I should tell you my other favorite way to spend my time: watching Food Network. :)
Marc, and ultimately Craig,
My great hope is that the “worm” is long gone. I would move that wood somewhere warm, but not inside or near my woodpile. I have a buddy who worked at a nearby dealer, and once they got a load of wood flooring that had been infested with powder-post beetles.
The larvae were largely dormant, only a worm hole or two was showing. The lot got sold, and installed, clear coated. Then the home owner started seeing new holes with a small pile of powder near the whole. Yikes. You can imagine the rest. Not one to instill wide spread panic, I just thought it important to mention; in case Craig’s dealer might be unethically unloading his problem on downstream users.
how do I known that the worm has gone?
how to kill the worm?
Thin Urethane, love it! Solved my bubble, speck and brush stroke problems on my dashboard.
For another option, I’ve found a light coat of Watco’s natural Danish Oil will help with this blotching problem common with open grain woods. I believe your answer to the endgrain may be the only way to fix that, however.
Marc, your answer concentrated on end-grain. I have had similar uneven absorption problems when staining face-grain of maple. I would be interested in your comments on face-grain problems.
Thanks
Good point. Uneven absorption in face grain can be prevented by using a light sealer coat of de-waxed shellac (1/2-1 lb cut). There are also commercial conditioners that do a decent job although I never really use them. Now if you plan on adding color (which is usually where the absorption issues show up), you should try spraying dye if you can. Thats the ultimate solution. If you cant spray, then try using a gel stain. Gel stains don’t absorb quite as much as a regular stain and will help prevent major blotchiness.
For the average person, a shellac sealer and gel stain are a g solid method. Just experiment on scrap to get the right balance of shellac. Too much will not let the stain absorb at all.
Posted for Wally.
I have also found that applying boiled linseed oil to the end grain of almost any kind of wood retards the absorption of an oil-based stain. You just have to apply the stain while the oil is still wet otherwise the dried linseed oil may prevent you from getting the desired hue to match the rest of the stained piece.
If you’re a bit skittish about how much stain will be absorbed, try wiping the stain off after a minute and check the result. If it’s too light just apply another coat of stain and keep repeating this process until you match the tone of the rest of the wood.
I also experimented with a latex-based stain and boiled linseed oil on the end grain and was pleased with the results. This experiment was done with pine so I have no idea how it will work with other species of wood.
Use odorless mineral spirits (which acts as a mild solvent, so you’ll need to rewax) or Old English Lemon Oil.
It’s amazing how well some of your podcast releases are timed just when I need them! I needed to get some more clamps when you released “the big squeeze” and now I’m ready to sharpen up my card scraper to do the final leveling of the workbench top I’m building. Are you spying on me?
Great stuff!! Funny I never used a scraper until about a year ago now I wonder how I ever got along without it!!
Ok…this is weird, how did you know that i just started using scrapers and that i am ready to sharpen them
Ahh…just many of the mysteries behind The Wood Whisperer……. :)
Great video. Once you figure out the scraper it is about the most economical tool in the shop….
The only thing I would add is that if you are new to scrapers do not give up. It will take you several times to get the sharpening down but once you get it right you will see how easy it is….
John
Could you disclose an easy way to burnish curved scrappers. I watched a preview on a DVD by Jet, but I havn’t had real great luck.
I almost forgot…. it is great to have you back with your podcast. Can’t wait to see your new shop layout.
Great video, it stirred my curiosity about card scrapers. Over at the Lie-Nielsen website on their scrapers page, they have card scrapers and scraper planes…what are the differences between the two?
Well the card scraper is exactly what you see in the video. A thin piece of steel with a hook on it. The way you sharpen it and the way you use it give you an exceptional amount of control over the aggressiveness and quality of cut.
Now a scraping plane works on the same principal by putting a hook on the edge of a blade. But the scraper planes have a much thicker blade. They are more like plane blades than anything. And there is usually a bevel on the blade as well, which is not the case on a standard card scraper. With a bevel, you can create a much more aggressive hook. The body of the scraper plane itself gives you a great deal of control over the angle of attack and depth of cut.
I used to own the small one, but I wound up never using it. A much cheaper option would be a Stanley #80 cabinet scraper. It works as I described above but I find the actual tool easier to use. I do all of my aggressive scraping using this tool.
Hope the brief explanation helps.
You continue to do a great job Marc! It is about time you consider a show on the DIY Network. Feel free to use me as a reference! :-)
Branden
You know, I have received so many comments about “being on tv” that I decided to look into it. Apparently there are some big time requirements to even be considered. You have to have your show filmed by a nationally-recognized production company and you have to have a show that has not aired in any way yet. That knocks me out on both counts. :)
I think we are all happier in our little internet community anyway. I dont want to go all Hollywood on you guys. lol
great show as usual, Marc. I’m new to card scrapers and I have a few quick questions if you don’t mind. First, when honing the sides, you only hone one side, correct? and when burnishing do you first burnish the honed side or the non honed side flat? Also, when creating the hook, do you burnish with the angle down towards the honed side or non honed side?
Just a newbie trying to get a grasp on the subject…
I agree with you, Marc, on the TV thing. Especially DIY Network. Ask DJM if he would do that again. I think we both already know the answer to that one. Besides, you’re well on your way to being as well known as David already!
Love the talk/show, keep’em coming. Always get some handy and useful info. Like the fact that your birthdays are back to back…what a pair of April Fools.
I would definately stay away from DIY. From what a little birdie on my shoulder told me, David has got nothing but the shaft from DIY. I find it very insulting that you can buy episodes of WoodWorks on Amazon and David does not receive a dime of that money. Nice morals DIY. Needless to say, I have cancelled my DIY and follow Marcs work instead.
good podcast, and ditto on the curved scraper appeal.
wrt the tv talk, is DJM David Marks? Yeah, I think I know where Scott is going with his thought. I attended one of David’s seminars at one of the Woodwrking Shows a couple of years ago and I got the sense that the tv folks expected quite a bit to be crammed into the 1/2 hour show (and on their terms). I also wonder whether your creativity and spontaneous nature would be stifled.
We love what you’re doing, plz keep it up.
MikeB
Marc, great site. I enjoyed the 4 segments for the arts and craft table. Could you repeat the stages / coats of finish for the table. ie. Minwax stain and then . . .
Thanks in advance
Ron
Since this thread has taken a turn toward your
illustrious career, I really think it’d be great if you discussed your approach(in more depth than you have) of the business side of woodworking. You’ve obtained some good sponsors. I, myself, want to keep my love of woodwork a hobby that sometimes pays for itself. I think for a 30 year old kid your doin’ great!
Marc,nice job on your sight. Their is one thing that should be address to us woodworking want to bees.You must notice that as a professional to woodworking, we as a group are making mistakes that you pick up instantly.That might be a topic one time,it would be interesting to hear your thoughts. Thanks Randy
Sure Ron. The table was hit with the Minwax cherry stain first, followed by a coat of pre-catalyzed sealer (Sherwin Williams). Then a light 320 grit sanding. THen about 4 coats of Sherwin Williams Precatalyzed Lacquer.
Marc, great site and I love the videos. You showed how to fold the blade, but what I was waiting for was the safe way to unfold the blade. I don’t have a bandsaw yet (but I’m always keeping an eye out for a deal!), so maybe unfolding a blade is not a big deal.
Hey Mike. Sorry my reply is late.
When honing the sides, I actually hone both sides. In fact, I do all 4 edges at the same time. I only did one side in the video for simplicity. So you will then burnish each honed side. If you only honed one edge (like I did in the video), you would burnish the honed face. And same thing goes for creating the hook. You will put your burnisher on an angle toward the honed side. But when you do all 4 edges, you of course burnish all four sides. So now you will have 4 fresh edges to work with. And technically speaking, you can do the short sides of the scraper as well, giving you a total of 8 fresh edges.
Hope that clears things up.
Great timing! I recently purchased my first card scraper and burnisher. Thanks for the help!
Hey Greg. The curved goose-neck scrapers are burnished exactly the same way. It just takes a little bit longer because you need to keeping moving the blade around so that every area gets a good hook on it.
Good luck.
One other difference is that the steel used for plane blades these days is probably a lot harder than the steel used for plane blades back when I was in junior high shop class. Today we have access to hard A2 steel plane blades, and my bet is that back then the planes in my junior high school shop had basic carbon steel blades, which were not as durable.
But I agree — storing planes blade down is the way to go.
I too store my planes blade down – and my shop teacher and Dad would have a fit except that I glued a +/- 1/4″ strip to the bench just back from where the nose of the plane rests. Therefore, the blade is “safe” and not resting on anything.
I was in elementary school shop so long ago that planes hadn’t been invented. ;-)
But seriously, why not retract the blade and store it any way you want? While working with the plane, put it on the bench either way, but down should be safe… unless you have a few loose screws lying around on the bench. ;-)
Why do we always get caught up in how we handle our tools. If you wreck your tool putting down incorrectly you will learn your lesson for next time. Fine Woodworking teaches us alot of things regarding “ideal” shop practice that I still today don’t follow and, by observation of others, notice others are the same. Lets all get along and not get to religious regarding proper handling of our precious tools.
I would never put the plane bladedown due to the fact that if the plane moves that can cause damage. When one is controlling the motion there really is no issue, however, when the plane is moved thru e.g. vibration, that causes damage than accumulates. Let air touch the blade, not wood.
Another thing is this: when two materials are always touching there is bound to be excess wear and tear!
Hi, I know both explanations and learnt in the past to store them sideways.
So I did not bother how to put them.
But recently I made some new doors in my shop. When making the final fit, while the (too heavy) doors were hanging, I used some block planes and profile planes. I soon found out that putting the planes with the blade on the concrete floor was not the best way to keep them sharp. I then thought : “Oh, That’s why I learnt to put them sideways. It will come from the old days when not all wood workers had nice benches, and you had to put your tools on whatever surface you had.(same for chisels: do not store them on the sharp edge, but rather with the edge floating above the surface)
Does this make sense?
Jaap, Mierlo, The Netherlands
Hey Andreas everyone has different views on how to store planes. set it flat and that makes you an idiot, lay it on the side and run the risk of hurting your self or the edge by bumping it. well they are all wrong. only I do it the right way! Ok stop laughing. really the way I store mine is with a rubberized magnet on the bottom, you know like the the ones the drug store and bank gives you with a calendar to stick on the fridge but you throw it away instead. just cut it to fit your plane, stick it on and problem solved. you can store your plane how ever you want to now.
oh yeah, has anyone else noticed that when you have a sliver in your finger your spouse calls it a splinter but when your spouse gets one its called a plank?
well the box says speak your mind!!!
lol. It does indeed say to speak your mind. You know, I just want to go on record as saying that my wife never gives me the proper amount of sympathy when I get a splinter (or a cut for that matter). She gives me that look that says, “See. Thats what you get for being a woodworker.”
Ok, resume the hand plane debate. :)
First of all you never put your plane blade side down on a finished piece that is just common sense.
Second, if you put the plane blade side down, there in no way that the blade will loose it’s edge. The only way that that can happen is by use. If the plane sits there for a year, the blade will be as sharp as it was the day ou put it down.
I agree there is nothing wrong with storing you planes blade down.
In the Woodworking Online podcast #5 (Things They Didn’t Teach You in Shop Class” Doug Hicks talks about this topic. He basically explains what Mark said in his original answer. In case you are still worried that the blade will be damaged then he shows a shop made holder with basically a dado to fit the blade that looks very practical and easy to build.
Never mind the planes, check out your homepage – did anyone tell you your hat is on backwards? Just kidding, Marc. Actually, there is another vodcast sponsored by a well-known wood crafts retailer where the fellow making comments either at the end or the beginning sets his plane down on it sole in a shelf.
I usually work in shorts. I always rest the plane on my thigh. You get used to the pain and you get to chat up good looking nurses at the E.R.
A guy demoing lei neilsen planes made the point that storing a plane on its side can knock the blade out of alignment. Although more than half the time I put it on it’s side. Old habits die hard…
As a professionnal furniture and cabinet maker, i keep my planes stored in their original boxes or blade down in a storage drawer. If I’m so scared of damaging the blade or slipping a finger next to it, I simply retract it! Don’t worry, steel is in fact much harder than wood and I’m more concerned about dropping the plane on the floor than siting it blade down on the bench.
Great show keep them coming
Mark,
I was just reading Bob Flexner’s book on finishing, and he discussed the issue of endgrain staining darker in one section.
But he said you don’t really have to sand any HIGHER grits than what you sanded the long grain, you just have to sand it BETTER. He said the whole process of end grain getting darker than long grain is because it isn’t sanded as smoothly, so it takes the stain more readily.
He demonstrated with pictures, showing that sanding the endgrain to the same grit, but sanding it longer to smooth it better, produced a finished piece that did not stain any darker than the long grain.
I haven’t yet had a chance to give it a try, but I wondered if you’d read that and what your thoughts were on his process.
Anything that saves me from having to jump up one or two more grits is worth trying, in my book.
Ethan
Phenomenal Mark – Putting a good hook on a scraper has until now been a bit of a hit or miss affair but your video showed me something I wasn’t doing (using the burnishing rod on the scraper edge whilst it lays flat on the bench before trying to roll over the edge itself with the scraper held vertically in a vice). I tried it and it worked great.
Brian,
I completely agree on the time and experience thing Marc said. It is hard for a novice (including me) and can be intimidating when there are so many types of wood to pick from. Don’t let the challenge discourage you – it is a great opportunity to learn!
I would also suggest that if your friend is working in a cabinet shop, they might be of assistance as well. If they are letting you pick through the shorts, they would likely offer some pointers on the different pieces in the pile.
Another good place to go for this info is
http://www.rarewoodsandveneers.com
They have an extensive collection of wood samples and include the Latin name and major source area.
As usual I enjoyed the latest Woodtalk Online Episode, entertaining and insightful. Check both your websites daily for new entries. I got my new issue of Woodworkers Journal day after I sent my last question about t-boxes and the cover story was about T-boxes that and a re-viewing of The King and His Castle was able to answer my question as to what a T-box was. News from WV………MY NEW JOINTER IS HERE! Made the trip to Woodcraft in Parkersburg, WV and Just got back. I wanted to haul it up to my shop which is a free standing building about 100 yards behind my house (uphill) but with no help at this late hour I haven’t even been able to get the 500lb beast out of the truck bed. I wound up buying the 6″ Powermatic and I’m glad since I got the free Powermatic toy truck with it. (A definite deal closer) I guess I just had to write someone who can relate to my enthusiasm especially Matt since he is squaring every board in his shop with his new Grizzly. Keep up the Podcast I enjoy them almost as much as 3 stooges reruns. Oh I do have one confession to make….my wife is a knitter.
Roger in WV
handle: DocK
I just found an awesome book called “What Wood is That? : A Manual of Wood Identification” by Herbert L. Edlin which contains forty actual wood samples.
http://s44.photobucket.com/alb.....ZVPSVL.jpg
My wife and I love your Cutting Board Vid, especially the “….cuttinnnnnnnnng boarrrrrrd” part. The phrase is repeated many times a week around our house.
Thanks for the awsome episode and keep up that sense of humor.
KB
SawStop has a much less expensive contractor model coming out in the fourth quarter of the year. Although I think it may be more of a hybrid saw because it has dust collection. I looked at the big $3500 model at Woodcraft and WOW nice feel. I just can’t afford it even after loosing my index finger 11 months ago. This new $800 version I can definitely afford. I had no idea how much trouble an amputation is and I was lucky by only losing one finger. For 6 months I couldn’t even chuck a drill bit because I had no grip strength. A year later I still have pain and swelling. This year I can finally start a line trimmer and feel normal which is good because I have a huge list of things not done last year. I never thought how good it would feel to just pick up a tool and use it effortlessly again. I’m also lucky I had a desk job that didn’t require strength. A friend of mine at work has a son whose dream is making guitars but he didn’t want him taking shop until he discovered they had sawstop as most of the local schools now. I didn’t like them doing the hot dog demo for the kids because I thought proper fear is necessary.
As to cost, a brake is $65-$70. On the other hand, I had Aetna so ER visit $50, drugs $25, rehab $20, doctor $15, surgery $100 (actual cost over $16,000) so that shouldn’t be that much. Well my taxes show an expense of around $2000 of these nickel and dime expenses.
As to reaction times, I got an email from Mr Gass explaining blade penetration per millisecond based on speed of the hand. Basically, since I slapped the blade the finger was off before I could even send the signal to pull my hand away.
I don’t know about you. I’m sure glad Marc posted the video. I didn’t realize I missed so much due to the fury of chatting that was going on. Wasn’t it intense!
It was the best 2-hour of Internet land I’ve ever had. Great Job! Great Fun! You are the “King”
Sorry I missed the live event. It’s nice to have the replay available. The additional links are great as well. It looks like I don’t have an excuse for getting the car into the garage any more :-(.
My son is doing a report on the density of wood.
He has picked:MDF, Walnut, Maple, Doug fur, and a few others.
Where can he find info in this regard.
Thanks
Bjarne
Thanks for posting this compilation. I had a prior engagement so I unfortunately couldn’t participate in the live event. Next time.
Bjarne,
Remember that Google is your friend. Type in Density of XXXX, replacing the x’s with your material of choice, and I am sure you will find exactly what you are looking for.
You also might want to search fro specific gravity for an explanation of how the density of wood is typically reported.
Hope that helps.
Cant believe i missed the live show, cant wait till the next one. When is the next “real” podcast coming out Marc? This one was awesome but i cant wait until one with an actual project comes out.
Well, its still hard for me to predict when the “real” podcasts will air. I am still trying to balance getting a few major commissions done while coming up with ideas for the podcast.
I plan on doing a few podcasts based on techniques I will be using for these upcoming projects. Two of the topics I hope to cover are dovetails and home-sawn veneers. But I cant film them until I am at that point in the project. Also, we have the assembly table project coming out soon. Just waiting for the green light from FineWoodworking.com.
So hold tight. We are working toward more and more steady content. But there are a number of loose ends to tie up before we get there.
Great live show but my wife (the knitter) was upset the show ran into the dinner she prepared and I wouldn’t leave the computer. Just finished watching the rerun from the website and the sound was much better, less of the reverb/echo and the issue with the lapel mike. All in all a great broadcast lots of info, but you forgot to roll the credits at the end of the show.
Wow, that was a neat tour Marc! Very informative. I like the way you managed to answer some tough landmine questions such as the dust collection pvc or the sawstop questions and not cave in with the safe answers. Keep up the good work my friend
Regarding the echo:
I had noticed the echo when I opened the Ustream “open in large separate view” window. This is so you could view the video portion over your entire computer screen. When I had moved back to normal view, the echo stopped?
I like your podcasts and the music. Great idea. Chris’s last name is Schwarz not Schwartz.
Great to the point instructions.
Thanks and best regards
JH
Yeah,
I read somewhere (long ago) that this mix (boiled linseed oil, turpentine, and spar varnish in equal proportions) was a favorite of Sam Maloof. Because I don’t have a dedicated finishing area this finish works great in my less than dust free shop. It does, however, take several days to build up 3 or 4 coats.
how about just 50/50 varnish and mineral spirits? used that just fine on a project
Hey Nick. That basically just a wiping varnish formulation. Thats one of my favorites. Dries faster and offers more protection. But some people like the addition of the oil as it becomes a more “close to the wood” finish. But as long as you dont apply too many coats, the wiping varnish will produce a similar finish.
Sounds like someone found WoodWorks.
Thanks for the great video! Very informative. I will definitely be visiting The Wood Whisperer more often.
Marc,
You apprenticed with David Marks…I heard that he actually uses the Waterlox wipe-on product. Is that true?
I cant say for sure what he’s using now, but he used to use General Finishes Seal-a-Cell followed by General Finishes Arm-r-Seal.
The BLO, tung,poly mix comes from Rockler. I went there looking for the individual components and saw it with Sam Maloof on the label. It works great for me, but I’m dummy and was following Dave Knipfer’s Rude and Crude method. Where can I learn my finishing options? I make bandsaw boxes and the finish takes 5 days counting lining the drawers.
Your site Rocks, by the way.
what might be better for a sofa table the wiping varnish formulation or the seal-a-cell/arm-r-seal combo?
Frank- Your best bet is one of the classic finishing reference books in The Wood Whisperer Store. They will generally outline all of your finishing options. Using a wiping varnish would speed up your finish process.
Ron- The Arm-R-Seal is a wiping varnish itself. So you are starting with an oil/varnish blend (seal-a-cell), and top coating with a wiping varnish.
Many people think you can just go right to the wiping varnish and save time. Using both seal-a-cell and arm-r-seal will not improve the durability. It just changes the look. I would try both methods on scrap to see if its worth the extra effort and time to use the Seal-a-Cell.
Now that was fun to watch! I am continually impressed by the quality of the shows and your WW knowledge Marc. You’re my hero, keep up the great work.
Cheers
This is also my favorite finish. 1/3 tung oil, 1/3 boiled linseed and 1/3 polyurethane. This is the Sam Maloof finish. Builds quicker than the formula with mineral spirits. You can maintain with 1/3 linseed, 1/3 tung and 2 handfuls of shredded beeswax.
Hi Guys! I enjoy the Wood Talk Online episodes and listen to them while I’m out walking to get some exercise.
In listening to episode 6, there was a question from a power tool user asking about developing his hand tool skills with a goal of creating hand cut dovetails (or at least that’s what I thought I heard). You and Matt immediately went into describing the basic hand tools one should have – and while I agree with the tools you mentioned, I don’t think that was the question. As I recall, the question dealt with what was needed to acquire the skills to cut dovetails by hand. Here’s my answer:
1. Practice laying out the joint with a marking guage (and/or a cutting guage) and a layout knife. Make sure your layout out cuts are deep enough so your chisel seats in them easily.
2. Practice sawing to a line. Cut to the line but do not cut away the line.
3. Practice chiseling to a line.
Put simply – Practice, practice, practice.
keep up the good work,
,,,,,,,,,Chet
Hey guys. Thanks for getting to my inlay question in this Episode. I was able to get some results that I am happy with. I will be posting the finished project on the LumberJock site sometime tomorrow. Check it out. Look for USCJeff.
Thanks again!
Jeff
I’m getting through half the episode (15), when all of a sudden at the forrest blade part it stops and goes back to the beginning…wdyt?
Which version are you watching? Large, small, or flash?
Flash version does it
I had the same issue on the flash version. On linux, the quicktime files don’t play.
Blip does the flash conversion so unfortunately I dont have control over that process. I will re-encode the file at a smaller bit rate, which should reduce the file size and repost the new file. Hopefully that will fix the problem. Sorry for the trouble guys.
Good work once again Marc! I was cooking while I listened and watched so I may have missed it but I would be interested in seeing the Festool table setup in action along with your comments on it vs using a table saw for certain kinds of cutting.
Hi Mark
Just finished watching the shop tour recording Parts 1 & 2.
I was a refreshing and frank show, which finished too soon. I enjoyed it very much and look forward to your next instalment, whatever that may be.
Thanks to you and “The Team”
About Kickback.
I wanted to echo your comments about sensing a kickback just before it happened and the importance of that kick off power switch you added to your saw. I’m a few days from my one year anniversary of my amputation. Just before the accident I heard the sound change and could feel the pull om the workpiece. Unfortunately I froze because I had no idea what to do about it because I could not reach the recessed power switch and a new I would get hit if I let go with either hand. Unfortunately the wood/saw made the decision for me. There are several things I would do differently but I wish I had a splitter like yours – I now have an MJ splitter. The other is I modified my saw switch like you did so I could now turn the saw off with my knee. Your video was good timing because a magazine had just shown the same set up but seeing you with it was the kick in the A– I needed to build it. I love that kick bar and I recommend it to all your viewers. I forget which video, Marc which was it. Also, I’m headed to Grizzly this weekend to get a jointer – insert angels singing.
Thanks for explaining what you mean by relative dimensioning. That’s the way I woodwork and to be honest I have long felt that I was compensating for my mistakes by working that way. When I see woodworking shows like NYW, it seems like Norm Abrams has a level of accuracy in the way he works that I am never able to consistently obtain so I don’t attempt to cut all my parts to size in advance. I’m glad to hear that I’m not alone in my method of woodworking and would be curious to know if you found out if David Marks works that way as well.
Also, I wouldn’t be surprised if others like Norm used relative dimensioning when making their prototypes since by the time he shoots his show his “project” is a second go-around of anything he does.
With that in mind, the main drawback I find in using relative dimensioning to build a project is that in a small shop like mine a woodworker definately benefits from having both a workbench and an assembly table. Since my assembly table doubles as my table saw outfeed, it can be a pain to have to clear midway through a project so I can return to cutting something on the table saw.
Hey guys – take a closer look a the WorkSharp.
1. The system grinds the bevel & hones the back in the one operation.
2. There is a slotted wheel that does allow you to watch the bevel if you really need to see this (and this wheel is required for curved bevel tools.)
I am hanging out for the 240VAC version to be released for Australia (am told it should be here sometime in 2008)
Hey Paul. I think you will find that most pro and old timers are cut to fit kinda guys. No matter how you slice it is the most accurate way to woodwork. THink about how many places you can mess up if you are always trying to cut to a theoretical number. There is error in the tape itself. If you have more than one measuring device in the shop, they may be slightly different. The pencil you use could make a difference in the thickness of your lines. The placement of your line could be off. Then you have to cut to the line, which may not be consistent every time. I think if you asked around, you would find that this method, although perhaps not given a name, is very common. And believe me, Norm works hard to make the project look that easy. And its very easy to hide your flaws in a video.
And I see your point about space. It does make it hard if your assembly table is a shared space.
Hey Marc, that Tshirt your wearing… are you a gamer?(just one more level)
I was able to get all the way through it this time, so appreciate if you had to do anything to it! Good stuff – Thanks!
Hey there Guys
Another trick to eliminate tear out for the tenons is to scribe the cutting line all around with a striking knife (or stanley knife if no striking knife is available). This will sever the fibres on the surface of the work & stop the tear out.
Ross.
Yes indeed I am a gamer!
And yes I reloaded the video file and that seemed to take care of the video isue.
So that’s what you call that method of construction?? I thought it was the “oops” method:) I don’t think I have ever built a project any other way and to be honest I felt the same way Paul has in thinking I was just simply compensating for my mistakes. Thanks for the clarification:) Now I don’t feel like such a door knob
The Jeff Jewitt finish is the way I am most familiar with when dealing with quarter sawn wood, looks very nice in my opinion. I like the look of the hall table as well. What exactly is the ammonia doing to the wood? Almost looks like it has a bleaching effect of the grain of the quarter saw that would normally be dark.
As I understand it, the ammonia fumes react with the tannic acid in the wood. And the tannic acid levels are very low in the area of the medullary ray flecks. This means they stay a milky white color while the rest of the piece darkens. This is why I prefer this type of finish over the “fuming substitutes”. Most other finishes simply layer color on top of the wood, which will darken up the flecks. Fuming changes the color within the wood, and has little/no effect on the flecks at all.
Interesting! Does this only work with quarter saw or could you do this with anigre and get similar effects?
So which is the favorite game(s) Marc?
Its really something specific to woods that have high levels of tannic acid. If I remember correctly, someone over at the WWA forum did an experiment testing various woods and the effect of fuming. Many of the woods changed. But usually not if a favorable way. :)
So I would stick with white oak.
I have to say ” I get my hat off at you”. What you have done on this episode is not easy. To answer all those bombing questions to everyone who ask its mayor league. I enjoyed a lot this Q&A setion. One thing is clear, when you have so may questions from all the woodworking community, you must be doing something good. And most important, you are gaining their respect including mine. I don’t have a big shop ( mine is 10 x 10 )but something is true on this, once I enter that small shop door I’m the king..
Good bless you and my respects to miss Nichole..
Luis
nice job Marc, you make it look all too easy. A quick question – I know from past episodes that you usually wait about 1/2 hour before scraping off the squeeze out when gluing up your panels, but do you scrape immediately with the veneer? It seems as though you’d want to get the other piece of tape on right away to seal up the joint, right?
You know I can’t help thinking about your bunny-bucket-laptop-teleprompter while watching the podcast now…
Was that a brad nailer I saw you using?! Something I thought I’d never see! :)
Thanks for showing the fence construction – shop made jigs / fences seem like the way to go and you made the process very straight forward.
Great info..
I just started using a vacuum press for veneering and it is pretty exciting to be able glue up large pieces. Do you use a vac press? There are some great websites on how to build your own system for a modest price.
Anyway great show and I look forward to seeing more..
R
Hey mike. I do scrape immediately with the veneer. Reason being that I am dealing with the glue side of the veneer at that point. So if glue gets embedded in the grain its really no big deal. And the second piece of tape could be considered overkill, but I do it so that the joint has no chance of opening up and I can then move the piece around. I need a more elegant solution than the bunny bucket. lol
Skee- Haha. Indeed that was my brad nailer. You’ll see it extensively when I do the assembly table project. :)
Ron- I do have a vacuum press. My current bag is a 4′x4′. I need something bigger for the current project so I will be making a new bag. I am considering making this a podcast as well.
This is the first video that I watched and am very iompressed. Good job, and thank you.
now back to the others
On the topic of drift angles; is there any guarantee that the dift angle will remain the same for a blade if lets say, you have a 1/2 blade for re-sawing, set up the angle, then switch to a 1/4 for some curved cuts, then back to the 1/2 for re-sawing, will the drift angle still be the same for that 1/2 blade or do you have to always check the drift angle when the blade has been removed?
Its very likely that the same blade placed back onto the same saw will have the same drift angle. But due to the fact that the blade might wind up on a different part of the tire, there could be a slight difference. But in most cases, I would say the drift angle will be the same.
If you don’t have a drum sander, couldn’t you run the 1/8 piece off the bandsaw through the planer to smooth/flatten the bandsawn side? Or sand by hand? What do you think?
Its always a little scary planing really thin pieces of wood. Consult your owners manual to see what they recommend as the thinnest stock you should run through. From my experience, most planers will recommend against running stock that thin. And not to mention, when you do run stock that thin, its very easy for the impact of the blades to destroy the piece of veneer.
One option would be to create a sled. you can double stick tape a piece of veneer to a 3/4″ piece of plywood, and run that through the planer. But be cautious. If the veneer comes loose, you can have a real problem. So be sure to secure it well.
The sled method is probably what I would do if I didnt have a drum sander.
speaking of the sled, instead of double stick tape, rip a sheet of melamine to the width of the planer bed, and a few inches longer. screw on a lip under the sled so the rollers wont suck the sled in and you got yourself a planer sled. but many a times you hear *CRACK SLIT TICK CRACK* and then you hear your splines being sucked up into the the pipes.
Even a 3/16″ is scary. My very last piece of flame koa exploded in my planer. It was a headstock over-lay on a guitar I was building.
Eep!!! On to plan B!!!
I got it done but still..should have sanded it.
gotta love exploding wood
Love the webisode and the Floyd reference.
Always entertaining and informative.
Just finished watching this 2nd episode and wanted to say thanks for the great production! Please post advance notice so that we can all watch the next one live.
Thanks again.
Marc, Are you using an electric die grinder(sic) for your carving. I’ve been planning a 60 gallon two stage a/c, becuz the air driven models use a lot of air. Your thoughts?
I use a Makita Die Grinder. This one, in fact:
http://astore.amazon.com/thewo.....19-0814220
Works great. I have never regretted going electric.
Marc, in your shop tour you mentioned how you use rubber mats around your shop to help stop the sore feet you previously had. I know what you mean, but I found that having mats around my shop was a nuisance and potentially something I could trip over because of all the transitions between matted areas and cement floor.
I recently bought some Wolverine work shoes that are great for our needs around the shop. They have non skid bottoms with shock absorbing bottoms as well as inserts. Just another option for you.
I think you guys touched on this in an earlier show. But, when would you use solid lumber for a panel alternating grain orientation or not, or instead using veneer over a substrate. The more I learn, the more it seems smarter to veneer, unless the piece is made of a common wood. ie. pine or poplar, etc.
Wolverine huh? Where can I find such fabulous footwear?
In many cases, it is “smarter” to veneer. But many times, there is a certain pride that comes with making something out of solid wood. And you might eventually have a customer that insists on solid wood. So you have to strike a balance between what makes the most sense, and what the person wants. But since much of furniture involves a matter of taste and style, the decision to use veneer will always be a personal choice, rather than an necessity.
In my work, more often than not, if there is a flat portion to the piece, it will be a veneered sheetgood.
I 2nd what Marc mentioned, learn how to do it free hand and you will open many doors for yourself and your designs!!!
BOY! You weren’t kidding. This show was PACKED!
I actually had to take notes. It’s not an apprenticeship, but http://www.northwestwoodworking.com/ is one of probably more distance programs available.
Another reason to hate polyurethane glue, a veterinarian friend has performed several emergency surgeries on dogs to remove cured glue from their stomach/bowels. Evidently, dogs love the stuff. I have 3, so none in my shop.
And finally, Matt was correct about RA saw blade spin. You pull thru the wood. So, it would be possible to throw wood at yourself.
good point. Thanks for clearing up the blade issue.
And I actually remember reading something about dogs loving that glue. Excellent reminder!
Posted on Kevin’s behalf:
Mark/Matt:
I remembered this article in Fine Homebuilding on making a parquet floor. It might be of interest for your caller who was asking about this. It actually look kind of fun, but I never cared for parquet.
Thanks,
- Kevin
http://www.taunton.com/finehom.....aspx?ac=ts
Sorry Guys the blade of a radial arm saw does not spin in the direction to cause the wood to come at you. The saw blade spins so that if the blade were to catch the wood the machine is pushed toward you. Usually the machine binds in the wood first causing the stators to eventually burn out. I have a radial arm saw and pointed out how dangerous the tool is in my submitted shop video tour on lumberjocks.
Yeah I thought that was the case. Every time I have used a radial arm its always a matter of controlling the saw itself so that it doesnt jump. The motion of the cut, in theory, should always be toward the fence.
I think Matt and I made this more confusing than it needed to be. lol
God, maybe that’s what I was thinking about..the arm flying at me. My stuff is all stored until I finish my shop…I will still set up the RA saw, it’s only tried to kill me once:)lol
boy – two for one :)
thanks Marc and Matt for answering both my questions. I need to go back to the Woodworks episode but I’m thinking you may be right and I got plastic resin glue mixed up with polyurethane glue. so, I’ll “stick” with (pun intended) TB3 for my project. Great advice, thanks!
Thanks for addressing my leather question, too. When I was looking into it, I did find Christopher Schwarz’s blog. He pretty much did the same thing you or I would do. He grabbed whatever was available at Michael’s. Actually, he even mentions that his first inclination was to cut up one of his wife’s old purses.
I’ll probably just grab whatever I come across locally. My neighbor is now deployed anyway, and I don’t really want to wait until he gets back to add whatever I come up with to his next order.
Other than the leather, the bench is complete. I’ll probably be posting it over at lumberjocks (my screen name there is muzhik) before you wake up and read this.
Whoah!! What a bench!! Anyone who hasn’t seen it needs to!
http://lumberjocks.com/projects/1492
Nice job!
Scott, beautiful bench…you should submit to FWW Tools issue. There’s drool on my keyboard!
As usual a very interesting and informative show, but you should have passed the question on which tool to buy (jointer or bandsaw) to your wives. My wife’s philosophy, when you can’t decide buy both.
DocK
Hi Mark, I have really enjoyed your videos and have been learning a lot as a result. I just thought I would mention to all potential Sketchup users that the free download version is for non-commercial use. I know that most people don’t read licenses, thus why I mentioned this. If you are using Sketchup for commerical gain, it wouldn’t hurt to pay the small licensing charge associated with the professional version which can be used for commercial gain.
I tend to use wipe-on fiinishes a lot, and what I normally do is this .. .. .. when concluding a finishing session, I grab the applicator rag in one fist, pull the rubber glove (you ARE wearing gloves, right?)off with the rag still in it .. then, put the rag/glove in your other hand and do likewise. Now, if you wish, you can simply put it in the freezer as is or in a secondary container. When you are ready to use it, just take it out, warm it up for a few minutes, and peel off the old gloves.
Episode 16 “Wish You Veneer” is absolutely great and very timely. You have taken the mystery out of cutting veneer for me. Now, to finish it off, I am looking forward to gluing the veneer to the substrate.
Great episode, Marc.
Many 2nd hand clothing stores will sell big bags of used T-shirts for next to nothing and the money goes to a good cause. I find most of these work pretty well for rags and you don’t feel so badly about using all you need…Rick
i heard poly was better for curved pressing than vinyl is, true or false? and im so buying my bag after seeing that :).
yeah…think I’ll just buy a bag.
marc did you wait 24 hours between drying because i noticed you were wearing the same things when you un-clamped them
Marc, what do you use to seal up the unglued end when the vac is on? Just curious. Thanks for the vid.
Poly is definitely the best choice for curved projects because its much more elastic than vinyl.
Well, there’s an answer from the MAN himself! Thanks for stopping by Joe.
To answer the other questions, I did wait 24 hours for the glue to dry. You will notice that I generally wear the same clothes throughout my podcasts. I do realize how funny this looks when the viewer knows that a day has passed. But I assure you, the shirt washed at least once while filming. lol. Usually Nicole makes sure my clothes are clean everyday but she was out of town. :)
And from my initial experiences with the poly, the material is much more flexible than the vinyl bag I have. I could see this material conforming easily to just about any shape my little brain could come up with.
Instead of rags I use blue shop towels, kind of like heavy duty paper towels. Be sure to let them dry before putting in garbage. Two weeks ago I didn’t let them dry and noticed smoke comming out of my garbage can. I learned my lesson.
Just one more follow up…
You can also use the HH-66 to seal up any remaining leaks by brushing it onto the seams while there is vacuum pressure in the bag.
Excellent episode Marc.
Thank you for sharing this adventure. I’d love to see other content providers talk about and discuss some of their projects that didn’t go as expected. Most of the woodworking shows I watch make it all about “getting it right every time”. I’m positive they edit out the projects that got sideways on them. When filming, they just repeat a step that didn’t go as expected and the show makes it look like it was done right the first time.
Think we can ever get the Yankee to do a blooper reel?
Again, thank you.
Great video. I’ve been looking at making a bag and was wondering how the heck was I going to get that poly to keep from curling when the solvent is applied. I think I’ll just buy a bag. Thanks!
Another great one. Thanks for getting to my question. I need to come up with more and/or maybe get my mic working. Need to catch up to Skee and Ty!
Hi Marc, I enjoy watching your video’s great job. As for sealing the polyurethane bag, maybe a different approach would be to tape the seams with something like 3M VHB 9473 (very high bond) style tape.
As always, awesome podcast!!! That assembly table looks to good to get dirty. Maybe it could be a rustic dinner table!!!
Hey! Looks good! I really enjoy your videos! Quick question, I’m always blowing out brads when nailing into or out of ply. How do you select your nail length as you put your subassmbly together?
Marc,
Nice project and very timely for a project I’m doing. I’m working what’s basically a base cabinet for my Jet mini lathe. Overall size is 36″ inches tall, 27″ wide and 25″ deep. It has 4 drawers with full extension slides like you have. This will be a tri-use cabinet, main usage is for the lathe, 2nd usage is for table saw extension but now that I’ve seen this video, I can also use if for assembly of small projects like jewelry boxes and small hope chests. I’ve been thinking about how I was going to finish the top and your designs with both the sacrifice surface and polyurethane will do the trick for me. The oak trim with walnut plugs are also another design feature I’ll use. One thing I did add into my design is a fold up extension side as I work in a 2 car garage and have to keep things mobile and able to be stowed away. Thanks for all the tips and hints. Keep up the good work.
Marc,
I’ve always heard that interior doors are torsion box design with cardboard innards and about an 1/8th” skin on both sides.
Do you think its possible to simply throw on the 1/2″ MDF (that is what you used for skins, right) on both sides of an interior door (or 2 interior doors ganged up) as a way to accelerate the assembly table build-up?
Hey Mark – great video. I’m interested about how you would fit a new piece of hardboard when the time comes. The original piece was easy to get a perfect fit, as you used a flush trim bit. However, because the hardwood sides are glued on, that technique will not work next time. Are there any easy ways to do this? Otherwise, I was thinking of building this with the sides just screwed on, so they can be removed at a later time and so allow any new piece to be flush trimmed again. Friction fit plugs to cover the screws would let me get to protected screw heads. Can you see any problems with leaving out the glue?
Marc, one thing I don’t see in the drawings and didn’t notice in the videos is how you attach the top to the base. I can see it sits on top of the stretchers, which leaves space between the bottom of the top and the case (except where it contacts the stretchers) but not the fastening method.
Thanks.
Thanks for the great video and tips!
BasementDweller:
Usually for ply I use 1 1/4″ nails. Thats pretty standard for 3/4″ ply. The best way to make sure you dont have blow out is to check and double check your gun alignment. If the gun is perfectly perpindicular, the brad should fire straight.
Bob: You should post pics of your project in our Flickr gallery. I would love to see it.
Ross: The only problem I can see with your idea is the fact that MDF is not the best material to drive a screw in and out of multiple times. So after a few top replacements, the screws probably wont hold anymore. Refitting a new top really wouldnt be too difficult. Just measure and cut. Any areas that are tight can be relieved with a block plane.
Bob:
Yeah I guess we forgot to mention that. lol. I just drove a few screws through the stretchers into the bottom of the torsion box. With a top as heavy as that, you dont need a whole lot of holding power. So 4 screws in each corner did the trick. As for the resulting gaps, thats where your wires and hoses run for your accessories on the sides.
Thanks Andy.
Randy: I know many folks who have used doors for workbenches and assembly tables with great success. The issue here is whether or not the doors are dead flat. Most likely, they are not. But are they flat enough for most things? Perhaps. Do you have a really high quality and very long straight edge? If so, check the doors and try to find the flattest ones possible. Joining two doors together and keeping the whole assembly flat could get tricky too. So is it a perfect substitution? No. Will it get the job done? Yuppers.
Nicely done. Ironically, my torsion box assembly table needs to be redone right now and I’m inclined to scale down from 4 x 6 to 4 x 4 to conserve shop space.
Did you find 4 x 4 was too small for many projects?
Thanks for the episode…
I don’t know if Joe has it but I used to work in a boat shop and we used “Dum Dum” to seal vac bags and to seal the bag to the mold. It is like a long strip of stiff silly putty. It has some thickness to allow for minor misalignments and you can add “Darts” for major misalignment and curves. It can also be re-used a couple of times if your careful. The best part is that it is generally used to seal the bag to the mold even if the mold is a flat panel. This way you don’t have to try and slip your work into the bag. You simpally place the bag over the setup and seal it to the table. Of course you table needs to be air tight and you’ll need a breather cloth.
A stethoscope with the end cut off can really help pinpoint leaks.
Hello,
maybe a silly question: the base need as well to be shimmed to keep the torsion box dead-flat?
and thanks for the nice videos!!
-Ron
Marc,
Probably in grandmother, sucking and eggs territory here, but did you level the base units to the same degree that you did when constructing the top? I can’t help feeling that the top will mould itself to the base over time (MDF does creep after all), so if the base isn’t dead flat, then eventually neither will your wonderful torsion box be.
Marc, I went to a school that taught us how to vacuum bag composites like fiber glass, and other materials. What we used to seal up the bags was a sticky play-do like material. We even used a play-do press to form it into long strings. It allowed us to change the size of the area to be vacuumed. I have photos of what I am talking about if you would like to see them. But the largest area we cover was 10′ x 5′ and it worked like a charm. Leaking areas only need to be pushed down and your done.
Love the shows Thanks for all the helpful hints, tips, and knowledge.
Well, I cant pretend to know for sure whether or not a torsion box would sag over time. Lets put it this way. Once I place the top on the base, if there is an serious discrepancy I would certainly shim it. I may have just lucked out in that mine was laying pretty much flat at all screw points. So I suppose if you have large gaps, it would be worth the time to shim it. Not to mention, if you have large gaps, you will also have issues installing doors and drawers.
Marc – great podcast! I have been needing to build one of these and have been putting it off – especially since I heard you were working on one for Fine Woodworking. Quick question with respect to the torsion box: The plans call for 3/4″ skins on the top and bottom, yet in the podcast you say they are 1/2″. Does it matter? What do you suggest? By the way, thanks for the drawer sizing tips on the base – great ideas!
Hey Colby. I looked over the drawings and I dont see where it calls for 3/4″ skins. I did use 1/2″ material, but you certainly could use 3/4″ if you wanted to. The main difference is the whole table would be even heavier than it already is. Please let me know where the misprint is and I will try to have it corrected.
UPDATE: We corrected the downloadable plan on Tuesday afternoon after discovering that it called for 3/4-in. skins rather than the correct 1/2 in. skins. This mistake also affected the width of the hardwood trim. The new plan is available on the site.
Mark: Maybe you can print a quick note about this correction for the people who downloaded the plan before the correction was made. Sorry for the inconvenience.
Matt Berger
Fine Woodworking
Another awesome installation Marc!
But.. Marc.. oh Marc… how could you let your dear old step dad stand there sucking up all that MDF dust while you wore a full respirator?? Poor poor step dad.. :-)
Paul Comi-
I actually found the 4×6 to be fine for most projects. I went to 4×6 for two reason: because I could and because I usually have other crap on the table. I just needed more room to accomidate the crap and the projects. :) I think you will be satisfied with a 4×4 on most projects.
This podcast was awesome! I laughed out loud because it reminded me so much of my first trip to the lumberyard. Hilarious and informative at the same time.
Well done, Marc!
Regards,
Mike
“Northern Wood”
I can’t say enough good things about Festool. I have had my tools for a little over three years now (have at least one tool from every category except the domino) and I’m very happy with every piece that I own.
I think in one of your recent video podcasts you were using a router that was not black and green. One of the things that I’ve been worried about with using a router is the amount of dust that a router produces. Could you compare the Festool routers to other manufacturers as far as dust collection is concerned?
So now all you need to do is take some of that Festool knowledge, share it with us, and give us an opportunity to win some Free Festool Schwag (that has a nice ring to it!).
Hey Wilbur. Most routers these days have dust collection attachments. Most work reasonably well. On some models, its pretty clear that the dust collection was an afterthought and as a result using the attachment can be a bit clunky. But they will all collect some dust. I cant say exactly how much since I have had the opportunity to throughly test more than a few different models, including the DeWalt plunge router and the Festool routers. And the Festool was by far the best in terms of dust collection that doesnt make your life miserable. If you want to email me, I would be happy to give you more details about the Festool. But remember that dust collection on routers always comes at a cost. That cost may be visibility or the hose being in the wrong spot. Either way it is a compromise. Finding the brand that is the least inconvenient is the key.
Some free Festool schwag would indeed be great. Who knows what the future holds.
You know, I’ve never really looked past the sticker shock of festool tools. But I notice that (naturally) every contractor here in Germany uses them almost exclusively. Makes me wonder how much cheaper I can pick them up here.
The only problem is that they will be 220V/50Hz models. But maybe I should grab every cordless Festool tool I can justify while I’m here. hmmmm….
Scott, Last year when I was in Germany(my wife is German), I went to a Festool dealer. The prices are about the same and then, yes, you would end up w/ a tool that is not functional in the US electrical world.
Vic,
Thanks for the heads-up. Saves me the time and trouble. Though it is still tempting to bring back a few “souveniers.” :)
I am refinish a wood garage door that the original finish has deteriorated in some areas, but not others. I used a finishing sander to remove the discolored wood and finish as well as to taper out the edge. I thinned the helmsman spar urethane about 20% on the first coat, and used it straight for two more coats. The areas where I sanded have a darker appearance than the unsanded areas, even though it is the same varnish being used and it occurs not only on the exposed wood but the areas that I sanded the finish off of (that had not been damaged), just in order to be able to feather the new finish in easier. I don’t understand why reapplying the same finish to wood that was originally only sanded, with no other sealer or finish, has caused this difference in color to appear. Is it possible that it will lighten up to match the other finish as it dries, or that the mineral spirits thinning caused my finish to penetrate differently?
Marc,
Just reviewed this podcast to see the detail of the wall racks for the clamp storage. I need to build some and I like ypur simplicity. What dimensions did you use for the Bessey rack? It looks like 3/4″ plywood on top and botom.
On the other rack with the 2×2’s and poplar – are the horizontal boards 1×4’s spaced off the 2×2’s? That’s what it looks like in the video.
I do really enjoy your videos and check for them weekly – keep up the good work.
Thanks,
Louis
Hi Marc,
As a beginning amateur woodworker, I’m in deep-learn mode, and I feel so lucky to have found such a generous online teacher. You rock!
I’m the guy with the incredible disappearing garage workshop :) All my tools stow in cabinets, and my workbench is my assembly table and it rolls into the corner at the end of the session. The laminated particle board top of my workbench was sagging in the middle. So I built your torsion box this weekend. Your excellent instructions and video gave me the confidence to try it! I shrunk the plan a bit to 24×48, 2 1/2″ inserts and 7 1/2″ internal box grid, 3/4″ MDF plus 1/4 hardboard top.
I’ve got a few questions for you.
1. I haven’t yet attached a bottom to the box – can I just use 1/4 hardboard to hold it all together, or do I really need the 1/2″ MDF for strength. Trying to slim it down a bit in weight and thickness!
2. I don’t have all the tools I want yet- no brad nailer or hot glue, but I do have a nice freud 8″ dado set. So instead of cutting individual pieces inside the box, I made a 7.5″ box joint jig, and cut 1.25″ dados across full-length inserts so that it all fit together with just glue, no brads. Got the idea here.
It worked pretty well, but I may have cut the dados a bit too tight, and while it worked ok in the dry fit- it was a bit tight during the glue-up, and i had some minor high spots. I planed as well as i could, but the final result was that the table turned out to be not quite dead flat. Could’ve also been less than perfect shimming, or the slightly bowed sheet of MDF didn’t want to settle, or just my inexperience. So my next question is, how flat is good enough? :) Using a long straightedge, it appears to drop about 1/32″ across the 24, and about 1/16″ across the 48 (or a bit more). I could conceivably pull out the screws and try your router-sled approach to flatten up the MDF? Might be an interesting effort. Or do you think I’d just screw it up worse?
3. I’m thinking of trying some more skill-building here and miter the corners of the 4 hardwood sides, rather than butt-joining them. I haven’t been too successful in previous attempts with perfect mitered corners. Hard to get the lengths just right, etc. Any advice?
4. Do you have any suggestions for how to mount a vice to the side of this 4″ top? I have a little wilton that sat flush with my old 2″ top but this new beast is twice as thick!
Thanks again for all your great help!
-John
Hey Rick. Its really tough to say. Since we are talking about weathered wood that has been previously finished, and the finish was damaged, there are a quite a few variables at play. One thing I know though is that once you sand off a finish and refinish it, the wood almost never stains or finishes to the exact same color. At least part of the reason is the fact the sanding can actually drive some of the finish into the grain.
So it is possible that the color will even out over time, but I wouldn’t hold my breath. Just keep in mind that poly finishes are usually not the best finishes for the type of repair you did. The repair is nearly impossible to hide (as you can see). In many cases its necessary to remove finish from the entire surface in order to achieve an even appearance and a smooth finish. So at this point, you may just need to give it time. But if it really bugs you, you may need to refinish the whole door.
I might also suggest trying a higher quality spar urethane that will last alot longer than the Helmsmans. One that I recommend is Epifanes.
You said you prefer Epifanes finishes for exterior doors. Which specfic one was it. And how many mL will it take to do a door?
Dean
This is the one I like:
http://www.jamestowndistributo......do?pid=92
And a 500mL can should cover a door easily….maybe two depending on how thick you go with the finish.
Hey John.
Glad you are enjoying the podcasts!
1- I do feel its necessary to go with at least 1/2″ material. I suppose you could use something thinner but I cant imagine the long term results being too good. Not to mention, if you ever clamp something to the table, you could easily punch through it. That would be a shame. :)
2- That level of error doesnt sound too bad. Its a good idea to memorize the tables flaws, so that you can decide where to place things on the table. For things like chairs, you want to make sure the legs are perfect, so make sure you find a nice flat area, and keep it in mind in the future. So what Im saying is that the table doesnt need to be perfectly dead flat in all areas. But you should get to know the table so that you can predict for yourself how much that error will effect your work. And no I dont think it would be worth all the effort to do the router sled method.
3- This is generally not the best project to test your skills in this area. The primary reason is that you might not have perfect right angles at your corners. The assembly table really isnt defendant on perfect corners so they might be a little off. If they are, your miters will cause you much headache. So maybe practice them on another project and go for the butt joints on this one. Of course this is just my advice so obviously feel free to do the miters, but dont blame yourself if they dont come out perfect.
4- The only way I know of to get a vice on there is to make the table thinner or get a bigger vice. :) No tricks that I know of to get a small vice on a thick table.
Good luck!
Hey Louis. You are right on both accounts. They smaller rack is just 1×3’s over 2×2 strips. The Bessey racks are just 3/4″ ply screwed to a 2×4. Pretty straightforward. Let me know if you need any more info.
Marc
Keep up the great work. I just recently found you and am still exploring your site.
Hi Ross & Marc,
I’m just considering the same issue. I’m not 100% sure of my block-planing skills…
I’m thinking that the hardboard top’s corners and edges are probably pretty safe from dings, due to the hardwood edging.
So when it comes time to replace the top, if its edges look clean, you could unscrew the old top, cut a new top slightly oversize, screw the new one right onto the old top (on the floor or some old ply), and then run your flush trim bit around it, using the old piece as the template? (Then use the same holes in the new piece to screw it onto your assembly table)
Just a thought…
-John
The mark of someone who knows what they are doing is the ease in which they make the project seem. This you do in spades! Thanks for taking the time to do this website and more specifically this project. As a beginning woodworker, it’s the efforts of folks like yourself that don’t mind sharing the “secrets” that make the learning curve go that much faster. Thanks again.
Tim
Hi All,
I’m been going back and forth between buying a Jet DC-650 dust collector or a large shop vac. I have the Ridgid TS3650 contractor table saw which comes with a 4″ dust collection port, a small Ryobi router table and some basic small power tools (router, sander, etc…). I figured I would buy the dust collector thinking that it would work with all my tools and I would be ready for when I buy the other stationary tools. My question is: If I buy the dust collector, do I still need to buy the shop vac for the smaller tools? If I buy the shop vac alone will it be sufficient for my table saw?
Jorge
I have to point out a possible design flaw in your top. The whole point was to make the top hard board replaceable right? The oak sides sit flush to the hard board and so since you glued those on and doweled over the screw holes, how do you get the hard board out to replace it? Also as you mention in a previous post that you don’t know whether or not the table top is 90 degree or not. Trying to fit a piece in later could cause some headaches. Is this correct or how did you plan on dealing with that?
I do like the hard board top though I work with that material all the time at work but never would have considered it for a work surface. After seeing that idea I think you could take it to the extreme and get yourself a 3/16 phenolic sheet (I don’t think you could 1/8 because it would be to brittle). It is much like hard board except like about 10 times more dense. The stuff I used to work with had a nice melamine finish on it as well. Would probably would never need to replace the top than.
As a note they do make bags for the shop vacs that filter pretty small particles. I think they usually call them Drywall filter bags. I’ve been using them for a while now and they work pretty well.
Hey Tim. The hardboard top will not be difficult to remove. Its just sitting on top of the table so the removal can be done by simply prying it up. Now when it comes time to drop the new top in, that shouldnt be too difficult. Although I didnt go through any great efforts to ensure that the table was perfectly square, it is definitely in the ballpark. So cutting a new piece shouldn’t be too challenging of a task. Aside from that, and I dont know why I didnt think of this in my other post, you have an exact-fitting sample already in your hands. The old top is a perfect template for the new one. So either figure out a way to flush trim it, or simply trace around the perimeter with a pencil and cut with a jig saw or circular saw. Piece of cake. :)
Your phenolic idea is a good one. Although there is no surface in my shop that lasts forever. After several years of glue, stain, and finish abuse, that top is gonna look like poo. So as far as Im concerned, the top is always sacrificial. And the cheapest material wins.
Take care.
Our friends at the Taunton Press (Fine Homebuilding this time) have recently written an article/review on “Tool Triggered Shop Vacs”. It compared five machines with regard to power, filtration/dust collection, noise, mobility and ease of dumping/cleaning. The Bosch, Milwaukee, and PC scored well, but the Fein Turbo II got the “Author’s best value choice” and the Festool Cleantec 33 got the “Author’s best overall choice”. It also mentions an “Alto/Wap Attix” vacuum, (as did a FWW article did a few years back) but at $825, it’s a little too rich for most people’s taste.
Hi everyone,
In addition to hooking the tool up to a vacuum, I can recommend placing the end of a 4″ dust collector hose within 1-2′ of the sander (or whatever you are doing). A shop vac would not work this way: There is not enough air flow, but a dust collector works great. It even works with a miter saw if you place the hose right up behind the saw. I can usually “smell” the saw dust in the air due to allergies, and with this method there is none. And if you have sunlight, you get the pleasure of seeing the dust move into the hose like if it was magnetically charged.
Mattias
I have found for my movable tools, the shop vac works great. But an addition to the vac (in between the vac and the tool) i use an Oneida Dust Deputy. This thing is so great, i wonder why i never bought one sooner. It uses nothing mechanical (no filters, motors, etc). To separate dusty air before entering the vacuum itself. They claim 99% efficient. I do NOT dispute that claim. I have used 3000 grit sandpaper (dry) for bar tops. And no a word of a lie it prevented every spec of this micro dust from hitting my shop vac filter. I use it for portable thickness planer, slider, and tablesaw with FANTASTIC RESULTS.
They can be found on Oneida-air.com (or just google it). There are gimmicks that claim to do the same thing, but i would be cautious towards those.
lates
P.S. I used have to spend like $20.00 every three months ($60 a year) for new filters for my vacuum, but now i spend only $20 a year. This device will easily pay for itself very quickly! And since there is nothing to EVER fail on the dust deputy (absolutely NO moving parts), it will outlive me guaranteed!!!…
Hey Jorge. To answer your questions, a shop vac would not be adequate for the tablesaw. And if you buy a dust collector, I would indeed advise getting a shop vac or some other dust extraction system for the smaller tools. Although technically, you could get away with using the dust collector for a while, especially at close range. But you might simply wind up air starving the dust collector. So really, this is one of those times I whole heartedly recommend both.
Now that dust deputy sounds kind of interesting. I haven’t really looked into it but I will check it out.
I recommend the Fein vacuum systems (spring for the one that you can plug your tool into and the vacuum comes on when you fire up the tool and runs a few seconds after you shut the tool off). I am building a kayak and use it on my orbital sander and it is great on the biscuit joiner when building shelves. Very quiet-lots of power-worth the cost-haven’t clogged it yet.
LOL! Yea didn’t think about using the old one as template!
I may be in left field on this, but in reference to Ross’s question about fitting a new top..It seems the you could again cut the new top slightly oversized and flush trim to the old top for a perfect fit.
I just checked out Clear Vue Cyclones to get the model number for their smallest cyclone for use with a Shop-Vac. It’s the Mini CV06. An option for the Oneida if you want. Looks like they’ve got a June sale going on too!
Alex
The dust collection robert was asking about can be done with a dust deputy for 200 dollars from oneida. The deputy is a mini cyclone that hooks up to your shop vac and into a five gallon bucket. I don’t have one personaly, but I am thinking of buying one for my buddy who is a poor graduate student with a small shop. He complains of the same problems as robert and I mentioned this to him. THIS IS MADE BY ONEIDA
Marc, Dead on answer to his question. Festool would also have been my choice.
Hey… I listened to Woodtalk Episode 10 an doyu mentioned a grit compariosn… Here is a great article about grit comparison… I got it in my RSS feed from Popular Woodworking…
http://blogs.popularwoodworkin.....ff033.aspx
Hi Marc,
First… Great Podcast.. I should say great podcasts, including Woodtalk online as well..
So was wondering if using Resin impregnated honeycombs such as http://www.vacupress.com/accessories.htm#honeycomb
Would these be suitable? Thinkin the 3/4″ and I’m asking this because yes I’m lazy!
Hey Mike. I suppose that could work. At only 3/4″, you cant make a very big table though. Interesting product.
Marc
Hello again Marc,
I found an article from Fine Woodworking magazine with the title
“Inside Sharpening Stones” by Garrett Hack with the following
information:
Diamond Plates
– Extra-coarse – 220 grit
– Coarse – 325 grit
– Fine – 600 grit
– Extra-fine – 1200 grit
Take care,
I happen to have both the Fein Turbo II and the Festool CT22. Both are great machines but there are a few differences:
The Fein has an advantage because you don’t have to use disposable bags like the Festool does which are rather costly. Both have great suction, but Festool has an antistatic hose. At first I thought it was no big deal but it really works. After some use the Feins hose collects all kinds of dust around the outside of the hose, while the Festool doesn’t. The Festool is also more stable and less likely to fall over. The Fein cost about 75 dollars less. The Festool has a more flexible nozzle and seems to adapt to more types of tools than the Fein does.
If I had to choose between the two of them, I would choose the Festool. Of course, it doesn’t hurt that it matches a vast majority of my power tools.
Wondering if it is possible to put the entire table on wheels to make it mobile, but keep the flatness. Thinking of future construction where having an area the size of the table dedicated only for assembly could lead to space issues. Probably wouldn’t have as much machinery, etc in it as yours, but would still like to have drawer and cabinet space in the carcass.
I see no major problems with wheels. Just make sure they can handle the weight.
Good luck!
Having spent fourteen years rebuilding a 40’ cruiser that was completely made from mahogany with teak accents, I, and my bank account, can attest to the fact that teak especially is not an easy wood to finish. The mahogany requires a base coat made from 50% varnish and 50% thinner. Additional coats are laid on 90% varnish and 10% thinner. The teak, on the other hand, required a thorough wipe-down with acetone just before finishing with the first coat being the 50/50 formula, the second 60% varnish and 40% thinner, the third 70% varnish and 30% thinner, and so on until the final coats are at the 90/10. I learned not to sand between the first three coats but instead, just scuff them up with either steel wool (bronze wool if your refinishing something in a moist environment), or a green scuff pad. Filling the grain with a gel works great on the mahogany to cut down on the number of coats required, but is an absolute disaster on the teak, as it lifts within weeks.
Hi again Marc,
I used #8 3/4″ brass wood screws to attach the hardboard to my 3/4″ MDF top.
I’ve now learned just how bad MDF holds screws! In some places, the screw went in loose on the first try (won’t tighten to a stop- just starts turning in place). Bummer!
Any suggestions?
Thanks,
John
Hey John. I probably should have mentioned that in the video. As soon as the screws are below the surface, you should stop turning.
The good thing is you really dont need much holding strength for the hardboard. Just something to hold it from flying away basically. :)
So honestly, my suggestion would be to leave the stripped ones alone and just add a few more. When you replace the top, just yank those puppies out of there, fill the hole, and you will be good to go. But technically you could just throw the hardboard on and not worry about screws at all. I just like to screw mine down for extra security.
Marc
Didn’t seem to post last try…..
It could help if you start at the extremes of the dovetail (right and left), then do a light scoring cut across the face, then plow out the rest of the middle. Check the bit for sharpness too.
Hey Lord. Thanks for bringing my attention to the fact that I completely forgot that the word dovetail was in his post. lol. oops.
You are exactly right. But it is hard to tell if he was talking about making the dovetails on a jig, or if he meant a sliding dovetail. Well just in case it was a jig, I would also recommend putting masking tape on the front and back of the piece where the cutting will take place, as this will reduce tearout significantly.
Spags,
Cut the dovetails by hand and you won’t have to worry about tearout! :)
Just tried the idea of putting tape on the piece prior to cutting dovetails with a jig.
Worked great. I was always having blow outs with the plywood. Had to adjust the set up a little to compensate for the added thichness.
What a pleasure to not have all that blowout!!
What type/brand of dado blade are you using?
Dang, ask and you shall receive that was some great info on the veneers guys thanks!! In addition, I had a thought for the person with the cutlist issue. I was thinking they might be able to use sketch up to help them solve their sheet good cutting issues:)
Thanks again,
Ron
Hi Everyone!
It is always difficult to decide on something which we are not an expert on. There are many products offered in the market today and we cannot decide on which is the most appropriate for our own use.
Robert, I suggest you check us at our website. We offer a lot of information on dust collection systems. The people involve in our website are experts on this field. I hope we can help you out and shed some enlighten to your situation.
Marc,
You mentioned in Episode 12 of WoodTalkOnline that you have a low-end Delta scrollsaw. (Sounds like the one I have.) I was a bit surprised, because for a long while now I have been coveting the definitely higher-end scroll saw in the banner image on TheWoodWhisperer home page. Is that red machine a Hegner? Was the picture taken in your old shop, or perhaps in David Marks’ studio?
Just curious,
Kerry
The Ryobi Oscillating Spindle Sander is alive and well at Harbor Freight.
http://www.harborfreight.com/c.....mber=95088
$99 Bucks.
In your podcast you mention sealing furniture against rot by epoxying the feet. From my wood boat experience, this is not a good idea. Unless the epoxy is sealed to the wood, i.e.: caulked around its edges, moisture is allowed under the epoxy and will lift it from the wood over time. Regular epoxy does not seep into the wood, but instead, it sits on the surface. It is rare that epoxy will fall off, but instead, will just lift enough to allow the moisture to gather then dry in a never-ending cycle. Wood can live forever if it is kept wet, but the cycle of wetting and drying is what causes the wood to rot. The best prevention is a complete coat of good spar varnish as it will expand and contract with the wood as it does not dry as hard as regular varnish. If you must epoxy, a product like S1 Epoxy Sealer by Industrial Formulators is the way to go. It is like water, seeps into the cells of the wood, and maintains a bond over its lifespan. It, like varnish, has to be renewed every so often, depending on the item’s use. If you really want to protect the wood, coat the entire piece with a couple of coats of S1 Sealer, give it a good sanding with 220 once its dried, then give it three coats of a good quality spar varnish. Renew the varnish every other year or so and the piece will last forever. If the piece needs to be stained, and your going to use epoxy, you have to stain it with an alcohol-based stain because the epoxy won’t stick to other types.
Hi from the wood mimer ie i’m just getting back into it. thanks for your inspiration
Kerry,
I think Marc mentioned that the banner picture was indeed taken in David Marks shop.
I think my favorite part is the band-aid he has on his finger. I’m always drawn to it. It gives it a real authentic woodworker look to it. :-)
-Brian
Extremely well put…..if you open a dozen wood mags. you’ll get a half dozen Top Buys. Most of these picks are based half and half on experienced statistics and collected opinions. But warning flags should be noted if more than a half dozen rate something as crap-in-a-box.
he absolutely correct! if need to spray, then spray, like me, im a sprayer beleiver, but you gotta know what ya doin. A tip , use min spirits mixed with naptha for your thinner blend, this is to thin and be a delivery solvent for coating. HVLP, Conventional, ok, no airless!!! !st two u can control air atomization, by feel. forget reccomendations by mfg!!! Im an old coatings guy from the industrial side, not local joe blo painters, which normally give u same info, cause they dont know!!! But thin n spray, have fun!!!
WOO HOO! We’ve gone widescreen!
Nice vid, Spags (both of you)
Cheers,
Schwigs
You skipped the tricky part. How did you determine exactly where to place your steps, and how long they’d need to be at that given height?
Great podcast as always, the step stool looks great. Notice how stepstool rhymes with festool ?
Very well done…..a small suggestion, to help the audience, when you draw up plans on a layout scrap board use a sharpie with a slight bunt tip.
I would weight test it for you, it looks very sturdy.
Hey Mark. I basically cut the step to approximate length and dropped it into the pre-assembly and pushed it upwards until it locked into place. Then I transferred the centerline of the step to the sides. That gives me the line for my mortises in the sides.
And Lord, you are discovering the disadvantage of my “new” podcasting method. For the time being, things are not going to be planned out as well as I would like. So although using a sharpie for the lines of the drawing would have made it much more visible for the viewer, it would have ruined the drawing for me. lol. I use a 5mm pencil on my drawings so that I can be as accurate as possible. With the luxury of time, there are many things I would have done differently with this particular episode.
I’ve been building up my shop for the last couple of months and I recently spent hours in Woodcraft, Rockler, and Sumner Woodworking store (in Washington state). I feel the same way, that no one “brand” is superior to the rest because all the major brands do exceptionally well with some of their products and so-so with their other products.
I’m quite impressed with Steel City though. I learned (unconfirmed) that the company was created by a bunch of woodworking old timers with the intent of creating machines specifically designed for fine woodworkers. I was shown some features in their machines that is evident that a whole lot of thought and experience went into their designs. They don’t compromise for cost buy using cheaper material either.
Festool also greatly impresses me.
For me cost is a major factor so my method is to think of what I’ll be using a machine for and finding the least expensive machine that will do what I need it to do. It’s like not buying a $1,000 color copier with all the pretty bells and whistles when I only need to make black and white copies. Instead I buy the $200 black and white copier.
As you’ve probably guessed, I don’t own any machines from Steel City or Festool, but one day when I win the lottery…..
Spagnuolos, great video! You shouldn’t sweat not being able to have things with the podcast as planned out as you would like to. The WhispererHeads (sort of like Deadheads,lol) are going to enjoy it even if its not refined to absolute podcast perfection.
Keep up the great work! The step stool turned out nicely.
A question for you… Did you leave the walnut nosing accents ‘as is’, or did you round over the edge? I ask because to me the nosing looked like it would hurt the bottom of your foot if you used the step stool barefoot.
Not trying to be critical, just curious.
Thanks,
Ryan
Who needs planning – this was a great example of jumping in and building something. I liked the fast paced nature of the ‘cast, from start to finish. You didn’t bother with milling the lumber on screen, or all the details. It was great to see it from start to finish.
You are totally right about the steps Ryan. But I did give them a nice roundover. So now its just a nice bump that gives you a better grip on the step. But they were sand after the glueup. I’ll post a picture later since I now have a few coats of lacquer on it.
Hey Skee. I thought it felt fast paced too, until I looked at the total time. lol. Not sure how I ate up 30 minutes.
great job you guys :)
Great Video!! What other ideals do you have for the show? If your looking for more ideals have a look here. http://www.makezine.com/blog/a.....makes.html The first puzzle (with all the triangles) is held together with little festool like pins. What makes it a puzzle is that you have to push in all 3 pieces in the corners together at the same time. Here is the video. You have to watch or fastforward to the end to see the mercabut (name of puzzle). http://www.makezine.com/blog/a.....ast/2.html Again great video.
Hi, M & N You two did a great job on the podcast. It is a good piece for what you are doing with it. While it is simple it shows how that festool will make it quicker and easier. Nice job. Dean Knight
Mark
In your video you expressed slight concern about the strength of the domino tenon. I think the concern should be with the strength of the wood grain of the step that surrounds it. There is quite a bit of torque or leverage on the end grain of the step that could cause it to split.
Think of it this way. How would you build this using conventional methods? Probably insert the end of the step into a dado in the stringer which would support the step along its entire width. I know which I would rather trust my 220 lb. carcass on.
To maintain your design of the through tenon look you could add two additional non-through tenons to each side of the step. This would double the weight bearing surface plus just think of the “demo” factor, you get to show how easy it is to adjust the depth of cut with the flip of your finger.
Great fun guys..loved seeing the festool team of
products in action..German engineering rocks.
You two make a great comedy pair.
I’ll see you in Vegas!
Hey guys!
To cap this mail: GOOD IDEA! Create an “exchange/listing board” on your web site. Allow readers and listeners to post their used/new equipment, finished crafts and furniture, and provide links to their eBay auctions. You could… no, no you should charge a small fee for each entry. This would allow you to generate more revenue from the web site. It could be a “Classifieds” section of your web site. Heck, you could also have your sponsors list stuff at “special prices” also.
My original mail:
Your show is great! I am a business analyst in my professional life so, during the work day I spend most of my time “changing the world from my corner office”. Your show has given me a great opportunity to listen/learn “shop” while I work. I am a loyal listener and have watched and listened to most episodes multiple times – of both Matt’s and Marc’s. I have also turned many of my co-workers to you show – they have become loyal listeners as well.
I just wanted to drop a line on a good idea. This idea comes from my situation and one of your [Marc’s] shows – My wife restricted how much I could spend on woodworking material and equipment. For several months it was a choice between, wood or equipment. If I get the wood I had limited equipment, if I get the equipment all I have is Pine to work with. Your show on “if I had $1000” really got me asking… how can I get a grand. I decided to go through my storage room and garage. After all was said and done with, I had about 80 items to list on eBay. I sold everything and raised almost $2,000!
Resulting from this good idea, I now have every imaginable piece of equipment, accessory, chemicals, and a very large collection of exotic hardwoods. (It does help that I have a Harbor Freight down the street!)
So, resulting from my experience I have two suggestions. Number one, for those of your listeners – a couple of listings on eBay and you can get the tools you need. Number two, Mark and Matt, you guys should create an exchange board on you web pages; allowing users to list their used/new equipment for a small fee. (This would be a good fund raiser to help support all of the wonderful resources you give us!)
Thanks again,
Andrew K
Hey Marc, nice to see you in action again. FWIW I don’t think you need to make apologies to any of us for the work you do on the podcasts. I always pick up a pointer or two from the shows. (this time it was the tape trick).
BTW loved seeing the outtakes, have you considered a compilation pod cast of some of the others?
Yo,
Glad to see you are getting some well deserved perks for your hard work. I hope you don’t go the way of Norm, I love his shows but the guy has more tools that do everything taking away from some more traditional ways of doing things or the use of tools that the average guy can afford. I too love the Festool line but man are they spendy!!! hopefully one day I can afford them becuase they look like a treat to use!!!
Good luck at the show…
John
Shawn, I can’t remember who gave this advise, but I think it wise. “Find the best machine that your money can buy, then save a little longer and get the one that’s just better”. Over my life I have, almost 95% of the time, regretted buying something I felt was just O.K., but affordable. It pays to save and buy what you really want first. That way you don’t by one machine for the price of two.
Mark and Nicole, not only do I think you should NOT have done anything different with this last episode, I think you should do more of these types of videos from time to time (including the outtakes). It was infomative and completely enjoyable. It also helps in keeping your content from growing stale. Great stuff.
Excellent idea Andrew. That gives me a lot to think about.
Yea I have to agree with Vic. I also went with a more affordable to than regretted later not waiting and getting the better one.
Great episode. This is how it’s supposed to be, approachable and FUN. A small request, I know this was for the festool booth, but if you can help it, don’t leave us non-festool toting brethren behind in your ‘normal’ episodes to come.
I’ll add another vote for appending the outtakes to the end of subsequent episodes. If you make a compilation, please include the footage where you almost tripped on Nicole’s garage sale stuff — that was classic.
test
When you get to your last armoire and have some time to spare, can you do a quick video like this on how you did those louvered doors?
Marc,
I have to agree with the others…the “natural” flow of Episode 20 was the most real, perhaps since Episode 2. Not that the other videos are substandard, far from it. You have a teaching gift and we all learn something with each podcast. But in this one, we got to see you, unedited and unscripted, as it were, working in your raw natural state. I probably learned more from this video than from the others because I felt like I was in the shop with you.
Erik
WhispererHeads????
Hey Tim. I actually didnt make the doors. They were supplied by the customer. Thanks for the comments everyone concerning the approach of episode 20.
When talking about big lines on the plans vs. small lines. I was thinking this is why Norm always has a test build of a piece, before filming and showing the step by step?
Enjoying the shows, keep up the good work.
I agree with Vic and Tim, after buying a couple of budget tools that never gave me what I wanted I discovered Festool (just plane Festo back then). I decided to bite the bullet and bought a sander. I have never looked back, I now have 3 sanders, 2 routers, a jigsaw and a shop vac ( I put the vac off for some time as they are pricey but I got one this April and I should have got one ages ago). They are pricy but that just means more haggle room to get a better price.
Here is my 2 cents Shawn,While I don’t disagree with the notion that you will never be dissappointed buying the best that you can afford, It’s not necessary to get the most expensive, I have Grizzly tablesaw and horizonal boreing machine, Jet bandsaw, General 15″ planner.(so much for matching colors) Mark’s advice is good read the reviews. There are alot of good machines out there by different manufactures.
My advice is to learn the most you can, I have seen some very fine pieces of furniture come out of some very basic shops.
Jim
Hey Marc, Pretty slick stepstool. Nothing like giving yourself a bit of a challenge! All those angles, ouch.
I would have liked to have seen the glue up. I think that was probably a bit of a hair-raising time with all those odd angles to go together, and yet still not wanting squeeze out if at all possible. In your dry fit you tapped the dominos into the sides first. How did you do it for real? I would have put the glue in the steps first and tapped the dominos home, then wiped glue into the holes int he sides and popped them into place, and probably had some squeeze out on the outside.
Oh, and as for festool making tenons in other woods… good idea, but I still bet that on the finished stool they stand out. Aren’t the cut ends of the tenons mostly end grain, which will show darker than the side grain that they penetrate.
Kudos to Nicole as well, for patiently putting up with you dragging her in front of the camera for no good reason… ;-)
best,
…art
Hey Art. The reason I never showed the glue-up is because I haven’t done it yet. This is a sample for the show and I want to be able to to take it apart. But my approach would have been very similar to yours. I might even go as far as milling up some special cauls that would help apply pressure on the angles.
These exposed tenons do stand out. But it would be nice to have the color options.
I will make sure Nicole receives your kudos. :) Thanks art.
Well I was wondering about that (whether you were taking it to the show as a sample)… but up above you mentioned that you’ve already put some lacquer on it, so it seemed safe to assume it was finished.
nah. just finished to make it a bit more durable for handling.
All the above are excellent thoughts — no argument. Whatever the case, if it comes down to waiting a while longer to save up versus buying cheap now — WAIT.
In terms of specifics, I too love my Festools. I’ll never own a BMW car but I sort of think of these as my BMW tools. Not perfect (I don’t much care for their jigsaw and tend to use my Bosch more) but overall they are batting about a 975. My DeWalt impact drivers remain the most used tools in the shop and they apparently don’t ever wear out. I, too, love Powermatic stationary tools but like my Delta drill press better than the Yellow one.
So as you can see from all these replies, there is no one answer to your question; but, you are on the right track – asking questions and looking around. Good luck.
Wow, photoshop is amazing! It can even make you look good!
Norm may have his flannels but you got the T-shirt thing goin’ on. It’s how you roll, after all…
BTW – autograph as many pics as you like, but don’t even mention selling out to the networks!
let’s see how long you last wearing plaid in Arizona!
Nice! Plaid is you!
Now you hav to learn to say
bwed and butta.
In the New England tradintion of course!
HAHAHAHA. ILMAO. Norm Spagnuolo! Ready for prime time. I love it!!!!!
Nicole,
How you dare you disrespect Norm. Shame on you.
~Joe
P.S. Love your site and your videos, keep them coming
Kinda eerie.
Not ANOTHER one!!!! I hope you hold yourself higher than that! Does that mean you will hire out your work when you make a cabriole leg too?
haha thats cool
Hey where are the glasses?? :)
Nicely done, and I love who you “borrowed” his signature as well! Excellent!
Maybe if you flip the order left to right, this could be a before and after kind of thing – “What happens after a lifetime of woodworking.” You’re just seeing your future!!
IT would be very helpful if some of the wood webs had some info on refinishing guitars. I don’t mean the coating of paint and lacqer, but having to sand down a spruce or mahogony finish due to 60 years of pick abuse and heavy lacquer cracking. I just finished sanding down a Kay Kraft from the 1930’s, but the trick is to try to match up the subtle deep flaming from the original..having the center area lighter and the edges going pretty dark. Usually a dark mahogony. Uneven staining is alive and well in this situation, but deep dark staining is also needed, which may not work if the wood is pretreated for uneven staining. Right now I’m looking at some raised grain after staining, and some uneveness..wondering if I can combine some steel wool work to remove just some uneveness and more stain around the edge…also, that deep glow from lacquer coating….most guys aren’t set up at home for spraying, but tung oil layers aftere a single linseed coating have a great look, but don’t expect the magic till after the 6th or 7th coating….
Oh, and it was great fun spilling a whole can of deep mahogony onto the kitchen floor right at the end…totally exhausted, then two more hours of cleaning, ruining mops, then half naked scrubbing and sanding walls and floor before the girls got home. No skin left to play the damn thing with.
so you are going to start wearing flannel shirts in Arizona !
great job, Nicole
No worries… You don’t have to be a good looking guy to be a successful woodworker on PBS. Norm has proven that… :o)
I’m thinking you should stick with the soul patch . . . the full beard makes you look a bit too respectable.
who dat with Marc?
That was great!
This is probably the bset video you have done! Like Eric says, it was like we were there with you.
Here is the question: Did you step on it yet? It is a beautiful piece, but it is one of those like a lidded box that wants to be touched – this wants to be stepped on!
Thanks for all you and Nicole have done -I think it is simply awesome that she supports you in the shop and “Living your dream!”
Hank Merkle
the most disturbing thing I’m probably going to view all day……not that I ever wondered what a clone of Norm would be like, but if I did, now I’d know!!!
HA HA HA Lol!!!! That is great!
Bring on that Brad Nailer!!
This week on “This Old Podcast”…
He looks alot like Al from Tooltime and the host of Family Fued whichever gets your fancy.
Nicole good job with the photoshop but ” Be sure to read, understand, and follow all the safety rules that come with your photo tools nad you forgot these safety glasses on Marcs photo”
nice job Nicole
hey marc and nicole great podcast great project and in great time would like to build one myself keep them coming and I will keep watching, also the podcast made me want to go out to my shop and build something right away thanks for the inspiration. brad
I am really disappointed in you. Or Nicole.
One of you OBVIOUSLY forgot that there is no more important safety rule than to wear these, safety glasses. :-)
Nice work…
norm? not so much. thinking more of a roy underhill look would be the ticket.
Marc, gettin’ chubby man!
marc
The videos are very helpful. Really enjoy the time you take to illustrate all the details. I’m enjoying this on my iphone while away from home.
aint technology great!
You got the look, now you need to work on the Booston accent.
Good show, enjoy Vegas.
Hi Marc,
Hand tools??!?!?? You’re using hand tools?!?!!!?!?!
Just kidding. My real questions:
1. Other than just wanting to cover chisel techniques for the podcast, why not use a low angle block plane for cleaning up the edge of your step-stool step?
2. You mention using Norton 3x, which I love using, but then you mention 600 grit sandpaper for the last sanding before the final finish. Would this be wet/dry sandpaper, or some other brand? Norton doesn’t make a 600 grit sandpaper, to my knowledge — I think that Norton 3x goes up to 400.
Hey Wilbur. I know can you believe it?? Hand tools! lol
I definately could have use a block plane. But I really wanted to show everyone the chisel technique. Not to mention, there are times that I feel like I have more control when I use a chisel, as opposed to a block plane. Especially when it comes to end grain and tearout and just a little piece of trim. But in most cases, I imagine most people would have just used the plane.
The sandpaper I uses was just an automotive (gray or black) paper. Anything above 320 i usually go for the automotive stuff. Honestly I cant even remember the brand off hand. But I pick it up at the big box store.
great job once again, Marc. Lots of good info. This one was a real treat considering how busy you’ve been. Loved the intro!
That is one hell of a quality t-shirt. Balls Models…beautiful!
Good tips on the finishing and paring too… ;-D
Good show!
Ravioli hahahaha!
Keep Rockin;
I am always amazed what can be brought into the wood shop when the wife is out of town. Lets hope Nicole wont notice her stainless steel mixing bowls are missing :) Lets hope she doesn’t read these posts as well !
Thanks Marc for the awsome podcast, I am inspired to try the oil varnish finish on my next project (Plasma TV stand) to get a feel for the process and finish.
Yes…Keep the soft, fleshy, bloody bits away from the hard, sharp, pointy bits.
Take it from me….I know….(don’t’ ask) ;^D
Thanks, Marc, for the demonstration on paring. You’ve obviously got a very sharp chisel (”sharp enough to cut wood and draw blood”) . . . Do you have a honing guide that you’d recommend? I’ve been pondering the Veritas MK2. Thanks.
I want more bloopers!!!! Dang man those were great!!! Not to mention another great podcast:)
Considering I bought him the bowls Herman, I would say Marc should be fine :)
thems my bowls!!!
Windsorboy, I usually sharpen by hand but I picked up the Veritas MK2 and Im really looking forward to putting it to use.
Marc
Marc,
Great show as usual. We especially appreciate your covering the finishing techniques. They are often over looked by other woodworkers. Have a great trip and we hope to see you there.
Frank and Stephanie
Like your show, but you need to quit using Nicole’s t-shirts for finishing phase.
Keep up the good pods, ribbit ! I guess even frogs want to do woodworking.
I just got my Veritas Mk II and used it last weekend. It’s awesome! I already had their first gen(?) honing jig, and I’ll keep that for honing skews. The Mk II is virtually foolproof and it allows you to set the bevel angle precisely square and at the same angle every time you remove and replace a plane iron (should you need to do so). I haven’t tried it out on my chisels yet, but I expect a similar impression.
Another great Show!
Question(s): Correct me if I am wrong, but you used Seal-a-Cell for the entire finish. Do you ever use Arm-R-Seal; Use Seal-a-Cell and then Arm-R-Seal for the top coats? If you are just using Seal-a-Cell, what are its properties compared to using Arm-R-Seal?
Have a great time in Vegas, to paraphrase Floyd. “Wish I was There”…
Love the outtakes…another cool podcast. Wish I could check you out in Vegas…
Hey Kyle. The Arm-R-Seal is basically pure varnish with no oil added. This means you will build up a protective film finish faster. Using several coats of Seal-A-Cell alone gives me a light film for protection, without losing the natural close to the wood look.
Great podcast Marc! Did I hear someone say “ravioli”??? That was hysterical, I literally laughed out loud when I heard that :) Keep up the great work and fantastic sense of humor!
Enjoy Vegas!
lol yes. I just had to confess my love for ravioli. I feel better now that I got that off my chest. :)
I just built the box. As an alternate method to a block plane to remove high spots, I used a T-bar sander. This is a trick model aircraft builders use to even out all of the ribs on a wing before covering to get a uniform surface. I made a 24″ T-bar by butt-joining two pieces of MDF with glue. Then used spray contact cement to affix some 100 grit sandpaper to the flat surface. Sand the surface with this bar diagonally to the grid. The T bar spans 3 grid boxes or more taking out the high spots first and further flattening the surface.
Hey Mark,
I love the finish. I am thinking it may be good on my bookshelves. Can I use that stuff over an oil based stain without any problems?
Thanks,
Rob
Absolutely Rob. Will work perfectly.
about the mk2 honer
i suggest buying it…if you’re into really sharp, consistant tools….
couple hints from my experience
- keep stones dead flat when using it….since you cant really “use the whole stone” with the knife locked in the roller system, it can lead to subtle concave areas in stones. This can be frustrating when trying to sharpen a plane blade.
- if you keep a chart of all the angles and microbevels on your tools, its very easy to go back and rehone a micro bevel the next time, to the perfect angle.
anyone can sharpen by hand…but this jig gives you peace of mind and reliability, and your tools will have that textbook sharpness to them.
great episode marc…keep it up.
Shouldn’t you put your nosing ( now called edging) on first then make your angled cuts?
Admittedly it does show good use of chisels on end grain but may leave the newbie with the impression that the “sequence” is correct.
Bob
Well Mr. Bob. When you glue that trim piece at a 65 degree angle, it causes the front of the step to have a ridge. This ridge prevents the piece from sitting nice and flat since it props the front up when its upside down. And when you flip it over, the ridge would cause a problem for the Festool MFT guide. The guide needs to sit on a flat workpiece in order to work properly and safely. Now of course that bevel cut could be made on either the tablesaw, or the miter saw, but my mission was to make this project completely with Festool tools. And if I couldn’t do it with Festool stuff, then I needed to find another option. So thats what you saw in the video. I am sure if I had the luxury of time to ponder the situation, I could have come up with a “Festool” solution, but I had to get er done. So with the oversized trim glued on, I figured I would take a few minutes to pare it down. And in addition, I saw it as a great opportunity to display a hand tool technique (something I rarely have the opportunity to do).
I love using scrapers when theyre new and have that ‘factory hook’. But I could never get down the sharpening technique until I viewed this video. It’s like a light went off inside my head. So I sharpened every scraper I could find and now I’m in Scraper Paradise.
TYVM
That’s awesome for you guys! I can’t imagine meeting Norm and having him say, “I know who you are.” I would have said, “Can you shoot a brad in my arm so I know I’m not dreaming?!?” :-)
I’m stoked to hear your interview with David Marks. I just found out that he is coming to Minnesota this fall sponsered by our woodworking guild. YES!!!
And by the way, Marc, it’s cool that you feel that way about people like Norm, DM, and Scott Phillips. I hope you know that some of us feel the same way about you. Someday I can’t wait to say, “Honey… there he is! It’s Marc! And there’s Nicole! Oh, crap… look how long the autograph line is…” (And yes, I’m serious.)
Thanks for sharing that with us!
Oh… and about your comment “Paris Hilton with a handplane.” Don’t you have to be smarter than a handplane to use one??? :-)
Marc, You have just brilliantly summarized what I love about woodworking…there is no competition, there are no egos, everyone is truly interested in helping others learn and appreciate our craft. I hope that never changes.
Was the T-shirt you gave to Norm plaid?
Great that you got to meet and interact with all these guys who are such legends in popularizing woodworking.
I can say 100% this is the reason I love the wood whisperer, or more importantly Marc and Nicole (because they both make the wood whisperer what it is). I haven’t been lucky enough to meet them in person at the show. But every time I visit the chat room they are inviting and approachable (in a cyber kind of way). They don’t make us less experienced wood workers feel less experienced. Even though I grew up idolizing Norm too I could never imagine talking to him in a chat room about mortise and tenon joints and then asking what he’s having for dinner. Thanks Marc and Nicole for embracing the awesomeness of the internet!! And for being The Wood Whisperer…
Marc, that’s neat that you not only met but got to speak with them 1:1, I can’t fathom any comparison you’re making to Paris Hilton though. Every person you mentioned has made a CONTRIBUTION and have enriched the lives of thousands of us in ways that go beyond just fashioning things out of wood. Fathers like me after seeing a few episodes of David Marks or Norm end up getting off the couch, setting up a home shop, and spending more time with their kids in the enthusiasm that has been rediscovered in doing woodworking. Guys like me are rediscovering the joy that can be had working with one’s hands; although come to think of it I hear Paris is also quite skilled at “working wood” so maybe you do have a valid comparison there…
Paul,
Paris _does_ make a contribution to society. If it wasn’t for her, all those celebrity tabloid shows on E! would have nothing to talk about. :@)
I can remember being about 13 years old and going to the Garden state plaza mall in NJ with my Mom and sister and running into George McPhee. He was the enforcer for the NY Rangers in the early 80’s and my favorite player. I was so excited that the first thing out of my mouth was “HOLY S#!T”. My mom was not happy since cursing was a big NO NO, but I got to talk to him as well as getting an autograph. It was great (my mom excused me from a mouth full of soap).
The cool thing for you is that you are now on the other side of the fence. It is one thing to take pride in your work but it is another to go the extra mile by sharing your skills and inspiring up and coming woodworkers. I truly appreciate the hard work you and Nicole put into your work and would gladly stand in line to get an autograph and a picture. Keep up the good work…. And by the way, awhile back you left a comment on my Blog about a project I did (your cutting board) that truly made my day. Nicole has also left some great comments as well. It is great that we are in a community that allows us access to the people who we consider to be our superstars.
John
5 out of 4? …. hmmmm….I would have thought it would have been more….
great t-shirt and helpful ‘cast, I have been thru the same lumberyard experience…
Great episode, Marc… You are definitely a pro’s pro, but it is still nice for us novices to hear you say “so you don’t screw it up, like I just did…” I laughed out loud at that!
And thanks for showing us some cool hand tool techniques. Nice to see that mixed it with the power stuff from time to time.
The podcasts ROCK — please keep ‘em coming!
PLEASE keep the bloopers coming… I don’t want you to mess up (much), but man, those get me rolling. Love it!
you guys deserve all the good stuff you experienced last week! Like others above, I can see myself nudging my wife to say “hey, that’s Marc & Nicole from The WoodWhisperer!”. As I mentioned in one of your chatrooms, I saw David Marks at the AAW in Portland and said “hello” and mentioned your podcasts, He returned that he thought you were a “kick”. You’re a name too, and thanks for doing what you do, and letting us chat with you like regular people.
MikeB
Ok now that I have awoking from the Vegas dream… Not only did I too get to hobnob with Norm but he actually signed my Wood Whisperer t-shirt now how much better does that get, well except if maybe David Marks and a few others signed it but hey I don’t want to push my luck!! Looks like one of the next projects is a case to frame it:) I guess I better get Marc to sign before he’s booked for guest appeareances:) Don’t look in the mirror man cause you are quickly becoming one of those guys!
Marc, thanks for sharing your perspective and experiences. Just to echo what has already been said, you are certainly one of these guys who is someone we all can look up to. I have already been telling my students to reference your site and study your Podcasts. You truly are a pioneer in this area and I very much appreciate that. Thank you for all that you have done thus far and I look forward to your mentorship and our collegial relationship!
If you drive a few roofing nails through your little wood strips (pointy side up) you would minimize damage to the finish on the underside of the peice you are finishing..just something I do when Im in a hurry wich I always am afterall time is money….
great post, Marc–never lose that “fan’s perspective”…..it keeps us right there with you on all your adventures. Thx once again……
Since when do we give Spags crap in the chatroom? much?
Great stuff Marc – a very natural stream of Q&A.
do you have a dedicated finishing room? Can you share how it is set-up? Love your website – TXS
Boy do I wish I had a finishing room. At this point, my finishing room is the back of my shop. One day though, we plan on converting part of our back patio to a finishing room. And of course I will document the whole process.
I have to echo the sentiments of those above. I too got to meet the man that got me started into woodworking(Norm) and the dynamic duo team of Marc and Nicole that have actually renewed my spirit and have forced me to give up the excuses of too tired, not enough time in the day to do atleast something in my shop on a daily basis to relieve the stresses of day to day life.
My wife asked me after returning from the show on Day 1 whom I was more thrilled to meet, Norm or Marc. Without hesitation I answered her(honestly) Marc and Nicole. I told her the reason was that Norm is something safe/comforatable like an old sweater, where TWW is like a new video game where you never know what the next level is going to bring but you cant wait to get there. I know that I’ll never get an invite to the Batcave known as the The New Yankee Workshop, but I feel that somehow I get an invitation to marcs shop on a daily basis for a cup of coffee and chat about bits/blades, finishises and techniques…(even though I know I’ll never get a direct invite to Marc’s shop as the only other human’s I’ve seen there are his stepdad, nicole and the UPS guy), that’s ok, I know I’ll always be welcome through the online feed….
This was a cool way to get the ustream people over to the site. And if you could push up the patio to finishing room project, that’d be great…save me from my own mistakes. Just kidding, I know how busy you two are already…but..:)
great stuff Marc. i found the website this past weekend so i sat with a couple of six-packs and watched all of the videos. one area of woodworking in which i am weak is finishing so this latest video helped a lot. is there any possibility that you might do a video on air compressors and spraying finishes in depth? perhaps with topics such as choosing good and compatible equipment to proper mixing of the finish and what to look for when the finish leaves the gun, i.e. too thin/too thick.
Marc – Just to make sure I’m getting this correctly… If one of the legs is uneven and you put the stand on the TS and held it down, won’t it make the top unlevel after the cut? I get the idea but if one leg is longer than the rest (or one shorter) and you put it on a flat surface, your marks won’t make the table flat and level, will it? HELP! :-)
Thanks, Mike
If that doesn’t get it perfect, put some psa sand paper on a flat surface and rub the stand back and forth till it is perfect
OK Marc, I did that. I cut it six times and its still too short!
Hey Mike. From what I gathered, the discrepancy is not too great. So it shouldnt cause the table to go too far out of level. Certainly no more “un-level” than the floor its sitting on. :) If it were a major discrepancy between the legs, I would use weights and shims to get the table in a stable level position, then apply this technique.
Herman- Keep cutting. You’ll get there. :)
How many legs does this stand have? If it only has four, you only need to determine which of the four is long and slowly/carefully work that leg gradually down to get rid of the rocking motion overall.
Thanks, Marc! Makes sense now… I just had to visualize it a little better. Me brain don’t work so good sometimes. :-)
I appreciate the feedback!
I have found that if you are putting anything on a floor, especially hard wood floors, that it is going to wobble initially wherever you put it. No floor is dead flat so using a tension box or table saw top is only step one. After that is done and the table saw/tension box gods are pleased and shone on the project with delight, you are still going to have to shim it once it gets to its final resting place. I have found that the least obtrusive way of shimming is to get some clear plastic circle pads and place them under the project with the paper still covering the sticky back. Place them in a spot that deletes the wobble, sand if needed, and then peel off the sticky back and place permanently. The other thing that I have found that works for “slight” wobbles is using felt pads. The weight of the project, over a little, time crushes the felt pad on the foot that is carrying the most weight. Now if the piece is moved “reshimmying” needs to be done, but who doesn’t like a little shimmy?
why dont you just get some of those screw in adjustable feet?
heres some they come in 7/8”
http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?FamilyID=1691
Hey Marc,
Thanks for another awesome video. Looking forward to trying this finishing technique on my next project.
Do you wash and reuse the t-shirt after a project, or is this a “use one and dispose properly” kinda thing? If you wash, how do you do it? And if you dispose, is there anything special or does it just go in the trash?
-John
TRY THE DUST DEPUTY FROM ONEIDA…YOU ABSOLUTELY WON’T BE DISAPPOINTED….ALSO FOR SMALL SHOPS LIKE MINE, THEIR 3HP GORILLA DUST COLLECTION SYSTEM IS TREMENDOUS! I HAVE BOTH AND LOVE THEM. THEY BUILT LIKE TANKS…A VERY GOOD COMPANY TO DO BUSINAESS WITH TOO!
I appreciate the comments regarding my original question.
This is seemingly such a simple problem however nothing undermines the quality of a piece than a wobble.
Splayed legs are particularly prone to this problem, to the degree that one should assume a final trim as normative and/ or resort to LordLQQK’s suggestion to use a levelling shim.
I did some follow-up research before executing the procedure recommended by Marc :
I concurrently found an illustrated solution to this problem in the most recent “Tips, Jigs and Organizers”, from the editors of Wood magazine (on local news stands).
Check out page 124 at the back…how to…” make legs four-of-a-kind and flush to the floor”. Essentially similar to Marc’s solution placing the piece on the table saw as a level surface…
“In a piece of 1/4″ plywood, cut a hole larger than the diameter of the leg. From the same stock, cut three more small shims. Place one leg in the hole and trim the leg using a flexible flush-cut saw. Move the hole jig to the next leg, shim the just-cut leg and repeat the cutting and shimming process for the remaining three legs.”
If the language is not clear see the illustration.
I successfully used the shim-jig as described in the article as a marking guide and then took the piece to the table saw for trimming.
Lee Valley has self-levelling glides… ” the glides are self-levelling to prevent furnture wobble…”. . See their hardware catalogue, pp 179.
Maurice
wow guys awesome show looks like the afws was alot of fun and wow Norm. keep it coming love your guys show and God bless
Sweet…
I really enjoy your show. I am just beginning, and you are a God send. I thought that I would return the favor.
Way back when, I think it was episode 11, you gave us a brief tutorial of how to use Google Sketchup. What a great tool and free to boot. I just found out that Wiley publishers and printing a book on Google Sketchup. It is written by a member of the Sketchup team. I posted the link in the “Website” box above, but I will include it in the body of comments as well. http://he-cda.wiley.com/WileyC.....75656.html
Just thought you might like to know…if you didn’t already. There may be some others woodworkers out there starving for knowledge that may want to take advantage.
Thanks for all that you do! The ASWF footage was great you big tease!
Matt
I am so glad that you two took a risk to do what you enjoy and let us be part of the enjoyment. Dean
Wow, check you out…a year ago you were just a regular guy (except for spending some time in the shop with David Marks that is) and now you’re rubbing elbows with Norm Abrams AND he has heard of you! You should be commended for not only having the gutts to follow your heart, but for having the initiative to take a risk and throw your podcast out there. When you consider how quickly you’ve gone from podcast to where you’re at, that’s a fast payoff. Gotta love the technology that makes this all possible. Good for you
God, wish I could’ve stayed another day and met Norm, too….but Hey! I suck!
Didn’t get to meet “The Host with the Most–Marc Spagnuolo” and I didn’t even show up when the cam was on to make my internet debut…DANG! Yet another missed opportunity!
Matt is telling the truth :-) Just read the Google Sketchup for Dummies book over the weekend and its got very practical information that makes understanding how to approach and use the software much less frustrating. I recommend it to not just to beginners.
hey marc…what’s the intro music from…?
good job…!
Intro music is royalty free stuff from Apple’s IMovie. Good quality considering its free. :)
I have always enjoyed the David Marks series on DIY. Very nice smile from David. That must have felt good to see. Did you replay it a couple of times? Best regards, Joe
Mark- I don’t think that the “city of relaxation” moniker wll ever catch on, but that introduction is priceless!
i thought u said that episode 13 was the last episode to be posted on tww
I said it would be the the last time the file will be put in The Wood Whisperer feed. The link posted here is not a direct link to the file, but a link to the post on WoodTalkOnline.com. So its more of a notice of sorts. In the future, I may stop doing that as well. But for now its beneficial.
Marc – Having seen all of your podcasts and listening to WoodTalkOnline, I can honestly say your commitment to safety is great, and well ahead of most woodworkers on TV or in the media. You can be seen wearing the respirator in many of your podcasts, in addition to other safety steps. (Can’t say as I’ve ever see you “remove guard for clarity” like many other media types.) I also admire that the times you explain why you are or aren’t doing a certain thing with regards to safety (like why wearing a respirator may be overkill but is good, or why your wore gloves the one time to use the jointer).
Thanks for your commitment to your own safety, as well as ours! You definitely practice what you preach. :-)
And remember, Marc, there is no more important safety rule than to wear these, safety glasses! :-D
Mike
Mad props on the latest Wood Talk Online episode. The new outline and forum of the show is really exciting. There was something that wasn’t made clear though… The new authors on the site, will they be pulling from there own knowledge and experience to write these articles, or will they be pinch hitting for you and “side show Matt” by answering questions.
Thanks Kendall for the super sweet mad props. Word.
The new authors are simply contributors to the site. They will write articles and can be contacted individually for questions. Matt and I will still take emails and voicemails for the podcast.
That clear things up?
Man, you are a worker bee! The site looks beyond great and the idea of pulling in other woodworkers is just another example of the true genius that is The Wood Whisperer! As my homeboy, Kendall, put it; Mad Props!
Would you wax the Seal-a-cell finish? I routinely put a final top coat of wax on the wipe on poly finishes that I use.
Hey John. To tell you the truth, Im not a big fan of wax. It doesn’t offer much in the way of protection and it signs you up for a lifetime of maintenance and wax buildup. In my opinion, the varnish is durable and beautiful enough on its own. I just cant find any good reason to use wax. Again, this is just my opinion and I know many folks who love using wax. To each his own I suppose. :)
Marc, I can only hope that The Woodwhisperer website continues…I have learned much from it, believe it or not I now consider The Woodwhisperer, Woodworks,The New Yankee Workshop,and Fine Woodworking my main sources of info and inspiration.You seem to know your audience and know what to insert or leave out in your explanations of woodworking tasks.An example of what I mean was your info given on installing cup hinges on the shop cabinet you made a while back…This was the type of stuff often left out by others.I loved the interviews with Norm,Scott, and David. Do you think David will do any more Woodworks? How has Norm kept up with his workload for so many seasons? Thanks again,Jeff
Hey Jeff. I am honored to be held in such high regard. :)
No I do not think David will ever do more Woodworks, unfortunately. And not sure what the secret to Norm’s success. Determination and hard work I suppose.
Marc,
Thanks for that great interview. It had a lot of good information and showed a more personal side of David.
So were you his apprentice in a way? Or did you just hang around his shop a lot?
Marc (and Nicole), inspirational interview. Many great insights from a master. I’m particularly drawn to Marks style, as opposed to other woodworkers on TV. I’m glad the series helped his career and didn’t sour him on the whole woodworking process. Maybe in a few lifetimes I might achieve the expertise he displays. In the meantime, I’ll keep watching The Wood Whisperer and making sawdust!
I use a loose interpretation of the word “apprentice”. It was quite short term really. But I learned a good portion of what I know from the man, be it in person or from Woodworks.
thanks Marc – I’d been chomping at the bit for this one :^)
Back when I started getting interested in making real furniture (not just 2×4 utility stuff) I had felt Norm’s projects were a bit out of reach for me. His shop and immense amount of tools seemed way out of my league, so I never really persued fine woodworking as I saw it through The NYW. Still, the woodworking bug was instilled in me from pre-teen years spending summer days in my grandfather’s small garage shop and it was hard to ignore. So, when my wife and I bought a house a couple of years ago, I started setting up a shop to satify the genetic need to make sawdust. It was then when I discovered Woodworks, apparently a year after David completed his last season. It was that show that drew me in, and made me think that I might be able to make something I’d be proud of someday. Although David’s shop rivals Norm’s, David gave the projects a very personal touch and made everything seem do-able, despite his obvious talent and extraordinary creativity and vision. Still, there’s only so much you can pack into 20 minutes, and there were a number of questions as to the processes and how to’s that weren’t answered. Then, you started up your podcasts last winter and many of those pieces of the puzzle are now being filled in.
So here I am, 39 years old and awe-struck by an average guy with incredible talent who happened to get a TV show because he still had all 10 fingers. And, thankful to another average guy with a great collection of T-shirts, an aptitude to teach, and the kind of experential knowlege that I need to learn to lessen the years of mistakes I was sure to make in my quest to create something with wood.
I guess I’m just trying to say thanks, great job on this one!
Mike
Marc,
Great interview thanks, So far I have been on my own during the learning process and I gather all of my information from various sources. Originally books and tv shows like Davids were my main source but with the internet being the way it is It ha become an invaualble tool for learning and you are definatley at the forefront in the world of cyberwoodworking…. Keep it up :)
John
PS. I have a Bandsaw, I’m from NJ and I have a pretty blonde wife. Obviously a recepie for success…..
That was pretty inspiring. Thanks for doing the interview.
Also, what kind of music is he into playing?
WOW!
What a GREAT interview! It did not seem improptu – it seemed well planned! I know you two are friends, and some of the interview was that way (two friends talking), but the insight – incredable!
I believe one thing form that interview – two guys with two GREAT wives! You both have wives that always back you up. and Victoria (no disrespect to Nicole) but how well spoken and obviously Mark’s devout partner.
Marc – keep up the GREAT work! Nicole – continue with your “out of this world” support of this fantastic teacher and artist.
Hank Merkle
I was fortunate enough to take a class from David at the LA Woodworking Show a couple of years ago. He really is very pasionate about his work and his enthusiasm is contagious. I’m honored to have met the man.
Thanks Marc & Nicole – and keep up the good work! You are giving us average saw-dust manufacturers some great advice while keeping the instructions informative and entertaining.
Mike
Fantastic interview.
I love the comments about “discovering” the mortise and tenon joint and not knowing about wood movement.
Reminds me of the time I discovered linseed oil rags will spontaneously combust if you bunch them up and throw them away wet. Nothing burned down ;^{D
Marc -
Awesome interview! I love the relaxed style. It’s nice to be able to see him relax and here what he says in that setting and not the loud WHURR of the show! :-)
It was nice hearing from his wife, too. Seems like a lot of you fine craftsman are humble folks, so I like hearing the wife talk about the great stuff her husband does.
Nice work! Thanks for sharing that with us.
Mike
P.S. Did any part of you want to look at David and say in a Darth Vader voice, “Your powers are weak, old man. When last we met I was but the learner, now I am the master!”? :-P
Great interview. Thanks again for taking the time to put it all together.
Great interview. The whole woodworking communtity owes you deeply. My BIL and I salivate at every Wood Works show we see. David is an incredible professional. Being able to meet the real David Marks and his charming wife through your interview is as good as it gets. Thanks Mark, keep up the good work! =)
Excellent! Very refreshing to hear a master reminisce about early learning experiences and profess a lifetime of learning still in progress. Also refreshing to hear from the supportive spouse, both yours and Davids.
Very grateful for all your efforts!
Keep up the good work.
TJ
I was wondering why your shop was so clean too. Wanna stop by my garage and clean it up for me? Thanks.
The best podcast Marc made showed a delightful method of cleaning his shop….with a leaf blower! I managed to borrow one for fun and now my shop is much cleaner and like Marc, my dust seemed to just disappear into the wide blue yonder!
I’m the same way. I’ll (usually) do a quick clean up at the end of the day that involves putting all of my tools away and sweeping up the floor. Before the finishing stage of a project, but after the sanding, I’ll do a good shop clean-up that involves picking up everything off the floor and moving what I can to get all of the dust I can get. Once a project is done and I’ve resharpened all of my tools, I’ll even mop the place before I get started on the next one. How’s THAT for anal?
I am so not letting my wife read your response! Our relationship is the reverse of yours and Nicoles. I’m very OCD in many ways, but was not raised to notice clutter. I am trying for all the reasons you mentioned. Frankly, I’m just plain happier and way more productive when everything is in its place. I’m gonna try the 10 things, maybe that’ll work for me! God, please let it work for me!!!
Don’t be fooled. There are plenty of places I could show you in the shop that are dirty & messy ;)
now that i am divorced i feel i can let it go when i want and clean it when i want. before the divorce i felt like there were two of us and since we were a pair we needed to keep ip as clean as possible. we both cleaned on everything in and out of the house. she pitched in and helped with the shop while i pitched in and helped with the living room and bath room and so on. we just tried to make it fair for both of us. Dean
A clean shop is the sign of a craftsman. The owner of a dirty shop, where tools, junk and sawdust abound, can often be heard to say, “Good enough”, when fitting a joint.
I’m also a clean freak, but it can be very difficult to keep things organized if you don’t have enough room or storage space. I’m shy on both. Her car takes up half of the garage and my motorcycle takes up a fair amount of space as well. Fortunately, when it is time to make some sawdust, I pull the vehicles out and the tablesaw, bandsaw, jointer, planer, and Shopsmith are all on mobile bases. It isn’t convenient, but it works.
When it cools down, I’m planning to take a week off from work and build shop cabinets. The lower ones will be mobile as well and the wall mounted ones will be on a rail system. This way, when it is time to move, everything comes with me, quickly and easily.
Wish me luck…
The never ending story…… cleaning the shop……I always feel like I clean the shop just so I can tear it up again….. I have my garage set up as a perminent shop but it is not big enough. The part that drives me crazy is moving tools in and out when you use them. I am getting ready to move from Colorado to NC and the first thing coming out of the Earth is my shop (the one I want).
The things I look forward to most are: storage for my hand tools and small power tools, right now I keep them all in their cases and that takes up alot of room. A nice workbench and assembly table, right now I use my saw way too often for stuff I shouldn’t (cringe). And simply being able to walk from tool to tool without rolling things and moving D.C. hose’s………
John……..
oh yeah, cant forget about the new wood shed :)
I agree with picking up stuff, but how much residual dust escapes your dust collector? I don’t have a cyclone, I rely on my shop vac and even though I religiously hook it up to whatever tool I’m using, I still have dust that escapes and I end up sweeping at the end of a session. Any suggestions?
Hello I clean shop twice a year whether it needs it or not. It always needs it.
ONLY twice a year…geez i do like twice a week
Some of the most beautiful crafted furniture does not always come from a spotless neat shop. I have seen some pics of Mr. Maloofs shop and it’s not perfect but shows there is work being done and some very nice pieces at that. I wood love to do work like him and have my shop so messy.
I LOVE your post about heros. I was once at the Long Beach Grand Prix many years ago, when Mario Andretti was still racing, and I saw Paul Newman in the pit area, I walked up to him and asked if I could meet Mario Andretti (Paul co-owned Mario’s team). He looked at me with those blue eyes and said, you want to meet Mario Andretti? I said, oh yes, I adore him! Paul Newman went into a large RV, came back and said, wait here … he’s not in a good mood (Al Unser had just put him into the fence), but he’ll be out in a sec … out came Mario Andretti, and I was not able to speak for the awe I was feeling. It was one of those highlights that I won’t ever forget. My friends think I’m nuts – choosing to chat with Mario over Mr. Newman (:
Hi Marc,
Better late than never!
Well done! Unfortunately, it is hard to justify the expense of the Domino for a hobbyist (1000 bucks if you include tenon kit!)! If I could I would get one, but I think there are more important tools for me at this time! Unfortunately, Festool Powertools are not geared for the hobbyist! Does anyone other (translated – Less expensive! lol) manufacturer have a comparable tool that uses tenons (not biscuits!)?
Hey Marc! love the opening. Thanks for sharing some of the great stuff at the show with us. I hope their is more!
NO BLOOPERS?!? Again, great job Marc and Nicole. I assume the answer to the mitersaw question to Festool was edited in the vein of “if I told ya, I’d have to kill ya”. lol Thanks again for all the hard work you two put into this cutting edge venture we like to call The Woodwhisperer.
Hey Marc
Great interviews but what happened to the Kapex question?
The new intro is cool. What did you use to make it?
Hey Pat. Thats why this tool has made such a splash. The other “comparable” tools are not truly comparable. The closest analog would be the biscuit joiner. But I would never assemble this project with a biscuit joiner. Another much cheaper option would be dowels. But I have never had much luck with dowels in terms of accuracy. Now there are other tools that make tenons, but the process take alot longer. So its all a give and take. Bottom line is the Domino is a one of a kind tool. But it by no means a necessity. If you have a chisel, you can make mortises. If you have a router, you can do it even faster. Everything else just makes life easier and increases your accuracy, but unfortunately does nothing to increase your skill. :)
Love the new intro.
The new intro was actually made in IMovieHD. We are now moving over to Final Cut Express though so there should be more cool changes on the way.
Thanks, next best thing to being there. I really like the powermatic idea of incorporating a workbench into the extension on the tablesaw. I know it is bad bad JUJU to use your saw as a workbench and I cringe everytime I do it but unfourtainatly I do not have the room for a dedicated bench….. I think I will add one to my saw. I also look forward to your review of the Tenryu blade. i have a friend who is a cabinet maker and that is all he uses, he talks price point alot….
Thanks again to you and Nicole…
John
Hi Marc, Nicole!
Love the new intro and music! Thanks for the great interviews from the show. Those were some exciting new products and I can’t wait to see them first hand. Keep up the great work!
Best Regards,
Joe
Marc,
For some strange reason I cannot open the flv flash file. I thought it was my vista machine, (which is know to have flash problems, but my windows xp machine is doing the same thing. Have you had others report a problem??
Thanks,
Frank
Haven’t had any reports of that Frank. Video starts right up for me. Make sure you have the latest version of flash installed on both machines and that might take care of it. Email me if you continue to have trouble.
Marc – I am confused by your answer. Why would the joint be weaker in some cases? I would think that (and the article states this) the increased surface area would increase the strength of the bond.
Mind you this is all theoretical knowledge. But I have read on several occasions where things like splines and glue-line bits weaken the joint (although more so with splines than with the glue line bit). The idea usually stems from the fact that the joints have the potential for little breaks in the glue line. If the glue line bit joint doesn’t bottom out, there will be a slightly larger gap where the glue will pool. This will then be a weak point. Same thing with a splines. When most people makes splines, very rarely do they fit perfectly. So whereever the inconsistent and more “open” glue line exists, you will have a weak point.
But even in the worst case scenario, the joint will be solid for all practical purposes. But the real take home message is that you dont really need more strength than a long-grain glue bond provides.
Now since this is not from personal experience, I should change the text to read, “some people believe…..” In fact I will change that right now to avoid people thinking I am making a claim from my own experience.
Thanks for the question Trey.
A quick cure for long grain glue up joint alignment is a 30″ wide belt sander! We would always mill 1/16″ over, and get the edges as close as you can..then sand up from 60 grit through 120 into a perfect surface.
My guess is that the glue joint bit might create voids where the wood surfaces might not get good contact with the glue/other surface, and therefore have poor adheasion. Two boards, jointed and ripped properly with good even squeeze out along the joint will work perferct every time!
Wow… Learn something new everyday. I had never heard of such an animal before, so what an educational question.
Thanks for posting the link, Marc. I read the question three times and still didn’t have a clue. I followed the link and now I’m smarter! :-)
I would just be concerned that if you didn’t get that thing aligned exactly, you could force ridges on your glue up. Seems like more of a hassle to me. Easier to use nothing or biscuits.
An excellent question Alexander and a fabulous answer Marc. I have been watching your podcast and blog for weeks without any need to speak up, but this I must say has been very informative for me. I have used glue joint bits thinking I was getting a better bond however your logic makes plenty of sense. Thank you Marc for saying it striaght up and making me think deeper about the glue joint bit benifit. I suppose this could be classified as a woodworking paradigm.
glue line bits make your furniture look cheap and very nasty!
If you want it to look like some kind of mass produced Swedish cr*p, go ahead.
A well jointed edge with a few biscuits for alignment (whats not to like about biscuits?) gives a virtually seamles join and nice end grain finish.
A bit of a rant, but its Friday and I’ve had a bad week with the “client from Hell”
Where’s the beer?!
I just made a table top using 15/16″ thick, 6 1/4″ wide black ash boards, edge glued. I used a wedge glue joint bit (supposed to line up the edges) with a router table and feather boards both to hold the boards down and against the router table fence. With this thickness of boards, the feather boards failed to take out all of the little bit of bow in the boards. As Brad Nailer said above, a 36″ wide belt sander took care of the ridges. I should have used biscuits to line up the boards, not a wedge glue edge router bit. If your feather boards won’t completely flatten your boards, I would not advise using a glue router bit on the edges.
Marc,
This is the first episode that I cannot view. It starts out okay, but then sputters, stops, starts, and then just stops altogether. Did you change to a new format? Your interview with Dave Marks was great BTW.
Please note that I also tried to download the low-rez file, but it wouldn’t run on my RealPlayer either. Again, this is the first episode that I’ve encountered a problem with.
Fantastic work and I love your presentation style,
CWS
Hey there CWS. Nothing different about the video. Sounds like the download is just stalling for some reason. Make sure after you hit play, then hit pause and let it buffer for a while. As for the small file, you should probably use Quicktime for those.
Im glad you enjoyed the interview and I appreciate the kind words.
Good luck.
Hi, My streaming vidio also freezes; I will try the ‘pause’ technique you suggest.
My comment on Wetzler clamps, based on an expert instructor from Marc Adam’s School of Woodwokring, Steven Procter by name. He LOVES Wetzler. Partiularly likes not only their sturdy construction, and the fact that the screw comes out parallel with the bar evrery time (not true with Bessey’s). but the fact that they have that little pad cast into the head so that you can stand up a glued up assembly on it’s head, all the tops of the clamps sitting level on the floor. Checi out the picture.
Mike
Hi,
Couldn’t you cut a circle the size of your yo-yo out of a piece of plywood or other so that part of the circle is set on the edge. This would hold your work piece against the fence of a router table. Don’t cut the yo-yo stock to thickness. Then you can spin the yo-yo from above with fingers safe and cut it after the edges are routed. The little rout-able edge would protrude from the edge of the plywood into the bit.
Why not just buy the Yo-Yo Blank cutter from Rockler then there is no routing to do
Jim
since you have to put a dowel in the inside center of the Yo-Yo to connect the two sides use a screw to attach each side to a piece of plywood, once you are done routing the shape you can drill out the hole to an appropriate size for the dowel (assuming that is how you construct it)
John
Guys : I have a solution that will be worthwhile if you are making lots of them… use a vacuum clamping hold-down for routing! I invested in a vaccum pump a few years ago and have never regretted it. It can be used for veneering as well.
Tim
Why not just turn them on a lathe, much, much safer, and a lot more fun!
I would invest some money in a small lathe and save a few fingers in the process.. plus you can do some intricate designs..also some cool accessories that go with them like the chatter tool !!!
+1 Lathe
The best solution is to get a small, cheap lathe and turn them. This is the safest and fastest method.
I agree the way to go is a lathe. I have turned many yo yos on my lathe.
I second the use of a small screw to mount the yo-yo side to some plywood (or similar) and free-hand rout the edge. You can use some scrap the same thickness as the yo-yo around the outside to support the router since the yo-yo is fairly small. Be sure to give yourself enough space for the bit.
Che.
Great stuff! I have many videos to watch before I catch up with all of them, but just wanted to post a note and congratulate you on your work. Thanks for this stuff.
Or…OR!….you could make a really big Yo-Yo and start a whole new toy craze!
Definitely a lathe is your best option, however if you are running short on cash, and you can’t find a midi-lathe on ebay, craig’s list, or other; try using your drill press (that you probably already have). It will spin the wood through the hole you already have to make. If you haven’t yet, you can make a MDF or plywood table for it and use a steel rod for a tool rest for chisels or without the steel rod and make some pull gouges and scrapers. If you do make the table for the table saw remember to use at least 2 sections of 3/4 cabinet grade or MDF glued together for extra stiffness.
I’ll also vote lathe. You can do so much with it. Yoyos with a screw chuck are easy and fun. Plus you may find yourself in the legions of us who do very little flat work. Round is where it’s at. (unless of course you are into multi-axis turning, but that’s another post)
And how old would these “kids” be?? That’s some nice stuff.
-Brian
Okay, those are impressive pieces. Truly some creative minds and tons of talent. Any one of those could have been an episode worth of material.
I was truly amazed (jealous, inspired… yada yada yada) as to the quality of the pieces those kids produced! It’s refreshing to see some of the younger generation taking such an interest in woodworking and doing so well. I wonder if any of them are looking for an apprentice??
BTW wasn’t that the Beauty and the Geek at the end?? Well as much as beast fits…:)
Question from a novice woodworker – how do you stain the table top? Do you first stain one side, let it dry, then the other side? Or is there a technique to do top/bottom at the same time? Not sure where I would leave the table top resting without damaging the finish….
I couldn’t help myself. When I saw Lazcano’s Ryu; had to touch it. Don’t tell. Also, you should’ve put “contains graphic images” on the beginning. I almost had a heart attack when the beast arrived at the end!
Very impressive indeed. Any idea what wood was used on the seat of “the harp” (the piece shown above)? Any idea what type of joint was used to attach the legs to the seat? Thanks.
Hi Gui. I usually stain one side at a time. There is no easy way to stain both sides of a table top of that size.
Dear Marc,
I am from Bangladesh. Can you give me the basic formulation of Salad Bawl Finish. Can you tell me is mustard ( brown) oil FDA complient for wooden utensils like cutlary, serving plates etc?
Thanks
Hi Tutu. Most salad bowl finish in the US is just varnish. As for mustard oil, I never even heard of it. From what I can see though it seems to be a kitchen oil. Most oils like canola oil, vegetable oil, and oilive oil will go rancid on a cutting board. So please, do your research on mustard oil before applying it to the board.
I’d be tempted to try one of these from PSI: http://www.pennstateind.com/store/pkyopr1.html
Good luck!
One of the students in the furniture construction program that I attend at the University of Cincinnati had a piece there. He was working on it while we were making clocks. I don’t know what he called it, but it reminded me of a very stylized adirondack chair.
All I can say about those pieces is “WOW!” Nice stuff. Amazing work, and like Marc said, just imagine what these “students” will make later in their careers. Truly impressive work.
I had to wonder if the names were real when the first one listed was “Jessica Wood.” I thought maybe Marc was having fun with us…
As for the picture at the end, next time please post a warning that the following image may frighten small children and unsuspecting viewers! :-)
Thanks for sharing even more from AWFS! More inspiration for us all!
Since I started woodworking as a hobby I’ve read a lot of issues of the usual magazines: Popular Woodworking, Fine Woodworking, Woodsmith, etc… The thing is that after a while they start to repeat themselfs. I mean after the eight article about how to do a dado you really don’t want to read anymore. And the majority of the projects in those magazines follow in general the same basically square theme.
During the last couple of weeks I’ve been exposed to a more challenging kind of woodworking like for example all the angles on Marc’s step stool, the Rough Cut podcast and now most of the pieces shown on this video.
I know this type of piece is more complicated to do and document, and that there is a high level of craftmanship required to do them. I guess my question is what resources or magazines are out there that may help us hobbyst push the envelope a little but and maybe someday do a project like the ones shown in here.
Jorge
Jorge,
The only magazine i still subscribe to is Fine Woodworking. There are a few others out there that decent, but when I had to pick just one I went with FWW.
So aside from magazines, you should probably start doing some Googling for individual craftspeople. Start looking for different artists’ websites and you should find some goodies. Also look at some of the big name woodworking schools and see who they have teaching. Look those people up as well.
Marc,
I definitely agree with what you said about using the internet. I, too, have found that magazines eventually repeat over time so using the internet is a huge help.
I know that you can pay a small fee to subscribe to FineWoodworking.com and you have access to all of there old articles on PDF. You can search for specific stuff that can be a big help.
For what it’s worth, I was not paid to say that about FWW.com. I did, however, just get a free one month subscription to FWW.com from DeltaPorterCable and so far it has been awesome.
That’s the best part of the internet age — so much info that is so easy to find. You can also try the local library and search old magazine articles that way.
Good luck!
Wow! Can finishing actually be that easy??? Thanks for giving a simple solution.
One question for you Marc: Do you need to thin the first coat of Seal-a-Cell at all or just apply it as is?
It sure can be that easy. :)
You can thin Seal-a-Cell, but its already in a wiping formulation. So you can (and I have) diluted the first coat. But you don’t have to.
Thanks for the great question and answer… like most (I think) people, finishing is the part I’ve always been most concerned with. I’m always nervous at the end of a project that I’ll have spent all that time making sure my piece is flat, square and sturdy, just to mess it all up with the finish!
Thanks again!
Marc,
What would be the drawbacks of using a lacquer?
Thanks,
RJ
Hey Ron. The primary disadvantage I see with a lacquered top is scratching. You can also have problems with moisture as well. Blushing (white haze) can occur from too much moisture as well. This can all change if a catalyzed lacquer is used. A good cat lacquer can rival some of the best polyurethanes in durability. Not perfect, but still pretty darn good.
Marc,
I am confused. You stated that “An oil/varnish blend is ok, but probably not the right finish for a heavily used table. Your best bet would be full-strength varnish.” And the Arm-R-Seal label states that it is an Oil & Urethane Top Coat. What is the difference between this and an oil/varnish blend?
Pete
Good question Pete. I should have been more clear. You are absolutely correct. Seal-a-Cell is an oil/varnish blend. But I am recommending that for the first two coats. That way the piece gets the benefit of the added “warmth” that oil brings to the wood. It tends to impart a nice amber color. The topcoat is really where all the protection comes into play. So hitting it with 3-5 coats of Arm-R-Seal (a pure varnish), gives you the protection you need on a table. But the color is a bit warmer than it would have been if the Seal-a-Cell had not been used.
That make sense?
How about rounding the sides before cutting the blank clear of the laminate?
Use a circular jig outside your router to create a clear channel and then round over with the same jig. The jig is has a base with a cut out that holds the yo-yo blank in a recess using double stick tape (yeah, stole that from Mark). Then flip the blank and perform the same operation. Then release the yo-yo with a straight bit.
I think his question was because Arm-R-Seal doesn’t say “pure varnish” on the front of the can. Instead it says: “oil and urethane topcoat”, which seems remarkably similar to the “combination of oils and urethanes” in the product description for Seal-a-Cell. Is it just that one has more resin than the other?
(Unfortunately, the General Finishes website doesn’t have a separate product info datasheet for the Seal-a-Cell. MSDSs are similar to my uneducated eye.)
Matt
Good topic! I have been absolutely intimidated by finishing so I went and bought an excellent book on the topic. It is by Bob Flexner and is called “Understanding Wood Finishing.” I highly recommend it. It is onsale for half price at Rockler.com now (unfortunately I way overpaid for it at a local bookstore). Here’s a link: http://www.rockler.com/product.....r%20Outlet. $9.95 :)
Thanks,
Joe
what about norm’s fav wipe on poly? i hate hate brushing on varnish(who doesnt!?)
Marc,
Do you know if local stores carry these products? I looked for them today at the big box store (orange one) and couldn’t find them. S&H is pretty expensive on big gallon buckets of varnish!
Marc, I just ordered the wood so I can get cracking on a couple of these cutting boards. I’ve only just bought a table saw so I think that this will be a great second project (the first was a birdhouse. :-) )
Thanks for putting this podcast together. I’ve watched this particular episode many times dreaming about the day I’ll FINALLY get the stuff together to give it a try.
Jonathan
Marc,
I like the changes you’ve made to the show. The new intro is great, the tool tips are nice as well as the other graphical items tossed in there.
I’d also like to thank you for showing the “real” version of the liegh jig. I’ve got the previous model (the D4) and I do like it (though I need to practice more) but it was nice to see you showing the details such as the test board. No other woodworking show seems to show that part and it truly is a critical step.
Thanks again, you and Nicole are doing a fantastic job!
Darryl
Marc,
Nice work on the dovetails podcast. Its nice to have you back doing podcasts for us again. Are the handcut dovetails next!
Great work by both you and Nicole,
Jeff
Is it just me, or did you cut the pins and tails on the wrong pieces for that case? The wenge should have pins, not tails.
You guys have a pool? Great video, thank you.
Thanks for the kind words guys. Hand cuts are not next, but we will do a show on them eventually.
Taylor- yes. ;) I dont recommend living in Arizona without one.
Just like Steve, I can’t help but wonder why you cut tails on the wenge fronts – at least that what it looks like?
I’m one of those nut-bars who are trying to reverse time by going back to hand tools. This sounded like a good idea until I faced my first rough board with nothing but a hand plane. I have, however, thoroughly enjoyed the process of hand cutting dovetails. While these ego-boosting joints are a real buzz to see, the main reason for their use, I believe, is their ability to offer an extremely strong glue joint. End grain to end grain glue joints have no strength, end grain to long grain has some strength, but long grain to long grain is brutally strong, and that is exactly what a dovetail joint gives you – lots of long grain to long grain contact for a lasting joint.
Boy, your beard grows back really fast ;)
Thanks for the videos and keep up the great job!
-Ron
wow, Marc – really demystifying the process for us newbies. I love the new changes to the format – it’s looking so well produced that I’m ready to hear it being bootlegged by DiY….lawsuits pending, of course. :)
Mike
Great podcast. I watch alot of woodworking shows and noone, even Norm, ever shows all the set up that goes into makikng dovetail joints. Thanks for the demo.
Marc & Nicole:
Outstanding work on the dovetail podcast! The closeup camera work to show the scoring cuts and plunge cuts was especially good. I love the out-takes.
How long does it take to produce a 30 minute segment like that? I am not sure everyone has an appreciation for the amount of work involved.
Kirch
lol now thats a classic. After a second comment I figured I needed to go back and review the details again you guys are absolutely right. I did reverse my pieces. Is this a “do as I say and not as I do” situation? lol.
Oh well. Just remember, pins on the fronts/backs and tails on the sides. Damn good thing those were just “props” for the show. ;) Incidentally, I made an error note in the actual show notes.
Kirch- It does take quite a while. The filming was done over the course of 2-3 days, but it wasn’t the only thing I was working on. So lets say 1 day of filming. The editing took me about 2 days. Now the reason for that is because I am using new editing software and I am still getting comfortable and experimenting with different graphics. But eventually the editing will get faster.
We all have bad days
Oh Im not ready to call that a bad day just yet. Making that mistake on a customer’s project…….now THATS a bad day. ;)
Episode #27 was great. Thought the Leigh dovetail jig was too complicated, not so after your video.
Hey Marc very good dove tail video.
I would like to say one thing about a comment you made during the opening. “Don’t let the customer or recipients standard of quality dictate your level of quality”.
But if you recall when you built the armoire with the louvered doors I asked you if you had thought about talking the customer out of using doors that didn’t match. since your work would be judged by others on its appearance. You became somewhat agitated and said you have to do what the customer wants!
Tthats who pays the bills. And that I probably wouldn’t like your other work either.
Well Marc I do like your work for the most part. But you might consider that constructive criticism although hard to hear sometimes isn’t a personal attack on you. And believe me after being in the business longer that you have been alive I have had my fair share of criticisms and attacks.
So to end this rant, Marc don’t say “Well whatta ya think guys” if you don’t want to know what people think.
Terry.
Hey Terry. I think you misunderstood the point I was making. The louvered doors were something the customer wanted. I didnt necessarily like the way they looked. But that had absolutely nothing to do with “quality”. The doors were finely crafted and they suited the customer’s taste. There is a big difference between the concepts of style/taste/aesthetics…………..and quality. Let me give you an analogy. You are a painter and the customer wants a certain wall painted pink. You think pink is ugly, but the customer insists they want it pink. So you paint the wall pink. Your responsibility then is to paint that wall with the best techniques you know how, regardless of the color.
So with woodworking, if you have certain quality standards, than I believe you should always strive for those standards even if the customer would be satisfied with less. And of course, to survive in this business, you occasionally need to compromise those standards to bring a piece down to a price the customer is looking for. But when this happens, I make sure the customer is fully aware of what they are getting……and more importantly, what they are NOT getting.
And if I do ask what you guys think about something, I am fully prepared to take criticism, good and bad. I may not always like it, but I don’t think I have ever responded unreasonably to criticism.
Cool video Marc. I have been wanting to buy one of those dovetail jigs, it’s great to see the ins and outs of how to use one. One of the things I learned in working in a production woodshop is always mill setup pieces when preparing your materials..they are indispensable! Another thing is, no matter what your personal tastes are you have to give the customer 100% of the quality that you’re capable of, regardless of how they want it finished. I cant count how many times we would make a beautiful wine cellar out on vertical grain fir and the customer would end up painting it..or a beautiful set of mahogany entrance doors..again just to be painted. Sacrilege in my book, but..what the customer wants….
Great demo on dovetails. Since I have the Leigh systems, I plan to use your video to refresh its setup….. Thank you
Suggestion… since you reversed the pin and tail setup, please consider redoing this video… your presentation is a terrific training reference for those who infrequently use a dovetail system.
Thanks Larry
Larry. Remake the video? lol. I was lucky to get the video out the first time.
The good thing is that most people would not have even picked up on the error if I didnt announce it. In the video, When I said I was cutting pins, I was actually cutting pins. When I said I was cutting tails, I was actually cutting tails. The mistake is only visible when I am doing the test fit and you see me fitting a piece of wenge with tails, to a piece of maple with pins. The actual process and setup and spoken advice is all accurate. Just pretend you are color blind and there will be no confusion. :)
Marc,
Thanks for giving me dovetail fever. I was watching your podcast at 3a.m. last night(up with a sick kid) and I came thisclose to running out to the garage to run a few pieces through my D4 to see if I could minimize tearout, get them snugger, get some test pieces in the kitchen so my wife would make me breakfast, give me a back rub, etc….
Didnt realize the effect dovetails had on the significant others! Thanks for the additional non-woodworking insite and wish me luck!
Also, yet again, kudo’s for the continued evolution of TWW to you and Nicole!
Hey again Marc
Not to turn this into a debate but rather a discussion, I do understand where you are coming from although you kind of lost me at the pink wall. All I’m saying is that by putting yourself out there with your pod casts and different endeavors you have become, like it or not a figure that the younger woodworkers look up to a teacher. And as a surviving and thriving woodworker and loving the craft what bothers me the most is when someone that teaches or advises the next generation woodworker ,that’s good enough, no one will see it there or even, I didn’t really like it but its what they wanted. Woodworking isn’t like a lot of things that no one will care about in a hundred years if you are good and take pride, in a hundred years people will care.
And when I know something is wrong I say no. whether its color materials or joinery good enough isn’t good enough unless its your best. Put your name on your work if it makes you proud. I’ve never signed a piece and added I wish I hadn’t done it like that.
Ok rant over lol
Terry.
PS.
Still buds?
Marc, I realise it will be PITA but I would pull this video and re-edit the corrections else it will come back to haunt you. I agree with others who have commented on it as an excellent educational resource but as it stands it will confuse those who are new to this game – especially as you go to the trouble of explaining why the tails and pins go where they do.
Hey Terry. Of course we are still buds. I guess everybody has a different philosophy. I consider the door style an aesthetic issue, not a quality issue. I believe that something can look like crap, yet be well constructed. Alot of the artistic furniture I see is exceptionally ugly, but I have to marvel at the skill involved in building the piece. So I suppose we, as woodworkers, need to decide where to draw our personal “line”. From my experience, if every piece I build has to conform to my own taste and my own likes and dislikes, I would never make any money. When a customer commissions me to build a pre-designed piece, I am not in much of a position to change their design. Yes, it takes the art out of it, but I wasn’t hired for my artistic vision in this case. I was hired for my technical skill. And I think that’s where we differ. That sounds like a job you would have turned down. For me, it was a no-brainer. The money was good and I need to eat.
This customer’s design essentially revolved around these doors. The doors were a distinct part of his vision. Telling him his doors dont look right to me would be roughly equivalent to telling him I dont like his hair cut. I have to know where to draw the line between an opinion, and a necessary design suggestion.
And on a second note concerning the video, right now its just not feasible to redo the video. This video is by no means a step by step how-to on machine dovetails. No one should be able to take this video alone and go cut some dovetails. It was really meant to cover the basic concepts and provide tips and tricks that you might not otherwise see. With a written correction, this comment thread, and a user’s manual, I have faith that even beginners will understand and not be hindered by the error. Perhaps when my schedule frees up I will go back and reshoot those scenes. Hell, maybe I will just shoot a correction announcement and insert that into the video. :) In fact, I think that’s just what I will do.
Wow! Tough crowd, Marc, especially the cyberspace hecklers.
You said it Mitchell—a really tough crowd. This is how I see it:
Marc and Nicole are not only running a successful woodworking business but also a successful website, which I suspect is even more challenging.
Is there any room for improvement in their work? Sure, but their customers are satisfied and they are having fun doing it. Now there are times when you need a kick in the butt to move to the next level. We all do from time to time, but I have always followed this rule:
Praise individuals in public and criticize them in private.
Just my two cents,
Frank
Great show!! I have a leigh jig and learned a few tips from you that I plan to incorperate in my shop.
You mentioned in your show that you can use any wax applied to the tools. The problem is that the wax must be silicone free (many waxes contain silicone). The silicone can interfere with finishes down the road. I personally use pure carnuba wax. It is a little spendy, but when you think of the $$$ we have spent on our tools, I feel it is well worth the extra cost.
Keep up the great work. I look forward to future episodes.
Shannon
Awesome Job Marc! Thanks for always encouraging me to be a better woodworker.
Marc, great podcast again, but one other thing that was a little confusing to a newbie. The video seemed to skip the step describing how you determine spacing for each individual pin/dovetail. You showed where the end pieces fit but then it skipped to …. now it is set up and you were tightening screws. Is each one evenly spaced, does it matter or is it something you just eyeball ? Not a criticism , just a question.
Hey Marc, thank you so much for the step-by-step on the machine-cut through dovetail process. Once again, and as always, you’ve delivered a high quality podcast with both solid information and a good sense of humor.
As for the snafu with the tails on the fronts, I think you deserve a little slack. I think it looked kinda cool. What would stop you from putting a dowel vertically through the tails and pins, to support the “mistake”?
Hey Runningwood. The awesome part about that jig, and other jigs as well, is that the spacing doesn’t matter. Whatever looks good to you. But as always, consult the users manual for your particular jig just to be sure of the spacing situation.
Hey You Damn Hippie. :) You certainly could dowel the dovetails if you wanted to. But truthfully I dont think all is lost if you assemble a drawer backwards like that. Honestly, a nice tight fitting joint and a little glue will go a long way. There is still lots of long grain to long grain glue surface and I think you would still have to break the joint completely to get them apart. So although its not the “proper” way to do it, I dont know that I would trash a whole project if you realized at the end that the pins and tails were reversed.
Marc, I guess know you know why Norm never got more specific than the basics! As usual I did learn some tricks of the trade that will make my dovetails better and easier but I think that cutting dovetails with a router is one of those things that you need to do yourself with your jig and your manuel.
On a different subject I am now completely caught up with the T Chisel rough cut show thanks to your link. He is quite a character and a craftsman.what Are your thoughts on Tommy and his bombe secretary?
Good podcast on the Leigh jig. You almost have me wanting one :-)
I say almost because, like you I started off with the Rockler jig and hated it, learned to cut dovetails by hand, and then recently bought a Keller jig for functional dovetails. I may eventually get a D4R if I find myself having to make a lot of multiples of drawers like for a gang run of dressers for someone (and can absorb it into the job).
At first I thought the Keller was the poorman’s dovetail jig, but in reality, its super efficient and produces excellent functional dovetails with the absolute minimum of set up. I use mine in conjunction with the router table and its definately the get r done dovetail jig.
ps The power went out in my area of Los Angeles on Saturday and it was 106 outside. I can’t fathom what its like to live in Arizona with the heat you have to deal with.
Forgot to say..the video quality is excellent….the new camera is really working for ya. The dovetail type details look like Sketchup to me…wow…Getting fancy! Next maybe some animations?
Grest piece on the dovetail jig. I do a few things differently than you showed but that is the beauty of this machine. It will allow different procedures for those of us that wish to use them. You almost can not do it wrong if you read the book, you only need to pick the way you like best. One factor is Marc’s use of two routers and the setup involved. I use one router and reset my router. you did a good job Marc despite some of the comments and I sure appreciate it. Dean Knight
Marc & Nicole… Awesome video… the new equipment and software has made a perceptable difference. Thanks for the T-shirt… now offer a grey one so i wont ruin the next one I order first time out… white and me should not be allowed together… How about grey or navy blue…
Drew
I think some here need to cut the man some slack! At the beginning of the podcast did you see the caption that said “this podcast will replace the owner manual”? Neither did I because it wasnt there! Also, if you pull up the DIY Network, you won’t find the WoodWhisperer because they are not shooting the podcasts! These podcasts are being done by Marc and Nicole on their own dime. They are not being directly paid by someone to shoot these.
As far as the pins and tails being backwords, who says that is wrong. I recently had a commission where the customer wanted the drawers of their cabinet built witht the tails pointing out! It actually looks nice and the customer is happy. Besides, if you cut the pins and tails correctly and glue them together, you WILL NOT pull them apart. So who’s to say what is backwards?
I wonder how much crap the rest of us would catch if we put our projects on a website and had them critiqued by every tablesaw owner in the world? I don’t think I would enjoy my work being disected grain by grain.
Have a great day,
Jeff
Marc,
great show, great podcast!
Just an expansion on a comment you made in the intro to your dovetail podcast. The old Chinese certainly knew and occasionally used dovetails. Dovetails were one of the simpler joints and as far as I know were rarely used as structural elements in fine furniture. Of course there are few notable exceptions such as this one:
http://www.wkfinetools.com/tUs.....tail11.asp
Keep up the good work!
Chris
Fantasic work on the new season! I really enjoyed the new video on the D4R, as I purchased one just one month ago. Any words of wisdom on using plywood in the jig for drawers? Your tips on tape and backer board really helped, but I found I had to put a board on the front side as well. Also, I pre-cut my dadoes for the drawer bottoms, but my pin placement must be slightly off, because my joints did not line up when attaching the sides and front. Maybe I would be better to cut those after?
Thanks again for the great work,
Paul
Mark-
WOW – I mean WOW!!!!
I am not sure there was EVER that many comments from listeners?
Here is my two cents – DO NOT REDO the video!!!! (Yea I saw that you already said you wouldn’t) – but here is the thing. What many of us like about your site and specifically the pod casts – is the fact that you are DOING this (whatever technique or project etc.) and the reality is we do things wrong – that is life! That is life in the shop – you have to pay attention, you have to block out those things from work or what ever and as you point out sometimes it is not easy and that is when we make mental mistakes that as in this case are not easily fixable! But if I were in your shoes, I probably would have played up the fact of the mistake as a training point of “Measure twice, cut once” (In this case stop, look and make sure of your pin and tail boards!) (Sorry Nicole – skip to the next sentence!) Because noone wants to screw up their chance for a good tail!
Thanks again Mark for a GREAT pod cast and learning opportunity!
Hi Marc, my name is Chena I have a question for you, how do clean bristle brush after using Spar Urethan?
Thank you
Regards,
Virginia Jimenez
Finally, a podcast where Marc is using the venerable OF 1400 EQ. Nice to see German engineering used in such a nice setting (cutting dovetails of course). I like how the ease and control of the fine micro-adjust were demonstrated cuZ i am gonna use the same router to make my own dovetails.
The video is a great inpiration.
thanks again
Marc
You could have taken the easy way out and explained that this particular drawer is not narrow side to side, and deep front to back, but wide side to side and shallow front to back. Oh…..and those color differences……thats a design element. Yeah….thats the ticket…a design element! ;-)
I ain’t nowhere near ready for dovetails yet…but I sure enjoyed the video. Keep up the good work.
Marcs’ answer is right on. I miss having a wide belt sander available to me. We would mill all stock 1/16 over and sand everything into final dimension, up to 120 grit. Cuts down on your hand sanding, and gives you consistant material thickness for all parts. Not to mention the ability to sand huge table tops was like a dream! At least even with an open end drum sander you could do everything short of sand the tabletops.
The mistake you made on the dovetails, and the wonderful way you handled it shows that you are trying to TEACH us not just make a presentation. Great job. I learned a ton.
Thx
I have found that I use my drum sander more and more. To me, it is better for the average, casual woodworker than the planner as with the planner you have to start with one surface flat. If you are working with over size boards or glued up pannels, this is impossible in a small shop. The sander is slow but at least solves the problem of one flat side. If I try to use hand tools or smaller sanders, I almost always get a variety of thickness and often have valleys and ridges. With the drum sander if you pay attention to stock feed and drum pressure and take your time you really get a consistent result.
I’ve said it before, and I’ll say it again…
Marc, the reason I love this site so much is because you are a kick-butt woodworker and craftsman, but you are also human and YOU AREN’T AFRAID TO ADMIT IT! No offense to Norm Abram or any other big-time woodworker, but you never see them screw up (yet you know they do).
I learn more from you from what you do right and wrong than all the rest combined. Being human helps us see common errors and realize that when we screw up, we are learning from our experience and that is okay.
THANK YOU for providing yet another awesome podcast. You are the BEST! And a few new bloopers never hurt either! :-)
Thanks,
Mike in St. Paul
Marc,
Do you ever see yourself upgrading to a Timesaver (like Norm) or is the more portable drum sander the limit? I’m just curious how big an operation you need before you make the investment in a Timesaver. How much of a difference is there between a decent drum sander and a Timesaver?
Mike in St. Paul
P.S. I guess in all fairness, Norm probably got his Timesaver comped so maybe that’s not a fair comparison.
Hey Mike. I could probably “get by” with my Performax sander forever. I doubt I would ever shell out the cash for one of the bigger units like the TimeSaver. But what a nice luxury to have, huh? So if you ever see a big drum sander in my shop, you can bet I didnt pay for it. :)
Hi,
Been there, done that. I call them fancy fingerjoints.
Keep up the good work!
I know, I know. I’m extremely late viewing your latest podcast. MY BAD! But, I’m
kinda glad I didn’t watch until now, because I usually only see the comments made before mine. The comments on this podcast truly show your impact in this new realm of woodworking education. If your podcast were not interesting, informative, and very highly watched, you would not be receiving the highly emotional and varied responses. After I figure out if I can ever master my Woodrat, I might think about a Leigh jig. Thanks again for always entertaining me and thanks to all you regulars who love woodworking and TWW enough to have strong opinions, which are also very entertaining.
My own little piece on a drum sander. Thoroughly think through the engineering before purchasing a drum sander. I have the Delta and the problem there is that the table(instead of the drum head) is what moves. Not a problem until you are sanding long pieces that need in-feed and out-feed support. Think about it, I didn’t. Anyone wanna buy a Delta drum sander so I can afford my new Performax?
Great Podcast, you do a great job of adding touch of humor to the woodworking, and not to mention that you offer very good informaiton.
I see that you got the Super Lub at Lowes, where did you get the other items (T-9 Boesheild, Silicon Carbide Stone and Renaissance Wax)?
Thanks and keep up the good work.
Marc:
Need to invest in several wireless mikes. Us old geezers that are hard of hearing or pc speakers that aren’t up to it, struggle.
Dan
Marc,
Can you recommend a respirator for comfort? I worry they might be uncomfortable or cause safety glasses (or regular glasses) to fog up. I always wear hearing and eye protection, but I’ve not started with the lung protection and would like to find an effective, but most importantly, comfortable, solution. Thanks for any advice.
–Dave
Sure thing Dave. This is the one I recommend and use:
http://thewoodwhisperer.com/store/shop.php
Very comfortable and no fog because the exhaust is downward.
Hi Marc,
Excellent job on the episode! I really like the widescreen format.
Two questions about this episode:
1. One of the best features about Festool routers, I’m told, is the dust collection. It looks like you didn’t hook up the dust collection while routing out the tails and pins. Is there a reason for this?
2. From a production standpoint, how long does it take for you to finish a dovetailed drawer using the Leigh jig, including setting up the jig, doing your test cuts, and cutting out the dovetails with your “good” boards?
Hey Wilbur. The Festool dust collection is indeed the best in the business, but on a dovetail jig, it is off little use. The dust collect of all routers is above the base. The vacuum sucks the chips up as the bit creates them. On a dovetail jig, the bit is below the base, the jigs fingers, and is housed by a guide bushing. There is virtually no way the suction can reach the bit. So on a dovetail jig, the only effective dust collection will occur below the router. I believe Leigh just came out with a vacuum attachment that does just that.
As for the production time, I have never really timed it. But I would say I could have a set of dovetails cut in about 30-45 minutes.
Hope that answers your questions.
Marc: Saw one of your videos for the first time yesterday. I really appreciate your approach of candor, humor and youth to a somewhat stodgy industry. I will try to support you financially so you can keep it going. Thanks.
Norm Musur
Marc, yes Leigh did come out with a vacuum device as you said. The other factor that has Leigh in business is the quality and repeatability. If all of us could cut them by hand and have them 1/2 as nice we would cut them by hand. To most of us the time is not the factor it is the quality. I wany my dovetails to look like yours or Norms (God bless Norm) and there is only one way I can do that and that is to use a Leigh jig.
Dean
One item re:dovetail jigs. The Leigh is probably #1 on the gold standard but there is a jig out there called the Stotts which you make yourself. Granted it only makes through dovetails but for about $40 fee you can get the template and build it as long as you want and it cuts a pretty good eyeball dovetail for much less than the Leigh. Once you make the jig, it does not take 30-40 minutes to dovetail all four sides of the drawer, if you can remember to keep them in proper order.
The info you gave is perfect. I even once tried to use a piece of tarpolin suspended about 1 foot over a huge panel i was finishing some years back. It actually worked, but it took forever to setup. I also use wipe on poly, and do thin it on the first and last coat.
Another idea is to have a higher temp in the shop as well. A temperature of 10 degrees higher than standard room temperature also helps the finish cure faster.
Also you may want to try water-based finishes! In some cases, they can dry faster than shellac finishes. I find that major horizontal surfaces (tables, chests, dressers, etc.) need tough oil-based finishes. But the sides (gable ends), i use water based with great results.
The smell is greatly reduced, and you don;t have to wear a mask (you should always anyway)! But with oil, it can be unbearable in a small space.
Peace
I am troubled that so many wood working people point to the example of glue line failures that show pieces of wood still bonded to the glue, and then say “The long grain glue bond in a tabletop glue-up is stronger than the wood itself.” This is false. Perhaps the bond between the glue and wood is strong enough to cause the pull out of wood fibers that it bonded with, but to my knowledge all of the failures these wood workers point to occur adjacent the glue line. Stress points build within material at changes in properties, ie. stiffness, shear and tensile strength, density, etc. The glue line does just this, and the failure mode that people are pointing to supports this. If the glue line is as “strong”, then the failures should occur with equal frequency some distance away from the glue line. Glue joint and finger joint bits provide a distribution of stress over a relatively large width of the board, and will provide more strength. The question should be, is this necessary? To that I would say no. A glue line joint provides more than enough strength if done right.
Hey Rolf. I totally see your point, but I have to disagree with you. I suppose I interpret it differently than you do. I agree that the change in rigidity caused by the glue bond will usually result in a crack or split somewhere adjacent to the glue line. I still interpret that result as “stronger than the wood itself” which supports my original assertion. I dont understand how you interpret this as disproving that claim.
Obviously, ANY joint will result in a weak point. Its inevitable. The point is that if the wood is going to break, it will not break at the joint. So when answering questions about reinforcing a long grain joint, my answer is that it is not necessary simply because the long-grain glue bond will not fail before the wood itself fails.
At least we both agree that in general, these extra steps are not necessary for a standard tabletop. :)
Great info. On oil poly you might want to use water when you use the 2000 grit sandpaper. It is wet/dry super mega fine stuff and can give you a mirror like finish with high gloss poly. Use a spray bottle and lightly mist the surface, this will keep the paper from clogging and it acts as a lube for the sanding. Sanding block/sanding dowels should also be used wherever possible.
LQQK
I had a large piece to finish and obtained a very good result by simply hanging some clear plastic sheeting from the ceiling. This worked great and was simple to construct. From watching the painters who work on my house, I get the idea they do the same when applying varnish and poly.
I use a coat or two of brush on poly sanding with 400 between coats (you really need to let this dry or it will pill up when you sand if it’s not dry). I’ve found that wipe-poly by itself doesn’t give enough of a base unless you put about 10 coats on and I don’t want to spend this kind of time. To prove to yourself how little wipe-on goes on try measuring the amount of wipe-on poly that you actually use for a coat and and you’ll be amazed at how little goes on. Anyhow, after it’s dry wipe a couple of coats of wipe-on poly with a light 600 sanding in between. You can finish with a final wipe-on satin, a light rubbing with 0000 steel wool followed by wax, or simply a coat of wipe-on gloss poly if you want a higher sheen. Virtually no dust problems and a great finish.
Marc & Nicole,
I’m still trying to find those vitamins you take :)
What a great show and how refreshing it is to see a professional boost his audience’s self-confidence by NOT editing out the real world experience.
Keep the good work!
Thanks,
TJ
Thought this presentation was awesome. I also enjoyed the bloopers.
Do you think you will eventually get to the setiing up of the jointer?
Please keep up the great job.
Greg, check out Video Podcast No. 6. “This Jointer’s Jumping”.
Thanks Greg and thanks Vic for pointing him to Episode 6. Eventually I will do a full episode on the setup of the jointer. Kinda like I did for the bandsaw. Now that I have finished all the commissions I was working on, I can really focus on determining a filming schedule. So the best I can say right now is……”soon”. :)
Hello
Very interesting information! Thanks!
G’night
Wonderful.
Thank You!
Hi Marc,
I understand you cut the pins and tails in the wrong boards by accident. I do on occasion cut them this way intentionally when I want to show them off. Visually the tails are much more interesting to view I think. In order to overcome the loss of the lock offered by a properly cut dovetail I dowel the joint.
Once everything is cut I dry fit everything to assure fit then glue up the drawer as normal. Once the glue is dry, from the bottom I drill a 3/16” hole to within ½” of the top on both corners. I then glue in a dowel rod. The joint is as strong as any but has some unique visual interest. The look afforded by seeing the tails isn’t for every piece but on some it is striking.
Don
Another great show Marc(but I still miss your old intro music)!
Thanks Grant. Want me to send you a copy of the song on CD? :)
Excellent!
I don’t mean to take anything away from your new stuff; it’s just that the old intro was so identifiable.
Well, unfortunately the song is identifiable with several other internet shows as well. Its a royalty-free track from Apple and is quite popular. I decided for the sake of originality to go with a less known royalty-free track. I also don’t think the other song would have been an appropriate fit for the new intro.
Marc. You are quite right.
I am over it; but I do hope to hear more of your funky, jazz, fusion stuff in the future. (-:
Marc, I was wondering what software application you are using for your podcast editing. I’ve been playing with iMovieHD, which has some limits but the ease of use has been a real time saver for my limited videos.
I will definitely jam it out again in the future Grant. No worries there. :)
CAM, I am currently using Final Cut Express. You can find out more about my setup on the About page: http://thewoodwhisperer.com/about
Thanks for another episode full of good ideas. Loved the leaf blower tip. I think it’s time blow out my garage.
Mike
Marc,
The out takes at the end are great! I really need to get out to the shop and start putting stuff away. I like your previous concept of “Put 10 things away before you start your day in the shop.” Unfortunately, over time, I think it needs to be moved to 15 or 20 things.
Great inspiration to be more organized!
Another great video Marc. Lots of good info about the least fun part of woodworking. Leaf blower=Genius!! haha
Bama5150
Great job on an other well done episode! The easiest thing I do to keep my shop running smooth is… Keep Chelsi out.
Great Episode! The production values, as well as the tips, advice and instruction, keep getting better and better.
Marc- can you write an update once you’ve had a chance to check out the Tenryu? I’m looking to eventually upgrade from my Freud, and it’s pretty much between that and the WWII.
Looking forward to the next video!
I agree with Travis let us know about the performance of the Tenryu.
leaf blowers are the bomb. once cleaned out my house with mine. but thats a different story. have several tenryu blades at work. love em.
Sylvia is making me tell you this. I mean it in a totally straight and very platonic way. You make me happy! There I said it. O.K.!!!! Yeah, she says that’s good enough. I can come outta my room now.
Another excellent episode, Marc and Nicole! I love how you often tackle topics outside the normal focus of woodworking. You would never see other celebrity woodworkers tackle a whole episode on clean-up, yet it is a topic that affects productivity and safety. Like you said, “a clean shop is a safe shop.” It’s also a heck of a lot more easy to get your work done.
I can’t think of any other place where you get real-world examples on techniques like dovetails and other joinery, plus good information on design, shop equipment, and safety. The variety is what makes this site the most informative and most entertaining.
One thing I can share is an “extra” filter for the shop vac. I read somewhere that you can take a piece of women’s hose (panty hose leg or knee high) and stretch it over your regular shop vac filter to help keep out the fine dust (be careful so it doesn’t tear as you roll it over the filter). I’ve done it and it works great. Granted it doesn’t get the ultra fine dust, but it does help keep the regular filter from clogging. I was surprised how much it helps. You do get some weird looks as a guy when you buy three pairs of women’s panty hose, and the looks don’t get any better when you tell the cashier “it’s for dust collection.” Oh, well… it does work!
Thanks for some awesome tips (and bloopers)! Keep up the great work…